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Perhaps a scroll, definitely 3 single coils, and maybe an F hole.


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13 hours ago, ScottR said:

Are you sure this is your second language?

Yes, pretty sure. When I was very small and just learned to talk, Finnish was the language to use with my mother and German the one to be used with dad and his relatives. Mom and dad spoke Swedish with each other since it was their only common language. English came along at school when I was nine, unless you count reading subtexts as a language learning method.

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Whatever helps to practise. I lived on the Mexican border for 6 years and attempted to learn Spanish from books. First a couple of instructional tomes and then libras en Espanol with an English to Spanish dictionary in hand. Naturally I understand written Spanish much better than verbal Spanish. Your English skills are light years beyond my Spanish skills.

SR

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17 hours ago, ScottR said:

Your English skills are light years beyond my Spanish skills.

Thanks for your kind words. Bear in mind though that I had English at school for 12 years or so alongside and after which I've listened to Anglo-American music, watched Anglo-American movies and TV series and for the last couple of decades read and written on a couple of forums like this.

English is hard to avoid here, to that extent that my mom who never had a single lesson of English learned to understand it so well that she could follow a TV series by ear in the next room and come to watch the finale only having to ask which face belongs to whom...

Back to the subject, I don't know if I envy more your skills or the materials and facilities you have.

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I do have access to a fine hardwood store here in town. I usually buy these crazy exotic tops online, but will admit that it is simpler to get deliveries here in the states than on your side of the pond. My facilities though, are a small corner of my garage.

SR

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've been doing a bit of traveling lately, so only a minor amount of time was available to apply to the art of making sawdust. The neck got some more love and is fairly close to final size and shape.

C02424.jpgC02425.jpgC02427.jpgC02429.jpg

Then I had to fix it up a place to live.

C02431.jpgC02433.jpg

Consummated

C02434.jpg

On top of traveling and being super busy at work these days...which has left me far behind in my thread reading, my home computer acts like it wants to die.

Or at least hack up a hair ball.

We'll see how far she'll go.

SR

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3 hours ago, mistermikev said:

looking awesome.  I'm left wondering... at what point does a neck stop being a set neck and start being a neck thru? 

 

 

....approximately 3 inches past where mine stops......

I like the way my long tenon is completely encapsulated by the body woods. There is much more gluing surface than a neck through. It is the strongest connection I can imagine. Total voodoo, but it makes me happy.:)

SR

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54 minutes ago, ScottR said:

....approximately 3 inches past where mine stops......

I like the way my long tenon is completely encapsulated by the body woods. There is much more gluing surface than a neck through. It is the strongest connection I can imagine. Total voodoo, but it makes me happy.:)

SR

I agree that that is an awesome design.  I love it.  all the benefits of a neck thru with a nice twist in that it doesn't show a laminated surface.  Storing that away under 'great ideas'.  I like your voodoo.

for the sake of argument... if it goes 2.9999999 inches past where yours stops... still a set neck?  hehe.  I think it might be a "set neck thru".  breaking down barriers with your wood work... cudos.

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This is probably covered earlier or in another of your threads, @ScottR , but how and when do you calculate your neck angle?  Do you do it solely with drawing, or do you mock up for verification?  Or maybe even just thickness the top to end up with the right result?

I sometimes use all three methods - draw, but then verify with a mock up....and then correct both of those by having to 'adjust' the top ;)

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4 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

This is probably covered earlier or in another of your threads, @ScottR , but how and when do you calculate your neck angle?  Do you do it solely with drawing, or do you mock up for verification?  Or maybe even just thickness the top to end up with the right result?

I sometimes use all three methods - draw, but then verify with a mock up....and then correct both of those by having to 'adjust' the top ;)

I think I kind of adjust as I go.

I start by cutting/planing a roughly 2 degree angle on the bottom side of the tenon. Then once the top is flat and mostly thicknessed and the frets are in the neck and I have the bridge in hand, I set the saddle at their lowest point and measure haw far that is above the base of the bridge....or the surface of the top. Then I measure the distance from the end of the fretboard and the scale length....or bridge position. I place a straight edge on the fretboard and see how much rise I have over that distance. My target is for the A and B string path to come even with the saddles at the lowest setting.  I use that information to calculate how deep to rout the neck pocket which determines the height of the surface of the top in relation to the neck. A little deeper pocket if I need the bridge to sit lower, or a little shallower if I need the bridge to sit a bit higher.

It's all about keeping it in the range of adjustment, as the measurements are going to change slightly during the build. Sanding will lower the top/bridge height, my clear finishes will raise it back up.

SR

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I guess it's technically more neck-through than set nick because the bridge is sitting in the same piece of wood that the tuner holes are. Must be stronger than both set neck and neck-through. Only downside I could see to it would be impossible to unset the neck if needed. That being said, it's a flippin' cool design for a tenon, I'm especially looking forward to seeing this baby carved. 

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On 7/23/2019 at 9:42 AM, ADFinlayson said:

Only downside I could see to it would be impossible to unset the neck if needed.

Yeah, that's an option that no longer exists. Also you have to be able to do all the routing, carving and finishing work on the body with the neck already in place.....just like a neck through.

SR

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2 minutes ago, ScottR said:

Yeah, that's an option that no longer exists. Also you have to be able to do all the routing, carving and finishing work on the body with the neck already in place.....just like a neck through.

SR

That is true, however when I was working on the red semi hollow I finished recently, I found it wasn't any more difficult to carve the top prior to glueing it in place - I just had to be more creative with clamps. Granted neck pickup route is a ball-ache (that's a technical term) which the neck is in, but the same issue occurs on a neckthrough build.

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I have just finished catching up on all the posts I missed whilst out traveling.....and then digging out from the mountain of work that piled up while I was out.

For the record:

Feel free to hijack, derail, or otherwise post any irreverent, off topic, or stream of consciousness comment that strikes you in my threads. I find it vastly entertaining to see where the tangents lead, and occasionally learn something new.:)

-Scott 

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On 7/22/2019 at 9:50 PM, ScottR said:

....approximately 3 inches past where mine stops......

I like the way my long tenon is completely encapsulated by the body woods. There is much more gluing surface than a neck through. It is the strongest connection I can imagine. Total voodoo, but it makes me happy.:)

SR

i think I had previously referred to your neck tenon as "deep set neck" -and had forgot that DTM guitars calls it a "set thru neck" no voodoo Scotty- incase you didnt know-  you are avoiding the "tone trouble spot" zone according to this pro builder: 🙂

http://mcnaughtcustomguitars.com/set-thru-necks/

plus you dont get a potentially ugly ass butt end where the neck/neck lams show thru. I dont always dig that look. 

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I had not heard that explanation before, but will admit I always did like the idea of my bridge screwing into the neck wood.

I first saw this in a web site from a builder I no longer remember...possibly Donald Driskoll, but my link doesn't go to that build any more. I thought it looked like a great idea and it appealed to my desire for really solid construction, so I've used it on every build I've done.

SR

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