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Build #3 - Maestro


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decided to add an F-hole.  semi hollow.  not sure on the body or neck wood.  feel like i default to mahogany.  its really nice to work with from what I've experienced.  I'm aiming to have wenge and purpleheart for the neck laminations so far as well. We'll see how that meshes togetherimage.thumb.png.25ed8ce33c9f8df4fe7aae685f23d390.pngtoo

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22 minutes ago, ZekeB said:

decided to add an F-hole.  semi hollow.  not sure on the body or neck wood.  feel like i default to mahogany.  its really nice to work with from what I've experienced.  I'm aiming to have wenge and purpleheart for the neck laminations so far as well. We'll see how that meshes togetherimage.thumb.png.25ed8ce33c9f8df4fe7aae685f23d390.pngtoo

wow, I really like that offset in your f hole.  that's gonna look sweet.

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On 7/25/2019 at 12:47 AM, ZekeB said:

Lol, actually it wasn't that bad.  I live in Texas and ziricote is sourced just to south of me.  got it from savagewoods.com

yeah the actual cost of the timber isn't insane although it's hard to come by pieces thick enough to carve through my usual channels. It's the cost of shipping it to the UK + the import duty that's the killer. The piece I bought cost £250 by the time it got to my bench.

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  • 3 months later...

And on to build #3!  That pick guard's corners on the last one was a serious pain in the butt so I'm playing around with some ideas that hopefully go with the build a little better.  Noticing this is a very curvy build so I was thinking a "wing" like shaped pickguard out of something that would compliment the ziricote that i could also incorporate into the headstock maybe.  Going to have a solid wenge neck on the next as well.  Just ordered it.

Maybe a flat piece of ebony, with a blonde wood or just one piece altogether.  If I stick with 3 laminated pieces I could layer plane them at slightly different height and round off the edges.  that would feel very organic and natural feel and look.  If I have a solid piece it would allow the ziricote the have more presence.  

This won't have a deep carve at all.  The ziricote I have are pretty thin so its going to just a slight contour.  Thinking minimal inlays if any.  The body is already pretty crazy.

Feedback always welcome :)  

image.png.a7401965db183f4a89ccd33102ffd8a6.png

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Oh those design skills! One only has to admire.

I like the middle one best. It combines the nature of your last build with a more "wingy" feel than the other two.

Why stick with a traditional soundhole? The headstock has that scoopy whaddayacallit which might duplicate well.

Edited by Bizman62
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Ok, couldn't help it.  Sound holes.  I laughed after I was done because the 3rd one looks like a wing bone. I'm really liking the top 2nd and last one.  the 2nd the most.  I think it has a sense of elegance retaining that wing theme.  On top of that, its a fairly simple shape and I think it achieves a lot in terms of theme and movement.  I'm liking the last one a lot as well.  I tried to keep as realistic as possible.  I'm pretty confident with my coping saw but those thin negative areas would make me nervous.  Opinions?  thanks guys

image.png.a790c4cc124593046f347a2dc7b51d86.png

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4 hours ago, ZekeB said:

On to Photoshop!

Is that the tool you use for designing? I'd like a lesson about that! Or rather something I can convert to the free tools like Paint.Net.

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7 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

Is that the tool you use for designing? I'd like a lesson about that! Or rather something I can convert to the free tools like Paint.Net.

I generally use Inkscape for the conceptual designs.  I actually like it better than illustrator just because the vector nodes are easier to control.  After I have the concept I'll start making layers in photoshop and take picture of timber I actually have to play around with it.  Its a lot of busy work but once you have the foundations set you have a lot of flexibility.  Here's an example where I'm at right now:

So I've uploaded the Ziricote picture I took and started to flesh it out with different hardware and binding etc.  From there you can just turn layers on and off to see the different looks.  Its all about the layers!

Gold:

image.thumb.png.8c4343bc04182c405e4acb211ece4f84.png

White theme in the making

image.thumb.png.715237b8e005511f6495284ff2d8ac1d.png

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2 minutes ago, ZekeB said:

I generally use Inkscape for the conceptual designs.  I actually like it better than illustrator just because the vector nodes are easier to control.  After I have the concept I'll start making layers in photoshop and take picture of timber I actually have to play around with it.  Its a lot of busy work but once you have the foundations set you have a lot of flexibility.  Here's an example where I'm at right now:

So I've uploaded the Ziricote picture I took and started to flesh it out with different hardware and binding etc.  From there you can just turn layers on and off to see the different looks.  Its all about the layers!

Gold:

image.thumb.png.8c4343bc04182c405e4acb211ece4f84.png

White theme in the making

image.thumb.png.715237b8e005511f6495284ff2d8ac1d.png

I do almost the sm in photoshop.  It's a dangerous game because I now have some 50+ designs that are all time soaks and I'll never build half of them... but boy is it fun! 

Also, at full scale... using hi-rez photos and hundreds of layers... a project can get very big very fast.  If you have an insight as to how to keep them smaller (other than deletings groups of layers!) I'm all ears.

your design here is really coming together.  looking fwd to seing it realized.

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3 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

I do almost the sm in photoshop.  It's a dangerous game because I now have some 50+ designs that are all time soaks and I'll never build half of them... but boy is it fun! 

Also, at full scale... using hi-rez photos and hundreds of layers... a project can get very big very fast.  If you have an insight as to how to keep them smaller (other than deletings groups of layers!) I'm all ears.

your design here is really coming together.  looking fwd to seing it realized.

You might try to merge your layers together.  If your rasterize (think thats theword) it will make it smaller typical image versus whatever else the other layers are.  I typically will group things together like screws, etc.  Just an idea!

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Just now, ZekeB said:

You might try to merge your layers together.  If your rasterize (think thats theword) it will make it smaller typical image versus whatever else the other layers are.  I typically will group things together like screws, etc.  Just an idea!

right on.  I do try to rasterize as much as possible (is the right word) but unfortunately I need to keep many things as sep layers because later I might want to copy 'just the humbucker route' or move it.  I have a group of 'materials' that is all pics of wood/pearloid/abalone that is often the biggest... but then I don't want to delete it because I might decide to see how rosewood looks here or pearloid looks there.  i guess it just is what it is!  thanks for the thoughts.

 

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On 11/15/2019 at 9:44 PM, ZekeB said:

I really don't know much about Trapeze.

 It took me this long to understand you didn't mean trapeze inlays!

I have a couple of guitars with a Trapeze, one acoustic and one hollowbody. As you know, it's somewhat vintage(ish). By design the break angle to the bridge is often shallower compared to a Tune-o-matic or through the body stringing which means less pressure  and therefore less signal strength from the strings to the body. Is it good or bad, depends on what you're after. Also, the greater the neck break angle is, the higher bridge you can use and the more pressure even a Trapeze can create.

There's been talk about the string length after the bridge affecting tone. I can't remember if that had to do with the overall string length affecting stiffness similarly to the scale length, please someone more savvy chime in with an explanation! Anyhow, there's various lengths in trapezes as well so if there's an issue it can be fixed.

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2 minutes ago, ZekeB said:

Thinking I'm going to go all black hardware on this one.  Going to follow some advice from my last build and let the wood do the talking.  Also adds an opportunity to maybe do an inlay on the fretboard.  Still pondering on that.  If so maybe monochromatic in gold.

as always, nice design.  looking fwd to seeing this come alive.

so three humbuckers... interested in what you plans for electronics are.  lots of coils there... lots of possibilities.  One that immediately comes to mind is the newer strat 6 way lever and simply sending the series link to ground for parallel combos on pos 2/4/6 with six being the optimal 'tele' mode with neck combined with bridge.  just a thought... what are your plans?

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