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David's PRS and Matt's Tele


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Finished the carving, the control cover was poked out easily by pushing the arse end of a 9mm drill bit through the pot holes, then the cocktail sticks pulled out easily with a pair of pliers, the back has had a 60 grit disc and 100 grit hand sanding around the edges, the top has been sanded up to 150

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spend a good couple of hours sanding the body this evening, got the back sanded up to 320 then taped off the maple before grainfilling. I hate the job of masking the edges, but I'm getting better at it. The lower horn cutaway is particularly awkward to tape off.

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I've used Jenkins Jecofil walnut grainfiller (messy stuff) then used hessian fabric to wipe off all the excess to stain the body as well as fill the grain - I'm hoping the slightly darker body will compliment the binding and the blurple.

Will check it tomorrow and decide whether or not it needs another coat though I am planning to brush some sanding sealer on as well, especially around that lower horn and neck pocket to make sure no stain from the maple bleeds into the mahog as I neck staining the neck heel will be awkward.

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spent a 5 or so hours on this one today, pretty much all sanding. Annoying found a few scratches I missed on that back so got them sorted. Got the top sanded up to 240, damped it down to raise the grain then sanded up to 320, finished off the neck carve and followed the same sanding process. I've decided I'm going to stain the neck and body separately, seal them both and then glue the neck. I'm just waiting for some more angelus dyes to arrive in the post. If if takes too long, I'll crack on with the tele, or maybe start on wet sanding the other two, damn I've got too many projects.

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14 minutes ago, mistermikev said:

looking very nice brother.  that pinstripe on the fretboard is on my 'must try' list thanks to you.

thanks Mike, it's pretty easy to do, it's just a 0.5mm maple veneer sheet that I cut a couple of strips off and long with fretboard offcuts to make the actual binding and glued it all up at once. Cheap way to do binding.

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Just now, ADFinlayson said:

thanks Mike, it's pretty easy to do, it's just a 0.5mm maple veneer sheet that I cut a couple of strips off and long with fretboard offcuts to make the actual binding and glued it all up at once. Cheap way to do binding.

right on.  I figured as much.  I am going to be doing a fretless bass here in a min so... will likely do that for the binding as well as do some veneer fret markers.  s/b some fun.  anywho, guitar is looking great with the back carve and all.  what r u doing for color?  is this one purple too?

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2 hours ago, mistermikev said:

right on.  I figured as much.  I am going to be doing a fretless bass here in a min so... will likely do that for the binding as well as do some veneer fret markers.  s/b some fun.  anywho, guitar is looking great with the back carve and all.  what r u doing for color?  is this one purple too?

he wants blue with some purple in it, I haven't got any blue angelus so I'm waiting on that. I did try a tester with Crimson's royal blue but their stains aren't up to much.

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9 hours ago, ADFinlayson said:

he wants blue with some purple in it, I haven't got any blue angelus so I'm waiting on that. I did try a tester with Crimson's royal blue but their stains aren't up to much.

right on.  that should be lovely.  looking fwd to seeing it. 

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The grain fill-stain-sanding work you did on the back paid off in spades. (whatever that means). The color went super rich and the cover now blends perfectly. That deserves a pat on the back.....if you can pull it off without dislocating a shoulder.

SR

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I'd add to that, that ragging off excess grain filler with a coarse sacking such as jute/burlap/hessian makes a huge difference in the final result. It's coarse enough to drag off excess whilst burnishing the filler into the pores. Being easy to acquire and replace, it's a sight better than using expensive corn polissoirs/pan scrubbers.

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8 hours ago, ScottR said:

The grain fill-stain-sanding work you did on the back paid off in spades. (whatever that means). The color went super rich and the cover now blends perfectly. 

We’ve got another “sublime back” scenario happening. I agree with everything @ScottR said.

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I like it. The Aria Pro II PE-R80 I mentioned has a carve which is too deep for my taste. Difficult to see in this photo, however you can imagine the depth of carve since it's symmetrical. Yours is subtle and sweet. I like it.

You could almost imagine this as being one of @ScottR's builds....

DSCN8857.jpg

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On 5/2/2020 at 6:49 PM, Prostheta said:

I'd add to that, that ragging off excess grain filler with a coarse sacking such as jute/burlap/hessian makes a huge difference in the final result. It's coarse enough to drag off excess whilst burnishing the filler into the pores. Being easy to acquire and replace, it's a sight better than using expensive corn polissoirs/pan scrubbers.

I hadn't considered the coarseness of hessian, just figured it was good to use to pickup the excess because of the open weave. But the coarseness of the hessian did cause the odd streak so once I got all the excess off with it, I did also give the back a firm wipe down with paper towel, just to make sure the staining effect was consistent and streak free. 

That Aria is a really nice looking axe, I've not seen those before but it looks right up my street. 

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On 5/3/2020 at 4:11 AM, Prostheta said:

I like it. The Aria Pro II PE-R80 I mentioned has a carve which is too deep for my taste. Difficult to see in this photo, however you can imagine the depth of carve since it's symmetrical. Yours is subtle and sweet. I like it.

You could almost imagine this as being one of @ScottR's builds....

DSCN8857.jpg

I have not seen one of these before either. There are definitely some lines that echo mine....or vise versa, since I imagine this came first. Great minds and all that.:)

SR

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Well, if it inspires your next work Scott don't let me stop you 😉 I might be on semi-permanent hold for all significant woodworking ventures soon, so I'll live vicariously through what I tempt you to build.....! haha

The exact type (or weave) of material used to wipe back grain filler isn't that important really. Coarse material gives it a better bite and ability to hold onto excess rather than smearing it. Once excess is gone, I'm sure that a buffing pass with a finer cloth is wise like you say. This is of course entirely dependent on whether you're wanting to maintain colouration on the surface from the filler or sand it back with fine grits.

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I've spent lots of hours on sanding/staining over the last few days. stained it black to darken up the colour and found a load of gouge marks that I managed to miss so I had to tidy all that up before I could get the colour on. Looking great though, need to get it sealed and glued up, then I'll get the bridge fitted - Staining the neck and body prior to glue up has up set my normal routine a bit as I don't really like drilling holes after stain/finish but I didn't want to get glue all over the stained neck, or stain all over neck pocket. Happy with the current status though.

I've done a YT video on my staining/binding process

And some pics

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The T-shirt material looks familiar, haven't you been wearing that on some earlier video?

Also, you seem to huff and puff quite a lot while sanding. Does that affect the amount of coughing and sneezing, not to mention colouration of your sputum?

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On 5/7/2020 at 5:14 PM, Bizman62 said:

The T-shirt material looks familiar, haven't you been wearing that on some earlier video?

Also, you seem to huff and puff quite a lot while sanding. Does that affect the amount of coughing and sneezing, not to mention colouration of your sputum?

You do make some strange observations, it is an old Tshirt of mine so it could well have appeared in a previous video. The mic is about 6" away from my face so it's bound to pic up some breathing, maybe I'll add a noise gate in future. Haven't noticed any black snot.

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