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Crusader

Some wiring diagrams

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Recent topics got me thinking I could post my wiring diagrams, and I also realised I've never scanned them before

I did a ton of experimenting in the 90's and 00's and came to these conclusions. There are other sounds like Parallel and Neck+Middle which are good but you've got to draw the line somewhere, its just too confusing

I have diagrams of the Rotary switches somewhere but I can't find them right now

OOP means Out Of Phase

SC means  Single Coil

No it doesn't it means Split Coil

 

Les Paul Copy 1

45281804_2018_05.03LPC1wiring.thumb.jpg.e973e08ad694fe5ebc144f1006c16ebe.jpg

Les Paul Copy 3

955778318_2018_04.25LPC3wiring.thumb.jpg.9e45d7538562884ad7f6a85ca07f587b.jpg

 

There is a Les Paul Copy 2 I'm going to be 60 next year but it isn't finished yet

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Interesting wiring schemes you've come up with. Some observations, if I may, for other people who may want to try them out in their own builds:

  1. The combinations listed don't include the pickup options that are common between the variations. For example, in the first diagram with all mini toggles in the 'normal' position the column shows the available options on the 3-way toggle as Bridge/Bridge + Neck/Neck. The second option listed (neck phase reversal switch engaged) only indicates Bridge + Neck Out of Phase, but there will still be the standard Bridge and Neck options on the 3-way toggle as well.
  2. There are grounds missing on the tone and neck volume pots in the first diagram.
  3. There's a ground missing on the phase reverse switch in diagram 2 (bottom-right terminal on mini toggle).
  4. The ground connection from the output jack in the second diagram also needs to be made to one of the pot cases.
  5. The listed capacitor codes on diagram 2 aren't quite right. '2223' is shown, but I suspect it should be '223', aka 22nF.
  6. Bridge grounds are not shown on either diagram but are implied.
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right on brother.  I don't really use others' diagrams much as I tend to just draw something new for each project but I am guessing others will find this very useful, so a nice contribution to the community.

Your drawings a fairly neat, so not a criticism at all... but you might consider going and getting diy layout creator.  on the one hand it's never backwards compat so you have to make sure you save a version in pdf... on the other it is a great tool for organizing your diagrams because it gives you a chance to re-organize your wires after you've laid them out.  just a thought. 

rock on.

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20 hours ago, curtisa said:

Interesting wiring schemes you've come up with..........

Thank you yes right you are that the grounding wires are not shown. I think I left them out so its easier to read, these are my personal diagrams. And I couldn't decide how to show the options, in hindsight it would be better to show the ones that are doubled-up

 

18 hours ago, mistermikev said:

right on brother.  I don't really use others' diagrams.........

I don't either, I get too lost unless I've drawn them. Thanks for the suggestions

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Some other things I thought I'd comment on

After a lot of testing I thought Neck + Middle sounds similar to Neck + Bridge (on that guitar at least) and being a Les Paul I thought it best to keep traditional LP sounds

So not having Neck+Middle gave me the idea of having a switch that swaps the Neck for the Middle. And having the Volume for the middle where the Bridge Tone would be is an idea I got from a Les Paul Axcess. I originally just had the Neck Volume for the Middle as well (which keeps it more simple)

In the future I probably won't do the Peter Green out of phase sound but what I like about that is when its out of phase and in single coil, it gives you the coil closest to the fingerboard. So Ironically a simple way to achieve that is to turn the pickup around like Peter's LP (errr now in hands of Metalica guy, what's his name?)

RIP Gary

Oh yeah about the number on the caps 2233, its meant to be 223J The J is just a manufacturer's code and it looks like a 3 (through my eyes)

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2 hours ago, Crusader said:

its meant to be 223J The J is just a manufacturer's code

The J refers to the tolerance of the capacitor's value, in this case +/- 5% of the marked capacitance.

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