Jump to content

New semi-hollow electric project.


Recommended Posts

Thanks Jay! I will try to post more pics of that neck jig in the next couple weeks. I am getting pretty busy in the shop so I will be using it again very soon. I'll photograph some more of it then and post it for you.

As far as tips go definitely use brass inserts and machine screws for the hold down screws. Use 3/4 ply for the base. And make sure you use something like cork or rubber underneath the aluminum hold downs so that it doesn't mar the wood. I have a new idea for this jig that will allow for adjustments in the neck angle and overall height of the body too. That will be another prototype coming in the next couple months.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 115
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...

Check out the next batch of 5 of these semi-hollows: #017-#021 These will be pretty cool to hear the differences in a few of the same design guitars. I don't often get to compare this many at once. #021 will be the most experimental as the woods are totally different than most semi-hollow guitars. I have been cranking and have't taken too many more since this thread covers everything I have done already, but let me know if you want anything else detailed.

jay5, I will be doing a neck route in the next week. I will post more pictures and a parts list for the neck jig.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Myka, thanks in advance for the neck jig info!

:DB):D That wood is awesome!1 The picks of the headstocks are amazing! Have you kept the same dimensions from the origional?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wow. that's all i have to say right now, just...wow. looks awesome. i think the body dimensions could have been a little more standard and a bit more refined(the top shoulder, on the bass side, a little straighter than the slant you have in for instance), but...with the steps away from tradition it looks great. i dont know if you ever thought about it, but if you plane the ebony thin enough, you can get a really cool pickup cover without any different tonal responses, to add to the purely natural look. you said no plastic on the guitar, i'd have gone the whole 9 yards.

i really like the f hole you've got, and the shape is cool, a lot less traditional than i thought it was gonna look when i first saw the body taking shape, but the whole thing really looks great. bet she sounds awesome too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Myka, is that a chinnese dragon on the headstock for #21, I can clearly see the eyes, nose and mouth with teeth... a chinnese dragon inlay will look just right on the finger board of that one, it just told me that...

That is an awesome idea. I think I may go with it. I was trying to think of something that would go with the wicked nature of that veneer. The Chinese dragon is perfect. Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

OK, I know I have promised a more detailed account of the neck pocket jig that I made. I have a few guitars getting to that point very soon and I will photgraph it more in use and come up with a parts list, etc.

To make up for the wait I have another new jig I just made today for rough carving the neck shape. This thing works very well and the design is very simple. It involves the concept of an overhead router and a round over bit with a bearing.

Here is the overhead router base made of plywood. If you have a table saw and screws you can make this very easily:

01.jpg

02.jpg

Here is the cutter head:

03.jpg

Here it is up against the neck to see how it aligns:

04.jpg

Here is the jig that clamps the neck in place:

05.jpg

Notice that the hold-downs are angled plywood blocks with sandpaper on the face that the neck sets against to hold it better. They also swivel so that the headstock angle can be a variable. The fingerboard is set level with the hold-down jig so the cutter comes right the edge of the fretboard.

To use this you have to cut the neck taper on a bandsaw or whatever since the bearing rides along the back of the neck. This can be a rough cut but the smoother you make it the smoother the neck will be and the less work you have to do. I designed this to rough out the necks but it seems to work very nicely and the carve is very close to what I would do by hand. This tool is a real time saver.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

True, the Safe-T-Planer is a great too for exactly that type of thing. Thanks for the idea.

One thing I forgot to mention is to take multiple passes with this jig. The half round bit I used was 1" radius and you don't want to take off more than 1/8" each pass. If you use the same type of router base you can start of with the bit raised up so the first cut is minimal. Slowly work your way up to full cutting depth. Don't try to take the whole amount on the first pass, that would be asking for trouble and probably cause major tearout anyway. Just be careful, go slow, and keep your fingers out of the way. Routers are powerful tools. We all need our fingers for playing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...