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Les Paul in progress...


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The guitar will be sunbursted - amber, with a broad red fade, then a tighter brown nearer the binding. This pic shows my practice burst. I know part of it's carved away, but this is most representative of the colours...

39_pickupplanemarked.jpg

Once the inlays had been sanded flush, and any imperfections filled, it was time to re-radius and level the board. I used my 12" radius block, and clamp down two rails to avoid the block tipping and creating a tighter radius. I sanded the board up through the grits from 120 to 800, then buffed it with a vinyl block to get a nice shine.

53_levellingboard.jpg

The board needs to be fretted now. I do my fretting with the fretboard separate from the neck. I attach the board to a slab of counter top using doublesided tape, and fret it using the tools shown below; a DIY tang nipper, a needlefile and a stick.

54_frettingtools.jpg

First I cut the fret to length and remove the ends of the tang with the nippers. I made the nippers myself using sheet metal nibblers, and they need to be followed up with a little file work to get the ends totally clean.

55_trimmedfret.jpg

Then, I sit the maple stick on one end of the fret, and clout it with a hammer. The maple has a groove in the end caused by it's contact with the fret, so it stays registered on the fret. If you use a softer wood than maple you may experience marking of the board when the groove gets too deep and the surrounding wood can contact the fretboard. One good solid tap snugs the fretend down:

56_oneenddownfret.jpg

Then the other end:

57_bothendsdownfret.jpg

Finally, I knock down the middle, then 'walk' along the length of the fret giving sharp taps until I'm satisfied the fret is fully seated. In this pick you can see what looks like a gap under the fret - this is actually a refection on my nice glossy board - the fret is prefectly bedded down.

58_pressedfret.jpg

I find this method very controllable and quick, and the final result is very even, with hardly any levelling needed. As you may imagine, I don't subscribe to the belief that expensive specialist tools are required to do a top notch fretjob.

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DIY fret-tang notcher.... is there info on the net about how to make these ? I assume the "table" needs a groove shaped like half a fret-crown.

I make them the same way the original was made - grind a channel into the bearing surface of a sheet metal nibbler. This piece is case hardened, so you'll need some serious firepower to grind it - you'll take the teeth off a file before you mark it!

I used a diamond burr, easy for me since my Mum & Dad are both dentists. I know users on the MIMF have preformed the same op', but I don't recall what they used. I've heard mixed reviews on the effectiveness of the Stew Mac version - some say it performs like mine and needs some minor cleanup after clipping, others say it trims perfectly on it's own. If you get one that does the latter it's probably worth the extra cash - I only baulked at the price after UK shipping was included.

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Once all the frets were in, I wicked a spot of CA under the fret ends. I brought the fret ends down to within 0.5mm of the binding using the disk sander. This isn't hard, and the direction of the wheel removes any chance of pulling at the fret, but you do have to be careful not to touch the binding against the wheel, that could really spoil your day.

Once the bulk had been removed, I tidy up the ends with a special file - it was a cheap B&Q file until I ground the edges smooth and chopped off the tang. I bevelled the ends with the file, then smoothed them to 800 grit, first using a hard block to maintain the shape, then a soft block to relieve the sharp edges until everything's nice and smooth.

That's the fretboard pretty much finished, barring the levelling and dressing once the guitar is assembled and finished.

58_neckandbody.jpg

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I say again - lovely work, and very helpful photography - hope it isn't slowing you down too much! (but don't stop taking them!).

I didn't actually realise until the other day that you're in the UK.

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I say again - lovely work, and very helpful photography - hope it isn't slowing you down too much! (but don't stop taking them!).

I didn't actually realise until the other day that you're in the UK.

It doesn't slow me too much, though it can be a bit of a pain...

On a full day or halfday of building it's a nice change of pace from the dusty physical work, but if I'm trying to cram a job into the couple of hours between work and sleep I tend to skip the pics... I wish I'd taken more during the carving, but I got caught up in it and didn't want to interrupt.

Where abouts in the UK are you? I'm in Barnet, North London.

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Where abouts in the UK are you? I'm in Barnet, North London.

I can imagine that - I'm just doinglittle bits here and there, and I've usually finsihed by the time I remember the camera - and then the rechargeables are flat!

I'm in Port talbot on teh south Wales coast - but lived in Harlesden for a for years whenI worked up there as a computer journo. had friends in Barnet though!

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Barnet.... home of the bees!

It's like a little breakaway UK guitar builders sect! Maybe we should stage a luthier coup! :D

Great work Setch it's really coming along very nicely, a proper Les Paul is an audatious project indeed, have you not been tempted to change anything in the orignal LP formula? (not that it needs it, 'cept maybe the weight!) I'd have been tempted to "tweak" things a bit, but then i'm like that.

Looking forward to seeing more progress

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41_carvinginprogress.jpg

Now we know where Setch draws his magical power from...look closely in the upper right sector of the pic :D

Most excellent work dude, that's a tutorial if I've ever seen one. Very inspirational and informative.

so long

ace

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Look also to the left - that yellow object is the arse-end of a yellow parrot shaped bottleopener. They're made by Livinggear in Australia, and IMO it's the best bottleopener ever - It looks very cool, but it also works like a proper bottle opener - no slipping off the top, or bending the crown without opening.... If you see one, buy it! Makes it much easier to build up a pile of bottle tops without any injuries.

Parrot Bottle openers

Uh.. anyway...guitars :D

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Dude you should finish it with a carriburst finish and enter this contest

http:/www.projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=3422&hl=carriburst+contest]Carriburst contest

B)

I'm afraid I'm a bit of a traditionalist, this is getting a regular Gibson-style burst. Besides, I missed the deadline, and I doubt the buyer I have in mind for this one would go for a Carrieburst...

I'm just routing the pickups, expect an update within the hour :D

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First step towards the p'up routing is making the template. First I rough it out with the jigsaw.

59_roughtemplate.jpg

Once it's roughed, I attach 4 bits of scrap with straight edges. These are doublesided taped on, and carefully lined up with the paper on the template.

60_templatetemplate.jpg

This goes over to the router table, where I clean up using a template follower bit. I repeat this for the ears of the template. Here's the result:

61_finshedtemplate.jpg

First I route the bridge pickup, attaching it to the body with plenty of doublesided tape and a clamp at the neck end of the body. I make 200% sure that the template can't wobble or shift during the routing then I rip into it :D

62_bridgepuprouted.jpg

Then I fit the neck, using tiny paper shims to prevent *any* shifting in the pocket. It doens't take much if you did a good job routing the pocket. Once the neck is nicely seated and can't move, I clamp the pickup template to it, and tape it at the opposite end, using a piece of vinyl flooring with tape on both sides to take up the gap between the template and body. This has just the right amount of give to hold the template solid but conform to the top contours to grip better.

63_neckpuptemplate.jpg

With the template solidly fixed I route the neck pickup. Here's comleted job - nice and clean, and the tenon has been trimmed too. To route the deeper ears I slip an insert into the route, and run the bearing against the insert and the sides of the route until the ears are at full depth. There's a good pic of this kind of insert at Derek's website.

64_pupsrouted.jpg

65_pupsroutedcloseup.jpg

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is the headstock unthicknessed there, is it crooked? Maybe an illusion but the whole thing seems to tilt towards the treble....regardless, even pictures of some of your rigs and such have thus far inspired new ideas for me to expand on....beautiful work

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is the headstock unthicknessed there, is it crooked? Maybe an illusion but the whole thing seems to tilt towards the treble....regardless, even pictures of some of your rigs and such have thus far inspired new ideas for me to expand on....beautiful work

I saw that too - freaked me out. I've got no idea why it looks like that, since the head and body are both on the same plane. I think it's either an illusion caused by the angles of the table it's sitting on, or maybe be the fretboard was popping up (since it's only resting on) on the bass side.

When I saw the pic I nearly dropped a load i my pants - had to run and check I hadn't somehow screwed the pooch and not noticed till now!

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