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Entry for February 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - ENTER HERE!

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  2. While I've also not done it for the same reasons as @mistermikev , I have seen a number of examples and yes, it works well. Use a decent quality epoxy, use proper resin-designed colour additives, ensure the application is bubble free and over filled and do some trials before doing on the guitar - and, most important of all, post pictures of the results!
  3. Agreed, however the wood itself acts as both an insulator and a cooler block. And the cavity beneath also has an insulating space of air between the heater and the electronics. Wood and air don't conduct heat well, so it's hard to believe that the inside of the control cavity could have gotten hot enough to damage the electronics. BTW that video is OLD! Even AMD has had a similar overheating protection for the last decade or more so fear not, you fellow computer users, your CPU won't fry if the cooler block gets loose.
  4. The parts, woods and materials should play a minor role in the pricing unless you're using real gold hardware with diamond inlays. If yours is of similar quality to a guitar built in a factory in America, just count the hours/days/months you've actually spent making it. Don't compare to stock models, compare to Custom Shop versions as the stock models have been made on an assembly line. Also add to the price the fine tuning and adjusting job usually made by the shop selling the guitar. If you can build one guitar a month, an average month's pay plus taxes plus insurances plus 10% for you to be able to have a "paid" month's holiday plus 1/36 of the value of your machinery is what you should charge above the materials. Remember, getting the woods and the parts belongs is part of the job instead of being your hobby! So yes, some $3000 is on the cheaper side.
  5. Now that you got it there, just look at the edge of the plate and imagine what it would look like recessed flush with the body... Regarding too shallow holes, I had that issue. The jack worked perfectly well until I fastened it, after that the plug wouldn't go all the way in. And at disassembly the tip prong was bent. Apparently the tip went through the smaller hole at the bottom with the wiring.
  6. A step drill could work if the subsequent steps match the diameters of the original hole and the washer. It can also be run backwards if the wood is brittle.
  7. Forstner bit, step drill in Forstner point hole to 10mm then either step drill from rear or brad point from front. A custom piloted spot facer would be nice. I wonder if I can get one....
  8. That would only be true if the truss rod was immobilised at both ends, which inside a guitar neck it isn't. The only end of the trussrod that cannot flex is the part where it sits over or near the mass of the body, where it is anchored and prevented from moving by the combined density of the neck, heel and/or neck joint. The consequence of tightening the truss rod nut is to flex where it can, which means the headstock-end is forced to bend backwards, curving the whole unsupported length of the neck in response. The middle of the neck does not and cannot 'bow' (unless it is broken, in which case a truss rod isn't going to help no matter how you adjust it ). I suspect you're not taking into account the shape of a neck that has relief dialed into it. A neck with relief isn't a straight line with a 'sag' in the middle; it's a tangential arc rising from plane of the body, the strings forming a straight line from the bridge to the apex of the arc where it meets the nut. Increasing the relief (making the arc radius smaller) makes the gap between the vibrating portion of the string and the fret tops bigger over more of its length. If the gap gets bigger then naturally you can lower the nut height. Imagine a neck where there's so much relief it makes a full 90 degree bend. In that instance nut height can be zero, as there's no chance of the string vibrating against any fret in the open position.
  9. my electrified fender acoustic has no noise issues. and its a similar unit. if the chinese stuff is junk, buy the real mccoy.
  10. i tested parrafin the other day. not too bad. it was the body of the leftover parts guitar - 1/2" ply, minwax polyshades stain, poly clearcoat, sanded to 400, poured hot candle wax on, smeared it around, rubbed it off. a nice satin finish. nice, but not nice enough for "The Rose". so i went with turtle again, the beeswax is still on that slow boat from china. i really need to get my camera going. the red guitar and x-4 are by and large done, and i've started on the rose, and the stained wood piezo. is it just me or is finding an appropriate strap for a build just plain difficult?
  11. I was proud of myself, but I’m kinda slow, lol
  12. how do you determine the value of a build? i've added up the cost of the parts i ended up using in my red guitar build. i've also looked online for similar guitars to get an idea of its value. while i can find guitars with similar specs, i can't find any with a similar "look" (level of finish, detail, small features, bling, etc). i'm trying to figure out how much it would cost to buy / have built something like the red guitar. My parts cost is about $561 at the moment, not including supplies like sandpaper, stain, lacquer, wire, and solder. I realize a finish can add $100 or more to the cost of a build - but i didn't keep track of how much i used. Guitars with the same basic features seem to be in the $750 to $1000 range, but don't have the woods or bling.
  13. I would probably make a little jig with a dowel the size of the tuner holes to align the holes correctly on the drill press.
  14. yeah, EMGs are sweet, aren't they? i've had one in my ltd m2 since 1995 or so. just built an all mahogany superstrat shreader with one in it too.
  15. wire just the bridge pickup, the battery, and the jack together. that will test the bridge pickup. do the same for the neck. if the pickups are ok, you fried the circuit board. if the pickups are dead, you may have fried everything. i have 2 guitars with emg 81x's hotwired straight to the jack with no controls whatsoever. let me know if you need a wiring diagram or explanation. and of course, try a new battery!
  16. heat hot enough to melt lacquer can fry chips. why do you think they put those massive heat sinks on PC processors? take it off, the chip shoots to 250 degrees F in about 20 seconds and fries.
  17. I decided to inset the washer and nut instead of shaving off 1/16” off the face. But, cutting a larger hole into tuner holes is nearly impossible unless you have some kind of special ledge cutting bit? Or some trick I don’t know about but that you will tell me about now that I’ve already done this? Tell me how you would do it, then I’ll post the trick I came up with. BYW- The Dogfishhead Hazy Ripple is sublime, and I’m no Dead fan.
  18. and when you tighten the truss rod on a neck, it bows mostly in the middle, and tends to stay flat at the ends. as i recall, the peak of a half node is half the amplitude of an open node. so an open low e vibrates back and forth at the 12 fret by say +/-3mm. and at the half nodes (6 and 18th frets) at 1.5mm, and the quarter nodes (3rd, 9th, 15th, and 21st frets) at 0.75mm. so its most likely the quarter nodes or perhaps the eighth nodes where a string will buzz near the nut. so on an open string, you'll buzz at the 3rd fret (quarter node) or the "one.and one half fret" (eighth node - affecting 1st or second fret), where the truss rod has little effect. but proof is in the pudding. i';ll test it and post my results.
  19. not so sure about that. i'm pretty sure that no amount of relief will let me move the nut on the red guitar any lower. but i'm willing to test it. i suspect the nut grooves are already slightly below the fret plane. let me check right quick. nope, not yet. frets looks to be 0.5mm units, and the 6th string groove is at about 1.2mm at the moment. that's actually the next thing scheduled for the x-4: lower the zero fret to the same height as the other frets. right now the action (effort) on the x-4 is not bad at all, but i think i can get the action (distance) down a couple of mil. i'll try relief and lowering the nut on the red guitar. its all setup for it with its shim-able nut setup. don't even have to remove the strings. "we shall bring science to bear, and by god we'll get some answers!" - somebody, somewhere, at some time must have said this - sherlock holmes perhaps? <g>.. at the moment i'm still bogged down helping my buddy get his truck going, so it may be a couple of days til i get a chance to test it. but we determined today that it has a fried brain box. so tomorrow we go to the junkyard, and hopefully that project will be dealt with by tomorrow night,
  20. i was thinking you have a pencil or light dowel to push the string to the fret, and push it with the scale to get a force reading. but you don't need a scale to tell the difference between the force required at the 1st fret vs the 24th fret. just checking the red guitar - which is now setup about as low as possible (low EFFORT, not DISTANCE) - the 1st fret still seems to be almost twice the effort of the 24th fret. and you don't need a scale to feel the difference at the 1st fret of a 0.1mm shim (aluminum can) under the nut. its WAY noticeable.
  21. coke scales typically go up to 7 g's max, with 0.01 g accuracy, and are good enough for scientific use, such as precise mixing of small amounts of Kena wood dye. a typical pot scale goes up to about 200 grams or so, with an accuracy of 0.2 grams, and is accurate enough for balancing race engine components. . a typical kitchen or postal scale will go up to a few pounds, with an accuracy of a couple of ounces, and is adequate for weighing things like guitars and growing kittens. a typical meat scale found at the butchers counter in the grocery or deli goes up to perhaps 20 pounds with an accuracy of 0.1 oz or better and can be used for most tasks - but cost a LOT of money compared to other types. as a scientist and engineer, i often need to know how much stuff weighs, so i know what kinds of scales are capable of what.
  22. i assume the body and neck are one big piece of glued together wood now, eh? if you swap the hardware to another neck and body and it doesn't buzz, i'm not sure how you would "debug" this type of problem with a set or thru neck design. with a bolt on, you could divide and conquer by testing the body and neck separately, then setting the questionable part aside, making a replacement, and then completing the build with a neck, body, nut, bridge, and tailpece that had all been tested and proven to be ok. from building my chevelle (71 malibu, 489 CID 454 truck block, 688 HP on pump gas, no turbo, no nitrous, no blower) i came up with a couple of sayings that apply here: "rome was not built in a day" "sometimes you gotta break a few eggs to make a REAL mayonnaise". in other words, big complex projects take time, and sometimes you have to go to unusual lengths to get good results. bight the bullit, put the HW on another guitar, and right away you'll know who's to blame. then you can toss the offending unit in the bin and get on with life. sure hope its not the one piece neck and body - for your sake. and the sake of all that beautiful wood that would be wasted. do tell us what you discover. we'll all be praying for you that its hardware and not the neck/body.
  23. yes, theoretically, it IS possible that you stumbled on a resonant frequency of the guitar. or to be more precise, you just happened to build a guitar with a resonant frequency close to low E. try putting a big old C clamp on the headstock (with bits of wood to protect the headstock - of course). . this should change the mass and center of mass of the guitar enough to change the natural resonance of the guitar at least a little. it may have an effect. similar to those metal clamps you put on an acoustic headstock (the one i purchased for testing didn't seem to do anything for either my red guitar or my fender 6 string acoustic - but neither has resonance issues). you know tesla almost shook his NYC apartment building to the ground with a simple vibration machine by running it at the resonant speed of the steel I beam frame of the building? that's also how his "free power" works. its takes advantage of the resonant frequency of the ionosphere (~ 8 Hz ) for long range wireless power transmission. and its not really "free". somebody has to build and operate the power station and the transmitter. its "free" cause there's no way to prevent anyone from building a receiver and getting "free" energy, sort of like stealing satellite TV back in the day with a 12 foot diameter radio shack dish. that's why his investors backed out. they couldn't come up with a viable business model for the technology. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ otoh, it buzzes across almost 2 octaves - which would probably NOT be resonance. i'd try replacing the nut, bridge, and tailpiece one at a time. it may be something like a broken or loose spring clip on an intonation screw, a mis-shaped nut or saddle groove, etc, etc. even better, put the nut, bridge, and tailpice on another guitar. if it buzzes, its the hardware. if it doesn't, its the neck and body you built.
  24. Success! Thanks again for all the tips and advice. I know these are baby steps to you guys, but to me they’re all firsts!
  25. was thinking you were going to say something really light. once you've ruled out all the things that make sense... just have to start trying things that don't make sense!
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