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I agree with @Andyjr1515! SR

Thanks, there not much more about the jig in this thread. I can take a few pictures, but like said I didn't plan much ahead, so not everything is how I would make them if I was to build a second one. I think it could be simplified here and there without sacrificing anything.

That man knows what he's talking about.

For the last 20+ years I've been a member of another, most American forum. Our Finnish community has been holding (semi-)annual meetings and of course it involves posting pictures of the event or it doesn't happen. Sauna... Need I say more?

I would not recommend taping over a colour coat, I have pulled paint off before doing that, the colour is always very delicate - it's not the end of the world if it's a solid colour because you can touch it up but if it's a cherry shader etc, you are never hiding that without stripping it all and doing it again. I tend to tape off the edge of the top if that is going to be natural, spray the colour coat on the back/side then pull the tape and tidy up edges before spraying clear. There is a bit of a ridge to begin with but if you spray a couple of coats, do some levelling and spray a couple more, the ridge should disappear.

I had seen youtube videos of guitars being painted with a jig like that, and figured that that is very handy indeed, you built one (which looks better and is more compact!)! Looks great, will need to read the rest of the thread to see if you've posted more info, but if not, please do

I have seen stuff done in Photoshop that has caused permanent damage to my eyes

Wow!

Thanks guys! It sure is! Thanks man, that's exactly what I was going for. I'm glad you like it. SR

Photoshopping is a good way to test destructive ideas without actually destroying anything. I asked about the jack since it was in the cut area in a previous mockup.

There's always that risk. There's several sorts and qualities of tapes, though. A low tack tape might be safer for the fresh paint. Then again, using a brush to apply clearcoat on the rim of the top is fool proof.

Oh I see, that makes sense. Is there no risk of pulling off the paint by masking the black portion? Thanks for the diagram, wonderful illustration.

I will be honest here and say that part of the thought behind the design, was born from an indecision regarding what to do with the bottom half of the guitar. So I thought “what if I just chop off that section”? The original thought was to use a panel, but whilst thinking of a material and colour scheme that complements and contrasts with the rest of the instrument. That has proved to be a bit of a head scratcher. This particular revision has a somewhat iconic look to me, because of its ‘uniqueness’ (a subjective metric I know). But I fear that the overall look of it is a bit like marmite for many people…you either love it or you hate it! I may spend a bit more time photoshopping and seeing what refinements I can come up with. Failing that I will just continue with the original shape.

Highly subjective. If you like it, it is good. Whether I do or don't is a moot point unless you try to sell it to me Honestly I kinda like it though! But in my thinking the shape of a guitar has other qualities than just the looks. Qualities that either make it or brake it. What is the intended purpose? In an electric guitar the body is there to support all the hardware and to provide the player an ergonomic user interface. Without any thought on ergonomics a square block will do for the body (of course if you are Bo Diddley it will do in any case). Scale length defines the minimum length and that's about it. Add a jack and maybe a knob or two. Ergonomics of course highly depends on the intended use and playing style. If the instrument is only played on stage in standing position, you need to place the controls accordingly, but the overall shape can be virtually anything. Think about Prince's guitars or think about the map of Finland (about the only country that makes a semi-decent guitar shape, btw). As I see it, the purpose of those shapes is to make a statement. They are not necessarily shapes that everyone likes or they are not the most ergonomic shapes. But they have a purpose. If you play classical music sitting on a chair the requirements are totally different. If so, a so called "ergonomic guitar" design may be a good choice. They can be very nice to play, but not everybody thinks the ergonomics driven design is visually pleasing. Personally I spend a lot of time tweaking the curves of my initial designs. In the end I always end up with more or less traditional shapes, driven by the intended purpose and the most important question: Does it look like you can convincingly play dirty rock'n'roll with it? That is my design driver and it automatically excludes too modern approaches and all the otherwise intriguing shapes. I know I lean towards clean simplicity on my designs but I try to keep some street credibility in them too. My 2 euro cents.

Haven’t drawn it in yet

Hi and welcome! I'm by no means an electrician but as I did a search for both systems it appears that they both use up to five conductors including the shield. Thus "all" you need to do is to match the conductors... An adapter would be the easiest way but there don't seem to be ready made ones although the parts look very standard. Maybe if you ask GFS for one? Another option is to get a replacement cable with the plug and right amount of conductors installed. The 4 conductor version seems to be in stock: https://www.guitarfetish.com/Kwikplug-Replacement-4-Conductor-Cable-145-_p_21890.html . Getting a ready soldered harness would be the easiest way but they seem to be out of stock. But maybe available somewhere else? And as said the connectors are standard so if you're good at soldering tiny things making a pair of adapters wouldn't require any rocket scientist skills.

Interesting indeed, but where's the jack?

Nothing wrong with that. The main idea in my previous post was just that. The masking and coating the top only was to try to smoothen the ridge of the black and deal with a potential step. But there's easier ways, you can simply brush some clear on the rim of the top and then level the entire side. Let me draw it:

I was actually just going to go in and clear coat the whole thing with a few coats of 2k. Is that wrong?

Hey guys, I’m new at this so please be patient. I have a 2010 Gibson Studio LP and am swapping out Humbuckers for GFS Dream and Mean. The studio already has old quick connects and the GFS have the Kwikplugs. The question how do I connect them properly with the different wiring??

I can see that switch is parked in the smokin' gear. It's so organic, and once again has a surface you can dive into. Awesome stuff buddy!

Beautiful!

Still working on the finishing process! Had quite a mishap recently with some epoxy that I hadn’t mixed correctly. Anyway…Really not sure about this idea that I mocked up in Photoshop. It's weird for sure. I kind of like it…but hmmm…what do you think?

Wowzer! Looks even better with the hardware on.

Wow Andy, how very kind of you to say so. This is my favorite so far as well. But then, my favorite is always the last one I built..... SR