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  2. A luthier I once knew had his workshop in the cellar of a music store. Concrete walls from the fifties "in original condition" meaning all the accumulated dust in every pore imaginable! Plus the plumbing and other tubes and pipes hanging from the ceiling... He had wet bed sheet hanging around the painting area to catch any airborne dust.
  3. some of them want to.... yeah, I'm sure there is. I guess my next step is to get aggressive on the sand back of the blonde. if I burn through or otherwise screw it up I can always strip it. gonna wash out my tub, maybe even whipe it down with alcohol, then line it with a new garbage bag. we'll see if we can avoid the 'floaties".
  4. There will be someone out there that will pay good money for that.
  5. ADFinlayson

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    Out of interest, these bobbles that I've been referring to - is that orange peel? or are they two different things?
  6. Today
  7. it's a small wonder why the blue hasn't had issues w dust... we have 3 cats and a dog and despite hepa filter in the ac everything has pet hair on it. i guess cause it's blue I just can't see it but I'm sure it's there! "this finish was made with 30% genuine cat hair"!
  8. fair enough, I have no gun either - With the current one and wiping on the finish, I have the guitar lay down flat on the bench and I'm convinced as soon as I close the door, the dust goblins float down and land on it.
  9. funny you mention that... there is one fleck of green flake that ended up in the finish. it is from a guitar I did 3+ years ago! I guess it must have been in the tub I was using but I blew it out before use... or at least I thought! it's strange... I know nitro tends to melt layers together... I got an eyelash in the finish last night and tried to wetsand it out... but it seems like it is so deep in the finish. I have no idea how it got that deep! i swear it wasn't there yesterday morning... only sprayed one layer and yet it seems like it is all the way down to the color coat. also, no spray gun here... just spray can!
  10. Chuck a bit of glitter in your spray gun and call it metallic
  11. ADFinlayson

    Shielding and Grounding

    Pretty much every strat-type guitar I've seen has adhesive foil stuck to the underside of the pickguard, I imagine this is down to whomever manufactures it for them putting it on, even a £5 scratch plate from amazon or ebay normally has the foil on it. When I was researching grounding a while back for my first build, I saw lots of threads saying that coating the cavities with something conductive was not deemed necessary by manufacturers as it's more down to the power supply in the location than the guitar itself and the faraday cage made no difference in factory conditions, especially on guitars fitted with humbuckers. Generally I tend to setup my builds prior to finish to make sure I'm happy with neck carve etc, so get them playing before I've painted the control cavities with conductive paint and I've got to say that I've never noticed a difference between a shielded cavity and a non-shielded cavity in terms of noise, but domestic wiring in the UK is a lot better than it is in some parts of the world, which stands up with what I read. I shield all my cavities anyway because you never know when you're going to end up playing in a scabby venue with ancient wiring.
  12. thank you sir. yes, finishing is always a test for me. I should have just gone poly as in the past that seems pretty fool proof to me but I really feel like I am getting better at tru oil... just need to hang in there. at this point it's more stubborn desire to 'beat it'! thank you sir. the cream one - it really doesn't take photos well but afa how it looks - it turned out pretty much how I imagined... just little specs of this and that everywhere. can only see them close up. thinking I might strip it back and this time take my plastic tub and cover it immediately after spraying. white/cream is always so difficult to do w/o imperfections!
  13. mistermikev

    Margaret ver.. 2

    Oh, oh oh... I know what it is! it's no strings right? hehe. looks cool.
  14. mistermikev

    Shielding and Grounding

    who knows... maybe they just wanted the "look" of shielding!
  15. ADFinlayson

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    Thanks, I've got rid of the majority of the bobbles with all the scuff and wet sanding I did, clearly sanding through the sealer was as far as I needed to go I'm going to add another couple of wipe on coats, then sand another coat in with wet and dry and hopefully that will do it.
  16. Andyjr1515

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    Excellent! That looks a lot better overall to my eyes. Well done
  17. count to 10, or 1000 or a million- whatever it takes- walk away and come back with a clear mind. Finishing is the most PIA part of building imho (and that includes sanding)- but- the results will be worth it. That blue in the pic above is deep and rich- if you can get back there- terrific. if you get 90% back there- just as good- but- alas- the builder knows the issues and never sees past them. keep the faith man- seriously- dont touch it for how ever long it takes to "get over it". you will be glad you did- TRUST ME. if you are still pissed about it- dont touch that guitar. i did a white les paul a decade or so ago and sanded back that mo fo at least 3 times. I mean 10-12 coats of mcfaddens that had hardened. F me man- that sucked. but I had to come to terms with the fact that I was spraying with a preval sprayer- putting clear over WHITE - spraying in a garage that had its doors up and down every day. I had to deal with the fact that the finish was going to have a couple specs no matter what I did. once I got there- mentally- I mean- really- mentally-well- you know.
  18. thaumgarrett

    Margaret ver.. 2

    Hello all. I've posted I-forget-how-many plans in this forum that never actually came to fruition so I put a moratorium on that until I actually had some wood cut out and some photos to show for it. During that time I spent a few moments thinking about why I'm really doing this and what I hope to accomplish, all of which resulted in a huge re-thinking of the whole design. Behold the Mini-Margaret... MDF top and bottom with a wood "center block" that isn't really a block (I think this might be how Danelectro is making them nowadays, but I'm not 100% sure about that) and a body shape specifically conformed to take advantage the material I most often have on hand. Of course there's already one glaring flaw that's going to make it all but unplayable in a live situation (points if you can spot it...) but I'm determined to see this one through - both for use in my own recordings and because I want to test out the finishing option(s) I currently have running through my head. Cheers.
  19. thaumgarrett

    Shielding and Grounding

    And thank you again. What threw me is that I (used to) own one factory-made guitar that had foil on the back of the cover but nothing conductive (that I could tell) on the underside of the control cavity, nor any means of grounding that one chunk of foil. But the more I think about it, based on these responses, maybe it was just lousy build quality since it was a $50 budget guitar. Should have mentioned that I bought it for parts and didn't plug it in before disassembly so for all I know the thing buzzed always buzzed like heck.
  20. well here's the current state of my two. really struggling with these two. so this is the blue when I had it almost perfect... but had some really faint surface scratches and just wet sanded too much... now working to get back here! and this is the blonde... I'm doing this in nitro so have been shooting it in my backyard inside a plastic tub setup in the corner to try to prevent any debris... but it has really tiny stuff everywhere. I'm tempted to try spraying in my garage but I've got a gas water heater so... probably not a great idea. I am thinking I might go on the side of my house where there is a 8' area between the fence and the house for more windbreak... but az has a lot of debris in the air even when it's not windy (so dry, pollen, etc). just can't win! pretty much every evening ends up with me disgusted with them both and doing something else to keep my mind off of it! very discouraged right now.
  21. Alright, so Amazon shipping messed up again...I really hate it when the delivery guy assumes that leaving the parcel on my doorstep is "good enough"...I mean it's one thing if I'm home, but when I'm not, it's a different story! Thus far I've had 2 DVD's one pedal and more recently, the replacement tremolo arm, stolen by a neighbor! They've always been good at refunding my money, and this time around, they added notes to contact me before delivery, and to ship to the nearest retail outlet if I'm not available...hopefully that helps. So...DHL was instructed to deliver the tremolo backplate to the nearest DHL outlet, and since the new replacement tremolo arm is being shipped via Canada Post, it'll either be slipped through the mail slot (like duh! It's not that big Amazon couriers! ) or it'll be sent to the nearest Postal Outlet (a block away from the DHL place, so it's alright, good exercise ) Miss Pauline is pretty much finished, the back plate is for cosmetics only (I'm using my old cream colored one that came on the MIM Strat, until I went white pearloid on it), and while I hardly ever use the tremolo arm, it's nice to have the option available
  22. Yesterday
  23. ADFinlayson

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    Ha not if I keep sanding all the red off. its not perfect, but we are back on track
  24. komodo

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    That thing looks incredible. It's like it's just waiting to get out and do some damage to something. Angry blood red LP will not fail!
  25. ADFinlayson

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    Yeah if I apply another coat, it will disappear
  26. D_W

    school me about planers...

    Yes to all you've said, though I always cut and thickness fingerboards with hand tools. I have a newer version of the planer you have (when I say that, I mean portable, not a craftsman). They generally will snipe. The typical procedure is this: * if you know the planer is set well, run an inexpensive wide board through, ensure that it's cutting similar thickness both sides. and that it's generally working properly * if you're not in a hurry, don't race to take off huge amounts. a 16th is fine - the board is going to go through and you can just basically pick it out, reduce thickness, feed it through, over and over.. * you should run at least one test pass with thin removal to make sure that there won't be much tearout (there shouldn't be with ebony - it doesn't have a lot of directional conviction or beam strength in the fibers) * your last pass should be relatively little removal to clean things up and not create more problems (the heavier the cut, the heavier the tearout). You'll likely have two problems: 1) the board will have snipe on the ends. You can see how long it will and make sure the area between the snipe is long enough for a finished board, or you can run dummy stock through. If your planer has four posts, it may have a locking mechanism and reduce snipe. 2) the planer's minimum thickness may be more than what you're looking for. You can affix your board to something to make it functionally thicker as long as that something is uniform in thickness (decent plywood is probably fine - I've never done this as I always hand plane thin items). I don't have the typical tools that a luthier would have in 2000, I have a lot of what they'd have had in 1890, so I don't have things like drum sanders, etc, that most folks would use to thickness something thin like this. Before you are finished with what you're doing, I would get a good look at the fingerboard with some hope that it is close to flat before final thickness. While I like to work entirely by hand and have no bandsaw or any such things, when the mrs wants something done (like casework, etc), I find a thickness planer to be a godsend, though it cheats me out of part of the work that I really enjoy (dimensioning). It's worth getting used to using one. They're not that dangerous as long as you keep your hands out of them, but they will make a filthy mess without strong dust control. Shop vac on trash can with 4 inch line to the planer will catch most. Watch out for the dust control nazis when you start talking about dust control.
  27. Andyjr1515

    Ovangkol LP rebuild

    Does the milky stuff go away if you wipe it with poly?
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