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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/07/2020 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Hi I present to you "SwiftGuitar", sometimes shortened to SG It's an 'in the style of' Gibson's iconic classic but with a few tweaks along the way. I've been building guitars and basses as a hobby for around 7 years: sometimes for my own use; sometimes for friends or fellow band members; once for a Nepalese buddhist who played in heavy metal band; occasionally commissions This one is for a friend, Matt, and has used mainly wood that I had accumulated over the years and pickups that Matt himself has wound or modified. Spec is: Timbers: Top -Yew; Back -Sapele; Neck - Mahogany & Purpleheart; Fretboard - Ebony; Inlays - Mother of Pearl Scale: 24.75" Fretwire: Jescar Evo Gold Finish: Body - Ronseal Hardglaze Polyurethane Varnish (brushed on); Neck - Danish oil slurry-and-buffed Weight: 8lb 6oz There is a (long) blow by blow build thread (link below) for anyone in Covid lockdown and who's finally run out of things to do : And here it is: My hands are shot for playing but before the comp closes, I'll see if I can find a way of getting some sound clips without contravening the lockdown rules Thanks for looking!
  2. 8 points
    The last couple of days have been about the final knockings - final shaping and refinishing of the neck, set-up and strap buttons I had built a couple of tweaks to help the balance but the main one - fitting Axesrus' (a decent UK supplier) wonderful lightweight aluminium tuners - was dashed because of (presumably Covid-related) non-availability. Instead, I have fitted some really, really nice open gear Hipshots - but, honestly, they are quite a bit heavier than the Axesrus ones. But when Matt tried it out. I watched how he played and we discussed that yes - he does want to get to that 24th fret..and with his thumb wrapped round and so the back button wanted to be in the 'traditional' place if at all possible. But what I do (with all of my builds) is first fit the back button, then pop a slippy strap on it, over my shoulder and, holding the strap in various positions while supporting the guitar, gauge where the balance was going to be. And it looked like we could get there. So on went the back button (and nowhere near the 'goldilocks' zone of 12th -13th fret I always recommend!): ...and then popped a slippy strap on and hands off... So, whatever position Matt likes to play, it should be absolutely fine Final bit of polishing up tomorrow and it's ready to go to Matt. So one last glance before it goes into the gig bag: Yup - that'll do And as always, many thanks for the kind words and great encouragement along the way - always very much appreciated
  3. 8 points
    Back to hanging like a side of beef. SR
  4. 7 points
    You're not kidding about an early stage! But my next build is at an even earlier stage:
  5. 7 points
    Ah go on, I'll give you a sneak preview of a photo taken on my phone. The SLR shots will follow later
  6. 7 points
    Name: Prcknow R.S. Hey folks, here's my first build ever. With little prior woodworking experience, it's been a wild ride but I'm extremely happy with the result. I decided to name it Prcknow (derived from the Croatian word "prkno" that is slang word for ass...) because whenever I brought the topic of building a guitar among friends, the joke was "if you build it, it'll sound like ass" hence the name. R.S. stands for "racing stripes", just like on racing cars, the racing stripes along the neck/body make you play faster haha. (lame jokes among friends, but oh well...) The whole journey was documented here: Neck-trough part is made by laminating wenge and pear stripes, the wings are mahogany. Neck thickness is 20mm at the 1st fret, 21.5mm at the 12th fret but around the 16th-17th it starts getting thicker a little bit faster. I always felt I didn't have anything to hold onto while bending strings at the upper registers hence why I made it to start getting thicker towards that end (we're talking about 24mm at the 17th fret, so not extreme, but nicely noticable). Fretboard radius is 10". The inlays are made from the same pear, positioned above the neck stripes, to make it look like they are showing through the rosewood. Body wise, I tried to keep it pretty slim, the body is 36mm at the thickest part around the pickups, going down to 13-15mm at the edges. It balances pretty well (center of mass is around the neck heel joint, a bit towards the body) so no noticeable neck dive. Picture of the back side + neck: Hardware wise I used a Schaller bridge, Kluson tuners, Graph Tech Black Tusq nut, Fender standard frets, Q-Parts Dome Potiknob with the Celtic weave and Göldo string trees with the rollers. Tendency was that all hardware is black. Electronics wise, the pots and mini toggle is from Göldo, Dimarzio X2N and D'Activator pickups and a Göldo audio jack accessable from the top. No problems plugging/unpluggin cables. The volume pot is a pull/push one, so there are 6 configurations all together: Volume pot pushed down: Neck, Neck + Bridge, Bridge, Volume pot pulled out splits the coils: Split Neck (with the coil closer to the neck working), Split Neck + Split Bridge, Split Bridge (with the coil towards the bridge working). It was all finished with minwax wipe-on poly, with the front in a full shiny mirror finish, while the back side was made to be more of a satin feel so the hand slides nice along the neck. I will try to get a video demo of it playing, really happy with the sound, the DiMarzios scream pretty wild, but can deliver surprisingly nice clean tones as well.
  7. 6 points
    Restrictions have lightened up where I live and I was able to relocate and get to my tools, so I'm finally starting in on this build. Nothing quite like the smell of freshly-planed mahogany! And now the strangest and happiest of surprises; while I was planing what I thought was a totally normal piece of ebony for the fingerboard, I quickly realized that it's actually a heavily-figured unicorn of a board! I'm no veteran woodworker, but I have never even *heard* of figured ebony (outside of people using the word "figure" to describe grain patterns in ebony, sap-wood inclusions, pale moon ebony patterns, etc.) I was shocked, and had to do some googling to make sure I wasn't actually working with some other species by accident. You can see in the pictures from the first post when it's still rough-cut from the band saw that it looks like a very ordinary piece of ebony, so when I saw the figure I was certain I must have been given a mis-marked piece of curly black walnut or something, but it doesn't smell or respond to tools like walnut, it chips like ebony and smells like it too. Definitely surprised me, and I'm pretty sure this will inadvertently become the most beautiful fretboard I've even made!
  8. 6 points
    And so, although I am going to fine-tune the neck profile and also need to take the neck pickup back to Matt to switch the internal wiring, externally, this is done. So - with apologies for the self-indulgence - here it is: As always, thanks for looking and the huge encouragement along the way
  9. 6 points
    Forgive the dust on the headstock - I promise to give it a wipe-down before I do the fancy photos - but I put a couple of magnets on the trussrod cover: Which hold it secure and straight: Underneath the tip there is a tiny bevel sanded so that removal is just fingernail stuff: Pickups and electrics are in and the 'first fit' is being done today and tomorrow. Two things I've already picked up that need tweaking: - now I've tried it with strings, the neck needs just a bit more shaving off the haunches - the two pickups are out of phase in the middle position (although they sound great individually). As they are single conductor jobbies, it's an internal swop rather than just swopping the hot and return that you can do with a two-wire setup so I'll get one of them back to Matt to do the surgery. But it's close enough to do a gratuitous photo or two If the light is good in the morning, I'll do the arty-farty photos before I take the neck pickup out again as it won't really change in outward appearance from this point on
  10. 5 points
    This weekend the leveling was with micromesh grits 1500.1800,2400, and 3200. Only 3600, 4000, 6000, 8000, and 12000 to go. SR
  11. 5 points
    Thanks guys. I may be in a strange state where i am consumed by this. Been working 10 hour days on these non stop for over 2 months. Here are a few updated pics. The green one got to its new owner and he loves it. Waiting to ship out the blue one this next week.
  12. 5 points
    This has actually been finished for some time now, but I've only just gotten around to taking some shots of it. Sadly the lighting is a bit off today so there's a few shadows I wish weren't so visible, but I needed to just get in there and finalise it. Thar she blows!
  13. 5 points
    Name: Aquilae 50 Here are the specs: Shape: Headless 6-string. Heavily influenced by ergonomic design by Ola Strandberg (Boden model) Body woods: Poplar Burl -top (15mm, bookmatched 2 piece) + European Alder (2 piece) Scale: 25,5inch, 22 frets Neck: Bolt-On Flaxwood Hybrid with jumbo nickel frets (pre-manufactured without filled fretboard dots) (Wood fiber composite -material) Fretboard dot inlay color: Black, Side dots: Orange (luminous) Hipshot 6 String Guitar Headless Fixed -bridge (tuning machines) + traditional headpiece Pickups: Fishman Fluence Tosin Abasi -set, DIY pickup rings Pickup Selector: 5-way Schaller Megaswitch 1 volume -pot
  14. 5 points
    I've finally finished my first two builds, done simultaneously...it took just over six months and I'm happy with the results. Named them 'The Teetotaler' 1a & 1b. The design is my own but the overall construction & specs are based on the modern Telecaster (I thought that would make things somewhat more achievable as a newbie), but with a chunkier neck and a mini-humbucker at the bridge. 25.5 scale & weigh 7.8 lbs. The electronics & hardware are all inexpensive imports as I didn't want to break the bank on this first attempt. I started with mostly common household tools and I bought specialty tools as needed (or found work arounds), most of the work was done in my laundry room unless it was nice enough outside. Body is made of poplar finished with Rust-oleum semigloss spray paint, the finger board is wenge. The biggest difference between the two (besides color) are the necks. The white one is mahogany while the black one is limba - both are finished with Tru-Oil. The link to my build thread:
  15. 5 points
    Cutting is done.
  16. 5 points
    As you can enter again with the same guitar, I may as well So I’ve been building a headless recently and now it is complete. It’s neck through design...was so close to a one piece in terms of the thickness of the Wenge blank! Oh well. This gradually evolved in to a Strandberg inspired build. One unusual is the scale length of 23.4 and the deliberate lack of a fretboard radius. Combined with the jumbo frets and skinny neck (almost Ibanez Wizard profile) its ended up quite an interesting guitar. First time using Glu boost as a finish, I like it! Although the poplar burl top was very ‘thirsty’ for want of a better word. ‘Dark Ember’ Frets- 21 Radius- Flat Pickups- EMG 57/66 Frets- Jumbo stainless steel Body- Wenge Top- Poplar burl Weight - 5.2 lbs Pickguard- Carbon fibre Finish- Glue boost Build thread-
  17. 5 points
    I mentioned on my Rick build that I also am working on a strat build. This will be a slightly longer post as it contains everything I've done up until today. I have an idea for some custom inlays but I need to work out how to rout the fretboard really accurately for them as I'm a bit of a perfectionist. And I'm going to get my wife to design a headstock shape. Body - Australian Red Cedar Neck - Queensland Maple Fretboard - Sheoak Here is the Fretboard and Body Blank. Body Blank with a bit of spirit rubbed on it. Rough cut body. Pickups wound. And in pickguard. Master Volume, Master Tone and Blend.
  18. 5 points
    Midpoint in spraying cycle. I leveled that ...... mostly and finished spraying. And held this shot out in the direct sunlight to see how that looked. Bright. SR
  19. 5 points
    That's what a matte finish might look like. If that was how it going to be finished. I shot a few layers of clear lacquer for a base and then did some tinting. And some bursting. SR
  20. 5 points
    Thanks guys! Looking forward to keeping this updated. @Workingman, I hope I can live up to expectations - very jealous of double-bass players, it's just an achingly cool instrument! So today marks the end of week one and finishing the core of the neck! I feel like all I've done is keep planes sharp and clamp bits of wood together but it's all worth it! The padauk was a bulk buy a while ago, so took quite a lot of work to get it down to the 15mm needed. Good planing (and sharpening) practice though! That big no. 6 plane gives a crazy good finish when it's sharp! (It used to be my grandad's too so it's great to be using that). The robot overlord says yes! Pretty cool what you can get out of an old hand plane and a straight-edge! It took a couple of scarf joints to get the maple and wenge long enough... And a lot of clamps... Clamps off tonight though, and what a result! Really pleased with how the pinstripes have turned out! Getting that maple down to 1.5mm was so tricky! I think it's about as complicated as I'd want to go on the neck construction but this should be a cool feature. The caliper says it's at width to 0.1-0.2mm or so. I'm going to leave that space to tidy up before gluing and move onto the maple for the bulk of the neck!
  21. 4 points
    So after a long hiatus, I'm back building again! My last was the explorer in about 2015, so it's been a while. I've been loving playing that in my band, easily the best sounding guitar I own! I've wanted to get back to it for ages, but life got in the way with moving countries and house buying etc.. Lockdown and furlough has given me a prime opportunity to finally get the shed set up and back to it though! Anyway, this time around it's going to be a bass - my first one! I've been spending more time with my Thunderbird lately but am really craving that extra string for some djenty/metally/proggy goodness. In particular I'm after that Darkglass-infused modern tone (ala Karnivool/Plini etc). I'm struggling a bit with finding pickups at a reasonable price at the moment, but the plan is for a set of passive soapbars going through a 3 channel pre-amp. Any recommendations would be appreciated as I'm much more on top of guitar p'ups than bass ones! I've taken an Ibanez SR as the start-point, mixed in a little Warwick Corvette and made my own headstock design. I'm also going with a proper logo for the first time! Scale length is 34.5", I wanted to keep a little of that de-tuned percussiveness in the low-B as well as not losing the playability of a "normal" scale-length with moving to a 35". Seemed a decent compromise. I'm also keeping the narrow nut spacing of my Thunderbird (classic pro) as I love how that neck feels. Woods-wise it's going to be a 7-piece neck-through made up of Maple, Wenge and Padauk. The body is mahogany topped with a generous bit of maple for some carving. The generosity is primarily down to the mahogany I have warping after I cut it from the blank a year or two ago.. hopefully what was salvageable is stable now! I've already made a start on the neck, but here are the plans so far - there's a bit more work to do to tie down details, but it gives the idea. Good to be back!!
  22. 4 points
    I whipped together a couple of Stickley/Greene & Greene style stools for the house. Nothing amazing; Sapele and Ebony with a Tru-Oil finish. The upholstery is a traditional style of slip cushion made over a Birch frame, Jute webbing, foam padding, batting, muslin cover and finally a really nice semi-aniline leather over the top. This was all tensioned so the seat feels firm with consistency rather than floppy and empty. Really pleased with how the precise joinery and detailing came together with light 2,5° angles, curves and planes.
  23. 4 points
    Hi All, First post but lurking for a while. Name - The rocker The woods: Black Limba 2 piece body and neck, Rosewood fretboard with MOP inlay dots Both neck and body are finished in Tru-oil apart from the front of the headstock which I spray lacquered for the logo script 24.75" scale Pickup - Oil City Blackbird bridge which is coil split on the volume and standard tone, Rosewood knobs This is my first proper build but I have put together an LPJ kit guitar and a parts-caster Tele before this. It's something I've wanted to do for a long time. The build started over a year ago in truth and I've been slowly progressing it bit by bit, learning from mistakes along the way. Initially I wanted it to look like a Yamaha StarFlighter so that inspired the body shape and I liked the idea of it being a Junior style guitar with one pickup. There was no master design plan to this guitar if I'm honest. I got the wood, had a rough idea of body shape and then made design decisions as I went along. No build thread on this forum unfortunately but I did post some progress pics here.
  24. 4 points
    It's time to watch paint dry..... This has been hanging for a week, so in my schedule of events, it's time to break the surface of the lacquer and help it breath deeply. I take two pieces of 400 grit and lay one face up on a flat surface and wrap the other around a small flat sanding block. I use that one to literally sand the surface of the face up piece. This knocks the points off the abrasive so it leaves sanding scratches more like what you'd get with 600 or 800 grit. But it has the grit load and spacing of 400 grit so it doesn't load up very fast and what does load is easy wiped of with a swipe on your blue jeans. This modified piece goes in a small foam sanding block and is lightly, lovingly stroked across all surfaces, gently knocking back the orange peel. There are a few shiny spots left that I'll begin sneaking up on with finer grits next weekend. SR
  25. 4 points
    So I decided to make a black 3-ply pickguard. I screwed it on and got the first notes!!! Love the tone! It s got girth and pop, definition and ooomph. Suits my style perfectly. Weighs at 2.8 kilos! It is light!! I will wait for the Steinbergers so that I can complete the project by the end of this week , but I sure dig where this is going!!! Better call tone!
  26. 4 points
    You should sell them as an aftermarket upgrade to those hangers. You could call them "rock socks".
  27. 4 points
    And now some finishing process... The guitar is now drying for 2 week before levelling and buffing. I use Crystallac Brite Tone sanding sealer and finish. it's the first time I used it and if I knew it's so good, I would have bought it way before!!!! I really love this finish! I use a HVLP Fuji gun with 1mm needle. The pic are just the first coat...
  28. 4 points
    Well, 3 hours + trying to figure out the wiring (imported 3 way switch took a few trials/errors) --- there's a bit of a buzz in the neck pickup that I still have to sort out, and it is in dire need of a set-up, and I may need to redo the nut --- but the switch and knobs work and it doesn't electrocute me or anything. That's a win! I'll have some proper pictures once its all polished & step up - and the white one is wired-up too, but here are some quick snaps of where it is now:
  29. 4 points
    Is it just me or does that tree trunk look like a pair of legs and a butt?
  30. 4 points
    Well it took three tries. This material is brittle and if you don’t have the rough cut smooth and close to the line, the router would chip chunks out. Also, I was trying to hand fit the pup holes, only to get it ‘close’. But this build isn’t about ‘close’. On the last, I cut up to the line, sanded smooth right up to it, used a downcut spiral bit in my drill press and got it vertically perfect and cut the pup holes (same bit as was used for the cavities in the body, so same corner radius), the beveled slowly with the router. Finally perfect.
  31. 4 points
    Big day, lets carve this body out. First thanks to mistermikev and Bizman62 for their advice on carving a rough blank without having a nice expensive band saw. The idea was drill a bunch of holes around the perimeter then use a simple jigsaw to connect the holes. I visioned the jigsaw not being enough so I over reacted and made a couple cuts with a sawzal. Yep, I'm including that just to make some people uneasy. I realized I was being silly and tried the jigsaw, went famously. The key for me was using a full size drill press to the holes were atleast square to the body. Took a bunch of passes and three different router bits. Almost gave up for the night but didn't. So pleased.
  32. 4 points
    Hope everybody is doing well during all this craziness. Here is a cool thing that happened in the past couple days. Normally my green guitars get a lot of roasting. But somehow this one had the most reach and views ive ever had on my business page. over 14,000!
  33. 3 points
    turned out to be a 5 minute job with the belt sander now I just need some suitable screws and tidy it up a bit.
  34. 3 points
    Better photos: Even though the design is relatively simple, some of the details were a trick. Each side is raked 2,5 degrees from the vertical, so the ends of the upper and lower rails need to be cut cleanly and accurately to that so as not to be gappy. The raised cloud lift detail of the upper rail required 3mm of material to be cut from the entire face of the component. It seems a simple operation, but without the right approach can look sloppy. The same applies to the ends of the legs (both with compound 2,5/2,5 degree faces) where the 19mm upper radii blends out from the corners. With it not being 90 degrees, it can't be done as a simple roundover. The diagonal braces supporting the seat inside the frame are also cut with compoung 45/2,5 degree ends to be gap-free. I enjoy making these sorts of things to practice precision and problem-solving. I think if I do get the chance to make another, some sort of cutout with leather padding and lower bout supports for a guitar would be very cool. Hell, I think the number of people that own guitars these days (especially in Finland) would appreciate this sort of functional furniture.
  35. 3 points
    I recently bought myself a wall hanger that can take up to 9 guitars. However it came with a warning that the coating on the hangers could react with nitrocellulose lacquer. I think it just affects the accessory (leads, headphones, etc.) hangers, but just to be on the safe side I butchered an old pair of jeans I even had to go and buy some orange thread for the proper "look"
  36. 3 points
    The paint job explains the project title..... This forum has taught me so much. I wanted to show yall the latest item and thank this group for all the sharing you have done over the years. -Alder body.....shape my own version as I wanted something small -neck is Sapele.....used a router bit for 95% of its shape -rosewood fingerboard from stewmac....pre slotted -black dyes veneer for head cap -two floyd nuts for headless clamping -jcustom bridge -seymore duncan pickups -push pull pot for cool tap and 3 way switch.....no cap in electronics....wired direct -shaller s locks for strap -magic marble paint for swirl........yes I know it is not perfect....but it is mine and uniquie.....and fit the theam -eastwood 2k clear in a can.....2 cans....and still not perfectly flat but good enough for me -tru oil on neck.....and lemon oil on fretboard Thanks again for all your help over the years!!!!
  37. 3 points
    I've had a few things to do, but today I'm getting onto re-profiling the neck. I asked Dan to choose his most comfortable neck out of his "stable", and he picked a fairly modern single cut LP junior. So the first job was to copy the profile at the 1st & 12th frets with my mitre gauge and transfer it to paper Then I put it through my hot laminator to stiffen it and cut it out with a scalpel The neck on the Gibson is slightly narrower, especially on the 1st fret. So I adjusted the template to suit and then did the scary bit to that lovely Tru Oil finish... ...quickly followed by a major bit of shinto rasp butchery! That was a heck of a chunky neck before! Anyway, rinse and repeat at the 12th fret. That didn't need quite so much removing thank goodness. Now I'm joining up the two new profiles with my trusty shinto rasp and a straight rule, which should keep me busy most of the day
  38. 3 points
    Scribed, and filled in for visibility. Please don’t let anyone in the Lovecraft Society know that I made a pink Cthulhu. They will take my card away. First I tried milk as a binder which works excellently on glass, but not on wood. Reapplied using Titebond, so the paper should ‘t shred and pull-up as I route.
  39. 3 points
    It's back in my possession. The extra-chunky neck that was requested is a little too chunky. I get to reshape the neck
  40. 3 points
    Dan tried to post a response to this thread, but had a few difficulties registering. This is what he just WhatsApp'ed to me, what he wanted to say:
  41. 3 points
    As a moderator, mine have not been an issue. I was just bringing the problem these other gentlemen were having to your attention.....as a good mod should. SR
  42. 3 points
    All - can you check you reactions quota and see if you can make more than five please? I have a feeling I may have found the issue and have bumped you all up to something a bit more realistic. Note: I don't know what might happen to those of you who may have already reached your quota in 24 hours. You may need to wait an additional 24 hours for your quotas to reset before you're able to test.
  43. 3 points
    Thanks Noz. Ok, so there's still something not quite right with the reactions quota for some accounts. Let me have a bit of a poke around and see if I can find where the hiccup lies...
  44. 3 points
    @Bizman62, @ADFinlayson, @mistermikev, @Norris, @ScottR - Can I get a quick check-in from you guys and see if you're still happy with the number of reactions you're able to make per day? Something Ash posted in another topic has got me thinking you're still running into the limit too early.
  45. 3 points
    Of course it will be. You've raised it since it was a pup. SR
  46. 3 points
    Phew! It's done. It played quite nicely before, but it's 73.4% better now It sings so nicely and the notes flow, so that it even makes me sound like a guitarist (I'm a bass player btw) I did a much better job of polishing the frets too. I don't know why I did it by hand before - it's so much easier & better result with the Dremel So it's probably handover early next week, although I'll admit I'd love to be able to keep it
  47. 3 points
    Hi Just a final, final post-script (note the sophisticated and subtle thread bump method)... ...but I did promise that if Matt did a side by side comparison of the K&K Pure Mini and LR Baggs Anthem systems I would post it. And this is probably unique on Youtube. Because the two systems are independent, Matt can record both during the same performance And this is it - same guitar, same player, same performance, same DAW settings (no EQ) Oh...and modesty almost forbids me to mention it but...he says some very nice things about the guitar at the end!
  48. 3 points
    Iv done this before. Its very involved to get the type of grain you want in the neck for stability. You need to work from the fret board surface as a level. That way the neck grain is running the length of the neck. You carve the head stock just like the Gibson factory would, so you get a typical les paul neck joint. But carving the body is the tricky part. you need to carve the whole body at an angle, using the fret board face as your level starting point. Best thing to do is get hold of a les paul & make a few templates along its neck & body. this will give you an ides of the shape you need. The biggest issue I had was finding a billet of timber big enough that had no issues with grain. Also, when you cut away that much wood, the remainder of the billet starts to move about a lot. So you need to give yourself a lot of extra material to work with. It took me 3 attempts to get 1 guitar. Using Sepelle that was close to 600 euro in just timber. Hope that helps
  49. 3 points
    First thing off the list today, saddle earthed and bridge on posts. Bit of tidying to be done around the saddle where the glue squeezed out. Wired up the 3 way switch and screwed down the tailpiece. Then strap locks screwed in place. In the house for some daylight pics. Tested in an amp, it's alive!! Still need to sort out the action, put a truss rod cover on it, snip the strings, general tidy up and polish. Just glad it works, the saddle is a success. The intonation seems to be correct, at least to me...
  50. 3 points
    Had a busy day yesterday, not much time to do any work. The only thing I managed to get done was the sinking of the jack plate. Still needs tidying up a bit around the edges and I also want to oil the cut outs
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