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Showing most liked content since 01/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Introducing the Pinky Dinky Mahogany/Alder 3-and-a-bit-piece SS body, Maple (reverse F-style) neck, Richlite fretboard, Gotoh fixed bridge (Cosmo Black), Gotoh 381 tuners (Cosmo Black), Irongear "Metal Machine" pup and Amaranth Red matte finish
  2. 5 points
    Just a little update. I finally got the Paduak SS sanded and a few coats of oil on it. Darkened up a lot, but is looking really organic.
  3. 5 points
    Mordor approves this burst 😁
  4. 4 points
    Assembly time! My son helped (it means he has claimed the guitar), but being 8, we went trough the paint on the tip of the headstock while polishing...I guess we can live with that. The clause is that he has to take lessons 184 by Goran P, on Flickr Bridge and the wiring to follow!
  5. 4 points
    I am not yet finished sanding with 120 grit.... ....and it will take all week for my fingerprints to grow back. SR
  6. 4 points
    Success! Got over the first hurdle.
  7. 4 points
    I cut the neck pocket into the top right down the center of those red lines and then used a template and routed the edges to clean them up. I went past the end a bit because that is coming out anyway, for the pickup cavity. In a different thread I had mentioned that I wanted to find a spiral top bearing pattern following bit. The half inch diameter bit on the right is what I wanted to replace, and the 3/8" diameter three flute angled bit on the left is the closest I came. I will say that one cuts like butter so far. Its half inch diameter big brother seems to want to chatter more. I like to screw the top on in the pickup route waste area for glue up. Zebrawood chips badly, as I found out once again countersinking for the screws. This is likely to disappear during the normal course of things, but it makes me feel better to glue it back in for now. Wiring channels routed. And the top is glued and clamped. SR
  8. 4 points
    Time to reveal the latest Kemp build in all its glory... Had a real hard time selecting pics for this one. There's 8 on the website but here's (I think) the best handful... Custom 8-string DC - Wenge/Maple thru-neck, Ziricote drop-top on Sapele (stained) body wings, Multiscale Bocote fretboard, Hipshot fixed bridge, Gotoh 381 Magnum Lock tuners, Bare Knuckle Pickups Aftermath set and Tru-Oil finish
  9. 3 points
    Next batch of builds on the bench... Maple necks with Flame Maple, Richlite (again) and Wenge fretboards. Bodies in Ash, Sipo, Korina and Sipo with Flame Maple top. Doesn't look too fancy at the moment but they will when "finished" In the meantime, finally got the Pinky Dinky on the blanket today... Frets sorted and shielding (rear cavity and pup rout) done ready for assembly and setup tomorrow
  10. 3 points
    Nine years building, first time bending a droptop (7mm Flame Maple) over a forearm contour. No cracks New custom build (1 of 3 just started) which'll be regularly appearing over the coming weeks...
  11. 3 points
    I'm liking the evolution of your design on this one, Andy. That's so pointy by your standards, it's practically a BC Rich Warlock. Where does the quadruple-locking Floyd Rose, pyrotechnic launcher and spandex attach? If oak is good enough for Brian May...
  12. 3 points
    The resurrection of the Pinky Dinky... Part 4 - Thought about coming away from the "pink" theme completely but I didn't want to use the neon paint again as I wasn't happy with the product or application. Working with what I already had in terms of paint, I thought about a solid black/white burst. Unfortunately, I didn't have as much black as I'd like so I ordered in some Amaranth Red, in keeping with the pink theme a little... Aye?
  13. 3 points
    Still have some shaping to do, and some curves to clean up on the back, but here is how it stands right now. That felt like a pretty productive weekend. SR
  14. 3 points
    Greetings! Hope all is well. The weather is warming up here and it makes for much more enjoyable build environments. I finally got around to gluing this up and cutting it out. Been wanting to do this combo for years!
  15. 3 points
  16. 3 points
    I'll submit my two guitars for this month's selection. Two because if you are going to build one, why not two. This is my first attempt at building a guitar. All my woodworking experience has been with right angles. I have only been playing for two years. There were based on a Gibson J-100 style using mahogany back and sides with sitka spruce top, rosewood fretboard/bridge/headpiece. I have named them "William" and one will be gifted to my teacher. I have an unfinished basement I use as a wood shop. Unfortunately, no heat. I chose the plan base on what I thought I could make and learned various techniques from books and Internet videos. I have attached an audio clip of a friend playing one. IMG_0702.mp3
  17. 3 points
    Crossing the International Punchline will do that sometimes.
  18. 3 points
    I probably dress frets the same way everyone does at least for the first steps. Seat the frets and file a bevel into the ends. Level the frets. I've been doing this with 400 grit paper glued to the face of my long plane. Mark a stripe across the crown of all the frets and then level to insure all fret crowns are on the same plane. Us a crowning tool to crown each fret. A marker stripe across the crown of each fret is useful here as well. Ideally, you'd like to leave a narrow stripe right down the center of each fret. I use the crowning tool to roll down the bevel off the fret ends and start the doming of the ends. Now I take a fret dressing file and round back the sharp little ends of the frets where they contact the edge of the fret board. I have a ceramic triangle stone with a triangular slot in it for sharpening fish hooks. I use 220 sandpaper fitted over that slot and run it the length of each fret like a crowning tool to polish the shoulders of each fret and dress up the crown a bit. Continue with 320 grit and 400. Once they have been polished up to 400, I get out my micromesh and the foam block that comes with it. I wrap the micromesh around the foam block and tilt the block so that one edge runs over the frets at a 45 degree angle. I run this up and down the fretboard. The foam block conforms to the radius of the fret board and the pointed edge of the block polishes up the edge up the fret from the base of the board to the crown. Running up the board gets one side of the frets and back down the board gets the other. I also run the block down the side of the fretboard at an angle which helps form the dome and polishes the ends as well.. repeating this through all the meshes leaves you with a nice polish and crown. While carving the neck and then sanding it, I also run the edge of the harder block with normal sandpaper at an angle over the fret ends which also adds to the doming of the ends. Clear as mud, eh? SR
  19. 3 points
    Next up is dressing the frets. Huh. the camera shows that I need to put a little more work into this.... Then I had a nice time carving the neck. And got a start on carving my logo into the volute, but it got too dark to finish. Something to look forward to next weekend I suppose. SR
  20. 2 points
    Despite having loads of guitar stuff planned for last weekend, I spent most of it doing THIS for my brother: Untitled by S K, on Flickr I made a template from the sink and then routed out the oak worktop. The drainage grooves were a NIGHTMARE. They needed a shallow degree of fall-away, which I incorporated with a jig, but everything shifted for the first cut; we had to duplicate the kicked line on the opposite end, to make it look like a deliberate feature I'll stick to microbiology. Scarf joints usually scare me, so I made a jig/brace to hold them. There are also two screws, using just the points to keep the wood in place. Untitled by S K, on Flickr I cut the fingerboard taper in too, and routed for adding binding BEFORE gluing it to the neck: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr After looking at planes for a while, I figured it made sense to buy a vintage model off eBay and try to restore it. I picked this Record no.5 jack plane (1931-195x) up for the same price as a new Irwin Record model. It was in pretty bad shape, with a crappy plastic handle (no rosewood or beech here), tonnes of rust, and a ruined paintjob. Untitled by S K, on Flickr I cleaned the rust away, stabilised the surface, and repainted. I also lapped and polished the sides. The handle needs a little more shaping, smoothing and drilling before it's ready. Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  21. 2 points
    Hi Yes - another one. This one is a special commission but one where I can also continue developing the concept of a light and playable guitar that would particularly appeal to older players, young players, new players and women players! It would be ungallant of me to suggest any more than two of the above categories would be ticked - new player and woman player - for this one to be built for my sister-in-law, Jane! The basic construction and design concept will be the same as the prototype - my own Swift Lite: ...which is perfect for my own use but will incorporate, if possible, some tweaks that a lead guitarist might appreciate: the upper horn cutaway positioned to allow a thumb anchor when bending strings at the upper frets the lower horn cutaway deepened, again for optimum upper fret access the lower waist moved rearward for better positioning when playing over knee longer upper horn. The one above balances perfectly at just under 6lbs. The new one will attempt to reach the design weight of 5 1/2 lb and so may need that extra length on the horn to compensate. The other thing I've tried is to teach myself to use Inkscape, after seeing the great results and reading the comments from some of yourselves about the product And here's the Inkscape mock-up with the Amboyna I am intending to use: Oh - and the other challenge, based on the fact I'm going to knock 1/2lb off the weight is that the back is going to be oak Yes - heavy, tool blunting, challenging to grainfill oak There is a reason. The house that Jane lived in all her life and her parents lived in all their married lives had a large oak shelf over one of the fireplaces. When the house, many years later, was demolished, Jane and Chris, my brother-in-law, managed to salvage the shelf...which is now in my shed... Although the above shows two humbuckers, I haven't fully decided the pickup configuration - might even go for a single P90... Anyway - while there is still plenty of deciding to do - let's declare this project open
  22. 2 points
    Wanted to start an official build thread for this project. I had posted before regarding questions I had so hopefully you'll forgive what might seem like a double post. Will try to keep this thread focused on evolution... here is the body I bought - not bad for $178. Its a wd 3A flamed maple that has a good split in the back by the control area which I will need to fill in. as posted elsewhere my intended wireup... This weekend I went to rockler here in phoenix. I just found out we had one and man... I could spend years in that store. Staying on point: I bought a piece of 1/8" maple that had a little bit of flame on it ($13). I built it into a trem rout cover and a control cover. Not exactly skilled workmanship as my string holes are 'compensated' (feature not a bug) even though I used a drill press. Didn't bother clamping down my material so - lesson learned! Anywho, good enough for the likes of me so here is what that looks like: also, in the background is a simple jig I built for my dremel router base to use in cutting the 5 way slot once my bits arrive. Here's a shot of the body with the babicz bridge I bought (got a deal on amazon for $117! plus signed up for a card so got $40 off). Wasn't thrilled with the amount of 'wobble' in the posts (when not screwed all the way in) that came with it but I guess the general consensus is it doesn't matter. I bought some wilkinson locking posts but they don't fit as smooth so... I figure I can add washers if I need to raise it - to keep it screwed tight so they don't wobble. my parts bin on the right... so far have a graph tech nut, some gotoh sgs 510z magnum locking tuners, a 5 way super switch, a 4p3t rotary, some gold pickguard screws and a neckplate and screws - so far. Have two texas specials and a seymour antiquity middle in my 'misc' pickups bin so... waiting on a musikraft cbs neck that should be about 4-6wks out yet. will update as I go! Thanks for watching!
  23. 2 points
    This one on the other hand was all about cleaning up compound curves. That involves a ton of sanding and touching and feeling and peering at the shape at various angles and light angles....all for subtle changes that don't show up in photos all that well. SR
  24. 2 points
    This is one of my offset bases. The baseplate of my Makita RT0701C's fixed base bolts onto this through the hole in the large end. The knob allows me to tension the router into the workpiece whilst I guide the wet end around the workpiece with more control. It keeps it perpendicular and depending on whether you place the knob in front or behind the cutting edge, you can vary the sort of control you have. Difficult to describe, because it's such a tactile thing. You know when you're in control.
  25. 2 points
    Looking good Ref the bridge position - is that already fixed? If so, it might be a better route to just tweak the left/right neck angle a touch. If it was me, I wouldn't worry about waiting for the ferrules - I would pop a top E and bottom E on normally and just tighten enough for them to be straight. I would then loosen the neck screws a touch and pull the neck towards the bass side - because of the length of the neck, the impact of tiny movements make a big difference to the string position at the upper frets. If I could comfortably reach even string spacing this way, I would just hold the sideways pressure while I retighten the screws. If not, I would just relieve the neck pocket a teeny bit (really talking teeny, teeny, hand sand with a nail-file emery board) at the relevant places and try again. Lining up a neck this way is pretty routine for bolt on or set necks - it is very rare that a neck will be smack on straight first time. Anyway, that's what I would personally do if the bridge is in the correct position. Hope this helps
  26. 2 points
    Fishman Fluence Modern pups for the custom DC Leopardwood top. Forgot I need a battery box... Could've been a disaster!!!
  27. 2 points
    I definitely didn't mean to imply that I was winging it. I spent about three days measuring and re-measuring and trying to be sure that I was correct with the amount of wood I'm taking off. I'm pretty comfortable that an angle of 0 will work with my chosen bridge. Of course, I've made mistakes before... I'll keep you guys updated, but in the mean time I had to order a new bandsaw blade because I think the one that came with my saw wasn't intended to saw through 3" thick exotic hardwoods over and over again.
  28. 2 points
    Then carved the neck join. SR
  29. 2 points
    Thats consistent with my own experience. In the case of this top, even though I wasnt going to be using the bulk of it until March at least, I still jointed and glued it up after I cut the drop top off of it because if I let it sit as once piece for another 4 months after slicing 3/4" off it, its almost guaranteed to move again given some time to sit, and I'd have to plane even more off to make the top flat for joining. Since its now already jointed and glued, if it develops a slight cup by the time I need it I can clamp that cup right out of it when I glue the top on and wont need to shave off any more thickness. I've got plenty of clamps
  30. 2 points
    oh, also, although this is a ways off as my new neck is still 5weeks out and I have some 'work' to do on this one... I will eventually post some recordings for your and others' curiosity.
  31. 2 points
    Huh. I'd swear that shit fossilizes on the hood of my truck in less than a week. SR
  32. 2 points
    One of these is supposed to be a trilobyte. I'm sure you can see which one. Thing is, this might be any sort of fossilized dung. Might just be opossum or bear.
  33. 2 points
    I joined earlier this Fall and posed a few questions. I wanted to thank those that responded and helped with my first guitar. Figured if I was going to make one, I would make two. One is a gift to my instructor.
  34. 2 points
    So at this point, with the body and neck built, thats 99% of the work. The rest is hooking stuff up and seeing how she plays, which I've done and heres some pix of where its at today. I'm super happy with the outcome. This will get finished in a traditional tobacco burst once it warms up enough to shoot, but of course I wasnt gonna wait that long to play it! I'm super happy with the playability, even though I havent done the fretwork yet. The tones are exactly what I wanted. the neck pup is classic Strat tone, and the middle and bridg pickups absolutely scream Being a hard tail with a really stiff neck, the sustain is fantastic. The guitar just "thrums" end to end when you strum a chord I will update this thread again when I shoot the finish, and again once I've sanded, buffed, and wrapped it up Also note the neck plate. I had a few of these made up with the same phoenix that I used on the fretboard of my phoenix build. I'm making this part of my logo. the headstock will feature the same "Addict" logo in Fender=style font that I used on my previous Strat build. This pic here is from my last build to show the headstock logo... and this is where this current build stands right now...
  35. 2 points
    Next was locating the control cavity and routing it along with the knob and switch holes. Then I clamped the guitar on edge and drilled the jack access and cover recess. I set up for screws and magnets in the cover, but for some reason the attraction didn't feel as strong as it did when I used this system in my last build, the electric mandolin, so I ended up swapping the screws out for magnets in the cavity as well. It is starting to look rather guitarish. SR
  36. 2 points
    If you have to use the tape round the drill bit method as a depth guide, leave a flap of tape sticking out. You'll find this will clear the waste away from the hole so you can see when to stop a little easier
  37. 2 points
    I'm finally getting around to posting some of the new stuff I've tried over the last few months. Looking over my pictures, I have become embarrassingly complacent in my documentation. Oh well, here is what I did keep track of. Back in November Lagunitas came out with this (that) year's version of Born Yesterday Pale Ale. Pale ale my ass--the hops in this stuff grabs you by the nose as soon as you open the bottle and tastes better than it smells. Damn good stuff! From local brewery, 8th Wonder, Rocket Fuel, a rather low test Vietnamese coffee porter that carries off that taste quite well. From Jester King in Austin, Commercial Suicide, farmhouse mild. Jester King gets a lot of accolades, so I decided to try one. The specialize in farmhouse ales and wild yeast and fruit additives....none of which I particularly care for, but I wanted to at least see what they are talking about. It comes in a big bottle and the first glass wasn't too bad--mildly tart, mildly tasty. Second glass not quite as good and the third went down the drain. Looks like this will be a one glass only if ever beer for me. Burial's Griddle Imperial Espresso Stout. Delicious coffee aroma fills the room with the popping of the tab. May be the best stout I've ever had. Founders Sumatra Mountain Imperial brown ale brewed with Sumatra coffee....which is my favorite coffee these days. Good stuff. Hopitoulas from NOLA brewery. I had this a couple blocks away from the brewery the last time I was in New Orleans. Good, but not as good as I remembered. Perhaps the surroundings played a bit in that. It seemed maltier in my back yard. From Athens, Creature Comforts Duende. Absolutely delicious DIPA. Everything I have been fortunate enough to try from this brewery, has been great. This is fruity, citrus laden and aromatic. Dust Bunny Hazy IPA from Monday Night in Atlanta. More citrus fruity pungent goodness. House Brew coffee stout out of Kansas City. Good solid stout, nice coffee notes, nothing to go out of your way for. Creature Comforts Get Comfortable IPA. Also delicious. Juicy citrus with a nice tang at the end. Bells Expedition Russian Imperial Stout. This stuff is jet black and thick and slick. Good stuff....but not my favorite. I'd prefer to exchange the dark fruit for coffee. Perhaps the "sipping whiskey" of stouts. From Austin, Buckethead IPA. Though it does not make the claim, this is a big ol' double at 8.9% abv. I liked it. It reminded me of Founders Centennial with more alcohol. There are a lot of holes in this accounting. Mayhap I should revisit some just for documentary accuracy. SR
  38. 2 points
    Here is how this guitar will be assembled:
  39. 2 points
    Scott is king of the chip savers
  40. 2 points
    rarely has Mrs Natch complained, but I think I have experienced a case of "pre-mature congratulation" (where is the damn rim shot emoji when you need it)
  41. 2 points
    Congratulations on the GOTY 2017 win!
  42. 2 points
    Seriously though, I'm thinking solid burst on this. Fresh canvas and something I've not done in a while
  43. 2 points
    The resurrection of the "Pinky Dinky"... Part 2 Unclamped this morning and rough shaped on the bandsaw before getting to work with my 12" long sanding block. Levelled the new wood flush with the paintwork before going at the whole thing (front and back) to remove the best part of the original blue and pink finish. More or less ready for sealing and refinishing now, but that will have to wait a couple of days now...
  44. 2 points
    I have the pattern mounted and the parting lines defined. apparently, Plastilina Modeling clay comes vanilla scented -and 24 hours later, my hands still smell like vanilla.
  45. 2 points
    Huh. It occurs to me that while I did finish carving my logo in the volute, I did not take a picture of it. Note to self: shoot the damn volute next weekend! I did route a neck pocket. I used this set up to set the depth of the pocket. The thickness of the top plus the height of the bridge to the lowest saddle setting is one inch. I didn't expect the tenon to be quite this flush with the body surface with the neck set to the correct depth...but hey--that makes less work cleaning it up. I make a simple pattern out of three pieces of clear polycarb, and transfer it to the top. SR
  46. 2 points
    On to something else now... Leopardwood top sanded to 80 grit will be paired up with the Leopardwood/Pale Moon Ebony neck recently posted... Also to be finished in Tru-Oil
  47. 2 points
    Tru-Oil can be be leveled and polished like lacquer. SR
  48. 2 points
    OK Finished Before the obligatory finished shots, a reminder of the two sister builds. The shape is a 6-string electric version of the lightweight piccolo bass I made last year for our band's bassist, Pete: The timbers, on the other hand, were the same as used on Tim's Alemicesque build completed a few months ago: And here is the one I've just finished : It's worked out a touch heavier than planned - it's just under 6lbs. Replacing the brass knobs with wooden ones will get it down to 5 3/4 lbs although the target was 5 1/2 lbs. BUT - it balances great, it plays really nicely and it sounds just how I'd hoped As this one is for me - I'm a happy chappy Did the Osmo gloss work? Not really. Once I'm bored with playing it, I'll strip it down and do my normal poyurethane varnish. It isn't the Osmo's fault - this way of applying it is NOT what it was designed for. The Osmo satin works fantastically well (and that is what is on the neck), but the gloss is probably one abuse too far. Anyway, the rest of the obligatory photos : By the way - if you're wondering what the extra strap button is doing on the back - that is part of my personal adjustments to carry on battling with the arthritis in my hands - it pulls the guitar a tad more vertical making it easier on the fretting wrist As always, folks, many thanks for the stupendous support - moral and educational - all the way through the build progress
  49. 2 points
    I want to show you all one of my favorite jigs in action. I built this planer table when I had a 5-piece neck blank that was twisted. Even if I had a planer (not yet), it wouldn't fix a twist. Here is my glued body blank ready to be leveled to the right thickness (1.5 inches in this case). I shim one corner with layers of masking tape until the blank lays flat without rocking. Now I just tape the blank in place to keep it from sliding. I set the router depth to the lowest spot on the top of the blank and pass the router back and forth over the whole surface until I have removed a thin layer of wood off the entire top surface. Then I flip the blank over and the bottom lays completely flat. I tape it down and remove thin slices until the blank is at the desired thickness.
  50. 2 points
    Managed to get a quite decent photo of the glow effect on this one.