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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/26/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
  2. 5 points
    The weather and time finally cooperated enough for some glamour shots. SR
  3. 4 points
  4. 4 points
  5. 4 points
    so the last week and a half - kind of stalled up at the binding process... on my rosewood binding... I've actually got it bent around the entire guitar now, but I need to build some forms to apply pressure while i glue it up so... here's a shot of how it started: here's one of the pieces bent around the body: had my set neck entirely bound with white binding twice. Once I applied my roundover... it got so thin that the line between body and binding was blurry so I stripped it back and tried it again via scraper and file... but didn't like that either so I pulled it all and have decided I'm going to try something different - leaving it square but offset a little bit from the roundover. Here's an earlier shot of the guitar with binding before I did the roundover: here is a mock up of what it's going to look like when I rebind it: To do this I'm going to have to dye the body first. I can't have ca glue preventing dye... and once the binding is on I won't be able to do any sanding near it. If a little glue seeps out onto the body after it's dyed - it'll be fine as it will just darken it a hair and be a little 'shiny'. cut my control holes: planed down some mahog for my cavity covers: here they are rough cut: and here they are installed - haven't sanded them flush yet... got my tuners installed, got my cavities covered in shielding paint, and my trem mounted... did my mop logo on the set neck: lots to do yet... here is my todo list: bolt: shielding paint on the control cavity, make forms for glueing binding and glue up binding, need a new nut... the bone nut just looks bad to me, after binding is installed need to roundover the top then cut the belly relief, install the trem claw, drill top jack, drill strap locks, finish sand the fretboard add frets and level, dye everything brown (note to self hit the truss cavity) and sand it back, add brown grain filler, hit it with some tru oil, then tape off and finish in champagne frost, print out the logo and add white/clear it, build a preamp, install electronics! set neck: shielding paint the control cavity, add an angle piece to back of headstock (long story), dye the fretboard (nts hit the truss cavity), make faux truss cover and add binding, tape off body and dye it, bend the binding and carefully install it (note to self break one edge!), install trem claw, drill top jack, drill strap locks, install frets and level, hit everything with true oil, build preamp, install electronics!
  6. 3 points
    Started this a week ago. Been going well but had slight bit of bleed through on edge. Oh well still looks OK to me. Kind of a tele aerodyne style body with curved top and back. Flamed maple top and poplar back, which will be done in a white wash effect.
  7. 3 points
    got some color on... finally got my binding right:
  8. 3 points
    I don’t think I’ve ever had a guitar with stainless steel frets, so we will see what this one is like! I think you’re right re discolouration if the wood, I remember the plank of maple I used for the blue dc and the V, it had a green/brown streak down one side, which on close inspection looks like what I can see from the pickup route, in which case it should take stain and hide the worst of it. Todays progress then.. only had an hour after getting the baby down. Started off by putting -2° into the neck tenon. After bandsawing off the excess, I used my little block plane and I’m glad I stopped to check when I did because that angle went in a lot quicker than I anticipated. That’s a nickel Schaller Signum I’m using, the posts are recessed into the bridge so it can sit flush on the body. Next up I drilled machine head holes, I still need to shape the headstock and do a logo inlay. Planning to use abalone style celluloid because I haven’t been able to fine green abalone large enough. Then I got all the holes for switches and pots drilled. I had to go at it quite heavily with a forstner bit to make the cap thin enough, but anything to reduce weight
  9. 3 points
    Dedicated. Committed. Sore. SR
  10. 3 points
  11. 3 points
    Long time since last! But the mandolin is finally done! I kind of forgot to update this thread as been busy with my life outside the internet's! It took longer than expected, but I'm very pleased with the results. Here below you can find some photos of the instrument and a video of me first time ever really playing a mandolimandolin.
  12. 3 points
  13. 2 points
    I've discovered the joys of making flavored "moonshine". I mean, it's basically just flavoring up and diluting Everclear, but it's fun. I made some Apple Pie stuff from a recipe online, but it was highly flawed so I adapted it. It'll be a week or so before I can try it because it needs to sit. Anyway, I got to thinking and I really don't like apples so I thought I'd gove a shot at attempting to make flavors I myself would like. So what would that be? Pumpkin pie, blueberry cobbler, pear pie, salted caramel, cherry pie, etc. I'll work on one at a time until I get it right, then share the recipe in the beer thread.
  14. 2 points
    You ought to have seen it before...shades of Ghostbusters???
  15. 2 points
    Finished this prototype bridge piece. The first hole is for a lock bolt and the second is for a small height adjustable saddle. The hole on the front is for the intonation adjustment screw. The plan is to make 7 of these and anodize them black. The string goes through here. This key way will keep the bridge piece aligned properly. The idea behind this bridge is to have a more comfortable and attractive bridge while maintaining full adjustability.
  16. 2 points
    "Rose" by Shiver Guitar www.shiverguitar.com Body - Ash Neck - Hard Maple Fingerboard - Tanganica Frisè Nut - Bone & Brass Tailpiece - Sapeli Pick Up - Gibson 496 R Paint - Oil Varnish Color: Mimiosa Natural Yellow
  17. 2 points
    Well observed sir. The blank is about 20mm wider than required and one side looked a bit more quarter sawn than the other so I moved everything over a bit. got the neck and headstock shape roughed out this eve then routed the taper, the glue up for the cap was good and I really like the look of ebony on Ovangkol, I was contemplating going for flamed maple on the headstock and staining to match the body but I’m glad I’m matching the fretboard. Neck fits in the tenon after a bit of fettling with a scraper, it’s a very tight fit but I don’t want to fettle any more until I’ve routed the pickup cavity. I’ve also got to plane a break angle into the top, which I’ll do once I’ve got the fretboard on.
  18. 2 points
    I just discovered Larry Coryell and my head is literally exploding.
  19. 2 points
    This is my second full build from a couple of years back, a neck-thru LP-ish silhouette - Call her "El Pish", maybe? - with a radiused top built in the premises of our local adult education centre. They run a guitar building course on Saturdays - what a way to forget the events of the previous week at work! - under the tuition of master luthier Veijo Rautia. He's got a bunch of templates for us to use for drawing the outlines to be cut with the band saw, as well as a pile of blueprints to check the measurements. This one has the common LP outlines and the shape and placing of the electrickery cavities but the headstock was designed using a PRS template borrowed from a fellow builder for a straighter string pull. As you see, the moustache is still there... The neck is of maple and walnut, the wings of are of roasted alder with a nogal top. The fretboard is of rosewood, 24,75 with a 12" radius. To prove that "tonewood" can be bought in most imaginary places, the alder is from the sauna building department of a nationwide hardware store and the nogal and merbau are from the outlet shop of a parquet factory. The hardware is from China, a pair of humbucker sized P90's for pickups. The pickup rings have been sanded to make them look more "organic" to match the oiled wood. The oil used was Osmocolor clear several coats slurred with ~1500 grit abrasive mat. It weighs 3.9 kg.
  20. 2 points
    Mike has it right. If it's glued in it's a set neck. SR
  21. 2 points
    And this is how she looks like at the moment
  22. 2 points
    Back at class, I hand-reamed the tuner holes to fit the odd-sized ferrules (8.75mm or thereabouts?!) I then had time to fit half a dozen frets. Hammered in, a dab of CA at either end, then clamped in the class' Stewmac fret press There's a few weeks' break from classes now. I might get a few minutes of fettling at home, but I've really got to crack on with the engine strip & rebuild to keep Mrs Norris happy
  23. 2 points
    Being sore the next day is the best part. that's how you know you did something worth doing.....
  24. 2 points
    so-my life gets in the way more often than I care for- but I finally managed to sneak some time in. first up- build the handle to the waist clamp screw-scraps of mahogany, pine dowel (or whatever wood), a left over bolt, nut and washers from a swing set I dismantled from our old house (15 years ago). handle done i bought this center finding ruler thingy years ago at a joanns fabrics whilst shopping with Mrs Natch. it was in the sewing/quilting whatever the hell its called area of that store. well worth the $5 it cost. drilled, chiseled out and then made sure the threaded rod coupler that sits in the upper part of the jig would allow the threaded rod to travel (mostly) perpendicular to the face of the plywood in which it sits. getting that "perpendicular" was pain in the arse. starting to finally look like a jig. and yes- the jig is a bit tall at the moment- by design. Once I have the waist caul complete I will know exactly how much to trim from the sides of the jig. If my "architectural" to scale design are off-and I cut too short- I would have to recut the sides- so-better to trim a few inches off each side vs wasting that much plywood
  25. 2 points
    Inspired by @ScottR I went through the grits (Slight knot flaw either side of the 15th btw) It will be left raw with just a wipe of lemon oil