Jump to content

Entry for October 2018's Guitar Of The Month is open!
ENTER HERE!

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/23/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Just a different shot showing off the shape of the top. Very minor ripples and orange peel remain at this point and should wet sand flat with minimal effort. When shooting, I give the last build coats a full day to harden and then sand them flat using my random orbital sander and a 600 grit sanding disk. This literally takes maybe 5 minutes. Then shoot a final coat of clear thats thinned a lot so that it flows out nice and flat, and completely fills the scratches left by the 600 grit sanding. This 5 minutes of work at this stage saves hours of wet sanding in a month since I've already removed 98% of the orange peel. Also, I decided to finish the back and sides with a satin rather than the entire guitar being high gloss. the gloss will remain on the tops of the body and headstock.
  2. 3 points
    Loads to do before it's finished but I reckon you can't tell if the bridge is right unless you string it up! So here it is - not finished but strung up: And...it sounds fantastic
  3. 2 points
    Be careful sanding back poly. If you go through a coat it may leave witness lines that will remain visible under subsequent coats. Nitro is a little more forgiving because the coats blend together rather than being in distinct layers
  4. 2 points
    Plywood is layers of wood glued together. What we build are pieces of wood glued together...often in layers. Not so different--except our layers are much more expensive. SR
  5. 2 points
    By "top coat" I simply mean whatever you use as your final finish. In the case of this guitar I used aniline dyes for color on the wood, then simtec sanding sealer to seal it in, followed by toner in the form of sprayed on nitro tinted with medium brown, and finally just clear nitro. So the simtec is my sealer, the tinted nitro is my base coat, and the clear nitro is my top coat. I'm not very familiar with polyurethane coatings, but I believe they can (should) be wet sanded just like nitro, to remove orange peel, ripples, scratches, etc. I'm about 99% sure that you would not be able to shoot nitro on top of poly even if you had access to it. Different coatings can react badly with each other, or just not adhere well to each other and end up delaminating. If its not a catalyzed coating like 2K, (im assuming yours is wipe on or brush on) you should be able to apply more after wet sanding it, however it may be too viscous to settle out flat and leave brush marks, etc. I thin my final coat significantly so that it flows out nice and flat, I dont know if your product can be thinned or what it should be thinned with. You should be able to get all that information, if not from the label, then from google searches or contact the manufacturer, or look on their website. If your poly is thick enough to sand flat without sanding through to the wood, you probably dont actually need anything else. I cant say if 7 coats is thick enough yet or not. Its hard to say without knowing anything about your particular product. In my case I used 6 coats of Mohawk nitro. When I was using Behlen nitro I did 10 or 12 coats because Mohawk has a higher content of solids than Behlen, and builds faster and so requires less coats to achieve the same thickness. I've seen people achieve awesome finishes with brushed on poly, so you are probably going to be fine. Just do some research in places like this and other guitar building forums and ask questions about your specific product. I can almost guarantee there's people out there that can speak with authority about your particular type of coating and give you good advice.
  6. 2 points
    Haven't had much time recently to devote to forum attendance and guitar building in general, but I have to say.... ...the rosette obviously makes all the difference to the tone... ...or, very nicely done Mr Jr So, watcha making next?
  7. 2 points
    update 10/1/18 did a test fit of my pickups... pretty hard to put in /take out but... works! did my neck binding and my headstock binding did the roundover on the back and the belly cut
  8. 2 points
    I had a bit of input on that radius jig design, plus I added that a future revision could do with catering for wider boards. It's fantastic as it is though. Pricy, but delivers.
  9. 2 points
    While visiting my kids in Hawaii, I got to visit Daughter#2's workplace, and borrowed a few chairs. I asked Higgins if I could borrow Robin's car, but it didn't happen ... maybe next time
  10. 2 points
    I contacted @bokchoi77 to obtain permission to hack this thread. Hack in that I would post the measurements of the radius jig I used. I have had 3 people in the last couple months message me about the turner one model I did- and I have pointed the last couple folks in the past weeks to watch this thread as bokchoi77 was in progress of making one. I have gotten a lot of questions about this and that- the radius jig being one of them. Mine is simply an oversize fretboard radius jig of sorts- made completely out of whatever the hell I had laying around at the time (as the pictures tell- all offcuts of mdf I had laying around, I hardly bothered cleaning some of them up). All the mdf is 3/4" (1.9 cm) thick. it is glued and screwed with inch and a half screws and I pre-drilled the holes. The long sides (rails) are 3ft (91.5 cm) and the router base/one of the spacers are one foot (30.5cm) wide. The radius on the rails is 25 1/8 ". I cut/sanded both rails at the same time. The router base is centered at the 1.5 ft mark- ie- the center of the rail- the highest point in the arch. The bottom of the router base that faces the guitar body is 1/4" up from that arch-so- seeing that the mdf is 3/4" thick- that puts the base of the router at a full one inch above the radius. I would lower my router bit down so final cut the bottom of the router blade was like 1/8" or so below the rails- and it put a 25" radius on the front and back of the guitar body. - but I started with it much higher so only the outside of the guitar body were nipped first- slowly lowering it- typically 1/16" at a time (maybe 1/8"- its been so long I cant honestly remember if 1/8" was too much material to cut at once) The guitar body was mounted on the bottom side of my myka neck angle jig- which is 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood glued together- the measurement of that is 2ft (61cm) wide by 29.5 inch long (75cm). I screwed 3/4" pvc pipe along the length for the rails to ride against. A single screw (3 inch I think) held the body down- drilled in the center of the pickup hole and small pieces of wood that were screwed into the base to hold the body centered to the jig. That screw channel would later be fitted with the screw that went from the back of the guitar into the rotating pickup housing. I wont say this is the most effective/efficient way to do the radius- I have seen interviews with Rick Turner where he said he did the first few on a belt sander and winged it. (they do them now with a planer blade that has the 25" radius cut in it.) it took me a while to do this- lowering the router a little bit each pass- but this jig is hefty- and I felt very safe using it due to the weight and that I had my hands on the router thru the whole motion- and nothing was going to fling out at high rate of speed/etc. but it cleaned up in a matter of seconds with a sander and it sure was fun.
  11. 1 point
    Beautiful work! I hope you're going to bring that to the next bass bash for me to have a go...
  12. 1 point
    just some random guitar pics... this one is a hamer steve stevens I bought when I was 14. It was in the northridge quake (95?) sitting in front of a laney half stack... the quake launched the head of the stack onto the head of this guitar! Had repaired it then but didn't want to break it the rest of the way off... 10 years later it finally broke again... popped her all the way off, scraped the old glue off, glued it back up and added a mahog overlay for strength... carruthers tele. traded on cl for it. had some red overspray that seeped into the laquer so stripped it and did a refin with true oil... family photo below is a 'dillion' that I bought on cl for $25. It had been shot 3 times with a .22. You can see the shots bottom/middle. filled the holes with epoxy and did a paint job, added hot rodded buckers and it's been a fav ever since! the mv shelter for abused guitars does accept donations (imagine music "arms of an angel")
  13. 1 point
    That’s a very tasteful collection, a bit of bling but nothing too over the top. Classy! I have a Mexican Strat that has a massacred body that is the result of me trying to take off the thick poly...I tried to burn it off years ago I may take the neck off it to use in a current Tele build...haven’t decided yet.
  14. 1 point
    Very nice, congratulations!!! Nice crisp sound, and good playing too!
  15. 1 point
    I'm sure that you're not the only person in this boat, Mike so perhaps seeking advice from others who have fallen through the cracks might help. I wouldn't call it dirty laundry as such....more that the US healthcare system is grossly weighted against you, and that speaking out about it is something more people need to do to enact change. It's terrible on so many levels, especially given how affluent the US is as a country yet still doesn't provide social healthcare yet.
  16. 1 point
    Where was I? Oh, yeah ...Using the table saw that a buddy gifted me, I made a more proper sanding beam box ... which works great. When I super glued the black binder on, a few fret slots sucked up the CA, and when I was cleaning it out, chipped some of the ebony. Fortunately, it fixed up pretty nicely. Frets soon!
  17. 1 point
    To shape the underside of the bridge, I used the old 'engineers blue' method, but using chalk: First put masking tape on the body and chalked it up, then rubbed the bridge on the area: Then scraped off where the chalk was - the 'high spots'. Then repeated: And repeated again and again until the fit was good: For the actual fitting of the bridge, I used the Stewmac calculator to ensure the bridge was in exactly the right place: ...before I scored round it and scraped off the varnish under the bridge And then, using a couple of the pegs drilled through to prevent it floating out of position glued it using my bridge clam and my home-made bridge wings clamp:
  18. 1 point
    Hi All, hope I'm not too late for this month (1 day to go here in Aus!) My entry is my double humbucker tele shaped build, I'm calling it Fat Myrtle as she weighs in at 4.3 Kilos! Specs: Body - Blackheart Sassafras top with Tasmanian Myrtle back. Neck - Tas Oak neck with a Merbau freboard Frets - Jumbo extra hard Pickups - Two gretsch style humbuckers Wiring - Les paul standard wiring with push pull pots on the tones to flip the humbuckers to parallel mode. Hardware - Gold hardware, black pickup rings. Finished in Polyurethane Link to build thread Thanks for looking, and good luck to other entrants.
  19. 1 point
    That is the stuff. One caveat. Its very sticky and overspray that might float around will land on stuff and stick, including yourself. Nitro is easy because by the time the teeny particles land on things its already dried, and brushes right off like dust. Not this stuff. Its catalyzed, so it hardens in its own time depending on how much catalyst you add. So, the rule of thumb when I spray it is to cover anything in my shop with sheets or drop cloths.
  20. 1 point
    OK, inlays. these are the same birds I used for my first or second build thread here on projectguitar. I love them, but ended up selling that guitar so I needed to do another one. Carve out the outlines with a scalpel Used a trick I learned right here on project guitar to make the lines easier to spot. Chalk routed the pockets out... installed MOP side dots Starting to look like a guitar
  21. 1 point
    Brilliant job of book matching.sir. And you know you have a clean build going when permission is given to shoot it on the dining room table. SR
  22. 1 point
    Ok so I found some time to wire this one up today, I went with the wiring as I posted above, and I'm pleased with it, when running the coils 'split' (Actually Parallel but I refer to it as split for some reason!) It has quite a Strat style tone to it, and you can do some interesting thing mixing in split and unsplit etc. Anyhow I made a quick recording. The first one is a similar progression running through Neck -> Neck Split -> Bridge - Bridge Split -> Neck + Bridge -> Neck + Bridge both split -> Neck + Bridge neck split -> Neck + Bridge bridge split. And this is plugging it into a song I was working on a while back, just a small section. I played both guitar parts on this guitar. Hopefully the clips work ok!
  23. 1 point
    Thanks so much for the detailed reply! I will check out the Bootstrap pickups. Funny you should mention the magnets on the bottom of cheap pickups, I have a really cheap Strat copy that has those and it sounds dull and lifeless. As for the Hot Rails, I have a Kent Armstrong one in a Mexican Strat and it sounds very good, including with a clean sound; well articulated. I may use it in a project.
  24. 1 point
    Replaced my power steering line today. That was way easier than I expected. Went through my owner's manual and turns out the guy at I' Reilly was full of shit. Some Dodge vehicles do actually call for ATF4 in the power steering, but mine specifically says power steering fluid and also specifically says "do not use automatic transmission fluid". So no drain and refill. Apparently the backwoods hick contingent in Elgin believes it's all the same, but ATF4 is cheaper and easier to buy in quantity.
  25. 1 point
    You might quit drinking when you realise how shitty your whiskey is when that happens....?
×