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  1. 4 points
    This weekend, although it's not yet finished and I've got a bit of work to do on it, including a truss rod cover, I need to brace the back plate as it's only 3mm thick and held in with magents and seal the top and finish. I wired it up and took it to the studio for it's maiden shred. Totally in love with it, sustains forever, the HFS in the bridge is brutal but it works really will with the big vintage sound from the 57/08 in the neck. I'm going to try and go for a chrome/brass combo to compliment the bridge, I need to find some brass washers for the machine heads, brass nuts for the mini toggles and brass pickup screws, these are gold and don't really work. I'm working on testers for the finish at the moment, I'll probably give it a couple of weeks before I strip it down and finish, I'd like to get to know her better first
  2. 3 points
    For my next build, I'm going to be making my friend and band-mate, Ollie, a flying V. There are a few things on this one I've never done before, so it should prove to be a bit of a challenge; I've never made a V, never made a neckthrough and never tapered the laminates on any of my previous necks. So I started off with a crude drawing, then moved on to a scaled plan. He very specifically want's the same neck as his PRS custom 24, which makes things a bit awkward. I have plans for a 67' Flying V but I can't really use them, so I started drawing around my CU24 neck template, extended the neck taper, then traced the body from the 67' marked out some key fret positions on the 25" scale neck and positioned tracing paper accordingly to transfer the body shape onto my plan. Then with an outline I could figure out how the laminates would taper and what sizes they needed to be. It's going to be a 3-piece neck, made from 3 25mm strips of American black walnut separated with maple veneers. The centre strips will be tapered from 14mm at the nut to 21mm at the bridge which should follow the taper of the shape of the neck once routed. Then I'll carry on the taper from the tip of the headstock to the base, so the overall taper will be 13.5mm to 22mm in the middle piece. I'm a little bit apprehensive about making the taper, I think with the tools I have, my only option is to draw the lines on the piece and use a feather edge and a router. I'll glue on ears and body wings, again seperated by maple veneer, I'm tempted to make up the body wings from some more laminates of walnut and maple so the whole thing is fanned stripes from behind, which might look cool, a lot more work though! It might depend on the price of walnut for the wings, I'm struggling to find walnut planks thick enough to make the body with in the UK. This one is going to have a hardtail bridge, probably a Grainger or a Schaller roller bridge so I shouldn't have to worry about a break angle, but it is going to have a flamed maple top so I will need to thickness the body part of the neckthrough. Anyway, we're off to cut some walnut Cheers Ash
  3. 3 points
    A couple more EXP projects. Ziricote and a cool colored quilted maple.
  4. 3 points
    So It's all wired up and functioning. This is usually the time where I wish I didn't spend so much time building because my practicing suffers. Here is what it looks like with it all setup. I still have to finish my back cover plate but other than that I'll call this one done. Cheers Peter.
  5. 2 points
    Hi Guys, Soooooo, besides my bronze guitar that i am building i also have another smaller project that i'm working on. I had this old stagg for some time and the pickguard used to be plastic, but then i decided to make a wooden pickguard. this was some 2 years ago i think. But now i decided to play with some plastiline and try to make some kind of little monster like a relief The final result wil (like always) be a bronz pickguard(very thin) This was the first layout, but i soon realised i had to go much lower in depth because the strings have to go over this piece. Here you can see i decided to start all over again. I took the big chunck of clay and started sculpting much lower then before. I added some skulls and the claw of the demon. Between this picture and the previous you can see i changed the horns because i wasn't happy with how they looked. At this point i decided i couldn't finish it more in plastiline. I will make a mold onto this and then make a wax copy where i can smooth and finish all the little details. (i want to add some veins on the claw and finish the nails and teeth properly) I don't know what happend but i wouldn't want to touch that white stuff....;) Just to be clear; this is the first silicone layer applied onto the surface
  6. 2 points
    so today I broke wood on my next build(s). Decided I couldn't decide so doing two. One 25.5" sl 12" radius and one 25" sl no radius. I'm calling them the "Sweet Spot Blonde" and the "Sweet Spot Blue". Here are my objectives for this(these) builds: 1) 4 pickup strat - why? A.) more 2/4 position, B.) Tele middle position sounds C.) hi ouput vs lo output pickups but better combining 2) better neck access I'm going to do one w a bolt on with ferrules instead of plate and the other with a long tenon and sculpted set neck 3) heel adjust via spoke wheel on both, the 3x3 with have 14degree headstock angle 4) solidbody/semi-hollow hybrid. per my design doc below I'm going to have the bridge two pickups in a solid block and the neck two pickups in a hollow chamber. Hoping to get a high gain bridge sound that doesn't feedback, but the fat 'semi-hollow' sound in the neck. Neck two pickups will be mounted directly to the neck (for the set neck version) 5) radius top - top will be bent on a 30" radius... edges will still have a roundover and two layers of binding staggered. One will be rosewood binding, the other white plastic. 6) "sweet spot" wiring: will do my std 3 way plus 6 position rotary wiring but going to re-work it to get more variation in the inside-coil vs outside coils modes. Plan to try to mix series and parallel there. Both will have a 3-way, master volume, rotary, and push-pull mid boost. no tone (I never use it anyway). Here are the concept drawings... some details: my templates: today I cut two big chunks of mahog out of my stash, planed them, rough cut them to shape, and weighed them... ===========update 1/27/19 ============== well my GUITAR body is on a diet anyway! ==========UPDATE 01/31/2019========== got both my bodys fully hogged out, belly cut 'steps' in... both right at 3lbs. ========== UPDATE: 02/03/2019 ========== feel like I got a lot done this weekend anyway! cut my rear trem cavity and my battery store... haven't bought material for covers yet so may have to alter the depth later but figured I might as well get them in there. also started the work for my radius jig this weekend... might have been better ways to do it as this felt like a lot of work but for better or worse here's how I approached; started off with a 31.5" radius. I'm using poplar here and if I had to do over I'd have chosen oak or something a bit more rigid. after I got one rail cut out i trimmed it up nice and used it as the template for another 3 rails. Was planning on doubling up the rails to keep them from bending easily at the center. at top center here you can see the sled I made to ride the rails. Then I switched over to working on my neck pocket templates. since the one neck will have a 'paddle' it adds a little complexity to determining if it is on the body straight. I overcame this by adding a board at the back to 'raise up' my centerline. after precision 'jacking' with the clamps and loosening/tightening screws, etc (hehe)... I arrived at a fit that is "tighter than a fish's turd cutter" to quote Larry the cable guy. and the centerline is spot on: then routered out my pocket for the paddle neck: ==========update 02/04/2019 ========== so, got my radius jig somewhat setup. need to fine tune it a bit... trim off the ends, add some teflon spacers from a cutting board to my router mount so it won't rock, and trim off just a hair from the inside of it so it slides a little bit easier. I want a little bit of resistance so I decided to forgo the bearings. the convex version is sitting on my rails with approx 1.75" of room I could move downward, and the sled is sitting 2.25 high. this is about perfect as the blade needs to stick out 1/2" from the bottom to achieve a 30" radius. adjusting this thing is sort of a pain and since the concave version sits a hair low... think I'll probably just mount a couple of 2x4s to raise the body up instead. have enough clearance to do 22" piece so perfect for a body. a bit tired so this is as far as we go tonight. ========== update 02/06/2019 ========== last night I roughed out my two necks... learned why birdseye is often called 'rock maple' (it's not because it's meant for rock n roll). long story long I probably ruined a fairly new timber wolf blade with a kink as I tried to back out of a cut and it was bound (saw was off). my wood grain dictated to me that the bolt version is going to be a rev headstock... I had to agree. flamed maple piece isn't looking so bad either. really big wide flames in this so can't wait to see it planed down. almost looks like quilt when you catch it at the right angle. lots of little tan flecks on this piece so figured I try out a neck in it. cut a small piece of birdseye for the bolt version. neck pickups will mount to this and spring claw will screw into it. need to remove the cove edge so it sits flush will likely do that next. ========== update 02/17/19 ========== "like all the bowling alleys had been destroyed... sos I spent most my time looking for beer". and that would explain why all I have to show for the last two weeks is the following... here's how I did my neck pocket for the bolt on w 7" radius at heel: 1 rough cut around neck pocket leaving approx 1/8" gap, cover neck template with masking tape... 2 clamp everything down and ensure it is on center... 3 fill 1/8" gap with epoxy... 4 break the pieces apart - later I will use this as a guide to make a 3/4" template. same process for my trem rout cover... made some truss rod templates: finished neck pockets: kept checking my birdseye and it was stable over the last two weeks (since I rough cut it) so I planed it down and it's ready for final shape cut. made a template for my gretsch inlays... will lay this at an angle on the fretboard to keep the inlay flat on the radius and then dremel out the areas... got my set neck stock planed down and sanded... installed my truss rod in the bolt version. used a bull nose 1/4 in combo with a normal 1/4 bit so that the bottom of the channel is mostly radiused except for the parts where the truss requires a flat bottom. sharpened my chisel and cut some corners... voilla, fits like a glove. and that's all I got in me today! man am I beat!
  7. 2 points
  8. 2 points
    Refining. Like the idea of a small star cluster at the 12th. The crown works as a badge at the head, just not sure if it's required or is excess. This isn't a Queen tribute guitar, but I don't hate the idea. That F-hole thing has got the vibe, but isn't the right thing yet. I'll keep poking.
  9. 2 points
    Building one day a week is a challenge. Im finding ways to make it happen though! Here are some projects currently in the works.
  10. 2 points
    There's a wonderful satisfaction in routing for your pickups and "discovering" your pre-made wiring channels. Probably also an abject horror in routing for your pups and not finding your wiring channels . . . .
  11. 2 points
    Tonight I did a bit of fettling with some fine chisels, then set about the "D" with the Dremel router It looks a bit rough and gappy until you drop the inlays in So with a mixture of about 60% epoxy and 40% ebony dust I glued those baby in That will look nice sanded flat
  12. 2 points
    @mattharris75 suggested or posted this a while back- this alabama brewery is now being distributed in Georgia- straight to ale's "stout at the devil" Oatmeal stout with caramel coffee. Not too sweet- good flavor-7.2%abv wild leap out of lagrange georgia-their alpha abstraction vol 4 featuring denali hops. Almost too sweet for me- but nice funkiness/bitterness/acidity to the brew. 8%abv hellstar dark lager from burial brewing in asheville, nc. This munich dunkle type lager kicks butt. I have not had a beer yet from burial that I didnt enjoy. No other brewery has done that for me. I am not a lager fan either- but this stuff is seriously good. Decent toasty malt that doesnt turn me off like some dark beers that overdo it. 5% wild leap's cold ground coffee stout. pretty decent stout- wish there was a little more coffee in the flavor profile. a fair amount of carbonation - I liked the first one a lot- but after a couple more- its really good- but not upper class stuff that my palate demands I find. (beer snobs rule). 8.8% abv- but at under $10 a sixer- which is relatively cheap for craft brew in my parts- I will say this is a very good value. I would absolutely buy again unless something new/diff caught my eye.
  13. 2 points
    Finally finished! Handed it over to Luke last night. I'm very happy with it as is he, but also glad it's gone to be honest. The pics aren't the best unfortunately, I wanted to take some proper photos, but just ran out of time yesterday. Spec Body: 1 piece carved african mahogany Cap: 2-piece flame maple w/faux binding Control cover: carved flamed maple Neck: Laminated flamed maple and african mahogany Headstock: Ebony w/ flamed maple inlay Fretboard: Ebony with flamed maple trapeze inlays Binding: Ebony + flamed maple Frets: 24 medium jumbo nick-silver Nut: 43mm graphtech tusq Finish: - Top: oiled blue burst - Back/neck: oiled Natural Tuners: Mini Grover Rotomatic 3x3 Bridge: Graphtech Resomax untimatic with tusq saddles and Gotoh tailpiece Pickups: Dimarzio Liquifire bass, SuperDistortion trebble Controls: - Switchcraft 3-way toggle - CTS push-pull volume with treble bleed - CTS push-pull tone, both pickups can be coiltapped individually. - Ebony lampshade control knobs
  14. 2 points
    I spent most of Saturday at a charity poker tournament. I made my contribution to charity without winning, but the day was shot so I got nothing done here. (Manny did get a couple of hours of work on his nose). Today was supposed to warm up, so I was thinking I might get a little touch up work in. I needed to clean up some over sprayed tint on the back. The day started out nice enough- in the 50's but the humidity was 75% or more.Straight up Manny time....then around 3:00 the temp pushed 70 and the humidity got down under 50%. I got to work and scuffed the surface with 400 grit since it had been several weeks since I last sprayed. Then I sprayed some more tint on the back to blend in the over-sprayed area. And decided to tweak the burst on the front as well. And since the spraying was good, I shot a few layers of clear as well. The temp and humidity were prime, but I also learned that it makes a difference to make sure your lacquer is warm too. I mixed some up and put it in the house to warm up.....and then just before spraying I let it warm up a few minutes more in front of a space heater. No blush! SR
  15. 2 points
    Sweet! I'm looking forward to this. And you can look forward to call outs and verbal abuse if you let it go the way of your other unfinished threads/projects. Cheers Bro! BTW, really cool bench. SR
  16. 2 points
    If you can't bow it like a cello, it's too low.
  17. 2 points
    Neck is all glued on and I've got a good joint. I did have to glue in a .25mm veneer down one side. I learnt a lesson here. When I routed the pocket, I had a tight fit, too tight in fact, so I used a scraper to fettle the pocket so I had a snug but not not over tight fit. But that was when I was working out in the cold. When I brought the parts inside, the neck pocket shrunk (became wider), which allowed a tiny bit of lateral play in the pocket. I expect, if I'd left it be instead of scraping at it, it would have been fine, but after sticking the veneer in, everything is fine and id doesn't appear to have affected the centre line - I guess by the time the neck is pressed in, that veneer becomes paper thin. I got to work on my bridge wells last night. These wraparound bridges are a bit more work than tunomatics because the studs sit back from the saddles, needed to measure that offset and drill accordingly, with the PRS adjustable stoptail, the studs sit 5mm behind. I'm working to a fairly shallow break angle for this type of bridge, turned out just under 2ยบ which means my bridge will need to sit flush with the body for the strings to bottom out on the fretboard and give me a bit of adjustment. So I've had to make a recess for the bass of the studs. The bass of the studs is 13mm in diameter and 1.5mm thick, so I started off by drilling a 13mm bit to 1.5mm depth, then I switch to 11mm bit to drill deep enough so the bridge well and the bass of the stud would be level with the top. Then after sorting out the earth wire I started tapping them in, then realised it was 23:30 and the baby was asleep So that will be a job for tonight (but a bit earlier). I'm wishing now that I didn't give my dad his drill press back, drilling these holes is easy with a hand drill, but using a drill press to push the wells in is a lot quieter than banging them in with a brass hammer.
  18. 2 points
    I wasn't too well last week, being shattered from being up half the night with a cough. Better this week, so finally made a start on my first ever inlay. Boy it's awkward trying to score round the inlays. Even with 3M double sided tape it slid around a little and left sticky gunk behind. Luckily that was soon sorted with a spot of white spirit. So, laying out... And then the first rout done... It needs a little fettling with a chisel, but not bad for a first attempt. The "D" might be a little more challenging, but I ran out of time this week to do any more Oh I should mention, I did it with my Dremel, Stewmac router base and a fine end mill bit
  19. 1 point
    great work so far Norris. slow and steady wins the race(at least that is what I tell myself)seriously- even after a couple dozen instruments over a couple dozen years or more-I am constantly having to take a min and rethink stuff all the time. Here is the real kicker -in cleaning my workshop this weekend-I came across 3 jigs I had saved- and I have no freaking idea what the hell they are for. i sorta think I know what one of them is for- but- honestly-not sure and cant even remember what instrument I used it on. So there you go.
  20. 1 point
    Hey guys it's been a while!! I am going to try and start posting more on beer and builds!! Hope everyone has been good. Here is what I am drinking tonight. I stopped at my work's tap room and picked up some Blackberry Farm Brewery Screening Bock. It is really good!!! If anyone comes across BFB beer in there area definitely pick some up!!
  21. 1 point
    something tells me this is going to be a good thread to sticky. one stop shop for how to's on jigs for acoustic. someday for me... for now I will live thru you mr natural. looking fwd to all I'll learn.
  22. 1 point
    Actually I'm not sure. I used the XGP headstock because I was expecting to use an XGP tele neck (top). But now that you mention it, that shape does look a lot like what they put on some of the Nitro III's (middle). In any event, they're both wrong because I just pulled the actual neck out of the box and it turns out I wasn't correctly remembering what I had on hand - it's GFS not XGP and has this mildly aggressive concave shape to it (bottom). Incidentally mistermikev, when I said "some people" had posted good photoshop mockups, I was thinking specifically of your Delta Cloud. That thread was a joy to follow. Thanks for sharing!
  23. 1 point
    Kinda, it has a few coats of oil with steel wool. Then I had a can of Restore a finish out while redoing some speakers. Rubbing that on really added this depth to the color of the Pau Ferro brining out a deeper reddish hue. Then wax coat to seal. It plays so beautifully I don't really want anything else on it other than protection from moisture. My shop is heated and very dry (winter), and it the wood really sucks the oil. I may continue oil and wax until it seems quenched. The Howards Feed n Wax is god stuff with a mix of carnuba, beeswax, mineral and orange oils. edit: I went back and looked at those final pictures, they make it look "dryer" than it is. If you compare to the pictures after I carve the neck on page 4 of this thread you can see the difference of the fresh wood, a pale light brown, and the oiled wood. In person it looks like that oiled wood, a deep chocolate color.
  24. 1 point
    I CNC'd the veneer for the head stock. glued up - and out of the clamps. Time to put the wings on. The nice thing about the V groove as the joint is very stable. I only needed two clamps. Usually I use every clamp I own. I cut close to the line on the bandsaw and sanded even closer with my spindle sander then used my carbide spiral template bit to finish up using the template. Flipped it over and finished up - This is the first time I will get a good look at the wing joint and it looks great. The joint wasted perfect prior to glue up but the pressure from the clamps and the glue seemed to pull everything really nice and tight. I also cut some covers as well. CAD first - I had some left over 3 ply vintage pick guard material and got just enough to get the pickguard and truss rod cover. cut on CNC and tapered with a template on my router table. Next time I think I will use a V bit in my CNC and then not have to make the template. truss rod cover - and a quick mock-up - Cheers Peter.
  25. 1 point
    Thanks! Progress is slowing down a little now that I'm in the middle of finals though... Yeah I had a bit of an incident with a borrowed router I used for my first build, I was routing the neck pickup cavity and the router caught an ripped the whole corner of the fretboard out and a lot of material around it, that was super fun. Learned to use gouges this week, got a cheapy $18 set of gouges on amazon and spent a couple hours sharpening them properly and got to work on the body. The carve isn't perfect but I'm pretty happy with it for my first try, this piece of Alder was very easy and forgiving to work with so that was nice for learning. Also did all the cavities with my drill press and cleaned them up with chisels. Not as clean as using a router but far cleaner and quieter.
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