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Entry for August 2018's Guitar Of The Month contest is open to all!


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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I'm having trouble not posting pics of the top. I thought I was done and went in the house. When I came back out the sun had changed its angle a bit and was doing this. I had to take some more shots. I hope this happens again when I'm done polishing. SR
  2. 4 points
    I avoid the plague, cause it leaves me in a bind. ...carry on...
  3. 3 points
    By the power of a really rubbish hack with Photoshop, a scaled mock-up of the finished bass against other members of its lightweight family: Left to Right: Pete's piccolo bass; my Swift Lite; Jane's Nyhavn Swift; Neil's Swift Lite Bass 5lbs 6oz; 5lbs 12oz; 5lbs 3oz; 6lbs 6oz respectively Delivered it to Neil last night - he's VERY pleased with it
  4. 3 points
    Two favourites - Macassar Ebony and Ziricote - slotted, tapered and now glued to necks...
  5. 2 points
    Name: "The Pic-a-low" Materials: 1 piece black walnut body 1/2" 5A maple burl top and 1/8" headstock overlay black walnut neck gaboon ebony fretboard with maple burl markers Config: 32" scale length with "fat c" profile Hardware: very modest... wilkinson tuners, song il (korean) bridge, no-name pickups w replaced alnico II magnets (didn't have a lot of faith in myself to make this worthy of more expensive gear as this was my first build but will likely replace some things given how moderately well it turned out) Electronics: again very modest... 3 way rotary switch + 3 way toggle wiring for parallel inside vs parallel outside, series inside vs series outside, series vs parallel, master volume, hand built 2 band active preamp with push/pull on/off and bright switch. EDIT - forgot to mention... kinda cool... if you look at the right side f hole... my preamp trimmer is accessible through the f hole. Kinda gimmicky but cute none-the-less! Experience/Background: did some woodworking (lot of sanding!) and solid surface fab as a young man, have built a few things like a desk and a futon... have assembled quite a few guitars from parts, always wanted to build one from scratch and got the (false) confidence from seeing so many skilled builders here making it look sooo easy (it wasn't). Where: built in my garage w jigsaw + drill press + router + palm sander History: I pawned off my first bass guitar - a yamaha motion b - for $75 in 1995 while broke in L.A. Always regretted that. It was a 32" scale bass and as primarily a guitar player, it was perfect for me. 32" scale is very rare to find and generally quite expensive so... in the diy spirit I set out to replace that bass on my own. Picking it up the first time, this neck felt like coming home! Design: used fret-2-find to layout the fretboard, took some p style bass diagrams from the net and scaled it down a few percent, then smoothed it out in photoshop -pretty standard but a bit smaller. Wanted the body to be as light as possible but also wanted to avoid neck dive given the plan of heavier/cheaper tuners so I did some forstner weight relief but kept the f-hole cavities about 3/16 wider than the f-holes themselves. Journey: my build thread here Standing on the shoulders of giants: special thanks to prostheta, curtasia, scottr, norris, andyjr1515, mr natural - if it hadn't been for your advice and encouragement, I'm sure this could have looked like some sort of picaso/dali impression of a bass!
  6. 2 points
    Well, my daughter's swim meets are over, so I think I will have a few hours a week to work. I went to my friend's wood shop to plane down the hemlock, and Pros, I am being safe.
  7. 2 points
    For the box & bracing, I bought a 10" long, 6" wide piece of 7/8" douglas fir. Pine is inexpensive, and I already know it sounds great, so a $20 piece of lumber is definitely the right thing to use on a "learning curve" piece. I'm not worried one bit about the majority of the box construction. I'm a little iffy on doing the cutaway and PROPERLY attaching an electric-style neck onto an acoustic body. My local lumber yard is OK with me going through to find the piece of lumber I want, so I managed to find one that's nearly perfectly quartersawn. For the fretboasrd, I looked through my stack and found one I've been holding on to damn near since I started woodworking. I always intended to use it as a fretboard, but never did. I honestly don't know what species it is. It kinda looks like lightly flamed walnut, but the color is a little off. Anyway, I guess since I've held onto the thing for so long, this is as good a time as any to use it. Time to get re-acquainted with the circular saw jig I made to assist in re-sawing wood for acoustics. Considering how little room there is for error in re-sawing that thin a piece, and how I'm REALLY not good at it, cutting a deep notch into both sides helps me out tremendously. Of course, I fucked up about 1/4 of the piece cuz I haven't done this in over 3 years, but that's why I bought such a big piece. So what was the yield from a 10' x 6" x 7/8" board? A dinky little pile of thin wood and bracing. It's 2 pieces for the sides, 4 each for the front & back, the back bracing, front bracing, bridge block, and center block. The top will NOT have your traditional acoustic bracing. There will be a 7/8" x 3" piece running straight through the middle to reduce vibration and limit feedback. As it will have a TOM/stop bar, the bridge block will likewise need to be substantial enough to hold it in place. As for the kerfing... ...a leftover douglas fir 1x3 will do nicely. I figure the end & neck blocks will also end up being doug fir. So much else is, there's no point in using a traditional tonewood at this stage. Besides, we all know I LOVE kicking luthier tradition and wood-voodoo square in the dick. So there you go. 3 days off and a metric shit-ton of progress that sorely needed to be done. All the molds & forms are done, all the milling is done. When next we meet, I'll be doing the fun bits. Peace, love, and humptiness.
  8. 2 points
    A quick update on what I'm working on right now - left-handed, bound Flame Maple and Ziricote
  9. 2 points
    Back to work. All that's left to do before the actual fun stuff happens is the mold & form for the cutaway and the inside clamps. I cut off a piece of MDF, and if there's enough length left, I'll make another 25" scale neck/fretboard template. The old one has seen better days... So I got a piece all finessed into shape with a compass outline and the disk sander... glued & screwed the other 2 pieces t it... a quick cutout on the bandsaw, a zip through the router table, and we have the bending mold for the cutaway. I tried to shortcut the process for the piece that goes into the clamping form. The shortcut didn't work (shocker), so all I can show you is it in the clamps. At least the new 25" scale template turned out right! The interior spread clamps from LMII... What I started out with, and what I ended up with. The spreaders are just threaded rod, wing nuts, and washers, all from Home Depot. After seeing the final product, it occurs to me that I'll have to make another right side piece of the spreader clamps. There's no room for the cutaway form. There's a chance I COULD get away with just cutting the right half of this one in two, just North of the waist. I gotta do some research.
  10. 2 points
    Here we have the bending mold from LMII and the pieces I cut out. I made the lines about where the holes need to be, then attacked it with a router, basically freehand. It could have turned out a LOT worse. Use the 1st one as a template... lather/rinse/repeat... now we have 4 molds that need to be assembled into one unit. Waste not, want not, right? I'll use the cutoffs from the notches I made to serve as spacers in between the mold pieces. The OCD in me says I need to make a 1" line from the bottom as a guide and line up the center line. Just a line of glue and some trigger clamps set it all in place. Tomorrow, I'll be able to glue the pieces into a mold. Now over to the bending form!!!! The LMII form is a pretty simple system. It shouldn't be too hard to mimic. First, I lined them all up and made the holes for the piece of 3/4" PVC pipe. Because I know me, I labeled them all left or right. After cutting the appropriate notches, we test fit the whole thing before it's glued up. I ended up having to cut up some of the "top" of the mold at the hinge so it opens/closes freely. That's why we test fit. It took me forever to line up the left half to get it into the clamps. It would NOT stop sliding around. I really should have seen that one coming. For the other side, I drilled out some holes and pegged them with a 1/2" dowel rod for alignment. Did that go as planned? Of course not. One of them would NOT come out. So it's a part of the mold now. Oh well. I have a 3-day stint off work, and the temperature is amazing, so there WILL be more updates over the next 2 days.
  11. 2 points
    Your family takes some lovely pics Andy. SR
  12. 2 points
    Thank you sir, that was very kind of you to say. I think every guitar should have a contoured (carved) back, and should be very comfortable to play.
  13. 2 points
    Very nice Scott, it seems that each of your updates takes things up a level. @mattharris75 That's a beautiful starter guitar too, your girls are very lucky!
  14. 2 points
    It's OK, Andy. We're all mature adults around these parts. You don't have to censor yourself when you say words like 'fifty' or 'fatty'. Nice looking ukelele you've got there. Does it do 'When I'm Cleaning Windows'? All ribbing aside, you've excelled yourself once again. Any chance you could make your next instrument suck a bit so the rest of us have a fighting chance?
  15. 2 points
    I have done this on several actual bodies now and it works like a charm! But yes, with my CNC. I've done something SIMILAR without CNC though. I took my template and a 1/2" rabbit bit and made a smaller template. Then used a 1/4" bit following this smaller template to route a channel 1/4"" in from the edge to inlay some cool purfling into. That said, this only worked because I was fairly far inside the body... I'd be skeptical of my skill being able to do this with templates and come out with the body cut exactly on the binding perfectly. Problem is in close spaces the human eye is capable of pickup up on discrepancies of .010"... so unless you get the .060" binding EXACTING, the eye will notice. Chris
  16. 2 points
    No matter what you do in life. Do it always with passion, do it always with love. Almost ready within the starting grid! Scorpionscar
  17. 2 points
    Tackled a couple of jobs that have been worrying me today. As I didn't have a solid plan early on, I didn't route a channel for the pickup switch.... So the only way was the old massive auger bit through the body trick. After practicing a LOT on scrap I got the deflection down to 1-2mm, in practice it turned out a bit more than that, but it worked out fine. Prior to doing this, I drilled out the cavity for the switch so I'd have a nice big target to hit, no tear out which is great. I also got to steam out my first dent after a drill press table incident. Worked just like magic. I grabbed some Ebony grain filler today so I'll hit the body with a slurry and sand back to smooth everything off.
  18. 1 point
    Thanks guys. I have plenty of time to be patient. The lacquer is still curing....shrinking....hardening, however you want to call it. I'm just gently removing layers of orange peel and sanding scratches that were never going to be part of the finished product anyway. I've still got 6 more grits of micromesh and then some buffing compound to go. This weekend I will call the finish cured enough to finish. SR
  19. 1 point
    Yes, that combination works nicely. SR
  20. 1 point
    Back from the laser cutter! I think I overdid the holes a bit, but it might be OK as they yet need to be countersunk. If not, I'll call it a v.1 and cut another one. This stuff has nice texture I think, goes well with the cream pup covers. 1-IMG_20180725_120631 by Goran P, on Flickr
  21. 1 point
    I avoid binding like the plague.... SR
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    Let us all know how you get on. If it works OK, I'll gleefully and shamelessly steal your ideas for my Mark 2
  24. 1 point
    I just gained even more appreciation of your work when I paid attention to the side dots this time. All the many little details are magnificent. Andy, I would be absolutely astounded if I ran across any of your work that was not stunning. So I guess I cannot say that I am astounded by this beauty. I will say that this is a perfect example of why I hold your work and abilities in the highest regard. Masterful work sir. SR
  25. 1 point
    Hi again I've been very pleased with the jig I made, although - to be honest - it needs probably a version 2 to iron out the things I've learnt along the way - and in the meantime Carlos at Guitars and Woods in Portugal has brought out a metal one of similar design that I am sorely tempted to buy as an alternative. Anyway - for what it's worth - this is what I designed and built. I say I designed - I looked at what other people did (G&W's didn't exist at the time) and took what I thought to be the best bits of each: As you can see, it's fairly simple: Roller-bearing carriage that the router fixes to A simple frame with replaceable radiused ends for the carriage to traverse The frame itself sits on a flat, melamine-topped board (an old IKEA shelf) that has a couple of binding strips as guides Originally, I arranged it so I could either fix the radial position and traverse lengthways as an option to routing widthways and then traversing in steps along the length: In use, I found it much easier to do the latter and as such, the above was an unnecessary complication. General issues in the design (and this I would think applies also to the G&W product): The radius you cut is, of course, the radius that the end of the router bit is running at. The radius cut for the bearings to run on needs to be adjusted accordingly. In my case, the bit end is 1" lower than the bottom of the carriage bearings - therefore I use an 11" radius template to cut a 10" radius fretboard This makes the packing under the fretboard (which, of course needs to be flat, stable and capable of being fixed with double sided tape) to end up at the correct height quite challenging. If all your fretboards are the same thickness, then this becomes more straightforward by just thicknessing a suitable single supporting beam The further the bit protrudes, the less width of fretboard will the router bit cut. I originally thought - ahaa! I can cut any radius just by extending or retracting the router bit. And yes you can - but the physical width and height of the jig rapidly increases and you end up with a very large rig indeed (witnessed by many of the internet designs) Finding the centre-point of the radius and lining up the fretboard EXACTLY to this position is critical for getting the radius even and 'square' You have to be careful as you come to the end of the board - it is very easy for the bit to ping off the final edge Like G&W's comment about their own product - you still need to finish off with a radius block. But, even so, to do a fretboard now takes me 3/4hr max - and it used to take me days with some woods. Remind me NEVER to try and hand sand a cocobolo board ever again! Why would I consider buying the G&W product - I think the set up accuracy can probably be made more accurately than my creaky, wood-screw affair and the two template ends will be smooth and equal - which my plywood ends are not. However, the packing height issue, the centre-line accuracy, the need for rig set up setting accuracy, the need to finish off with a block, the need to guide it lengthways, etc would be all the same. Hope this helps!