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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I picked up some lumber a week or so ago, with just the barest of ideas of what I wanted to build. Guitars have bodies and necks, though, So I was able to clean up some edges and glue some pieces together, whilst I figure out where this is going. For the body I got some of the lightest black limba I've ever found. I scribbled up some body ideas and came up with one I like. This borrows quite a bit from an electric mandolin I made a few years back. SR
  2. 4 points
  3. 4 points
    the sword is done. materials used: stainless steel for the blade, MOP, green abalone, walnut with brass stripes for handle, copper wire for little dots at the top of handle.
  4. 4 points
    The off-cuts are cool. It looks like drops of thick mud were piled up and then hardened into wood. The tops is 1.75 inches thick. I'm seriously temped to do some really deep carving...but I'd be starting with a body 3.5 inches thick. That would leave a bunch of highly figured wood chips on the floor. That's the first time I ever did that. Book matched one piece tops.... Using water makes this figured wood much easier to plane.... And it makes it look good too. SR
  5. 4 points
    So I kinda dropped the ball on posting this one, but it's done now and I'm really happy with it so here it goes! After finishing up my bass I still some sapele left over that was just long enough for a thru-neck blank, which made for a great excuse to start a new build. Took a quick trip to the local lumberyard and got some thin wenge to use as neck runners and a nice piece for a fretboard. The best find though was a 10ft x 7in x 1in board of quilted maple that was in a clearance bin for $25. It was too thin to bookmatch but I was still able to find some nice parts of it, plus I can probably get tops for 2 more build out of it. The lovely clearance rack maple Went with a very PRS-ish shape, but offset a bit and added a an arm carve, also did quite a bit of chambering which kept the finished product around 7lbs. Aaaaand this is why I love building thru-necks, so much carving that can be done. I ended up copying the neck profile off my Schecter that I've played since I was 12 just because that's what I feel the most comfortable with, but I made it just a bit thicker. 22-24mm flat-ish C neck with a 14" radius fretboard, feels great to me. I also tried my best at getting a somewhat matching back plate, worked out ok. Inlays are just maple off cuts. Frets went pretty good, wenge was surprisingly easy to work with though I didn't do anything hard with the inlays, decided to keep it pretty clean and simple (though really it's because I'm scared to do crazy inlays like a lot of you guys on here can do). Color was tricky on this one, I got the whole set of crimson guitars stains to play with and I first I was thinking some kind of teal/ blue burst, but none of my tests came out quite right. This cheap maple was very soft and added an amber hue to most colors, really didn't react well with blues and greens. I ended up with this sort of red/ maroon thing that looked pretty good and I just ran with it. It's cherry red on the whole body, then royal blue on the edge blended in with a lot of water to bring out the highlights a bit more, pretty happy with it. Body after one coat of just the cherry red Stain done but no finish, I liked it best here, the oil I used to finish made the burst a bit less noticeable. At this point I was really happy with how thing thing was coming along, so I decided to spend a bit more on hardware than my last few builds. Nothing crazy, whole build is still at under $400 total, but I went with Gotoh hardware and got an almost new set of Gibson 490/498 pickups out of a 2016 LP studio for $80 (these sound great). Did the switching similar to a PRS Paul's guitar with coil splits on separate mini toggles. And here she is (with a super not staged workbench set up)! Soooo happy with how this turned out, plays exactly how I wanted with great access all the way up the neck, and I love how the arm carve flows with the rest of the top carve. This will probably be my last build for a while as I'm going in for surgery on my left hand in a couple weeks to fix an old injury, then I head off to college in September and have to leave my shop behind, will definitely be taking this guitar to school with me though ! Cheers, Graham
  6. 4 points
    Gradually building up the layers again. This time instead of applying, letting a coat dry then wet sanding between coats, I’m putting a coat on, letting it dry, then sanding the following coat in with wet and dry and wiping off excess. Not sure why I didn’t do that in the first place because it worked for both the v and the single cut. This is after sanding in 1200. I’ve got p2000 up to p5000 so I will keep adding coats until I get to my finest paper before buffing, though looking at it as is, satin does definitely work with ziricote
  7. 4 points
    day 6 and 7!!! fretboard sloting table jig,
  8. 4 points
    Yesterday I put together a quick neck carve radius gauge ready for this evening. I scanned the main plans onto the computer then used Inkscape to re-draw the curves. With a bit of manipulation and arranging, I printed, laminated and set about it with the xacto knife So then I rough carved around the 1st fret (as seen above) and the 12th fret, then joined them together - all with the trusty shinto rasp After a bit of scraping, filing and sanding, we are now about 0.5mm over the radius of the '58 spec. It feels a chunky neck at the moment! There's still a bit of sanding to do Finally, some tools of choice... Concave cabinet scraper and a 120 grit sanding block/level The vicious half round file I mentioned the other week It certainly has some bite
  9. 4 points
  10. 3 points
    Wound a set of JBass pups... then a set of hot 54 Strats
  11. 3 points
    I like to drill the tuner holes before cutting the headstock to its final thickness.....like I ever do that. Those of you with pristine organised shops can just bite me! I 've got a squeezed little corner of the garage and I fill it up and use it. I've been squaring up edges after rough cutting the neck. It's a little tough to tell where the cocobolo stops and the rosewood begins... SR
  12. 3 points
    Inlaid. Going to bind this with black andput a few coats of tru oil on. I figure it'll be easy to touch up if I'm banging on it with a pick. The pick guard cavity will be routed into the body on a slight angle. Really looking forward to the next part.
  13. 3 points
    I know a Titebond joint is reputed to be as strong as the wood itself, but I felt the need of a dowel: Then, with mating faces flat and clean, the block was glued on: Then a bit of bandsaw, a bit of chiselling and a LOT of sanding, we had a new Nanyo-dimensioned lower horn: See what I mean about those dark grain marks being useful as a distraction to your eye? The actual join is here:
  14. 3 points
    Here's the dry fit. Black fiber worked really well. Glue tomorrow
  15. 3 points
    Prepare for a very dry update! The first pickup ring is basically ready to go, apart from tidying up one screw countersink, and I'll cut the 3º angle in when I have both ready. I took more photos than this post deserves: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  16. 3 points
    I’m scratching out my first full size guitar. Going for a ludicrous glam rock feel!
  17. 3 points
    I was doing daddy day care this weekend, my 20-month-old daughter was wanting to play outside so I got her some water and washing up liquid and she was quite happy making bubbles with her little wand thing. So with her entertained, I went into the garage to do a bit of tidying up, poking my head round every few seconds. After 10 mins or so she got bored of bubbles, came into the garage and said guitar daddy. Then she picked up a block of wood that the dog and left by the door, picked up a scrap of sand paper I just dropped, sat on the step of the workmate and started sanding it. Worlds cutest luthier in the making.
  18. 3 points
    I made a load more sawdust tonight. Using my favourite 'D' shaped piece of molding wrapped in 40 grit bonded paper... I refined the heel a bit... and the headstock transition/mini volute... Then I set about the neck with my 120 grit sanding block That's pretty much the '58 spec I've got. It's still quite chunky, so I'll let the future owner have a bit of a feel before taking any more off
  19. 3 points
    No work on my actual guitar but I did try out some Odies Oil and my electronics cavity cover concept on my wife’s birthday present. The top is held on with magnets and you push on the corner to pop it off.
  20. 3 points
    Here she is. Got a few cracks as I set some but moving forward. On to the pickguard.
  21. 3 points
    I also had it in my head I wanted to a make a pau ferro neck, as I was really enamored with the one @komodo made for his metal tele build. My wood store did not have any pau ferro. It did have some nice big East Indian rosewood timbers though, so I went that route. It should have a similar look, and I've always wanted a rosewood neck.......or two. SR
  22. 3 points
    working on my video skillz... trying to make it easier to do videos and learn how to edit better. whipped this up... I hope you'll watch and tell me your thoughts. youtube video
  23. 3 points
    From the bottle like the heathen that I am.
  24. 3 points
    Finished, ready to be played.
  25. 3 points
    Thanks a lot I was preparing to make a quick jig for dowels like before, piece of wood drilled with a clamp and a chisel, when I saw my box with dies Pure luck Here's where it's at now - I'll make a bone nut and drill for gibson-style tuners I got in the mail. Still waiting on the piezzo... 2-IMG_20190526_124327 by Goran P, on Flickr 3-IMG_20190526_124347 by Goran P, on Flickr
  26. 3 points
    Very helpful bud, thank you! After sealing, I decided I'm pretty happy with it after all, so I've started putting some poly over it. At this point, the walnut went POP I dropped a bollock though because the control cover has more flaming than the headstock There is a hard edge at the start of the heel, so I'm planning to tidy up the edge along the sids where the maple laminate is and have that line as the start of the oiled neck which will hopefully look seamless.
  27. 2 points
    Bound the pickguard and did a little spot checking. I'll cut and sand everything flush. And finished. Best inlay so far.
  28. 2 points
    I concur. How did he do it? Nanyo business. *ahem*
  29. 2 points
    Thank you! Love the way you both put it - Really appreciate the help.
  30. 2 points
    So, feeling a little bit foolish that it hadn't occurred to me immediately, I found a suitably large area of the donor body and attacked it with my modest (but surprisingly accurate) bandsaw: And, there we have it: This: To this: I've enjoyed all of the builds and mods I've done for Mick, but there's something a little bit extra special about giving an old guitar or bass a new lease of life As always. thanks for watching
  31. 2 points
  32. 2 points
    Ironically, the scratch plate on the LP he's holding, doesn't fit properly
  33. 2 points
    Personally I don't think you're likely to be chased for building Tele/Strat style stuff. As @mistermikev linked to above, the legal precedent was set some time back that essentially noted that the body shapes in question had been used by so many for so long that they had become too generic to defend as being immediately and solely identifiable as Fender's property. A claim by Gibson for a similar argument will probably fall the same way. I missed the original video before it was pulled, but the commentary that remains is revealing enough. In all likelihood it was a poorly timed and worded PR campaign designed to reinforce the importance of Gibson being the first and only source of the real Les Paul/Flying V/Explorer etc. The fact that it has been pulled only days after being launched with apparently no official comment from Gibson also gives the impression of it perhaps being released before it went through proper channels and signoffs before publication. Even so, I can't blame Gibson (or Fender, or anyone else) for feeling hard done by that their most recognisable products are so widely copied, sometimes to a degree that it makes you wonder if some people shouldn't just buy the original guitar. Maybe their video wasn't the most eloquent way of expressing their frustration and trying to win back the purchasing public to the 'genuine article', but I can sympathise with their intent.
  34. 2 points
    Er.....it was. Till I made this newbie mistake. I've never done that before and have no idea how I did it this time....but obviously the template came out of the guide..I'm out of ebony, but I do have a nice piece of cocobolo that's been waiting for years to become a fretboard. So a rosewood board on a rosewood neck.....might end up looking like a one piece , if I'm not careful. Also my body wood came in. A nice maple burl., dry.... and wet with mineral spirits. SR
  35. 2 points
    Got the center laminated sanded flat and glued together. The pieces warped a little when the were initially cut so I allowed them to de-stress and settle down before glueing.
  36. 2 points
    As one safety data file told, the lemon oil in question was up to 100% naphta. Isn't that lighter fluid with a scent? Good for cleaning indeed, but not for lubricating. The good thing about it is that there'll be no residue whatsoever, no matter how liberally you apply it.
  37. 2 points
    So I had an idea to try. I was afraid the gold mother of pearl wood get lost in the zebrawood and I didnt want to use black dye in the epoxy because it's unlikely the route will be perfect. On top of that some of these pieces are tiny so I decided to glue some black fiber cloth around the sides to help with consistency of the inlay and allow me to open up the route a little bit. So far so good. I think it'll clean up well from what I've seen so far.
  38. 2 points
    Well that certainly isn't a competition that I want to be competing in, let alone winning. So this time, I sanded it back with 220 on the orbital, then scuff sanded 320 by hand (220 is as high as my orbital pads go) Then I sanded the first coat of poly in with 400 grit wet paper and wiped off the excess after a few mins. Touch wood this looks a lot more consistent that previous efforts. If this time is successful, I don't know how much of a sheen I'm going to get because I'm nearly out of poly
  39. 2 points
    Negative, Houston. The middle pickup is reverse wound/reverse magnetic polarity for that Strat 'quack'. Most manufacturers offer them as one-off products though, so you shouldn't have any trouble getting your hands on one. If you change nothing else (pickups, tone caps, volume pots), a 500K tone pot will make the roll off of the treble begin higher up the spectrum than an equivalent 250K tone setup. Depending if you're a glass-half-full or glass-half-empty kind of person, you may consider this as 'more transparent' or 'less effective' at taming the highs. But then you could also change the value of each tone cap and get different results yet again,. Slippery slope. My suggestion would be to roll with 500K pots for the lot, unless you're after a particularly darker tonal result overall. You may even wish to install an overwound single in the middle so that it can keep up with the hotter P90s, in which case you may be grateful of the extra highs afforded on the single coil by using 500K pots.
  40. 2 points
    Cleaned the inlays a little
  41. 2 points
    Of course I did! My ideas are brilliant, the level of implementation not that much.
  42. 2 points
    Great advice Bizman and Mister and great tips about the pilot hole method as the starting point for the long drill journey. I've come up with a strategy of routing a channel in each edge of the body (join edges) before joining (set neck, 2 piece body build). I will then drill the required holes from the channel BEFORE glueing the body up. Control Cavity covers for the main CC and toggle switch. This will take some accurate measurements and will still require some long drilling but I think I'll have a better chance of getting it spot on with this approach. It's also an insurance policy - if I screw up the long drill I won't have too much invested! I'll certainly read up on a few PG threads for some more tips. Again, thanks!!!
  43. 2 points
    So the V is finished and you know I'm not one to be sitting on my hands, especially as the Mrs took the little one out for brunch on Sunday so I had a few hours. I recarved the neck - it was 21 and 16/32th mm D carve, now it's 20mm. Then I got it stripped down and I sanded out all the marks It gained from me gigging it over the last few months. Going for another poly finish on the body and headstock and Danish oil on the neck. After doing my testers I decided not to bother with sanding sealer, I know this will require more finish due to the pours on Ziricote, but the sealer resulted in a darker finish which I'm not after. An issue I'm faced with is the lack of availability of the finish I'm using (Minwax wipe-on poly), I've just about got enough to finish this guitar, but availability is so limited at the moment that Amazon.co.uk are charging £90 a tin, meaning it's just not an option. I'm thinking about trying their polycrylic for the next build but not sure of the pros and cons, other than that I won't be able to use the oil based sealer I've got in abundance. Anyway, I'll be applying many thinned down coats of poly over the next week then finishing the neck. The Limba went kaboom under finish
  44. 2 points
    Just you wait... @ADFinlayson just plainly awesome! The base tells so many tales both in the back and the sides!
  45. 2 points
    Got a real nice edge on the top plates which was hard because the intensity of the quilt caused all kinds of grain issues. I tried the jointer, sanding, scrapers etc, finally ended up shaving a thin layer off with the table saw and then some fine sanding. I need a name for my table saw, it’s such an elder statesman of tools. A 1950 Delta Unisaw with the old smaller horse cast iron induction motors. It’s such a great tool, I’ll try to get pics later. Then cut the center ebony core of the body to shape, plus the swamp ash outer wings which were also resawn to just over 1”, and glued all that crap up. The body will endnup being about 1-3/4” thick at it’s thickest, but with the very heavy carve it will be quite thin actually. Only limited by the Red Special bridge. The Trisonic pickups will be very shallow, almost surface mounted. Last is the obligatory - place the hardware on and try to imagine the guitar in there.
  46. 2 points
    The end is in sight.. cavities have all been painted with conductive paint. Got the fretwork finished tonight then a couple of coats of oil on the neck. Neck looks awesome hopefully I’ll have it assembled over the weekend.
  47. 2 points
    One main reason for a flexing saw blade is too much downwards pressure compared to the friction. Based on the images it looks like you followed the bottoms of the circular saw grooves, a method that maximizes the friction. Instead you should have knocked off the corners so you'd always be cutting the shortest possible stretch. I thought I already had posted a sketch about the sawing order, but apparently not:
  48. 2 points
    So here is something new for me as well. My pickups. Have to test them first. This is a hot bridge pickup, should give good distortion. May take some time. but I hope to be offering some soon. MK
  49. 2 points
    Then some green. Looks like hot garbage...
  50. 2 points
    I didn't get a huge amount of time this weekend, but this is what I managed to get done: Played with my new toy (Makita ROS to replace my old one), Installed little magnets in the covers and cavity rims, Drilled the wiring holes between cavities (without breaking through the front or rear of the guitar), Prepared ebony/maple/wenge blanks to make humbucker mounting rings out of. Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr
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