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Entry for March 2018's Guitar Of The Month contest is open!

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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    No worries. But can I ask, have you been drinking? 😉
  2. 6 points
    Yes sir. It makes it so much easier to get an even color. Here is the Paduak SS almost ready. This thing is a beast!
  3. 5 points
    More routing and messy shenanigans in the Kemp workshop today. Started working some more on the competition winner build which is a Korina DC 6-string with Floyd and Seymour Duncan HSS pickups. Edit: and only 24.75" scale length, not something I do often. First up, some sawdust ... All cleaned up...
  4. 3 points
    All right, I've focused my threads on (mostly) one guitar at a time, but I think I'll join the popular "joint thread" movement. Maybe because since I finished the blue multiscale strat I don't have anything fancy in the works (until I start on "The Druid 2.0"). So here are the three builds that are running right now. The strat had a head start and then I wanted to finish it quickly so I shifted most of my attention to that, but now I'm back to the other three, that are moving more or less in parallel. So let me back-trace the builds a little and show you where I'm at. First is a bass - I need a 5-string bass for my personal recording projects (mainly rock and metal covers of various stuff that I'm doing since ~2000). So I figured I'd build one, making it multiscale to have a nice long scale for the low B. Here's a pic of the body wood: from 2015.. This used to be a book shelf, actually a couple of shelves - was enough for this body and some necks. I'm not sure that this is, I suspect oak. Anyway - this is not quite thick enough for a standalone body, but with a quilted maple cap it's perfect: (I slapped some dark veneer between the layers to get an accent line). The neck is plain old maple, it turns out that it wasn't exactly long (and wide) enough for the headstock after doing the scarf, so the headstock is some horrible patchwork of maple pieces - that will be covered by the maple cap so not a huge deal. new way to thickness the headstock: run the outline with the router to a depth which is the headstock thickness + a few mm: then saw off the back part along the bottom of the route: I think I then cleaned it up on a spindle sander with a fence. The fingerboard is bocote, slots cut by hand over a template printed out from fretfind using a complex purpose-built jig: Then glued to the neck, using LMI epoxy: The template for my usual 12-th fret inlay marker pattern: Then pressing the frets in, cutting the neck pocket, rounding over the body edges.. I don't have pictures of that. Fast-forward to now - measured the bridge locations and drilled the holes for the ABM single bridges that I'm using on this build. Mounted the two external bridges to verify alignment (and make a sound ) There you go, now I need to profile the neck and carve the tummy cut, which will be an interesting exercise since I made some weight relief holes in the body but forgot to photograph them and I don't remember if I took the tummy cut into account when laying them out. In other words I don't know how deep I can go, exactly. Sounds like fun. Yea, this thread should be called "how to be lazy and still get a decent instrument at the end". Or "don't be lazy or you'll end up building a crappy guitar". We'll see.
  5. 3 points
    so I used to hang upside down with "gravity boots" when I was younger to try to keep my back decompressed. Well- hanging upside down from a bar and getting your feet (the hooks on the boots) up onto said bar when you are 51 aint so easy no more- and honestly hasnt been for a few years now. So I bought a teeter inversion table. I finally sprang for one after my last episode with my back. Having basically been off my feet for 6 weeks just sucks. I have been using it for less than 5 min, 3 times a day for the last 3 weeks. not quite fully inverted either- 60 degrees maybe. (whatever 4-5 oclock on a clock is in degrees). The chiropractor was only getting me so far. This thing put me to the finish line. "as seen on tv" type products usually suck. Or are gimmicky at best. This thing is neither. I should have bought one years ago. I have forgotten how good decompression works. Getting out of bed in the morning and not grunting and growning -i would wake my wife up with my "oh" and uh and ahs . havent done that in almost 2 weeks. going from not being able to stand on your feet for more than 5 min without extreme pain to taking your first 2 mile walk in 6 weeks is a beautiful thing people. it also assembles in like less than 20 min. I was going to go with a cheaper table- but after looking at manuals on line- it would have taken me a couple days (in the shape I was in) to assemble those- and probably would have "undone" the progress I had made with the chiropractor (you can do that actually-trust me on that). This non-endorsed advertisement for Teeter inversion tables is now over. Mr Natural and his relatives are not related to, endorsed by or even friends with anyone from Teeter Enterprises or (whatever their company is called.)
  6. 3 points
    Today I gave my liquor it's own shelf. I feel like I owe it since it's given me so much.
  7. 3 points
  8. 3 points
    Sounds like my best friend. Always making super weird shit. Last year he wanted to make a paddle to spank grown women with. His ended up looking like basically something that would cause cuts, bruises, blisters on his hands, you know... So when I saw where he was going I made one. A very nice, ROUNDED paddle that would cover a large area with a nice handle that would prevent slipping and hitting the wrong thing. I gave it to him and asked him not to use his, because I don't want to see him in jail. Anyway, last time he was over he told me he uses it quite a bit(he frequents THOSE events) and that he makes women say " Thank you, Wesley" after he uses the one I made and shows them what he made. I don't know how to process such things. I would think he was lying, except I've met some of these girls. They are freaks.
  9. 3 points
    I tinted the curly maple piece and sprayed it with Nitro. I stopped the color just shy of red.....more of and IPA tone. So it went spray nitro, gently level Tru-Oil, spray nitro, level a bit more......rinse and repeat. Even with an orange peel surface this thing looks lenticular. AS it flips you'd swear the hills and valleys are over a quarter inch deep. I'm pretty sure I'm going to like it when it is polished out. SR
  10. 3 points
    Headstock bound in straight tort. No pinstripe as per the body, mostly because I can't afford to put money into more bearings for one job right now. No big deal. The headstock still needs thicknessing, and plenty of sanding through the grits to soften the otherwise sharp edges. A few have been done, but there's a long way to go yet.
  11. 3 points
    Just finished in time and with the smell of varnish still lingering - I present to you the Swift Lite Mark 2 This is the latest incarnation following my personal curiosity about 6 string electrics. That is, do electric guitars have to be so heavy to play well and sound good ? I'm a hobby builder and I've been modding and refinishing guitars and basses for 7-8 years. I did my first scratch build around 6 years ago. I do occasional commissions, generally for fellow band members and friends / family, but sometimes build requests that interest or intrigue me Having gained a bit of a reputation in two or three bass and guitar forums for being a teeny bit crazy and willing to try anything (at least once), I ended up with some really interesting and unusual build commissions. And some of those have led me to question my acceptance of some of the long-standing 'conventions' your see in features of many electric guitar designs - one being that they tend to be so heavy! I've also got to that 'certain age' And I've realised how many guitar players I know personally who have given up because of neck, back, shoulder issues and just can't stand with that weight for a full gig-length anymore. Over a couple of builds, I have used the combination of thru-neck and slimness to reduce weight. This has given an unplanned but very welcome additional benefit of eliminating the usually abrupt encounter of the playing thumb with the heel and body when playing the upper frets. This particular build has sought to exploit that with full access up to the 24th fret, including a thumb anchor point for three or more semitone bends at the top frets. And Mark 2? Well, the original Swift Lite - same basic construction but quite different in shape and other aspects - I built at the back end of last year for my own use. This one, the Swift Lite Mark 2, I have built for Jane, my sister-in-law. In the build I have incorporated a piece of an oak mantlepiece rescued from her late mother's recently demolished house. Here is the spec: 25" Scale; 24 frets Amboyna top; oak back Maple/purpleheart laminated thru neck Macassar ebony fretboard Tonerider Alnico IV Classic humbuckers Master tone / master volume and three-way toggle, wired '50's style' Total finished weight 5lbs 4oz Home-made knobs (oak and macassar) The full build thread is here It balances beautifully both on the strap and over the knee. I'll try to post some sound clips before the entry closes but trust me - it will do anything and everything! And here it is:
  12. 3 points
    And finished! I think Jane will be well pleased with it. It is spot on 5lbs 4oz, it balances and sits great on the strap or over the knee, it sounds excellent with a HUGE range of tones and the neck has worked out really nicely. I'm well pleased with it - it never bothers me to hand over a build...but I would have loved to keep this. I know slim guitars and guitars with fancy tops aren't to everybody's taste, but this will be one I will persnolly miss when it's gone Anyway - here it is: As always, folks, many many thanks for your encouragement and help along the way
  13. 2 points
    so, first off: not affiliated in any way. this is NOT shameless self plug or anything like that. I've gleaned a lot of good info here from very generous souls and just wanted to A) give back a bit and B ) help out my canadian new best friends - woodtoworks.com! I recently bought a 5A maple burl top from these guys and after shipping I paid approx $60. It is a stunning top - a few bark incursions but the figure is all of 5A. On the down side... right off the bat it started curling up due to the change in humidity. These are all kiln dried... so there's that. I'd show ya pics but I just took the top and laid it on a big flat piece of wood, put two straight 2x4s on top of it... and then loaded it down with barbells (I never work out anyway). Will leave it there for a month. Anyway, the site has some great prices on tops and body blanks (unglued). Wanted to share as even after shipping - for what you get, and assuming you are willing to deal with a little bow - they are better than anything I've seen - plus they are canadian which means they are guaranteed good folks ime.
  14. 2 points
    I burnished the fretboard to a glassy 2000 grit.And hammered in frets.
  15. 2 points
    This is after beaching round #2.And this is how it looks wetted for bleaching round #3.Tomorrow I'll neutralize the bleach with a solution of vinegar and water, and probably glue up the fretboard Monday morning.
  16. 2 points
    Here it is a few hours after the second coat of bleach. If I had in mind the final result when I started this, a: I think I'd be done by now, and b: it would be less '70s orange / brown themed. What I'm actually doing is coming up with ideas as I progress through the build and implementing them if it's not too late, without much forethought as to how it will impact the final result. It's a miracle this thing doesn't have a few f holes and a b bender. I'm not sure where I got the idea to bleach it, but it either came from a youtube video recommendation ("You might like this video featuring this dude bleaching this piece of wood"), or I stole the idea from one of y'all while scrolling through the mountains of threads that have accumulated on this forum over the years.
  17. 2 points
  18. 2 points
    Well ladies and gentlemen my project is now complete and here are some pics of my beauty. First I would like to thank Carl (Prostheta ) and Norris for their help and input to this project, it really was good of them. I finished the bass in Try oil and the result was much better that I imagined and easier to apply than spraying. The decal was tricky for me and the only mistake I made was to get it in gold instead of black which would have stood out better but we cant all be perfect. The stain on the back was too deep to get fresh wood but that was years of playing and worn through the lacquer. It plays fantastic and the action is great, took a while to get used to the string spacing as it is fairly parallel but goos once its mastered. anyway some pics guys.
  19. 2 points
    Here's my entry for March.. This is a guitar that I designed that's inspired by a September 1959 article in Mechanix Illustrated entitled 'How to Make an Electric Guitar'. I call it the MI59DC for double cut. I did a little modification of the basic body shape, and designed my own snake head inspired 21 fret 25" scale neck. The top is an interesting piece of flame maple chosen more for it's uniqueness than the mirror quality of the pattern. The finish is nitrocellulos lacquer tinted with ColorTone Vintage Amber. Both body and neck are maple. I used my CNC machine to do the 2D machining on both body and neck, then shaped the neck profile by hand. Neckplate, control plate, and pickup rings are CNC'd 6061 aluminum with my own engraving designs. The engraving is a sun, moon and stars theme. Other details...GFS Alnico Pro humbuckers, 6061 aluminum nut, Ernie Ball #10 strings, hardtail bridge, open back Wilkinson style tuners, heel adjust truss rod (you can tell I cut my teeth building Tele's). I built this guitar for myself. Close up of the engraving on the control plate... Closeup of the engraving on the pickup rings... Closeup of the engraving on the neck plate... Shot of the entire guitar... Closer up view of the body... Thanks and hope you enjoy the pics of the guitar.
  20. 2 points
    Fortunately the ebony absorved the resin and there was no issues of dirty black ebony dust, but efectively it could have been a serious problem. Some pics of a sesion I took in the woods of my little town. Hope you like: Scorpionscar
  21. 2 points
    Four jobs left: Tweak a couple of high spots on three of the frets Finish scrape to final shape and slurry and buff the neck Fix the hatch and trussrod cover with magnets Fit the strap buttons Jobs recently completed is basically the electrics - it is now fully playable and sounds (to my biased ear) great I've stuck with a simple master volume and master tone pluse three way switch: Mainly because Jane is a complete beginner and I doubt would have her learning experience greatly enhanced with coil splits, etc. Having said that, I've wired it '50's style' - so actually, she would be able to get pretty much any sound she likes if she turns out to be a fast learner! The hatch and truss rod cover will be held on by neo magnets and, for the former, I'll carve out a more obvious thumbnail access at the left hand side: The home-made knobs look pretty good Probably the prettiest one I've done so far. Certainly the lightest - 5lb 4oz before the final wood removal from the neck
  22. 2 points
    Brief picture update on progress: Started work on the pickguard. Was going to cut this pattern out, and then mount it on the copper pickguard that I have posted earlier. Decided instead to route the pattern out, fill with copper dust, CA, then sand. From a design perspective it turned out really well IMO... from an execution perspective, I have a lot to learn. There are supposed to be music notes in the helix, but they ended up being too small, and not routed deep enough, so they distorted when I sanded down. And then with the white maple, I accidentally left some larger grit sand marks in place. At this point, I don't think it is worth fixing. Generally I am happy with it, but would definitely do some things different in the future. Additionally I got around to doing some fret work. Not levelled yet, but started to dress the frets. Aaaand, stained the back of the guitar. Minwax Jacobean. The varying penetration of the poplar gives it a kind of "relic" look, and partially worn w/o sanding. Generally pretty happy with it. Next guitar, I am going to try to steer clear of poplar though.
  23. 2 points
    Thank you Curtisa, I tried before pasting the https, but didn't work. I'm going to try now. This is a video inlaying the ebony Flying-V fingerboard. Scorpionscar
  24. 2 points
    I only used a wash coat of dark purple dye originally, then did the rest with gradual coats of kandy color. Then i sanded the edge to shape and it left a clear line. Here are some better pics.
  25. 1 point
    As much as anything, I added the dust shoe to mine to minimise chip and dust buildup on the rails. Also saved me trying to devise a way to add concertina bellows to all the rails and the subsequent loss of travel in any direction when the bellows collapse down.