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    10pizza

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    curtisa

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/22/2017 in all areas

  1. Recently glued the top on this one and started on some carves
    2 points
  2. Acoustic updates, because ScottR told me I had to..... I honestly don't remember what I posted before and what I didn't. So if this is partial re-hash, oh well. This is the box for the 2nd real guitar for my benefactor. Cherry b/s, spruce top, granadillo & yellowheart lattice inlay. That lattice was a colossal PITA. It took forever to get the layout & spacing right. Then I'm routing 1/16" grooves into 1/8" wood... I was terrified I was gonna fubar it at every turn. Single layer black binding all around Box for my youngest daughter. Bloodwood b/s, spruce top, bloodwood/limba rosette, eventual multi-layer binding. necks for them both cherry/lattice box gets the walnut neck/cherry fretboard bloodwood box gets limba neck/buyana rosewood fretboard w/ block inlays
    1 point
  3. hi @Guillen , somehow I didn't see the pictures before. looks like your trem is heavily corroded. Next to that it isn't one of the best designs to start with possibly. here's a link to another page http://ibanez.wikia.com/wiki/SLT101 I agree with @curtisa here. Given the value of the guitar and the cost/work to fit an edge trem I'd advise to look at trems that have similar measurements and can be dropped in with no extra work required. question is: what are you looking to achieve? If you want to experiment on modding a guitar and don't mind spending some money then you can go for it. My advice would be to first get your hands on an edge or similar trem so you can see exactly how it will fit. You probably will need to install new studs for the anchors which may require filling up the existing studholes first. Possibly you'll need to do some routing as well to allow for a good floating setup. If you just want to improve the guitar with a better bridge/trem. Have a look at the trems Curtisa mentioned or alternatively look for a used Ibanez RG or S model with a better trem as advised as well in your thread over at Seymour Duncan: http://www.seymourduncan.com/forum/showthread.php?322464-Original-Edge-tremolo-on-Ibanez-S270-Korean
    1 point
  4. Shame you never GOTM'ed her because I'd have posted, "Let the Wookiee win".
    1 point
  5. I don't think you're going to find a tutorial specifically describing how to achieve what you want. The cavities appear to be different enough to require some degree of woodworking. A secondhand Edge trem seems to be in the vicinity of $150 - $250. They're usually pulled from scrapped guitars, so their condition may be less than ideal. That alone may be worth more than the value of the S270 on the secondhand market. You need to decide if you have the tools and skills to pull this off successfully, or are willing to pay someone to do the work for you. The risk by having this modification performed, and it not going well, is that you end up with a guitar that is unplayable, several hundred dollars out of pocket and a guitar that is worth nothing if you try to resell it. Have a closer look at the Wiki page 10Pizza linked to. It has the installation manual for the Edge trem including some critical measurements for the bridge - the post spacing, the size and shape of the spring cavity. My understanding is that the STR101 is similar in size and shape to the Lo TRS or Lo TRS2. Information on the web suggests that the Original Floyd Rose will drop straight into the Lo TRS cavity with no rework required, and hence may be a direct replacement for your STR101. The German-made OFR (or the licensed unit made by Schaller) is a fine double-locking bridge with a radius of 10" or 12" (by removing a shim of metal under the middle 4 saddles), which will probably be close enough to match your 16" radius neck to get away with. Alternatively the Gotoh GE1996T is supposedly a drop-in replacement with a 14" radius. Both are less than $200 new. Have you considered just replacing the saddles with Floyd Rose originals? They may fit and will be a lot easier and cheaper than retrofitting the whole Edge trem. Measure your trem very carefully and compare with the measurements of the Gotoh GE199T or the Floyd Rose Original. Someone here may be able to provide you with measurements of the Edge to compare with as well.
    1 point
  6. Yep. For this one it would've been a smaller spread, and negligible result. Just a flight of fancy for a minute or two. For the 8-string I'd like to build it would be functional in evening string tensions and the single string bridges and pups were considered from day 1. That said, here's my "beer for doing projects other than getting on with this build."
    1 point
  7. not sure what you're asking here. video what? have you checked out this page: http://ibanez.wikia.com/wiki/Edge it's got some specs and drawings as well that can help you out maybe.
    1 point
  8. I have an original Edge waiting to be installed in one of my projects. If you want me to measure some stuff just ask. They do show up on ebay etc., but usually quite expensive......
    1 point
  9. Neck bolted on ... seems pretty solid.
    1 point
  10. Thanks guys. Axim.7 is finished and Im so glad) Want to share with you this short video. It's not a demo, no. Just video))
    1 point
  11. The SLT101 trem on that model has a slightly different cavity shape compared to the Edge, but it appears that it can be done with some changes to the outline of the cavities: http://www.jemsite.com/forums/967443-post2.html Other anecdotal evidence suggests that the Gotoh double-locking trem is a drop-in replacement that requires no additonal work. Used Edges turn up on eBay from time to time. If it were me, I'd want to be absolutely certain that it was worth going ahead with though. You need to check the post spacing is the same on the trem you're replacing it with, and any changes to the cavity shape will require access to tools and skills that may be worth more than the cost of the instrument, Also factor in refinishing where the cavities are re-shaped if appearance is important to you.
    1 point
  12. Moved to the Tech Area -> Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat for better housekeeping.
    1 point
  13. The tenon has areas just below the surface of the body...mandolin dimensions don't always translate to quitar build techniques. I filled the end of the tenon with epoxy and the leveled the tenon with epoxy and router chips from the neck pocket. And started fitting the top until I ran out of weekend. And right about here I realized that between the taper of the neck and the overhang of the fretboard, it is going to be tricky to get a nice fit to the neck and actually get it on the neck in position to be glued up. I'm going to have to think on that one for a bit.... What did you do? SR
    1 point
  14. Hi Psychonaught, Oh absolutely! See http://www.cycfi.com/projects/nu-series/ The Nu is the descendant of this project.
    1 point
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