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Entry for July 2018's Guitar Of The Month contest is open to all!
1 pointWell, it didn't take long to get the laser. They had one of those nifty cross line lasers that runs a line in about a 100 MOA arc, so I was able to set everything. Tomorrow is a big chance for rain as well as the day the latest Destiny DLC drops, so I am glad to get this side done. As bad as D2 is, I still want to stay current with the changes. Probably be biring as fuck again in a week, but hey...I will at least have a few hours of fun.
1 pointToday I've been working on the fretslots. I used a homemade miter box made with recycling materials. I spent a lot of time setting up the jig but well worth the effort cause it works fantastic and is very precise. I cut the slots but not as deep as tang, after that, I use my japanesse saw with a stop block and is now when I locate the acrylic stop block the lenght of the tang plus six or seventh of a milimiter. This way is no necessary to fill the gap and it works great for me. In one of the pictures there is the easter candle's of my grandma in honour to Curtisa Who tought me the trick of lubricating the saw blade with the parafin of the candle. At the same time I pray to god for no make mistakes at this stage of the process. Some pics of the advances:
1 pointA few more details:
1 pointI'm a bit late on this one Anyway, a few things occur to me: Personally, I HATE the just-finished bit of any build I do. The first set up. I pretty much always think it's a disaster. I'm pretty much always ready to admit defeat, email the intended owner with profuse apologies and sorting out a bin bag big enough to dispose of it. Really. Ref the frets - I think you said that the frets where the middle is high (and there were not too many of them?) you could bottom to the fretboard with a firm push? A squeeze of titebond along the gap, clamped down with a radius block for 1/2 hr or so (or a dribble of thin CA glue along the line and simple a firm push until the wick'd glue has set) will usually sort. If it actually will ground to the fretboard at all, then it's often just that the tangs have cut a groove and don't have enough resistance to hold the fret flat against its natural tendency to return to its radiussed shape. You only have slots that need deepening if it won't bottom however hard you press or clamp it down. Ref the neck heavy, there are a few options. Change of button position; extension to the top button; wider strap; lighter tuners (this will make a BIG difference on the longer neck) The action takes, in my own experience, a bit of iteration of fret levelling, truss rod adjustment, leaving to settle and repeating. I'm doing exactly that at the moment with the Alembicesque build...and it's going to the owner in less than a week's time. I've still got a slightly higher action than I think it should end up with so I have at least one more iteration to do. Ref the fretwire - even a new bought guitar usually takes a few weeks of playing until you settle in with it. The first Gibson Les Paul I had took months for me - and the only real difference was going to a 12" radius from a 9.5"... So by all means hang this on the wall for a bit and start the next one....but do come back to it. It looks superb and I have no doubt whatsoever that it will play superbly well too once you've done a bit of normal post-build tweaking....
1 pointLast night I finished cleaning up the edges of the board using my trusty 80 grit sanding beam, followed by my 180 grit beam. I'm doing a fair bit of sanding on the ebony having got a few chips on the few times I've waved a plane at it. It takes a bit longer but at less risk. I then had to file down the top of the truss rod washer as it was sitting a little proud. There's a thing I should have paid more attention to before gluing in the fillet Finally to round off the evening I made the vertical cut in the headstock plate. The nut will nestle up against it, so it needed to be nice and square. I clamped my set square in place to give me a guide, scored with an xacto-knife, then set about it with one of the nice new Japanese pull saws that my class have bought. I've not used one before, but it was a real joy to use and lovely & accurate I cut most of the way through the ebony until I could see the mahogany at the edges of the cut, then chipped off the ouffcut with a chisel. Otherwise I'd have been sawing down into the mahogany before the centre of the cut was through. Anyway a chisel carefully applied to the end grain chipped it away no problem - it's what ebony wants to do A little tidying with a cabinet scraper to remove the old Titebond squeeze out that was remaining, and the job's a good 'un