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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/15/2017 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I started another project a few weeks back, and for the first time I am reprising one of my original designs; from the #4 has an F-hole build. That was my first GOTM winner, and the only one I have that my wife says I cannot get rid of. I'm sure there will be some modifications, but we'll start with the same pattern and see where it goes. This one will have a sapele body, a zebra wood top, and a neck that's zebra wood, with a Katalox center spine. Really hard, stiff stuff that is, I think it is around 3660 on the janka scale. This build is likely to have several interruptions along the way, but it will keep me amused between interruptions. I skipped the prep and body glue up shots and went straight to the neck sandwich glue up. I decided to cut a shelf for the nut below the level of the fretboard. This will add a Fender like drop off plus a headstock angle which should give plenty of breakover angle for the strings. I like the pattern and colors after cutting the headstock angle. It's almost too bad there will be a headstock cap of Katalox to cover that up. Body cut out....but not quite ready to play yet. SR
  2. 1 point
    It would be better to plane the body down 5/16" and then add the top to it.
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  4. 1 point
    My advice to everyone is to watch your kids when you tell them to clean the yard. My Mom didn't watch me, and now I'm surfing through 30 year old buckets and pans.
  5. 1 point
    Oooh - that's a good tip! I'll just go and borrow MrsAndyjr1515's and see how well it does
  6. 1 point
    Hey William, you appear to be from near my old stomping grounds... I sometimes use an old electric toothbrush in one hand and blow compressed air at the same time with the other to clean dark dust out of light wood's pores. SR
  7. 1 point
    I would try really localized compressed air to start with if you haven't tried that. Fine grey scotch brite should help too. Paul
  8. 1 point
    William K- exactly what @Andyjr1515 said, though be careful with any brush that is too stiff on the spruce- plus compressed air if available and maybe a tack cloth. I wouldnt wet it with any cleaning type agent until vacuumed, blown or tack clothed first- then try the naptha. We like pictures here if you are able to upload
  9. 1 point
    I was just making a joke...
  10. 1 point
    Finally got to use my new bandsaw! The 5mm blade worked okay, but I will definitely want to get the 3mm blade for this kind of work ... took some doing inside the horns. This is a hobby-level machine, but so much nicer than using a handsaw or jigsaw. This Chinaberry apparently not what many North Americans are used to. I've had two people tell me they would have never considered this wood for a guitar, and handed them my two basses ... they were surprised they were not Balsa-soft and dead when tapped. This piece is also quite sturdy ... about the same weight as a light piece of African Mahogany, and makes a nice, healthy, lively sound when knocked on. By the way, I did say before that this was a BIG slab of wood, right? It was a failure as a table, with a full-length, crooked pith right down the middle. But I was (barely) able to squeeze three blanks out of it, and have enough straight stock for two necks ... and it seems pretty stable. One pic is lightly sanded, the other is with a bit of white gasoline (naphtha) wiped on ... very red or pink! Come to think of it, I think the auction blurb mentioned that.
  11. 1 point
    Thanks, I'll mix a batch when it gets warmer. In the meanwhile, I tested the waterbased dye on a piece of headstock offcuts and it seems OK. The paper says to apply 2 coats, so I'll repeat after installing the dots, but I did the fretboard and it looks promising. Also, started the MOP logo. I almost always use the vice to cut inlays now, it prevents breaks and is much more comfortable to hold. Works great for a few simple things I do. I'll try to route/glue in the logo today, not enough time yesterday, and then I'll stain the headstock too. 90 by Goran P, on Flickr 91 by Goran P, on Flickr 92 by Goran P, on Flickr 93 by Goran P, on Flickr 94 by Goran P, on Flickr 95 by Goran P, on Flickr 96 by Goran P, on Flickr
  12. 1 point
    I decided that it might be a long time before I got another opportunity to make a headstock as unique as this one, so I think I'll forego the cap.....unless I decide it just doesn't work after the guitar has been assembled, at which point I shall likely curse and thrash about as I add a cap to a fully shaped headstock, which will be entirely more difficult. towards that end I removed the ledge I had created for the nut and will cut a new one after the fretboard has been located. I added a few coats of Tru-oil to the handle. It darkened the ziricote a bit, but should protect it from whatever mess my brother in law may subject it to. You may have noticed that I also have cut the top. I am itching to cut the fretboard, but am waiting for some new bandsaw blades that should have arrived but appear to be caught up in the holiday package delivery log jam.I had some bridge height corrections to make on the mandolin because I didn't take into account how much thickness I would lose while flattening the gluing surfaces of the top and body. While I'm waiting for new bandsaw blades I am preparing those surfaces prior to determining my neck angle and tenon depth. Cheers! SR
  13. 1 point
    When the thread is reviewed Dalton, you can see a lot of problem-solving and good application to them. I don't see that much wrong with this build. Maybe dropping the bass side of the TOM bridge back for easier compensation. Oops on the heel, but hey. F-holes....I would approach these using a router bushing set. Your Makita should be compatible with a generic Porter Cable set for a couple dozen bucks. Tight radii can be done that way if you make a custom template that incorporates a bushing offset.
  14. 1 point
    This happens a lot, I think. A person's first builds are often carried out with a set perspective based around high expectations which are not always in line with how it'll turn out. Problem is, it's rarely easy to get a handle on what is being done right, what is being done incorrectly and what needs practice until you have a little experience under your belt....and that often comes as a result of completing a less than satisfactory first build. A lot is always taken from first builds of course. Finding your bearings. You not have an excellent grounding point and set of experiences that will help you step up to a higher level with subsequent builds. Rather than regret anything from this build or any build (unless you spunked a crapload of cash on an expensive irreplaceable set of woods, which I see too often....and have done myself) just stick to the idea that you're on an uphill path. Instruments are a built using a large set of differing skills and knowledges rather than one skill of "instrument making". Things like cleanly-cut fret slots are one of those. I don't like the term "hitting the wall" and it implies an impassable limit. You know where you can improve, and that's more than a lot of builders who are satisfied with what they do. If you're going to glue your frets down, use something that can clamp them in place whilst the glue cures and be prepared for cleaning up squeezeout and excess from gravity. Getting the right amount for it to be effective and not a mess is a bit of a trick, especially if you use CA with a small time window to get it done and step back. Got to run to work....I hope this provides some encouragement any maybe a more positive perspective. Less hitting walls ;-)