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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/08/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    So far today I’ve masked off the pup cavities to paint them. andctest fitted the bridges in case there was too much swelling from the colour application. plus, it’s nice to see some hardware against the final colour. I’m thinking of using wooden control knobs on this. I’ve used them before and found them pretty but slippy, so if I make some I’ll be adding rubber O rings for grip.
  2. 2 points
    Aye, aye, Cap'n Sir And so to the back and neck carve. I'm probably about half way through that so far. As I've mentioned before, I finish the neck profile off once the guitar is finished and fully strung up - yes, I know. I'm weird like that - but there's still a bit of bulk to take off to get to my preferred softish 'V' profile before that stage. After just a few minutes with a spokeshave, most of the carve has been done using micro plane blades, just held in gloved hands like a scraper. The towelling underneath is to stop any dints on the top (you see, I do sometimes take notice of your gems of advice, @Prostheta ) - you can see it's been used for many times for past staining jobs. Based on the fact that a number of my staining jobs are red ink, it has the unfortunate look of the results of a serious router/finger incident! At this stage, I tend to do a lot of air-guitar playing I've got some more bulk to take out at the heel / body transition, but the thumb anchor points and 24th fret access feel fine so far. You can see why I took impressions earlier of where the hidden weight relief chambers are! Breaking through at this stage of the process would definitely spoil my day Total weight so far is spot on 4lbs - about 4oz lighter than my previous build. Having a bash at making my own wood knobs - which will save 2-3oz over the brass ones I previously used - a final 5 1/2 lbs weight should at least be within reach
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    Well I have plenty of facial hair for the both of us. Ok. More progress. Did some final sanding and scraping then masked off the ash. Put on a couple of coats of brown stain. This was a water based stain so raised the grain a little. flatted that back before doing a coat of Amber. this has a very subtle fade so the nearer to the neck the more amber there is barely noticeable but I think it adds something. Photo just after the first brown coat. a then the first coat of finishing oil went on I’ve done another since and plan on doing six for a satin finish.
  5. 1 point
    The main reasons I can think of is that the tooling and installation is more difficult, and the additional time it takes to complete the job makes it more expensive. Stainless being harder is less forgiving on the tools, so you either need to replace them more frequently or invest in better quality ones to begin with. Some people might get all voodoo about the tone differences between stainless and nickel silver, but I suspect you'd be hard pressed to hear any difference in a normal playing situation.
  6. 1 point
    I would sand it till it fit....but I'm not know for doing things the way everybody else does. If taking the square out of the heel moves the neck close to the bridge, you want to check that it does not mess up your scale length. SR
  7. 1 point
    It looks like some sort of confection made out of wood.
  8. 1 point
    @Andyjr1515That’s very generous of you but not to worry. I’m sure I’ll have gouged chunks out of it with a slippery chisel by then!
  9. 1 point
    I thought of Spinal Tap when I read your post but couldn't think of the scene. Smell The Glove black sleeve. I haven't watched the film in a while
  10. 1 point
    Don't forget - if you're lacquering, you don't want it too tight
  11. 1 point
    It's like... how much more flame could it be? And the answer is none... none more flame
  12. 1 point
    Still watchin'. Still enjoyin' the show. Keep calm and carry on, sir.
  13. 1 point
    Too complicated. All you need is a couple of straight edges and a few clamps. Check out the article in Sustain Magazine on page 24 about creating a universal neck pocket jig.
  14. 1 point
    Raised my conex about a foot today.I still need more. It needs to at least be the same height as my mobile home.
  15. 1 point
    The router slipped but nobody will ever know once the cap is on. If only all little mishaps were invisible! looking good and I think you could save more weight if you wanted. Don’t forget the weight of hardware and the neck. Might end up a bit 70s weight wise!
  16. 1 point
    Flame Maple and lots of...
  17. 1 point
    Yep already have some timber and enough hardware for about a dozen guitars - or do I? I am amazed how dumb I can be sometimes. I get a guitar close to being finished then realise "Oh I need an output jack" or a toggle switch, or just some wire to connect it. One time I was chucking some strings on and, "Oh couldn't wait to hear what this baby sounds like" then I realise there's no nut. So I go looking through my box of goodies and "Where are my Nuts?" I haven't got any Nuts!
  18. 1 point
    I decided to put the same demarcation feature under the headstock plate. I cut some maple and ebony veneer offcuts: Then glued and clamped them under a decently thick piece of sapele: For the fretboard, I did the side dots, then filled the fret slots with a mixture of epoxy and macassar dust: Once that was set and the edges sanded down, it was time to glue the fretboard on In the meantime, the pickups have arrived
  19. 1 point
    For the maple fretboard I was going to use some NZ Paua to get the contrast, but for the macassar I think MoP would work better. I cut out a couple of swifts for the 12th and routed the shapes with the dremel precision base: Then glued them in with epoxy mixed with fretboard sanding dust and added the MoP dots for the other positions: Then a quick sand with the radius block:
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