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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    An oldie I never entered in GOTM. Jet Jons Jag. Build here: SPECS: 3 piece Alder body Maple Neck, EIR Fretboard 34" scale Tele Headstock Jag bass redesign by my self. All cnc cut by me and finish work by hand. Finish was done with lacquer and 2 k clear coat. BadAss 2 bridge, EMG active pickups w/ three volumes and one tone control Hipshot tuners, 1 is a Drop D Banjo Frets, ( He likes them crisp as he places his fingers on the actual fret, the harmonics on this are a beast) Sorry I lost many pictures in a HD Crash, so this is the best I have at present, had to get the owner to get me some.. LOL!!! Pictures are of the owner John, One gigging in his Brian Adams Tribute band. This thing rocks. The first Bass I ever built. I let John finish sand the hand, arm and belly carve to suit him. He also wanted to spray the color. LOL!! Now it is one of the new models I will be using. Yep, I know where is the damn control cover? Jon lost it, so i have to make another one. LOL!!!
  2. 1 point
    You certainly have what it takes to make tutorial videos! Substituting the filing hiss of the inlay pieces with a longish musical piece indicated perfectly the time needed for such fine job. This time the volumes were again pretty nicely balanced. The music wasn't too loud for my sensitive(ish) ears. Cutting the inlays with the band saw raised a couple of questions. First, how fine was the blade? And second, do you think that could be done with a laser cutter? The small ones seem to be very inexpensive second hand.
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    I had company last weekend, and got nothing done here. I was able to steal an hour here and there though, and have gotten this thing to its final shape and sanded to 400. It is ready to start the dye regimen and to fill the voids in the burl. So finishing officially begins tomorrow! SR
  5. 1 point
    thanks bud, much appreciated. It's a lovely looking wood but so hard on tools, hand cutting fret slots in it is not fun!
  6. 1 point
    So I've always liked the semihemispherical fret look. I did an ok job on the last one but i feel I finally am on the right track. I experimented quite a while on different techniques and finally found one that works for me. I think I could've done it after pressing the frets in but I wanted the extra length to play with. Used a dozuki saw to cut a slot in a piece of radiused board. I cut the tang and file it down (carefully). I used my fret guru end file to round the end on 90 degrees and then transition to my z-file and run a few passes starting at a steep angle and working it back. Then I hit it with a foam 220 sanding block and I have micro mesh sticks to get them polished up, (thanks for that idea scott) heres a pic of one after the 220. I look at the bottom to even it up and then round over the top. This has always been a hurdle for me so maybe itll help someone along. Heres some pics.
  7. 1 point
    Congratulations! Beautiful guitar and I dig the inlay! I got some ziricote myself recently.
  8. 1 point
    Getting back to the guitar, some shavings have actually been removed again. Continuing the pursuit of noise and dust management, I've tried out yet another hand tool -the Veritas Cornering tool kit. Worked really well for radiusing the edges consistently. Easy to use, as long as you're aware of the grain direction.
  9. 1 point
    My first foray in to Guitars of The Month! I remain humbled at the sheer artistry on display from all the usual members, here is my contribution. This is my 4th build, built in my shed in the back garden. It’s kind of a modern take on the Fender Esquire style that I have built for my nephew Louis. I hope it lives through many happy memories! The Norway Maple I purchased initially weighed a tonne, so a lot of planing on the router was necessary in order to bring the body thickness down from 45mm to 32mm. At I think I got it down to a reasonable weight. A few things I noticed during the build, one big thing was that I am now a definite fan of those old style split post tuners! They hold tuning so well and I just think they are a really nice design. The EVO gold fret wire surprised me as I thought that the hardness of it would present some real challenges, however it really wasn’t too bad to use. I think it looks great too, will no doubt use again. One thing to bare in mind about Norway Maple…it really doesn’t like power tools a huge deal, what I mean by that is that it burns/scorches really easily! In fact it came to me part scorched where it had been cut to size. I’m not sure if this is something particularly common when it comes to this species… Im not sure of the precise brand of the pickup but it has a very cool distinctive sound that is hard to pinpoint in terms of comparison and it handles volume a lot better than my other builds. Ever played a left handed guitar? Not easy haha! However I believe I have given it a more than adequate test run. Anyway here are the specs- Louiscaster Left handed Set neck 25.5 scale length Body wood- Norway maple Neck and fingerboard wood- Flamed maple Back plate wood- Walnut Finish- Tru oil Fretboard radius - 9.5 Graphite nut Split post Wilkinson WJ55 Tuners Pickup- Alnico 5 Hot Rail P45 from CHGuitars Spoke wheel dual type truss rod Jescar EVO gold Fretwire - Medium Here it is!
  10. 1 point
    Thank you I think most of them were taken with a 35mm f1.8, maybe one or two with a 50mm f1.4 (but probably not shot wide open). I find that both work really well for handheld shooting of progress pictures with whatever light is available. With the light varying between natural light and halogen spots, I could have paid better attention to the white balance. The cherry knobs are great, although the birch would match the E.A. Berg chisels, and I'm quite partial to it after having owned an 80's SonorLite drum kit which I regret having sold:
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