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Entry for April 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - ENTER HERE!


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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/13/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    More done today, Braces, Plate and profile cut. I left the braces rough so I can work them after I have access from the bottom.
  2. 1 point
    I'll take a closer look at the routes and see about the wood. I've not got a good eye to tell what kind of wood if it's solid, but should be able to tell if it's plywood. Up till now, I've mainly focused on trying to decide on a bridge, and tuners. I've plenty of parts to buy, obviously. It only came with the toggle switch plate and 1 of 2 back plates. I put a set of those Gotoh Vintage tuners on the old Japanese LP copy I have. Beautiful tuners. I had to redrill the head for them because they original tuners were at an angle, and the Gotohs were not.
  3. 1 point
    That's why I recommended tooth paste as well. It's an old fishermen's trick for lures with the thinnest gold/silver plating.
  4. 1 point
    I got ya on the scaling and GIMP. I do that sort of thing a lot. As long as I know one single measurement, I can scale it perfectly, then print to scale. Good idea there! That's kind of what I was planning if I end up having to make a custom designed pick-guard. Really hoping I can just mod a '58 reproduction guard. Interesting to hear your take on this piece (wood vs. plywood). I've really no idea. I'd read mid-80s, but who knows, might be earlier. Or might just be from early in the batch. Def. not a bolt on, tho. If you check out one of those links I supplied in the initial post, there are some good shots of about everything but the front of the head and tuners. Mine looks identical to that guitar but for all the missing parts.
  5. 1 point
    What sort of pencil doesnt' come off with a good plastic eraser, especially from a relatively shiny surface like that? Anyhow, rubbing with a paste made of white vinegar and baking soda might take care of that too. Tooth paste can be used as well. @mistermikev I'm not joking.
  6. 1 point
    My favourite colour description: Old ivory, or piss burnt (like used-to-be-white undies). When I said this to a smart phone salesman he said he never can use the former again with a straight face.
  7. 1 point
    I thought that might be the case....since you built the whole damn thing. Bravo. SR
  8. 1 point
    This one is just a vehicle for a set if P90s. Ive got a thread already where it was going to be an LP Jr, but now I think it should be an SG or original. But no fancy wood. lol
  9. 1 point
    Nice! Home made vanilla ice cream with a chocolate crust. On a serious note Mike, did you cut your vacuum fitting on the router and make it too? SR
  10. 1 point
    I'm not sure what the discolouration is, but I've got an ash body I'm working on and all of the boring uniform figure is perfect but all the interesting grain has that grey splotchy stuff, it's far more obvious under finish too, so I've had to cut it so using the boring stuff. With regards to flattening, something I've done a few times is to knock the high spots off with a hand plane, then stick several rows from a roll of 80 grit to a thick sheet of mdf and rub the blank over it until it's falt - it doesn't take as long as you'd think. That also works well after using a router sled because router will never leave you a perfect surface.
  11. 1 point
    Well played. I'd 'like' your comments, but it would eat into my daily quota.
  12. 1 point
    That looks like some moisture related miscolouring - condensation combined with dust containing some metals maybe. You may have heard about ebonizing wood with vinegar and steel wool, something similar may have happened there. The only way to find out how deep it goes is to plane it. It doesn't look too bad, a hair off the surface should tell if you should worry or not. Measure some of the smaller spots, plane the surface off and measure again. If the spots are significantly smaller and less colourful by only taking one or two shavings away, there should be no issues.
  13. 1 point
    Andy, I should say that some of your "sibling" builds planted the idea in my head to do this. That and the fact that I had enough wood from the first build to build two necks and three bodies....and I loved the burl enough to say--OH YEAH, I'M DOING THIS AGAIN! So thanks for blazing the trail. SR
  14. 1 point
  15. 1 point
    Looking very good. Love that colour. Like the back scoop very much too...
  16. 1 point
    Using the body as a pattern, I marked out the top. And then cut it out. And like its big brother it need to trim down a bit. I may have said I wasn't going to do that again..... but I guess I thought I needed a couple of hours of exercise. I put some water on the side I'm using to better see what was inside and to remind myself that the two hours of exercise was not wasted. SR
  17. 1 point
    I made a headstock cap and glued it on, and set the trussrod and locator pins so I could glue on the fretboard. And I did just that and created the obligatory clamp farm. While that is drying, it's time to cut the body out. I did that and cleaned it up on the belt and spindle sander. The bookmatched butt is still mostly intact. SR
  18. 1 point
    Ain't it cool how no matter how good a fretboard looks, adding frets makes it look better? SR
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