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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/14/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Properly sharpened tools make all the difference in the world. They are much safer, and the job is much more fun using them. SR
  2. 1 point
    Not very long at all to be honest, I am surprised at how quick hand carving can be once I'd done it a few times and learnt how to properly sharpen the gouges and thumb planes. I did it over 2 sessions and I think no more than 2 hours, though I expect there will be at least a solid 1 hour left before I can call it done. It's when we start hollowing it out, carving the underside and cutting f-holes that the hours really rack up, fortunately I'm not doing any of that on this build.
  3. 1 point
    Some other bits going on. Got these two custom builds that I've been shielding and prepping for assembly, just waiting for the last of the hardware...
  4. 1 point
    Thanks @ADFinlayson I’m actually happy with the binding now and to be honest I’d be nervous taking sandpaper to the edges. I’d be worried about not getting a consistent sharp line. I’m not the most accurate worker with sandpaper and tend to overdo it on painted surfaces. That’s why my finishing is usually the part that lets my work down. the razor blade worked well enough on the body but I did find on certain areas of my neck headstock I would get a bit of chatter.
  5. 1 point
    The more I look at that the more I think about ebonizing! As you know, it's made by diluting steel wool (=iron) into white vinegar (=acid). You may also have heard of acid rain which obviously means there's acid fog and mist as well, and dust can easily contain iron particles especially near a workshop or a road. Another option that popped up is ammonia fumes. Similarly to vinegar+iron the effect is stronger with woods containing more tannin. Maple seems to get that greyish look when fumed so that may be the reason for the splotches. If the reason is ammonia fumes, the source can be anything from a lawn fertilizer to plastic softener residues from a tarpaulin to household cleaning solutions. Some good reading about colouring wood with chemicals: https://issuu.com/ksorsky/docs/art_of_coloring_wood
  6. 1 point
    So, I 've been playing the mandola for a week or so. It's settling in nicely, holding tune, sounding good, etc. Before I break it back down for final sanding (and a little tweaking of the neck profile) and finishing, it's time for a little 'voo doo'! For the next week the mandola will stay locked in our guest bedroom, laying on a quilt, with a Tonerite running at full blast. This thing theoretically replicates many many hours of playing by constantly vibrating the strings. Essentially rapidly breaking the instrument in and causing it to sound like an older more mature instrument. Does it work? No clue. But a friend had one and let me borrow it, so I figured it was worth a week...
  7. 1 point
    Looks great, if you want to make that faux binding more obvious on that top than where your tape stopped, you can just sand the edges, use something fairly course like 150 and sand at a 45º angle until you've got the binding cut in as far as you want. The only thing to watch out for is that you don't get too much dust worked into the edge so stop and blow it off often. I used to use a razor blade to scrape in the faux binding, but I've found that sand paper works better - the razor blade has a habit of chattering on endgrain.
  8. 1 point
    More done today, Braces, Plate and profile cut. I left the braces rough so I can work them after I have access from the bottom.
  9. 1 point
    When I was cutting the relief into the fretboard, I did it off the body. In fact I built, binded, and inlayed the fretboard before I even drew out the neck on the maple. I then used the fretboard as my router guide to shape the neck. Worked well for me
  10. 1 point
    Used fine finishing pad to sand back the finish to pop the grain. First coat of danish oil on body. Some colour did lift on to the cloth but very happy with it so far. The faux binding came out well, the stain didn’t soak through anywhere so nice tight line. I did leave a very fine faux line on the top, probably should have gone a bit thicker when I was masking off but am pleased all the same. whilst wet the colours really do dance under good lighting, love it
  11. 1 point
    This is my new experiment prototype and I'm interested in your opinion for design, details, specs, sound etc Please feel free to leave comment, share thanks! I have spent more than one year to design and build this "ONE" . Every detail and part on this guitar has been designed and worked out to the smallest detail during that period. Nothing is accidental. I'm glad when someone enjoys what I've created. That's the biggest reward, yes. It is made from one piece sapelle body and neck, ebony fingerboard, 24,75" scale, titanium fretwire, 2 carbon rods & 2 way ss truss rod, camel bone nut, handmade ebony/aluminium f holes, handwired single coils in handmade maple/alminium pickup covers, handmade maple/aluminium knobs, pure 99,99%silver wiring, free way 6 position switch, cts pro 500k, PIO, full tone jack, schaller tremolo& machines & strap lock, PUR finish, ergonomic back, weight 3850g .. My guitar masterpiece https://www.facebook.com/TonaMorskyGuitars/
  12. 1 point
    This is my first custom guitar. It is also my first themed guitar. Its called The "Atlantis spear".
  13. 1 point
    Ain't it cool how no matter how good a fretboard looks, adding frets makes it look better? SR
  14. 1 point
    That's a Frock, model Storm, made in Baltimore. https://www.frockguitar.com/
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