Jump to content

Voting for March 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - VOTE HERE!


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/17/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Scabbing in a piece to complete the neck tenon. I have to know how thick the top will be before cutting the neck tenon and angle. Wetting the surface of highly figured wood allows it to plane easily with out any chip out. SR
  2. 2 points
    Wipe the surface with a fairly damp cloth. Plane away the wet layer. Rinse and repeat until flat. It is a similar procedure to raising the grain with a damp cloth during the sanding phase. SR
  3. 2 points
    Cut the neck to rough shape, squared it up and then rough carved the headstock. SR
  4. 2 points
    Boy have I cashed in some brownie points this weekend! I really must get a random orbital sander Sanding by hand. 120 grit all over to remove the first oil coat, with special attention around the edge to get rid of ALL the scratches. Then 240 grit all over, followed by 400 grit all over. Not really much to see photo wise, but one of the most satisfying to me. When it's all properly smooth Then I managed to get a coat of oil on, including the neck this time. This time you will get a photo. The neck, while wet with oil, was like staring into a tiger's eye gem stone I did the body too, but the light was going by that time
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    Of the two guitars I built with the same problem as yours, the neck on 7 had 2x carbon fibre rods plus truss rod and was outlandishly stiff. The 8 had no reinforcement and a single truss rod. I'd be looking at other factors than the compliance of the neck.
  7. 1 point
    How coincidentally funny! I just ordered some Carnauba flakes. My wife said I can use the Beeswax candles she has made since burning them would give her headaches. And Turps, that's what I've had in my house for years!
  8. 1 point
    I feel confident you can pull off A. You just need the right drill bit (extra long), and it will be easier than you think.
  9. 1 point
    Back to raising goats: I wonder if Wes already has seen this piece of news: https://www.bbc.co.uk/newsround/45343152
  10. 1 point
    Further, the neck is both narrower and thinner at the headstock end so an evenly working truss rod would also allow for more release at the nut than at the upper frets.
  11. 1 point
    C might hit your lap when sitting. Between A and B, attach a nut with double sided tape to see which looks nicer. Even better if you can attach an actual guitar cord for a mock up - a flat top angled one should stick long enough, or an extension cord. I wouldn't worry about using a long drill bit. You can start with a shorter one and go perpendicularly for a good jack's length. Then change to a step drill and enlarge the edge of the hole to the right diameter. Then take a flat spade bit and enlarge the entire hole. When you've finished doing that the distance from the bottom to the control cavity will be much shorter. D as on the Jaguar or even something like on a Strat? Jag style of those two, definitely, unless you carve the recess instead of using a steel cup!
  12. 1 point
    Been there, done that. Also made one too thin once.... SR
  13. 1 point
    Wow! Our Man in Havana could have sent that to the intellicence services as a plan for a fenced secret nuke lab!
  14. 1 point
    It did not pass the “you can sit down and play it without losing ribs” test. So, quick plastic surgery and it’s great now. I spent a lot of today fine tuning the tuner holes with their little locator pins, refining the neck heel and final neck angle. After placing the tuners I realized that I made the headstock too thick after putting the veneer on. So I need to thin that somehow. Then I’ll glue in the neck. When I get some better weather I’ll do final clear coats. In the meantime, electrics.
  15. 1 point
    3rd coat of oil on the neck and I think I’m up to 8 now on the body. The limba pores have more or less completely filled in, with just a very small amount of textured grain, which I like very much. love the flame on the neck, the oil just brought that out. Probably a few more coats on the neck and I’ll be ready to assemble.
  16. 1 point
    It feels pretty good as a neck wood. Caves nicely. Feels a little soft, but held up just fine for the 7 string.
  17. 1 point
    Good job on the repair, certainly much better than using filler as that should only be used to fill small dinges and even then only on solid colour guitars. i have router issues of my own but am learning. I like the double bearing on your bit, means less likely to dig into and track your templates but also is good in case a bearing lets go.
  18. 1 point
    Shiny frets, done.
  19. 1 point
    Finally got round to glueing the neck on this one, I say finally but I was really just procrastinating over sanding all the grain-filler. Got that done and glued the neck in this evening. This time, trying to combat glue squeeze out around the neck pocket - something that seems to plague most of my builds, I have applied a modest amount of glue to the pocket and tenon with a paint brush. Then I used warm water and a toothbrush to scrub away all the excess thoroughly. Hopefully that combined with already having filled the grain will prevent white lines appearing along the joints and white flecks in the grain once I've sprayed it with lacquer. Touch wood... Something else I did this time, was to thin down some sanding sealer and lightly apply several coats on the inside of the f-hole with a brush to help prevent dye seeping into the edges - it's quite easy to stop dye spilling over the sides on the body but it's a bit more awkward with the f-hole. I'll be wanting to get this one stained and sprayed before too long. But with my humidity gauge in the garage reading 75% on a good day, I don't think that is going to happen any time soon.
  • Create New...