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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/29/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    One of the reasons for the detailed threads is to remember what I did last time. Like thicknessing the sides from 4mm to 2mm. Clearly not the block plane. But was it my No5 Bailey plane? Or scrapers? Or my scraper plane? Surely I didn't sand it? Well - tried them all. This one (the No 5) should have been the best: No - I remembered when in desperation I picked it up and tried it anyway. Yup - the block plane that 'isn't suited to this kind of task'. Sorted it in about 30 minutes And so cut them out to the template above's shape and soaked them both in the bath for a decent time: Primary tool is the electric bending iron: And then, coming up the bench towards the camera, it's a water spray bottle, sturdy gloves, the mould and - a flash of inspiration - the bits of body-shaped ply offcuts from making the mould stacked together and held tight in a vice: Red Gum walnut is new to me, but generally walnut is quite good to bend. But - that waist is as tight a bend as any I've tried. I moved the bending iron round to the sharper radius and worked slowly and carefully, re-soaking the wood frequently. It is VERY easy for the wood fibres to split if you over do it or - worse - snap. And if it snaps, it's a whole new back and side set - they are matched so you can't just get a set of sides! Doing it by hand, I could get to within 15 degrees of the required bend but just couldn't get it further. Then had the inspiration with those body-template offcuts. Could I pretend this was a Fox bender without the heat? And it b****y well worked!!!! The near clamp was just to hold the sheet in the right place and the far clamp - that started around an inch above the mould, just gently and continuously brought it closer and closer until it was fully in the waist 'V'. No splits, no cracks, no need to buy a new back and side set! So this is all in and will hold its shape pretty well when fully dry, but I will keep it in the mould until the edge kerfed strip has been put on top and bottom and then it will completely hold its shape even out of the mould
  2. 2 points
    The inlay is done in the same way as normal with the Dremel precision router base to cut out the chamber, having pencilled round the inlay to give me the outline: Next was cutting out the soundhole itself. I used the Dremel radius jig and same centre holes and a straight edge guide as for the purflings, but this time with the router bit at full wood depth. It did feel a bit like the guy sitting on the thin side of the branch he was sawing off! But, luckily, all was well. Still got to tidy it all up but it's basically done ready for the dishing and braces to be applied: Meanwhile, I started on the body mould. My admiration for the prehistoric engineers who sorted out getting the uprights square and vertical on Stonehenge has made a great leap: Gluing time will tell whether any of that has passed on down through the gene pool:
  3. 1 point
    The conversation went something like this: Him: "Loved that video of Matt Marriott playing the dreadnought acoustic you built for him" Me: "Why thank you!" Him: "I was just wondering. Could you make me a guitar bouzouki? Presumably you could use the same general arrangement but with a bouzouki neck and joining at the 16th" Me: "Absolutely. Yes - of course. Same principle. It's all just wood, after all, haha. And strings...it does have strings doesn't it...and...frets, hmmm, presumably and..well... well yes, yes, yes of course! Yes - the answer is yes!" Him: "That's great" Me: "It's been a pleasure talking about this. Have a great day. Bye!" Him: "Bye then." Me: (Thinks) What on EARTH is a Guitar Bouzouki??????? And so over the next couple of days I will bring you all up to date of what one is Best to treat this as a voyage of mutual discovery...
  4. 1 point
    This evening I started muddling through my first acoustic build. I got some free OM plans online in PDF form and got a few hard copies from my local printers (which is a much cheaper way to buy plans! 3 copies for half the price of 1 ordered online). I also got myself a premade OM mould from G&W - worked out £100 inc shipping, I still need to get myself a couple of radius dishes which I shall order when I need them and I also plan to make a gobar deck - as they're very expensive to buy. I'm using cheap wood for this one - black walnut back and sides and a "B" spruce top, which are on route from Maderas Barber, I also ordered a spare set of everything plus a set of ebony back and sides on the off chance that this goes well. Talking of going well, I started off by thicknessing down the back and sides to 2.8mm and the drum sander said Up yours. They're down to 3.5mm and I couldn't be bothered to change the paper over tonight so I moved on to jointing the top (I'll get them down to final thickness after glue up. I realised shooting board is only big enough for electric tops so I had to MacGyver something out of mdf. I then realised these pieces were not only longer but thinner than any pieces I'd glued up before and my big sash cramps and F clamps weren't going to work, so I did some more happy clamping and came up with this setup - the joint is raised up by 1/2" with those piano keys wedged underneath (they just happened to be in the inlay materials box and the right height), so I glued up, pulled the edges out from under it and put some pressure on the joint to keep it flat. That's all she wrote for now, I expect tomorrow evenings antics will start with changing the paper on the drum sander so I can get everything dimensioned, I also need to get cracking on Matts tele which I need the drum sander for too.
  5. 1 point
    I play a bit of mandolin so I am sure I will enjoy watching this build.
  6. 1 point
    All right, the Project 63B is now named "As Time Goes By" It's reached the point of test fitting all parts and checking for alignment. Not sure how that got there, oh well. .And as Shakespeare once said "And the Beat, it Goeth On."
  7. 1 point
    Also, finally got around to start finishing this: I've started using locally produced oil-based boat lacquer, both straight and mixed with oil varnish and oil thinner as a home made wipe-on solution. This body has a neck too, need to do the frets and add a MOP logo to headstock.
  8. 1 point
    After some time, guitar is ready for dye (to be done by customer's wife) and than should be back to me for assembly
  9. 1 point
    It's pretty much commonly accepted that we're standing atop the shoulders of giants. It does get to the point where one forgets who actually inspired you to do a certain thing, and it gets frustrating not being able to credit them. I've seen so many beautiful soundhole rosette designs - from the ornately involved and the superbly executed geometric types - that it's a complete mess upstairs! Funny, because many of the things I like are more because of how they are done rather than just being about the finished product. Maybe that makes it feel like one is able to walk in the shoes of giants? Nice mixed metaphor.
  10. 1 point
    I'm glad I finished mine last month and lost in a blaze of glory. This month is really next level, awesome job everyone
  11. 1 point
    Thanks Scott. There's something about the geometry, with the bridge being so far back, the whole body compressed in the lower part, the neck set really far into the body, yet clear access up to 24. It all compliments the fanned frets and just works. Hopefully with hardware, it's still balanced. I've got Sperzel open backs again which are super light, and the two Fishman pups plus battery should keep it there.
  12. 1 point
    Dense necks get a bad rap for neck dive, but I use them all the time and my guitars always balance right at the neck join. I may have said this before.....but this is sooooo sexy! SR
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    This is going to take a long time....which I happen to have plenty of these days. It truly is tough to carve, the sap wood is very fibrous. SR
  15. 1 point
    All dry, so this morning I got to add the neck and tail blocks: Although it will become much stiffer once the kerfed strips are put all the way round the edges top and bottom (these are the strips that the top and the back of the body will eventually glue onto), it's already holding its shape pretty well:
  16. 1 point
    Totally agree, makes a huge difference and feels like good progress is being made. Looking good, liking the layout of the fretboard markers.
  17. 1 point
    Despite dragging my feet a bit I've got some stuff done. I need to get this one close to being ready for the finish so I can turn my full attention to the Rick build. Cavities routed and a test fit of the neck template. It's a little loose but considering how cold it is at the moment and with low humidity I'm happy with that, less chance that in summer there becomes an issue with the neck pocket being too tight. And checking again that my choice of hardware colour is going to look ok. I need to rout the truss rod cavity in the neck then I can put my router back in the table and do the roundover.
  18. 1 point
    While cleaning the shop I found this. Circa 1978 found today. My wife gave me a full set of Blues harps on our first anniversary. She wanted to keep me playing. I can only think of the great musicians that playing a harp propelled me to meet and work with in the 70s and 80s. BTW who in the hell plays an A Flat harp? LOL!!! MK
  19. 1 point
    Brass inserts, too soft and easy to destroy the slot or strip the allen socket. I was thinking these may be tough to insert, but they were just right. Strength of the carbon steel helps me sleep. Coco was easy to tap, and even with the 5/16” hole, could be put in with fingers until the last couple threads. Screwdriver gave a nice firm finish. The 3/8” thread is quite coarse, will help me sleep well. @Prostheta Moar toanz was exactly my goal here with the extended range. Also, I didn’t want the neck to pop off.
  20. 1 point
    To my mind, that's the gold standard for a bolt-on neck joint; for the fasteners to be in high levels of tension and spread the load out over a large part of the heel and neck. Wood screws only go so far, and given enough torquing will strip out the wood. It can easily get to the point of wanting to believe that higher tension in the fasteners equals better coupling and moar toanz. Mechanically-sound and over-engineered never does any harm as long as it isn't pointlessly over the top.
  21. 1 point
    And a new toy arrived a couple days ago to replace my really cheap auto parts store gun that I had been using.
  22. 1 point
    Decided on a ‘double binding’ of aluminium and walnut. So far so good. I got the metal from a friends old caravan Hard to make out the fact it’s metal from the photo, but when it’s all radiused and polished up it should look pretty nice
  23. 1 point
    Smoking some meat for the weekend. 3.5lb Brisket Flat and 2 racks of spare ribs. @225* for however long it takes. mk
  24. 1 point
    Finished the purple one. Few things I could have done better I think, there is a slight seam visible on the headstock, I rolled over the edge of the headstock under the nut so it looks like there is a gap under the nut, both of those things annoyed me greatly. I think I washed out the colour a bit too much, especially, need to remember that the stained top prior to finish is not what final product will look like. But this is the 3rd single cut I've done and by far my best yet, plays bloody well too. I'll be delivering it at the weekend
  25. 1 point
    Managed to get a good quality decal print done. Must be an issue with the inks in my printer, so as I had some work to do at my parents house I used their printer. After a couple of hours sprayed them with clear, 3 coats spaced out and then cut to size and applied to the headstock... And the main logo on the body. Will leave them to dry fully over night and then the clear coats can be sprayed.
  26. 1 point
    And the purfling is in. Next is the swift inlay and then I can cut out the soundhole, using the same Dremel radius jig so that the corners are concentric with the detailing.
  27. 1 point
    So the next step is routing 'between the lines': And then cutting out some book-matched back/side wood to approximate shape ready for sanding to fit: And glued, ready to plane/sand flush and then re-establish the purfling slots: And while that was gluing, I made a start on the body mould: It's not fragile, it's plywood Just ran out of the other tape to hold it all still and together while I cut it through the bandsaw
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