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Entry for August 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - ENTER HERE!


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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/06/2020 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Sissy Sissy's got a black limba body, maple burl top and HS cap, East Indian rosewood neck and cavity cover. She's got Gotoh 510 Delta tuners, Graphtec nut, stainless steel jumbo frets, Klein '59 PAF pick-ups and a Babicz bridge. SR
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  3. 1 point
    Ohhh. That's what that retention bar looking thing is! Nice drilling template.
  4. 1 point
    hehe, I'm not using the cabinet from the old one... I'm building two new cabs from 5x5 sheets of baltic birch plywood. Just going to make a jig for the router - very similar to a circle cutting jig, but with a perpendicular strip of 3/4 x 3/4 at the edge. will allow me to cut a channel 26.5" away but parallel to the edge of the 5x5 sheet. then I'll ride that strip in the channel I just created, and create another channel 16.5" away from that channel... etc. basically allow me to cut up a 5x5 sheet of plywood into the 'squares' I need to build the speaker boxes. Anywho, I'll shut up now.
  5. 1 point
    Nope I can't even figure out what you're going to do with the cab, other than cutting it into half! FWIW I finally googled for fEarful 15/15/6/6 so I now know it's not about furniture. For some reason I was thinking about a pharmacist chest drawers with 6+6 bigger and 15+15 smaller drawers!
  6. 1 point
    By laminated I mean a blank that has been glued from at least two thinner strips, preferably something in between. People also talk about three/five/seven piece necks meaning the same. Like if you took the pieces you just sawed, placed them face to face so that the growth rings are mirrored and maybe put a skunk stripe in between for desired thickness. By a scarf joint being as strong or weak as a single piece I meant that both are weaker than a multi-piece neck. The grain direction in the glue joint isn't optimal although the fretboard adds strength to it - it's angled end grain. Also, if you just take a log and carve a neck out of it there'll be some pretty short grain in the neck break angle. In a multi piece neck the directions of the pieces counteract each other in case of a shock not to mention the several glue surfaces which have no direction at all. If the body and neck are of commonly used woods and the proportions are traditional, finding the balanced locations of the strap buttons with rope and tape indeed is a valid method. However, should you ever find out that you can't balance a guitar, knowing how much the body and neck weigh separately would help with the next build. Or, with a bolt on neck, knowing the weights would allow for swapping the parts to better matches.
  7. 1 point
    would be trivial to do before a radius, but in my case I bought radius/slotted board so... this is how I did it.
  8. 1 point
    Whew! That will give the rest of us a chance in GOTM!
  9. 1 point
    Way to go! How do you even decide which one to play? And, what’s next?!
  10. 1 point
    Lots of headway. Routed for battery box and jack plate. Fixed pickguard (with great effort!), sanding out scratches. Located and drilled for volume, pup switch and Fluence voice switch. Located and drilled string throughs and used the pin locating trick for back ferrules and STILL didn’t get it tight on. That has to be the single hardest operation in building guitars by hand. Also have a few coats of the Fiddes hard wax oil in the test piece, it’s a slammin’ finish, and super easy. Getting close. Need nut, frets, final neck shaping and finishing, drilling tuner holes, and wiring. When I had the neck bolted in (strong af) and the top and bottom strings on to locate the bridge, it got pretty exciting to look at. lol
  11. 1 point
    And clamp or stick the piece to a scrap piece of plywood and just route all the way through into the scrap. SR
  12. 1 point
    Well deserved, what an amazing display of craftsmanship. Cheers!
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  14. 1 point
    Congratulations. A good win against some stiff cometition.
  15. 1 point
    parallel cuts with the router... got a track fence? my ryobi has a track with quite a long reach, I expect it will be wide enough for a cab. If that's no good, make your self one of those marker stick things with a long stick, a stopper and a nail in one end to score your perfectly parallel line, then put a fence along the score to around against.
  16. 1 point
    Congrats Scott, couldn't have lost to a nicer axe!
  17. 1 point
    congratulations sir!
  18. 1 point
    May I be the first second third to congratulate you, @ScottR :) Great build and very well deserved win :)
  19. 1 point
    A well earned win, congrats!
  20. 1 point
    Congrats on the GOTM Scott. Was a great month, all very good builds.
  21. 1 point
    I'd like to comment as usual but can't fully understand what you mean. Pictures?
  22. 1 point
    I used to cut a hole in a towel and lay it over the guitar and wire through the hole. SR
  23. 1 point
    that dr sticker took me back to dri... "beneath the wheel...." thanks for that. that body looks sharp (see what I did there)
  24. 1 point
    How thin did you go? you'd be surprised how thin you can get away with on a fretboard, the DCs I'm working on are 4.5mm in the centre after radius, pretty sure the rosewood board on my fat strat is no thicker. In fact reducing the fretboard thickness is a good way to get a thinner neck without compromising too much strength under the trussrod
  25. 1 point
    new design looks great. is that olive or tamo ash? on my 'someday' list for sure. beauty against the turquoise. afa strap button... as mentioned it's better to be closer to the 12... but it also makes more/less difference depending on how heavy your headstock is. lighter tuners and a smaller headstock make a big difference. in your case the hollow cutout in the onk might work to your benefit. then again you've got a fair amount of body real estate so it may not matter. I have a hamer steve stevens that has very small horns and the strap is not far fwd... but 1.75" of mahog and a floyd rose trem ensure zero neck dive! afa straight slot... I built a simple little jig for doing this. I just used premium pre-cut stock from home depot since it tends to be straight... and built a little platform with two legs. I used shims between the platform to keep the fretboard level to the platform. I clamp the neck to it then just a 1/8" straight bit that follows the edge like a template. probably other/better ways but it was easy and worked great for me.
  26. 1 point
    Positioned on the back like #3 but closer to #2, making sure there's enough meat. #2 looks like either the strap would have to twist around the sharp edge or the guitar would be too upright for playing. @Andyjr1515 revealed things I didn't know about, good food for thought there! It's not stone carved, though, as the balance depends on the mass of the neck versus the mass of the body combined with the location of both strap buttons and fine tuned by the friction and width of the strap, the latter keeping the guitar in a desired position and spreading the weight on the shoulder. If you build several similar guitars weighing the neck and body separately will help uniforming the strap button locations.
  27. 1 point
    Ref the strap button position, there is another thing probably to consider first - the likelihood of getting neck dive. There is a 'goldilocks' zone where the strap button is in line with 12th to 14th fret. It is no coincidence that the strap button extender in your photo puts his front strap in line with the 13th fret. Much beyond 14th fret and the risk of neck dive increases. Your button positions 3 &4 I think get you closer to 17th fret. Maybe you could consider moving the whole bridge/fretboard/nut an inch or so towards the tailstock? I would have thought that would still give you decent fretting access to the top frets?
  28. 1 point
    I can't but second what @ScottR said. Very nice, very interesting. AFA the headstock angle, if you're making a laminated neck do it as one piece as it's the strongest. On a one-piece neck a scarf joint is as strong as one piece. (Did that make any sense?) For what I've heard from fellow builders stainless frets only take more time to finish and eat your files. Other than those the procedure is similar to any other material.
  29. 1 point
    My thoughts are I love the way you are taking your first design and advancing it. I also like the idea of carving the arm relief and belly carve together and ending up with a fairly narrow edge. Perhaps because I always do the same thing, and it is indeed very comfy. I've never made it down to a quarter inch edge tho- usually more like a half inch. I'll be watching this one. SR
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