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Showing most liked content since 03/25/2017 in Posts

  1. 9 likes
    True!... a sharp gouge is just fun. I've been carving the heel, that was a quick job. I will try to make kinda volute in the heel... Still needs some refining, but the big part is done. Sorry for the square neck profile, I need to clear out the surroundings before proceed with the neck carving. Have a nice weekend!
  2. 7 likes
    And that about catches y'all up to where I am at at the moment. Except for this new build Me and the lady just found out started a little while ago. I think this will be the best one yet!
  3. 6 likes
    the part I guess I am still not sure about is the bottom of the fretboard between where the neck angle starts and the bridge- its almost like (in my mind) the bottom of the fretboard would be flat until that neck angle- and then it would (if it was to be snug to the body and not overhang the body) have to angle forming a triangle from the neck angle to the bridge (I think?)- very interesting. you have my interest peaked big time on this. As far as your body radius- have you sorted out how you will do that? I had to do a 25" radius in a Turner Model One copy I did a few years ago- here is a pic- I laid out mdf board- held a 25" piece of string down at a center point off the board- took a pen and swiped the radius across the boards. made a "ghetto style extremely large" fretboard radius jig and went to town. that was a ton of fun. and clean up was easy with a little sanding and it came out great. (the jig was turned 90 degrees before use )
  4. 6 likes
    HAD A BABY!!!! It's a boy! Keegan Ash Deagle! 8 lb 10 oz. So far moma bear and cub are doing awesome! still has his days / nights mixed up... but getting there... In other news, I was able to get the frets in and start prepping for the back carve... hoping to get a little time to work on that today... almost ready for finish... then I have to find a place to hid the thing for a few weeks till X's birthday. also found a local place to buy 1 amp slo-blo fuses. my AX-84 high gain Frankenstein amp is blowing the fuse as soon as it's plugged in... the only things connected before the standby switch is flipped is the power cable / fuse / standby switch. you'd expect to find a short in there... but the multi meter reads none... so I basically have to start de-soldering items until I find the culprit... hopefully it's jus the switch and I can order a new one easily.
  5. 6 likes
    So here is the first casting of the "quilted" acrylic. I strafe-coated the topography - gold from bottom, silver boro from top. The two tone effect is not lighting - its actually gold on one side of the "quilt billows" and silver on the other side.
  6. 5 likes
    There was one fret which left a bit of a skid mark on the treble side, but any evidence has since been obliterated with the board being re-radiused. Back on to the neck, the heel has been reshaped to eliminate the beefy transition and the overall profile tidied up to remove any unevenness. There were a couple of lumps at various points that I've managed to level out, and narrowing down the sides has improved the overall slenderness of the neck without sacrificing thickness: The difference in heel transition is best illustrated here, with these obligatory before and after shots: And the black epoxy has also been scraped level and the logo finalised, ready to be re-sealed under clear.:
  7. 5 likes
    Exploder MS8 progress! Body rough cut and cleaned up in the drum sander: Routing the body outline. First step uses a spiral upcut bit with guide bushing, second is a very short template bit, final is a downshear flush trim. Some dude is in my shop, cutting out neck pockets. It worked out ok. Roughing the pickup and control cavities: Routing complete, now on a boatload of sanding. Next time: on to the neck. Thanks for looking!
  8. 5 likes
    Alrighty gentlemen. Had some progress happen this weekend. I've been avoiding gluing the fretboard on for quite a while... had some issues on my last build and it didn't go 100% to plan so overcompensated this time around... wound up with a 10000% straight neck tho... so I think i'll do it this way again.... Also finished the round over on the back side of the body + the binding channel on the front side... the arm contour was a complete hooker to do. I don't have one of them fancy jig's that follows the contour so I wound up marking the channel with a pencil and routing the channel in steps (you can see via the burning) then I cleaned it up with a chisel... my old school tool skills... are... well... severely lacking... so im rather proud of myself on this one.... sadly, I may run out of time on this build... gremlin #2 is due any day now... that's likely to put a severe hamper on my progress... as long as I fnish before may (his b-day) i'll be aiet... but figured I couldn't leave you all in the dark about my super secret finish..... took our little guy out to a fabric store here in town and let him pick out some fabric.... glued down with super 77 and filled with weldbond and leveled (Im trying desperately to avoid epoxy due to the fumes). all that's left is to clearcoat over with some waterbased polyurethane that I bought.... should look absolutely SICK once completed..... and it's spiderman,... so the little guy's gonna lose his nuggets....
  9. 5 likes
    Let's put some engineer theories to practice... ^^ According to the clamping pressure scheme that Prostheta shared earlier, and making use of a 40mm thick caul with the shape of the body, every clamp should cover about 80mm diameter around it, so I've made a circled template and start covering all the surface, marking the exact location of each clamp. That was cool because you don't have to spend time figuring where the clamp should be, which makes all the process a lot easier and faster. 27 clamps were needed for this operation. I got a clamp skyline. Hope it's ok, if I get a gap somewhere I will kill myself.
  10. 4 likes
    Everything went (mostly) as planned and I successfully surprised the guys with their new piccolo basses last week between sets at a gig. They seem pretty happy. Here's a shot of the the instruments before they were handed off: A ground came loose in the blue guitar, so Sean didn't get to play it plugged in until Friday night when I brought it to a jam session. Here's a video of him playing it literally for the first time (don't judge him for his singing or me for my camera work!): I am so stoked to be give these guitars to my bandmates. We all know that there's magic that happens when you turn a pile of wood and metal into a musical instrument and hear it make sound for the first time - the saying "the whole is greater than the sum of its parts" definitely applies here. There is even more magic when you take that newly minted instrument, place it in the hands of a skilled musician, and hear them make it come to life. Full pictures and write-up to come...
  11. 4 likes
    And here we are.... managed to finish her up JUST in time for the gremlin's birthday in about 2 weeks. Still needs the intonation set and the pickup heights tweeked but other than that she's as ready as she's ever going to be.... I'm not 100% happy with the water based poly / finish but not much I can do about it at this point in time. either way, should be one hell of a happy gremlin.... cuz shit yeah... it's Spider-Man....
  12. 4 likes
    On another forum, I've titled it, "A Bridge Too Far?" Definitely my most ambitious project yet... Another bass - but the one after this is going to be a 6-string electric! This one is not guaranteed to succeed but, if it does, will be most definitely in the ultra-modern camp. Its for Mick - do you remember the Alembic-like bass that was falling to bits a year or so ago? That was Mick's. Why is it ultra-modern? The shape - front and cross-sectional piezo under acoustic bridge + hidden magnetic pickup (not headless but) headless tuning, hidden hidden controls full-length, integrated fretboard single-cut ultra-slim (1" reducing to nothing) all white(ish) natural finish This is what I mean by the shape - basically Mick's design and an amalgam of some of the more unconventional specialist makers: The fretboard (fretted) will be set into the body, with a touch of 'neck angle' relief to allow for fingernail and pick clearance, but cross-sectionally will be like a 'contact-lens': This is why it might be a bridge too far...
  13. 4 likes
    I've always used the filling rubber (?) (we call it "muñequilla") in circles, but yeah, also gave some passes against the grain direction as you said... This time I've made a more liquid mix and it worked much better, so this is while rubbing... This is how it looks almost dried... And this is after sanding... It looks quite light but everything blends as soon I apply some mineral spirits... I should give another pass but man, that was hard work... it filled the holes at 50%, hope the nitro does the rest. Now it's ready for the nitro finish... sanded, masked and cleaned everything... just need to buy solvent and a brush. Cheers
  14. 4 likes
    Back from a week away but might not have huge amounts of time this week, as have to animate the brain of an addict. Oh what fun. I still haven't posted pictures of the Nuno N3 so thought I should, while the kettle boils. Here we go... Loved building this almost as much as playing it. Pickups are SD hot rodded pair and they suit it perfectly. The Bill & Becky XL500 would have been too shrill for me with the maple fingerboard. They may not as accurate but they sound great.
  15. 4 likes
    Token artsy shot. Test fitting the pickup and bridge hardware. I mentioned right at the head of this thread that I'd be considering fitting an ABM wraparound, however that would have ended up being the single most expensive piece of anything on this instrument. Not even an option at this stage! The scribbling in the neck pocket is from me checking the neck tenon for quality of mating surface on the lower side. This is something that is massively important since the tenon itself is angled, and needs to be perfectly perpendicular to the shoulders. As mentioned, this is needing to be re-cut anyway and brought down to about 1,5-2,0°. Reducing the angle at the shoulders removes material from the fingerboard side, and correspondingly will need the lower face of the tenon to be altered, mostly at the far end.
  16. 4 likes
    Hi guys, is not very orhtodox to me to start a new project without finishing the previous one, but here in Vienna I have a short timeframe with relatively good weather and I have to move fast otherwise I'll get stuck at some point. So I had a couple of pickups here around and I thought that it would be nice to make them sound somehow... so I need a guitar to hold them. Still waiting for the wood to arrive and quite busy at the moment, but I hope to give it a go as soon as I can. Here is the first mockup: Nothing special, just a superstratish I wanted to have since long time ago. The design is not 100% mine, the body contour is taken from a RAN crusher with some mods but the top carve is gonna be different, hope to have sucess this time. Specs are: - Madagascar Rosewood top - Alder body - Rock maple neck - Crelicam Ebony fingerboard, 666mm scale This will be the first time I'll make a scarf joint and a 6 in line headstock. I feel like a noob. Cheers!
  17. 4 likes
    Part three: The neck! This was a real pain in the... You know what! It was all done with a Stanley No.7 and a bandsaw. (Apart from the headstock angle... That was my No.4.) Neck side: Truss rod slot cut... In hindsight I probably should have moved the nut slot back so it wasn't directly in line with the nut... Next time I'll try to remember that... It looks like that planing was done badly... I thought so too, but it's straight as... Well my straight edge... It just has a really funky grain and figuring to it that makes it look wobbly. Neck rough cut... So close to test fitting... (And yes the body is like me... A little overweight, but I'm working on it ) I got so carried away with the rest I forgot to take pictures, But one more... Where the neck and body met on the first day, sorry about the quality but... It really is starting to look like a guitar now!!! Low lighting makes everything look kinda yellow but hey... It was a long neck making day and the sun had disappeared by the time I got this taken. There's a LOT more to do, more shaping, more routing and every woodworkers favourite past time... Sanding. But this is it so far, Thank you for taking the time to look at this project! Mike.
  18. 4 likes
    After leveling with the radius beam at 120 grit, we're left with this; Big improvement on what used to be there (at least in my very humble, vanishingly-tiny and insignificant opinion). Before I get too stuck into finishing the radius on the board by sanding through the grits I'll head back to the CNC and quickly cut a new logo for the headstock. Another rapid fire jig required to hold the neck in place - just a couple of threaded inserts underneath two of the tuner holes in a piece of MDF with big bolts passing through. A little piece of masking tape with a pencil mark to indicate where I want the logo to begin: Note the missing 3rd string tuner washer. I nearly lost it on the workshop floor when it fell off while putting the jig together, and I didn't notice it until I took this photo. Luckily managed to find it. The rest of the washers were removed shortly afterwards and bagged up in a ziplock bag for safekeeping. Then off to mix up some black-tinted epoxy and make a mess. This gets scraped level once the epoxy sets leaving behind the black infilled logo in the maple. Usually takes two applications to fill any remaining pin holes in the epoxy that usually form as air bubbles:
  19. 4 likes
    Not much to show for the last couple of days toil, but we've gone from this goopy mess...... to this more shiny erm mess (complete with ghostly hand) 1 dollop coat and 2 thin coats have been knocked back. The first coat really got a good hammering into the pores with my trusty Ikea card (other Swedish furniture stores not available). The resin has been sanded back (400 and 800) pretty much to the wood and is flat enough apart from a few stubborn lows around the cracks in the sides - I think I'm OK with this as at the beginning I wasn't even sure they'd survive this far. I don't know if its the thing to do, but after the final sand I've wiped on a very thin coat of resin with a towel to even out the colour - maybe it'll deepen the finish once sprayed - who knows, but it does make the box look less horrific and seals things nicely. The neck blank arrived so I can busy myself building a sensible neck. To the drawing board for that first though. Don't mind binning 1 blank for a project, 2 is foolhardy.
  20. 4 likes
    So here's a tip for you Steve from a pro finisher about your inlay powders. If you want the reflective metallic look, you cant just mix the powders into any binder, epoxy or CA and expect them to look good - will be muddy. All metallic powders, micas, pearls, polyester flakes and borosilicate pigments are tiny little, FLAT platelets. The goal is to get the platelets to lay down and orient themselves FLAT so they reflect back at you. In the coatings world (I was a coatings chemist for five years) this is called "leafing" in order to get "specular reflection" of a good metallic coating. This can only be done by solvent based binders (lacquer, urethanes, etc) and is real tricky with epoxy, but can be done. If you mix the powders in pure epoxy or CA or any low solvent binder, they all "set" in disorientation, and look muddy - absolutely ZERO specular "leafing". You want to carve your inlay, then coat the interior of your raw inlay with epoxy in order to create a super flat smooth interior. Then you mix the powders with a bit of lacquer, and lots of solvent, and air brush the interior of the inlay in real thin coats. Even a rattle can of metallic car touch up paint will do this better than metal powders in glue (the way I think you are going). You cannot skip the epoxy pre-coat step, unless you carve the inlay without rough burrs, and you sanded the interior of the inlay well. Then after the metallic has been applied in thin coats to the bottom and sides of the inlay, you can now fill the inlay with clear epoxy, and it will magnify the metallic look that the powders were designed to look like. It will be WORLD of difference. You can test your powders for specular reflection by smearing the powder onto the back of your hand. If it reflects nicely, then they are platelets, and need to be highly solvented in spray application. If they look same when smeared, then the powders are just granulated, and will only look the same as organic pigments. Specular leafing looks like this, but inside the inlay.
  21. 4 likes
    The bending iron was on early this morning and the tops bindings were done by half 8, glued on by 9. For the bindings I used water thinned titebond and taped with cheapo masking tape. As the bends were a good fit, not much pressure needed at all. There are a couple of gaps here and there, but nothing to be concerned about. The one thing I'm quite pleased about is the mitring around the wedge. A simple 3 ply purfling was added to the top and secured with super glue wicked into the channel from the outside edge. I could have done a much better job butting the white purfling together at the join, but again, I'm not crying over this and am reasonably happy for this as a first attempt. I'm halfway through scraping this down in the second picture - stopped for tea. This afternoon - binding the back. Whoop.
  22. 4 likes
    Ahh, I see! It'd be interesting to experiment with, at the very least. Sapele/maple 7 sanded.... And oiled!
  23. 4 likes
    Thanks guys! Ok, so here it is: As I said, not what I was looking for, but still can work I guess.... at least is more ergonomic than the original carving. It still needs some work. I have to remove all the bumps in the mahogany stripe and I wish I can remove also that dark stain in the top, I think it will disappear after some sanding... let's see. Cheers!
  24. 3 likes
    Last thread was just a feasability study - thanks for all your input guys - it really did help, and I continue to need feedback, as I am still only a four month old in my guitar building phase (but 30 years old in high-end woodworking / composites). I am getting my rough milled basswood body blanks from my luthier tomorrow, and he is working on my custom spec necks so I decided to start a new thread to kickoff these "different" builds. This build thread needed an easier title too, as "Elliptical cross section body for T-formed acrylic" is about as interesting as Chenglish instruction manuals. Look up that thread if you want background info on these builds. Will be posting pics of recent castings in 1/4" acrylic like this one below for a few days, as the color possibilities are endless, given the endless metallic / pearlesecent / borosilicate pigments available now coupled with the masking technique I recently figured out on this stuff. After doing a half dozen or so panels, I will be choosing three to do the first three guitars with. Kind of set on this "Fire" panel for the 2nd one and the gold / silver boro in the "Quilt" pattern as # 1. The dichroic inlay tests went very well too, so the necks will have the appropriate color inlay according to the body panel choice.
  25. 3 likes
    you either think this is sexy- or fugly. either way, I had a chance to play one of these, and I knew immediately after playing it I had to build one. Heavy as hell, big as hell, but there was something about it that just drew me in. I had so much fun building a carl thompson copy a number of years ago- I wanted to build something that required carving. This puppy requires carving alright. creating the basis of my drawn out plans. the lovely 6 string TOM bridge that hipshot built me- thanks to Prostheta for suggesting I give them a ring. I ended up having to slightly increase the butt end of the bass due to the string spacing on this bridge. the 8/4 hondo mahog board that will become the body. ritter uses 3 piece maple for the neck so I will follow suit. body glued up, I will run this in my router thicknessing bed and bring it down to just north of 1.5" thick.
  26. 3 likes
    And I got more work done freeing his legs. Poor little guy has a bad case of toenail fungus. His proportions are still rather puppy like. Getting them closer to adult reality will be one of the last things to happen. Funny how that works. SR
  27. 3 likes
    On to fretwork! I've gotten them installed and flush with the fretboard. Installing frets was not as difficult as I had imagined it would be, There are at least two that will need special attention since I got a bit hammer-happy right at the end of the frets and managed to hammer them in to the fretboard a fraction of a millimeter. I still need to bevel them, so that's more jig making but even as it is (Neck un-carved, frets un-bevelled ect.) it's more comfortable feeling than some of the guitars I've played in music shops lol. And after about an hour or so of flushing them... (Could probably have gone faster but at this stage I really don't want to mess things up too bad and make more work for myself down the line... I broke out the CNC for one last job on this which was the truss rod cover. As you can see though, my earlier mistake of truss rod placement has come back to haunt me... I know it will be hidden under the nut but I'll always know it is there... Still maybe a little thick and may need some thicknessing... Won't know until I get it to the point of testing before finishing. But for now a truss rod cover is a truss rod cover... Still needs more sanding ect. but it works. I decided against inlaying this as I really don't think I could've freed the inlay without breaking it as the lettering is so small. (I actually had to make the text bigger to fit my 0.6MM bit, or 0.023622" to you imperial guys!) And finally some rough hardware pics of the body... The pickup rings are from an older guitar I'm re-finishing, The ones for this guitar will be shiny and new! The rest of the hardware will be what's on the guitar, and the blank space is for a 3 way pickup selector switch. I may be keeping that pickup in it (Bridge only, neck is a DiMarzio D-Activator bridge) But I'm not sure. It's a custom wound (By me) few thousand over-wound humbucker but still has a vintage-esque sound to it... Like it's not a metal humbucker at all but still has a decent amount of output. Not sure if it's beaten-up look will work yet but I can always wind another for this guitar if I feel I need to. Just roughly plonked on top... Closer up of the pickup... Pole-pieces are still low from the "ageing" process. And that's all for now. Mike.
  28. 3 likes
    OK - with the concept sorted, it's time to start cutting wood : Don't look at the appalling mess behind the bandsaw. Depending how big the piece of wood is depends whether you get a shot of the mess or the more tidy and ordered part of my cellar-workspace. This bandsaw is the smallest bearing-guided one I could find, but the biggest I could actually physically get into the cellar. I have it on a very neat 'lift and move' wheeled trolley so, where the length is needed (like here), I just foot-pedal lift it onto castor wheels, pull it out of its normal station and twist it round 90 degrees then lower it back onto its fixed feet. Then when it's done, just reverse the operation and pop it back into its (relatively) neat station. Anyway, 10 minutes later we have something that is starting to look much more like a bass!
  29. 3 likes
    Changes were made... After trying to clean up and recover the end of the fretboard it was pretty clear that the side binding wasn't going to survive in a manner that would be usable for the existing shape of the fretboard end. After hours of futzing with it I decided to take a different tack. I came up with an alternate fretboard end shape, ripped off all the bass side binding, reshaped the fretboard end, made a new caul, heated and pre-bent the binding, etc. I was able to use one piece of binding for both the fretboard end and bass side. The glue up became a bit more complicated, but I think it worked out OK. Here's a pic after getting everything scraped clean and sanded up through 12000 grit micro mesh. You can see the original shape of the fretboard penciled in on the fretboard extension. Since this pic I've marked out the board for the side dots. Hopefully this evening after Easter festivities with the fam I'll have time to drill and install the side dots and possibly get the board fretted...
  30. 3 likes
    I was going for a "are you experienced" album cover type of photo, but- eh- the bald head in the photo sort of killed that.
  31. 3 likes
    Yes - sliders were an option like on some acoustics - as were the teeny 'trim' pots you get on some effects pedals. Having said that, the mini-pots should fit. If, in real life, it doesn't quite fit, then there are those other options to try out. Onto other parts of the spec. It is intended to be basically all white! Well, certainly from the front. I've managed to get hold of some lovely bookmatched wavy sycamore for the main body wings and then matched that with a 5-piece through neck of maple and ebony. The full-length fretboard will also be maple, not shown here yet: Because the design is offset and single cut and book matched, there is a LOT of wood wastage...but that can't be helped. Here's broadly how the body shape fits into those pieces: The neck will be inset around 7mm and the fretboard continuous right up to the tail end. The body will be compound curved to give a pseudo 'neck angle' to ensure there is at least a little clearance between the strings and the body top at the hand playing position. You can see the angle joint - which will be rounded off with the fretboard curving a few mm downwards rearward from where the frets end. This is one of those 'think about it a lot, then cut a little bit, then put it down and think about it a lot more!' projects
  32. 3 likes
    His eyes are a bit buggy still. They will likely be one of the last things finished. SR
  33. 3 likes
    Hi Done a little bit of work on guitar. I routed the neck pocket and I am pretty pleased with that I also started shaping the neck using a rasp, a fie and some sand paper. All I can say is this is a time consuming job, another first and very rewarding: I've already made many mistakes on the neck but I believe how well I recover is how I will learn from my mistakes.
  34. 3 likes
    Hi, All Just heard that my piccolo bass is featured "Bass of the Week" this week in the excellent (well, I would think that, wouldn't I ) US-based e-zine No Treble. The link is here I now need to suck lots and lots of lemons to get that stupid smug grin off my face Andy
  35. 3 likes
    Almost there! This is the most heads-down focused I've been on a build. Amazing what a deadline will do. Necks and bodies are shaped, frets installed, bodies stained, necks set, and now I'm going to spend the next few days applying coats of truoil. I actually might finish these in time! -- BEGIN PROGRESS PHOTOS --- Neck pre-carved. I used the facets approach which seems to work well. I'm learning - the initial facet can be used to determine the shape ranging from a "D" with the line closer to the edge, then a "C" a little closer to the center. Move a little closer to the center and it's a "soft V", and then a hard "V". A little too "D" shaped, so I worked it down after this. The single-cut as a cool heel. Working on the bodies. I did a hard bevel on the single cut and a rounded bevel on the double cut. Filing away... Starting to look like guitars. I did a black stain and sand back on the double cut, and a brown stain and sand back on the single cut. The black looked really cool - I almost kept it that way. Necks glueing in. At this point, I wasn't very happy with either color. I woke up this morning determined to cover the yellow with black and just go "stealth guitar". But after I saw what a coat of oil did to the blue, I changed my mind with the yellow. The truoil adds a little yellow to the blue to darken it and make it richer, plus the way it brings out the wood is just ridiculous. Here's the blue after one coat of oil: And the yellow. I tried to do a faux binding on it, but the coloring difference between the top and sides of the maple isn't very apparent. Now they are quietly drying. I'll be putting on two thin coats of oil a day until Sunday morning, when I leave for a few weeks while they sit. When I get back, I'll have a day to install the electronics, get the hardware on, and get them setup before the big "reveal".
  36. 3 likes
    Kind of you to say Scott, though there's been a lot of swearing and head scratching to get to this point. The linings went on yesterday. I ditched the idea of solid linings in favour of kerfed. Lifes too short.... I glued them on with about 1mm over the ribs edge and once set sanded on the discs. Some areas needed a bit of encouragement to sit properly, hence the draconian clamping. Today I sorted out the rib supports. nibbled out whole blocks whereth support lies and glued accross the face of the ribs. Perhaps not the usual way, but I wanted to see if some of the cupping from bending could be taken out. It seems to have worked somewhat and suprisingly looks OK too. Another trip to the dishs and the tops and bottoms are nicely radiused. Apart from that not a lot to show. I've bought some back and side sets for future projects so mch of the mornings been spent cutting spacers..... Cheers Matt
  37. 3 likes
    Hi there, as promised, here are some shots of the (almost) finished instrument. I still need to do the fretjob but I wanted to check if everything was in place. BTW, I had to recess the bridge as it was too high. Need to find a way to be more precise calculating the neck angle. Apart from that, everything else looks good. Can't wait to play this bitch. Hope you like it!
  38. 3 likes
    Thanks guys, let's see if I can finish before the winter comes... Feel too lazy to sand lately, I think I need extra motivation... so I'm making small things instead, like fitting the electronics and stupidities like that. I've tried both black and creme plastic pickup rings and they didn't convince me, so I've spent the whole weekend making a pair of matching pickup rings. They are three layers, just to keep the style of the top and the headstock. Since the neck has some angle, they have different height. Also made an alternative truss rod cover... I wanted to try something more "tech" but got a potato... anyway... still needs some work. I must say that the screw close to the nut gets through the hole and touch the truss rod, so I have to cut it. Not really the best system in the world, totally missed that drawback...
  39. 3 likes
    Thanks Scott. I was busy this weekend and couldn't make much progress, but hey... I put the logo. This time I've used a sheet of perloid... once it's sanded it looks very similar to MOP, and is quite cheap. I think I have enough for 50 more alien heads.
  40. 2 likes
    kept the off cuts from the fingerboard- glad I did- I need a truss rod cover. might as well match the fingerboard truss rod cover roughed out. Free nut blank courtesy of Home depot- just go to the counter top section where corian is sold- open the drawers- there are samples galore. I didnt want a white bone nut here, nor brass- and I have used corian saddle blanks before (they are great for undersaddle pickups.)- anywho- this color is "deep night sky" and tomorrow morning it will become a nut. Thanks Home Depot!
  41. 2 likes
    Latest build to be completed; custom 6-string KM-II with Black Walnut body, Maple/Black Walnut neck, Cocobolo fretboard, Gotoh hardware and BKP Nailbomb covered set, finished with Tru-Oil...
  42. 2 likes
    Before performing the crowning I re-paint the fret tops with the permanent marker. Some people don't bother with this step, but I find it helps makes things a bit easier to see as I'm going. Once again, the aim of the game is to only use the crowning file to remove as little material as possible. I'm aiming to file so that there is just a weeny bit of a red permanent marker line remaining on the fret top, indicating that I've only reshaped the sides without lowering the height of each fret. I also wear one of those headband torches, so I can put as much light onto this process as possible: All 24 done: Fret edges get bevelled now. I do this early as there is a risk that I'll slip and scuff up the fret top. Doing the edging early means that I can polish out any slip-ups with the various sanding grits. Doing it later means that any slip-ups will necessitate going through the polishing process all over: Then on to polishing. Work my way up through the grits from 600 to 2000, then a final buff with the Dremel before wiping any excess scuzz off with a cloth: Useful tip: have the neck secured in some way so you don't have to touch it while you're polishing the frets. It tends to be messy work, and any crap on your hands can easily transfer to that pristine timber. Wash yer hands before you handle the neck again: Useful tip: remember the earlier post where I wrapped the edges of the masking tape up with a long strip on either side of the neck? Here's where it comes in handy - for removing all the small strips of tape in one piece: Before/after shot. No more popping-uppy frets or sticky-outy edges:
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    I think I've sorted the final prototype rig - how to get a hidden magnetic pickup close enough to the strings... Forgive the knotty softwood I used but I rigged up a version of the above concept. The pickup I have at hand doesn't have screw-poles but I have one on order that does. Pretend it is that I am using. Here's basically how the pickup will be fitted at the back of the bass (it will have a cover flush with and matching the neck): From the top with the fretboard removed (remembering there will be the four screw pole pieces): Then using the carved archtop thickness carving trick: ... ...a slot is carved into the back of the radius-profiled fretboard around 1mm- 1.5mm from breakthough: Once the fretboard is fitted the slot will correspond to the pole-pieces on the pickup: Wind up the pole pieces as far as they will go in the space and, from the top, it looks like this: ...but the coil is actually only 4mm from the fretboard top and the pole pieces are 1.5mm from the top. This should mean poles 3.5mm or so from the strings and the coil around 6mm - this should work
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    I'm working on finding Cody's front legs... SR
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    I continued this over here thanks to you guys. http://www.projectguitar.com/forums/topic/48886-projectguitarception/
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    I also meant to post these as they've been done for a good long while... this one sat with its inside edge in a black bath of like 1.5" deep for about 8 hours. The capillary action really wicked the black up far. Second bath with vacuum for 8 hours was green. Not sure I like the darkness the black gave on this one very much. Next one is probably my favorite so far! 8 hour bath in purple. Second bath with 8 hours of vacuum was red. As per current process, both initial baths were purely soaking baths, no vacuum, and obviously the color of the first bath was cured and sanded prior to the second. Pics are of both faces. Best, Chris
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    Weeeeeeeee.....!!!! Oops. I meant, "wheeeeeeee!!!".
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    Sanded down, masked up and ready to dye the back tonight
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    That's a wrap: Obligatory noise file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/azvlosqnitfkbho/Shoestring Test.mp3?dl=0
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    Hi there, I'm back! This summer we have temperatures very close to Venus' surface and guitar building is nearly impossible, the mini workshop is like a sauna... but I decided stop complaining and ge back to work. I've been working this week on the neck, just flattening the back side and cropping the headstock: I'm gonna use a TOM style bridge, so the neck must have an angle, one degree to be more precise. In order to get the angled heel, I need to raise the area where the headstock is, so I've added a 8mm stick under the nut and routed all the back side. I got a new toy: a set of drum sanders which I also can use in the press drill. I've changed the design of the headstock. It was a last minute change, cause I thought the original one was too agressive. This one is a lil bit more elegant, I guess... ... but still killer... That's all for now. Cheers and thanks for watching!