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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/26/2019 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    I picked up some lumber a week or so ago, with just the barest of ideas of what I wanted to build. Guitars have bodies and necks, though, So I was able to clean up some edges and glue some pieces together, whilst I figure out where this is going. For the body I got some of the lightest black limba I've ever found. I scribbled up some body ideas and came up with one I like. This borrows quite a bit from an electric mandolin I made a few years back. SR
  2. 4 points
    I know a Titebond joint is reputed to be as strong as the wood itself, but I felt the need of a dowel: Then, with mating faces flat and clean, the block was glued on: Then a bit of bandsaw, a bit of chiselling and a LOT of sanding, we had a new Nanyo-dimensioned lower horn: See what I mean about those dark grain marks being useful as a distraction to your eye? The actual join is here:
  3. 4 points
  4. 4 points
    the sword is done. materials used: stainless steel for the blade, MOP, green abalone, walnut with brass stripes for handle, copper wire for little dots at the top of handle.
  5. 4 points
    The off-cuts are cool. It looks like drops of thick mud were piled up and then hardened into wood. The tops is 1.75 inches thick. I'm seriously temped to do some really deep carving...but I'd be starting with a body 3.5 inches thick. That would leave a bunch of highly figured wood chips on the floor. That's the first time I ever did that. Book matched one piece tops.... Using water makes this figured wood much easier to plane.... And it makes it look good too. SR
  6. 4 points
    So I kinda dropped the ball on posting this one, but it's done now and I'm really happy with it so here it goes! After finishing up my bass I still some sapele left over that was just long enough for a thru-neck blank, which made for a great excuse to start a new build. Took a quick trip to the local lumberyard and got some thin wenge to use as neck runners and a nice piece for a fretboard. The best find though was a 10ft x 7in x 1in board of quilted maple that was in a clearance bin for $25. It was too thin to bookmatch but I was still able to find some nice parts of it, plus I can probably get tops for 2 more build out of it. The lovely clearance rack maple Went with a very PRS-ish shape, but offset a bit and added a an arm carve, also did quite a bit of chambering which kept the finished product around 7lbs. Aaaaand this is why I love building thru-necks, so much carving that can be done. I ended up copying the neck profile off my Schecter that I've played since I was 12 just because that's what I feel the most comfortable with, but I made it just a bit thicker. 22-24mm flat-ish C neck with a 14" radius fretboard, feels great to me. I also tried my best at getting a somewhat matching back plate, worked out ok. Inlays are just maple off cuts. Frets went pretty good, wenge was surprisingly easy to work with though I didn't do anything hard with the inlays, decided to keep it pretty clean and simple (though really it's because I'm scared to do crazy inlays like a lot of you guys on here can do). Color was tricky on this one, I got the whole set of crimson guitars stains to play with and I first I was thinking some kind of teal/ blue burst, but none of my tests came out quite right. This cheap maple was very soft and added an amber hue to most colors, really didn't react well with blues and greens. I ended up with this sort of red/ maroon thing that looked pretty good and I just ran with it. It's cherry red on the whole body, then royal blue on the edge blended in with a lot of water to bring out the highlights a bit more, pretty happy with it. Body after one coat of just the cherry red Stain done but no finish, I liked it best here, the oil I used to finish made the burst a bit less noticeable. At this point I was really happy with how thing thing was coming along, so I decided to spend a bit more on hardware than my last few builds. Nothing crazy, whole build is still at under $400 total, but I went with Gotoh hardware and got an almost new set of Gibson 490/498 pickups out of a 2016 LP studio for $80 (these sound great). Did the switching similar to a PRS Paul's guitar with coil splits on separate mini toggles. And here she is (with a super not staged workbench set up)! Soooo happy with how this turned out, plays exactly how I wanted with great access all the way up the neck, and I love how the arm carve flows with the rest of the top carve. This will probably be my last build for a while as I'm going in for surgery on my left hand in a couple weeks to fix an old injury, then I head off to college in September and have to leave my shop behind, will definitely be taking this guitar to school with me though ! Cheers, Graham
  7. 4 points
    Gradually building up the layers again. This time instead of applying, letting a coat dry then wet sanding between coats, I’m putting a coat on, letting it dry, then sanding the following coat in with wet and dry and wiping off excess. Not sure why I didn’t do that in the first place because it worked for both the v and the single cut. This is after sanding in 1200. I’ve got p2000 up to p5000 so I will keep adding coats until I get to my finest paper before buffing, though looking at it as is, satin does definitely work with ziricote
  8. 4 points
    day 6 and 7!!! fretboard sloting table jig,
  9. 4 points
    Yesterday I put together a quick neck carve radius gauge ready for this evening. I scanned the main plans onto the computer then used Inkscape to re-draw the curves. With a bit of manipulation and arranging, I printed, laminated and set about it with the xacto knife So then I rough carved around the 1st fret (as seen above) and the 12th fret, then joined them together - all with the trusty shinto rasp After a bit of scraping, filing and sanding, we are now about 0.5mm over the radius of the '58 spec. It feels a chunky neck at the moment! There's still a bit of sanding to do Finally, some tools of choice... Concave cabinet scraper and a 120 grit sanding block/level The vicious half round file I mentioned the other week It certainly has some bite
  10. 4 points
  11. 3 points
    Wound a set of JBass pups... then a set of hot 54 Strats
  12. 3 points
    I like to drill the tuner holes before cutting the headstock to its final thickness.....like I ever do that. Those of you with pristine organised shops can just bite me! I 've got a squeezed little corner of the garage and I fill it up and use it. I've been squaring up edges after rough cutting the neck. It's a little tough to tell where the cocobolo stops and the rosewood begins... SR
  13. 3 points
    So, feeling a little bit foolish that it hadn't occurred to me immediately, I found a suitably large area of the donor body and attacked it with my modest (but surprisingly accurate) bandsaw: And, there we have it: This: To this: I've enjoyed all of the builds and mods I've done for Mick, but there's something a little bit extra special about giving an old guitar or bass a new lease of life As always. thanks for watching
  14. 3 points
    Thanks, folks Not entirely sure what wood it is, @mistermikev, but probably a variation of ash or alder. The grain looks like ash but the workability and weight feels more like alder. I'm sure when folks around here see it - particularly once some finish is on it - someone will be able to pin it down definitively. It's been a while since I've done a veneer job, so it was nice to be asked to do this one. It has also reminded me that I have an incomplete draft tutorial waiting to be finished...from YEARS ago! I shall try to find time to finish it For this quick photo update, I won't go through all the detail but - as a number of you will already know - I basically iron it on. This is my basic kit: I actually use an old heatshrink iron for the job, rather than risking MrsAndyjr1515's wrath of PVA stains all over our respective shirts and blouses, but it serves the same purpose. First critical job - because you'll never find some of them once the veneer is on - is making a simple paper impression of any chambers, fixing holes, etc before they are covered over: Then I use the mini sponge decorator's roller to apply an even but complete coat of PVA to both the body and the veneer: I repeat it to ensure full coverage and then leave 20 minutes or so for each to dry: Note the PVA is wrapped round the initial curved edges of the body - this is quite important. Because both faces are dry, you can spend as much time as you like (days, if you want!) lining everything up. Then, I just iron it on! The heat melts and merges the PVA and as soon as it cools (10 secs or so) is fully bonded. And it's repeatable. And you can stop halfway through and come back to it. Then, to see better where the edges are, I rough cut some of the excess off with scissors: I keep the offcuts - I will use those later. Then with the iron, I start working to bond the veneer around the edges, using repeated firm pressure to mould it round the initial curve of the body edge. Once I am certain that the edges are bonded, I trim with a scalpel or similar, using the body itself as a 45 degree blade guide: Then carefully scalpel out the chambers, etc: And finally run a sanding block along the line of the join to smooth the veneer-to-body transition and (important) remove any residual PVA from the joint and the body wood: Start to finish, all of the above took me about 45 minutes.
  15. 3 points
    Inlaid. Going to bind this with black andput a few coats of tru oil on. I figure it'll be easy to touch up if I'm banging on it with a pick. The pick guard cavity will be routed into the body on a slight angle. Really looking forward to the next part.
  16. 3 points
    Here's the dry fit. Black fiber worked really well. Glue tomorrow
  17. 3 points
    Prepare for a very dry update! The first pickup ring is basically ready to go, apart from tidying up one screw countersink, and I'll cut the 3º angle in when I have both ready. I took more photos than this post deserves: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  18. 3 points
    I’m scratching out my first full size guitar. Going for a ludicrous glam rock feel!
  19. 3 points
    I was doing daddy day care this weekend, my 20-month-old daughter was wanting to play outside so I got her some water and washing up liquid and she was quite happy making bubbles with her little wand thing. So with her entertained, I went into the garage to do a bit of tidying up, poking my head round every few seconds. After 10 mins or so she got bored of bubbles, came into the garage and said guitar daddy. Then she picked up a block of wood that the dog and left by the door, picked up a scrap of sand paper I just dropped, sat on the step of the workmate and started sanding it. Worlds cutest luthier in the making.
  20. 3 points
    I made a load more sawdust tonight. Using my favourite 'D' shaped piece of molding wrapped in 40 grit bonded paper... I refined the heel a bit... and the headstock transition/mini volute... Then I set about the neck with my 120 grit sanding block That's pretty much the '58 spec I've got. It's still quite chunky, so I'll let the future owner have a bit of a feel before taking any more off
  21. 3 points
    No work on my actual guitar but I did try out some Odies Oil and my electronics cavity cover concept on my wife’s birthday present. The top is held on with magnets and you push on the corner to pop it off.
  22. 3 points
    Here she is. Got a few cracks as I set some but moving forward. On to the pickguard.
  23. 3 points
    I also had it in my head I wanted to a make a pau ferro neck, as I was really enamored with the one @komodo made for his metal tele build. My wood store did not have any pau ferro. It did have some nice big East Indian rosewood timbers though, so I went that route. It should have a similar look, and I've always wanted a rosewood neck.......or two. SR
  24. 3 points
    working on my video skillz... trying to make it easier to do videos and learn how to edit better. whipped this up... I hope you'll watch and tell me your thoughts. youtube video
  25. 3 points
    From the bottle like the heathen that I am.
  26. 3 points
    Finished, ready to be played.
  27. 3 points
    Thanks a lot I was preparing to make a quick jig for dowels like before, piece of wood drilled with a clamp and a chisel, when I saw my box with dies Pure luck Here's where it's at now - I'll make a bone nut and drill for gibson-style tuners I got in the mail. Still waiting on the piezzo... 2-IMG_20190526_124327 by Goran P, on Flickr 3-IMG_20190526_124347 by Goran P, on Flickr
  28. 3 points
    Very helpful bud, thank you! After sealing, I decided I'm pretty happy with it after all, so I've started putting some poly over it. At this point, the walnut went POP I dropped a bollock though because the control cover has more flaming than the headstock There is a hard edge at the start of the heel, so I'm planning to tidy up the edge along the sids where the maple laminate is and have that line as the start of the oiled neck which will hopefully look seamless.
  29. 2 points
    Some of you may remember the El Pish which participated in the GOTM contest in April. Well... I had not given her the attention she needed simply because I just didn't like the neck. It was good for noodling but there's no noodlers in this house... So I took her outside to the garden and spent the afternoon with a scraper, a sanding beam, a half round file and some sandpaper. The neck changed shape from something more common in classical guitars i.e. with a flat center to a modern C. Sanded to 320 grit, wiped with a damp rag to raise the grain, sanded again with 400, raised the grain, sanded with 400... Rinse and repeat until no grain raised. Applied some Osmocolor clear and rubbed it in with 1000 grit wet'n'dry, wiped the excess off. After some hours now it's playable but not fully cured. I can say it suits my hand much better now so an afternoon well spent! Maybe next year I may find the volute area or the body join to be too chunky and redo one or the other, or both. Or maybe not. The beauty of wood is that you can redo everything as long as it requires reducing material.
  30. 2 points
    Hi, after some mounths, I come back with another project. This is a guitar in the line of Jackson with some new features in the design, in shape and expecially in the combination of woods. I begin for the neck, it is a 7 layer multilaminated neck alternating Spanish wallnut and European maple. I glue the pieces with the help of my homemade press. Some pics of the process: After 24 hours, I planed the surfaces until its definitive thickness. It's time to make the truss rod channel with my homemade jig: At the same time I prepare the body. For this I`ll use swamp ash for the wings of the body and a central block made out of a combination of wallnut and mapple. The top is poplar burl: Here is the laminate of the central block. This combination is for two reasons, one is for adding an extra weight to the body, due to swamp ash is very light, and f0r an effect I try to achieve in the zone of the heel of the guitar Once the top is bookmatched and the central block laminated, is time to glue all the elements together in two different days. After rough cutting with the band saw, the guitar looks like as follows: Now is time for sanding the sides of the body, difficult work due to the pronounced peaks: Scorpionscar
  31. 2 points
    Bound the pickguard and did a little spot checking. I'll cut and sand everything flush. And finished. Best inlay so far.
  32. 2 points
    I concur. How did he do it? Nanyo business. *ahem*
  33. 2 points
    Typical Andy wizardry. Can't wait to see what else he had up his sleeves! SR
  34. 2 points
    Some of us still pop in from time to time
  35. 2 points
  36. 2 points
    Personally I don't think you're likely to be chased for building Tele/Strat style stuff. As @mistermikev linked to above, the legal precedent was set some time back that essentially noted that the body shapes in question had been used by so many for so long that they had become too generic to defend as being immediately and solely identifiable as Fender's property. A claim by Gibson for a similar argument will probably fall the same way. I missed the original video before it was pulled, but the commentary that remains is revealing enough. In all likelihood it was a poorly timed and worded PR campaign designed to reinforce the importance of Gibson being the first and only source of the real Les Paul/Flying V/Explorer etc. The fact that it has been pulled only days after being launched with apparently no official comment from Gibson also gives the impression of it perhaps being released before it went through proper channels and signoffs before publication. Even so, I can't blame Gibson (or Fender, or anyone else) for feeling hard done by that their most recognisable products are so widely copied, sometimes to a degree that it makes you wonder if some people shouldn't just buy the original guitar. Maybe their video wasn't the most eloquent way of expressing their frustration and trying to win back the purchasing public to the 'genuine article', but I can sympathise with their intent.
  37. 2 points
    Er.....it was. Till I made this newbie mistake. I've never done that before and have no idea how I did it this time....but obviously the template came out of the guide..I'm out of ebony, but I do have a nice piece of cocobolo that's been waiting for years to become a fretboard. So a rosewood board on a rosewood neck.....might end up looking like a one piece , if I'm not careful. Also my body wood came in. A nice maple burl., dry.... and wet with mineral spirits. SR
  38. 2 points
    Making it more comfortable can't be a big sin. That said having tasted several beers from 20 odd breweries in two days and chopping two wheelbarrows of firewood in direct sunlight for amends before sweating some more in the sauna my comments may not be fully relevant.
  39. 2 points
    Thank you, gentlemen. I will go with 500K pots. I nearly always go with Klein Pickups. I'll discuss my plans with them first. You can mix and match and buy individual pickups from them, so I'll likely end up buying two neck P-90s and one strat middle. SR
  40. 2 points
    This was my first build. I have refinished several guitars in the past, but this is the first one where I built the body. I am a visual artist primarily, but I have always found satisfaction playing music, be it drums or guitar. Here is the story behind the Jazzmeister: The shape is based on a Fender Jazzmaster- I just shortened the body down by 1/2". The body is solid mahogany salvaged from an old bed headboard; two 3/4" pieces were sandwiched together & glued, then cut on a bandsaw. It is finished with 8 coats of tung oil and the natural tones of the wood came through nicely. Amazing that the original antique headboard was made with solid 16" wide mahogany! The pickups were discovered in an old Univox strat copy- they turned out to be Seymour Duncans from 1985 and they sound clear and warm. The pickguard is made from a piece of perforated aluminum from an 1870 fanning mill (antique farming implement). The 3-way switch and tone/volume pots were salvaged from previous projects. I decided to go with a tune-o-matic bridge because I love the feel when my right hand rests on the bridge when picking. The neck is a generic strat neck 25.5" scale that I found on Kijiji- the radius looks like 12". I am happy to say that the whole thing has cost me less than $100 CAD, mostly because I had stuff laying around. It plays really nicely and sounds great. It was a satisfying experience that I plan on doing again sometime. Check out my artist website: http://stevenwhite.ca/site/
  41. 2 points
    Cleaned the inlays a little
  42. 2 points
    Of course I did! My ideas are brilliant, the level of implementation not that much.
  43. 2 points
    I'd actually suggest that for the small items you've nominated it is entirely possible to do it on a budget CNC. I got started on a prefab Chinese kit from eBay, a CNC3020. The model number just refers to the rough dimensions of travel; in this case 30cm x 20cm. From memory it was under $700AU at the time, but for more money I could've gone with bigger models - CNC3040, CNC6040, CNC9060 etc. They all tend to be pretty similar in terms of quality, construction and implementation. I used the 3020 unit for several years and had it do fret slotting and inlays just fine. To be fair though, that's pretty light duty work and probably all that you could expect for such a small, cheap machine. It certainly couldn't cope with milling metal or deep cuts in timber. The drawback to going with a cheap all-in-one unit is that sooner or later you will run into its limitations - the cutting area will eventually be too small, there'll be too much runout in the spindle, the frame and gantry will flex too much. steppers will be too weak, spindle can't take the bit you're wanting to use, not enough vertical travel etc. And if you want to venture deeper down the CNC rabbit hole, you'll invariably outgrow the basic unit and have to shell out extra for either a more mature kit or build your own. The $3K figure that @MiKro suggests is probably about what you'd plonk down for that 'tier 2' unit. The software will also require a significant investment on your part in terms of training and time. You're essentially looking at working in three or four different headspaces concurrently - Computer Aided Drafting, 3D Modelling, Computer Aided Manufacturing and Motion Control of the CNC hardware itself. Some software packages attempt to integrate the lot. Others will only perform one or two of those functions. There are other options regarding software for the CNC. Freecad has integrated CAD, 3D modeling and CAM elements and is constantly being expanded and developed as time goes by. Being open source it is free, and for the most part it does the job. Make of that what you will . At the low-cost end of the market QCAD has decent built-in CAM capabilities and has a much better implementation of CAD than Freecad currently has, but is strictly 2.5D at this stage. Although to be honest, on a small CNC machine you probably woudn't attempt any true 3D milling anyway. For actually driving the CNC you only have a couple of options - Mach 3/4 ($$) or LinuxCNC (free). Having gone down the LinuxCNC path I actually wouldn't recommend it to absolute beginners as it can be an absolute pig to get working and the support for it is somewhat lacking. If you're used to working with Linux computer environments then you may get along with it OK, but I've personally found it's implementation, usage and technicalities pretty, well...Linux-y. If you have moderate DIY electronics skills, what does seem to be a good entry point into the CNC motion control system is the use of an Arduino running the GRBL firmware. I don't think there are any decent fully-fledged CNC kits that use it yet, so you'd have to retrofit it intoyour own hardware, but for basic XYZ CNC open-source machines it is an attractive alternative and has a lot of things going for it if you don't need the complexity of LinuxCNC or Mach.
  44. 2 points
    no expert here but honestly i think a decent level will do the trick. just has to be straight. in my humble O there are so many things that can make more of a difference than a .0001 accurate beam... for instance when you polish your frets after spending the time to level them with a super accurate beam... you probably do more damage then you would do by using a beam that isn't quite as accurate. furthermore, playing the guitar instantly wears down the frets. unless you are gonna level them every month I don't think it will matter. I play with my action super low... literally laying on the frets, so I guess I would know pretty quick if my frets were less level due to using a $25 level... hasn't bothered me yet. my advice would be to buy a decent level and some 3m spray glue and some belt sander belts. or as some here have done, buy some angle iron and do the sm.
  45. 2 points
    Great advice Bizman and Mister and great tips about the pilot hole method as the starting point for the long drill journey. I've come up with a strategy of routing a channel in each edge of the body (join edges) before joining (set neck, 2 piece body build). I will then drill the required holes from the channel BEFORE glueing the body up. Control Cavity covers for the main CC and toggle switch. This will take some accurate measurements and will still require some long drilling but I think I'll have a better chance of getting it spot on with this approach. It's also an insurance policy - if I screw up the long drill I won't have too much invested! I'll certainly read up on a few PG threads for some more tips. Again, thanks!!!
  46. 2 points
    So the V is finished and you know I'm not one to be sitting on my hands, especially as the Mrs took the little one out for brunch on Sunday so I had a few hours. I recarved the neck - it was 21 and 16/32th mm D carve, now it's 20mm. Then I got it stripped down and I sanded out all the marks It gained from me gigging it over the last few months. Going for another poly finish on the body and headstock and Danish oil on the neck. After doing my testers I decided not to bother with sanding sealer, I know this will require more finish due to the pours on Ziricote, but the sealer resulted in a darker finish which I'm not after. An issue I'm faced with is the lack of availability of the finish I'm using (Minwax wipe-on poly), I've just about got enough to finish this guitar, but availability is so limited at the moment that Amazon.co.uk are charging £90 a tin, meaning it's just not an option. I'm thinking about trying their polycrylic for the next build but not sure of the pros and cons, other than that I won't be able to use the oil based sealer I've got in abundance. Anyway, I'll be applying many thinned down coats of poly over the next week then finishing the neck. The Limba went kaboom under finish
  47. 2 points
    Got a real nice edge on the top plates which was hard because the intensity of the quilt caused all kinds of grain issues. I tried the jointer, sanding, scrapers etc, finally ended up shaving a thin layer off with the table saw and then some fine sanding. I need a name for my table saw, it’s such an elder statesman of tools. A 1950 Delta Unisaw with the old smaller horse cast iron induction motors. It’s such a great tool, I’ll try to get pics later. Then cut the center ebony core of the body to shape, plus the swamp ash outer wings which were also resawn to just over 1”, and glued all that crap up. The body will endnup being about 1-3/4” thick at it’s thickest, but with the very heavy carve it will be quite thin actually. Only limited by the Red Special bridge. The Trisonic pickups will be very shallow, almost surface mounted. Last is the obligatory - place the hardware on and try to imagine the guitar in there.
  48. 2 points
    I thought about a curve but I didn’t like the idea tbh. Not sure about unevenness, it’s possible but I started with a router and straight edge so I doubt it. The light source is to the left of the camera so it’s probs just a reflection. Got strings in tonight, pickups in, etc done a rough setup and truss rod adjustment. On to wiring next and figuring out where to put the strap buttons
  49. 2 points
    The end is in sight.. cavities have all been painted with conductive paint. Got the fretwork finished tonight then a couple of coats of oil on the neck. Neck looks awesome hopefully I’ll have it assembled over the weekend.
  50. 2 points
    Stuff it both of you. Go Pack.
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