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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/23/2018 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    Bear in mind that these are just base coat colors. The final colors will come with lacquer tinting. SR
  2. 4 points
    Dying the ash pores. This piece has the elusive, hard to find chain link fence figure. Then grain filling with Timbermate ebony black filler. The contrast comes back under a finish.... And next we dye the front for the first sandback. SR
  3. 4 points
    thanks for that, a bit late for these ones as the hole is already too big and they're going to be push on ones, but a good reference for another time I just couldn't leave it blank now could I?
  4. 4 points
    Life is a bit crazy busy so I'm a bit out of date with the progress shots. I carved the pickup chambers using my preferred method of leaving the router until last, and then just to tidy up the bottoms: I drill my critical radii: Then forstner and chisel: Then tidy up with a fully captive short trimmer bit: Getting these done meant I could glue the fretboard on: And start the carve - not quite there but getting close: It looks quite conventional from the front, but this view hints at the weight saving (and upper fret access) approach: Looks like I'm on plan so far for the sub 6 3/4lb weight target
  5. 4 points
    And then started cleaning up the mess. SR
  6. 3 points
    I had a nice day off yesterday.....and it rained all day, so I spent it in the garage. I sanded back the darkest dye job with 180 and 220 grit. And then dyed it again with burgundy and a bit of orange. Sanded that back with 220 and 320. Dyed it again with orange and a touch of amber. And sanded that back with 320 and 400. And then dyed it again with amber and a touch of orange. SR
  7. 3 points
    That's a comfy thumb rest right there. SR
  8. 3 points
    Yes it's been some time since the last update. I'm still only putting in 2 hours a week. Progress has been understandably slow. Having carefully carved the tenon, the neck alignment was out just a bit too much to pass my QC standards. So more fettling ensued to get the neck into alignment. That of course meant that the tenon was too sloppy a fit. So tonight I glued maple veneer on the sides of the tenon and got busy with the cabinet scraper. Once I had a snug fit, another check for alignment and... ... glue up time! So the next thing will be to cut the fretboard to length and route the pickup cavities
  9. 3 points
    I'm working on that. According to my modus operandi, I needed another project to sidestep the project getting in the way of my main project. So, I started building the RS trem from scratch while I fix the mandolin as I build the tele. Boom.
  10. 2 points
    Well, the builders have been and gone, I have a house that will now stand upright for the rest of my life (fingers crossed), and a severely wounded bank balance. Workshop is still in a state of partial disassembly, but I can at least focus my attention on the CNC for a bit. Time to bite the bullet and commit endmill to timber, starting with the interior features located on the front of the body. Pickup cavities: Control holes for pots: Neck pocket: You may wonder why I'm only milling the outlines of these cavities rather than milling the full profile. There are a few reasons why I've personally decided to do this: The endmill cutters are quite a bit more expensive than your typical 1/4" router bit. I don't want to prematurely wear them down if I don't have to. Using one 1/4" endmill to do an entire cavity is quite inefficient. Lots of chips and dust to deal with. By just cutting the profile on the CNC I can come back later with a forstener drill bit to remove the excess and then tidy up the rest of a cavity using the hand router with a template bit while still retaining the accuracy of the outer edges afforded by the CNC. The CNC might be convenient at making this all as easy as possible with minimal hands-on, but it takes a fair bit of time to make large cavities. By reducing the cavities down to just the outlines and doing the hogging-out by hand later on, I can reduce the milling time down from 2 hours to about 30 minutes. I need to retain some level of hand-made quality to this thing Top face milling complete: Switch to a 1/8" endmill and do the bridge mounting and string-thru body holes. It's also possoble to see how tight I made the body blank fit the CNC'ed profile. There's less than a mm of timber left at the tail end of the body here, and about the same at the tip of the upper horn at the other end of the blank - there was absolutely no way I could afford to let this slip: Flip the body over and start the profiles on the rear. The battery compartment is only small so I elected to ignore my cut-profile-only rule and mill the whole thing in one go. Control cavity cover recess is also milled complete but the cavity itself will be hogged out and cleaned up by hand later on: Rear mounting of the string-thru ferrules, including milling the shouders to sit flush once installed: Rear milling complete: The next trick (once the workshop is back in some kind of functioning order) is to take it to the bandsaw and trace around the profile cut to extract it from the blank. There's a 1mm lip of timber left holding the body inside the blank after milling the body shape from both sides, plus some deliberate 'tabs' of wood strategically placed for added strength. That'll also be the point where I see exacly how successfully I've managed to align the front and back milling operations together.
  11. 2 points
    Well, yesterday's session was all about the center block. My mdf template is about 1mm oversize to account for any router-connected events, and that was a correct decision. I've started with short bit, again small steps, 3mm, as the stock to be removed is both skinny and mostly runout grain, so it chips off easily. 1-IMG_20180704_184541 by Goran P, on Flickr 2-IMG_20180704_185743 by Goran P, on Flickr I've then removed the template to gain 8mm depth. I was trying to avoid using the long bit for as long as possible. 3-IMG_20180704_190426 by Goran P, on Flickr Then from the other side, first with template, then without, and had to switch to the long bit. 4-IMG_20180704_194453 by Goran P, on Flickr 5-IMG_20180704_200256 by Goran P, on Flickr It worked fine, with some dips in few places, as the surface for the router is really narrow. Most of those will dissapear in carving and sanding to size. 6-IMG_20180704_204319 by Goran P, on Flickr 7-IMG_20180704_205329 by Goran P, on Flickr 8-IMG_20180704_205344 by Goran P, on Flickr Not cutting the shoulders was a trade-off, I needed that surface for the router bearing to ride on, but now I'll need more time to get them perpendicular. I might glue a shim to the block to level it while shaping on the oscilating sander. Next step would be to clean the surface more, cut the shoulders and the cutout in the block at the bridge pup and glue it all together. Must not forget to cut out a small space on the treble side where it would collide with the potentiometer later on. Also, I hope I'll get the telecaster into finishing booth by the end of the week! Still need to route the neck pocket and glue/trim the binding.
  12. 2 points
    So I was chatting with Perry ( Orsmby Guitars ) about a guitar that I sent him some specific wood for some years back ( curly purple heart, very rare ). At the time he was unable to find this anywhere. He contacted me and I had some. Finally I have a picture of the top. Man did it come out nice. mk
  13. 2 points
    When cutting the body blanks out from the Chinaberry Chunk, someone said, "Beware the Pith!" Well, when faced with the decision of two blanks or three, I took the Pith ... and decided to make it a Feature. Made a 4mm dowel of Padauk and epoxied it in ... right about the top between the forearm bevel and the tummy cut. The neck is Padauk, and probably a Neck Bolt Plate of sorts, so why not? Here's the template for weight relief routing ... as promised, pretty aggressive. Finally cut the Japanese Kaede Maple top out using my little bandsaw ... where has this been all my life?!?! Was a breeze compared to my two-decade-old jigsaw. So this piece was my first resaw and cutout on a bandsaw, and while this will never be a "resaw king," it's better than any alternative I have. Happy Puppy!
  14. 2 points
    The Chinaberry has been on the back burner too long! Tendinitis and Bursitis seem to be under control, as I've been in the shop for short times almost every day and not had the Popeye knobs on my elbow and a lot less pain in the thumb and forearm. Yay! Finally got the router out of the table and tried to put it in the fancy jig and ... the base was too big by 4mm! Gaaaah! I measured the bottom plate, but the actual base overhangs the front cut area. No idea why, but in retrospect, I guess it would have been a good idea to check that before building the jig. (duh!) Anyway, after a bit of work (while very tempted to chuck the whole thing in the bin!) got the rails the correct width. It was probably a good thing, as my wheels were a bit off, so fixed that, too. After waxing rails and router base with some Briwax, the router slides side-to-side nicely, and the wheels roll on the rails very smoothly. Put the Chinaberry body in the box and used adjustable blocks to snugly chuck it in place. After taking down top and bottom a bit more than 1mm, then a few minutes with a Bosch sander, the body was within 0,1mm all around, and perfectly flat to a straight edge. Since my shop won't support a planer or sanding thicknesser, this is perfect!
  15. 2 points
    That is pretty warm inside your office. My folks would be screaming for the air conditioner to be fixed. It sounds like your outdoor shop is laid out much like @Andyjr1515's I suspect that there will be an accounting for that run of nice weather to look forward to later in the year. SR
  16. 2 points
    facebook thread here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/44274804507/?multi_permalinks=10156438706584508&notif_id=1530390253167677&notif_t=feedback_reaction_generic Learned a lot. Special thanks to all here for help, encouragement, and listening to me drivel on.
  17. 2 points
    Over here it is common for our patio tables to have a hole in the center whereby the shaft of the patio umbrella fits therein, thus centering the umbrella over the table. I'm shocked to see, that in Merry Old England the umbrellas are felt to be better utilized separate from the table, so that they may be moved all about the yard providing that much needed protection from the sun...that one day every half century that you'd have your grandchildren believe it actually makes an appearance. Apropos of nothing what-so-ever, my son has been known to spin some tall tales to see how much of it he can get his lovely bride to believe. When she finally realizes that the story is approaching fantastic dimensions, she'll look at him suspiciously and ask him, Are you grampsin' me? I wonder where that colorful expression came from. SR
  18. 2 points
    I think that was '89? They performed One on stage. Started weak but finished strong. That was the first time they had a category for metal, and the results showed emphatically that these "music experts" had no idea what metal actually was. Of course, Metallica's following albums showed emphatically that they also had forgotten what metal was.
  19. 2 points
    It's refreshing to see the different approaches that people take when making a guitar. It proves there is no one "right" way to do it, and the end result justifies the method. I think the key thing is to be able to visualise what you want and then choose a method that allows YOU to accomplish it Sorry, I'm getting a bit philosophical after drinking on a school night
  20. 2 points
    I roughed in the neck join and began shaping the back as well.And then continued the top carve. SR
  21. 2 points
    Made salsa yesterday. Takes hours to get it condensed down properly, so I always make a huge pot, then when it condenses I add more tomatoes and condense some more. Repeat until I have a full pot. Because of this I always put the peppers, onions, garlic, etc in the first part, so during tastings it's always hotter than the final product. I used twenty habaneros in this batch, which once all was said and done made about eight and a quarter pints. I put the quarter pint in the fridge and ate it with some chips last night once it cooled. Very tasty, but now I'm spending this morning close to the throne with a bad case of the hotbutt. Pretty sure it would kill tapeworms.
  22. 2 points
    I tried to drill the centre hole, or rather expand the centre hole that was already there from gluing them up (I used a toothpick to hold them in place), but for whatever reason it drilled off centre, so I had to Dremel it instead. I pushed a dowel in there to give me something to hold onto, clamped the Dremel with a little sanding drum in a bench, and started shaping. so heres the first one roughly shaped.
  23. 2 points
    Hey guys, Sorry I haven't posted in a while, lots going on at home and been concentrating on the social media stuff to get myself "out there" and all that. However, just finished this one. My first 7-string in a while, named "The Rook" and very au naturel. Custom 7-string SD with Ash body, Maple set-neck, Flame Maple fretboard, Tonepros TP7 tune-o-matic bridge, Gotoh 381 Series Magnum Lock tuners, Fishman Fluence Modern set with coil split and USB recharge pack, Lollar Tweed single coil pickup (this passive/active mix has almost sent me insane today... Never going to attempt it again) and natural Poly clear coat finish...
  24. 2 points
    This archtop is very dear to me as it is not only for a dear friend of mine but it was also a super-fun platform to innovate on since I had control over most of the specs. Essentially I had to use black and white ebony, amboyna burl, and it had to be an acoustic archtop in my Model1 shape. Other than that the rest was up to me! So I played with some fun things like: A bolt-on version of my compound-bend all-access neck joint Radial purfling using burl Carbon fiber (neck, neck block buttresses, and laminated in pickguard) 3D printed structural elements (can't really see them though) Charlie Christian pickup Completely hollowed ebony bridge Oval hole and fan bracing Back-strapped diamond volute Here she is relaxing in her new home: The specs are: Curly maple neck, back & sides. Note: the back is domed like a flat-top not carved. Carved sitka spruce top with ebony binding and tons of crazy multi-layer purfling. Black & white ebony fretboard and tailpiece (veneered in normal ebony expect the "wings"). Hollow ebony bridge and CF-laminate ebony floating pickguard. Buffalo bone nut and saddle. 25" scale board with 12" radius and 1 3/4" nut. Finish is odie's oil neck with satin nitro headplate. Body is all done in an tru-oil with some additional wizardry to keep it from soaking deep into the top and potentially hurting the acoustic resonance. One thing I want to point out that doesn't matter for the final product, but I'm still proud of: I decided to fully hand gramil all the binding and purfling channels on this box. What a process... won't do it again... but glad I did it once so I can truly appreciate binding jigs and bearing bits! If you'd like to learn a (lot) more about this project, it's history, why the specs are what they are then feel free to waste 30 minutes here: Best, Chris
  25. 2 points
    Tackled a couple of jobs that have been worrying me today. As I didn't have a solid plan early on, I didn't route a channel for the pickup switch.... So the only way was the old massive auger bit through the body trick. After practicing a LOT on scrap I got the deflection down to 1-2mm, in practice it turned out a bit more than that, but it worked out fine. Prior to doing this, I drilled out the cavity for the switch so I'd have a nice big target to hit, no tear out which is great. I also got to steam out my first dent after a drill press table incident. Worked just like magic. I grabbed some Ebony grain filler today so I'll hit the body with a slurry and sand back to smooth everything off.
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