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  1. 7 likes
    I've been having too much fun building..kinda forgot about this whole internet thing :-)
  2. 7 likes
    HAD A BABY!!!! It's a boy! Keegan Ash Deagle! 8 lb 10 oz. So far moma bear and cub are doing awesome! still has his days / nights mixed up... but getting there... In other news, I was able to get the frets in and start prepping for the back carve... hoping to get a little time to work on that today... almost ready for finish... then I have to find a place to hid the thing for a few weeks till X's birthday. also found a local place to buy 1 amp slo-blo fuses. my AX-84 high gain Frankenstein amp is blowing the fuse as soon as it's plugged in... the only things connected before the standby switch is flipped is the power cable / fuse / standby switch. you'd expect to find a short in there... but the multi meter reads none... so I basically have to start de-soldering items until I find the culprit... hopefully it's jus the switch and I can order a new one easily.
  3. 6 likes
    Not updated in a while but I've been busy. Top jointed and glued on. Initial routing done. I didn't use a template for the neck pocket but used the laser and two bits of wood to make a temporary guide, with two layers of tape to make a tight fit. Pickup cavities done and first pass at my body carve is done. A lot more work to do carving but for not much noticeable change. Just cleaning contours and smoothing now. Oh and decided on my f hole shape and mostly finished that. Needs refining but v pleased with the results so far. Also need to chop the section of neck out for the pickup. That's making me nervous! Measured lots and drawn it on and feels like v little wood left. The part under the pup will be 9mm thick. I guess the sides will help there. Eek!
  4. 6 likes
    The controls will be hidden from the front and accessible at the back. I will have a powered piezo/mag pre-amp cum mixer and then, as a minimum, a blend and master volume. I might be able to incorporate a tone too if I can find a suitably small stacked pot. This is where they are supposed to fit: Bearing in mind that I still have to scoop 5mm or so from the back, it doesn't leave a lot of depth. Because I'm working towards the top - probably a thickness of 7mm max, I've gone for Forstner and chisels again. I've done the knobs chamber - now you see them: ...and now you don't: Then started on the main chamber. I reckon I've got another 3mm to go, with a lot of tidying of the carve too! Mind you - at least I got the cable channel in the right place With apologies to Scott for the poor carving so far: Talking of carving, you will have deduced, no doubt, that once the back is scooped and shaped, the control chamber cover will need to be carved too!!
  5. 6 likes
    The better I get at sharpening and using chisels, the more I use them in preference to the 'you-can-destroy-everything-in-seconds' router. The slot here will be where the tuner block butts up against the body wing. I'm pleased with this feature - it really does mean the tuner block isn't going to go anywhere and is not reliant on the fixing screws at all for strength . This is basically how the block will fit: The pencil marks shows the positioning of the neck. Not that there will be a rebate at the top and the bottom of the body. You can see the top one here - the top wing is glued and the bottom wing not yet glued: The top rebate is where the full-length fretboard will slot into and the similar rebate at the bottom is where I will carve up to the neck to create the back curve. You can see also here the slot where the strings, attached to an upside down tuner block attached to the rear block, will come through the neck and through the fretboard. Next is to sit and think and plan and think again. I need to make sure ALL of the control run slots, etc, are properly thought through and in place before I glue that bottom wing on!
  6. 5 likes
    There is then many days planing scraping and sanding to go, but to illustrate broadly what I'm trying to achieve, started the rough sanding to eventually get the body too at a 20" radius and flush with the fretboard: Long way to go before getting to the 20" radius, but this gives maybe a hint of the final shape of the top: ...and once the top is sorted, I will cut the controls chamber at the back and then scoop out the back to head towards the contact lens shape
  7. 5 likes
    It's a beautiful sunny spring morning here in the English midlands and I couldn't resist a couple of piccies... Another couple of "flow" coats on - unfortunately not quite as clean this time and introduced a small curtain on the backside of the lower horn. It might polish out, but might need knocking back and going over again. I'll ponder it. The front is looking pretty darned spangly though!
  8. 5 likes
    ...and funerals, where the dead can no longer hear them and the living are already crying. SR
  9. 5 likes
    They were commonly used on the field of battle, which often led the opponents to kill themselves instead of listening to the racket they make. It is however, a long way to the top if thou doest want to rock and roll.
  10. 5 likes
    well KEA my build is basically the opposite of your super-clean ones but do build more! Last week after fretting I did a quick alignment check by locating the outer bridge saddle holes and checking that the strings run parallel to the fretboard edges and that I can set intonation ok. All appears to be fine so I can continue So now the neck, heel, volute etc. So far I build almost only bolt-on guitars so I don't have the process down for carving the heel. ok, this is kind of in the direction I want it to go, but not exactly. The transition from the neck to the body starts pretty early. I took a look at my Mayones Regius to compare, and there the neck retains its profile pretty much until the cutaway actually starts. It's a slightly different thing since there only the back is rounded over, but still. This is a bit closer: I need some tools for the future, probably at least a good quality rasp. Right now its going rather slow, but I'm getting somewhere. The volute is almost done, the purpleheart/maple accenting came out pretty cool: and the heel: Now I think I'll smooth the body a bit and shoot some primer, with this blotchy mess I cant see anything. Plus the super soft pine all over the place freaks me out, I fart and it dents. Oh well.
  11. 5 likes
    Messing around with fretboard blanks and a few off cuts. The flame is quite strong on this maple. Not sure if ill use it for this guitar, but I quite like. Reminds me a bit of the pavement on Copacabana
  12. 5 likes
    Everything went (mostly) as planned and I successfully surprised the guys with their new piccolo basses last week between sets at a gig. They seem pretty happy. Here's a shot of the the instruments before they were handed off: A ground came loose in the blue guitar, so Sean didn't get to play it plugged in until Friday night when I brought it to a jam session. Here's a video of him playing it literally for the first time (don't judge him for his singing or me for my camera work!): I am so stoked to be give these guitars to my bandmates. We all know that there's magic that happens when you turn a pile of wood and metal into a musical instrument and hear it make sound for the first time - the saying "the whole is greater than the sum of its parts" definitely applies here. There is even more magic when you take that newly minted instrument, place it in the hands of a skilled musician, and hear them make it come to life. Full pictures and write-up to come...
  13. 5 likes
    And here we are.... managed to finish her up JUST in time for the gremlin's birthday in about 2 weeks. Still needs the intonation set and the pickup heights tweeked but other than that she's as ready as she's ever going to be.... I'm not 100% happy with the water based poly / finish but not much I can do about it at this point in time. either way, should be one hell of a happy gremlin.... cuz shit yeah... it's Spider-Man....
  14. 5 likes
    Part three: The neck! This was a real pain in the... You know what! It was all done with a Stanley No.7 and a bandsaw. (Apart from the headstock angle... That was my No.4.) Neck side: Truss rod slot cut... In hindsight I probably should have moved the nut slot back so it wasn't directly in line with the nut... Next time I'll try to remember that... It looks like that planing was done badly... I thought so too, but it's straight as... Well my straight edge... It just has a really funky grain and figuring to it that makes it look wobbly. Neck rough cut... So close to test fitting... (And yes the body is like me... A little overweight, but I'm working on it ) I got so carried away with the rest I forgot to take pictures, But one more... Where the neck and body met on the first day, sorry about the quality but... It really is starting to look like a guitar now!!! Low lighting makes everything look kinda yellow but hey... It was a long neck making day and the sun had disappeared by the time I got this taken. There's a LOT more to do, more shaping, more routing and every woodworkers favourite past time... Sanding. But this is it so far, Thank you for taking the time to look at this project! Mike.
  15. 4 likes
    Here is one other project i didnt really plan on. My local wood store got in some 8/4 zebrawood, and i had always wanted to do a zebrawood carved top.
  16. 4 likes
    I also got the curly maple/zw/walnut pg17 to the same place as the n12. I'm totally in love with how these 2 turned out.
  17. 4 likes
    I havnt done much guitar works for months. After a lot of personal life stuff that really got me down, i finally got a little motivation to finish up a few projects i have here.
  18. 4 likes
    The headstock has been inlayed. Next time I'm springing for the right tools to do this job. Took me 4 1/2 hours doing it by hand. It's a little sloppy around the 'S', but once finish is on it should look OK.
  19. 4 likes
    I'm taking this top carve nice and slowly First I gave myself two reference points - a 12mm roundover on the back edge: ...and a soft pencil line along the fingerboard join line to make sure I didn't start carving that inadvertently: Then I set-to initially with my block plane and jointer plane - both with freshly sharpened blades. The figuring doesn't half show up well when it's planed: After a day's effort off and on, I'm starting to creep up on the final shape to the point where I can move to sanding. Again, I've popped the roundover more as a reference guide that getting close the the actual edge finish. As you can see, the profile is still in need of its final smoothing at the edges anyway: The large lower bout is pretty much getting there. With this view, you can see a hump still on the upper section that needs to be planed down before I start rough-sanding to finished shape. What I can now start getting my head around is the control chamber and hidden controls, which I will be routing before I start the carve of the back. Also today, spoke to the guy who is building the custom individual magnetic coils to confirm power and sizes. They will basically fit here, underneath the fretboard: It's getting exciting
  20. 4 likes
    Ok - I didn't want to be the forum noob that went straight off topic on his first post, but having been asked... Here's the '69 Fiat. And here's the '69 beetle. Start, Finish, and a pic of the proud owner. Basically, the older son is into cars, so at 16, we built him a car. The younger is son is into guitars, so we're building him a guitar. Lucky for me, I'm into both And one parting shot... We now return you to your regularly scheduled programming.
  21. 4 likes
    Work is still crazy, but I have managed to make some progress recently. The neck is ready for pocket and attachment fun: I've been experimenting with some inlay ideas too. The super bright one at the end was epoxy with LOTS of glow in the dark/UV reactive pigment, and the pocket was painted white first.
  22. 4 likes
    There's nothing I like more than the sound of bagpipes. Unless it's the sound of a Kenworth Prime Mover using engine brakes down a steep hill.
  23. 4 likes
    That's not the attitude. This should be a triumph of British engineering at its finest. And not in a British Leyland kind of way.
  24. 4 likes
  25. 4 likes
    On to fretwork! I've gotten them installed and flush with the fretboard. Installing frets was not as difficult as I had imagined it would be, There are at least two that will need special attention since I got a bit hammer-happy right at the end of the frets and managed to hammer them in to the fretboard a fraction of a millimeter. I still need to bevel them, so that's more jig making but even as it is (Neck un-carved, frets un-bevelled ect.) it's more comfortable feeling than some of the guitars I've played in music shops lol. And after about an hour or so of flushing them... (Could probably have gone faster but at this stage I really don't want to mess things up too bad and make more work for myself down the line... I broke out the CNC for one last job on this which was the truss rod cover. As you can see though, my earlier mistake of truss rod placement has come back to haunt me... I know it will be hidden under the nut but I'll always know it is there... Still maybe a little thick and may need some thicknessing... Won't know until I get it to the point of testing before finishing. But for now a truss rod cover is a truss rod cover... Still needs more sanding ect. but it works. I decided against inlaying this as I really don't think I could've freed the inlay without breaking it as the lettering is so small. (I actually had to make the text bigger to fit my 0.6MM bit, or 0.023622" to you imperial guys!) And finally some rough hardware pics of the body... The pickup rings are from an older guitar I'm re-finishing, The ones for this guitar will be shiny and new! The rest of the hardware will be what's on the guitar, and the blank space is for a 3 way pickup selector switch. I may be keeping that pickup in it (Bridge only, neck is a DiMarzio D-Activator bridge) But I'm not sure. It's a custom wound (By me) few thousand over-wound humbucker but still has a vintage-esque sound to it... Like it's not a metal humbucker at all but still has a decent amount of output. Not sure if it's beaten-up look will work yet but I can always wind another for this guitar if I feel I need to. Just roughly plonked on top... Closer up of the pickup... Pole-pieces are still low from the "ageing" process. And that's all for now. Mike.
  26. 3 likes
    This is my sample board for the finish. Several applications of a custom-mixed Tikkurila alcohol-borne stain (75% DC22 and 25% 720R I think) with French polishing over the top. The wood was sanded to 320 grit and given a single black Brummer grain fill. A few more applications of filler would get rid of the pores entirely instead of highlighting them, and we're undecided on whether to go for smooth or slightly textured. Both are nice. The chatoyance and bloom in daylight are astonishing as you'd expect from French polishing.
  27. 3 likes
    so @KempGuitars tru-oil masterpiece got me all worked up to move ahead with my hackjob here and see if I couldn't get a half decent result. . We had a sunny day (was supposed to rain- we missed it)- anyway- I plowed ahead and wet sanded with 0000 steel wool, wiped it down, and hung to dry. these pics are after 3 hrs of drying. I think I got the back pretty well filled, I am going to have to do the front over once I completely get the glue I missed around the neck and bridge (and tailpiece)- I want to have the back done so I don't have to worry about drying etc and can work on the front when I can sit down and really concentrate.. I am going to have to pull out my optivisors and sanding stick/mini chisels and heck maybe even the big ass card scraper I have and really be careful not to mess up the edges of the fingerboard, bridge and tailpiece. should have make sure I got all that squeeze out. shoulda coulda woulda. I thought I did. Eyes are not what they used to be I guess. Lesson (I already knew) learned again.
  28. 3 likes
    Yeah Scott, that's normally how a mandolin burst is done. I'm not set on doing that though. I'm not planning on binding the back, and am still waffling about whether to bind the front or not. I really like how the hook/scroll looks unbound. If I don't bind either and end up doing a burst I will probably do the sides in the darkest color of the burst. Even if I bind the top I may do that anyway, so that I can just continue the burst onto the back and give it a nice organic look. Anyway, I enjoy toying with these details in my mind and will make the decision when the time comes, and not before. As far as the 1918 F4, my wife and I were visiting Nashville for my 40th birthday, nearly two years ago now and so of course we had to stop in at Carter Vintage and Gruhn's, just to noodle around. Well, I saw the F4 at Gruhn's and played around on it for a while. My wife loved the antique look of it and said, "You need to buy that". Well, I hadn't been planning on buying anything, but we left for lunch and I thought about it for a while, came back and bought it. She twisted my rubber arm. She's a good woman.
  29. 3 likes
    Context: I'm fairly new to the ProjectGuitar community, and to guitar building, though I've played for 35ish years, and have been woodworking for 25ish. I've done a few repair/restoration/modification projects on electrics, acoustics and ukes, and am embarking on my first full, from-scratch electric build. I'm building it with my son (which, of course, is super fun for me) who has recently gotten serious as a player, and is interested in learning a little about the build process as well. Here's some shots of the shop, which I recently reorganized to be more guitar friendly (previous focus had been classic car restoration - '74 Fiat Spider, '69 Fiat Spider, '69 VW Beetle). And this is us: What we're thinking: It will be a pretty straightforward Les Paul, though we may take some liberties with the pickup configuration and the headstock design. We have African mahogany for the body base and the neck, maple for the top, and a nicely figured wenge for the fretboard. We might use the wenge to veneer the headstock too, but that's still an open discussion at this point. We're going to do an traditional carve on the top, most likely using the angle grinder with carving disk approach as opposed to the router and sander approach or the gouges and chisels approach. What we've done so far: The build is just getting started. We've been studying plans (and making our own where we need them), making templates and gluing up blanks. We dutifully searched the internet for Les Paul plans and dimensions, and started our design from there. We found most of what we needed, with the exception of good dimensions for the neck. So I extrapolated from what I had and drew up the neck myself. We've made MDF templates for the body, including one to use for routing the body itself, and for the electronics cavities. The other is for routing the weight relief cavities, and the neck cavity. If this build goes well, we have enough mahogany and wenge to make another one, so hopefully these templates will have a future as well. We've cut out and glued up the blanks for both the base and the top. The boards came S3S from Cherokee Wood Products in Upland, CA, and it only took a little tuning with the plane to get the edges flat and square for gluing. What's next on the agenda: Laying out the neck and getting it rough cut from the mahogany board is our next step. The new band saw just came yesterday, so I have some set up and tuning to do on the tool before we put the blade into our good wood, but hopefully by the end of the weekend we'll be ready to start thinking about cutting the body shapes out of those blanks. Hope you'll enjoy following along with us. We'll be glad to hear any input, suggestions and ideas. Cheers! -- se
  30. 3 likes
    I got a whole day to work on Cody this weekend. I had a college graduation and celebratory dinner to attend in San Antonio. I love San Antone and the food was great, but the trip up and back from Houston eats the hell out of a day. This past week I discovered a blues player from Britain, that is exceptional on guitar and has an amazing voice, by the name of Aynsley Lister. Any of you Brits heard of this guy? He got a lot of air time in my garage this weekend. So, for the bulk of you watching, () any changes I made in the 10 hours or so I got in this weekend are probably going to appear to be quite subtle. To Cody and me however, they are rather substantial. They went a long way towards pulling Cody out of the ash log, instead of some other dog that looks sort of like him. SR
  31. 3 likes
    Yeah, filing another patent. dammit. Another $15 grand. Still recovering from the last patent I filed. Don't ask how this is made. Going with a black TransTrem on this one, once I perfect the lamination and cut it into a guitar face. Info on these builds can be found on my other threads. The guitar bodies in the pics are for scale (but they look cool too). The unidirectional fibers EXACTLY replicate the light refractive properties of quilted figure found in quilted maple and quilted mahogany (when they are molded in my patent pending process). Quilted gold coming next.
  32. 3 likes
    A couple more pics of the latest build (KM-III #1)... And one for Jdogg (Wenge/Sapele close-up)
  33. 3 likes
    I was under the impression that Stewmac were trying to encourge us to be 'real men'. Real men, as we all know, don't need instructions to program the VCR to do timer recording, erect a four-person tent or adjust a fret slotting mitre box
  34. 3 likes
    Good point Scott. It's been a busy week, but I've managed to fit in a few more hours of work. Starting to get a clearer picture of the final shapes now. Before I started carving I was trying to visualize everything and just couldn't wrap my brain around a few areas, so I just decided to start making wood chips. I figured seeing and feeling it would be the only way to make it happen. I think that was a good decision. I still have a few areas that I need to determine how I want things to be contoured, particularly how the scroll interfaces with the upper bout. But the scroll itself is starting to come together and the overall profile of the lower bout is smoother and more even. The recurve area has been moved a little further inward, and I think it will be about right. The edge of the plate is also down within a millimeter of final thickness in most areas.
  35. 3 likes
    I had family in town over a long weekend and did not get a whole lot of time in this piece of ash. What I did get done involved slimming the front legs and feet and shrinking the head some. Can you see the weight loss or do these pictures make Cody look fat? SR
  36. 3 likes
    Thanks! So, I decided to start roughing out the back this weekend. I used the Safe-T-Planer to rough out a 'topographic map' of the carve, then used a microplane rasp to knock off the bulk of the edges and join things together. Then I went to town with a 12mm convex sole Ibex finger plane. I also used a riffler rasp and japanese file in roughing out the scroll area. After five hours of work this is what I've got: Man, I have a long way to go... But it's a start. I bet I've got at least another ten hours in this. But the good news is that the top is redwood, and it should go quite a bit more quickly.
  37. 3 likes
    Hey folks, So, I am doing a build this summer inspired by my 10 yr-old son, who is the real musician in the family (drums for 5+ yrs now). I have done several mods on guitars, then a few builds from parts, but this will be my first attempt at building from a raw body and doing the finishing myself! The body is a "Jem" spec raw body : I am looking to create this kind of effect - based on my son's feedback -
  38. 3 likes
    Go on then. As it's Friday you can have my "Getting There" shot of the first gloss coat on the back
  39. 3 likes
    Tuner holes are drilled and reamed for bushings. I was a bit nervous about getting this right. Not a lot of room for error when you're working with four on a plate tuners... Now I need to spend a few days reviewing top and back carving procedures before I make wood shavings out of the wrong parts of the plates...
  40. 3 likes
    Well I'm now looking at a week of night shifts so I'm putting this this away until I've recuperated. This is where I'm leaving this - probably should have brushed off the dust first . First thing on the to do list when I'm back is to level and fret. the board. I also have to find a decent source of shellac and buy some cow bones (as I've got a few builds in the offing decided to try and dry and degrease my own bone for saddles and nuts). As always, thanks for reading. Matt
  41. 3 likes
    Last night I leveled the top and back of the rim. Here was my setup: Three rows of adhesive backed 80 grit sandpaper stuck to my bench top. It was tedious but effective. I literally spent an hour and a half repeating the same routine over and over. Hold at the blocks, fifty circular strokes, hold at the waist, fifty circular strokes, turn it 180 degrees, hold at the lower bout, fifty circular strokes, hold at the blocks, fifty circular strokes, vacuum the dust, check for level. And on and on. First the back, and then the front (didn't start checking for level until the back was totally flat, no gaps around the perimeter of the rim). It took a little longer than anticipated, but it's done. The depth at the tail block is about thirty thousandths thinner than the depth at the head block. But it is a consistent rise , not a low spot, and both the top and back of the rim are flat. I think that will be within spec for me...
  42. 3 likes
    I'm going to visit them soon and film an interview plus install. I'll see if I can get an answer. Small progress today. Managed to get my fret markers in. Brass tubing with ebony dust filler. 12th fret on the board still needs a layer of filling but looking nice. Then time to polish the fretboard and get the frets in. Brass circles are a theme for this. Brass washers for machineheads, pointers for controls etc.
  43. 3 likes
    Thanks for the replies. all ... probably going for number 3, and Volume-Tone-Volume. A little progress with the neck, Yay! Frets in, leveled, crowned and polished. Will do final polishing after oil finish is done ... on the third application today. I chose Watco Oil Finish (which apparently is different from Watco Danish Oil ... but who knows?), the best info I can find says "vegetable based" oil. Watco Japan sells a wax that is made to be applied as a final coat(s) for their oil. I looks nice so far, but not yet enough to see if it will build up. Oh, well ... the cherry looks nice! (a little bit darker than the pictures show ... iPhone camera) Also, drilled the tuner holes, and checked to make sure they fit.
  44. 3 likes
    oh fiddlesticks. literally. I think my reluctance to get into this is also driven by my small work space, though I bet with a but of thinking there'd be a way of increasing storage. See any excuse...... Joking apart another thing on the list is trying to sort out some sort of drum sanding solution for thicknessing. I can see I need to meditate on this. I'm walking away from this today. Time for a quick play and a couple of blisters getting the fretboard levelled. Its going to work out a but thinner than I'd have wanted, but should work I think with a lower action and the strings being closer to the top than planned. If I keep it together this is what were shooting for. The sound hole is going to be continued into and through the fretboard. Who plays up there anyway?
  45. 3 likes
    Today was a good one. I got a lovely package from Monty's guitars. This is the set of gt500 pickups for the semi hollow. I've been chatting Matt for a while now and think these will be just right. Not cheap but think they'll be worth it. What gorgeous attention to detail. lovely packaging and materials look second to none Now to finish the thing so I can hear them!
  46. 3 likes
    More work on the neck. Even though I don't have my acrylic templates yet I said screw it and sanded the headstock to final shape. Then started working on the headstock to neck transition. This is such a rewarding part of the build, it's quite therapeutic. I think I'm about 2/3 done with the whole neck shaping procedure at this point.
  47. 3 likes
    Managed to find some time to get back to the LP project. I'm going to just link to the old thread instead of updating the threads individually: I am happy to report that the second time using the drill press routing for f-holes, it turned out much better. I used the same template from the other guitar. Finally got the top glued on, and cleaned it up on the spindle sander. Ran a cove bit around and drilled/routed for electronics. Randomly decided that it will have independent volumes & master tone. So you can still do the "on-off-cool-les paul-thing", but I don't care for 2 tones. And mini toggles for coil tapping: Don't ask about that horrendous truss rod channel... lol. Never will I ever attempt to make that cut on a neck that's shaped already, I just didn't have a choice and the old impatient gremlins were at it again. Couldn't keep a template on it for anything and for what this guitar is, I'm just going to live with it. Did some carving on the top. I forgot to take during pictures but came up with this: I want to soften the line some more at the top of the cove. Will have to get back to that soon.
  48. 3 likes
    First coat of lacquer on the front & headstock Hopefully I'll get the rest of the neck detail sanded tonight and get some lacquer on it Shiny!
  49. 3 likes
    Before gluing, shaped the end of the fretboard to the same template that I had used to take the body down for the top to slide on. Kind of starting to visualize that the strings are gonna be higher off the body than I would've liked - in terms of the combined height of the fretboard and the bit of the neck that is peeking out mistakes were made when I was removing material to allow for the top to sit on there. It may come down ever so slightly when radiusing the fretboard I guess. Will have to wait and see.. Dun dun dun! Trimmed up: That's about where I'm at for now. I'm really hoping to make some good progress this next week in a couple different areas. Going to want to start carving the neck soon. I have all the hardware now, so have to figure out how to start tackling the bridge & nut placement. Tuner holes Figure out the electronics cavity and hope that I don't tear out massive chunks that you can see through the f-holes (perhaps should've started some kind of opening before the back was glued on. Oh well) At this point, I couldn't wait any longer to do a mockup: One last thing I should ask - I have 2 sets of ferrules like these. Is that proper usage of the hardware, or do they make a different style ferrule for where the string goes through the body like this?
  50. 3 likes
    Sanded down, masked up and ready to dye the back tonight