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Showing most liked content since 12/19/2017 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    Thank y'all so much! I actually got to sleep last night, that was pretty awesome! since this is a guitar forum I gotta throw up a guitar pic haha. here's some wiring I did on the n12 offset yesterday.
  2. 4 points
    So I'll kick this thread off with a guitar I just finished today! It's a multiscale Wayfarer 6 with some of the coolest ash I've found yet. -Specs- Ash body Pau ferro neck and fretboard 25-26" multiscale Elysian Pickups Hellfire with Alnico 8 mag Hipshot bridge and tuners Jescar stainless steel fretwire Odie's Oil finish I've been playing with a really fun finish for my other current project, I'll post more details and pics on that one tomorrow.
  3. 4 points
    Played around with some Pale Moon Ebony today More on this build soon...
  4. 4 points
    Next, we clean up and square up the sides and tenon. And on to the rabid beaver. Sadly, it got dark before he could finish his meal. He'll need to make a new reservation for next weekend. SR
  5. 3 points
    Once the headstock carve is done it's time to add fret locator dots and side dots, and then radius and polish the fretboard. I can't remember ever having as much trouble fretting as this board gave me. I set the depth guide and dressed the slots several times as I radiused and polished the board in the hopes that I could keep it pristine, while fretting. I apparently wallowed out the ends of several slots and they wouldn't grip the tangs. I had to pull several frets and fill the slots with CA, level and re-polish the board and re-cut the slots to get them to hold the tangs. other frets didn't want to go in deep enough, even though I repeatedly checked the slot depth. Finally I set the depth just a tad deeper and life got much easier. I ran out of daylight before I could get any fret dressing done, so that will be on the agenda next weekend. SR
  6. 3 points
    That white DC3 now ready to go. I wasn't sure about this body shape after making the Sapele archtop prototype in October. I said back then that I'd have to make another and paint it... Here it is and I'm happier with it now. DC3 #2: Alder body (flat top), 3-piece Wenge/Sapele neck (bolt-on), African Ebony fretboard (25.5" scale length), Gotoh fixed bridge/381 tuners, Irongear "Steam Hammer" pickups, coil split mini-switch and matte Signal White PU finish.
  7. 3 points
    way behind posting again-I have pics on my phone/pics on my camera and need to get sorted- the dates on the camera are all screwed up. also had a bit of an interruption with all the house guests I have hosted the last couple weeks and the weather has been extremely cold here-too cold to work in the garage. so- my shop vac bit the dust- thus the pile up on the router table- neck template done-luckily santa brought me a few home depot gift cards and a new shop vac has been purchased. making a headstock template to use with my (O'brien guitars) drill press routing method. does any one else use these little ruler thingys to pry up double stick tape (or in my case scotch tape plus glue?) these rulers are also the perfect size (with just a touch of sanding) for fret slot cleaning- pushing out sawdust/etc. i have 2 or 3 I actually use for measurements, and 2 or 3 lying around that have been sanded- used for anything but measuring I always love when a box from lmii or stewmac shows up. I had to order Indian rosewood fingerboard blank as I am completely out of IR. I think the last time I bought IR it was $8 or maybe $9 - its now $18. poof. back to the inlay- I sized the image I am using in MS Paint- and made multiple copies so when I cut out the piece parts I have clean edges on each piece. the bigger image below was just a tad too big, so- reused the paper and printed out a bunch of smaller sized images
  8. 3 points
    That stained Sapele (thru-neck build) has now seen some Tru-Oil... And the front... In full...
  9. 3 points
    congrats on the GOTM @Norris. probably one of the best first builds I have seen. @Prostheta and @Andyjr1515 now you two ball busters leave Norris alone- he is just part of a sub club here at PG that takes their time. You know. Like others we know on here. (not naming names of course )
  10. 3 points
    I've been absent for a pretty good while, my son was born on November 31st so we had a lot of preparing to do to get ready for him to be here. I've just started to get back into the swing of things so it's slow going right now. I'm just mainly trying to finish builds that have been hanging on the wall. We will be moving houses soon so I figure it'll be easier to move complete guitars instead of a bunch of pieces. Ive fretted one of the black limba m11 twins, got it finish sanded, fretted and am oiling it right now. I'm changing it up from my normal odies oil and am trying out tru oil, I'm liking it so far but it is a lot more work than odies. I've also got the purple n12 offset cleared, polished, and oiled the neck. I've just started assembly on that one so hoping to have it finished this weekend. I'll also add a few pics of my boy, definitely the most amazing thing I've ever made (he must have gotten all his moms genes)! I can't wait for him to be making his own guitars lol.
  11. 2 points
    Hi all! I'm new to the forum and new to guitar building as well. A little less than two years ago, I decided to try my hand at building guitar kits. I had turned 50 a year earlier and although I hadn't seriously played guitar in almost 30 years, I thought I might take up playing again and start a new hobby to boot. In April of 2016 I received my first two kits and dug right in. My idea was to see how things worked out on less expensive kits. If all went well, I would invest in a custom kit from Precision Guitar Kits and build my dream LP. Well, the first kits went well enough that I did pull the trigger on the PGK LP. What a fine instrument that one turned out to be. However, it would be my last kit because the next three guitars would be from scratch…and I’ve never looked back! I am posting here a video that I made recently that shows my first year of building these six guitars. It’s a compilation of the photos I took while building them. The original music I composed and play on the video is recorded with the actual guitars that I built. In the future, I’m looking forward to reading about and discussing building experiences with other luthiers on this forum. I travel a lot for work, so the building has slowed a bit, but I have just completed my design and templates for a travel guitar. Stay tuned! Chris
  12. 2 points
    Those two definitely fell from the same tree. I agree with the black rings and think you also have a little optical illusion going on caused by the angled end of your fretboard. Angles like that are always good to include so you have a built in response when the "optical illusions" kick in. SR
  13. 2 points
    That center stripe of Katalox is super hard....and looks like a slice of steak. SR
  14. 2 points
    With the Switchcraft angled toggle and barrel jack arriving, I now am happy it's going to fit fine. The toggle switch is 21mm (and actually you could grind it down to shallower still) as compared with the short version of the standard toggle being more like 23mm. I'm not a massive fan of barrel jacks but the Switchcraft ones are pretty reliable - and this will be super-accessible if ever it needs replacing In the meantime, I've started the finishing using the Osmo Polyz 3011 Gloss for the body. Whereas I have had great success with the satins and half-matts (and also the whitened RAW), in my first trial a while back I had some issues with the gloss, having a reaction and wrinkling with the second coat. I suspected that it was me rather than the varnish so (probably adding the second coat a little too soon), as this one is for me, thought I'd try it again. I have a low personal tolerance with any 'reactive' finishes, but the potential of the Osmo (especially as Ronseal have changed the formulation of their standard polyurethane varnishing that has made wiping-on problematic) is so great that is is worth persevering. And so far so good. This was the first coat last night: ...and this is the second coat today: Both times just wiped on with a cheapo household micro-fibre cloth. The neck will be finished with the satin version, slurry and buffed I have high hopes
  15. 2 points
    I really hope so! Just wiring it up at the moment, then final polishing and setup. Also, here's a little throwback to the walnut topped strat from last year. I never posted final images and it just came in for a setup...
  16. 2 points
    Tru-Oil will always add a definite amber contribution to a finish, especially if the intention is to produce a reasonable level of build. The basic oil behind the dryers and additives is linseed/flax oil, which has a very distinct yellow to amber tint. To my knowledge, the blondest polymerising natural oil is safflower, and even then that is sort of like a platinum yellow. Sort of like the colour of the Groper-In-Chief's "hair".
  17. 2 points
    That's looking good. I did a double take after my first glance at the picture...it looked like you got the whole house loaded up on the trailer. SR
  18. 2 points
    Welcome to the madhouse. I can feel another 'Are You Being Served' moment just around the corner...
  19. 2 points
    Congrats @Norris a well deserved win, I enjoyed all 23 pages of your build, I take it the next one is going to be a rush build maybe 18 months or so:)
  20. 2 points
  21. 2 points
    OK - fully exploiting the thin body profile. Well - one of the niggles I've always had about the two icon models of the Gibson Les Paul and the Fender Stratocaster (and don't get me wrong - I love both of them and believe them to have been utterly inspired and inspiring) is what happens to your fretting thumb when you reach the upper frets. So - heck - at worst I can still use the wood on the BBQ.... This is where I'd got to: The thickness at the heel is still only the same as a Strat neck....without the body attached! But it could and should be better. With 'normal' playing style, your fretting thumb still reaches full body depth before you reach the highest fret. So out came the rasp file: Which, after some careful 'creeping up on it', became this: And - with some lumps and bumps still to sand out becomes this: Functionally, it could go deeper, but from a playing point of view, you now don't feel at all on your thumb that you have reached the heel up to and including the top fret. And, to the traditionalists - well, not too whacky?:
  22. 2 points
    On the other hand if you never provide pictorial proof of finishing the instrument, you remain a member forever. SR
  23. 2 points
    Cheeky sods - it was only 2 years! Thanks a lot for everyone that voted for the Nozcaster. I'm very honoured to have it chosen against some fabulous guitars this month.
  24. 2 points
    Many, many congratulations, @Norris on your fully deserved win of GOTM ! Winning first go! And only 23 pages of thread and a mere fifteen years to complete it! Outstanding on every level!
  25. 2 points
    Well, of course after all of the debate about fret then set or set then fret and having gone for the former....what have I actually done? Of course - I've gone for the other way - set then fret After making sure the top of the neck was properly flat, I chiselled out a recess in the top: I then remembered the mantra that you can't have too many clamps: ...and that has got me to here I'm quite pleased with the binding trick - it is certainly MUCH easier than full width, full length multiple veneers!: So next job is frets....
  26. 2 points
    And...it's finished Magnetic catches fitted: And then the obligatory dark-background shots, starting with a 'before and after':
  27. 2 points
  28. 2 points
    OK - back on a proper keyboard! Back to Polyx if @Pariahrob is happy with the continued derailment There are the various gloss levels, including: 3065 half-matt; 3032 satin; 3011 full gloss and then there is the specialist 3044 RAW which is the one that has the whitener in. The others mentioned don't have any whiteners although they are all less tinted than Tru-oil. I found that all of them can be used in a 'slurry and buff' method and act as a same-colour grain fill in the same way that tru-oil can. They need an overnight drying period, so a bit longer than Tru-oil, but after fully drying over a week, they finish MUCH tougher than Tru-oil. For the Psilos, the 3044 RAW was perfect. Here's Tru-oil: And here's 3044 RAW: The ebony, being very tight grained was fine, provided I wiped ALL of it off and just left a wetted surface: The finish was pretty close to the 'standard' 3032 Satin. For the walnut and sapele re-body of the Fender Rascal, I tried the 3044 RAW on a darker wood - not what it was designed for but because the owner wanted to reduce the darkening of the walnut. This was Tru-oil: And this was 3044 RAW: You see the difference most on the upper horn. Although there are two different backgrounds, they were both taken with similar light and camera settings. So - success with this. The back sapele wasn't so good because the whitener pooled in the grain and left a slight milky look - similar to the very early acrylic varnishes: I finally finished this off with 3032 Satin after just a single application of the 3044 RAW and you can see how it's lessened the effect of the whitener a touch. But what a finish. Silky, silky smooth to the touch and tough as old boots. So if I was using Polyx on a wenge neck, @Pariahrob , I would personally use the 3032 satin, I would slurry and wipe the first couple of coats to fill some of the excessive pores in the wenge and then slurry and buff with 1000 grit with the polyx, then finish with wipe on /wipe off a couple to three coats to finish. Left a couple of weeks to fully harden, it will be able to be polished up with Meguiars Ultimate Compound (acts like a very very mild t-cut) and you will have a satin neck that is a joy to play and will keep that shredding sweat out of the wood
  29. 2 points
    So seasons greetings guys. Well, I've been a bit quite for a while. Real life always intervenes, but contrary to expectations, the last two acoustics I was working on got finished and have been farmed out to mates to test drive. For some reason I lost the appetite to continue taking pics along the way. Something that I guess I'm now regretting a bit because more than anything else they help me remember lessons learned. Here are a couple of pics of the latest 6 string I'm building. No wonky frets this time, this ones going to be fairly regular, though I am playing around with different a couple of different ways of doing things. .... 1st - using a bending machine. Effortless and totally scorch free. Given the lack of a fancy drum sander, I also tried thicknessing with a router on a sled. got down to about 2.1mm then finished off with the sandy sandy machine. Thumbs up here on both counts. 2nd - floating braces on the back with ladder bracing and a mix of x and fan bracing on the top. The logic with the floating braces ia that they will stop any movement or twisting to the ladder braces over time and I think allow them to go thinner. Which is good. I think. The fan bracing is a total shot in the dark. These pics were taken before the box was closed up. Since getting the top on, it makes all the right noises, so I'm hopeful. Again, this bracing is lighter than martin style bracing. All bracing was added to the sides before the top and back were glued. The only thing I would change to the way I did it here would be to glue top first - extra opportunity to voice and simpler to clamp down. 3rd - shellac the inside before closing. What a revelation. nice and shiney, plus the dust doesn't grab into the back. We'll see how this one turns out.
  30. 2 points
    Wax usually comes in a few different shades. I reckon wax labelled as 'clear' should allow the natural colour of the wenge to remain without getting too murky. I've got a tin of Liberon Black Bison clear wax that worked really well on some bandsaw boxes I made as Christmas presents. The darkening effect is less intense than wetting the timber with water.
  31. 2 points
    New here! Located in northern Sweden, where i live with my SO and 4 cats in a small village with 10 inhabitants. Been building on and off for maybe 10 years, with varied levels of commitment. This is my first own design, and i try to use as much local wood as possible. The neck is a 5-piece laminate from flamed birch and mahogany with a double action truss rod and a fretboard of Pau Ferro. Body wings are made from a reclaimed barn floor of spruce(i think). Top wood is sallow burl and the head is birch burl. 27,5" scale length, 6100 frets, approx 9-12" compund radius, Gotoh tuners, Tooyful individual bridge saddles, Dimarzio Super 3, compensated nut. Finished with linseed oil - shellac - satin nitro. More pics from the build here: https://imgur.com/a/s1bzn And a quick video can be found here: So... Hi guys! Guessing i am here to stay! Fun to hang around likeminded people! Cheers!
  32. 2 points
  33. 1 point
    So here is that sink I'll be bringing back to life.
  34. 1 point
    I got some work done this weekend. I finished up my 2nd neck and I did some carving on my body. The neck is wormy maple. I love the knots and colors that the worms make. I did have to fill one hole on the back of the headstock. It’s going on a tele body someone gave me. The body is ash, but it seems to have some slight flaming in places. I’ve never noticed this on ash before, but I’m new to this stuff so I’m sure you guys will enlighten me. I did a little carving in it, but I had another question. Do guys that build these types of bodies do a round over on the edges? Maybe 1/8th?
  35. 1 point
    Yeah man, you don't see people use tru oil over dyed woods a whole lot but I've been doing it for years with refinishing and now in my building. Prostheta is right, it will add a slight amber tint to your color so I've always tested on scrap to make sure I'm gonna be satisfied with the end result. Which I almost always am. That blue semi hollow above has tru oil on it and I refinished an old ibanez s1620 in green which I really liked. I use transtint dyes.
  36. 1 point
    Little progress made. Finished shaping the neck. This thing is so smooth and the wenge isn’t even finished. Just sanded up to 600 at this point. Even though I’ve had great input from you guys I’m still tempted to do a simple wax seal. Here’s the body. Test fitted the trem and building up the pickguard. Seymour Duncan ssl set. Next up inlay and fretting!
  37. 1 point
    I'll have to digest that. Now I'm wondering about some really weird ideas, like using white with dark green eaves and gray facia on the front and rear, then using gray with dark green eaves and white facia on the sides. I don't know. I'll sleep on it.
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    You must have remembered the reason you preferred to do it that way in the first place. Like when I got tired of the beard I'd worn for a dozen years and shaved it off. A week later I started a new one after remembering every morning why I grew one in the first place. SR
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Neutral mahogany filler might highlight the pores. I would suggest adding a few drops of dark brown Transtint dye so the filler will match the rosewood. Doing a test piece is always a good idea if you're doing this for the first time.
  42. 1 point
    Hard to tell exactly from the photos, and probably because it misses a part between the nut and a retainer bar, but the one one left should have the tuners rotated clockwise more than they are now. Looks like the string pull on thickest strings would end up getting inwards, to the centerline. I once threw away a nice flamed maple neck (finished and fretted) because I didn't consider that doing the wider nut would do that. It was functional, but looked too weird to me, and I couldn't accept keeping it like that. You should always draw the outer strings also (at least), to know what would it look like in the end, the centerline is not enough if you are gonna experiment with photos, nut width, etc. Here's one of my blueprints, (based on Ibanez, not exact replica) but keep in mind that the nut is a bit wider, and the tuners measurements are for the ones I used in a project. If the nut was narrower, the tuners would be rotated a bit clockwise in the drawing (or counterclockwise for non-reverse headstock). Also, if tuners had larger knobs, you would need more space between tuner holes, which would also end up with rotating them clockwise (or counterclockwise for non-reverse headstock), and a few mm longer headstock. In the end, small alterations in design doesn't have to mean in wouldn't be functional. I lost probably hours tweaking this one to my liking, and it probably could be even more precise, but it works great for me. If you want, I can help you with your blueprint, just send me your neck-to-be specs. Mods, if the picture is inappropriate, please delete, thank you.
  43. 1 point
    The 2nd n12 is a semi hollow 6 string. Sapele body, curly maple back, curly maple top, with a blue dye job and I'm still finishing it in tru oil. I will be starting on the neck this week, it will be sapele but not sure on the fretboard yet. And im really sorry guys, I'm terrible at posting build pics, I'm gonna try and work on that. Lol
  44. 1 point
    I was just labelled "1001% asshole" by one of those Facebook profile things. Feeling pretty good about it.
  45. 1 point
    Ha! Yep, wenge is def very open. I’ll head into this morning and do some testing on an offcut.
  46. 1 point
    The old standards are always good. I got some Samuel Smith Oatmeal Stout too while I was there. Can't hardly beat that stuff for the price. Also got a pint of Lagunitas Imperial Stout. I'll probably save it for Christmas.
  47. 1 point
    Poor course, I’d forgotten I could paste a link!
  48. 1 point
    congrats on the new arrival!
  49. 1 point
    Leopardwood is unstating the beauty of the timber. It's Otherworldlywood.
  50. 1 point
    It's that time again, the blanket is out! Won't be too long now before this one is finished... Although I did have to dedicate some time today to admiring this Ziricote drop-top that arrived from the US over the weekend. Love this stuff and this top is going on one of three new custom builds just started - 8-string multiscale DC (Wenge/Maple thru-neck, Sapele wings, Bocote fretboard, BKP and Hipshot hardware)... Watch this space for updates