Jump to content

Entry for August 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - ENTER HERE!

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/04/2020 in Posts

  1. 8 points
    Seeing as I got a shoeing by Scotts burl beauty last month, I thought I'd enter Adrians singlecut that I was working on along side the bass build. Specs Chambered construction with PRS style f-hole, Bosnian maple top, African mahogany body and neck, Ziricote fretboard with maple binding and mop inlays. My usual Schaller Signum bridge and Sperzel trimlock tuners, bone nut (the first nut I've cut myself) PRS 85/15 pickups 1 vol, 1 tone and 2 mini toggle switches for coil splitting. The finish was done with Angelus purple and rose leather dyes, chestnut cellulose sealer, walnut grainfiller (on the mahog) and Morrells nitrocellulose clearcoat. The build thread is included as part of the billy bongo bass build
  2. 5 points
    Thanks buddy. This one has been a serious test of that patience. Oiling neck. Finally it is similar color to the lacquered body core.
  3. 5 points
    Closing in.
  4. 5 points
    Just for the heck of it, I took my Tele template, and on some thick posterboard, traced one side, flipped it and traced the other side. Then rounded out the bottom. And cut it out. I then took some cherry wood and some purpleheart I had lying around and introduced them to Titebond. Then I took the aforementioned template and traced it onto one of the laminated plates and did unspeakable things to it with a Forstner bit. Took that one and put it on top of the other with more glue. "Scotty, I need more clamping power!" "But Cap'in, She canna stand the strain!" "Blast it Scotty, just get me more clamps!!" Scotty sighs, "Aye Cap'in." . Once the whole thing cured, I subjected it to the bandsaw. Thence came the spindle sanding. After which I found some maple. Put them together and did some trimming with the router. That's how she stands now. I shall return with more. In the meantime, remember the words of the great Groucho Marx, who said "Outside of a dog, a book is man's best friend. Inside of a dog, it's too dark to read."
  5. 5 points
    Hand built by robots for robots for Def Robot... The Def Robot Flying V Specs Sapele Neck though with Ash wings and a Panga Panga fretboard with a 10" radius, medium jumbo stainless steel frets and a Tusq XL Nut. 24 frets 646mm scale. Gotoh 510UB-C Wrap Around bridge Gotoh SG381-07 Machine Heads Seymour Duncan Distortion Mayhem neck and bridge set, with separate volume pots for each and a single tone pot with an orange drop cap. Stained with Crimson Guitars Black Stunning stain shots and finished in clear nitro Build thread -
  6. 5 points
    This thing is just about polished off, I just need to figure out where to keep the battery and install the controls for the piezo A few pictures. By the way I've reduced them 30% and hope they're interesting Ground rules, most important things first I used heat-shrink to pull the switch through, comes in handy for all sorts of reasons! One of these is a Gibson. You should be able to tell which one but not bad hey? The art of photography is something not to be scoffed at. Its quite a challenge to capture the chatoyance on 2D Under a different light You're so beautiful I want you back Who wants a chip? Up North there's a big hill called "Mt Nameless" I've been thinking its not a bad name for a guitar... Hope you all like the piccies and if you want to make a comment, go a head
  7. 4 points
    Oak Hollow body guitar This was my 4th build, I wanted to try something a bit different recycling the wood from an old oak wardrobe, carving out the hollow body by hand and having a go at making my own bridge, tailpiece and pickup rings. Very lightweight with no balance/neck dive issues. Specs Oak body, with a bolt on Maple neck and a rosewood fretboard and brass nut. 24 frets 646mm scale. Oak bridge, tailpiece and pickup rings. Wilkinson Machine Heads. Wilkinson Zebra Pickups. Colron natural Danish Oil Finish. Build thread -
  8. 4 points
    My wife said "it looks like your octopus is in jail" First of all, not an octopus. It's an unknowable cosmic god. Second, Cthulhu doesn't do jail, those are polarized vortex phase beams and they allow us to see it without going insane.
  9. 4 points
    I'm getting better at flattening two surfaces to glue together - and better at matching grain. The 1" heel extension is on: The bit that made me smile was that the grain in the walnut splice actually matches the maple! What's the chances of that? This heel extension gets the neck to the correct height. The slightly more scary bit is getting it to the right angle - but there's quite a few things I have to do before I can work out the angle and start cutting mortices and tenons. Nevertheless, that's a few more of the basic components starting to come together: The great big lump of brown-tinged ebony is what I'm going to try to carve a bridge from - when I can work out how to do that Thanks for looking, folks, and for the encouraging comments along the way.
  10. 4 points
    Still working out some details... but have a multilam neck blank glued up and figured I might as well create a placeholder for 1 of 2 basses I'll be shifting my focus to in the coming months... I'm calling it "Fish On". Going to be a 35" scale fretless but with fret markers. was originally thinking I'd do an archtop style bridge with piezo... but I just can't live with the idea of not being able to zero in on my intonnation, and none of the piezo bridges that are commercially available do it for me... so decided I'll go with a hipshot d style and string thru. I have tentative plans to do some piezo ribbons towards the neck side. anywho, below is my goal. I think I'm going to do a compound radius on this top, or at least a more aggressive radius... still working out the details. any/all feedback/thoughts/tom-foolery/encouragement welcome.
  11. 4 points
    Mine is the Fiddes. I did look at the Osmo but couldn’t get it and this Fiddes rated highly. You only need a very small can, 250ml. This is very different from other oils. It dries quickly and really hard. Here’s a slightly better pic with about three thin coats.
  12. 4 points
    And the braces are on ready for fine tuning I've roughly profiled the cross sections to a more triangular/parabola shape. Next steps will be to add the maple bridge plate and there is a small strengthener that goes across the X brace centre joint. Both of these make a difference to the flex of the top and so need to be in place before I do the final tap-tuning. Having said that, it already is returning a wide variety of notes and harmonics, which bodes well
  13. 3 points
    A question is always what to do about fret-ends. I usually de-tang the frets, fill the tang slot and then round off the fret ends. But on a few of my recent builds, I have experimented with what seems to be a win-win-win method of binding. It's worked well so far and so I'll be using it on this. Basically I: detang the fret ends; fit the frets with the ends overhanging; round and finish the fret ends; add a binding with a feature strip; round off and and slim the binding. This is what I mean: So the frets are overhanging - to an exact measurement (easy to do - you just sand the whole fretted board edge on to get to sub-tenths accuracy); the fret ends are rounded; the binding is sanded to exact height and glued on; the binding is rounded off and slimmed a touch so it is around a mere 0.25mm proud of the fret. So the win-win-win is that you get a demarcation line for free, you get a lovely rounded edge to your fretboard and you don't get sharp fret ends even if the board dries over the years. Anyway, that's the theory, and it does seem to work I have one more thing I have to check/do before any of that but, in preparation, I have a binding that couldn't have matched the macassar better if I'd tried!: And the same binding will go on the body edges (it's the 'manufactured' Rocklite Sundari product) Another final thing that P and I have sorted is the headstock. Here the intention is, if at all possible, to keep the string runs straight and to get the whole thing to fit into a standard OM/OOO size guitar case. Happily, while I was drawing it all up, the tuners (Schaller M6 mini) arrived and so I could see if it was going to work. I think it will. And have room for a couple of swifts: There's a few things to do and to check before I do any of this...but, anyway, that's the plan
  14. 3 points
    When I was young and living in a small town in Holland it never occured to me that I could actually even buy an electric guitar! After I found out I could, I bought one and regularly visited the guitar shop of Wim Heins in Holland who was also building guitars. I already started tinkering with my guitar early on, changing a SC to a humbucker in my strat, rewiring etc. The ultimate goal for me was to build a guitar from scratch which I wouldn't have thought possible if it weren't for Heins. and about 30 years later it happened: MAGIC!
  15. 3 points
    No no, I wasn't kidding. Slightly cleaner, just top get a little clarity and the touch sensitivity, more of an edge of breakup like an OD vs fuzz. Or, MORE GAIN. That would sound pretty cool with a lot of heat on it. outraged, lol. You should shred on it and bring it back to them and make them cry.
  16. 3 points
  17. 3 points
    I’ve played guitar for 50 years, and always done my own maintenance. There weren’t any guitar techs when I started. A couple of years ago I was challenged to build a Telecaster from a kit. After that I started to build my own guitars, about one a year, changing the design each time to get closer to an ideal gigging guitar. That’s more about function than looks. Binding, for example, reduces the damage when you knock your guitar against something hard. Pickup switching options increase the range of sounds, meaning fewer guitars to carry. Two years ago I started make headless guitars. Their tuning is more stable, and I’m less likely to clout the singer when the playing area is small. The latest has a Klein style body:
  18. 3 points
    so... laid out my rabbets/dados/grooves... oh my! and started cuttin' some groovey grooves... with dido playing on the radio as I did the dados... and then white rabbits as I did the rabbets. good times.
  19. 3 points
  20. 3 points
    Managed to pop round to my friends house today and asked him to do a few licks on the guitar. Once he had cleaned that off he played a few tunes...
  21. 3 points
    I'm not sure arguing over who has the worst government leader has any value in any conversation. Every leader has proven to be a total cretin in some way to somebody. Bojo is no exception and I voted for him. That's politics. I also don't get the constant argument against farming meat - During feb-april, emissions fell up to 26% in many parts of the world but the power was still on and the cows were still farting, cars, trains and planes on the other hand... I speak as a complete hypocrite driving a gas guzzler but then I only drive a few thousand miles a year and if everyone one drove their cars a few fewer miles each day, didn't take as many foreign holidays, emissions would fall.
  22. 3 points
    Well roughed in the back carve last night, waiting on the bass body to cure. Added a bit more scoop to the back side of the cutout, pics later.
  23. 3 points
    I’ve got a regular 12” Thiele cab, and then ran into a 10” EV Force 10 which is like a mini EV12L. Even though the TL806 was designed specifically for the EV12L, I thought what if I shrank it down to fit the 10”? So, I scaled the plans directly in Illustrator and re-measured everything and then built it. Surprise, it works excellently and actually sounds like a 12”. I’m most proud of the Tolex, I’ve done it before but it’s not easy. I’m using it with this tiny little Mesa TA15.
  24. 3 points
    Many thanks Andy. Really pleased with how it is looking. Here's a pic for @ScottR as promised
  25. 3 points
    Whilst waiting for the neck to cure from oiling, I did some sanding on the body and gave it a bit of a buff. I have left the pores showing on the back as I like the effect it gives. Sorry @ScottR no trees yet, was going to try and get some on the front, but it clouded over and I lost the light hopefully these clouds on the back make up for it... The front is a lot smoother... Will probably do a bit more yet as it isn't totally smooth in some areas Next job though will be tidying the fretboard and then a coat of oil so I can get started on the frets.
  26. 3 points
    You take me for a scientist, sir. I'm assuming that the enchanted juice releases the spyrit from within the wood. As soon as it reaches the surface it is communicated with the atmospheres of hell which freely float among us - to then produce the infernal burning and ash coating of eternal damnation.
  27. 3 points
    Glue up went well and I got got the brace carved with a thumb plane and a scraper Once I got the other braces cut out, I marked round them with a scalpel then used a razor saw to cut away the waist material on the bigger two, but I managed to lightly scuff the back in a couple of places with the saw to I switch to chisels and got on much better I've marked a centre line and where the carving will start on each of the braces. Then I offered up the sides to I could mark where I needed to cut the long brace short, scored it a few times with a scalpel then managed to work a big chisel underneath and carefully popped it off fairly cleanly. And I found a razor blade works really well for getting rid of the excess glue Fits quite nicely Still waiting for kerfed linings, but radius dish is coming tomorrow so I can start on shaping the braces and perhaps get them glued on.
  28. 3 points
    I don't know why it's called a Go Bar Deck...but it is. Basically, two pieces of chipboard held apart by some sturdy bolted treaded rods; the radius dish placed on the bottom; flexible rods (the Go Bars) pressing down the curve-bottomed braces into the radius dish while the glue dries: And here are all but the last four small braces. This will be left overnight for the glue to fully cure and dry and then I'll add the last four braces. And then we will have a subtly spheroidal top ready for the braces to be slimmed in cross section - and then the tap tuning can commence
  29. 3 points
    Made a new one, I wanted to make the inner holes smaller. Really pleased with the result. All I need to do now is route a 1/2” slot. This is going to add some mass to the body, it weighs 3.7oz and is made from stainless.
  30. 3 points
    Well, still pacing up and down like the proverbial expectant father waiting for the remaining timber to arrive. So modest progress this week. Basically, thinned the back to 2mm and cut out the over-sized outline. But every step, as they say...
  31. 2 points
    Before I taper and fret the board I need to add the dots. For the 12th fret I'll put a couple of swifts there: Then some diagonals, parallels and perpendiculars to mark the centre-points of the other dots (actually going to use diamonds): And then the key dot positions routed for the diamonds and glued with epoxy mixed with macassar sanding dust: While I was at it, I fitted swifts into the blanks that will be used for the headstock plate and the heel plate: Cleaned up, the fretboard is now ready for tapering and fretting:
  32. 2 points
    I know I'm super late to this party. I've got a 14" bandsaw with an extension riser. The things that helped my resawing were: - SLOW FEED. Most important to not let the wood drift the blade. - set up the guides really well, I use Cool Blocks in mine also. - skip tooth blade 3-4 tpi - single point fence seems to help For blades, I've gone with good quality but not boutique. Powertec or Olsen. As long as the other stuff mentioned is addressed, then the blade wasn't as big of deal. That said, I'm sure that the resaw blades cut nice. The last time I bought a resaw blade, I ran into some blades made for butchers cutting frozen meats. I don;t remember what it was about them, but people said they worked great for resawing wood. Didn't get any at the time, but I'm still tempted to try them. https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/precision_band_saw/
  33. 2 points
    Wood is a natural product by Mother Nature and the grooves and the pores within are there to transfer vital elements to make the tree grow. Some tree species have smoother grain than others, maple and beech are among the less groovy ones. Basswood is also pretty smooth but it can be a PITA to sand flush as the fast grown summer grain is much softer than that of the resting period. There's two ways to make a good looking solid paint job on a guitar. One is to sand it smooth and let the grain pattern show. In your case that's not the best option as the wood is made of several small pieces. So a glass smooth surface is what we're aiming for. As you suspected, filler is needed. After having got the shape right and sanded apply the filler all over liberally and after it has dried, sand it smooth. An orbital is definitely better than a grinder, a vibrating sander can be even better for fine sanding. Then again, a good block and elbow grease won't take too long either if you know how to sand by hand. (Trick: Use minimal pressure to avoid clogging!) Filler may not be enough for the smoothest surface, you'll also need primer. You can think of it as a thinner sort of filler. That has to be sanded as well. Then it's time for the paint which you may need to sand as well between layers. A clearcoat over the paint is optional but it can add an extra layer of protection to the colour. And even that can be sanded with very fine abrasives - wet papers and pastes - and finally buffed. Note that every scratch under the paint will shine like a lighthouse so proper sanding is a must!
  34. 2 points
    Its been a while since i last checked in. Hope you are all safe! Ive taken on way too much work. 12 hour days every day to catch up.
  35. 2 points
    I'm glad I'm considering this build as a prototype, lots of imperfections I need to deal with on the next build of this model. Will take some time to write up my lessons learned and share that with you all. In the mean time, I'm finishing up. First time installing a Gotoh/Wilkinson floating trem. Had to route my neck pocket in an angle of about 1,5 degrees to make the bridge line up better to allow for decent action setup and correction. Also had to do some routing in my cavity to be able to tighten the output jack. After these corrections I was able to set it up and intonate correctly. Also installed the electronics and did a test-drive. Playing and sounding good, allthough I think I will have a final look at the neck thickness. next pics will be in the August GOTM submission thread! yay! Now I only need to find me some cheap white plastic to use as cavity cover and to make a trussrod cover......
  36. 2 points
    As a player, I've been a beginner for maybe 12 years. My first couple of builds used medium tall fret wire and then I switched to jumbo and stayed with that. It is more forgiving for imprecise fingering and particularly barre chords. The down side is if you are heavy handed and squeeze too tight, you can pull your notes sharp. Fretboard thickness depends on a number of things. Strength is one. Two way truss rods press against a fretboard as it forces the neck to bend. U-channel, not so much. You need to leave a little meat under the slots to conserve that strength. If you have a tight radius to your fret board, the fret slots at the edges are going to use more of the thickness of the board. A flatter radius will give you more play. 1/16" at the center of the board is not uncommon for higher radius boards. And then finally you need to consider the thickness of the neck you prefer. Again for strength you want to keep some meat under the truss rod channel. I like 3/16" minimum, but certainly no less than 1/8". If you are shooting for a thin neck then go with 3/16' in the middle of your fretboard, and save some room for under the channel. If you like a chunky neck then a thicker fretboard is nice. SR
  37. 2 points
    This is how the figuring of the back will wrap round to the sides. The lighter wood will come out more yellow and the darker areas will darken more: The top glue job looks OK: Now - the traditional way of doing this is to glue the back on, do the corner bindings top and back and then do everything else (like bridge clamping, fitting pickups, etc, etc) reaching blind through the soundhole. For Matt's Dreadnought, I proved to myself that you can do the top binding, rout the neck mortice slot, trial fit the neck, fit the internal pickup transducers and everything and THEN glue the back on. And that is a lot, lot easier. So that's also what I will do here. I might do the top binding soonish, but the focus now will be neck and fretboard
  38. 2 points
    In trouble with the Missus are you? That sounds suspiciously like us saying -well, back in the doghouse again. Whatever the circumstances, you are getting some very nice work done while you're there. SR
  39. 2 points
  40. 2 points
    I should mention, a fret rocker will quickly reveal what is going on.
  41. 2 points
    When I'm levelling frets, I don't use a notched straight edge - I only use a notched straight edge when I'm building the guitar and working with frets that have never been levelled. The reason for is that you want the frets to be level with each other and the fretboard itself doesn't matter. So if you're doing a bog-standard fret level on a guitar, just use your regularly trust-worthy straight edge and adjust your trussrod the the frets are as close to level (with each other) as you can get them, then do your level and you should find that you remove much less material from the frets than if you get the fretboard itself perfectly flat with a notched edge because frets are often not hammered or pushed in evenly and fretboards were not always flattened properly before frets were installed.
  42. 2 points
    Most of you'll know that I've falled afoul of the recent unemployment avalanche thanks to the rabid zombie flu. It is what it is. I'm also mid-move from this place to our new home, so guitar builds are off the table....but planning a new space to work is. Part of that is to get around to building a proper router table and improving work capability in general. Buying a new home comes with a lot of expense, and certainly, having your own tools and capability to do the work yourself from raw materials makes tools pay for themselves. Things like door frames, skirting boards, picture rails, coving, architrave, door thresholds, etc. So I introduced @ScottR to my spirit animal, who also happens to be a Japanese guy. His router table isn't anything particularly innovative or original, but certainly very well-built and organised. I need a bit of that in my life, especially since I'm built like the 70s and deeply disorganised.
  43. 2 points
    Thanks Scott, very much appreciated! I am really happy with how it has come out and glad the shapes worked. Have to agree the pic looking up the body with the angles of the wings is my favourite part. I keep looking at it and thinking 'did I really do this?'
  44. 2 points
    can't drink, can't eat anything good... the only thing I have left is coffee and cigarettes... well coffee and vape anyway.
  45. 2 points
    Your thick headstock cap is mimicking a scarf joint so that is alright....but there is not much of it. The curved joint is 2:1 end grain joined over long grain join. End grain to end grain glue joints are notoriously weak, so I would be wary of this configuration. It could work okay, you should test fit some scrap and see how it holds up to abuse before committing it to a guitar build. SR
  46. 2 points
    A couple of updates from today. Did a bit of tidy up on the headstock and tested the truss rod cover in place. Still a few marks near the nut that need tidying up. Also sanded the body back and tidied it up, the logo looks a lot better and is totally level with the body. Still needs going over with a rubbing compound and final polish. Very happy with how it is looking with the hardware. Still working on the neck, so haven't oiled the fretboard yet. Getting closer though...
  47. 2 points
    And while the bracing is drying, there is time to start putting the linings around the edges of the body sides. These held strengthen and stiffen the body but their main function is that the top and back will be glued onto these. While the edges are also glued, those joints will actually be routed away to fit the binding on the external edges. The kerfing (the saw cuts) allow the linings to bend round the fairly tight bends of the sides. The clothes pegs with stiff rubber bands wrapped round provide more than adequate clamping all the way round while the glue dries. At this stage, the linings are set a mm or so proud of the sides because - on account of the top and back being spheroidal - they will be planed at an angle and sanded in the radius dishes to produce a good fit all the way round prior to gluing.
  48. 2 points
    I agree, spoke to Matt yesterday and he's really happy with it, good choices were made! Yeah I think oil is definitely the way go go with this one, I'm also looking forward to doing an oil finish for a change as I haven't done one 5 guitars ago. also much less work than lacquer! I've never used any plans for any PRS style builds, just acrylic templates from G&W. In fact the only time I've ever used bought plans is for the current acoustic build I think it must depend on the tele, Matt has a mexican 72 walnut duluxe, but it's not walnut at all other than a paper thin veneer on the top and back, the body is alder and it's fairly light weight, just tinted to look more walnutty. Yeah I am most definitely not a tele man, I'd have one made out of a piece of walnut like that, but then if I had another piece like that, I'd probably make something with carved top out of it Got the angle grinder out earlier, needs some finessing but it fits my rotund belly nicely. I put the template on the back and drew round so I could see where the chambers are, did not want to make any rear facing sound holes
  49. 2 points
    I used to cut a hole in a towel and lay it over the guitar and wire through the hole. SR
  50. 2 points
    The teacher has now evaluated the project, 85/100 plus hints how to make the next project more interesting. There's one very happy girl and a proud father here!
×
×
  • Create New...