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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/18/2018 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Done. Those Klein '58 PAFs sound great, they have a ton of character. SR
  2. 5 points
    Hi, this is my last build, GV guitars, a SC245 clone semihollow. This is my seventh building. I build in my workshop for hobby and I love PRS guitars. You can see a building pictures process to my facebook page Enjoy Specs: Honduras body Khaya neck Malasyan blackwood fretboard Maple top Maple mounting rings 24.5" scale lenght 12" fretboard radius with jumbo Sintoms frets Marco Pontillo (MP Pickups) custom humbuckers CTS control pot, push-pull control tone for humbucker split
  3. 3 points
    Managed to get it salvaged!
  4. 2 points
    A bit of extra time spent in the workshop this weekend between other extracurricular duties. Body edges rounded over with a 1/4: radius: Pickup cavities given the extra bit of step-down to provide clearance for the cables underneath each soapbar: Plus the pickup wire channels drilled: At first glance the neck pickup wire channel looks to be taking off at a strange angle. But, to quote Baldrick, I have a cunning plan. Because the pickups are so narrow I can't get the drill bit in at sufficiently shallow angle to aim it back towards the control cavity in a straight line without gouging the corner of the pickup route. And due to the narrow width of the route, the target to aim for if drilling from the control cavity back the other way makes me leary of being able to accurately come out in the right spot. So the way around it I've come up with is to take advantage of the battery compartment and make two short jumps instead of one: Inside the battery chamber is a shallow undercut on the top edge which should give sufficient clearance for the pickup wire to snake around the outside of the battery box and into the control chamber. Once the battery box is installed it will be completely invisible. And yes, I've got a honest-to-goodness router scrape on the left edge of the control cavity there. I hope @ScottR approves of my handmade error to bring the CNC'ed accuracy back down to earth. Final trick is to try and repair that chipout on the pickup edge: First I need to clean up the bottom edges of the chip so I have something flat and straight-ish to glue the chip to. This bit always makes me nervous, as it has to get worse before it gets better: Then test fit some scraps to find the closest match. This one looks pretty close (ignore the shadow being cast around the edges due to the chip being slightly higher than the surrounding wood): And finally devise some kind of method of clamping it in place while the glue sets. Due to the odd location the only thing I could think of was to stretch a piece of tape up and over the edges of the pickup cavity and neck pocket, and then clamp it into the corners to stretch the tape tight over the chip. Fingers crossed:
  5. 2 points
    First problem was searching “micromesh” on Amazon Japan ... no hits. Bezos may own the world, but Amazon USA and Amazon Japan are not on speaking terms. Next, ya gotta have the hyphen. Fortunately, I have an American account, and they will ship to Japan a lot cheaper than eBay. So weird how companies will “ship worldwide,” but consider Japan to be another planet. Thanks guys, I did find it, and will buy it ... but might just pick some up if I can find it in Hawaii next week. My grandson is having his First Birthday Party ... a BIG DEAL in Hawaii! My daughter is now working as an A.D. on “Magnum P.I.” so decided she can fly my wife and I there to celebrate. Good Kid! (I asked if I could drive the Ferrari, but apparently “Higgins” said NO!) Just a thought, but would using a quality wet/dry paper #1000 ~ #2000 ~ #3000 accomplish the same thing? That I have in hand now ...
  6. 2 points
    The wifey, young son and I went to creature comforts last weekend for a special release of "double dry hopped Trop" which is a double dry hopped (galaxy hops) version of their kick ass tropicalia ipa. I was in line for 40 min and they sold out 4 people ahead of me. It happens- so- go inside and join the family and get me one, good stuff. Mrs Natch (to the right)was having the Automatic pale ale and young son was doing the sour- Tritonia Gose with cucumber and lime. then I got a flight to try out some diff brews- left to right dayspring -grisette (a cousin of saison) made with local wheat. 5.3%- this was surprisingly good goodie pils- pilsner dry hopped and tasted like crap. not good stuff. koko buni- my favorite porter of all time. automatic. mosaic and crystal hops in a lower abv pale ale. yummy after we finished our brews we headed over one block to the Trapeze Pub for some grub -the drink menu was nice so- i grabbed a half pour of the Burial Shadowclock Pilsner. It was a very good pilsner- but I have to admit- I dont like pilsner like I used to. The young son got the Monday Night Brewing Rucksack(middle) which was very good and Mrs Natch got the Weihenstephan/Sierra Nevada Braupakt which is a hoppy Hefeweissbier. Its different- it was too hoppy for mrs natch- it lacked all hefe character- ie- no banana bread taste or smell. Young natch came to the rescue and traded his wheat beer for the hefe and mom/mrs natch was all good. Optical illusion- or whatever- the hefe and the wheat beer are the same volume of beer- just way different glasses.
  7. 2 points
    Fretboard at 6.35mm (1/4") was a tad too thick for my tastes, so took 0.5mm off the middle with a trimmer, then scraped/sanded/scraped to 5.8mm. I will later take a bit more off the top, with a little angle toward the nut to offset edge thickness, and then bind it with 1.5mm black. (I understand this is a bit unusual, but hoping it is a "good" unusual. Glued and clamped, waited and released, the joint looks nice, the truss rod works without binding. Now I just hope it works WITH binding, Haha! A coat of urethane over the shellac tells me that the shellac performed it's sealing task as advertised. Considering a light burst, and natural maple edges around the bevels and soundhole.
  8. 2 points
    hi guys, Next update: So after the bronze was casted into the mold. I finally could take the casted piece out of the plaster, to see what the result was. Feast your eyeeeezzzz... As you can see this is a rough cast, and i just took the gating of the piece. I am always amazed to see your own plastic computer designed and 3d printed stuff take shape into solid metal. After this i cleaned it up, sanded the piece to get the dirt and little stuff off. And then we have this..... The orange version was the first one printed, but had a wrong scale length, and to much excess shape/weight. And here she is. My bronze guitar. In this stadium, it's just the backbone of my future model i want to make. But first i wanted to try to make the basics, and put some strings on it, to see if it could be tuned. The next step was to design some ergonomic nice shapes to define my guitar. Stay tuned.... Owyeah, keep in mind that the neck you see is just a cheap neck i bought online. For the final guitar i will make something different. Benoit
  9. 1 point
    Hello all. My name is Garrett and this is my music box... Made mostly out of spare parts that I had lying around from gutting / modding other guitars, it stands as the first thing I've built that actually makes proper noise. Go ahead and laugh.
  10. 1 point
    Hi The demarcation veneer between the top and back was a 'standard' 0.6mm. I used the same veneer between the fretboard and neck.
  11. 1 point
    As you say, most people say you don't need to use anything and I am sure that is true. I confess that I slurry and buff tru-oil on ebony boards in the same way that I slurry and buff the necks. I find that it fills the grain and produces an organic feeling yet silky smooth surface that neverthless resists sweat marks, etc.. Of course, untreated ebony doesn't actually sweat stain like other woods but it does, in my experience, dull off. I'm sure there are other views, though.
  12. 1 point
    The Ebony fretboard is a typical Gibson scale, so there wasn't anything past the headstock side of the nut ... but I wanted a "Nut Support." Chopped a little bit of the unused fretboard and glued it in place, then shaped it with the Dragon rasp.
  13. 1 point
    So I've basically just been layering up poly on the body, no interesting pics of that, but I did dip my toe into neck building - I Originally intended to go with the purchased neck on this one, but thought if I can even just copy that one for my first go, I can have a completely self built instrument. I messed about with a few jig ideas but this setup seemed to be simple and effective... All clamped up, next step will be the carve!
  14. 1 point
    Okay, interview went well. I was taken onboard on the spot. Depending on how quickly we can transition to Turku, I'm going to be without a workshop for some months. No idea how I'm going to cope with that. That and I might have immediate site work in Norway to install over 2000m² of Teak flooring. If it all goes to plan, we might be able to get together the deposit on a house on the income we might hit. Phew.
  15. 1 point
    I just took all my measurements, compared them to the National average, and found that my measurements are all average for a white man ages 18-25... though I am 4" taller than average. I'll be petitioning DPS to reflect the proper age on my driver's license.
  16. 1 point
    I finally got off my lazy ass and oiled the walnut-cherry neck for the lattice acoustic today.
  17. 1 point
    I use photoshop... not because it is a great tool, but because I have learned it over the years in other capacities. Gimp is a good free version of it. I should really get to know gimp as my ps is outdated and is just a limited version I got ages ago. Gimp seems to have all the same functionality, but a different gui. I take pictures of my actual wood and have built a folder of them. Its nice to be able to play with the images and decide the orientation of said wood. Still learning new things there, and def a challenge to make the finished build live up to the drawing but:
  18. 1 point
    Amazing guitar Scott, it shines like a mirror and really love the top and the magnetic electronic covers system. Scorpionscar
  19. 1 point
    It's difficult to say at this stage. Neck pickups tend to be wound lower than bridge pickups since the larger string movement at the neck position creates a lot of output anyway. I presume that this volume difference is larger than that might be caused through pickup height adjustment?
  20. 1 point
    looks great Scott- she's a beaut!
  21. 1 point
    sorry for so many posts lately! so last week I (also) ordered some tops from 'downhomewood' on etsy - has anyone else tried them? You don't get to pick between quilt/flame/burl - it's random chance between those 3. Liz from DHW, assured me "you'll be happy - look at our reviews" (they do have good reviews). They are 1/4 tops for $30 ea and shipping is $15 for up to 3, so I snagged 2 of them. I just got them in the post (last night) and am pleasantly surprised. One is quilt and the other is sort of quilt/flame. Just the other day I almost pulled the trigger on a 1/8" quilt top for $125 on evilbay. DHW def scratched that itch! Just wanted to pass along the tip - in case anyone was on the fence like me - I think it is a super deal. What do you think? Pics below. quilt: the flame/quilt
  22. 1 point
    Topside, bridge positioned correctly, through-holes go through, ground wire hole goes where it should. Neck pocket operation went well, still gotta go down another 2mm, but can't get 35mm (11mm template + 24mm pocket depth) with this bit. Will finish depth another day. But the pocket is reasonably tight and very, very straight ... no noticeable deviation from centerline. Yay!
  23. 1 point
    Checked neck alignment and treble "e" saddle location, and it's looking good. Used the bevel template to mark the top and also neck pocket and pickup location.
  24. 1 point
    must.... buy..... more.... wood! $16 for these two... 7/8. make a nice mild top if I just match up two pieces(not bookmatch)? Have my doubts.
  25. 1 point
    I tried to drill the centre hole, or rather expand the centre hole that was already there from gluing them up (I used a toothpick to hold them in place), but for whatever reason it drilled off centre, so I had to Dremel it instead. I pushed a dowel in there to give me something to hold onto, clamped the Dremel with a little sanding drum in a bench, and started shaping. so heres the first one roughly shaped.
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