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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/02/2020 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Alright, finally finished this build! Here she is: Slight scallop in the higher frets, not too deep, doesn't go all the way across to the bass side, just where I need it for bends and such. Super happy with the way these logos came out, first time I've ever had a proper set made. Glad I went with metal too. This was extremely fun to design and build, and was a big step forward for me in the technique department. This is also the best fretwork I've managed to pull off to date, and it plays better than anything I've built before. I'll do a little demo of it soon. Thanks for all the encouragement everyone!
  2. 8 points
    I had to use some lacquer thinner and a razor blade to get the double sided tale adhesive off. As long as the grain is jumping, I might as well take some glamour shots. SR
  3. 8 points
    HI Guys, I would present my 1st build (after my 2nd which was a Thunderbird bass from January). Guitar name is: LP-1. This is my single cut, Les Paul, whatever you want to call it. I didn't spend significant time on the design, the goal was apply a standard sunburst technic. I really wanted to make a vintage look with brown and amber colors and definitely not a relic design. It was much more done by my instincts than done by experience but frankly I could really surprise myself with the finish. I used Crimson stains and closed it with high build guitar oils which applied only one time for matte finish. The body is simple basswood, the neck is maple and the fretboard is rosewood. The hardware is pretty standard chrome stuffs, the plastics are cream and gold. Because I like trash metal so much I chose EMG 81/85 active humbuckers for heavy sounds - and it sounds like a HELL! I hope you like it because I LOVE to play on it. Regards, Ratesz
  4. 8 points
    The Pimp Hi y’all! Wanted to do a thematic build so I imagined a guitar with pimp aesthetics. purple velvet jacket, gold bling, raw p90 sound etc 2 piece Korina body sealed with shellac and painted in ultra thin-skin nitro. Halon gold hardware trem and bridge (you gotta try these! Best quality! World - class alloys and tone!) Nick Silver blue moonlight pickups alnico II 50s style p90s gotoh vintage gold tuners ebony fretboard 16” radius tortoise shell pickguard real mop inlays 4-ply laminated neck flame maple with walnut. home-made decal layered angled headstock (9 degrees) loved the tone! You can rock out with it, play the blues and surf for dayzz! enjoy!! https://youtu.be/7o0ZYNWLxZE
  5. 7 points
    And now it is fun time! SR
  6. 7 points
    So far so good! I tried staining it black and it reacted with the wood and turned it purple...so sanded it back and experimented with different colours. Black to highlight the grain, then some yellow and some brown. I’m liking this effect. Turned out that the bridge was too wide for the neck, so to cut a long story short I modified it and it is now a hardtail. The plus side of this is that it saved quite a bit of weight, that brass block was heavy! Some modifying of the scratch plate is now needed, so that it folllows the curves better.
  7. 7 points
    1957 Futura build I've been building for about 7 years now. It's a hobby I started with my dad where we built a couple of guitars together at his work shop. Since then I have been adding to my own workshop over the years. I have been pulled towards the "golden era" of electric guitars. The late 50's and through the 60's. I started with almost no wood working experience but I have a background in CAD and computers. Here is the link to the build thread here - 1957 Futura build Here is how the guitar looked when finished. It was my first attempt at a vintage nitro cellulose vintage finish, complete with finish checking. Regards Peter.
  8. 6 points
    Got a little demo recorded this afternoon. Cheers!
  9. 6 points
    Hey guys n' gals, this is The Shiv. This is my first build documented here on Project Guitar, and my first submission to the guitar of the month. I've been building since highschool, but too a ~10 year break from full builds to focus on playing and modifying, with my first full guitar "back in the saddle" being last year, and now this one. It's the most complex build I'd done to date, and features a bunch of ideas I've collected from other builders over the years. I wanted this to look aggressive yet refined, and included some subtle details to that effect, like the diamond volute, solid aluminum logo, and magnetized curly maple cavity cover. Build thread: Specs: - African mahogany body - Curly maple top and headstock cap, natural curly maple binding throughout - 5 piece neck, curly maple and ebony strips - Pau ferro fingerboard and truss rod cover, solid MOP offset dot inlays - 25.5" scale, 24 Jescar jumbo stainless steel frets, partially scalloped - Bareknuckle Holy Diver pickups - Gotoh Tune-O-Matic bridge - Hipshot locking tuners, reverse headstock - 3-way toggle, volume, tone, and two coil spitting switches, one for each humbucker - Satin lacquer finish Pics: Video demo below: Cheers!
  10. 6 points
    I got a couple of things partially done this weekend....nothing especially picture worthy. I got frets in and the ends beveled, but I have not leveled or dressed the frets yet. I realize that I change the fret end dressing constantly while carving and sanding the neck. I decided to carve and sand the neck first and then level and dress the frets. So the neck is carved and roughly sanded. It still have a fair number of tweaks left before I'm completely happy with the shape and feel. SR
  11. 5 points
    I did finish carving my logo/initials. Some refinement still to come, but it will remain obvious that it was hand carved. I wiped a little mineral spirits on the HS cap and fretboard to see how they will look together....and to get the little boost that gives me to see it. SR
  12. 5 points
    This last post for the day gets us pretty much up to date. I had a pair of Artec Ric-ish humbuckers in my bits box from a project that never got off the ground. Tom's preference - like the first African Bass - was the pickups hardwired to the jack. But "Could the jack be at the back? And could it be angled a bit Stratocaster style?" Hmmm...now here's the problem. The body is so thin, that a jack, pushed into the body fitted with a strat jack plate would - literally - poke out of the other side! So, whatever, it was going to have to be mounted higher. A had a strat plate in my bits box and pondered a day or two. I could make the essence of the jack plate, but surface mount it: But wait a minute. If I took a stat plate and put it upside down... : Leaves the jack a bit exposed, but maybe looks a bit more elegant? I put it to Tom. Although I knew which one he would choose: And where he would want to place it! So, to make sure this was going to be well clear of legs and hips, I popped some temporary strap buttons on and had a look exactly where the jack would come with a traditional 'jack lead once round the strap for security' fixing. Then drilled me a hole : Then strapped it on and crossed my fingers: The blue is my shirt, the grey my hip with the bass in full playing position! And surprisingly - and however much air-guitaring I did - much safer than the Fender vertical into the scratchplate at the front in terms of accidentally knocking the jack Finally, cut the pickup chambers: And then two of the scariest drill holes ever. One to join up the two chambers, drilled from the neck pocket, and one from the edge, intersecting the jack chamber and into the rear pickup chamber: The hole in the edge will be filled with a 6mm fretboard dot I've done the initial carve on the neck and attached the fretboard, and that's the project fully up to date so far. As always, many thanks for looking!
  13. 5 points
    Purple Haze This is my third working guitar, it’s definitely the best one so far. I would say it’s heavily based on a Jackson dinky with some inspiration from ESP. This build had a lot of firsts for me: First time Maple walnut laminate neck First time binding and my own laminate binding at that First time doing inlays First time adding a top First time staining anything Certainly a learning experience but very, very pleased with the results. Specs: Flamed maple top with limba body Flamed maple with walnut laminate neck Maple and walnut laminate bound ebony fretboard with abalone acrylic inlays 14” radius neck with jumbo frets Gotoh tuners Original Floyd Rose with some upgrades such as a brass trem claw (for looks not sound), fat brass block and turbo arm. Emg Het Set pickups And a couple of video clips put together very rushed to show the dirty and clean sounds. Please pass no remarks on the playing! Or the weird faces I make when playing ...didn’t realise I did that till now https://youtu.be/awuYWO38V1U https://youtu.be/ZHkQYJyWoW8
  14. 4 points
    Hey guys n’ gals, the wood all came in for my next build so I figured I’d get this thread started! This will be a 7-string multiscale guitar, and will have a very similar design to my most recent build. However, this guitar’s theme will be the blood moon, and as such it will feature colors, inlays, and other design elements to suit. Projected specs: - Quilted maple top and headstock cap, natural quilted maple “binding” - Ribbon mahogany body - Roasted single-piece curly maple set neck with 2x carbon fiber rods - 25.5”-26.25” multiscale with perpendicular fret at 8 or so, 24 stainless steel frets, slight upper fretboard scallop - Undecided on fretboard wood, either quilted maple or ebony - Locking Sperzel tuners - Hipshot multiscale fixed bridge - Bareknuckle Juggernaut humbuckers - Some lunar-themed inlays in the fretboard and elsewhere. Pics of the wood: Really looking forward to this one, and should be able to get to work on it soon. Cheers!
  15. 4 points
  16. 4 points
    Hi! Dmitry Sushkov here and I proudly present the Wahlgaard mk. II - a 9 strings electric guitar made for Ragne Wahlquist of Heavy Load band, Swedish heavy metal pioneers. The purpose of second build is some design and functional improvements after playing some concerts with first one, which I posted here some time ago. Main improvement is shorter scale for better behavior of first .007" string, originally supposed to tune in Ab. But we're also updated the look with more inlays and new custom designed top lock. This build took me whole year 2019. Most of the time was spent on inlay job, my favorite part. About me. I'm building custom guitars since 1999, I don't remember exact numbers but I can say I have built about 150 guitars in total which are living all around the world now. The Wahlgaard II is my 5-th guitar built in my own small shop in Prague. Here is the link to build progress thread And here are the specs: Guitar construction: Headless, 9 Strings, double cutaway, special archtop design, set-neck Body material: Korina Top material: 16 mm American black walnut bookmatched top Body construction: LP style archtop front with back comfort contours and bridge tuning pegs cavity Neck construction: 3 piece with carbon stripes (total 5 parts), no headstock Neck angle: 3 degrees to body Neck material: Korina, 3 parts Neck reinforcement stripes: carbon fiber Truss rod: Double-action 500 mm, adjustable nut under string holder Fretboard material: Ebony 85mm width Fretboard radius: 20” (508mm) Fretboard width at nut: 66 mm Nut: Black TUSQ (Hipshot) Fret marker inlays: Black ravens, walnut leaves, sword and Wahlquist symbol Frets: 20x2.5 mm + 9x2mm SINTOMS Stainless steel frets Scale length: 671 mm Neck thickness: 1 fret = 20 mm, 12 fret = 22 mm Strings: First string (.007) is a special type of string from Octave plus The other strings are Ernie Ball 9-String 28" Scale string No size tuning first .007 Ab second .009 Eb third .012 Bb fourth .016 Gb fifth .024 Db sixth .034 Ab seventh .042 Eb eighth .056 Bb ninth .080 F String spacing on nut: Equal string spacing calculated as 6,361 mm, standard 4 mm from string to edge String spacing on bridge: 10,4 mm Bridge: 9 individual Mera Submarine III (rev. 2) Gold plated Top-lock: 9-string custom made solid locking nut, gold plated Controls: 3 pots V+V+T Active electronics: JFET high quality low power adjustable preamp to boost volume by 2-6dB Pickup selector switch: 3-way 4PDT switch Additional active/passive control switch: 3-way 4PDT switch Neck pickup: Custom made vinatage PAF inspired 9-string pickup without covers bobbins both creme, including creme pickup ring Bridge pickup: Custom made vinatage PAF inspired 9-string pickup without covers creme/black bobbins, including creme pickup ring Pot knobs: Metal regular sized dome knobs GOLD Output jack: Gold switchcraft long threaded barrel jack Strap buttons: Gold Schaller Strap Locks Body art: Customer's signature on the lower part Body binding: Mother of Pearl stripe Finish: Modern high-gloss polyester Case: Molded plastic hard case with custom interior Some sound clips: And some completed pics:
  17. 4 points
    trying to work through this craziness thats been happening! This red one is really hard to photograph. This thing literally glows in person! It has 3 different tints of red and orange on it. I also did my first stainless steel fretting in about 10 years. Not as much of a pain as i remember, but still a pain.
  18. 4 points
    Bathroom ceiling painted Carpet vacuumed Hair, fluff, random bits of string (!) cut away from vacuum cleaner brushes Carpet vacuumed again Enough brownie points accrued, frets polished I don't like levelling and crowning, but polishing is quite satisfying. Micro mesh pads followed by a polish with Meg's ultimate Too late and tired now to do another coat of Tru Oil - it's always best to stop and tackle it fresh another day, or run the risk of a fatigue-induced error
  19. 4 points
    been working on other things, as well as not feeling like working on guitars as much. Still been trying to make it happen though.
  20. 4 points
    Arrived. Together with her 2 years older sister at home.
  21. 4 points
    First coat of primer...really shows the imperfections & grain that I guess I didn’t fill quite enough. Going to fill again & sand back a bit before next primer coat not too terrible I can work with these
  22. 4 points
    The other mission is to use offcuts and bits-box contents as much as reasonable. A kindly soul from one of the other forums saw the above photo and said "I have just the fretboard wood for that - panga panga!" I confess, I'd never heard of panga panga but it turns out it a very much a wenge-type wood, but it has that hint of orange in the body wood. It was going to be perfect! I also had a spare length of rock maple from a just-in-case-over-order. This would work But this was all going too smoothly. So what else could we add to make it a challenge? Ah - of course. Let's make it multi-scale. Tom's preferred bass scale is 32", so how about 33" to 31"? See what I mean about the panga panga toning in well with the body wood?
  23. 4 points
    So here we are. Project is already started although still a way from completion. In some ways, the new blank is better for the purpose than the first one. It is still only a touch under 25mm thick, but it is all of the Bakelite-hard part of the tree (still don't know what species it is) and the carve is a touch less wavy. Here is what Tom passed across to me: I pondered a lot. The previous one was where I experienced the build-changing epiphany that if you had a decent through neck, then the strength/size/thickness characteristics of the body didn't really matter. So should I do that again? Of course not. What's the fun if you KNOW it's going to hold together when you string it up?? So this one (remember, the body is only 25mm thick) is going to be a bolt-on
  24. 3 points
    Hi PG Squad! I've been a long time lurker on this forum, and with quarantine keeping me at home I finally dove into my first ever build. Here are the specs: Shape: Solid body inspired roughly by Fender offsets, specifically the Meteora Body wood: Alder Scale: 25,5inch Neck: Bolt-On Maple Fretboard: 22 Fret Rosewood, inlays tbd Bridge: Fender tremelo Pickups: Fender 57'/62' reissue Controls: Standard s-type Tuners: Gotoh locking I started by designing the guitar in Fusion: Printing templates: And getting my alder body blank glued up: Ultimately if I have something playable at the end of this I'll consider it a huge success. I've seen the community on PG help several others through their first builds and hopefully they'll be as gracious with me when I undoubtedly have questions!
  25. 3 points
    With Tom's African Bass Mk2 getting pretty close, it's time to start thinking about the next full build. And I'm a bit excited about this one. Does anyone remember this SG-influenced neck-through build I did a few years back for one of our band members, Pete? : And those with REALLY long memories, anyone remember this own-design I built for myself in Yew? Well, both guitars are still in use. Pete & I are still playing (or were until the recent UK lockdown!) - him lead guitar and me vocals & sax. And at one of the places we regularly play, another player - Matt - has started making pickups. And for his first attempt at humbuckers I offered the Yew guitar above as the test bed. So Matt has been playing that for the past few weeks. Matt has drooled over Pete's SG for some time. But he was also a bit bowled over by how good Yew can look once it's been carved and varnished. So the new project is an SG-style guitar made for Matt....made with a Yew top. And I just happen to have a book-matched set that has been languishing in my shed for years : And I'm excited because - although you have to be very careful routing and sanding Yew because it is pretty poisonous - I found it a nice wood to work with...and this is going to look FABULOUS And, let's face it, it's not like I'm going anywhere else over the next few weeks...
  26. 3 points
    Most of my basses have a bit of a back story, so this one is no different. My very good friend became a dad for the first time a few months back. I'd like to present him with something kinda special and personal, so here goes I'm kinda reinventing the wheel here as I go, as this will all be handmade, so the procedures are quite different to Warwick's... I have also ommited the first few steps, but I have basically spliced together a walnut necktrough blank with a shorter cherry piece to cover the face portion of the neck blank, dissappearing under the fretboard. Neck is not scarfed, but has a thick faceplate, 3.5mm to strenghten the short fibers there. Fretboard is the heart of the canadian walnut, wings cherry. So this is where I'm at now:
  27. 3 points
    You’re not wrong Andy, a preliminary scratch finding stain seams to be the norm for me, intentional or not because I’m shut at finding scratches. It’s all stained anyway, good weather over the last couple of days meant I could get the top sealed too as I’m using cellulose sealer. We are due cold spell now so hopefully after then I’ll be able to get some clearcoat over it
  28. 3 points
    Probably got as far as I can go at this stage. Other than applying the finish to the neck maple (which will darken and amber it a touch) and fitting the trussrod cover, this is now pretty much just waiting for the hardware. The neck has been tidied up: And the Osmo has come up nicely. Just one more slurry and wipe with 400 grit and then two more very thin applications wiped on with kitchen roll has given just the level of sheen I was after: The pickup rings will be properly lined up when the final install is ready to be done but this sort of gives the vibe: It's not over until, etc, etc, but I'm really pleased with how this has turned out so far
  29. 3 points
    Do you remember this from a few years ago? : To recap - Tom does a lot of work with East African bands and has also got to know one of the traditional African drum makers quite well. At one visit, they kindly and unexpectedly presented him with a bass body, made from drum wood, to build a bass with. At less than an inch thick, wavy, indeterminate wood varying between balsa softness and Bakelite harness, making a bass was going to be a challenge! But it happened and he still plays it. Here he is playing at the Mayor of London show in Trafalgar Square: Well, Tom was thrilled, the band was thrilled, the African drum maker was thrilled. And at a recent revisit to The Gambia - - they presented him with another one
  30. 3 points
    Looking good. For a stained finish I usually apply a first stain just to find the scratches. Theoretically, you can see most of them just by wiping a damp cloth over the surface. But if you do there seems to be ALWAYS ones you miss that jump up and scream at you just as you apply the first 'proper' stain coat. So I kid the blighter into thinking it IS the first stain coat! These guitars think they're cleverer than us. Psychology...that's what you need. Psychology.
  31. 3 points
    So I finished up the other part of the tailpiece. Having now made the two parts I know that they are looking ok and I'll mock everything up again when I make the working templates out of thicker MDF. I'll probably remake them both for the actual guitar as there are a couple of errors. I put too small of a radius on the curve of the retaining bracket which means the harp is not moving freely enough when the two pieces are together and I had a few holes that wandered a bit from centre when they were drilled (that'll teach me for being lazy and not using a centre punch before drilling).
  32. 3 points
    Refined the inlay some more, it's more inline with a Cthulhu vs an octopus. Similar to the one in my avatar. I need to scale it down a little I think, but it's getting close. There are still some rough bits where I was connecting the center design with the extended tentacles. ignore it for now. This certainly isn't getting any easier to pull off LMAO. I'm trying not to think about that part too much. EDIT - even further tweaks, getting the tentacles to flow better
  33. 3 points
    It's been a while since I've posted because I've been occupied with other life stuff but I got a chance to get back into some guitar stuff and start making the tailpiece.
  34. 3 points
    Here some updates! I'm almost finishing it, Hope you guys like it.
  35. 3 points
    I've let it sit for a week to let the oil harden up a bit. A good going over with 4000 grit micro mesh, followed by a coat, and I think we are nearly there That's a fairly close match to the colour too, which is gorgeous
  36. 3 points
    I've done it both ways in other builds, Andrew. While it makes it more difficult to clean up the excess, for me it is easier to see how close to put the swifts to each other when the frets are already there. Swifts fly in a very distinctive way and you can see the pairs even in groups of twenty or so of them screaming round at breakneck speed. I like to try to capture that if I can. Well...you did ask
  37. 3 points
    Hope everyone is ok. My mum is feeling unwell so her and my dad have shut themselves away, I'm not feeling too great either (headachy, throaty, tired but fortunately no fever), but we've been told to work from home for the foreseeable anyway. Everyone in the UK with any flulike symptoms has been told to self-isolate for at least 14 days to ensure anyone else in the household hasn't got it to parse on, though I think I'm allowed to walk the dog if I keep my distance. They've also advised no non-essential travel so most of the bars, venues, clubs etc have now shut, I've got a YT video to edit, but I don't think I'll be making any sawdust for a little while with it being respiratory and all. Don't worry reading this is not going to give you an internet virus.
  38. 3 points
    Finally, let's go for Birdseye porn with this one, the fretboard will be roasted birdseye maple... I'm now ready to glue the top on the body... As I have 3 others projects at the same time, the update are slow...
  39. 3 points
    It is not necessary for a good neck joint. I could give you a bunch of voodoo and mojo....but the bottom line is it makes me feel good knowing that long tenon sandwiched between the body and top is making the neck and body connection rock ass solid. It is almost a neck through.... SR
  40. 3 points
    Time to make the neck pocket. I made it a curly hair too tight, so I made a shooting board out of sandpaper stuck to a plane and clamped to a piece of acrylic. I used that to gently narrow the tenon squarely. It worked. SR
  41. 3 points
    File this in the 'where have they been' folder based on Wes' 'Everyone around me is dying' thing... Around Christmas, I thought someone I worked with had given me pneumonia, I couldn't breathe right. Wellsir...long story short version, Feb. 4th, I went under the knife for quadruple bypass open heart surgery. Two more months, max, and I would have just fallen over dead one day. Everything has gone exceedingly well, I feel great now, surpassing all expectations. Already starting to cardio workout again, and I started lifting again until I got freaked on by one of the nurses. 'You DO know they just sawed your ribcage open like a damn chicken breast filet, RIGHT? Haha! Whatever...So I'm just lifting the raw weight bars now for the moment. Close call, but everyone tells me I'm going to feel like I'm 35 all over again pretty soon. Yeyah! Anyway, even if Drak died, what IS that exactly? Wouldn't that be just like going home basically? I always wondered why I never had a fear of death...
  42. 3 points
    This headstocklet needs a cover plate, so after rifling through the scraps bin I found an offcut from the body top. Always pays to keep even the smallest fragment of your fancy woods for builds like these. A quick trip to the bandsaw and a few passes under the drum sander yields a 2mm thin sliver of eucalyptus that can be overlaid onto the headstock of the neck: The tricky thing about working with such small pieces is devising a method to clamp it while it glues. There's a chunky bit of clear plexiglass acting as a clamping caul over the biggest flat area of the headplate, and under the rear two clamps I have a couple of brass PCB standoffs perched perilously on the edges adjacent to the nut slot. I guess if I were doing this on a production level I'd make up some kind of custom-shaped clamping caul out of HDPE that fits around the end of the fretboard: The finished article. Oh, and frets already in, sorry. I've decided to take the bull by the horns on this build and install stainless steel jumbos after swearing blind I'd never work with stainless again. Wasn't actually as bad as I remember it being the last time, so either I've remebered it wrong or I'm more tolerant of the experience. Zero fret yet to be installed: Side markers (yes, they are there. They're just a bit smaller than usual - 1.5mm diameter this time): First coats of oil. The redheart sapwood of the leatherwood is finally starting to stand out a bit better at the edges of the body:
  43. 3 points
    After some steam to get some cupping in the split area, I managed to get the split to close up to a point so I could glue it back up. Then I put it in the vac bag to flatten. The process did allow the center joint to relax and start to release. So it will need to be separated then re-glued. First I need to allow the moisture content to lower. This will take about a week. Then I will use a 1/16" endmill and cut the the center line. This will allow me to rejoin it before gluing it back to the body. At that point I will determine if a burst is needed or just move forward as planned. MK
  44. 3 points
    That sounds like a lot of work, but I've not heard of Jerry Rosa so I'll check him out. I left the phone on while I was doing a couple of jobs last night, so heres a quick vid on drilling for bridge studs
  45. 3 points
    Spent a couple of hours on the monkey build this evening. The goal was to get the bridge installed but that involved a couple of other jobs too, Started off by reaming out the tuner holes so I could test fit the sperzels and later check that the bridge is drilled accurately. Then I needed a nut to put my strings in if I was going to test the bridge... I've always used Graphtech and never bothered with cutting/slotting my own from scratch - the price of nut files seems hard to justify when a Graphtech nut is £10 and is almost perfect out of box every time. But Adrian wanted ivory coloured appointments (pickup rings, switch tip) and I have a load of bone nut blanks (one of the ebay sellers I buy fretboards from throws one in with every order) so I figured a bone nut would look good on this build. I got the Crimson nut file set and their string spacing ruler during their last sale and finally got round to using them tonight. Making the nut was quite enjoyable but man, it's was time consuming. Dusted off the disk/belt sander - first time I've used it in an age, but really glad I had it for this job. I rounded off all the exposed corners and stuck it in place with a drop of super glue. Then I marked the string locations with a pencil and the string spacing rule and made a light cut with the razor saw so I had a start. Then I got the bridge location marked out and a couple of 11mm holes done with the hand drill. I used a couple of squares to ensure I was drilling plum Bridge all good so I got a set of strings on, it's now officially a guitar Then I spent a good hour on filing the nut slots. On the slots where I had a file that was slightly bigger than the string gauge, I got perfect results. But files that were the same gauge as the string were a bit awkward, eg the 26 and 10 gauges - the string would bind in the slot and be really difficult to get all the way down or to pull back out again, fortunately I realised that before I went too deep on any of them. So I played around with rocking the file side to side to widen the slot slightly which work well. I think I've still got a bit too much height on the nut, the string slots are pretty good, but the overall height of the nut (making the slots deeper) was clearly contributing to the strings binding. So before I do the final assembly, I'll file a bit more off the top of the nut, it all needs a good sanding and polishing anway. I still need to do fret levelling, crowning polishing etc yet but I'll let it hang on the wall with strings on for a while, get it used to it's new shoes. That was an enjoyable evening of learning, all be it time consuming. I think I'll have to revisit the ziricote build at some point and make a bone nut for that one too.
  46. 3 points
  47. 3 points
    Got some heavy coats on it. Also got my first runs, very small and on the side, so no biggie. My first gnats too. I always push really hard and lay it on thick and way faster than Dan Erlewine will tell you but I’ve never had issues. One thing I do that helps the end result is a final coat with 50:50 or even less. The solvent just hammers the surface and lets it flow out really nicely.
  48. 3 points
    I kept going with the pick guards and beveled all the edges on both sets. I used my router table and just screwed the pick guards to a 1/4" mdf template and set my 45 degree chamfer bit to the correct height. I set it up with all white and will just pack the black when I ship. It's a pain to switch out the pick guard because the bridge sits on top of it but the two are exactly the same so it should not be an issue. So this is pretty much where I started with this thread. I packed it up and sent it off to the new owner on Thursday. He should have it by tomorrow and I am looking forward to his reaction. So that's it for this one. Thanks for watching. On to the next project! Cheers Peter.
  49. 2 points
    Paul Gilbert, OOTH, is looking quite sharp these days! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_HeVyc5-GY
  50. 2 points
    Treat an arm contour line as though it has as much bearing on the shape as the outline. For example, the curve aligning or complementing the lower curve visually. Especially if the contour has a sharp break angle. It can be made to work if you agree with the additional shape it adds. A lighter gradual contour can have less effect in this way, but then adds a taper to the side profile. Either can work, but I feel that this needs some sort of forearm relief if only for the comfort.
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