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  1. 4 likes
    Unfortunately I've not had much time to work on this over the last few days but have started installing things. After making sure the neck fits as intended!
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  3. 3 likes
    Not a typo - seems like I should have dichrocaster in quotations, but I put "build" in quotations because my Strat mod is not worthy of the title compared to the awesome real builds I've seen by most of you (still perusing through all your cool projects). I am truly impressed by what I have seen here, and blown away by the level of craftsmanship. Thats coming from a guy that majored in WW / Furniture Design at RIT back in 86 with furniture in FWW magazine's Design Book Six, so I know a thing or two about fine woodworking (just not luthiery yet). "build" also in lower case, because my goal is to cosmetically makeover some guitars in rather short time frames, so I am intentionally cutting some corners (literally, freehand with my tablesaw) for production effiicency, so some of the craftsmanship is a bit poor by my standards, as this is my first full guitar modification, so consider that issue when criticizing, but please PLEASE criticize - I need all the knowledge I can get. I have only been interested in guitars for less than two months when it hit me that these new color-changing dichroic laminates would look cool on guitars, coupled with the incredible timing in which you can now get Floyd Rose bridges in the new rainbow chrome PVD plating. So now to explain "Dichrocaster". "Dichro" is short for dichroic, which means di = two, and chro= color, a term / adjective for "color-changing" which is most commonly used as dichroic glass, Google dichroic glass and you will understand. Few are aware of the newer pigments now that are actually micro platelets of dichroic glass. These pigments are the same as used in the $5000.00 per gallon Chromalusion (DuPont) and Mystic (BASF) paints. What is super cool is I have recently found suppliers of raw borosilicate pigments with the same color shifting effects for a fraction of the said pre-mixed brands, and am using them in these strat mods (the "Dune" face acrylic). I am also using another laminate for inlays that utilizes dichroic films in the optical core, which complements the rainbow Floyd Rose and the Dune perfectly (not explaining that stuff in too much detail for fear that this post might be removed as a veiled ad attempt - this post is so I can gain knowledge and ideas from this community). So now details on this mod. Got a cheapo squire with sound body and neck, and took it to the dado blade to remove 5/16" from the face and bevel to be replaced with the 5/16" back coated "Dune" acrylic. Edges chipped pretty bad (didn't realize how thick the PE fill coat was), so next time I will pre-score the edge, but its gonna get body filler and urethane sealant anyway. I drilled the Floyd Rose stud holes first, then routed its mortice to a depth of 3/16" prior, then routed the 5/16" around it, Then re-inforced the short grain in front of the studs with oak pcs epoxied cross grain in the bridge pup cavity - will show pics if interested. I mounted the humbucker just for the photo below, but am curious from all of you why the screws were so long? I needed to cut nearly a half inch off them, and they still will be able to be adjusted plenty. The Dune acrylic face and the red inlay material all cut great with the laser, and I plan to carry the triangular "exhaust plume" deltas up through the neck in place of the pearl dots. Then will ebonize the rosewood. Planning to reshape the headstock and spray it with the same pigments as the body. I recently hired a young guitar tech to work for me in my other work, and we are doing this project together. He (Sean) has been super helpful and we are learning a ton from each other, but curious what kind of can of worms I am opening by posting this (referring to inevitable comments like "you just ruined the tone by routing off the face and gluing in acrylic" type of comments - which I would welcome anyway. My goal is not to create a great sounding guitar (will do my best in that arena), but to create an insane visual feast.
  4. 3 likes
    Hey PG friends! Sorry I've been so absent lately, school and work have been keeping me crazy busy. That coupled with a few tool-failure-induced guitar problems have conspired to make me feel less social than usual. I've got one build newly done and two more in the home stretch, so here's looking toward a better tomorrow! First up, my freshly finished Pioneer MS6. This is going to be auctioned off at an event for the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation's West Palm Beach chapter (@CFFPalmBeach on FB). I'm going to get some more pics and a demo video before giving it away. Specs: 25-26" scale Alder body Maple neck/fretboard Jescar 47095 stainless fretwire Hipshot staggered open-gear locking tuners Custom milled aluminum bridge (thanks @2.5itim!) w/Graphtech saddles DiMarzio Red Velvet neck, True Velvet T bridge pickups This guitar has an evil twin.... I'll start behaving properly and post more pics this week. Until next time, thanks for taking a look!
  5. 3 likes
    Small Update. The maker space has agreed to let me teach a computer building workshop in exchange for use of the space. Going tomorrow to check out the kits. Phad.
  6. 3 likes
    So this baritone is finished. I applied Hartwachsöl with a brush, wich left deep streaks. I sanded most of it down and applied next three light coats with a cloth. Should have used a cloth from the start. It takes a day for one light coat to dry in a warm room. That pine is still soft under that wax, so I made a few dings when installing hardware. Luckily they let me burnish them down so they are lost in other little imperfections. On those mahoganies on the neck the wax is awsome. I thought I am good at soldering electronics, but this one was hard. New japanese pot was randomly cutting the signal, it took time to find it is the new pot and not other reused components. I always loose my patience. But it is done now.
  7. 3 likes
    Pretty much just down to the boring little details and then it's all done. Not shown here, but after some quick soundchecks of the Irongear pickups I've since added a fixed treble cut to bring the highs a little more under control: Quickly fire up the CNC and run off a rear coverplate out of some matte black plastic: Shielding is achieved with some adhesive aluminium tape. A 50m roll costs about $20 and will last forever. Where the two strips of tape meet I've perforated them with the tip of an Xacto knife to ensure that both pieces will remain connected together: Perfect fit:
  8. 3 likes
    And the final finished shots (honest!)
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    Hi Yes - me again. And Pete again!! For those who haven't seen the other threads, Pete is our old-blokes-band's bassist and, for reasons that I don't fully understand, is my best customer. I can only assume that the low frequencies and our band's general bad playing has somehow shaken up his brain cells to the point that he can't differentiate between properly made instruments and my hobbyist efforts Hmmm.......or that he has realised how much cheaper my efforts are.....and that he can always get them fixed if they ever go wrong (which happily they never have yet)...or that maybe he's dating MrsAndyjr1515 while muggins is down in the cellar wading through sawdust.... Anyway, so far I have built him a Jack Bruce Warwick-style fretless bass, an SG-style 6-string electric and an EB3-style fretted bass. And now he wants me to build him a piccolo bass! So, first question to ask, 'What's a piccolo bass?' OK - there are multiple answers to that so, to cut to the chase, this is what I'm going to build him, whether it's what he's expecting or not: A guitar-sized bass, pitched at an octave higher than a normal bass, which makes it, essentially, a 4 string guitar To try to get a non-electric guitar tone: going for a single, mid-biased rails pickup in the neck position; multi-scale (26" at bass side and 25" at treble); flatwound strings Figured walnut top, with teardrop f hole and chamber; mahogany wings; maple and mahogany laminated through-neck; snakewood fretboard; 24 frets Here's broadly what it's going to look like (I'll actually reduce the angle at the nut and increase it at the multi-element bridge: Here's the top: ..and the main components with the neck splices cut, waiting gluing together: I'm looking forward to this one...probably in the same way as a small clueless child might look forward to scouts forest trip on the outskirts of Mordor.
  10. 2 likes
    resurrecting an old build thread. I need to start on some of my old projects I left hanging when I bailed from building a few years ago. new pics coming in next few days, wanted to bump this thread so I didnt have to go looking for it (last post in 2013 (yikes). Mostly sanding scratches and dings this picked up being in a garage for last 4 years
  11. 2 likes
    While waiting for the postman (to deliver the veneers for a LP-style guitar I'm customizing), I dared to do something I had in mind for a long time. Just tried to fill an inlay using the Stewmac "Super glue & soda trick". The problem is I had no soda so I've tried with some flour... Didn't expect too much from this experiment, but I have to say I'm quite happy with the result... it doesn't look like MOP, of course, but I like the vintage/grungy color, it fits very well with the design and what I had in mind. These are some pics:
  12. 2 likes
    I've decided to not to put binding on the top. With the internal routing done, it was ready for the top and sides to be glued on. First I stained the inside of the 'f'hole chamber, then glued the top, then the wings: Note that the wings are deeper than the through part of the neck. That's because I'm going to scoop the back to match the curve of a convex-curved carve to the top - hence no binding. This is where one of my favourite hand-tool acquisitions comes in - the wonderful Veritas pullshave: Then a round-over around the edges with an appropriate router bit and it's starting to look the part, albeit with a few lumps to smooth out before the finish sanding: Next job will be the smooth convex curve to the top. As always, thanks for looking and for your encouraging feedback
  13. 2 likes
    And now for something completely different Metallic blue with black spiderwebbing. It's not going to be as outlandish as the swirl was, but I'm happy enough with it. And more importantly, the paints are compatible with the clear.
  14. 2 likes
    Thanks Mike. I gotta admit it feels good to have another one of these going. SR
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    Progress has been pretty slow of late. One of the reasons being our latest aquisition For any VW buffs out there, it's a 1979 Devon camper, mostly original, including the 2.0l T4 engine. Anyway, enough derailing my own thread
  16. 2 likes
    Well, with the normal warning that these threads are always simply about how I personally go about things and never that this is the way you should go about things, I'm into totally new territory: multi-scale and hand-cut fret slots. First I got into some decent light...I thought I'd give daylight a try for old-times' sake. I clamped a ruler to the fretboard to the workbench, at the angle that the strings will run at and starting at the angled nut position: Then a double-check, triple-check, quadruple-check measure against the treble scale and a sharp tap with a hardened metal point: Then ditto for the bass string run. Then clamping with a squared piece of wood, that has been cut at a height to allow 3mm blade exposure, using the saw's blade clamp strip to prevent the blade cutting too deep: Then gentle sawing against the wood block until the slot was formed, then hard sawing to depth. Snakewood is VERY hard...this is my exercise for the week sorted! And, if I've got everything correct...this should be a 26" to 25" fanned set of slots!: Only time will tell... And I must be losing my touch...that felt relatively conventional
  17. 2 likes
    Building the Fauxeana has been so much fun that I decided "Why build one when you can have two at twice the price?" So, I present the beginnings of my Fendrish Limited Edition American Nonstandard Offset Telebastard 3-piece swamp ash body blank Roasted maple Warmoth Tele neck Single pickup: humbucker in the bridge Led Zeppelin IV album pickguard Olympic Girl (white) wudtone finish
  18. 2 likes
    I've got my money on knowing why it happened. Here's what I did. 1- Pulled it out of the oven... got really excited 2- Went straight to the sander to level the faces (more heat) 3- Went straight to the resaw and cut it down the center thus releasing the inner core to the cold in a rather quick and drastic fashion I'm sure I could avoid any and all non-permanent warping by simply adding some patience hahaha. Chris
  19. 2 likes
    I took a few more shots of the front in an attempt to get some in different lighting and thus less reflections that might be good enough for a GOTM entry. SR
  20. 2 likes
    I'm a little surprised that the saddle breakpoint on that bridge appears to be smack in the middle of the block. I'd double check the position of that line relative to the outline of the bridge you've drawn. Typically the high E string will intonate with the saddle nearly fully forward. On a freshy-placed bridge it's unusual for the highest strings to want to intonate by moving further forward beyond this. If anything the intonation point will likely be further away still. Every other string will then intonate even further back from the high-E by varying degrees. If that is the case then you can probably move the bridge (and subsequently the bridge pickup) further back another 0.5" or so. But check first.
  21. 2 likes
    A couple of update pics. Man, these kind of colors are really hard to photograph. The purple especially. I cant get a straight on shot of it.
  22. 2 likes
    As curtisa says, if you are still in the design stage, you can just change the placement of your pickups. If where they are is integral to the design you can move your bridge back and the neck / fretboard will need to come that way as well to maintain your scale length. And the gap will be closed. And to answer your second question, no it will not hurt a thing to leave everything just where it is. There is a ton of voodoo out there as to where the sweet spot for pickup placement is...where they are in relationship to the nodes of the vibrating strings, but voodoo is all it is. The nodes move every time you fret a string. SR
  23. 2 likes
    Third time's the charm. From this: To this:
  24. 2 likes
    Slotting begins, 25" scale for this one. Merbau fretboard has an interesting orangey-tan colour: In keeping with the budget-ness of this build I've taken the plunge and bought a bunch of Chinese truss rods off eBay. Now, before you stick the boot in and tell me that no good will come of cheaping out on the truss rod, I am stress-testing these before using them. I'm aware that I could spend $30+ for an Allied Lutherie rod and have the Rolls Royce standard in truss rods for this build, but even they recommend you stress test their rods before installing, and there are plenty of documented failures of the more expensive rods out there. The middle-range Allparts rods I used to use appear no different to the Chinese ones in construction and quality, and are likely also made in China with a western mark-up on price. Three full cranks in each direction to see if they'll hold - all good. That's far more tension than they'll ever see in service: The tricky bit with this kind of construction is making a neat access for the truss rod adjuster. With a bit of careful drilling, routing and measuring (not necessarily in that order) it's possible to get the adjuster nut to sit into the headstock hole like sticking your foot into a sock:
  25. 1 like
    you guys are lucky to be able to do it yourself- i would have been laid up in bed for 2 weeks if I tried to do something like that. I literally get crooked- my spine gets out of alignment- and then if I slip a disc and it hits the nerve- that is when it gets really fun. The pain isnt in my back- its in my legs-like being stabbed with lightning. Sneezing or coughing becomes a "hold on to something cause this is going to hurt like hell" moment. I actually popped a vein in my eye once trying to hold back a sneeze/cough. but I agree with you guys. Guess that is why I havent fixed the in-sink garbage disposal in our kitchen for 2 years now. part of me wants to do it myself and save the cash- part of me knows what will happen if I do- and the part that wants to do it myself is winning out and causing a delay in getting it fixed.
  26. 1 like
    you certainly have an eye for design.... each of your builds is... uniquely yours... any background with art school or design of some sort?
  27. 1 like
    Quite a dark blue front & back - should be coming soon! I cut them as neatly as I could, but there was a little bit of tearout even using the forstener bits. That's still on my todo list to tidy that up (plus you won't see it anyway (photo coming up...) Yes I'm still doing the course and will continue to do so when I've completed this build. The course is run by Colin Keefe, who used to work at Patrick Eggle. I still have so much to learn and it's such a good supportive "club" environment. Some things are easier to do in my garage on the workmate though Anyway, we have a minor update - the "first fix" of the internal plate. It would have looked a lot neater & less cramped if I could have made the blade switch work Next up is some more sanding of the top - I attacked it with a damp cloth & steam iron to remove a few battle scars it had picked up on the way to & fro. It raised the fibres quite well, so I might repeat it when I do the final pre-dye sanding. Then a final rub down on the back and I can get busy with the black grain filler. I'm getting excited now!
  28. 1 like
    First decide if you want your strings spaced evenly between their centers or to have even spaces between them. If you are spacing on three centers, just decide the amount of space you want from the outside strings to the fretboard edge, subtract that from your nut width and devide by 5. Even width gaps require a little more math. Add the string widths up and subtract the total from you nut length. Also subtract the amount you want on the edges of you fretboard. What remains is the amount of space left for your gaps, so devide that by 5. I like to make a spacer out of scrap at that width and use that as a fret file guide. SR
  29. 1 like
    Thanks again. Money is not really the driving force here. I have secured the use of the makerspace very close to my house, so most tools are available as well. I think it comes down to not having done something like this before. Most of my new endeavours do not usually require me to be so "handy" (Last year was whiskey, year before that was learning to smoke meat, making bread before that, etc..). I want to see if I will enjoy the process, I am not expecting to build the best guitar in the world from a kit. Just to get exposure. My wife has promised me and my son 1/4 of the garage for whatever we want. If I like this, I will turn it into a workshop, if not I may make a clay pizza oven instead. I do not want to waste this wife generosity Going tomorrow to look at the kits. If they are total trash I will pass and rethink. Phad
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    That's awesome! Congratulations. I recognize the shadow of your head from your avatar. SR
  32. 1 like
    Haha! Guilty as charged (I do try to make a habit of backing the blade off) Come to think of it, I had better go make sure the planes are on the till/shelf ... we've had a couple minor earthquakes this past week, and my waxed tools have a habit of wandering around a bit.
  33. 1 like
    Lovely work with the boards, but sorry I have to mention - that's the second photo you've posted of a plane resting blade side down. I always lay mine on the side when not in use, to avoid damage
  34. 1 like
    Thank you kindly, gentlemen. I'm rather pleased with it myself. SR
  35. 1 like
    Cheers Scott. I raise this beer in yours (and your guitar's) honour. Good work.
  36. 1 like
    Its been awhile. Here's some pics of that hickory guitar and where I'm at now!
  37. 1 like
    I've resawn a figured top by hand once. I bought a bandsaw shortly afterwards.
  38. 1 like
    Pretty much every aspect of that guitar makes me run out of superlatives, @ScottR! Wonderful build. Can't wait for the next one
  39. 1 like
    Glue the top to create your bookmatch, check gluing surfaces for flatness when dry and correct if necessary, then glue top to body. It'll be easier than trying to juggle clamping everything in multiple directions all in one hit. It will be simpler to clamp the fret board to the neck while it's all square and flat. Only reason I can see you'd want to attach the fretboard after the neck has been shaped is if you were re-attaching a fret board to an existing neck, and you simply had no other choice.
  40. 1 like
    Agreed. I find that most Finns can speak English better than they think they can. The problem is that it is usually taught as a book language rather than conversational language, so it isn't taught through use. More in theory. That and Finns feel embarrassed because this makes them feel they might not be able to use the language outside of the classroom. In reality, get a beer or five on the table and you find that many Finns speak English better than some English-speakers.
  41. 1 like
    Thanks, Scott - very much appreciated The side dots are the larger black-surrounded luminlay glow in the dark ones and then there are the small ones set into the fretboard over the body length. I pass this across on Friday, assuming the new owner doesn't have an excitement-induced heart attack first
  42. 1 like
    Very nice Andy, it looks like she's all dressed up for a formal. I never noticed the big ol' two color side markers before. I don't often say this about side markers, but they add an additional touch of class. The new owner should be ecstatic. SR
  43. 1 like
    I'm a bit behind in my updates! With a flash of the magic wand, it's finished, and today went back to its owner 1lb 10oz lighter than it started...
  44. 1 like
    Have you sent Todd a private message?
  45. 1 like
    Progress has been slow, but its finally warming up here. I was able to get this sealed and the color sprayed, plus black burst. I think i finally found a sealer that works.
  46. 1 like
    That's coming along nicely in spite of the minimal toolset! I hope that the joins will be strong enough.
  47. 1 like
    Whatever the case, I cannot see that you've grounded your pickups or your bridge in the photos. The diagram is not clear how the volume pot is grounded, but it must be otherwise it simply will not work. The rest of the grounding scheme is shown on page 5, however as your instrument does not have this same grounding scheme it cannot be used as a direct substitute. If the pickups are not grounded the guitar will make very little sound. If the bridge is not grounded you will get lots of buzz until you touch a metallic part is the guitar that is already grounded. The bottom line is that it would seem that the bridge and pickups are currently ungrounded. The easy fix is to connect them to the nearest grounded point, hence my suggestion of the rear of the volume pot. There are other points on your guitar you could use equally well - the rear of the tone pot, the frame lug on the big 3-way switch, the ground lug on the output jack.
  48. 1 like
    No glue. If anything just a few dabs of bathroom silicone in the channel to prevent the possibility of the rod rattling. Mind you don't get any silicone on the gluing surfaces where the fretboard attaches to though.
  49. 1 like
    A few more bits & bobs ticked off the list... I recessed the jack plate. First I screwed it in place then used a sharp knife to cut around it to a depth of about 2mm. Then used my Dremel + StewMac router base to create the rebate. A tiny bit of end grain tearout, which is pretty much inevitable - but not bad at all Then on to the control mounting holes. I had to recess them slightly I seem to have managed to catch hardly any highlights - that's a chrome plate The holes are not spaced equally deliberately. There are asymmetric knobs in progress I also got my back plate back. My instructor ran it through his sander thicknesser for me. It's a shame I cocked up the routing on the body recess, as otherwise it would have fitted beautifully. So anyway, I've got to make a new template next, get the recess routed & bound, magnets drilled & fitted - and that will be the body about complete & ready for starting to finish. Unfortunately the body has picked up a few scuffs & dints which will need attention, but it's hardly surprising when I'm carrying it back & forth to class every week. I've officially got that "final approach" feeling
  50. 1 like
    Bring that guard down on that bandsaw!