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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/10/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    It turns out that I enjoyed that so much I just let it drag on, and then it got cold and rainy and I decided to save the neck set for next weekend. I'm pretty much building this one because I like to and I can....and for no other reason, so why not? This osage orange's grain patterns look so cool from the quatersawn and end grain view. And it feels silky to the touch. I think I may have found a new favorite neck material. SR
  2. 4 points
    Gotta love love long weekends! I even got time to start carving the neck join. SR
  3. 4 points
    Neck carving too. SR
  4. 4 points
    I present this "Ferrari" Flying-v custom guitar inspired in the guitars that usually plays Rudolph Schenker from Scorpions, one of my favourite guitar players and bands. This guitar is so special for me not only because I love V's and explorers, but for the difficulty of the finish due to the two cameras in the wings of the guitar. She has been a really challenge for me. Hope you like! You can find more pics of the complete evolution of this and other guitars in the following link: Specs: Body: Bubinga central block&Spanish cedar wings&AAAA maple top Neck: European maple Fingerboard: Ebony Fingerboard radius: 12” Frets: Wide high Scale: 24.75” Number of frets: 22 Nut: TUSQ Inlays: Acrylic “ROCK YOUR LIFE” Joint type:Glued in Hardware: Bridge: Tone pros Tune O’matic Tuner machines: Gibson 3+3 Pick guard: Aluminum Electronics Neck pick up: N/A Bridge pick up: Tokaa handmade in Spain Controls: 1 x volume, 1 x tone Finish: Hot Rod Red polyurethane I add a vídeo that a Scorpions cover band that tested the guitar sent to me, cause I think is interesting in order to hear the guitar. If is not allowed to put this video tell me and I automatically delete it! Scorpionscar
  5. 3 points
    Hi, I'm Ash, a hobby builder from Oxfordshire, UK. I've been a lurker for a little while but posted detail of previous builds on the Crimson Guitar forum. But I thought I'd start posting here I've been woodworking since Feb this year after getting hooked on videos by Ben Crowe and Paul Sellers. Here are a couple of my previous builds: #2 - 30 fret PRS style build - 2 piece khaya mahogany body, 1 piece neck of the same, spalted flame maple top, and headstock, gabon ebony fretboard with flamed maple binding and bar inlays, hardware is all gotoh with a PRS HFS pickup and PRS volume and coiltap. Stained with artist oil paints and finished with Crimson guitars finishing oil. #4 - my first commision - 25" scale LP type guitar made from wenge body and neck with a flamed sycamore top, macasar ebony fretboard with flamed maple binding and headstock. The entire upper bout round to behind bridge on this one is hollow but it still weighs in at a hefty 9lb once hardware was in. Again, PRS electronics with Holcomb alpha omega pups, schaller signum bridge and sperzel tuners. I really like the feel of a wenge neck but I wouldnt hurry to use it again for body wood. Again, oil finish but this time I used a water based dye to try and create a charcoal effect. This top had a knot in it which was a real PITA to carve, I flooded it with superglue before carving then resign afterwards, in hindsight, I should have flood the top with resign while it was still a blank. #5 - Another commission - currently I'm on the finishing process. Another PRS style build, a bit of a mish-mash between a custom 24 and a mccarty style guitar as it's 24 frets and 25" scale but with a tail piece. The player has several les pauls so I tried to make it a bit more gibson with 12" radius and a slightly thicker body and deeper carve in the top. For this one, I started with a 1 piece khaya mahogany body and a 2.5m plank of flamed maple. I used the plank to make up the top and laminated strips of it with some offcuts from #2 to make a laminated neck, in fact I used the same plank to make all of the maple on this guitar, including control cover and inlays This was my first serious attempt at cutting fretboard inlays, using some les paul plans and hand cutting them all, about 20 hours in total to get them cut and inlayed.
  6. 3 points
    True true. The people that keep chipping away get more done than those such as myself who plan endlessly, then wonder where the time is coming from, or where it has gone!
  7. 3 points
    And headstock faceplate is done.
  8. 3 points
    Got a few done over the past few weeks. Happy thanksgiving!
  9. 2 points
    I have personally traveled on boat along the amazon river, experiencing the astonishing beauty of it. Also, I experienced firsthand how the rain forest is treated ever so brutally. And it is not just one persons observation. Around 80% of all mahogany from for instance Honduras and Peru are expected to being logged illegally, according to various sources. Rosewood is protected for really good reasons. Just google for yourself. I do not want to contribute to that. This fact made my planned purchase of a new guitar a bit harder. A guitar without any endangered wood basically limits me too a Fender and some copycats of it. And that Fender-ish guitar should rather have humbuckers, large jumbofrets and a dark fretboard, not being rosewood or any other non-sustainable wood. That basically limited me to building my own guitar. I grew up on a farm in Sweden and we have lots of high quality wood there growing as a weed basically. My idea is to eventually use ash, that should be well suited for a neck. We made a shaft for a sledgehammer for it once, and it did not budge for anything. Using thermal treatment, as the vikings did in this land 1000 years ago, it can be made darker and even harder if desirable. But, there was a long time ago I did any hands-on wood work. So i thought, maybe I should warm up with some low-quality kit first on my journey towards a true self built guitar made out of sustainable wood. Starting point and goal Said and done, today the Thomann Harley Benton DC guitar kit arrived together with some tools and hardware upgrades. Some specs Thomann Harley Benton DC guitar kit Seymor Duncan Alnico ii Pro pickups. Mostly because all people on the internet seem to get a Slashy-ish tone with them that is just amaaaaazing. From what I can hear, the attack is really great on them. Another idea is that they might balance the probably slightly brighter softwood used for the guitar. Audio taper pots that are supposed to be from CTC (says Allparts on the package though).. I saw some Youtube video where the CTC pots performed great regarding characteristics.. Split-coils. I have played some guitars that do split coil really well, so I thought, why not try tone knobs with a switch. Stainless steel jumbo frets. It sickens me when frets wear and vibrato and bending starts to feel awkward. Maybe these stainless frets are worth the hassle the internet is talking about. Cherry dye/stain over charring. Going to give it a shot. I did some prototyping on a piece of pine you can see in the picture. My goal is to make this into real, badass, screaming, highly playable premium guitar. The reason for the cheap kit is because I want to experiment and learn. Funny thing, the pickups cost more than all other things so far together. I think I will land on around 500 euro for everything including paint, to pickups to pick wearing for this guitar. We have a gig in three weeks and I hope to be rehearsing with this guitar well before then. Harley Benton DC guitar kit The DC kit as a neck made of all maple and a dark fretboard. Thomann states that it is roseacer, which is supposed to be thermally treated maple. The only thing I can say so far is that it seems real hard, which is good. It might be laquered, and I would like the surface to be a bit more roughened. It is not clear what the body is made of, but it is light and soft. When calling Thomann, they did not know. I would be very surprised if it is some expensive, threatened wood. The fretboard and the fretwork is the worst I have ever seen otherwise on a guitar or any other instrument, literally. The neck is twisted so badly that I am considering using it as an airplane propeller. Frets are popping up everywhere, and feel like stroking a rasp when grasping the sides of the neck. When trying out the fret rocker, it popped up and down like a horseback when storming over the prairies. Silverlining though, the fretboard is compound radius. My radius gauges arrived today and they concur with my ocular observation: the neck is around 14" by the last frets and 12". If it weren't for the custom-screw shaped neck and the razor-edged-popping-up frets I would have thought I gotten my hand on something real fancy. Then, is see that the neck joint slot is tilted a lot so the neck is inclined forwards. Ughhh. This is not a beginners guitar, it is a wannabe-luthier (like me) kit. Because I don't think a real luthier would or should waste time on it, and a beginner would waste their time on a guitar that is hardly not playable, eventually giving up I think. However, for the price I got a bridge, knobs tuning screws and what not for a lower price then if I had bought it all separately. Probably I will use the pickups for some random fun build later. And, I was hoping for a challenge so I, the wannabe-luthier, feel good about the starting point anyway.I am really happy about the dark but non-rosewood freboard too so far. But is has lower quality then my expectations even, and I feel bad for anybody picking up this guitar thinking it should be decent as is. Next step Fortunately, I am not embarking empty handed on this grand voyage. Just because I wanted to learn how to do neck shaping I started collecting tools this week (yes, I am a newb). In the picture you can see some aluminium beams that I picked up behind my fathers barn, that underwent some grinding and polishing. These are going to get some sand papers on them tomorrow and helping me clean up some of the described mess. Furthermore, I got a Hosco 10"/12" fret radius gridning beam. Also, I built my own 28 degree angle fret file holder and bought a kit of jumbo fret wire, both stainless and nickel. Cherry stain and varnish is already purchased, now off to the hardware store tomorrow to get the rest and then start the grinding. Over and out.
  10. 2 points
    There are two types of people. Well, maybe more, but two types I'll describe here. One type (like me) says, "I only have two hours to work on the guitar this week, I better rush everything." The other type (like Norris) says, "I only have two hours to work on the guitar this week, I'm going to drill two holes as perfectly as I can." I need to be more like Norris.
  11. 2 points
    Well at least it might give inspiration to the casual lurker who thinks they haven't got time to build a guitar. You can put whatever time you can spare into it. Just keep chipping away. Once I've finished rebuilding the engine I'll hopefully be able to speed things up a bit. Gigging at the weekend regularly doesn't help with either Thanks for the encouragement folks
  12. 2 points
    So decided to go another direction with the color. Made lots and lots of samples and I ended up going with blue. I in turn also decided to bind the headstock plate and make pickup ring covers out of some extra mahogany I had. Was fairly successful but one of my holes was a little to close to the edge so i have to make a new one. I'm also up to knob design 4 now. Still haven't chosen one I've liked. I know I want it to match the guitar in either the mahogany or the gold. Not sure yet. lol, just noticed my pics are going through all the seasons. Well, this one includes a fair amount of dog hair too!
  13. 2 points
    Progress is progress. @Prostheta would be proud of the painstaking care you are displaying with this build. SR
  14. 2 points
    Yeah Scott it’s definitely different, it’s supposed to be super comfy and help with hand ache, we will see how it goes. As for the black limba s22 I guess it’s gone on to its new home lol, I gave it to my photographer for pictures and he said he liked it so much I’m not getting it back so he bought it lol. I’m really gonna miss that one!
  15. 2 points
    The workshop has been closed for a couple of weeks for repairs to the extraction system. We were back last night so I put an initial rough radius on the board. I have an inlay to do at the 12th fret, so this will do for now. A straight edge, flat caul with 80 grit stuck on with CA, and a radius gauge (old skool again)... I also started tidying and trimming the shoulders of the headstock on the spindle sander
  16. 2 points
    The Blue Lagoonitar . . . despite it's odd appearance (I enjoy building odd instruments) this critter plays. Here's a video. The Blue Lagoonitar Video What we have here is a, 4-string, tenor, rectangular, resonator guitar featuring a cone cover that is in fact the mutilated hubcap of a 1961 Ford Falcon. It's painted with Rustoleum's finest "Lagoon Blue" gloss enamel, and the body is from whatever bits and pieces I found lying around the shop. If memory serves (and increasingly it doesn't) the instrument is mostly oak and poplar, The technical aspects of this blue reso are similar to most other such guitars, with the obvious exceptions being that this one is Rustoleum blue, rectangular, and has the aforementioned mutilated hubcap (not to mention a hand hammered tailpiece carefully crafted from 24-gauge sheet metal). Here are the deets: Scale: 25" scale • 15 frets to the body Body Size: 12" (and change) wide, 19" (and a smidge) long, 4" (and a drop) deep. Total Instrument Length: 42" (give or take) Sound Thingies: 9" resonator biscuit cone (Stew Mac house brand . . . no gravy with these biscuits . . . sorry) Cone Cover: 1961 Falcon (artistically mutilated with my $9, Harbor Freight angle grinder) Amplification: Internal Piezo Pickup with volume control (Not to be confused with a pizza pickup, which is what Papa John's offered before said Papa got himself banished. The piezo is encased in rubber cement and recessed in the the guitar's center stabilizer. Very little handling noise) Neck: Mostly oak . . . hand carved and filed to fit my hand (mostly because I didn't have your hand size). Steel reinforced ala the old Stellas. String Height at Zero Fret: 2.5 mm (or thereabouts) String Height at 12: 5mm (or so) Neck width at zero fret: 1.25" (close enough) Neck Width at body: 1.5" (or damned close to it) Weight: Roughly 1/6th that of my dog (about 7.5 lbs)
  17. 2 points
    The Root Beer Float OK, its a stupid name, but I dont have a better one yet and my band mate threw that name out as soon as I brought it to rehearsal 2 weeks ago. The colors do have that vibe, especially in lower light settings. In brighter light (like most of these pix) its more orange looking Model: 22 Magnum Scale length: 25" Radius: 12" Construction: neck-through-body, 3-piece laminate neck, carbon fiber reinforcement Body and neck: Bolivian mahogany (Swietenia macrophylla) Top and matching headstock: book-matched, quilted big leaf maple Binding: natural (faux binding) Fretboard: Brazilian Rosewood Truss rod cover: ebony with MOP inlay logo Inlays: mother-of-pearl and abalone Frets: medium jumbo stainless steel Nut: unbleached bone Pickups: Seymour Duncan JB bridge and 59 neck Tuners: Schaller locking 3x3 Bridge and tailpiece: Tonepros Control cavity cover: Indian Rosewood with magnetic fasteners Finish: Nitrocellulose lacquer Guts: CTS 500k pots and Sprague "orange drop" .047 cap HERE is the build thread
  18. 2 points
    that neck is pretty sick dude.
  19. 1 point
    I think I'm going to stabilize this piece with some colored epoxy. I've as lways wanted to try that, and it's the right size for what I want IF I think it will work after it's done. I know guitar builds belong elsewhere, but right now this is just about random thoughts and potential wood. Once I proceed I'll take proper pics, but as slowly as I work it's better to just meander along and make a thread once finished. I hate leaving unfinished threads and it happens way too often.
  20. 1 point
    I don’t think I’ve posted on this one yet so here is where I’m at on it, sapele body that I made up last year, maple neck, bocote fretboard, 25.5” scale 6 string. I finished the body last year and it’s just been sitting around so I made up a neck, had the fretboard machined, glued up the fretboard and started carving the neck. This is definitely the thinnest I’ve gone with neck thickness, I had a little mishap with the router but was able to save it. The fretboard/neck thickness is at .720 which puts it just a hair under Ibanez s necks, which is what I grew up playing so I’m alright with it. But anyways here’s a couple pics.
  21. 1 point
    Having worked with my share of bubinga I can tell you the giveaway is that bubinga is both dense and filled with mahogany-esque pores. Look for the pores.
  22. 1 point
    Routed pickup pockets and the tele contol cover and jack socket. And started the carve. Then cleaned it up a bit. SR
  23. 1 point
    Pickguard templates made and pickguard made. Neck has been fit, and time for final neck shaping which everyone knows IS THE BEST PART. More importantly, with the neck installed, I can finally sit down and give it “the lap test” to see how it feels. The X-factor of it, the tangible-intangible. It feels awesome. Balance without hardware is great, body shaping fits right as you lean into it, the whole thing feels “right”. Obligitory rough placed hardware to see it in it’s more final form. I was excited before, but now I’m vibrating.
  24. 1 point
    That is ridiculous, @ScottR Just stop it! (weeps in my pile of imperfect shavings)
  25. 1 point
    You are doing a really nice job on this, are you sure it is only your second build? It's got some aggressive design features too. Very impressive stuff! SR
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