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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    I ordered another can of blush eraser and a can of retarder....and the weather cooperated enough finally that I didn't need them. I got my clear all shot. SR
  2. 4 points
    hey Guys, So here's the next update. Nothing special, just the mold ready to be taken off the guitar. Here you can see the mold taken off the guitar. The black stuff is warm wax. Tadaaa, this is the wax copy wich will be casted in bronze. The next step is to put wax gating onto it so we can pour bronze into it. I can't wait to see this in bronze.
  3. 3 points
    So my body laminates are all finished. I took the worst of the high spots off with my No4 before running it through the thicknesser so that it didn't end up making the veneers off square - I doubt it would have anyway. I had 99% success in orientating the grain on my laminates, you can see that dark streak on one of the pieces where I got a bit of tear out. I thought about flipping the wings so the tearout is under the top, but I prefer the figure this way round and the tearout is so shallow that it will likely disappear during sanding. ] I've routed the top to the template too, very risky around the neck pocket but it was ok when I took it slow. And with a bit of fettling around the fretboard, it fits like a bought one While I'm busy procrastinating over this inlay, I need to think about logistics; where is the jack going to go, will I be able to git a drill in with the wings on or should I do it before glue up. Do I ned weigh relief, given how awkward the shape is to weigh, I'm going to wait all of the pieces + the box of hardware to get an idea of final weight.
  4. 3 points
    After five days of hanging I gently started the leveling process. I like to do this fairly early in the curing stage. Breaking the surface of the nitro helps it outgas, and removing some of the thickness leaves less to need to cure. Both should help it cure sooner. I'm not as concerned with shrinkage on this build, since I have that nice layer of polyester( actually might be polystyrene) sealing the pores. SR
  5. 3 points
    Cut the body model and adjusted the size a little bigger to compensate the back side. Added about 1/2" to the body scale. Its surprising how much of a difference t makes. I'm going to do some more inlays with this one. Inlays are something I'm a lot more comfortable with and I'm excited about putting some color to accent it. Here's my design. Its going to a matte black so I'm going to run with the red and gold inlays. I'll add some fret markers on the boarder of the fretboard if it doesnt overcrowd the effect. Haven't decided yet.
  6. 3 points
    I cleaned up the routing with my dremel tool and layed in the veener. I've not done that before and it was fun. I think it came out awesome and exactly what I was looking for.
  7. 2 points
    Indeed. I'm glad to be back. I let life and other projects interfere... it's time to get back at er. I know right. these kid's better love me when I'm done! LOL
  8. 2 points
    I suspected that yours was the earliest mention of that type of jig on the net... I have seen some very old threads with it pictured. I try to give credit where due as I recognize how much I've learned thanks to contributions like yours and others here and in other forums. "standing on the shoulders of giants"!
  9. 2 points
    I saw that when I was visiting your thread today. This jig has been on the " net" for about 20 years and people don't usually credit me when they build it or modify it, so I appreciate it when it happens. I'm a member of a lot of forums, but mostly hang out in one spot.
  10. 2 points
    Thanks for crediting my router jig design in your design.
  11. 2 points
    Hi All Just spotted this. I'm tied up just at the moment but first thing I'll track down the thread. Basically yes - I use PVA woodglue and apply it in the same way that I apply veneer. I give the binding a generous coat of glue, and the channel a generous coat also. I then let both dry. I then place the binding in position and apply a hot iron at one end over an inch or two which melts and merges the glue. Then I hold it put in place with a cloth or glove for a couple of minutes for the merged glue to solidify, then move onto the next couple of inches. It's a repeatable process so if I realise there's a gap, I just go over that bit again, remelt, ease it into position and hold until it cools enough to grab. I found it much, much more successful than the normal glue and glass-reinforced sticky tape and bicycle inner tube wrapped round that always left me with gaps to fill. I'll find some photos in the morning.
  12. 2 points
    So I went with the crazy stripy option, mainly because I had a shedload of 1" walnut leftover. Laminations in progress but you get the jist! it's a slow process because I'm only glueing up one at a time, leaving it clamped for an hour before glueing the next one in, being careful to get consistent grain direction. A.) because I want it to look good B.) Because I want to skim over both the wings in the thickness planer once I'm done glueing. At this point I'm in a bit of a predicament, Do I rough cut the shape before glueing the wings on or not? Roughing out the shape will be difficult once the wings are attached to the neck, especially around the end of the fretboard. But roughing out the shape will make clamping the wings on particularly difficult I've been working on my tester with some success. Using a heavy coat of cellulose sealer brushed over the stain, sanded back with 320, then a few coats of minwax wipe-on poly, first 2 coats I scuff-sanded back with 600, then 3rd coat I scuffed with 1200 before wiping on and wiping off a final coat. Then buffed for a few minutes with a rag and some t-cut I'm really happy with how the tester has come out and reckon I should be able to get much better results if I apply more coats, thinned down. Finally, some delusions of grandeur. This is what I'm attempting for the inlay; the brief was a skull and/or a fist. So I'm doing a hand holding a skull growing out of a tree. I'm a but further along with the pieces than pictured, I've got about 60% of the tree cut out into bitesize chunks. I'm using white mop for the skull and walnut for the branches/hand. The walnut is incredibly brittle at inlay thickness (2mm) so I'm cutting out the pieces for each fret to prevent breaks (although there have been many) and I figured would be easier to inlay smaller pieces too. This isn't a done deal, I might decide that I've bitten off more than I can chew yet, but will make that call between finishing cutting out the branches and starting to cut the MOP. Wish me luck.
  13. 2 points
    I read your tutorial before doing my tester (Can't work out how to imbed a video so here's a terrible gif ), it was very useful and I'm planning to do this finishing technique on my ziricote guitar and the flying V when it gets there. Kudos!
  14. 2 points
    got my neck paddle routered down... routed my wire channels, got my bolt neck pocket done...
  15. 2 points
    Have now routed pick up and neck pocket. Still a lot to do.
  16. 2 points
    That gives a whole 'nother meaning to "flamed top". SR
  17. 2 points
    And she's done! Well she still needs a bit more setup work but I couldn't help but play for a while. Wiring is pretty simple and went off without any real issues and I'm really happy with how the coil split works and sounds, it's my first time trying one of those. Might have to get some better quality photos later, just have some quick phone shots for now as I want to get back to playing this thing! Though I suck at bass...
  18. 2 points
    thanks for sharing the tool tip Rad- one day I will get there with PUs. Those bass PUs are looking pretty bad arse. on a side note- you know that roasted ash and GOLD hardware go together right? (where is that rim shot emoji when you need it)
  19. 2 points
    The Cutlass (AKA Skelecaster) All wenge body and neck, with maple veneer accents in the neck. Flame maple top and rosewood fret board. 25.5 scale Luminlay side dots Grain matched cavity covers Maple side block inlays Bare knuckle blackguard 55 stagger pickups Chambered body with "skull" F-hole Evertune bridge, hipshot open back locking tuners I tried to enter last months GoTM but I waited too long to post it (Sorry admins!) so here we are trying again. I've always wanted to build a tele, but never liked the idea of a standard looking one. For this design I tried to think of some things that I have not seen before, yet keep all the basic themes of what makes a tele a tele. The one integral part of a tele that I omitted would be the bolt on construction. I really like the heel access on a set neck/neck thru and decided to try that out with this guitar and see how much of a difference in tone it would make. To me, it still spanks like a tele should spank and twangs like a tele should twang. Between the name, the shape, and the skull F hole I guess you could say this one was fairly pirate inspired. Yarr!!! Nothing says pirate like a... country guitar? I've also attached a video of a quick improvisation for you to judge if it sounds like a tele! Thanks!
  20. 1 point
    and..... the moment I've all been waiting for: radius... a lot more physical work than I had anticipated as going from cavity to wood you really have to be careful it doesn't grab... but other than that it went pretty smooth.
  21. 1 point
    Bending that veneer around the headstock is awesome, this has got me thinking that I need to attempt an all rosewood guitar like the ziricote build, until I saw the price of Indian rosewood body and neck blanks
  22. 1 point
    thank you very much sir. I went looking for that thread last night and found some finished shots but this is much better. you da man. looks like your neck stock may have been thicker. I started out with 15/16 and now have exactly 3/4 under the fb. Looks like I still need to take it down a bit. thanks again for digging that out!
  23. 1 point
    I *hate* the large opaque pickguard on every flying V that has one - so much surface area, so much potential for something interesting, and then so much of it winds up just being covered up. That being said, I'm happy you seem to have found a remedy for this "problem."
  24. 1 point
    We needed more weapons in the metal armory. This is so killer. The inlays are ridiculously cool.
  25. 1 point
    The Skelecaster All wenge body and neck, with maple veneer accents in the neck. Flame maple top and rosewood fretboard. 25.5 scale Bareknuckle blackgaurd 55 stagger pickups Chambered body with "skull" F-hole Evertune bridge, hipshot open back locking tuners I've always wanted to build a tele, but never liked the idea of a standard looking one. For this design I tried to think of some things that i have not seen before, yet keep all the basic themes of what makes a tele a tele. The one integral part of a tele that I omitted would be the bolt on construction. I really like the heel access on a set neck/neck thru and decided to try that out with this guitar and see how much of a difference in tone it would make. To me, it still spanks like a tele should spank and twangs like a tele should twang. Thanks!
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