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  1. 7 points
    I decided that it might be a long time before I got another opportunity to make a headstock as unique as this one, so I think I'll forego the cap.....unless I decide it just doesn't work after the guitar has been assembled, at which point I shall likely curse and thrash about as I add a cap to a fully shaped headstock, which will be entirely more difficult. towards that end I removed the ledge I had created for the nut and will cut a new one after the fretboard has been located. I added a few coats of Tru-oil to the handle. It darkened the ziricote a bit, but should protect it from whatever mess my brother in law may subject it to. You may have noticed that I also have cut the top. I am itching to cut the fretboard, but am waiting for some new bandsaw blades that should have arrived but appear to be caught up in the holiday package delivery log jam.I had some bridge height corrections to make on the mandolin because I didn't take into account how much thickness I would lose while flattening the gluing surfaces of the top and body. While I'm waiting for new bandsaw blades I am preparing those surfaces prior to determining my neck angle and tenon depth. Cheers! SR
  2. 5 points
    I started another project a few weeks back, and for the first time I am reprising one of my original designs; from the #4 has an F-hole build. That was my first GOTM winner, and the only one I have that my wife says I cannot get rid of. I'm sure there will be some modifications, but we'll start with the same pattern and see where it goes. This one will have a sapele body, a zebra wood top, and a neck that's zebra wood, with a Katalox center spine. Really hard, stiff stuff that is, I think it is around 3660 on the janka scale. This build is likely to have several interruptions along the way, but it will keep me amused between interruptions. I skipped the prep and body glue up shots and went straight to the neck sandwich glue up. I decided to cut a shelf for the nut below the level of the fretboard. This will add a Fender like drop off plus a headstock angle which should give plenty of breakover angle for the strings. I like the pattern and colors after cutting the headstock angle. It's almost too bad there will be a headstock cap of Katalox to cover that up. Body cut out....but not quite ready to play yet. SR
  3. 4 points
    As you will note as you read the following I have been around the block and am no spring chicken. For the past 20 years my interest has been vintage watches my lifelong interest going way back to the 1960s has always been music and guitars. I hope you find this post of interest............................. It was 1963, I was into my second year as a teenager and a huge fan of the The Shadows. I wanted to learn to play the guitar just like Hank and of course the guitar had to be a Fender Stratocaster. Now in 1963 a Strat was both a very rare and very expensive guitar in the UK and way out of my league but I had a plan. I had access to a fully equipped woodworking shop at my school and a very enlightened and supportive wood working teacher. A set of plans were obtained from Practical Woodworking magazine or similar and I set about buying the wood and the hardware. The wood came from a local wood yard - ordered on the 23 March 1963. The neck was a solid length of 3" x 1.5" mahogany and the body was a hardwood called Obeche joined to the through neck top and bottom with plywood front and back to cover the joins. I cannot remember the fingerboard wood. The hardware also came from a local shop - Ron's Music Shop. In 1963 there were no specialty guitar magazines, obviously no Google and limited supplies of hardware for solid electric guitars hence the unlikely mix I ended up with. I just had to buy what they had. The tailpiece, pickups, bridge, machine heads, strap buttons and brass frets (which came on a roll and needed cutting to each individual length) were certainly not designed to all go on the same guitar. The string nut at the headstock was hand cut from a piece of bakelite. Having collected the parts the next stage was to shape the body and headstock. The plans were for a fairly ordinary body and headstock and I wanted the Strat shapes. It was not possible to go and see one to take measurements or draw round the shapes so I traced round Hank's guitar on the front cover of a Shadows 45rpm EP and scaled it up. As can be seen from the finished guitar a little was lost in the the translation with this exercise. Probably just as well I was unable to see an actual Strat. I could have managed the through body stringing OK but the contoured body would have been a major problem. The body is in fact a slab construction as seen on the Telecaster. Many, many, many hours were spent both at school and at home shaping the body, neck and headstock and this was all done by hand. In fact not a single power tool was used to make the guitar. Eventually I was able to join all the parts together with a horrible smelling glue which was heated up in what looked like a witch's cauldron. The body was sprayed at a local crash repair shop - initially a pale blue but changed within a couple of months to current colour. The scratch plate was cut out of a Formica sheet by a very helpful guy at City Ironmongers, a local DIY shop, where I bought the various small screws. The electrical parts came from Bensamon Radio a local Army Surplus parts shop. Every town had one of these shops in the 1960s so tone and volume pots, control knobs, capacitor, micro slide witches and jack input all came from here. These were all wired up following the original Practical Woodworker guitar plans. The guitar was eventually finished some time in 1964. Although the guitar build was originally inspired by Hank Marvin by 1964 my new guitar heroes all played Telecasters or Les Paul guitars. I bought a cheap second hand semi acoustic Les Paul lookalike (I think it was a Hohner) took the two pickups and two control knobs off my guitar and fitted them to the new one. During 1966/1967 I spent a year at Art School. In the 1960s this was a sort of finishing school for people who had creative tendencies. During this year at Art School my 'partner in crime' was Martin Briley a hugely talented guitarist and all round musician. http://www.martinbriley.com/biography.htm Martin formed his group Mandrake Paddle Steamer during this period and I got to see first hand how a band got it together and developed. Spending time with Martin made me realise that I showed no signs of any musical talent and had very little natural playing ability. I loved music then and still do - it is my oldest interest which is still with me. But I had to come to terms with the fact that I was a listener and not a player. A newly found and serious interest in photography meant my guitar playing was abandoned. The Les Paul lookalike was sold around 1967 and my home made guitar was relegated to a cupboard. Following two house moves since 1967 it remained in various cupboards for the next 50 years! In November 2016 I got the guitar out to have a look at it. Luckily it has been stored in a case so condition was as I had left it in 1965/1966 but looking sad with no strings, two missing control knobs and no pickups. I decided to get the guitar up and running again. My first thought was get the body repainted with a good high quality gloss finish, remove all stains and varnishes from the neck and fingerboard and refinish and change all hardware. But soon the vintage watch mantra of 'originality, originality, originality' kicked in and I decided to change as little as possible and keep the guitar as made in 1963. So here is what I did.................................. Body. Over the years the wood has shrunk a little and a couple of areas were the plywood had been filled have slight cracks. Other than this and a slightly flat original paint job it remains untouched. The pic above shows what is probably the worst routing on a guitar ever. Pickups. Trying to source replacement pickups has proved nigh on impossible because of their size. Apart from the odd length and width my originals were very shallow compared to most humbuckers available now. I spent hours on the internet and visited every shop in Denmark Street, London's guitar capital, before accepting that I had to find another way to solve this. I didn't want to rout out any more depth in the body and didn't want to drastically modify the scratch plate either. So with a little creative thinking I found a way round this. I bought a pair of mini humbuckers which were smaller than my originals, but have a shallow depth and attached to the scratch plate the same way as my originals ie. they were designed to be attached to a semi acoustic guitars finger plate. Pic below shows the pickups fitted. But I now needed to fit some covers the same size as the scratch plate apertures. My years of fabricating aluminium sheet to repair rotten bits of wood in doors, window ledges and door frames finally paid off. I bought a small sheet of mirror polished aluminium from ebay and commenced construction. The finished result is seen below. The holes were drilled whilst still flat and folding was done in a vice after scoring the aluminium first so it folds neatly. Folding the shorter ends required making a small jig just slightly smaller than the width so that the ends folded inside. I then fitted chromed slot screw heads as 'faux' pole adjusters and super glued the covers to the pickups. It was hard work trying to find these chromed screws and all the other chromed slot head screws I used - everyone seems to use Phillips heads now although these were a new thing in the UK in 1963. The original pickups had rounded corners which I could not fabricate so the apertures in the scratch plate was modified from round corner to square and I must admit I am pleased with the way they turned out. Ideally I would have preferred to use stainless steel which is harder wearing but it is also a much harder material and difficult to work with. Electrics. As the pickups had been removed I needed to refresh my memory of how I wired it all up. From memory I thought I had 1 volume and 2 tone pots. So it was back to the internet again this time studying wiring diagrams for 1 volume and 2 tone pots for two pickups with no selector switch. I couldn't find anything so took my temporarily wired up scratch plate to my local Guitar emporium. The guitar shop man was very helpful and advised that you cannot rig up a 1 volume plus 2 tone set up without a selector switch. You can however rig up a 2 volume plus 1 shared tone set up without a selector and he printed out a wiring diagram for this. I decided to buy new pots as the originals crackled badly and to do a completely rewire. Once completed I had to work out how to introduce the two micro ON/OFF switches above the pick ups into the circuit. These were a last minute addition to the original build and are similar to the ones used on Fender Jaguar's. I am slightly embarrassed by the poor location of these switches when originally fitted but had to stay with them. Initially I just could not remember how they were originally wired up. After close inspection I could see that each switch should have three contact points on the reverse but my pickup removable must have been clumsy as one switch had a damaged third contact and on the other switch the contact was missing altogether! I had to take each switch apart to repair them but they are OK now. These switches allow you to instantly turn each pickup on or off independently without using the volume controls. Lastly a separate ground wire was introduced to eventually screw to the bridge and the scratch plate was ready to be refitted using a new set of chrome screws. I couldn't find any tone/volume control knobs similar to my original ones so I fitted a set of Strat style tone/volume ones. These were around at the time of my original build so are period correct but there is such a variation of whites available that it was third time lucky to get a match to the scratch plate. Unfortunately the standard set of knobs are 2 tone and 1 volume but I need 2 volume and 1 tone. This remains a work in progress. Neck and headstock. Not too much to do here. Cleaned off some surplus wood stain from the frets and fitted some polished washers at the base of the machine head shafts. These are purely cosmetic as I thought the headstock looked a little bland. The machine heads were removed, cleaned and then refitted with new screws. Check out previous pic to see the cosmetic updates. The string trees are just cup washers but before refitting I added a flat washer underneath them to prevent the sharp edges cutting the strings. I also added a small ferrule so that they could be screwed tightly to the headstock making them stable. Body, bridge and strings. Some adjusting to the bridge saddles to ensure they were the same height was required . Although the fingerboard is flat the bridge has a slight radius. I replaced the original white plastic strap buttons with stainless steel ones. All the original parts removed during the restoration such as the strap buttons, wiring loom and screws have been kept safely. I was almost there and all that now remained was to fit a set of strings, tune up and plug in. I am pleased to report that it is surprisingly playable with quite a low action. Guess this was more by luck than judgement when first built as the bridge is not adjustable for height. Each pickup has its own volume control and the tone control works on both pickups. Coupled with the individual ON/OFF micro switches for each pick up there is fair amount of sound options available. My 1963 'special' is now displayed on a wall in my home office - its time in a cupboard is over. I thoroughly enjoyed the restoration process and would like to do another so it's a shame I didn't originally make two guitars.
  4. 4 points
    It's stretched the patience, understanding and tolerance of MrsAndyjr1515 to the limit, but I've worked like a Trojan to try to get this finished to be able to enter this month's "Guitar of the Month" . Now, having seen the quality of the competition, it was probably very misguided effort So a quick visual catch-up: The pre-wired, plug-in, very slick, very expensive, Schaller flagShip piezo/mag preamp mixer comes with components clearly well thought out by a world leading manufacturer and supplier of guitar components: That three way rotary with the sealed, stiff, boot sending the large, stiff cable vertically is clearly waiting for the introduction of the new ranges of 6" thick guitars that the worlds top guitar makers are bound to be bringing in soon.... Look, I love Schaller. I really do. But fellas...really? You are better than this... On that subject - which knob is the flagship Schaller one and which one is a cheap and cheerful Harley Benton offering? The nicely coated, knurled, solid brass, standard 6mm shaft, grubscrew fitted one, or the cheap, small. plastic, push-on, 3mm non standard one? Now....I love Schaller. But fellas? Really? Anyway, I cannibalised a dremel fitment and made myself a converter: And, having proved that these piezo accumulators as STILL not fit for purpose (the Hannes piezo bridge (again - this is a VERY expensive piece of equipment) I believe uses Graphtech piezo saddles. Having had multiple failures in the past years with their accumulators, I had hoped that they may have improved them. It failed. No....but I really do love Schaller... But fellas? This is plain shoddy.... Hang the warranty - I snipped the connectors off and soldered the reds together and the blacks together and fitted them directly into the screw connectors on the preamp unit. Note also the warranty breaking removal of the three way rotary boot. And - suddenly - it was finished! All it needs now...is your votes
  5. 4 points
    Hope all is well with you. Ive been incredibly busy with my new job and other life stuff. Some good, some difficult. I usually only have a few hours of free time on my days off. But just thought i'd share the couple of things ive done on my days off the past couple months.
  6. 4 points
    They are finished! Don't know about you guys, but I like so much the final result, more pics is comming ...
  7. 3 points
    Just a couple of pics of the latest Kemp Guitars custom DC that will be on it's way to Canada tomorrow. Yes, it's quite similar in looks and spec to some of my other recent work. However, aside from being a leftie, it's got a Half-fan multiscale fretboard with the revised 6-string scale lengths (25.5"-26") - which I think works better and really comes into play here as this guitar is setup with heavier 13-56 strings and is tuned to B standard... A perfect example of the need for a 6-string multiscale Full spec: Sapele archtop body, Wenge/Sapele 3-piece neck, Macassar Ebony Half-fan multiscale fretboard loaded with Jescar FW57110SS fretwire, Gotoh fixed bridge and 381 Magnum Lock tuners (Cosmo Black) and Bare Knuckle Pickups Nailbomb...
  8. 3 points
  9. 3 points
  10. 3 points
    I've had some time on this recently and we finally seem to be there bar a few minor fettling issues. I've fixed the chips in the lacquer, polished up the frets and assembled it. Last night I finished and fitted the nut, cut the slots and strung it up for the first time. There were a couple of things that still could have been wrong. The neck alignment... ... which is fine, and the clearance on the E string from nut to tuner... ... also ok despite the long ramp So to finish off I need to sort the neck pickup out - it dropped off one of the adjustment screws, adjust the bridge as some of the grub screws are rattling, and take up the slack in the truss rod - I'm hoping that settles to have a little more relief. Anyway it was good enough to have a bit of a thrash last night Sexy pics and GOTM entry to follow soon!
  11. 2 points
    I was just making a joke...
  12. 2 points
    Finally got to use my new bandsaw! The 5mm blade worked okay, but I will definitely want to get the 3mm blade for this kind of work ... took some doing inside the horns. This is a hobby-level machine, but so much nicer than using a handsaw or jigsaw. This Chinaberry apparently not what many North Americans are used to. I've had two people tell me they would have never considered this wood for a guitar, and handed them my two basses ... they were surprised they were not Balsa-soft and dead when tapped. This piece is also quite sturdy ... about the same weight as a light piece of African Mahogany, and makes a nice, healthy, lively sound when knocked on. By the way, I did say before that this was a BIG slab of wood, right? It was a failure as a table, with a full-length, crooked pith right down the middle. But I was (barely) able to squeeze three blanks out of it, and have enough straight stock for two necks ... and it seems pretty stable. One pic is lightly sanded, the other is with a bit of white gasoline (naphtha) wiped on ... very red or pink! Come to think of it, I think the auction blurb mentioned that.
  13. 2 points
    This is almost complete. It also has given me a chance to try an A/B comparison of Tru-oil with the Osmo Polyx 3044 that some of you will remember I used for the 'white wood' Psilos bass. The 3044 version is intended for white and light woods and aims to minimise the yellowing effect of most finishes. It worked well for the Psilos: ...but how well would it work on a dark wood like walnut? Mike wanted me to try The great thing, however, is that - because I use a tru-oil slurry and buff now as a sealing and filling process before sanding it all off to then apply the intended finish coats, I could do an absolute A/B comparison of Tru-Oil vs Osmo Polyx 3044. And here it is: A/B Comparison of Tru-Oil vs Osmo Polyx 3044 In both cases, the body has has a single application of oil, slurried with 400 grit wet and dry and then immediately wiped off Tru Oil: Once fully dry. This was all sanded off, leaving the body in the same pre-oil state. Osmo Polyx 3044: Quite different - especially in the darker figuring areas where the tru-oil (and water does the same) turns the figuring grey to almost black. The Osmo, on the other hand, retains the light brown. The lighting is about the same in both shots. If it's a bright enough day tomorrow, I'll repeat the shot with the same background as the tru-oil - it actually shows the contrast even more. In real life it looks lovely. Also, once it's had a few more slurry and buff coats, the silky satin feel has to be experienced to be believed Here's the back with the Osmo - DON'T PANIC - THE DISTORTION IS THE CAMERA LENS (trust me - everything is straight and true! Honest ) The edges of the hatches still need tidying up but this is basically how they will look: The matching up of the sapele grain and the walnut grain, by the way, is total coincidence... And this is the 'fan who is getting too up close and personal' 's view: I really like this product. Super easy to apply and, well, it works!
  14. 2 points
    Couple of enhancements to add, but essentially the radius jig is done: The melamine covered shelf I've used is slippery enough to be able to not worry about bearing runners for the lengthways movement. I tried it out on a bit of spare maple - Pretty good result for a first go:
  15. 2 points
    Or perhaps even when in use. Complete with wind machine, flames and a cliff-top performance.
  16. 2 points
    Today I've spent five hours cutting the edges of the cameras and sanding the interior. It was tedious and no easy but the result well worth the effort. The easy thing would have been left the round edges of the bearing of the bit, but personally I think that in this guitar the personality and the essence are just the corners, so I did. I had to build a jig with two pletins of 3 mm to act as a guide for guiding the blade of the saw in order to respect the rectitude of the line. Some pics of the process:
  17. 2 points
    No need to stress over the decision. Go with whichever way you feel is right and within your capabilities.
  18. 2 points
    And especially for @Mr Natural ...
  19. 2 points
    Twas a rotten day, but rain is coming ... The strap is a gift from my ohana daughter especially for this guitar. A little gaudy, but works well, IMHO . Recap: White Limba body, Paduak neck, Wenge fretboard, Padauk garnish everywhere. 628~648mm (approximately 24-3/4"~25.5") multiscale, TV Jones Filter'Tron Classic Plus single pickup, mixed Black/Chrome Hipshot hardware, 45 degree string-through, and .... snow-capped Mt. Fuji headstock .
  20. 2 points
    Thank you BILISHAKE I'm glad you like it. Yesterday and today I've been working on the flying-v body and is almos done. I made the bridge humbucker cavity, the cavity control, the neck pocket and the lateral carvings. I'm going to explain how I did the last ones: - For the neck pocke I used a double MDF template joined together wit screws. I used a 8 mm height piece of wood at a determinate distance for creating a 2º ramp. I used double side tape. Whe the bit couldn't go down, I unscrewed one of the templates and that way the bit is allowed to get deeper. - For the lateral carvings I used a 12.7 mm radious bit with no bearing. I built a 3 piece jig, one acts as a base for the router, another one acts as a stopo block, and the third is 1.5 mm longer and acts as a rail to avoid that the router can desestabilize. In went down in increments of 3 milimeters. Some pics of the process:
  21. 2 points
    Wow it's been a while! This has been a busy month but I finally can update the thread. I glued the new layer and got it to shape. Sadly... it kind of moved when using the clamps so the shape end up wrong on the top layer. Rookie mistake. After I finished that I just put the body away (I was tired of working on that new top layer!) and kind of wanted to try out the paint, so I used it on the headstock. I liked that reflective effect The next day I thought about painting the guitar body, which was scary because I didn't know how would plywood react. In my country, when you ask hardware store workers for wood primer they look at you like if you had asked them if you can lick their ears. They literally don't know what that is. I looked up something like homemade primer and saw something about using a mixture of wood glue and water. Tried it out but it didn't work, which I assume is because I used a lot more water than glue. Something else to have in mind for next time, would love to try it out. So, started painting the body even with that questionable layer of homemade primer And meanwhile, working on the neck, just as Dan from Guns And Guitars taught me A total 8 layers of paint with no intention of covering it with lacquer, I dig the exposed paint look. It was kind of dissappointing the look it got without primer, but it wasn't like I'd ruined a great guitar body anyways Besides, I also think that looks is part of its charm haha. I took no photos of the wiring process as I kind of rushed it at 3am so I could finally use my guitar hahaha. But it was very rustic, and also the first wiring I've done that fully worked (thank god). A thing to mention is that I didnt know how to ground the bridge. I've seen it done with standard tremolo bridges but never on a top loading one like mine. So I just cut through the pickup's ring and pulled the cable out of there to make it get stuck between some saddles. Rustic but works. (It wouldn't solder directly to the bridge so I just put it in there) When I put the strings on I noticed a huge fret buzz and the 9th fret wouldn't let any other fret before it make sound. I rushed to make it work without taking into account that It would be 'fixed' by the effect the strings would have on the neck. That is a thing right? I think that's what happened, because after a while I could lower the action/saddles and got no buzz. A bad thing with this cheap bridge is that the high E saddle got stuck and it's at a ridiculously high action. I have no idea how to make that work out. I'll find a way. The final step was installing the chinese strap locks with a little bit of glue. I'd never had a guitar with strap locks before and I really like the feeling of having them on this guitar So, I reach the end of the road. There you can see some cheap covers I improvised with plywood scraps. Welcome to the family (I wouldnt use the bridge position for playing clean haha) Thanks a lot everyone, for helping out with my first build. I feel like I'm more proud than I should be But yes, this feels like a huge accomplishment. Can't wait to get to a new project
  22. 2 points
    field trip time_ Creature Comforts Brewery in Athen Georgia. Georgia law just changed November 1st and breweries can sell direct to the public- previously you had to "buy a tour ticket" and as part of the tour you might be able to taste some, and maybe get a six pack as part of the tour. Now- they can sell up to something like 256 ounces per person per day. They have a system that takes your drivers license number, and confirms your identity and I assume some sort of database as well for reporting to state agencies. anywho- they released Tropicalisma, which is a double IPA based on their very good Tropicalia IPA- which is excellent brew. They also released a few others that I didnt care about. (A saison, a biere der garde and a Grissette). The doors opened for this even at 1pm, My nephew and I arrived at 1:20 pm and the line stretched around the block. 20 minutes later we finally round the corner one hour later we are half a block closer the tent on the other side of those green bushes is our destination one hour later (yes- I am that much of a beer dork to stand in line for 2 hours to get this stuff) I am 10 people from finally getting to buy this special release- after my long waited for purchase was over- I stepped into the surprisingly small brewery itself- and driving away from the brewery- I forgot to take a pic of the outside- so out the back window it is and prize arrives home, about to be chilled to perfection.I forgot to take a pic of it in a glass- so- maybe next weekend.
  23. 2 points
    All right, this time the clearcoat polished up fine. I didn't fully level it with wetsanding except a few places, didn't want to push my luck (and I didn't put a whole lot on), instead I reduced orange peel a bit just by buffing, the end result is pretty good. I even managed to get the insides of the cutaways nearly perfect after a session with the micromesh sanding pads. I've put all the hardware on so now it's just the remaining bit of setup work. I think I'll need to file the bridge saddles down a little, my neck angle (and fb thickness) ended up a little on the low side and I can't get the action as low as it should be on the treble side. Actually everything is low profile, the pickups are sitting almost flush with the pickguard.. I need to watch this more carefully in the future.
  24. 2 points
    Blocks aquired. I didn't consider the fact that every idiot is out driving around this weekend. I bought my blocks then tried to drive around back to get them loaded but a couple of dipshits were blocking the drive. I waited ten minutes patiently, then lost my temper and got out and told them exactly what I thought about their parking skills (they could have easily left enough room or actually even moved over at some point while I was waiting). I don't know what they thought of my diatribe. I guess they felt intimidated, because they just got in their truck without saying a word and drove away. They wouldn't even make eye contact. I guess I haven't lost my touch. So. Blocks in position and I bug bombed everything and threw mothballs everywhere. By Wednesday it will be in the 50s, so I'll be able to get under there without worrying about snakes or wasps.
  25. 2 points
    My buddy came by today and had a flashlight, so we peered under that house to get an idea of what's going on. Believe it or not, the wood structure is phenomenal. The floor is 2x8 joists sitting on top of a double 2x12 beam system sitting on concrete blocks that are spaced too far apart(hence the need for leveling). So all I need is a truckload of blocks and several floor jacks and I'm in business. There is one floor joist under the kitchen sink that will have to be replaced. I'll just slip a new one in next to the old on both sides and replace a small section of floor...and THAT is the only structural defect in the entire house. Everything else is superficial. When I get a stronger flashlight I'll take pics.
  26. 2 points
    Ooh - that's better! £40 from eBay and well worth it. Lovely steady light and much brighter than the fluorescent it replaced
  27. 2 points
    Here's a video I did some time ago about a guitar I built for my daughter's 7th birthday. Initially I didn't post it here since I figured this is not really the target audience, but then maybe somebody will find parts interesting or amusing. Also I watched @sdshirtman 's videos and figured why not (BTW where is part 6 of the Helix build??! ) So just a word of introduction: I tried to film every part of the build process. Some parts are missing, mostly tedious jobs like sanding etc, also I think I lost a clip or two - but in total this was something like 9h of video material that I compressed into 13 episodes of around 10-15 minutes each (mostly by speeding up the footage). There is a lot of narration because the aim was for the video to accompany the guitars, i.e. I'm explaining the build process in a way that someone with no idea about guitar building could understand. Possibly even a 7-year-old. Also (as I keep stating in the video), this is not a how-to, it's more of a "proof that you can build a guitar in the kitchen" video. I'm probably doing some silly things here or there, but the end result is perfectly fine. Oh, and it's all in Polish - but I subtitled the whole thing in English. Anyway, here's the playlist with all episodes:
  28. 2 points
    That's a trick question.....and it answers mine. Unless you are like my buddy @pauliemc over in Dublin and marry a rocker chick, then the answer is: of course not. At least for the first several years. Once you've been married long enough (to start getting on each other's nerves---er, I mean to be completely comfortable with each other), they start looking forward to you having another room (garage, closet, shed, back porch, or as we sometimes see here, balcony) where you can go and spend extended periods of time building guitars (staying out of their hair). It's a worthy goal. SR
  29. 2 points
    ...Meet the Brollichan. It's still rough in places but getting there. Very pleased with the deep cutaway. Might encourage me to play up there more.
  30. 2 points
    Mockup Time! Still several applications (guess "coats" doesn't work) of Odie's Oil to go, but had to do a mockup to confirm bridge location and nut height (more honestly, to drool over my own build, and get a sense for balance and feel). Looks like weight will be a little over/under 8 pounds (3.65g). I wasn't really shooting for light weight, though Limba IS a light wood, but wanted a full 2 inches (51mm) of body thickness. I could have thinned the body, made a larger controls cavity, or even taken off a tummy cut and arm contour ... but that would have made it too "stratty" (thought that might happen on Padauk Mt.Fuji #2 ).
  31. 2 points
    Finished: Custom 8-string KR3 - Buckeye Burl top on Swamp Ash body (wings), Wenge/Maple 3-piece thru-neck, Marblewood fretboard, ABM 3210s, Hipshot Grip-lock, BKP Painkiller (custom 16 degree baseplate) w/ aged cream coils...
  32. 2 points
    Last night I finished cleaning up the edges of the board using my trusty 80 grit sanding beam, followed by my 180 grit beam. I'm doing a fair bit of sanding on the ebony having got a few chips on the few times I've waved a plane at it. It takes a bit longer but at less risk. I then had to file down the top of the truss rod washer as it was sitting a little proud. There's a thing I should have paid more attention to before gluing in the fillet Finally to round off the evening I made the vertical cut in the headstock plate. The nut will nestle up against it, so it needed to be nice and square. I clamped my set square in place to give me a guide, scored with an xacto-knife, then set about it with one of the nice new Japanese pull saws that my class have bought. I've not used one before, but it was a real joy to use and lovely & accurate I cut most of the way through the ebony until I could see the mahogany at the edges of the cut, then chipped off the ouffcut with a chisel. Otherwise I'd have been sawing down into the mahogany before the centre of the cut was through. Anyway a chisel carefully applied to the end grain chipped it away no problem - it's what ebony wants to do A little tidying with a cabinet scraper to remove the old Titebond squeeze out that was remaining, and the job's a good 'un
  33. 1 point
    No - sorry...should have explained. This is going to be fully reversible. I was dubious at first this would work but am pretty sure now it's going to work just fine. The plate is flat and stable (it's been sitting loose on the headstock for the past few weeks from an unusually mild spell, to heavy rain and high humidity to (for us) very cold and snow back to mild with no problems). The tuner bushes and string tree will hold the plate securely so the double-sided tape is just to make sure the edges don't lift. They can't go anywhere even if they do... I know - madness. But this is Andyjr1515...
  34. 1 point
    Yeah well, she moved to Florida. Poor me. Lol
  35. 1 point
    Well, this sucks. All the snow is melting and soaking the ground under where I levelled that house. Now I have to wait for it to dry and see if it shifted. I guess when I do that I better prioritize getting the underpinning back in so that won't happen again.
  36. 1 point
    Having finished the Alembic-esque build, I'm heading back to the sister build, which will be for my own use. This is where I'd got to before I put it down to finish off Tim's : Other than the lack of the carve through arm relief forming the 'sucked lozenge' on Tim's, the woods are the same, so the overall look should be similar. This is the start of the convex/concave carve: There's a bit further to go but hopefully you get the idea. Now one thing I'm really, really bad at is spending the time to build jigs. BUT, I've come to the conclusion that life is too short for hand radiusing fretboards! So, I've cribbed a design from LedBelliBass on HomemadeTools.net and modded it a bit and here it is in progress: I'm undecided whether or not to put roller bearings on the lengthways slide or just use guide strips (the whole thing will be mounted on a flat, smooth box-plank. For indexing, I will use a simple peg and hole system. I'm hoping I can finish it tomorrow and so kick off re-commencement of this build later next week
  37. 1 point
    That's quite a design This will be a very interesting project to follow the progress. Can't wait
  38. 1 point
    It's going to end up Les Paulish in weight. I'm looking forward to seeing this come together, should be fascinating. SR
  39. 1 point
    Well, it didn't take long to get the laser. They had one of those nifty cross line lasers that runs a line in about a 100 MOA arc, so I was able to set everything. Tomorrow is a big chance for rain as well as the day the latest Destiny DLC drops, so I am glad to get this side done. As bad as D2 is, I still want to stay current with the changes. Probably be biring as fuck again in a week, but hey...I will at least have a few hours of fun.
  40. 1 point
    Well, I picked up a Poulan Pro 18" and some good 12" sawzall blades, so I'm set for tomorrow. Actually, I'm kind of surprised how easy it was to get that one RR tie under there in place. Tomorrow should be fun. Luckily the exterior beams are the only ones that need replacing. It actually would be a nightmare if I had to drag those things underneath.
  41. 1 point
    so- Thanksgiving Holiday got in the way of progress here. I also changed my mind on my original idea regarding electronics and such. I have finalized on the following Fender style trem vs the bigsby I was going to use for this. I am saving the bigsby for another project, I was originally going to go with 2 P-90s but I want some balls in the bridge - but I didnt want to give up on the p-90 either- so- compromised and going to use a Seymour Duncan P-rails in the bridge, and I was going to use a mini DPDT on/off/on switch to go between the p-90, the rail and then humbucker (series)mode-(I did this with a lap steel I built a few years back) but I notice Duncan has come out with these Triple Shot humbucker rings with switches in them that allow for the p-90/rails/and humbucker in both series and parallel modes. Think I will give that a shot and have one less switch on the face of the guitar. I am doing a test on the headstock. It appears that teisco guitars did not have a headstock angle. they also appear to not have string anchors-so- I am wondering how "deep" the face of the headstock has to be to get enough pressure over the nut so not to cause any issues. In other words folks- i havent completely finished the "plan" for the neck- and should before I continue. progress pics forthcoming
  42. 1 point
    Not so much anymore, Mike. All the Magnums and several of the more popular handgun rounds are available in supersonic. Check out Buffalo Barnes ammo for the more modern high pressure loads. The 454 casul for example. https://www.buffalobore.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=333
  43. 1 point
    Been jonesing for a big bore revolver. I like my .357 , but I am fascinated by the .454 casull Super Blackhawk/Redhawk. I've never paid attention to it before, but it works similarly to a .357 in that you can fire the heavy .454 rounds or the much milder .45 colt rounds without changing cylinders or anything. The .45 colt rounds are just slightly hotter than .357, but the 454 casull can throw a heavy ass bullet at 1900 fps, generating almost 2000 foot pounds of muzzle energy. A typical .44 mag generates around 900 foot pounds. It's totally a Bear/Moose gun, but I think I could have a lot of fun with the .45 colt rounds at the range while still having the capability of running heavy if I ever do get up to bear country.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Yep, I understand. I was being facetious (hence the winky-smiley face at the end of my comment). Maybe I should've said 'if you gave a drummer a guitar painted in an opaque...' I reckon there just wasn't enough mojo in your banjo. Or maybe not enough beer at rehearsal...or too much, even?
  46. 1 point
    Amazing Job! This top is incredible!
  47. 1 point
    Wow, agreed on all counts. That's a very novel use of the Hannes bridge also! Only one entry got GOTM though! haha
  48. 1 point
    I did, but I think the muscle relaxers had something to do with it as well.
  49. 1 point
    I see you share @Andyjr1515 's propensity for using the wife's in the house spaces for building and finishing. Do you wait till she is out, like he does, or are you just adept at dodging low flying toasters? SR
  50. 1 point
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