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Entry for October 2019's Guitar Of The Month is now open!
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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/24/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    I finally had time to buff up the finish. I'm out of Maguiar's, but it's just as well since I haven't oiled the back yet. Almost there...
  2. 4 points
    Got the front about semigloss. I may keep it there. If not I'll hit it with the buffing wheel in a month. Still quite a few touch ups around the pickguard, controls, and a corner. Still working on the back as well.
  3. 4 points
    And finished This week I'm doing the final setup bits and pieces but this will go to Matt sometime next week. I'm hoping that Matt will be able to do one of his videos of it when he gets time (the ones featuring my own guitars and basses should be published in the next few weeks). Here it is: As always, many thanks for the encouragement and kind words along the way
  4. 4 points
    Hey guys, been a while since I’ve been on. I’ve started 2 other companies and life with a 2 year old is insane so guitar build had to take a bit of a step back for a bit. I found a little time last weekend to finish this one up and figured I’d share it here. N12 semi hollow, 25.5” scale curly maple top, curly maple back, sapele body, Sapele neck, dark roasted curly maple fretboard, hipshot hardware, suhr ssv/ssh pickups, dye and tru oil finish. Ive had a few days to play on it and it quickly turned into my number 1 guitar and I’ll be keeping this one for sure.
  5. 4 points
    Oh - I'm only on page 2 of the forum. Quiet summer? Hooray - I'm back at class! I put the second template I made to immediate use and I'm quite pleased with my efforts to align the wood grain. I also drilled the jack entry hole with a 22mm forstener bit - you can just see where it meets the bottom corner of the chamber in the top picture. Next week I'll drill for the pickup wires and then start a fair bit of sanding. It's nice to be making sawdust again
  6. 3 points
    Hello Everyone, here's my entry for the October GOTM. Name; Standard General Body wood: Sapele mahogany and flame maple Neck wood: Sapele laminated with maple veneer accent stripes Fretboard: Rosewood bound with flame maple and luminlay side dots Hardware: Evertune bridge, Hipshot locking tuners Electronics: BareKnuckle Rebel Yells with coil splitting push push tone pots Other Features: Grain matched backplates, paduak inlay at 12th fret, neck volute, wenge logo inlay This guitar is for my bandmate who is in love with Gibson SGs. However with all the inherent problems with them I decided I would build him one to the same specs as an SG, but then buff it up here and there. Somethings that make it special and a little different than your "standard" SG are upgraded hardware and electronics, a thicker body (to counterbalance the typical neck dive), an added volute so it HOPEFULLY wont break at the headstock, grain matched cavity covers and custom band inlays at the 12th. This was the first guitar I have ever built that was a) 24.75" scale and b) with any sort of neck angle. It added some challenges and I really enjoyed thinking out side the box to accomplish it precisely. This was probably the sixth or seventh guitar I have built. Thanks for looking!
  7. 3 points
    Here are some updated pics! Mikro, I have used literally every type of pickup in the last year!
  8. 3 points
    I'm pore filling and sealing with Simtec easy sanding sealer. That is a catalyzed polystyrene that does a great jopb of pore filling and does not shrink. While it fills pores it does not grab them especially well and relies on a mechanical bond. If you take care there is no issue. Since I polish the wood prior to coating I decided to use a shellac coat first....because shellac sticks to everything and everything sticks to shellac. Supposedly. Here are the glossy shellac coats and for thoe that like the matte look, the leveled shellac. I did spray the Simtec and took pics....that totally sucked, so you don't get to see them. Then I sanded it smooth and smooth forgot to take pics of that step....so no pics there either. Sorry. I shot another layer of shellac to stick to the Simtec and to give the lacquer something better to stick to. And I waited as long as I was supposed to to start leveling that, planning to get a dust coat of lacquer and maybe a couple of wet coats too. But I decided the shellac wasn't hard enough yet, so that will wait till tomorrow. So these are the only pics you get this weekend. SR
  9. 3 points
    And here's the the last one. I used the other side where the shellac was since it was already sealed with filler. Black first sanded back quite a bit with 220, red sanded by lighter grit 320, then amber. So, I couldn't keep the black in those lines without leaving a lot left over. I didn't want the age look so those didn't come through as strong which i think was for the better seeing the contrast. Here's the comparison with the guitar. Fretboard will not change in color. Nitro will also be added to these guys.
  10. 2 points
  11. 2 points
    I passed this across to Matt this afternoon. I'm pleased and relieved to say that he is very, very pleased with it He will doing a proper recording at some stage of it, but this was a quick couple of mobile-phone clips I did of him playing it 'straight out of the box' : https://youtu.be/-Bckzvnup7I https://youtu.be/4qQ9iHK22IE I'm well chuffed
  12. 2 points
    I got around to measuring the thickness of the back all over and its mostly 3.5 to 4.0 millimetres and I'm happy with that. I used a "Beaver" drill bit on the f-hole patch (I think I bought that thing in the 1980's and finally found a use for it!. I blended the patch into the underside of the top with an orbital sander Pictures = Proof Now all I gotta do is buy some popsicles.....
  13. 2 points
    For those who think CNC is just a push the button tool... Keeping in mind it's a custom one time job, massive overengineering here, translating client's AI sketch to a proper CAD model.
  14. 2 points
    The last couple years have been... weirder than expected, but definitely getting better. I want to get back to building and spending time here I hope all has been well for you too!
  15. 2 points
    for me.. its just finishing the sweethearts... at 73 and with thousands behind me over almost 60 years... when I finally get it strung up and the preliminary setup.. and strum it the first time... the thought still races through my head, "Jeez.. I made that..." What's not to love... Just think if we played the Oboe.. ever try to make an Oboe? Yeah, me neither... r
  16. 2 points
    While I truly like the way it looks right now, this is going to need some heavy protection. That limba is the lightest I have ever found, and likewise the softest. It reminds me a lot of some light Spanish cedar I used a while back. You can easily mark it with a fingernail. This will be getting a polyester sealer and nitro like the not quite a tele I made over the winter.That also will make the burl look super deep. SR
  17. 2 points
    The key thing is to get the nut, frets and bridge in the right place. As long as they are correct everything else is negotiable. Mistakes can become features. It's not a race, and you can take as long as you like to get something you're happy with. The main thing is to enjoy it and take pleasure with the things you get right. Welcome to the forum, do keep us updated and feel free to ask any questions
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    I bet he did that because he could say "cut loose like a deuce" without giggling (I know I cant) ;). but that guitar... nothing to giggle at there... def an ace. (totally unrelated to the post below mine and not an edit... but officially would like to petition the courts to change your user name to "GreatScott")
  20. 1 point
    Artstic licence. Sometimes misconstrued for a poor memory and being to lazy to look it up. SR
  21. 1 point
    Okay. I think that I'll raise this as a support ticket as I can't find a fault in settings.
  22. 1 point
    I like how you seem to complete entire guitars in the time between my posts on the site Scott. Looking into your posting issue as I write this (sort of simultaneously).
  23. 1 point
    You've got it in one! That's exactly how I felt ;)
  24. 1 point
    During my wakeup process I thought about this a little more. That's exactly how it is! If you set the guitar laying on her back so the strings are perfectly horizontal, the neck is slanted towards the body. That's very subtle but there's a chicken ladder from the body to the nut. Another thought I got was about the logic of having the zero fret as low as the rest. Basically that's what happens with a capo, a barre and even with every single fretted note. So what's the difference? First, when you push a string against a fret there's a steeper angle than that of the neck break. That will raise the string somewhat at the fret exit as the string doesn't bend sharply. Also, the higher the fret the more angle there is towards the bridge. Remember, we're talking about fractions of a millimetre here! Yet another thing to consider is the muting effect on the tuner side of the string caused by the palm/finger/capo. An open string vibrates also between the nut and the tuner, a fingered string gets dampened by the softer flesh or plastic. Finally, if the zero fret should be of equal height with the rest, why is there an elevated bridge in fretless instruments? Shouldn't a string guide at the end of the fretboard suffice? Caution! My posts are just logical thinking without any stone carved facts behind them. Have some salt at hand.
  25. 1 point
    With that logic the nut slots should be level with the frets... I can understand that statement to a degree but the mechanics haven't been thoroughly thought over. Alongside of guiding the strings the nut is a device for adjusting the gap between the frets and the strings. A zero fret takes the role of height adjusting, leaving the nut slots only for keeping the spacing between strings equal. As you may know about setting the string height and action, you'd start by straightening the neck and continue by leveling the frets. After that you'd file the nut slots to a desired height for a smooth action in the lower frets area. Over the first fret you should have approximately 0.6 mm in average, some 0.15 mm more on the bass side and the same amount less on the treble side. When you get that right, adjust the bridge so that the distance between the 12th fret and the strings is appr. 2 mm. Then release the truss rod just a tad so that the 12th fret gap is about 2.5 mm. That should give you a medium action all the way through the neck. Some prefer it lower, some higher You can have the zero fret the same height as the rest. That would require a lot of relief on the neck and a high bridge to prevent buzzing. Setting the action is much easier when you add that 0.5 mm to the nut or zero fret.
  26. 1 point
    I put the surgery off for three months trying to figure that out. I rented a set up that supported my face to sleep face down and reconfigured to support my head face down at a table in a reading position during the day. I got a ten minute break per hour if needed to eat and per. And I read 7 books in 4 days. It was definitely the most intimidating aspect of the operation. Now to see if my vision comes back.... SR
  27. 1 point
    Outstanding Andy! I really enjoyed Matt's playing too. You surely ought to be chuffed. SR
  28. 1 point
    Yep, rubber bushings between the top and the feet. They stay on the screw enough to set the screw in, slide on the bushing, move the pickup in place, and then wiggle it all around until it finds the right hole in the pickup. Something I hope to only have to do once.
  29. 1 point
    Absolutely beautiful Scott, that is an awesome guitar, it won't be long until string up, what is the first song you will play on it?
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Good luck with your surgery tomorrow! SR
  32. 1 point
    wow, beauty build and that finish just really popped it. nice work.
  33. 1 point
    Beautiful. It just gets better and better!
  34. 1 point
    Wow, very nice! This new coloration of your body ties in nicely to the colors you used for the fretboard inlays. SR
  35. 1 point
    I think you should be fine - You know where those thin spots are and can therefore be careful, especially when installing frets. I suppose you could add some bracing if you're worried, but acoustic tops are also very thin and delicate too.
  36. 1 point
    Looking good Zeke, I need to revamp my designs and start incorporating something new myself. LOL!! MK
  37. 1 point
    Yeah, that should become a thing of the past, SR
  38. 1 point
    Thanks Mike. I figured the scroll would not be for everybody....and of course it's not, It's for me! Just thinking about the down time is driving me bat shit crazy....so it will probably turn out to be no big deal in reality. SR
  39. 1 point
    There are some parts I really don't like about guitar building - I don't much enjoy anything to do with slotting fretboards, hammering or levelling frets. I don't much enjoying preparing blanks, resawing a billet of wood with a hand saw is no fun at all, in fact I'm still aching from bookmatching some walnut at the weekend. But, I do like having done all those things. Now that my finishing has taken a big leap in quality, my favourite stage is seeing a the figure pop with a coat of lacquer on it. But honestly I really enjoy the whole process in making a functional piece of art, and all the small jobs that I don't enjoy soon get forgotten when it's got strings on it.
  40. 1 point
    Looking at that last photo, this is going to be slendiferous
  41. 1 point
    That's good to know, you have confirmed my suspicion that I don't currently have a lot of use for a scroll saw I've finished fretting the two, used nickel silver wire on the ebony and stainless steel on the rosewood. Rosewood was a real pita, glad I ran out of fret wire
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Hi Guys! I Love this forum and I am very excited to present to you my first guitar. I've been playing guitar occasionally for approx. 20 years now and did some minor repairs before. I've been working on it for about 3 months. Just have some final fret levelling to do in the future - did it twice already and it's getting better every time The project is mine from start to finish and it was meant to be experimental. At the start planed to use the standard headless bridge, but had some old broken guitar mashine heads begging to be reused. I used my construction CNC in my workshop. My background is mostly 3d construction in architecture/interior/furniture design. Name: Hanar Specs: - maple body&neck - black oak fingerboard - DIMARZIO DP227BC LiquiFire (ZB, neck) - DIMARZIO DP228FBC Crunch Lab F-Spaced (ZB, bridge) - 3 position switch - scale 25 1/2" - 24 steel frets jumbo Sintoms - profile "wide fat" C/D - 42mm/57mm - Finish- Tung oil - Fretboard radius - 12
  45. 1 point
    Here’s the next episode, finished off the inlays https://youtu.be/1cZGlbNJ9Fs
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    With the exception of a couple sets of Seymour Duncan's and a couple sets that Restoration AD made, all my builds have gotten Kleins. https://www.kleinpickups.com/ I've used '58, '59, and wicked PAF's, several combinations of P-90's and Tele sets and the Jazz Cat strat. And I've got a set of Hot P-90s and a custom wound strat middle wound hot enough to keep up with P-90s ready to go in this current build. Did you say Ash owns Oil City? SR
  48. 1 point
    Very nicely put, as it captures exactly my intent. The gradually lightened shades along with the finer grit for the sand back help accent the deeper shadow, to lighter shadow, to deeper mid-tone, to lighter mid-tone, areas, enhancing the three dimensional effect. I must say I was a bit shocked at how much color and contrast the oil brought out, even when I thought I knew what to expect. I guess burl is a whole 'nother animal. SR
  49. 1 point
    Well... There was quite some sunny days but the only guitar related thing I did was to reshape the neck of El Pish. This one stayed in the bag all summer long until today when the course started again. Course? Well, for most of us it's therapy but in the booklet it says Guitar Building Course, with the aim of building a bolt on T or S type... Anyhow, today I spent most of the day sanding, damping, sanding, damping until finally I was all fed up with the sanding and opened the bottle of Crimson Penetrating Guitar Finishing Oil. She became alive:
  50. 1 point
    Roughly placed, they almost correspond to a music staff, and maybe a bit of Bohemian Rhapsody melody. But I won't throw out the form for function.
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