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Entry for March 2018's Guitar Of The Month is under way!



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Showing most liked content since 02/18/2018 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Introducing the Pinky Dinky Mahogany/Alder 3-and-a-bit-piece SS body, Maple (reverse F-style) neck, Richlite fretboard, Gotoh fixed bridge (Cosmo Black), Gotoh 381 tuners (Cosmo Black), Irongear "Metal Machine" pup and Amaranth Red matte finish
  2. 6 points
    A few pics in the today's sun: 192 by Goran P, on Flickr 193 by Goran P, on Flickr 194 by Goran P, on Flickr
  3. 5 points
    I dyed the back with the cavity cover in place so the burst incorporates it. Then on to Tru-Oil coats. SR
  4. 5 points
    What's been happening in the Kemp workshop this week so far... Firstly, sorting out some wood for the new batch of customs just started, including this Ash (custom 7-string SD carvetop) body with Maple neck and Flame Maple fretboard... And today I've been carving the Leopardwood neck...
  5. 5 points
    Just a little update. I finally got the Paduak SS sanded and a few coats of oil on it. Darkened up a lot, but is looking really organic.
  6. 4 points
    Good morning all. I know as a builder on this and other forums that people always clamor for audio samples of the finished products. I know I like to hear how these babies sound after following someones build thread So anyway, heres a song that features both of my GOTM and GOTY axes. The Phoenix build, and the blue 22 special. The rhythm guitar is the 22 special, and the solo is played on the phoenix. Theres a bit of a story that goes with the song. The short version is the lead vocals is my son Chris and the vocal track was recorded just a few weeks before he died and was the last time I saw him while he was still living. http://www.addictguitars.com/?page_id=4443
  7. 4 points
    I spent a couple of hours squaring up the sides of the tenon, using a micro-plane, a freshly sharpened chisel and set square. It's now 40mm wide, parallel to the centre line and square to the top surface
  8. 4 points
    I began a test on scrap process that has a couple of pieces finished the same way and then has Tru-Oil started, with the plan being to pore fill with pumice and slurry. It also illustrates how the body will look in time. SR
  9. 4 points
    Assembly time! My son helped (it means he has claimed the guitar), but being 8, we went trough the paint on the tip of the headstock while polishing...I guess we can live with that. The clause is that he has to take lessons 184 by Goran P, on Flickr Bridge and the wiring to follow!
  10. 4 points
    Next batch of builds on the bench... Maple necks with Flame Maple, Richlite (again) and Wenge fretboards. Bodies in Ash, Sipo, Korina and Sipo with Flame Maple top. Doesn't look too fancy at the moment but they will when "finished" In the meantime, finally got the Pinky Dinky on the blanket today... Frets sorted and shielding (rear cavity and pup rout) done ready for assembly and setup tomorrow
  11. 4 points
    I am not yet finished sanding with 120 grit.... ....and it will take all week for my fingerprints to grow back. SR
  12. 3 points
    Flame Maple and lots of...
  13. 3 points
    I started pore filling with fine pumice. I find the best way is to sprinkle the powder on and then rub it into the pores with my fingers. Then rub in Tru-Oil, which turns the pumice clear and creates a slurry. It also creates a noticeably harder layer that has a flat or satin finish. Subsequent coats of oil bring the gloss back (learned from my test pieces), and it appears that swatches cut from an old pair of blue jeans make a great Tru-Oil applicator. The tight twill weave seems to leave no lint and any threads that get loose are giant and easy to pick out of the oil. SR
  14. 3 points
    For the maple fretboard I was going to use some NZ Paua to get the contrast, but for the macassar I think MoP would work better. I cut out a couple of swifts for the 12th and routed the shapes with the dremel precision base: Then glued them in with epoxy mixed with fretboard sanding dust and added the MoP dots for the other positions: Then a quick sand with the radius block:
  15. 3 points
    And after a day of heavy sanding we get this. SR
  16. 3 points
    Started on the hand carving elements of this build today; neck and tummy carve... and this handsome forearm carve. Yep, that's Ebony there
  17. 3 points
    Derail welcome! All good knowledge. I got a bit more done today. Started routing the body. Coming along fine.
  18. 2 points
    Mike to tell the truth my one of my biggest fears in life is loosing the ability to care for myself, I know I get that naturally my dad and grandmother where both very independent and I watched both loose that (niether did so gracefully). I don't think you can ever be ready for that kind of loss of mobility. On a lighter note I have a small collection of vintage radios, any way I was searching cl for stereos when I ran across a old radio shack realistic. That one wasnt really my tast but I don't have any realistic brand radios so I hit eBay and did a search for "realistic". Maybe I should have searched "realistic stereo"
  19. 2 points
  20. 2 points
    Ok, I got it out. I first plugged in the soldering iron, and while it was heating up I whacked the screw once or twice with a center punch and a hammer. Then I grabbed a bigger forstner bit and hogged out more of the cavity-to-be. That allowed me to get in there with the regular vice grips (as opposed to the needle nose) and I was able to twist it out without using the soldering iron.
  21. 2 points
    Talked with the insurance company about the Doctor bills and such being out of network when I was in the ER and hospital . They told me not to worry that they are covered as in network for these events. So, I am good. That is a relief. MK
  22. 2 points
  23. 2 points
    Thanks guys glad to hear that you like it. As promised some more pictures how it looks at the moment. Just got the neck glued in but got some sanding and stuff left. The neck is Swedish oak and padauk. But unfortunately it got an aesthetic issue. Didn't do that much thinking when cutting the pieces for it and the centre piece is a little to wide. Which made the padauk peak out on one side when cutting the taper. It Bothers me a alot but it's an easy fix, will just paint the neck solid orange and red and of course add a crackle finish to that as well.
  24. 2 points
    My wife and I spent the weekend in Atlanta, went over there for a concert. We went to a really great restaurant in Decatur called Leon's Full Service. The building used to be a full service gas station. Tremendous pub grub. The place was opened by the owners of The Brick Store Pub, which is one of the best beer bars in the world. So, naturally they had a nice draft selection. Got to try a few different brews, a couple fairly local: Creature Comforts, Coffee Reclaimed Rye Three Taverns, A Night on Ponce IPA 21st Amendment, Baby Horse Quad All were excellent!
  25. 2 points
    Wanted to start an official build thread for this project. I had posted before regarding questions I had so hopefully you'll forgive what might seem like a double post. Will try to keep this thread focused on evolution... here is the body I bought - not bad for $178. Its a wd 3A flamed maple that has a good split in the back by the control area which I will need to fill in. as posted elsewhere my intended wireup... This weekend I went to rockler here in phoenix. I just found out we had one and man... I could spend years in that store. Staying on point: I bought a piece of 1/8" maple that had a little bit of flame on it ($13). I built it into a trem rout cover and a control cover. Not exactly skilled workmanship as my string holes are 'compensated' (feature not a bug) even though I used a drill press. Didn't bother clamping down my material so - lesson learned! Anywho, good enough for the likes of me so here is what that looks like: also, in the background is a simple jig I built for my dremel router base to use in cutting the 5 way slot once my bits arrive. Here's a shot of the body with the babicz bridge I bought (got a deal on amazon for $117! plus signed up for a card so got $40 off). Wasn't thrilled with the amount of 'wobble' in the posts (when not screwed all the way in) that came with it but I guess the general consensus is it doesn't matter. I bought some wilkinson locking posts but they don't fit as smooth so... I figure I can add washers if I need to raise it - to keep it screwed tight so they don't wobble. my parts bin on the right... so far have a graph tech nut, some gotoh sgs 510z magnum locking tuners, a 5 way super switch, a 4p3t rotary, some gold pickguard screws and a neckplate and screws - so far. Have two texas specials and a seymour antiquity middle in my 'misc' pickups bin so... waiting on a musikraft cbs neck that should be about 4-6wks out yet. will update as I go! Thanks for watching!
  26. 2 points
    My Mom is currently dealing with a slew of Doctors and somehow she finds her way through all the billing and Medicare/Medicaid hurtles that come her way. Her health is poor because of a lifetime of horrible eating habits. I remember being a kid and her weighing of 300 pounds(which was insanely unusual in the 70s/80s) and she kept telling me how her doctor would always tell her she was "amazingly healthy despite her weight". Even as a kid I knew she was lying. I'm sure her Doctor said something more in the line of "You are okay now, but if you don't lose weight you will eventually not be okay." So now, she's borderline diabetic and constantly telling me she has to watch her blood sugar. Then, at the same time tells me I don't eat enough and that's "not healthy". A lot of denial going on there. Meanwhile, my best friend thinks I have "body dismorphic disorder", because I'm much thinner than the average person my age and I still watch my diet closely...as if I'm crazy because I don't let myself get past a "34" waist. It's an insane body image we've let ourselves believe...as if it's normal and healthy for a non-bodybuilder less than 6'4 to weigh over 200lbs. An extremely fit person is constantly called "skinny", as if it's a bad thing to run 2-5 miles per day. Then, conversely, we have the guys who think Chris Hemsworth is not an ideal specimen because he's not Arnold Schwarzenegger. For them, pure size means everything. I don't know. I just don't get it. To me, the guy who plays Loki or Captain America when he was Johnny Storm... those guys have a much more fit and sustainable form, yet no matter WHAT you do, someone is going to try to tear you down. On FB, every time I talk about my current restrictions in diet the people who are still fit like my posts, while the (forgive my bluntness) fatter ones says things like "you're going to ruin your kidneys" or "that's not enough food for a man your size." It's insane. Oprah and Ricki Lake have ruined the health of our Country by promoting obesity as a "positive body image". All I'm trying to do is stave off health issues as long as possible by working out and staying thin.
  27. 2 points
  28. 2 points
    I have had tremendous success with oxidizing walnut with vinegar and steel wool. This was my attempt:
  29. 2 points
    So far today I’ve masked off the pup cavities to paint them. andctest fitted the bridges in case there was too much swelling from the colour application. plus, it’s nice to see some hardware against the final colour. I’m thinking of using wooden control knobs on this. I’ve used them before and found them pretty but slippy, so if I make some I’ll be adding rubber O rings for grip.
  30. 2 points
    Aye, aye, Cap'n Sir And so to the back and neck carve. I'm probably about half way through that so far. As I've mentioned before, I finish the neck profile off once the guitar is finished and fully strung up - yes, I know. I'm weird like that - but there's still a bit of bulk to take off to get to my preferred softish 'V' profile before that stage. After just a few minutes with a spokeshave, most of the carve has been done using micro plane blades, just held in gloved hands like a scraper. The towelling underneath is to stop any dints on the top (you see, I do sometimes take notice of your gems of advice, @Prostheta ) - you can see it's been used for many times for past staining jobs. Based on the fact that a number of my staining jobs are red ink, it has the unfortunate look of the results of a serious router/finger incident! At this stage, I tend to do a lot of air-guitar playing I've got some more bulk to take out at the heel / body transition, but the thumb anchor points and 24th fret access feel fine so far. You can see why I took impressions earlier of where the hidden weight relief chambers are! Breaking through at this stage of the process would definitely spoil my day Total weight so far is spot on 4lbs - about 4oz lighter than my previous build. Having a bash at making my own wood knobs - which will save 2-3oz over the brass ones I previously used - a final 5 1/2 lbs weight should at least be within reach
  31. 2 points
  32. 2 points
    Well I have plenty of facial hair for the both of us. Ok. More progress. Did some final sanding and scraping then masked off the ash. Put on a couple of coats of brown stain. This was a water based stain so raised the grain a little. flatted that back before doing a coat of Amber. this has a very subtle fade so the nearer to the neck the more amber there is barely noticeable but I think it adds something. Photo just after the first brown coat. a then the first coat of finishing oil went on I’ve done another since and plan on doing six for a satin finish.
  33. 2 points
    Son of groot made into a guitar.
  34. 2 points
    I bet that made you fill your pants.
  35. 2 points
    I decided to put the same demarcation feature under the headstock plate. I cut some maple and ebony veneer offcuts: Then glued and clamped them under a decently thick piece of sapele: For the fretboard, I did the side dots, then filled the fret slots with a mixture of epoxy and macassar dust: Once that was set and the edges sanded down, it was time to glue the fretboard on In the meantime, the pickups have arrived
  36. 2 points
    Been kind of slow work the last couple of weeks. A lot of snow and really cold weather don't really get you to excited to work in an unheated shop. But I have managed to get some progress done. Here is a little sneak peak of the progress hopefully I can add some more pictures of it during the week.
  37. 2 points
    I always thought I was a master of bra removal until I tried to remove one from a girl with *ahem* "generous" chesticles. That thing was like cracking a safe. I ended up having to drop the straps off her shoulders and pull it down to her waist where things were "slimmer" to get those hooks to cooperate.
  38. 2 points
    Just like some women I've known.... SR
  39. 2 points
    Norriss your a star, thats perfect. I did a quick sketch last night to see how it worked out but I only got the outside strings based on my other basses but I wasn't sure if they were equally spaced centre to centre but your pic is great so now I can get on with the first cut, don't know what to use yet for the D and G slots as luthier tools are expensive for this type of work. Cheers
  40. 2 points
    A router table in the kitchen?! I LOVE IT
  41. 2 points
    For me it depends on whether or not Im doing binding or not but I almost always cut slots first. No Binding 1) I cut fret slots according to calculations I do in a my drawing program allowing for a few thousandths of an inch for material loss during radius sanding. I do this on a squared fretboard. 2) I cut the board down and taper it close to the final size leaving roughly 1-16th inch on the sides. 3) Install any inlay. 4) Radius the board 5) I make sure the bottom of the board is sanded perfectly flat. I do this by attaching a 15" x 1" x 2" maple down the center of the fretboard with double sided tape and I and it on a piece of flat milled aluminum with 220 paper attached to it. The maple board keeps the pressure across the length of the board consistent. This insures I have no gaps between the neck and board. I find it a good step to take, especially when mating maple to maple. I also make sure the top of my neck is dead flat. 6) Glue the board to the neck. 7) I use a bottom bearing router bit and trim the fretboard flush to the neck. 8) Install frets. 9) Carve the neck. With Binding 1) I cut fret slots. When I'm doing binding it doesn't matter if the slots are a bit too deep so I just cut them a bit deeper. 2) I cut the board down to close to size and attach it to a fretboard template I have that is 0.058" smaller on each side than my neck template to allow for binding thickness. 3) Install my binding. I usually use 0.060 wide binding. The two thousandths of an inch overhang on each side allows me to scrape it flush once its glued to the neck. 4) Install any inlay. 5) Radius the board. 6) I make sure the bottom of the board is sanded flat. 7) Glue the board to the neck. I use locating pins so it doesn't slip around. 8) Install frets. 9) Carve the neck. As far as calculating depth. I lay everything out in a drawing program so I can get calculate depth. You only have to do this once for whatever fretwork size you're using. I started calculating like this after the first time I had to fill large gaps under the fret tangs on a maple board. Using this method I've never had to go back and deepen slots (so far) and I get minimal gaps under my tangs. Here is an example.
  42. 2 points
    Small progress today. Cut the recesses for the bridges. These need to sit a little lower to account for the action. I thought about making a template and routing but in the end I drilled the front side then chiselled out the rest. Nice snug fit.
  43. 2 points
    If it helps, I'm making a LP Jr and was doing my neck angle calculations last week. The fretboard & frets will sit about 7mm above the body plane - "top of rectangle" in Prostheta's diagram. The TOM wraparound bridge sits about 20mm off the deck to allow for a bit of adjustment, meaning the opposite side of the triangle is 20-7 = 13mm. The neck joins at fret 20 (and unfortunately I don't have my notebook to hand) so the hypotenuse of the triangle is the distance from there to full scale. This worked out to an angle of approx 3.5° The easy way to do it is to find a block of wood 7mm high to represent the fretboard + fret, another 20mm high to represent the bridge and fix them to the guitar in the correct place with masking tape. Then use a sliding bevel, setting against the vertical face where the neck will join and laying it across the wood blocks - there's your angle (which I will cut into the neck tenon) Edit: like this...
  44. 2 points
    I went to The Guitar Show in Birmingham for lots of inspiration this weekend. It was nice to check out some independent builders and have a few chats. I've also ordered my templates, so I'm waiting for them to arrive before cracking on with the body. It was basically neck weekend... Inlay test cuts: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr The faceplate isn't actually glued on yet. I'll do that next weekend, followed by truss rod routing. I need to get the inlay drawings finished and cut out too.
  45. 2 points
    A bit more done today. Bevel done bar a little scraping and started the tummy cut. Then I moved on the fix my slippage with the router. Basically trimmed the round hole square and fitted a piece of maple that matched as well as I find. Still needs re-routing but should be almost invisible when done. I did also finish up my control cavity cover using this oddly figured but if maple, stained the same brown that the body top will be. It’s a little lighter in real life I’ve also started marking out my bridge positions, ready to start routing as I need to recess them to get my action right. This could be tricky as I want them to fit snug in rounded recesses. I think I drill the ends to get the radius then chisel out the rest. The router might be overkill for this!
  46. 2 points
  47. 2 points
    Right then! Made some progress today. This in between finishing off another jazz bass and a corvette. The body is coming along. Mostly been laying things out and deciding if what my templates say look right in the flesh. Mostly yes so here I’ve marked out the bevel. Then cut the trussrod channel and drilled the access hole. Part router part chisels. Bit tricky but lots of double checking saw me through. Final job for today was marking up the neck pocket. I tend to do this based on the neck rather than template for the best fit. Funky laser fun times! I’ll probably end up casting a mould for this and then route using that. Plan is for a 21mm pocket so the fretboard sits above the body. That will mean recessing the bridges but that was the plan all along. Onwards!
  48. 2 points
    Despite having loads of guitar stuff planned for last weekend, I spent most of it doing THIS for my brother: Untitled by S K, on Flickr I made a template from the sink and then routed out the oak worktop. The drainage grooves were a NIGHTMARE. They needed a shallow degree of fall-away, which I incorporated with a jig, but everything shifted for the first cut; we had to duplicate the kicked line on the opposite end, to make it look like a deliberate feature I'll stick to microbiology. Scarf joints usually scare me, so I made a jig/brace to hold them. There are also two screws, using just the points to keep the wood in place. Untitled by S K, on Flickr I cut the fingerboard taper in too, and routed for adding binding BEFORE gluing it to the neck: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr After looking at planes for a while, I figured it made sense to buy a vintage model off eBay and try to restore it. I picked this Record no.5 jack plane (1931-195x) up for the same price as a new Irwin Record model. It was in pretty bad shape, with a crappy plastic handle (no rosewood or beech here), tonnes of rust, and a ruined paintjob. Untitled by S K, on Flickr I cleaned the rust away, stabilised the surface, and repainted. I also lapped and polished the sides. The handle needs a little more shaping, smoothing and drilling before it's ready. Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  49. 2 points
    This one on the other hand was all about cleaning up compound curves. That involves a ton of sanding and touching and feeling and peering at the shape at various angles and light angles....all for subtle changes that don't show up in photos all that well. SR
  50. 2 points
    This is one of my offset bases. The baseplate of my Makita RT0701C's fixed base bolts onto this through the hole in the large end. The knob allows me to tension the router into the workpiece whilst I guide the wet end around the workpiece with more control. It keeps it perpendicular and depending on whether you place the knob in front or behind the cutting edge, you can vary the sort of control you have. Difficult to describe, because it's such a tactile thing. You know when you're in control.