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  1. 6 points
    After a bit more leveling, yet still matte, I had to have a few in the sunlight. This is closer to actual color...but still a bit hot from the direct sunlight. SR
  2. 6 points
  3. 6 points
    In the bright sunlight. And with the first coat of Tru-Oil. SR
  4. 5 points
    I just like the way a burst focuses the eye. Did I screw it up? SR
  5. 4 points
    Routed the neck pocket and neck pu cavity... and determined the hipshot bridge position and drilled the string-through holes: Then the binding channel was routed. Specially for this task I've built this simple router lift jig. It's required to get a vertical / perpendicular channel at the curve of the "droptopped" arm rest. Glued the binding with acetone: Scraped the binding flush and rewarded myself with a look at the wetted topwood.
  6. 4 points
    Been a while since I posted progress. Life got in the way a little (work, vacation, stuff). Also, spent a bunch of time building jigs, which slowed some of our progress. But, we have been making progress, and I've just been derelict in my duty to post updates. So the last thing I posted about was the truss rod channel. Since then... Trimmed the fretboard to final width, and trimmed the headstock to final shape using the new router/shaper setup. Cut out the fretboard, radiused and cut fret slots. Bound the fretboard with ivory colored ABS binding using the acetone melt-and-adhere approach. We got a little melty goodness on the edges of the binding after installation, but nothing that a little sanding and scraping didn't take care of. Considered and decided against trying to inlay Les Paul style markers, and instead cut clay dots, and installed them. The "soft" clay dots and the open-pored wenge conspired to give us less than perfectly circular dots, but we decided we are happy with them nonetheless. To give it a little personality, I added a simple inlay at the 12th fret that turned out pretty good. Put the template on the body and trimmed to final profile, as well as routing the control cavity and the wiring channel. Yes - we used the masking tape and CA glue method. I know the 3M tape sentiment is strong in these parts, but in this case, we used what we had on hand. Besides, I've never had any issues with the masking tape, so... That's where we are at this point. Fretting is next.
  7. 3 points
    Hallo everybody, I've been following the project guitar forums for quite a while now as "silent reader" and decided to register a few weeks ago. In short, it is high time to introduce myself... how could this be done better as presenting my recent build? To my background: Sebastian, 31 years old, coming from germany, so please excuse my poor language (and do not hesitate to correct me...). I have started to build electric basses 2 years ago. As most of us, meanwhile I'm completely obsessed. This is my first guitar and it is dedicated to my son born this year. So it started with two peaces of mahagoni, properly jointed and glued together. The body shape (and the complete guitar) is a design by my own: Roughly cut out the body with a japanese saw and then routed along the template. As next I've planed the armrest with my beloved No.4, preparing for a dropped top: Then the electronics cavity has been routed and I slightly chambered the body to reduce weight (approx. 1.7 kg / 3.7lbs at this stage): Regards, Sebastian
  8. 3 points
    Next steps were binding and purflings. To cut the channels with the arm router was an easy task The most difficult part was to cut the channel on the cutaway, because in that position the channel doesn't lay on a plane, but it goes up after the horn and then goes down near to the neck pocket. To achieve it I used this jig with my Makita hand router The channel wasn't perfect, because the radius was too narrow for the jig to work correctly, but after some refining with a chisel it was acceptable. My aim was to do a flamed maple binding and a four parts purfling: ebony/golden mop/ebony/maple. Instead of using Zipflex for the central purfling, I decided to do it the old way, using teflon strips and then filling the resulting channel with mother of pearl strips. This is what I wanted to achieve: First of all I prepared the binding: I cut the maple 1.5mm thick and 6mm large, then I glued a subtle strip of ebony under, so I could have a black purling line between the maple binding and the ash body Now it was time to glue the purflings, using the teflon strip instead of mother of pearl. Teflon doesn't stick with glue, so later it could be easily removed. Then I glued the binding and when the glue was dry I removed the teflon strip. In the next photo It's possible to see the void channel left by the teflon strips and the golden mother of pearl strips that I used to fill it. As I pressed the strips inside the channel, they break in smaller pieces, so they could adapt to all the curves of the guitar: I only had to cut to perfect size the portion on the horn, because there the radius was too narrow to achieve a good result with this technique. Once inserted in the channel, I glued in position the strips with thin ca glue. Now I only had to sand everything flush. The process was long and tricky but I was really happy with the result!
  9. 3 points
    The strings are on!!! My fretless playing is...entertaining , but it feels and plays ok. I want to lower the slots in the nut a bit more, as I can feel the tension close to the nut. Sounds nice acoustically! Not on the pics is quite some work in drilling and dremeling access routes that needed some tweaking, but so far everything fits nice and snug. I hope to be as lucky with the bulky preamp. I've made the jack plate out of black plexy, same as the pickguard, and will try to make a tr plug/cover today. The side is a bit curved in that spot, about 1mm difference, so I've ground off the rough profile and refined it on sandpaper, then polished dry on some jeans. If I get some rubber, I'll cut it a gasket. My little bridge adjuster with piezzo-in-a-sandwich works with no problems and has nice adjustability, so that experiment officialy worked fine!!! 147 by Goran P, on Flickr 148 by Goran P, on Flickr 149 by Goran P, on Flickr 150 by Goran P, on Flickr 151 by Goran P, on Flickr 152 by Goran P, on Flickr 153 by Goran P, on Flickr 154 by Goran P, on Flickr 155 by Goran P, on Flickr 156 by Goran P, on Flickr 157 by Goran P, on Flickr
  10. 3 points
    "For those that might not have seen my build thread, I built this guitar in memory of my firstborn son Chris who passed away 7 months ago, Feb 18, 2017. He was 24 years old. The guitar has special inlays on the back that represent tattoo's that my son had on his chest and shoulder. A Phoenix (mythological bird) symbol, and an Aries (ram). Chris was an Aries and we both have Phoenix tattoo's on our chests for personal reasons. Also smaller versions of each on fretboard and headstock to match This guitar is named "Phoenix" The model is one of my own designs, called "24 Magnum". Its my 12th build to date, I build in my garage/shop at my home. This model, as with most of my builds, has the following notable features: Neck-through-body construction 3-piece laminate neck (all mahogany) carbon fiber neck reinforcement Specs: 25.5″ scale length 24 stainless steel frets 12″ fretboard radius Genuine South American mahogany ( Swietenia macrophylla ) body and neck Bookmatched, flamed maple top Ebony headstock overlay Natural “faux” binding Macassar Ebony Fretboard Original Floyd Rose Tremolo w/ tungsten sustain block Custom white mother-of-pearl phoenix 12th fret and Aries headstock inlays Custom white mother-of-pearl in ebony Aries symbol inlay on back Custom paua abalone and select blue paua Phoenix inlay on back Planet Waves 3×3 locking tuning machines Seymour Duncan pickups – Custom Custom (TB-11) bridge, and Sentient neck 5-way Oak Grigsby super switch (n, n-split, n/br, br-split, br) CTS pots, orange drop caps Nitrocellulose Lacquer The photo of my son Chris is included to show the tattoo's on his chest and shoulder that are the inspiration for the inlays....
  11. 3 points
    Who are you people? Is this a bad dream I'm having?
  12. 3 points
    Thanks very much for the friendly welcome! To be honest, in first line I just had no motivation to make another template for routing the cavity.. and... some of these artistic CNC made chambered bodies influenced me so that i tried to make one by my own with the given simple possibilities. Yes, the wood shown on the first pic is just the template. Got it from the hardware store as a scrap piece for little money... but yeah, it is looking cool, too. 8-) I'm working as an electrical engineer where there's no place for art. So i have to live out my other half after work You guessed right: drop top over forearm relief! As the top wood I've chosen a piece of "flamed pearwood" (don't know the correct term, but you can imagine what i mean?): First the two peaces had to be planed to thickness and jointed together (did i mention my No.4? ;-) )Then i've cutted out the body shape and routed some channels to make the drop top bending easier: I've bend the top over the edge using water, heat gun, and a pack of clamps. After that the top has been glued to the body with tidebond (apologies for missing photography). OK, sorry guys, you know, it is especially the inner values that count: Regards, Sebastian
  13. 3 points
    Managed to get a quite decent photo of the glow effect on this one.
  14. 2 points
    Then I've designed and made a pickguard and trussrod cover out of a aluminium sheet (1.5mm). Brought it into shape with a fretsaw, files and sandpaper. Lastly I've created longitudinal sanding marks on it: Time to bring together all the parts and to verify if everything fits together as required (it did ): Ready to go!
  15. 2 points
    Turn, turn, turn... it was time to do some pickup winding. For that job I use an old sewing machine housed in plywood box. The rotations are counted with a bicycle speedometer (setup such that 1 turn equals 1 meter). Potted the single coil in front simply with CA glue. Potting of the humbucker coils outstanding on this photo: Potted, mounted and secured with tape: ... and chrome covered: T-Style Neck single coil: - AWG42 - AlNiCo5 - 9000 windings ~ 6.3kOhm Bridge humbucker: - AWG42 -AlNiCo5 - 5700/4300 windings ~ 4.5/3.4kOhm - the stronger coil is used for the SC split
  16. 2 points
    Work has been crazy and I've been focusing on race training recently, so I didn't have chance for guitar things until last weekend. I did a few things, mainly inolving making the neck profile playable; I had to trim a lot of meat off and level it out. Of course I didn't take any photos of the finished neck, because I'm an idiot. Untitled by S K, on Flickr Black base stain: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Sanded back: Untitled by S K, on Flickr And PURPLE added: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Hopefully I can finish staining the back and get some grain filling/sanding sealer work done next weekend. I need to figure out clear options too - I have a few cans of 2K spray, but I'm scared of that... even with a decent respirator, goggles and a Tyvek suit. PS. I might actually get this finished soon! The 2016 thread can retire.
  17. 2 points
    Congrats. Sucks how most of the Country is so vulnerable to the economy,which seems to be vulnerable to the whims of the associated press and the ravings of a dumbass in the White House.
  18. 2 points
    WHEW!!!!!!!!! ducked the axeman again. But sadly- folks I have worked with for over two decades did not, so, my happiness is short lived. now if you'll excuse me I am going to go collapse.
  19. 2 points
    Well, It's done! I've included a few more pics, as I'm a horrible photographer, so I've tried both indoors and the outdoors, we had a nice sunny day. Hope you like it!!! I'll try to get my bass-playing friend I've made a bass for a few years back to try it out, so that I can hear what's it really supposed to sound like 158 by Goran P, on Flickr 159 by Goran P, on Flickr 160 by Goran P, on Flickr 161 by Goran P, on Flickr 162 by Goran P, on Flickr 163 by Goran P, on Flickr 164 by Goran P, on Flickr 165 by Goran P, on Flickr 166 by Goran P, on Flickr
  20. 2 points
    Today sunday, god day, I've been working on the flying-v. I cut the body shape with the jigsaw and route the contour with the router. I made as well the cavities of each wing of the guitar. After that I cut the scarf joint of the neck and headstock with a japanesse saw. Then I used a special jig for this purpose with very good results. Tomorrow I'll glue the two pieces and deal with the corners of the two cavities, that is no an easy matter and I will try with japanesse saw and two pieces of wood in order to guide the blade of the japanesse saw. The guitar is getting shape and coming to life.
  21. 2 points
    This is the guitar I was trying to find a work around for an action problem I had grown tired of dealing with. After I had removed some wood from the neck pocket and tremolo route, I decided that I really did not like how the guitar looked. Really I had just watched the Crimson Guitars video on Shou Sugi-Ban finish method and I thought it was an interesting method of finishing ( Read: Looks FUCKING Cool and fun ). Being the methodical person I am went and looked at how it was really done, as Ben's videos on the subject aren't as serious as I would like. I watched this video as well as reading what I could find over a couple days online. On how to properly attempt the finish. It is a modified Oil Finish and you must use your oil to build up past the charred wood that brushing did not remove. I usually apply 3-4 coats oil to a guitar before applying wax and has been good for me in the past. This finish took around 11-12 oil applications. before my wiping rag stopped picking up black residue. I do like the finish method. I would like to see if color can be applied after charring and add to the technique, or enhance what appears. I have seen other builders sand the surface smooth prior to oiling, but in my opinion, the texture is important to the technique. Otherwise, the Japanese would sand their cedar siding prior to oiling. I took these photos this evening when I got home from work so framing and colors aren't perfect. Mainly to give an idea of that the finish looks like up close as you can zoom fairly well into these.
  22. 2 points
    Hi! First of all, great first project! I especially like that you have worked around the tools you don't have by using alternative material that works well with the tools that you do. Regarding your problem with the depth of the neck pocket, one way of uniformly deepening it without router would be to score the inside outline of the pocket with scalpel, exacto knife or a chisel, and to use the plywood to your advantage once again Use the chisel to peel off a layer of plywood or two, that gets you reasonably close to desired depth. Some riflers and a good flat double cut file should make the surface nice and flat, and/or get you to the exact depth. Hope this helps!
  23. 2 points
    It can still be done with a drill and chisels if you take care as you go. You already have the neck pocket and pickup cavities cut out, so all you have to do is match what is already there. @Andyjr1515 doesn't use a router much when creating cavities - have a look at his thread to see how he routes without a router Hondo has more street cred than the "Torch" I had. I remember getting the shock of my life when I chipped the corner off it one day and found plywood poking out underneath the paint. I dunno what I as expecting to find underneath the surface of a sub-$200 guitar??
  24. 2 points
    Made the brass parts and finished the nut, installed the inserts, seems OK! Dismantled it and added another coat of oil, wax is probably next. Still to do is the jack plate, it will be black, and perhaps some sort of plug for the TR access. I think cables will not be fun, but so far so good... I've decided against the adjustable nut, it should be OK as it is Hope you like it! 1-IMG_20171008_164709 by Goran P, on Flickr 2-IMG_20171008_174412 by Goran P, on Flickr 3-IMG_20171008_182413 by Goran P, on Flickr
  25. 2 points
    The body carve and shape is pretty much finished. In the back, I added a scoop at the lower cutout for good upper-fret access and managed to cut a sliver of the camphor laurel for the control cover: And yes - needing new glasses or not, the string bar IS supposed to be on a slant The fretboard's not glued yet but the fretmarker positions are better (don't worry about the 3rd - it is 1mm smaller but is indeed in line with the rest): The top is coming out nicely. With the final gloss coats this is going to look really nice And Tim's sent me the profile measurements of his favourite player: Every guitar has its own feel, but my aim is to try to get in familiar territory for Tim's first playing experience.
  26. 2 points
    I've decided on a new build... This time not an original design but one that over the years I've started to admire. The body will be slightly offset as to not be a direct copy and take a bit of influence from my first build through to my second. Here's the specs: 5 Piece maple and black walnut neck. 25.5" Scale. Indian rosewood fretboard. (Provided I can get the slight twist and bow out... If not, possibly maple again.) Poplar body. (Maybe with a 5 piece maple/black walnut "strip" down the middle, or possibly a curly maple top I have stored, thoughts?) Pearl pickguard. Humbucker in the bridge, Possibly an EMG 81. Never been a fan of active pickups but willing to give them a go again. Single coil in the neck, Probably some kind of EMG if I go active. Graphite nut. Transparent black finish if no figured top or purple if figured. Either oiled or an acrylic urethane high gloss if I feel brave enough. Locking tuners. Standard 6 string fixed bridge. 10.8MM bridge spacing. 42MM nut. 12" radius. Here's the plans so far: I'll get a picture of the woods later, not that there's anything particularly special about them, they're all pretty common looking specimens of the woods they are... But wood is wood and wood is good! Mike.
  27. 2 points
    POW! from Highland Brewing in Asheville, NC> Triple IPA, limited release, 10.5% ABV. The alcohol is well hidden- this is very smooth- Simcoe Lupulin Powder- it has that west coast type malty/piney bitter backbone- but this is probably the smoothest Highland I have tried. Not your fathers mountain ale-from Small Town Brewery- out of Illinios- a fruit//vegatable beer by definition- 5% abv- this tasted like mountain dew with a kick. My daughter bought it to try it- so I grabbed the bottle, poured some and tried it myself. Pretty rank stuff an elf from out west sent me some nice goodies this past week- this little tid bit was very nice indeed- ODell out of Colorado Myrcenary Double IPA. 9.3% very smooth, fruity and just dern delicious.
  28. 2 points
    Yep. Fuckers. I'm too lazy at this point to upload everything to Imgur. I was searching for info on a Floyd install, saw a good link, clicked on it, and it brought me here. To my Own (old) post. Hilarious. Like I reached back in time and grabbed myself.
  29. 2 points
    Photobucket swallowed him whole. He is in the belly of the beast now. I've been on The Gear Page the whole time. Figured I'd drop you losers, buy a nice Hawaiian shirt and hang out with the classy bastids.
  30. 2 points
    Definitely... And after years of doing this, when most businesses find they need to "expand" premises, etc to progress, I'm actually making some of my best (favourite) work now without having to go through (or think about) all that so it can't be too bad. I'm happy and so are those who own my guitars
  31. 2 points
    So I completely forgot to mention I quit my job Sunday? Anyway. Texted my boss and said I wasn't coming back,then promptly turned my phone off until Monday at the ATT store after I changed my number. I'm going to just do random welding for a while. Eventually I'll start looking for a job that actually has benefits. The next year or two is going to be pretty sweet. I'm going to get back in shape and do some trail hiking I think. Live out of a backpack for a month in Colorado next summer...stuff like that.
  32. 2 points
    So, Knightro, did you like the samples? Test photo today. Still need to level / crown setup, etc.
  33. 2 points
    Before I break out any new beers, I need to catch up the new beers of the last month. First up, Lagunitas Imperial Stout. Robust coffee and dark chocolate and very tasty! Then Firestone Walker Leo Versus Ursus, next up in the series--Adversity. This was a somewhat tropical double that was a little bit crisp and a light malt and a quite decent flavor. I almost bought some more yesterday, but it only had a week left on its best by date. Next was a Texas brew, that tasted like most Texas brews, Chupahopra. Very drinkable, not especially memorable. From the always good Founders, Redankulous Imperial Red IPA. Lots of dank flavor here, this one is big and memorable. And from Tallgrass Brewing Company in Kansas, Buffalo Sweat oatmeal cream stout. Very smooth and tasty, good coffee and dark chocolate and only barely sweet. Very good stuff. SR
  34. 2 points
    Got the control chamber cut out and the back wings glued on: Now they're glued, it's easier to see the back carve contour routes: I wiped the pair of builds over with a damp cloth. Once they are properly carved and finished, I think they're going to be a nice looking pair of guitars
  35. 2 points
    On the bench at the moment... Includes the custom 8-string multiscale KR3 I've spoken of before. The 3-piece Wenge and Maple (thru-body) neck with Marblewood fretboard is ready to glue Swamp Ash wings to before a figured Buckeye Burl top goes on... And that leftie Archtop Strat-body that I was last seen working on last month... SHOCK BLUE!!
  36. 2 points
    You absolute savage! 'Master luthiers' everywhere will be pulling their hair out!
  37. 2 points
    Thanks guys. Lost about 86 pounds so far, and really not trying to lose more at the moment. Still eating a keto diet, but with a beer here and there, and I've upped my daily calories a bit. Just been so busy and running around the weight is still falling off... Last night I had a local beer that I enjoy quite a bit when it's available. Straight to Ale's Stout at the Devil. It's an oatmeal stout infused with sea salt and caramel. Pretty tasty. And it has great can art:
  38. 2 points
    One more for good measure. This is the sister set that I pulled out this morning. Black and blue soaks followed by a pull in yellow. This is a much thinner billet so the soaked colors will likely be more drastic inside than the one above. Chris
  39. 2 points
    A few minutes in the shop late yesterday...routed the ledge, marked the angle and chiseled away most of the bulk, then refined some more with scrapers...I love scrapers! Last shot got both of my feet in it, so...showing one half of the wing 1-IMG_20170917_180550 by Goran P, on Flickr 2-IMG_20170917_180556 by Goran P, on Flickr 3-IMG_20170917_193458 by Goran P, on Flickr 4-IMG_20170917_194233 by Goran P, on Flickr 5-IMG_20170917_195819 by Goran P, on Flickr 6-IMG_20170917_202405 by Goran P, on Flickr 7-IMG_20170917_204851 by Goran P, on Flickr
  40. 2 points
    It was interesting to see how much the zebra wood looked like sapele when its stripes were dyed over. Following the schedule I sanded the amber back with 400 and then went all the way through the micromesh grits. Every square inch of this face flips in changing light angles. SR
  41. 2 points
    Frame is now together and square.
  42. 1 point
    Well, you mentioned it being dedicated to your newborn son (awesome idea, and congrats!), so I'm going for 'Feb 22' - his birthday maybe? Judging by the quality of this project so far though, it might be 'build no. 222'!
  43. 1 point
    Some progress - I've been sanding and sanding (and occasionally scraping ) for a while now, drilled jack hole which I hope will work nicely with some cable movement with swiveling of the piezzo preamp. Other point of worry is the piezzo connecting hole, which might be too cramped in actual assembly. Will re-drill if needed. Big components for such a small space... I've also drilled ferule holes, 9mm, and they are 9.5, so I'll probably touch them up with my Dremel, which came back from the Dr. with a new rotor....could try to press fit, but I don't think the wood could compress that much. Started with tung oil, one coat to highlight all my sanding mistakes, and corrected (I hope) them all. Then another coat, and prepared the wax paste. Pure beeswax + thinner + roughly 15% paraffin for some added hardness. I need to route the bridge channel now, and make the brass parts. After that, I think another 2 coats of oil, and then wax. 1-IMG_20170928_184421 by Goran P, on Flickr 4-IMG_20170929_201325 by Goran P, on Flickr 3-IMG_20170929_200250 by Goran P, on Flickr 2-IMG_20170929_192413 by Goran P, on Flickr 5-IMG_20170930_164916 by Goran P, on Flickr 6-IMG_20170930_164928 by Goran P, on Flickr 7-IMG_20171001_153223 by Goran P, on Flickr
  44. 1 point
    There is no better dedication for your build than to your new son. Congratulations and welcome Thats a very nice bend I have to say. Ive done a couple that thick and didnt get such a nice joint
  45. 1 point
    I got lucky in regards to retinal tears....so far at least. I don't like the sound of pretty much any type of treatment on my eyeballs. I used to have a coworker whose wife had severe macular degeneration and had to get injections in her eyes periodically. Brrrrrrrr. It would explain a lot....and give me a good excuse whenever I'm found staring at things my wife would rather I would not. SR
  46. 1 point
    Methinks you take great delight in being a half-step sideways of conventional Andy. And I'm familiar with that sentiment. SR
  47. 1 point
    Ok, just trial an error to setup the notch heights on the upright?
  48. 1 point
    Damn man, you did indeed lose some weight...about a third grader's worth. Well done. SR
  49. 1 point
    The tenon has areas just below the surface of the body...mandolin dimensions don't always translate to quitar build techniques. I filled the end of the tenon with epoxy and the leveled the tenon with epoxy and router chips from the neck pocket. And started fitting the top until I ran out of weekend. And right about here I realized that between the taper of the neck and the overhang of the fretboard, it is going to be tricky to get a nice fit to the neck and actually get it on the neck in position to be glued up. I'm going to have to think on that one for a bit.... What did you do? SR
  50. 1 point
    I knocked the rough stuff off with a portable belt sander. Then I fixed 60 grit to the table top and flattened the gluing surface. I mmarked pencil lines across the surface and sanded till they are gone. Mildly Strat shaped and mildly offset. Note the package of 3M 7X sandpaper. I have been a big fan of Norton 3X. I had to make a sandpaper run and they hjad this stuff instead. Since it claimed 7x life and no clogging I decided to give it a try. That is some good stuff! It truly does not clog. The dust blows off as you sand if you have a fan on it. The backing has a coating of some tacky latex like stuff that makes it easy to grip or used like I did, it did not slide off the table. I did not have to spray adhesive on the back. And the backing does not tear up or wear out; It's quite heavy. This just replaced Norton for me. Almost ready to play. SR
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