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Voting for March 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - VOTE HERE!

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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/02/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    As @Norris said, planing the surfaces flat is the first thing to do. Opening the mouth for strength is another good idea. If you think about howling, there's two parts: "Ho" with the mouth open and "wl" with the jaws more closed. @ScottR's idea of using glue and gauze or other sheer fabric is also very recommendable especially in delicate areas. The idea is similar to laminating fiberglass. When you've got the thickness right, laminate the fabric to the inside before cutting the hole. Then chamfer the inside edges to make the top look thinner and to hide any sticking thread ends.
  2. 2 points
    btw yall... so after a cyclone of social media posts I made... culminating in the post on the progressive facebook page... they reached out to me and it's a miracle -they were able to speak to the liable part and are falling all over themselves to get my vehicle fixed. birds not in the hand yet but looking very different.
  3. 1 point
    That's great news! A longer screw with a loose enough pilot hole might help strengthening the horn enough. I was also thinking about a long threaded insert but that would require drilling even more wood away. 4 mm may be the thickest you can run through the strap button, in that thickness the longest available flat/dome cap screws are at least 60 mm long.
  4. 1 point
    sounds like a good approach. if it were me I'd just drill slightly smaller than the threads and put some poxy on the threads after doing a dry install. could make a wood plug, screw into it... then glue into horn. just 2 cents.
  5. 1 point
    I loath the industry. There's a hundred things I could say...but they all just support that comment. Perhaps this pandemic will make them all go under and we can restart the industry from scratch, properly, having learned from eons of man hours of past history. SR
  6. 1 point
    that's crazy! wonder how they did that! crazy brits.
  7. 1 point
    First post here, hopefully won’t be the last; One of my first projects I gave up on back in like 2016 which I am currently redoing. After a few hours of sanding I got all the paint off... Waiting on some parts gfs factory buyout body gfs Humbucker sized dream 90 bridge gfs Tremolo Fender 50’s single coil neck MIM Strat Neck “Tortoise Shell” Pickguard material
  8. 1 point
    Apparently, in Great Britain all the stones are the same size and weight.....and have a great respect for tea time. SR
  9. 1 point
    I de-glossed the neck with 1800 grit micromesh There is still a little bit to do here and there, but feeling a bit tired I'm giving myself the afternoon off
  10. 1 point
    Ughhh tried out the green nitro last night.... don t know... I m not completely sold... what do you guys say? Keep it or change it?
  11. 1 point
    Humor rhymes with tumor and humour with tumour for us who have been taught the British spelling. If you've got both, laughing through your tears helps you continue living. @MiKro doesn't that young fellow seem to have a thing about us more mature farts? Bowing to one, mooning the other...
  12. 1 point
    Hi PG Squad! I've been a long time lurker on this forum, and with quarantine keeping me at home I finally dove into my first ever build. Here are the specs: Shape: Solid body inspired roughly by Fender offsets, specifically the Meteora Body wood: Alder Scale: 25,5inch Neck: Bolt-On Maple Fretboard: 22 Fret Rosewood, inlays tbd Bridge: Fender tremelo Pickups: Fender 57'/62' reissue Controls: Standard s-type Tuners: Gotoh locking I started by designing the guitar in Fusion: Printing templates: And getting my alder body blank glued up: Ultimately if I have something playable at the end of this I'll consider it a huge success. I've seen the community on PG help several others through their first builds and hopefully they'll be as gracious with me when I undoubtedly have questions!
  13. 1 point
    Finally got sound out of this thing after little bit of struggle and troubleshooting with electronics...yeah it is a mess down there. Difference with normal pickups Fishman Fluences have 3 wires / pickup more to control the different voices and coil splits. To my surprise I got the wiring diagram correct the first time which I am pleased. Thanks @mistermikev for helping discussion on this. This was also the first time for me to execute and plan a whole wiring scheme. The first plug-in was not successful. No sound what so ever. After troubleshooting with multimeter the reason was poorly clamped dupont connector on the battery wire. I settle upon using dupont connectors to help changes in the future if I want to change the wiring regarding the pickup voice select and switch positions. Here are some pickup after all the setup done. String action set (Truss rod, nut filed, bridge saddle height) and intonated. Still some work to be made. Control cavity plate needs some work and a truss rod cover to be made. A waterslide logo design etc.
  14. 1 point
    Holy crap! Koa attack! Or is that insane claro that looks like koa?! Man you gotta warn us before that.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    Time has passed since the last update. At last the body seems to be hard enough for the final wet sand with 2000 grit and then waxing. During the cure time I finished my pickup rings. First attempt was to stain those black and then coat of Z-Poxy finishing resin. Well those looked really nice but I did not get the resin to leave a smooth surface and had to sand those back and forth and everytime sanded through the epoxy somewhere. So I quit that approach and ended up using a Maston 100 (332) spray varnish for the finish on these. I decided that 1 coat is sufficient for me. I am now in a point I am giving up on the look I wanted to get this finished. So ended up buying the spray varnish. I had no place warm enough to spray so decided to build my diy spray booth at the office buiding garage. Professional isn't it?
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