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  1. 9 likes
    True!... a sharp gouge is just fun. I've been carving the heel, that was a quick job. I will try to make kinda volute in the heel... Still needs some refining, but the big part is done. Sorry for the square neck profile, I need to clear out the surroundings before proceed with the neck carving. Have a nice weekend!
  2. 6 likes
    the part I guess I am still not sure about is the bottom of the fretboard between where the neck angle starts and the bridge- its almost like (in my mind) the bottom of the fretboard would be flat until that neck angle- and then it would (if it was to be snug to the body and not overhang the body) have to angle forming a triangle from the neck angle to the bridge (I think?)- very interesting. you have my interest peaked big time on this. As far as your body radius- have you sorted out how you will do that? I had to do a 25" radius in a Turner Model One copy I did a few years ago- here is a pic- I laid out mdf board- held a 25" piece of string down at a center point off the board- took a pen and swiped the radius across the boards. made a "ghetto style extremely large" fretboard radius jig and went to town. that was a ton of fun. and clean up was easy with a little sanding and it came out great. (the jig was turned 90 degrees before use )
  3. 5 likes
    There was one fret which left a bit of a skid mark on the treble side, but any evidence has since been obliterated with the board being re-radiused. Back on to the neck, the heel has been reshaped to eliminate the beefy transition and the overall profile tidied up to remove any unevenness. There were a couple of lumps at various points that I've managed to level out, and narrowing down the sides has improved the overall slenderness of the neck without sacrificing thickness: The difference in heel transition is best illustrated here, with these obligatory before and after shots: And the black epoxy has also been scraped level and the logo finalised, ready to be re-sealed under clear.:
  4. 5 likes
    Exploder MS8 progress! Body rough cut and cleaned up in the drum sander: Routing the body outline. First step uses a spiral upcut bit with guide bushing, second is a very short template bit, final is a downshear flush trim. Some dude is in my shop, cutting out neck pockets. It worked out ok. Roughing the pickup and control cavities: Routing complete, now on a boatload of sanding. Next time: on to the neck. Thanks for looking!
  5. 5 likes
    Let's put some engineer theories to practice... ^^ According to the clamping pressure scheme that Prostheta shared earlier, and making use of a 40mm thick caul with the shape of the body, every clamp should cover about 80mm diameter around it, so I've made a circled template and start covering all the surface, marking the exact location of each clamp. That was cool because you don't have to spend time figuring where the clamp should be, which makes all the process a lot easier and faster. 27 clamps were needed for this operation. I got a clamp skyline. Hope it's ok, if I get a gap somewhere I will kill myself.
  6. 4 likes
    On another forum, I've titled it, "A Bridge Too Far?" Definitely my most ambitious project yet... Another bass - but the one after this is going to be a 6-string electric! This one is not guaranteed to succeed but, if it does, will be most definitely in the ultra-modern camp. Its for Mick - do you remember the Alembic-like bass that was falling to bits a year or so ago? That was Mick's. Why is it ultra-modern? The shape - front and cross-sectional piezo under acoustic bridge + hidden magnetic pickup (not headless but) headless tuning, hidden hidden controls full-length, integrated fretboard single-cut ultra-slim (1" reducing to nothing) all white(ish) natural finish This is what I mean by the shape - basically Mick's design and an amalgam of some of the more unconventional specialist makers: The fretboard (fretted) will be set into the body, with a touch of 'neck angle' relief to allow for fingernail and pick clearance, but cross-sectionally will be like a 'contact-lens': This is why it might be a bridge too far...
  7. 4 likes
    I've always used the filling rubber (?) (we call it "muñequilla") in circles, but yeah, also gave some passes against the grain direction as you said... This time I've made a more liquid mix and it worked much better, so this is while rubbing... This is how it looks almost dried... And this is after sanding... It looks quite light but everything blends as soon I apply some mineral spirits... I should give another pass but man, that was hard work... it filled the holes at 50%, hope the nitro does the rest. Now it's ready for the nitro finish... sanded, masked and cleaned everything... just need to buy solvent and a brush. Cheers
  8. 4 likes
    Back from a week away but might not have huge amounts of time this week, as have to animate the brain of an addict. Oh what fun. I still haven't posted pictures of the Nuno N3 so thought I should, while the kettle boils. Here we go... Loved building this almost as much as playing it. Pickups are SD hot rodded pair and they suit it perfectly. The Bill & Becky XL500 would have been too shrill for me with the maple fingerboard. They may not as accurate but they sound great.
  9. 4 likes
    Token artsy shot. Test fitting the pickup and bridge hardware. I mentioned right at the head of this thread that I'd be considering fitting an ABM wraparound, however that would have ended up being the single most expensive piece of anything on this instrument. Not even an option at this stage! The scribbling in the neck pocket is from me checking the neck tenon for quality of mating surface on the lower side. This is something that is massively important since the tenon itself is angled, and needs to be perfectly perpendicular to the shoulders. As mentioned, this is needing to be re-cut anyway and brought down to about 1,5-2,0°. Reducing the angle at the shoulders removes material from the fingerboard side, and correspondingly will need the lower face of the tenon to be altered, mostly at the far end.
  10. 4 likes
    Part three: The neck! This was a real pain in the... You know what! It was all done with a Stanley No.7 and a bandsaw. (Apart from the headstock angle... That was my No.4.) Neck side: Truss rod slot cut... In hindsight I probably should have moved the nut slot back so it wasn't directly in line with the nut... Next time I'll try to remember that... It looks like that planing was done badly... I thought so too, but it's straight as... Well my straight edge... It just has a really funky grain and figuring to it that makes it look wobbly. Neck rough cut... So close to test fitting... (And yes the body is like me... A little overweight, but I'm working on it ) I got so carried away with the rest I forgot to take pictures, But one more... Where the neck and body met on the first day, sorry about the quality but... It really is starting to look like a guitar now!!! Low lighting makes everything look kinda yellow but hey... It was a long neck making day and the sun had disappeared by the time I got this taken. There's a LOT more to do, more shaping, more routing and every woodworkers favourite past time... Sanding. But this is it so far, Thank you for taking the time to look at this project! Mike.
  11. 4 likes
    After leveling with the radius beam at 120 grit, we're left with this; Big improvement on what used to be there (at least in my very humble, vanishingly-tiny and insignificant opinion). Before I get too stuck into finishing the radius on the board by sanding through the grits I'll head back to the CNC and quickly cut a new logo for the headstock. Another rapid fire jig required to hold the neck in place - just a couple of threaded inserts underneath two of the tuner holes in a piece of MDF with big bolts passing through. A little piece of masking tape with a pencil mark to indicate where I want the logo to begin: Note the missing 3rd string tuner washer. I nearly lost it on the workshop floor when it fell off while putting the jig together, and I didn't notice it until I took this photo. Luckily managed to find it. The rest of the washers were removed shortly afterwards and bagged up in a ziplock bag for safekeeping. Then off to mix up some black-tinted epoxy and make a mess. This gets scraped level once the epoxy sets leaving behind the black infilled logo in the maple. Usually takes two applications to fill any remaining pin holes in the epoxy that usually form as air bubbles:
  12. 4 likes
    Thanks guys! Ok, so here it is: As I said, not what I was looking for, but still can work I guess.... at least is more ergonomic than the original carving. It still needs some work. I have to remove all the bumps in the mahogany stripe and I wish I can remove also that dark stain in the top, I think it will disappear after some sanding... let's see. Cheers!
  13. 3 likes
    you either think this is sexy- or fugly. either way, I had a chance to play one of these, and I knew immediately after playing it I had to build one. Heavy as hell, big as hell, but there was something about it that just drew me in. I had so much fun building a carl thompson copy a number of years ago- I wanted to build something that required carving. This puppy requires carving alright. creating the basis of my drawn out plans. the lovely 6 string TOM bridge that hipshot built me- thanks to Prostheta for suggesting I give them a ring. I ended up having to slightly increase the butt end of the bass due to the string spacing on this bridge. the 8/4 hondo mahog board that will become the body. ritter uses 3 piece maple for the neck so I will follow suit. body glued up, I will run this in my router thicknessing bed and bring it down to just north of 1.5" thick.
  14. 3 likes
    Last thread was just a feasability study - thanks for all your input guys - it really did help, and I continue to need feedback, as I am still only a four month old in my guitar building phase (but 30 years old in high-end woodworking / composites). I am getting my rough milled basswood body blanks from my luthier tomorrow, and he is working on my custom spec necks so I decided to start a new thread to kickoff these "different" builds. This build thread needed an easier title too, as "Elliptical cross section body for T-formed acrylic" is about as interesting as Chenglish instruction manuals. Look up that thread if you want background info on these builds. Will be posting pics of recent castings in 1/4" acrylic like this one below for a few days, as the color possibilities are endless, given the endless metallic / pearlesecent / borosilicate pigments available now coupled with the masking technique I recently figured out on this stuff. After doing a half dozen or so panels, I will be choosing three to do the first three guitars with. Kind of set on this "Fire" panel for the 2nd one and the gold / silver boro in the "Quilt" pattern as # 1. The dichroic inlay tests went very well too, so the necks will have the appropriate color inlay according to the body panel choice.
  15. 3 likes
    On to fretwork! I've gotten them installed and flush with the fretboard. Installing frets was not as difficult as I had imagined it would be, There are at least two that will need special attention since I got a bit hammer-happy right at the end of the frets and managed to hammer them in to the fretboard a fraction of a millimeter. I still need to bevel them, so that's more jig making but even as it is (Neck un-carved, frets un-bevelled ect.) it's more comfortable feeling than some of the guitars I've played in music shops lol. And after about an hour or so of flushing them... (Could probably have gone faster but at this stage I really don't want to mess things up too bad and make more work for myself down the line... I broke out the CNC for one last job on this which was the truss rod cover. As you can see though, my earlier mistake of truss rod placement has come back to haunt me... I know it will be hidden under the nut but I'll always know it is there... Still maybe a little thick and may need some thicknessing... Won't know until I get it to the point of testing before finishing. But for now a truss rod cover is a truss rod cover... Still needs more sanding ect. but it works. I decided against inlaying this as I really don't think I could've freed the inlay without breaking it as the lettering is so small. (I actually had to make the text bigger to fit my 0.6MM bit, or 0.023622" to you imperial guys!) And finally some rough hardware pics of the body... The pickup rings are from an older guitar I'm re-finishing, The ones for this guitar will be shiny and new! The rest of the hardware will be what's on the guitar, and the blank space is for a 3 way pickup selector switch. I may be keeping that pickup in it (Bridge only, neck is a DiMarzio D-Activator bridge) But I'm not sure. It's a custom wound (By me) few thousand over-wound humbucker but still has a vintage-esque sound to it... Like it's not a metal humbucker at all but still has a decent amount of output. Not sure if it's beaten-up look will work yet but I can always wind another for this guitar if I feel I need to. Just roughly plonked on top... Closer up of the pickup... Pole-pieces are still low from the "ageing" process. And that's all for now. Mike.
  16. 3 likes
    OK - with the concept sorted, it's time to start cutting wood : Don't look at the appalling mess behind the bandsaw. Depending how big the piece of wood is depends whether you get a shot of the mess or the more tidy and ordered part of my cellar-workspace. This bandsaw is the smallest bearing-guided one I could find, but the biggest I could actually physically get into the cellar. I have it on a very neat 'lift and move' wheeled trolley so, where the length is needed (like here), I just foot-pedal lift it onto castor wheels, pull it out of its normal station and twist it round 90 degrees then lower it back onto its fixed feet. Then when it's done, just reverse the operation and pop it back into its (relatively) neat station. Anyway, 10 minutes later we have something that is starting to look much more like a bass!
  17. 3 likes
    Changes were made... After trying to clean up and recover the end of the fretboard it was pretty clear that the side binding wasn't going to survive in a manner that would be usable for the existing shape of the fretboard end. After hours of futzing with it I decided to take a different tack. I came up with an alternate fretboard end shape, ripped off all the bass side binding, reshaped the fretboard end, made a new caul, heated and pre-bent the binding, etc. I was able to use one piece of binding for both the fretboard end and bass side. The glue up became a bit more complicated, but I think it worked out OK. Here's a pic after getting everything scraped clean and sanded up through 12000 grit micro mesh. You can see the original shape of the fretboard penciled in on the fretboard extension. Since this pic I've marked out the board for the side dots. Hopefully this evening after Easter festivities with the fam I'll have time to drill and install the side dots and possibly get the board fretted...
  18. 3 likes
    Hi there, as promised, here are some shots of the (almost) finished instrument. I still need to do the fretjob but I wanted to check if everything was in place. BTW, I had to recess the bridge as it was too high. Need to find a way to be more precise calculating the neck angle. Apart from that, everything else looks good. Can't wait to play this bitch. Hope you like it!
  19. 3 likes
    Thanks guys, let's see if I can finish before the winter comes... Feel too lazy to sand lately, I think I need extra motivation... so I'm making small things instead, like fitting the electronics and stupidities like that. I've tried both black and creme plastic pickup rings and they didn't convince me, so I've spent the whole weekend making a pair of matching pickup rings. They are three layers, just to keep the style of the top and the headstock. Since the neck has some angle, they have different height. Also made an alternative truss rod cover... I wanted to try something more "tech" but got a potato... anyway... still needs some work. I must say that the screw close to the nut gets through the hole and touch the truss rod, so I have to cut it. Not really the best system in the world, totally missed that drawback...
  20. 3 likes
    Thanks Scott. I was busy this weekend and couldn't make much progress, but hey... I put the logo. This time I've used a sheet of perloid... once it's sanded it looks very similar to MOP, and is quite cheap. I think I have enough for 50 more alien heads.
  21. 2 likes
    so- week one of diet. I stopped drinking soda (serious mountain dew addiction)- substituted a bowl of shredded wheat for my usual bagel with p-nut butter for breakfast and walked 3 miles each day. everything else kept the same- but no fried anything (not that I eat a lot of fried food but I just avoided it all together). Lost 8 lbs- my goal is 2.5lbs per week for the next 2 months. so heck- time to celebrate! just delivered today- Cosmik Debris Double IPA from Creature Comforts out of Athens, GA. 8% abv. I cant even describe this- its like the juiciest Double IPA i have ever had- and I dont think any other doubles i have had are remotely close to tasting like it. and while I love juicy IPAs- I am actually, after consuming #2- wondering if its TOO juicy. I mean- perfect for hot summer day- I could pound these at the beach, but its almost too much of a good thing. its that good. will have to test and try again tomorrow to see if I still think that. fresh! (4/12) Garan IPA from Currahee brewing out of Franklin, NC. 6.8%. Very malt forward IPA, hops are more towards the back. The hops are almost masked by the malt, or maybe that is a way of saying they are in balance (?). This stuff just started showing up in the last week. So- I took a chance (as there was no date stamp on the cans). I called the brewery (cause I just had to) to ask- and they are/were open till 10pm tonight- so- I called- talked with Josh I think he said his name was- and asked about the date stamp- he said- we are a little brewery- we dont have that kind of equipment yet- but if you are calling from Georgia- it was brewed 3 weeks ago. And I believe him as I havent seen it around until lately. Sounded like a party at that brewery- so I thanked him and drank up. Not a bad IPA.
  22. 2 likes
    kept the off cuts from the fingerboard- glad I did- I need a truss rod cover. might as well match the fingerboard truss rod cover roughed out. Free nut blank courtesy of Home depot- just go to the counter top section where corian is sold- open the drawers- there are samples galore. I didnt want a white bone nut here, nor brass- and I have used corian saddle blanks before (they are great for undersaddle pickups.)- anywho- this color is "deep night sky" and tomorrow morning it will become a nut. Thanks Home Depot!
  23. 2 likes
    Latest build to be completed; custom 6-string KM-II with Black Walnut body, Maple/Black Walnut neck, Cocobolo fretboard, Gotoh hardware and BKP Nailbomb covered set, finished with Tru-Oil...
  24. 2 likes
    Just got my quilted maple tops in. One 14mm for the semi hollow and a couple of 6mm drop tops, all from the same piece. What do you think? Will eventually be stained an amber/brown burst and oil and waxed finish.
  25. 2 likes
    Before performing the crowning I re-paint the fret tops with the permanent marker. Some people don't bother with this step, but I find it helps makes things a bit easier to see as I'm going. Once again, the aim of the game is to only use the crowning file to remove as little material as possible. I'm aiming to file so that there is just a weeny bit of a red permanent marker line remaining on the fret top, indicating that I've only reshaped the sides without lowering the height of each fret. I also wear one of those headband torches, so I can put as much light onto this process as possible: All 24 done: Fret edges get bevelled now. I do this early as there is a risk that I'll slip and scuff up the fret top. Doing the edging early means that I can polish out any slip-ups with the various sanding grits. Doing it later means that any slip-ups will necessitate going through the polishing process all over: Then on to polishing. Work my way up through the grits from 600 to 2000, then a final buff with the Dremel before wiping any excess scuzz off with a cloth: Useful tip: have the neck secured in some way so you don't have to touch it while you're polishing the frets. It tends to be messy work, and any crap on your hands can easily transfer to that pristine timber. Wash yer hands before you handle the neck again: Useful tip: remember the earlier post where I wrapped the edges of the masking tape up with a long strip on either side of the neck? Here's where it comes in handy - for removing all the small strips of tape in one piece: Before/after shot. No more popping-uppy frets or sticky-outy edges:
  26. 2 likes
    I think I've sorted the final prototype rig - how to get a hidden magnetic pickup close enough to the strings... Forgive the knotty softwood I used but I rigged up a version of the above concept. The pickup I have at hand doesn't have screw-poles but I have one on order that does. Pretend it is that I am using. Here's basically how the pickup will be fitted at the back of the bass (it will have a cover flush with and matching the neck): From the top with the fretboard removed (remembering there will be the four screw pole pieces): Then using the carved archtop thickness carving trick: ... ...a slot is carved into the back of the radius-profiled fretboard around 1mm- 1.5mm from breakthough: Once the fretboard is fitted the slot will correspond to the pole-pieces on the pickup: Wind up the pole pieces as far as they will go in the space and, from the top, it looks like this: ...but the coil is actually only 4mm from the fretboard top and the pole pieces are 1.5mm from the top. This should mean poles 3.5mm or so from the strings and the coil around 6mm - this should work
  27. 2 likes
    I'm working on finding Cody's front legs... SR
  28. 2 likes
    Did some measuring, and looking good. (Phew!) The neck has a slight back bow, maybe 1 mm with no tension on the truss rod. I expect adding strings will bring that straight, or maybe even a bit more, but hoping the truss rod will get me where I want to be. As it is, the bridge location is spot on for length, needs to be about 0.9 mm left from my original centerline (pretty happy about that!) and smack dab in the middle of the height adjustment. I was surprised to find that this Hipshot bridge allows about 2 mm of side-to-side saddle adjustment, which allows me to fine tune the string spacing ... cool! Overall, happy camper! Oh, yeah ... I "sharpened" the end of the soft-V neck a bit, after confirming I wouldn't expose the carbon fiber rods. It feels great so far, and looking forward to my first "tailor-made-for-me" guitar!! Last picture is the brass nut coming along. The marks are 1st fret height and approximate string bottom ... which I will probably go below after confirming location and playability. After slotting, will sand it down and polish. Do you clearcoat the brass, or just let it age? My first brass nut, so a learning experience.
  29. 2 likes
    Part four... The fretboard... Man this was a pain... I assumed it would be faster but I was in the garage until past midnight after starting about 6PM lol. Part of this was the uber thin bit I was using, I was unsure of how hard I could push it so I stayed VERY conservative at 0.25MM depth of cut and around 150-300MM a minute for the most part. As I was doing the inlay at past midnight and my router is loud I decided to ramp it up to 750MM a minute, I sacrificed a tiny bit of accuracy but the bit coped just fine so next time it'll go faster. The roughing/levelling passes... This took a while as I had a piece of stock about 10MM thick that had to be levelled and thicknessed both sides. The finishing pass/Radius... This went well with only light sanding needed to get rid of the mill marks. (I used a 0.6MM step over per pass.) The finished radius: I decided to go with 12" as I like my Ibanez guitars fretboards, but I'm not a shredder and with the extra scale length I figured an almost flat fretboard would be uncomfortable for me to play but I also didn't want to stray too far from what I'm used to. Unfortunately this was the closest to quarter-sawn I had so It'll have to do. You can barely see the mill marks which was good for me though as I really dislike sanding... Inlay and fret slotting! The inlay took forever... If I recall correctly it was about an hour and 20 minutes! (I was going really slow as it was my first go with a tiny bit and I didn't want to mess it up after all the work to get to this point... I now know I can go alot faster...) The fret slots also took over an hour. The inlay: This was after midnight so I went as fast as I could bare to... Fully expecting to snap a bit and have to do this the next day at a more reasonable time, But to my surprise it took the 750MM a minute extremely well! And after planing the excess off of the back and sanding the inlays free... They were a pain to get free and being so thin and delicate I was sure I'd break one. But I took my time and all went well! The fretboard and neck... Just to see if all lined up well, and it did! No idea what finish to use on the fretboard to stop my finger-grime destroying the pristine maple yet though... Needs to be tough and non-yellowing as I'd like the maple to stay maple-y as long as possible. Any suggestions? Finished inlay! You can see a ever so slight gap in the inlay (Filled with dust and CA glue) due to the loss of accuracy from the extra speed on the CNC... Sawing those slots was scary to say the least after the inlay was in, Not something I want to do again, or at least not in the same way! (I forgot to clean the dust from the slots after sanding the inlay flush and turns out black walnut dust and CA glue make a damned hard mix...) Anyway... Turns out my CNC isn't quite calibrated properly... Instead of 28" (711.20MM) the scale length is 710.00MM or 27.95blahblahblah". I can work with that, 1.2MM isn't enough for me to worry about, the frets are all perfect in that scale. Now to glue it on... (Not sure yet if I'll use standard yellow glue or polyurethane...) Thanks, Mike.
  30. 2 likes
    trust me I wished I had paid them- I hate finishing. especially since I hand rub these out- it takes me a couple days as I have to give my forearms a break in between compound grits. here is a better pic of the black on the control cavity cover. I cant get a good pic inside., Would help if it was a bit cloudy out. This is after medium buffing compound. not bad but still some fine scratches and obviously tons of lint/dust- this laquer is like a magnet for dust after buffing.
  31. 2 likes
    So I got pissed off at the bubbling that occurred during thermoforming yesterday. Turns out it was a good thing, because when I get mad, I reach deep, pray, and turn it up to 11 in my resourcefulness, and kick the problem's ***. I hurried up and cast a new panel, mixed my "paints" and sprayed a waaayyyyy better panel. The burst is better, (two blended shades), and sprayed gold until the gun emptied to really enrich the effect. I lasered the bad thermoformed panel anyway and rounded and polished the edges as a sample panel to give to my luthier for test fitting. Compare the panels - the new one with masking removed on the right has much better depth due to the better burst and the heavier gold. Then I discovered a wonderful new effect from polishing the teardrop roundover - the refraction line.
  32. 2 likes
    Quick update before I go to sleep. I put together that simple radiusing beam jig mentioned elsewhere in a thread I can't remember.... Even without buffers to stop sanding at depth, it works marvellously. Just a little more to go at the very end of the board.
  33. 2 likes
    Managed to find some time to get back to the LP project. I'm going to just link to the old thread instead of updating the threads individually: I am happy to report that the second time using the drill press routing for f-holes, it turned out much better. I used the same template from the other guitar. Finally got the top glued on, and cleaned it up on the spindle sander. Ran a cove bit around and drilled/routed for electronics. Randomly decided that it will have independent volumes & master tone. So you can still do the "on-off-cool-les paul-thing", but I don't care for 2 tones. And mini toggles for coil tapping: Don't ask about that horrendous truss rod channel... lol. Never will I ever attempt to make that cut on a neck that's shaped already, I just didn't have a choice and the old impatient gremlins were at it again. Couldn't keep a template on it for anything and for what this guitar is, I'm just going to live with it. Did some carving on the top. I forgot to take during pictures but came up with this: I want to soften the line some more at the top of the cove. Will have to get back to that soon.
  34. 2 likes
    That's a wrap: Obligatory noise file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/azvlosqnitfkbho/Shoestring Test.mp3?dl=0
  35. 2 likes
    Added 3 coats of gloss top coat, and left it 3 weeks to cure. I'm really happy with the finish!
  36. 2 likes
    Slowly getting there... Still needs shit loads of sanding and detail carving, those curves must be perfect in all directions. This is just a preview of the idea I had in mind. I think that mahogany stripe will be a nice touch after nitro finish.
  37. 2 likes
    So I've started with the second level... this is going much quicker than the last time, now I have the shape in my mind. I just realized that I have to make some routing to the neck before continue (damn!) so this gets in stand by for a while. I've just flipped the body and started the top carving. This rosewood is really hard, but the gouge is doing the job very well.
  38. 2 likes
    Well, I've been doing it for a long time now, and that is what works for me. Remember that stropping adds a micro bevel that tends to eliminate the fragile edge. They do require additional stropping every 20 or 30 minutes to maintain. The sharper they are the less effort it takes to push through the wood. Less effort means more control and less force / energy in the blade as it pops free of the wood. A duller blade or wider angle requires more force to push through the wood. It will have more energy as it pops free and that leads to unintended cuts in both wood and flesh. The deeper curved gouges tend to cut out curls of wood easier than shallower curved ones. The shallow ones are easier to bury the corners of the cutting edge into the wood where upon it stops cutting out curls and only makes smile shaped cuts in the wood. They do have their uses though amongst which are cleaning up cuts made with the deeper curved gouges. You'll discover what they're best for as you go. SR
  39. 2 likes
    Made a bit of progress here. Neck pocket routed... The fit is really tight... The neck has some angle. ... and still need to finish the rounded corners. This is getting shape nicely... and more to come.
  40. 2 likes
    Hi there, I'm back! This summer we have temperatures very close to Venus' surface and guitar building is nearly impossible, the mini workshop is like a sauna... but I decided stop complaining and ge back to work. I've been working this week on the neck, just flattening the back side and cropping the headstock: I'm gonna use a TOM style bridge, so the neck must have an angle, one degree to be more precise. In order to get the angled heel, I need to raise the area where the headstock is, so I've added a 8mm stick under the nut and routed all the back side. I got a new toy: a set of drum sanders which I also can use in the press drill. I've changed the design of the headstock. It was a last minute change, cause I thought the original one was too agressive. This one is a lil bit more elegant, I guess... ... but still killer... That's all for now. Cheers and thanks for watching!
  41. 1 like
    Nice. I've heard good things about Kosmic Debris. Their Tropicalia is excellent stuff. Oh, and I've eaten fried food or red meat nearly every day of my diet. I've lost 34 pounds in 8 weeks.
  42. 1 like
    I'm gratified that you managed to find your ass, Mike. The times we live in! Seriously though. Nice to hear you on the positive. Have a great weekend yourself.
  43. 1 like
    Have you ever had a day when you couldn't find your own Ass with both hands, a search warrant and a seeing eye dog? Well today was NOT one of them, I had a great day. Have a Great Weekend All, MK
  44. 1 like
    Seeing as I'm putting a lot of effort and learning into this build I thought I should treat it to some goodies. Just took delivery of these gorgeous grandtune tuners from schaller, with snake wood keys. Couldn't help but test fit even though I stupidly drilled for 10mm pokes and had to dowel and redrill! Plus I got a precision router base for my dremel, to help me with the inlays.
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    It's probably a good thing there will be no frets in your fretboard.... I love watching you put these ideas together. This will without a doubt be one of the most unique builds we've had in some time. SR
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    Got the bodies. now to scribe, plane, shape,etc.
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    Got some more body work done today, as well as inspecting the fingerboard join which looks to be fine... Bridge pickup finally routed... My drill press couldn't get all the way in there, but my mini mill as it turns out could so I hogged it out before routing. I've had that acrylic pickup template for about 10 years when I first decided I wanted to build a guitar Glad it's finally being used! Not sure why it's taken me so long to get around to building one... Maybe through fear of messing it up and my usual excuse "But I don't have the tool for that". Either way, I'm glad I waited since my woodworking knowledge and skill back then would not have been up to the task! Control cavity routed... I was going to do the plate/cover recess but my bearing guided bit is too long and I couldn't find any scraps thick enough to allow me to build a thick enough template. (I know it's a bit of a mess in there but I wanted to leave enough material to make the top nice and strong so I couldn't take out all the forstner marks... I drop my guitars alot... ) And now some pictures of a some-what dry assembly just to get an idea of the look... Not really happy that I had to go maple on the fretboard but I'm hoping once the dye job is done It'll make the whole thing a bit more cohesive... It's ALOT of maple. Still alot more work to go, There was a fair bit of tear-out when I thicknessed the top with my router plane/sled thingy. And the body is still a little chunky for my taste at 48MM... It's a fair sized chunk of heavy african mahogany and it would kill my shoulder at the moment. It does have a beautiful ribbon figure to it though, Can't see it to well in the photos but after finishing... Shame it'll be hidden at the back. Mike.
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    This is looking good! F-holes came out quite nice this time around. SR
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    Back strapping can be useful in hiding a scarf and/or providing a little additional structural value against short grain. A challenge but a visual treat.
  50. 1 like
    Okay, so a bit of this is putting my money where my mouth is, or some other similar pithy aphorism. My adjustable humbucker template was stuck down with 3M double-sided tape. I know that the centreline will be on the mark later, so no worries about doing this before the neck is in place. http://www.projectguitar.com/product_reviews/tools_and_consumables/3m-9740-double-coated-tape-where-to-stick-it-r27/ http://www.projectguitar.com/tutorials/instrument-building/router-basics-humbucker-pickup-routing-with-pickup-ring-r73/ First, a starter hole was drilled to the final depth required using a Forstner bit. A really good Forstner bit. I'm using the fixed base on my laminate trimmer router because of the lower centre of gravity, better control in small spaces and fantastic extraction. For enclosed routs, this sucks the base down onto the workpiece! Token photo showing me pretending to rout single-handed. The router is set for 4mm per pass, with the cutter placed into the starter hole prior to making it so. After engagerating the routerating mechanism, the cutter is moved in a clockwise direction around the perimeter of the starter hole and brought outwards gradually until the template is contacted. I then trace the perimeter of that and clean up any stray nibs I missed. No need to cut heavily. No rush. Three passes took this down to 12mm. The base of the starter hole was set for 12mm so that for the final pass I could loosen the height adjuster, drop the cutter and "read" the depth from that hole. Note the important tone hole from the Forstner bit's spur. Convincing the auxiliary template into place, I made a start on the leg bits. Holes? Cut a bit at a time, flip the template, rinse and repeat. I should have swapped over the cutter to a longer one (which I do not have right now....the only reasonably-priced source for my preferred router bit stuff is in Poland of all places; @pan_kara?) so the bearing dipped under the template and the shank rode on the template. Bummer. Time to note that in the tutorial, methinks. Nonetheless, it has zero impact on the fuctionality of the rout. You can see here, the Death Star, orbiting the forest moon of Endor. Although the weapon systems on this Death Star are not yet operational, the Death Star the bridge placement markings. The main line (it was adjusted about a mm last week) shows the minimum intonation point. The Gotoh Nashville style TOM I'm using has post centres about 5mm back from the most-forward intonation adjustment point. That means the post locations need to be 5mm back from the minimum adjustment point. Make sense? To squeeze the most out of the range, the bass side is dropped back by another 4mm, hence the 9mm marking.