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Voting November 2018's Guitar Of The Month is now open


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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/04/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Thanks scott. The black one was pretty awesome. I still cant help but wonder how good it would have looked under green though. Before the busy season, ive been able to use up some of the wood ive had for years. Knocked these out in a couple of days.
  2. 2 points
    Hi, I'm Ash, a hobby builder from Oxfordshire, UK. I've been a lurker for a little while but posted detail of previous builds on the Crimson Guitar forum. But I thought I'd start posting here I've been woodworking since Feb this year after getting hooked on videos by Ben Crowe and Paul Sellers. Here are a couple of my previous builds: #2 - 30 fret PRS style build - 2 piece khaya mahogany body, 1 piece neck of the same, spalted flame maple top, and headstock, gabon ebony fretboard with flamed maple binding and bar inlays, hardware is all gotoh with a PRS HFS pickup and PRS volume and coiltap. Stained with artist oil paints and finished with Crimson guitars finishing oil. #4 - my first commision - 25" scale LP type guitar made from wenge body and neck with a flamed sycamore top, macasar ebony fretboard with flamed maple binding and headstock. The entire upper bout round to behind bridge on this one is hollow but it still weighs in at a hefty 9lb once hardware was in. Again, PRS electronics with Holcomb alpha omega pups, schaller signum bridge and sperzel tuners. I really like the feel of a wenge neck but I wouldnt hurry to use it again for body wood. Again, oil finish but this time I used a water based dye to try and create a charcoal effect. This top had a knot in it which was a real PITA to carve, I flooded it with superglue before carving then resign afterwards, in hindsight, I should have flood the top with resign while it was still a blank. #5 - Another commission - currently I'm on the finishing process. Another PRS style build, a bit of a mish-mash between a custom 24 and a mccarty style guitar as it's 24 frets and 25" scale but with a tail piece. The player has several les pauls so I tried to make it a bit more gibson with 12" radius and a slightly thicker body and deeper carve in the top. For this one, I started with a 1 piece khaya mahogany body and a 2.5m plank of flamed maple. I used the plank to make up the top and laminated strips of it with some offcuts from #2 to make a laminated neck, in fact I used the same plank to make all of the maple on this guitar, including control cover and inlays This was my first serious attempt at cutting fretboard inlays, using some les paul plans and hand cutting them all, about 20 hours in total to get them cut and inlayed.
  3. 2 points
    My number one tool for the flowing lines... ...is a long sanding block. SR
  4. 1 point
    The back? It was roughed in with a right angle sander and a random orbital sander, and cleaned up with that long sanding block pictured, and a foam block that comes with micromesh with a piece of .020" polycarbonate adhered to one side. That flexes enough to get into all the concave areas and is still hard enough to not leave ripples over the grain changes. The neck join was carved with hand gouges and cleaned up with the various sized drums from my spindle sander and foam sanding blocks. The front was rough carved with hand gouges and then subjected to the same treatment as the back. SR
  5. 1 point
    I dunno man... that tail piece might be a little high. (jk - looking good!)
  6. 1 point
    I agree, I like to base my instruments on something (usually prs in my case because I'm a fan boy) and it makes building a lot easier using pre-made templates but I think a certain amount of creative license is a must, otherwise I might as well just go out any buy another guitar instead. That being said, now that I know a thing or two about building them, I'd struggle to justify going out and buying another
  7. 1 point
    At least you're not having to use acetone to peel your balls off the chair.
  8. 1 point
    Wow. Small CA spill at the Casa De Wesley. I mean, bloody hell, fookers(have to borrow from other English speaking Countries... USA just doesn't have the expressions). Anyway.. got my toes peeled apart and sanded off most of the rough parts on my fingers. Nose only bleeding a little from the caustic fumes. I mean... shit.
  9. 1 point
    Swamp ash, as far as I understand it, is not a species as much as the conditions that the Ash it has been in before being taken out of its natural environment for use as timber. I presume it's a bit like 'bog oak' that we have in the UK. My understanding (probably wrong) is that the long period of basically being saturated opens up and clears much of the sap channels and that once it has been properly dried and seasoned, it is left much more open pored and softer than an Ash that had been seasoned after being conventionally felled. Certainly, when buying swamp ash recently at my local supplier I was staggered at how much lighter it was compared to the standard ash in the pile next to it. But, then again, some of the pieces of the swamp ash were noticeably lighter than others. ALL were lighter than the conventional Ash, though. So, it's not a marketing ploy but it is still highly variable and so you really need to be able to pick the pieces yourself or at least get the supplier to give you the weight of each of the pieces you are potentially interested in. As always with my comments, @mistermikev, don't assume that I know what I'm talking about but I do know that the last two sets of Swamp Ash I have bought were super-light but, in all other respects, looked and finished like conventional Ash.
  10. 1 point
    Why has this resurfaced? When I made this I said I wasn't 100% sure of the wood, but fairly certain is was Panama / Yucatan Rosewood. After looking again, I'm 99% sure this is correct. https://www.wood-database.com/yucatan-rosewood/ It's a very interesting wood, It feels and works like Mahogany, has a similar weight (which is VERY different from any other Dalbergia), almost no oil (also VERY different), large and weird open grain but still interlocked and very stable. When I finished this build, I had left the neck somewhat oversized, I figured I'd play it and refine the profile later if I felt it needed it. It;'s actually had little use as I built a strat soon after that just plays AMAZING. Anyhoo, as I made the neck in my current build I thought I should revisit this and finish the profile as I had actually left it more like a baseball bat. I shaved a lot of wood off last night, and polished it up to an absolute killer of a neck. Working so much with the wood again made me dig this up to see what it was and here we are. You can't really tell neck profiles from pictures, but believe me, it went from a "oh that's nice" to a "WOW! that is a SEXY neck." She will get a lot more play from now on.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    This coming Monday I will finally have my back surgery. Hoping all goes well and I can get back to a somewhat reasonable life again. MK
  13. 1 point
    Yeah. I like to a lot of things by hand, but that ain't one of them. SR
  14. 1 point
    Thank you. Ill get some better pics up. The top is crotch walnut
  15. 1 point
    blue legoon - another really creative build and very nice... but really torn between ferrari and root beer this month. On the one hand - the ferrari - man, just very unique, very "rock-n-roll" and the finish is top notch. On the other, I'm a sucker for a really nice top, and the dual color fretboard just seals the deal for me (sorry guys!).
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Bumping for nostalgia. Got my second and third build posting soon! Its only been 5 years :)
  18. 1 point
    So, one quick and cheap Ebay purchase later, we have a 1/2" drill bit. And we have some correct sized holes Although the body wood looks mahogany-ish, it's relatively less dense - lighter and softer. I can't remember the name of it. To make sure the inserts sit firmly I wicked CA around the holes (the above picture was before the CA wicking) Then it was pretty straightforward to clamp my template on and route the bridge pickup cavity. The depth was adjusted to the neck angle - 15mm this time. (Only the pickup covers shown there. I've not sunk them that deep!) Now you may be wondering what that small hole is doing just in front of the bridge pickup. Erm, it's a slight miscalculation screwing the template to the body blank when I first shaped it. Oh well. There are options though, depending on which finish we settle on. If painted solid colour, I'll plug it and it will be blended with the grain filling. Whether painted or not there's a fair chance it will have a scratch plate covering it. Personally my preferred option is to stay with a natural/dyed finish, and I have something in mind for that option too
  19. 1 point
    Thanks for the kind words. Yes started in February, In 2016 we bought my late, great uncles house, he was a carpenter and is old bench and vice was still in the garage so I have a good work space. I was researching on YouTube how to build a cupboard under the stairs and stumbled across some guitar building videos, while I was at the local timber yard getting down stock for the cupboard, I picked up Sapele and thought I’d have a go. This was the first build that I finished in March. I got an Ash plank off eBay for £9 that I laminated to make a 3 piece neck. This is the first build: It’s far from professional but I learnt a lot from it. for some reason I can’t upload the 3rd build. I’ll try again later with a different format. between 5 builds and a stair cupboard I’ve also made a second workbench to help with my tool hoarding problem. So I started out looking for a hobby, but seem to have gained an obsession
  20. 1 point
    Hi This is a bit of a catch up. With the distraction of newly acquired grandparenting duties and a couple of fairly tight build deadlines, I'm afraid that my forum posting has been a bit lax. This, of course, will have been to the great relief and delight of all of the forum members who struggle, understandably, with the crazy world that is Andyjr1515's ramblings. But, in the same way that Mr Kellogs believed that too long a break from colonic irrigation was no good at all for his followers, I think you've had a good enough break from my projects and it's time to get out the warm water, funnel and rubber tubing and get back to peeping through the windows of the madhouse. Another Swift Lite Bass. Hmmm, OK - I can let everyone back in gently. There is no point in me doing an overly detailed build diary because it's pretty much the same as the one I finished earlier in the year for Neil (below) and for which there is already a tortuously long thread on the forum: After the No Treble 'Bass of the Week', I got a number of enquiries for similar builds - probably because of the lightweight aspect. One enquiry - a player in Hawaii - came to fruition and this has been progressing over the past couple of months. It is the same basic spec, but a just slightly different shape for the horns and cutaways and it will be P-J rather than J-J pickup configuration. A quick photo story up to the present status: The above picture is the present state of play - and it's not as complete as it looks. I've only lightly fitted the strings to check the spacing and get the positioning for the next scary bit - cutting the P-J pickup chambers. However, it is complete enough for me to be able to estimate the final playing weight - around 6.5lbs There - that wasn't so bad, was it... Andy
  21. 1 point
    Here is the new one I'm just starting on - #6 is what I was dreaming of when I first started but couldn't justify using such expensive woods on the first couple of guitars: Black limba 1 piece body and neck blank, Ziricote carve top, ziricote fretboard and headstock cap. I've got some white and gold mop blanks so I can have a go with some shell inlays as I've only worked with maple an ebony as inlay materials in previous builds. It's not going to be a les paul (that's just the sellers pencil line), it will be based on a custom 24 with a slightly greater break angle to cater for a schaller signumb bridge, then a 57/08 neck and HFS bridge pups and wired up with 1 vol, 1 tone, a 3-way switch and 2 mini toggles like my Pauls guitar. I'm considering finishing this one with a wipe on poly, I love the feel of an oiled guitar, but since I've started gigging #2, I've found that it scratches too easily, but I haven't got the space or the knowhow to take on a spray finish just yet, So far I've roughed out the neck blank profile, but I'm going to let that sit for a while to allow for any movement. Planning to take my time on this one, in fact I will probably end build building a flying V for a friend before I finish this project.
  22. 1 point
    There are two types of people. Well, maybe more, but two types I'll describe here. One type (like me) says, "I only have two hours to work on the guitar this week, I better rush everything." The other type (like Norris) says, "I only have two hours to work on the guitar this week, I'm going to drill two holes as perfectly as I can." I need to be more like Norris.
  23. 1 point
    Also, bubinga doesn't splinter when routing in my experience. I have zero experience with paduak though. The images I've seen seen to show an overlapping grain that looks like it would be prone to splintering, though that may not be the case, as again I haven't had first hand experience with it. Also, the piece in the photo above was 3" by 28" by 24" iirc when I bought it and shipping listed it as almost 50 pounds. When lying flat on the floor it was very tough to get my fingers under to pick it up. This guitar is 1 3/8" thick, is a much smaller version of an explorer, and even with the holes still weighs nearly 10 pounds. Sorry, it's a bit dusty.
  24. 1 point
    Having worked with my share of bubinga I can tell you the giveaway is that bubinga is both dense and filled with mahogany-esque pores. Look for the pores.
  25. 1 point
    Gorgeous as usual. but I really love the look of that black quilt. That's really special. SR