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  1. 5 likes
    So here is the first casting of the "quilted" acrylic. I strafe-coated the topography - gold from bottom, silver boro from top. The two tone effect is not lighting - its actually gold on one side of the "quilt billows" and silver on the other side.
  2. 5 likes
    Hey PG friends! Sorry I've been so absent lately, school and work have been keeping me crazy busy. That coupled with a few tool-failure-induced guitar problems have conspired to make me feel less social than usual. I've got one build newly done and two more in the home stretch, so here's looking toward a better tomorrow! First up, my freshly finished Pioneer MS6. This is going to be auctioned off at an event for the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation's West Palm Beach chapter (@CFFPalmBeach on FB). I'm going to get some more pics and a demo video before giving it away. Specs: 25-26" scale Alder body Maple neck/fretboard Jescar 47095 stainless fretwire Hipshot staggered open-gear locking tuners Custom milled aluminum bridge (thanks @2.5itim!) w/Graphtech saddles DiMarzio Red Velvet neck, True Velvet T bridge pickups This guitar has an evil twin.... I'll start behaving properly and post more pics this week. Until next time, thanks for taking a look!
  3. 4 likes
    This is basically the official motto of Project Guitar
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    Hello gents. Not much to report from the coal face. Real life seems to have reared its ugly head again. I've now joined the top and back using the ghetto clamping cauls pictured, the bench vice and a couple of sheets of glass to stop things sticking together. It worked suprisingly well, which is a relief because I don't think theres enough space in the shed for any more jigs and things. Back was thinned to c. 2.1mm, top is c. 2.7 in the middle and 2mm around the edges. The top doesnt look anything special, but is really nice and stiff. Thicknessing the back was a real P.I.T.A. but I got there with the 5 1/2 and a cabinet scraper. On the back the middle strip is on together with the lattice. First time with the home made go bar deck. I'm totally sold on this way of clamping. Once dry I went at the lattice with a small plane to rough shape. I'm going to come back to this to refine.
  5. 3 likes
    Ahh, I see! It'd be interesting to experiment with, at the very least. Sapele/maple 7 sanded.... And oiled!
  6. 3 likes
    Thanks CJ! That is my chambering template, but I didn't use it on this build. Simple 7- now with binding! Problem: bound edges aren't terribly comfortable on the forearm. Solution: carve the hell out of it! I'm going to take this to the shop on campus tomorrow and slap it around with a DA sander, more pics then.
  7. 3 likes
    I'll do the fancy shots when I've got hold of the intended brass nut and decided what strings suits it best (I've got two flatwound jazz electrics and two bronze acoustics on it at the moment ) I've wired it up '58 Les Paul Junior style to give the maximum tonal opportunity. I sounds good, even though I still have no idea what one is really supposed to sound like Here it is: I'm pretty pleased with it, especially as it's probably the last build I'll do for Pete (unless he has more money than sense!)
  8. 3 likes
    I've got the back bracing together and radiused the backs dome of 15'. Its looking a bit chunky here, but when glued, will be thinned down a lot. I figured that it would be a bit easier to attach to the back as one unit. The back strip once cut to accept the braces will act like a guide(?) to stop any creep. The neck blocks almost done. Yes bolt holes. Apologies. The fretboard support is raked up at 3 degrees to allow for the dome of the top and neck angle. I've left final shaping of the curved section till I've got the top braced and the soundhole cut, so there's a bit of wood to play with there. the whole underside will be nicely bevelled off as it will be viewable through the offset soundhole. Tools now pretty much down until the top and back hit the ranch. Thanks for reading Matt
  9. 2 likes
    The headstock still needs colouring in.
  10. 2 likes
    More often than not, I just carve them out with palm gouges. They are always going into a surface of compound curves anyway. Lately I've come to like the look of just insetting the knobs into the top with about three quarters of the knob above the surface of the top. I just use a forstner bit about an eighth inch larger in diameter than my knobs....but a guided bit like Knightro uses would be better. SR
  11. 2 likes
    LOL I literally just had an idea today of doing exactly this on some future build - solving the problem of bound body with a thin top being uncomfortable on the forearm by carving through the binding and just having it disappear for that section of the outline. I thought I was being original, but now it I ever do it, it will be another thing to put on my list "and now I'll do what I saw Knightro do in the past" . oh well
  12. 2 likes
    Kind of you to say Scott, though there's been a lot of swearing and head scratching to get to this point. The linings went on yesterday. I ditched the idea of solid linings in favour of kerfed. Lifes too short.... I glued them on with about 1mm over the ribs edge and once set sanded on the discs. Some areas needed a bit of encouragement to sit properly, hence the draconian clamping. Today I sorted out the rib supports. nibbled out whole blocks whereth support lies and glued accross the face of the ribs. Perhaps not the usual way, but I wanted to see if some of the cupping from bending could be taken out. It seems to have worked somewhat and suprisingly looks OK too. Another trip to the dishs and the tops and bottoms are nicely radiused. Apart from that not a lot to show. I've bought some back and side sets for future projects so mch of the mornings been spent cutting spacers..... Cheers Matt
  13. 2 likes
    Thank you! I designed the bridges, @2.5itim did the actual milling, then I had them chromed locally. Everything worked out pretty well, no problems so far. Hopefully, the owner won't have any issues. --- Now that the rush to build the Pioneer twins is over (and I've fixed various equipment issues), I'm introducing a new pair of Voyagers. One will be a solid maple 6 string. Sounds lame, I know, but I've got a really fun plan for it....more news as it develops. The other is a 7 string in sapele with a maple top. I've already got a neck nearly ready for the 7, it just needs a bit of sanding and a headstock logo before finish. It's nothing fancy, just maple with a rosewood fretboard. My goal is to have the simple 7 done within the next 3 weeks, then I can move on to my biggest, most ridiculous design yet. Stay tuned!
  14. 2 likes
    Here's something I did years ago... someone suggested the obvious, old cracked, split wood wasn't suitable for a guitar simply due to structrual considerations... which is correct, IF ya do nothing to adress the issues.. No matter what ya do that's "off the wall", someone will always show up and start flaming whatever ya did as resulting in an inferior whatever, or not capable of superior tone, or any one of a unlimited number of other disses... That's a crock... after, i don't know how many hundreds, if not thousands of these BarnBusters.. I have never had anyone send one back broken, cracked or otherwise showing signs of succumbing to the beauty marks picture framed in the character... and sound... same thing.... never one gripe... So I took the most rotten skanky bug eaten (actually this is the stuff the Termites wouldn't touch)... hunk I could find and conducted a test.. Using the slow cure CA ( that's the pedestrian name) the suppliers call it something else...) I "secured" the obvious flaws, let it cure a day or so.. then went at it with a hammer... It did break.. but did so in areas that were sound lumber, not on the repaired faults... showing the repairs were now stronger, more secure, than the bug eaten rotten stuff.. Initially I was using the same "stuff" Museum Conservators use to preserve ancient artifacts.. but my friend that works in the field suggested commercially available CA glues... ( not the hobby grade or DIY) stuff available. They are available in very slow curing solutions so instead of hardening instantly, they can take hours, allowing time for the solution to soak into compromised areas, and once it hardens, it's more dense than a teenagers head.... SO .. yeah... you can get away with using some incredibly "unsuitable" trash and have a stunning guitar... Ron Kirn
  15. 2 likes
    Knightro Guitars- Pioneer MS6 "Evil Twin" Spec Roundup: Sapele body and neck Pau ferro fretboard 25-26" multiscale Custom milled aluminum bridge (courtesy @2.5itim) with Graphtech saddles Elysian Pickups- Tuned Aperture Tele bridge (alnico), Tuned Aperture neck humbucker (alnico/ceramic blend) Hipshot open-gear locking tuners Jescar 47095SS fretwire 3 ply Tortoise pickguard (T/W/B) 1 volume w/parallel-series switch, 1 tone, 3 way toggle Odie's Oil finish
  16. 2 likes
    Finally got this one finished. Here are a few pics of the finished product. It sounds killer! Thanks to all those who have followed this build and offered kind words throughout the progress.
  17. 2 likes
    Still havnt done much work lately. Funny how other areas of your life affect your passions. Finally got around to working on this one.
  18. 1 like
    In some ways, being reined in from going all hell on a build is a good thing. For one, you're forced to consider your next steps and have plenty of time to refine your plan. I do that a lot. Oddly enough, whilst doing other woodwork.
  19. 1 like
    Weeeeeeeee.....!!!! Oops. I meant, "wheeeeeeee!!!".
  20. 1 like
    Matt, you and Andy share a literary loquaciousness to your postings. If we could get you two caught up in a spirited back and forth, the rest of us could pop up some popcorn and pour a cold beer, put our feet up and enjoy an evening of fine reading. And the build is looking quite worthy as well SR
  21. 1 like
  22. 1 like
    That is my middle and probably 2nd middle name. It also comes from waiting for things to arrive and not being able to work on it, I think about it most of the time
  23. 1 like
    Well the gimbals were good this morning so I glued the top on using the go deck. Braces to follow this afternoon after a cuppa. Fit was nice and tight with only one section at the waist needing further glue and clamp. Definitely a gluing, not a fit boo boo. At the moment the thing bongs like a drum. Feeling quite chuffed.
  24. 1 like
    I have the T-shirt for that! A vegetable steamer appliance was very useful
  25. 1 like
    and the beat goes on, No baby just because it is soft doesn't mean the thrill is gone. and the beat goes on, It's four in the morning and I'm driving towards the daylight running from the midnight. and the beat goes on, Me crying? Maybe it's those damn green onions you keep slicing and wiping your hands on my old blue jeans not that I mind, but a little tush would be fine. and the beat goes on, Broke the strings on my old guitar, speaks volumes of who you are. and the beat goes on, Married you 40 years ago and wild horses couldn't drag me away. and the beat goes on, Tonight we ride,for right or wrong, You wreck me baby. and the beat goes on, She's my medusa, I'm stone where I stand. Shaking my cage, running from the daylight, bad moon rising. and the beat goes on, mk
  26. 1 like
    West Texas is always in a drought. It's basically a desert.
  27. 1 like
    @ScottR would love to see that carving rack of yours....
  28. 1 like
    Thanks all for your advice. Ive been thinking about it all day and I think I like your idea @ScottR. I like the idea of the knobs staying perpendicular to the back but slightly recessed into the top but with soft edge rather than just drilled in. my les paul knobs bug me sticking out at odd angles! back to the strat! Frets levelled and dressed. I nipped the tang ends off and filled the slot ends with a glue/ebony dust mix. Cut the nut slot. Almost a guitar now. Tomorrow I'll carve the neck then it's time to string up!
  29. 1 like
    Right ho,so that went OK. Andy, after shaping and when the neck angle is dialled in, the extension wont be all that thick at all - I'm hoping...... The struts are mostly structural really but I've read various wiff waff about bars like this helping to transfer energy from the neck. I don't know nearly half enough to make a decision on whether that's valid. I did a quick test with the top, and everything is playing nicely at this point. Starting to get quite interested in this one... Originally the plan was to use threaded inserts in the neck to receive a couple of bolts through the neck block. Nah. I took one look at the inserts I ordered and decided I didn't like the thought of sinking holes that bit into what will be quite a small lump of wood. They would also give hardly any wiggle room. Cross dowel bolts are the new flavour of the week. 8mm holes in the block. M6 bolts. Dowels held in 10mm holes sunk into the neck from top and bottom. Righty tighty. Ponder time again.
  30. 1 like
    take this with a pinch of salt but when I've done this I've put a hole in some thick MDF with a forstner bit the width of the dish wanted. Then drilled a small pilot hole in the body and centered the MDF template over the pilot hole using the forster bit. Once routed drill. I've got a top bearing cove bit though and buyer beware - there are probably far better ways to go about this.
  31. 1 like
    A coving bit is what I use also...I haven't been able to find anything that gives anywhere near such a neat result. In terms of tearout, I use good bits (Axminster - as you are in the UK - are OK in my view), and I practice at various router speeds on some offcut of the wood I'm going to use.
  32. 1 like
    Very, very nice! I plan to do a build for my kid as well. He's currently 6yrs old. Would be nice for his 8th birthday or so. The theme will be difficult though. Today it's Minions, tomorrow it's Paw Patrol day after it's Cars ..... LOL looking forward to your finish!
  33. 1 like
    I think he means the line that you've created by cutting through - running the binding through there instead of having it vanish
  34. 1 like
    Take it steady. Did you learn anything from the test? The problem is that it's just the wrong tool for the job, but the right tool because it's the only one for it....if that makes sense. A router bit like that may benefit from "pecking" since there is no good escapement for waste. Does the coving bit have a bearing that guided around that hole....? Not sure how you're approaching this....unless I missed something in an earlier post....
  35. 1 like
    OK long cup of tea later and this is the plan of attack. thin and shape the extension of the neck block - I was waiting until the soundhole was cut before doing this. Shape and glue the long strut. Shape and glue the short strut. Radius all on the dish Plane the neck block to set neck angle. Don't see why this wouldn't work and it should make fitting the soundhole reinforcement and struts to the neck block easier methinks. Famous last words.
  36. 1 like
    Cupping might well be related to the amount of curvature in the growth rings....I'm not 100% sure since acoustics and thin wood bending are not my chosen fields. I've done a fair amount of cold bent lamination for mildly-bowed arms (sofa, armchair, etc.) but never really seen any cupping outside of what you'd expect from any thin piece. I'd have suspected that the bending might force the wood to be flatter across the grain since it doesn't readily bend in longitudinal and tangential/radial simultaneously. Again, I'm sort of divining blindly.....
  37. 1 like
    Thanks. I've tried to show everything, warts & all. If it gives somebody something to think about before making a mistake, provides a tip for how to achieve something, or even inspires someone to start their first build - then it's all been worth it That's been my philosophy throughout - It takes as long as it takes. The next one will be a lot quicker, as it's a much simpler build. Having said that I'll be tackling some stuff I've not done in this build, such as a neck angle & scarf joint (Yes, it's lined up already, much to my wife's chagrin!)
  38. 1 like
    My old pool getting much needed repairs and a facelift. Will be swimming soon. Will post more pics as they move along. After cutouts and acid wash..not much plaster left. LOL!! Skimcoat prep now. Only been 5 hours total today. LOL!! And yes these guys have there green cards or are legal..
  39. 1 like
    @KnightroExpress did a review of the Triton here: It's on my wish list
  40. 1 like
    It's actually 28mm and I'm definitely going to get two out if it. Two decent tops and such a nice piece. Feels like my birthday. Mill post some photos when it arrives but for now I'm back to dressing the frets on the superstrat.
  41. 1 like
    Yeah, he's clearcoated a fly and a spider and several gnats that I remember. He left 'em in there and called it mojo. SR
  42. 1 like
    Cheers @Norris I'll stop where I am then and I think apply the same stain that the back will have, which is a chocolate brown alcohol born stain. Ive tidied the routes up now and added a 1/4" roundover to the back. Oh and just had an email with some top choices. This is my choice so should have it soon. 18mm quilted top.
  43. 1 like
    Knightro, As always, the 7 looks great. The top is fantastic. Yowzer! is that your chambering template for the maple?! Good on ya, man!
  44. 1 like
    I wouldn't go much thinner than 4mm - you'll need a bit for finish sanding. I think I left about 6mm on my Tele. Take it steady when you get to it. You'll probably want to apply some sort of finish to the chamber. Dye/paint/clear lacquer - up to you. You won't be able to do it once the top is on - at least not very easily.
  45. 1 like
    Who knew dog ears could be so hard and pointed? I have a bruise on my chest made by one ear whilst I was carving upon the other. I have to remember too keep all the details oversize as I work them in. This is a subtractive process... SR
  46. 1 like
    This is seriously going to be the coolest micro guitar out there.
  47. 1 like
    Founders Breakfast Stout--delicious. Four Noses Brewery in Colorado. Bout Damn Time IPA. This is really good stuff. Hoppy, citrus, fruity, juicy good! Station 26 brewery in Colorado, Single Hop IPA. I got two kinds, Citra and Chinook. Cans look the same as does the beer. I like the Citra best, but Chinook is good too, but perhaps a bit old school. And Karbach's Three Legged Lab from here in Houston. From the my admittedly limited experience with Imperial Stouts, this is the best I've ever had. It's black silk that tastes of coffee, cocoa, and even some hops. SR
  48. 1 like
    I've got a deadline. Our vocalist is likely leaving Japan at the end of next month, so my band's last gig is probably April 15. And I'm traveling from for the first two weeks of April. So that means I've got to get these finished this month. Hope I can do it! I have been making fairly steady progress. The necks are all glued up and ready to be shaped next week, electronics cavities routed, and I've done the pacman cut on the pickup cavities. Here are some photos: Headstocks have been laser etched: fingerboard and headstock plate aligned with pins so they glue on straight: New toy - laser beam! Heal glued on the double cut neck: Fillet ready to the truss rod channel: I have learned my lesson and used a fence to make sure the side markers all lined up: Dots on the board and holes on the side. I love the way the abalone looks on ebony. They glow. Glueing the fingerboards on: And finally, the electronics cavities are routed. I'm hopeful that I will get the necks shaped, fretted, and glued in next week. Then I can finish the week after and give it two weeks to cure while I'm away. Next week is gonna be a big week!
  49. 1 like
    OK, well already up against some very stiff competition but, heck, why not. I present to you all Pequeña It's a piccolo bass, designed and built for our band's bassist, Pete, to allow him to noodle on the sofa or to practice and try out new riffs, without risking the safety of his good lady wife, pets, family or visitors with a flailing full-size bass's 34" neck and headstock It's my 11th scratch build since I started on this crazy but exhilarating hobby. Main specs and features include: 26" to 25" multi-scale neck, 24 frets, 12" radius 4 strings, tuned at bass tuning but pitched one octave higher (guitar pitch) Sapele and Black Walnut body; Maple neck with central mahogany splice; Snakewood fretboard. Curved top and scalloped back Satin finish with tru-oil 'slurry and buff' Seymour Duncan 'Cool Rails', mid-voiced with coil split option; tone and volume '58 style for maximum tonal palette Magnetic hatch and truss-rod cover access Fitted with flatwound heavy gauge Jazz Guitar Strings Weight: 5lb 14oz Build thread is here And here it is: Thanks for looking
  50. 1 like
    Afterimage Guitars - HM6 "Halcyon" Built as an experiment to see how far I could get using as much low cost componentry and hardware store timber as possible, this instrument contains many of the same construction features as its more exotic bigger brothers, such as a carbon fibre reinforced neck and a comfortable, ergonomic body shape. Extensive use of chambering and a thinner body (38mm) has reduced the overall weight of the guitar down to a paltry 2.5kg. While this could possibly be classed as a "Lite" version of the HM series in more ways than one, the result is still a solid player capable of standing out in a crowd. Specs: Scale length - 25" Neck - 3 piece Tasmanian Oak with Jarrah pin stripes between the laminations, carbon fibre reinforcement Fretboard - Merbau Frets - Jumbo nickel silver Body - 3 piece Tasmanian Oak with figured Tasmanian Blackwood top. Headless hardware - Low-cost no name hardware in black Pickups - Iron Gear Hot Slag (bridge), Iron Gear Rolling Mill (neck) Electronics - 1x volume, 1x 3 way toggle switch. Finish - Danish oil Sound sample of the instrument can be downloaded here Build thread located here.