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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/26/2020 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Hey guys n’ gals, the wood all came in for my next build so I figured I’d get this thread started! This will be a 7-string multiscale guitar, and will have a very similar design to my most recent build. However, this guitar’s theme will be the blood moon, and as such it will feature colors, inlays, and other design elements to suit. Projected specs: - Quilted maple top and headstock cap, natural quilted maple “binding” - Ribbon mahogany body - Roasted single-piece curly maple set neck with 2x carbon fiber rods - 25.5”-26.25” multiscale with perpendicular fret at 8 or so, 24 stainless steel frets, slight upper fretboard scallop - Undecided on fretboard wood, either quilted maple or ebony - Locking Sperzel tuners - Hipshot multiscale fixed bridge - Bareknuckle Juggernaut humbuckers - Some lunar-themed inlays in the fretboard and elsewhere. Pics of the wood: Really looking forward to this one, and should be able to get to work on it soon. Cheers!
  2. 7 points
    And now it is fun time! SR
  3. 4 points
    Hi PG Squad! I've been a long time lurker on this forum, and with quarantine keeping me at home I finally dove into my first ever build. Here are the specs: Shape: Solid body inspired roughly by Fender offsets, specifically the Meteora Body wood: Alder Scale: 25,5inch Neck: Bolt-On Maple Fretboard: 22 Fret Rosewood, inlays tbd Bridge: Fender tremelo Pickups: Fender 57'/62' reissue Controls: Standard s-type Tuners: Gotoh locking I started by designing the guitar in Fusion: Printing templates: And getting my alder body blank glued up: Ultimately if I have something playable at the end of this I'll consider it a huge success. I've seen the community on PG help several others through their first builds and hopefully they'll be as gracious with me when I undoubtedly have questions!
  4. 4 points
  5. 3 points
    btw yall... so after a cyclone of social media posts I made... culminating in the post on the progressive facebook page... they reached out to me and it's a miracle -they were able to speak to the liable part and are falling all over themselves to get my vehicle fixed. birds not in the hand yet but looking very different.
  6. 3 points
    You’re not wrong Andy, a preliminary scratch finding stain seams to be the norm for me, intentional or not because I’m shut at finding scratches. It’s all stained anyway, good weather over the last couple of days meant I could get the top sealed too as I’m using cellulose sealer. We are due cold spell now so hopefully after then I’ll be able to get some clearcoat over it
  7. 3 points
    Probably got as far as I can go at this stage. Other than applying the finish to the neck maple (which will darken and amber it a touch) and fitting the trussrod cover, this is now pretty much just waiting for the hardware. The neck has been tidied up: And the Osmo has come up nicely. Just one more slurry and wipe with 400 grit and then two more very thin applications wiped on with kitchen roll has given just the level of sheen I was after: The pickup rings will be properly lined up when the final install is ready to be done but this sort of gives the vibe: It's not over until, etc, etc, but I'm really pleased with how this has turned out so far
  8. 3 points
    Looking good. For a stained finish I usually apply a first stain just to find the scratches. Theoretically, you can see most of them just by wiping a damp cloth over the surface. But if you do there seems to be ALWAYS ones you miss that jump up and scream at you just as you apply the first 'proper' stain coat. So I kid the blighter into thinking it IS the first stain coat! These guitars think they're cleverer than us. Psychology...that's what you need. Psychology.
  9. 3 points
    So I finished up the other part of the tailpiece. Having now made the two parts I know that they are looking ok and I'll mock everything up again when I make the working templates out of thicker MDF. I'll probably remake them both for the actual guitar as there are a couple of errors. I put too small of a radius on the curve of the retaining bracket which means the harp is not moving freely enough when the two pieces are together and I had a few holes that wandered a bit from centre when they were drilled (that'll teach me for being lazy and not using a centre punch before drilling).
  10. 2 points
    As @Norris said, planing the surfaces flat is the first thing to do. Opening the mouth for strength is another good idea. If you think about howling, there's two parts: "Ho" with the mouth open and "wl" with the jaws more closed. @ScottR's idea of using glue and gauze or other sheer fabric is also very recommendable especially in delicate areas. The idea is similar to laminating fiberglass. When you've got the thickness right, laminate the fabric to the inside before cutting the hole. Then chamfer the inside edges to make the top look thinner and to hide any sticking thread ends.
  11. 2 points
    With Tom's African Bass Mk2 getting pretty close, it's time to start thinking about the next full build. And I'm a bit excited about this one. Does anyone remember this SG-influenced neck-through build I did a few years back for one of our band members, Pete? : And those with REALLY long memories, anyone remember this own-design I built for myself in Yew? Well, both guitars are still in use. Pete & I are still playing (or were until the recent UK lockdown!) - him lead guitar and me vocals & sax. And at one of the places we regularly play, another player - Matt - has started making pickups. And for his first attempt at humbuckers I offered the Yew guitar above as the test bed. So Matt has been playing that for the past few weeks. Matt has drooled over Pete's SG for some time. But he was also a bit bowled over by how good Yew can look once it's been carved and varnished. So the new project is an SG-style guitar made for Matt....made with a Yew top. And I just happen to have a book-matched set that has been languishing in my shed for years : And I'm excited because - although you have to be very careful routing and sanding Yew because it is pretty poisonous - I found it a nice wood to work with...and this is going to look FABULOUS And, let's face it, it's not like I'm going anywhere else over the next few weeks...
  12. 2 points
    So I'm now "furloughed". I'm not actually allowed to do any work (on my day job) but still being paid. It's a tough job but someone's gotta do it I don't think I can drag this build out for much longer though I've gone over the body with 6000 grit micromesh. Not to remove every imperfection, more to knock down any dust particles, even out the wipe marks and check over the fine details. I've cleaned out the jack plate recess - a lot of scraping with a razor blade. Then a good polish with Meguiar's ultimate compound and the body has come up rather nice I left the Tru Oil to harden off for a good week before polishing and am rather pleased with the results. I'll confess that I wasn't sure if it would be hard enough to polish, but there you go. I made a bit of a start on the neck, knocking back a couple of minor runs, but that's tomorrow's job - and it will be a semi-matt finish, 'cos that's much nicer than a full gloss when you have sweaty hands.
  13. 2 points
    It didn't take terribly long to cut but - because the neck incorporates the neck angle which means you need to know exactly where the body is going to join - it took an age to draw, calculate, check, recheck and check again! But the side profile of the neck blank is now cut: And, hang it, let's have the first mock-up
  14. 2 points
    Thanks for the encouragement everyone - as it turns out, I live in Maryland and we were just put on "shelter in place" orders the other day, and unfortunately I'm currently hunkered down in a location away from home and (horror of horrors) away from my tools. Not worth explaining why I suppose, but suffice it to say I'm suddenly not sure when I'll be able to dig in on this build after all! Things are changing hour by hour it seems. Hope you are all safe and healthy!
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
    The upper photo is a perfect match with the text! You tell it's the most pleasing and satisfying job and the twilighty warm hue of the image perfectly accompanies what you're saying. The plane handle is just waiting for one's hand to nurture the wood with a properly sharpened blade...
  17. 2 points
    Today I shaped the bone nut and cut the grooves with the nut slotting jig I from Halon GMI in Greece. You can make a precise nut in a jiffy!! I prepared the slot with the slot shaping files from stew mac and it sits tightly on the spot! I also finished shaping the volute and back of neck, so more shellac was applied.
  18. 2 points
    Well, some more details done - bridge pup fitted, routed some relief for the pickups wiring/drilling and routed shallowly, then chiseled the cavity. I was kinda afraid of routing it, but this was stress free and worked OK. I'll pretty it up with a dremel sanding drum a bit later. Recess for the cover was all chisels, didn't want to marr the surface with my dremel router base.
  19. 2 points
    see all these folks on facebook complain about having to be isolated and alone at home... and I'm like "welcome to my world". total hermit here and I like it that way. Wish I didn't have to go into work (I could totally do all my work remote), but I'm thankful to have a job. Can't say that much has changed for me other than lighter traffic and using more hand sanitizer.
  20. 2 points
    All strung up with the glu boost on. Just making a panel for the back now...ofcourse me routing for a trem left an annoying hole...I changed the bridge plate for a spare piece of Ziricote, looked classier to me and gave me chance to add a little logo. Hope everyone is well!
  21. 2 points
    I sprayed the final coats today. I had 250ml of lacquer and 30ml of thinners and thats all I had left so I mixed that and had just enough to get the job done, feel very lucky! The weather was good. It was 71 degrees, very slight breeze and overcast The gun was still not spraying very well. I believe the fluid needle is worn and the mix is not atomising very well. In any case the finish is very orange-peely but it seemed to smooth out as it dried. There are no dry areas and no runs and I will see how it looks in a couple of weeks!
  22. 2 points
    I'm thinking of calling it "Patience"
  23. 2 points
    Come here, poor folks, the local cheap store has a bargain: 56 rolls for €10!
  24. 2 points
    I meant to mention...that I love the F-hole. That sounds so dirty... Which in a guitar is actually a good thing. It's good to hear from @Muzz. He once had the distinction of authoring the longest running thread, POINTY STICK, I do think @Norris has probably usurped that honor by now though. SR
  25. 2 points
    ...and now, the scary part for me in this build - drilling and routing the electronics cavity: shallowly drilled the pot holes, 8mm then from the other side, -5mm with the 35mm forstner, followed by 25mm forstner then, making the template, forgot to take the finished pic - I might not even use it for routing, but did use it to draw out the contours of the cavity on the bass carved the corners of the pups with dremel and the inlay bit and chiseled the sides the neck one fits, will have to chisel the bridge one some more.
  26. 2 points
    OK - this is about as nauseatingly smug as I can get. This is what Matt posted on his Facebook page about the first of the videos: “This one is the first featuring my beautiful Swift dreadnought - possibly the deepest, yet most balanced and sparkly guitar I’ve ever experienced. That’s why I chose to film one of my favourite acoustic pieces – Pat Metheny’s Map of the World. I felt this gave a great insight into the clarity of the instrument and a strong indication of how the tonal depth is still there in spades despite the 5th fret capo. The original is arranged for Pat’s short scale guitar and string section, but this is just naked dreadnought wonderment!” That's it. My work is complete. Covid-19 do your worst! (actually, Covid, skip the last bit if you would. Just a glancing blow maybe. Or even passing on the wind the other side of toughened double glazing might be penance enough. Or better still, the next county. OK, time for pleading: I promise never to be smug again. Honest! Please don't give it to me!!!!)
  27. 2 points
    This has been finished for some time so some pics......
  28. 2 points
    Exactly. The fixes I was referring to would be something like - cutting just inside the line, but then you make a little boo boo outside the line. If I was doing the stonedust/CA method, then the "inlay" is now has that boo boo. I'd have to use a sheet of teflon and dam the mistake, fill the gap with ebony powder and CA to fill, sand after dry. Could get hairy fast. @Prostheta You are right, I need to make sure frets are at width, do a final scaling, re-adjust the length of the tentacles, then print it at 100% and lay it on the table. Then, start the long process of deciding which areas will be individual pieces, cutting it apart into those individual pieces, matching the cutouts to raw pearl stock I have, and numbering them. Basically setting up a game plan. The thing is, I have to decide my process first. For pearl, you cut the pearl piece, affix it to the fret board, scribe around it, then excavate. I can't excavate, see how it goes, then decide to cut pearl. For what it's worth, I just bought 1/2 pound of pearl slab from Allied as well as a long truss rod. What I think I'll do is print out, lay it on the table and stare at it. Then lay the Dremel tool on it with my smallest chucked bit and fake trace around it to see if my balls shrivel up or not.
  29. 2 points
    As life has changed everyone lately, I managed to get in the shop today and remove the back of the CTH acoustic hybrid. I now only have to make a temp back that will be held on by 20 screws so I have the ability to remove it and test processes to improve bass response. I will be using a calibrated mic and TrueRTA analyzer software combined with my oscilloscope to produce (hopefully) the best response for this body volume and size. I know the pictures suck. LOL!! Thanks MK
  30. 2 points
    I know this is an old thread, but I did promise to post the link when Matt finally got round to doing a proper video playing his dreadnought. And here it is. As always with these things, best through headphones Assuming you do like it, remember to 'Like' it - pro & semi-pro musicians need all the help we can give them in these unusual times Thanks for looking
  31. 2 points
    Designing the headstock, trying hard not to copy an existing shape. Before I get a cease and desist order from someone
  32. 2 points
    Thanks As @Bizman62 says, they are superficially similar but completely different in other ways. Fascinating species and, to my wife and I, their arrival in May (from S Africa) hails the start of summer and their early departure (August) hails the coming of autumn. As with many bird types, I'm afraid, they are dramatically reducing in numbers - we normally would have 3 - 4 pairs nesting in our roof eaves each summer, but that has recently dropped to 1 or 2 and last year there was just 1 pair and they didn't fledge. Because they fly low and fast, they are particularly susceptible to the miles and miles of invisibly fine netting that some of the folks in N Africa and other countries have started putting up to catch them and where they are treated as delicacies. As they always return to the 'home' nests, their flight paths are very predictable and it is possible to wipe out a species in a very short period indeed. Funny old world. In the spirit of shared responsibility, of course, I suppose the same could be said of rosewood...
  33. 2 points
    Refined the inlay some more, it's more inline with a Cthulhu vs an octopus. Similar to the one in my avatar. I need to scale it down a little I think, but it's getting close. There are still some rough bits where I was connecting the center design with the extended tentacles. ignore it for now. This certainly isn't getting any easier to pull off LMAO. I'm trying not to think about that part too much. EDIT - even further tweaks, getting the tentacles to flow better
  34. 2 points
    Got a little demo recorded this afternoon. Cheers!
  35. 2 points
    It's been a while since I've posted because I've been occupied with other life stuff but I got a chance to get back into some guitar stuff and start making the tailpiece.
  36. 2 points
    I had to use some lacquer thinner and a razor blade to get the double sided tale adhesive off. As long as the grain is jumping, I might as well take some glamour shots. SR
  37. 2 points
    Here is my design, it will have arch top type bracing ( they will most likely get shaped as well) . The top will end up at 0.1875 thickness. The bridge will change as that one design did not work well in my tests. There will also be an under the top plate about 0.125" under the bridge saddle area.
  38. 2 points
    Definitely! I’ve tried it before using just tape, and since the dye is so viscous there’s always bleed and it’s really hard to get clean lines after that - even razor scraping leaves a sort of soft edge when I’ve tried it. Thanks! Definitely the most risky I’ve been with edges/sharpness, and it’s been fun to try something new. I’ve decided to name this guitar The Hatchet due to its sharp edges Alright, finally got to my favorite part of the build process today: color! The body came out plenty dark so the neck can stay as is. I was planing on screws for the cavity cover but had some magnets left over from a previous build and decided to use those. Base coat of blue, and a little truss rod cover I cut from some some scrap rosewood and colored with the same black stain as the fingerboard. First coat sanded back. Second coat with a lot more green mixed in. Second coat sanded back. Final coat leaning a bit back towards blue. I absolutely love the dying process, it’s easily my favorite part of the build; something about the magical transition from “guitar shaped hunk of wood” to “hey this is turning into an actual instrument” just does it for me. The color tests didn’t have me convinced I would get a rich enough color, but this looks great to me, and it will only get deeper once I put some lacquer over top. Despite wiping after each coat of stain, some color did build up on the binding, but I’m fairly certain I’ll be able to scrape it off before my first coat of clear as it’s floating on top of that sealing lacquer I put on yesterday. Once I get a couple coats of lacquer on both pieces I’ll glue up the neck, as I figure this will let me take off excess glue by just scraping down to the lacquer, that way I don’t have to risk scraping any of the color out when I clean up the joint. Definitely going to mask off the glue-contact areas to leave them raw though. I also won’t drill the bridge until I have the neck glued, as I don’t trust any measuring/marking I do to locate the studs until that neck is actually in there. Got some bad memories of uh, certain... adjustments... I had to make with previous builds.
  39. 1 point
    Yes - when I bought the wood, I thought that too. But when I put the paper template over, it just didn't work - when the major bout was right, the tips of the horns were then right in the fragile, knotty wood. I might even have problems with the smooth curves of that main bout, but at least it's got half a chance of not falling to pieces Having worked with Yew before, I also know that those subtle, plainer areas at the two horns will turn spectacular as the chamfer carve cuts through the grain
  40. 1 point
    HI all, Let's start with the new Cut Horn Hybrid Acoustic/Electric. It is still in prototype at this point. The body blank is 15 pieces of Nogal ( peruvian walnut) that was scrap. I cut all to size on the table saw and did the glue up. After that it went to the CNC for surfacing then on to the rouging of the body cavity. After that went to finish cut the body cavity minus cutting out the control panels. I cut the top from a mistake in book match from one I planned to use on the CH Bass, the current sound hole is not to final size. It fits nicely. It already has a great tap tone. Next will be, on to making the sound hole insert, braces, and under saddle plate. The will make the bridge plate and finish cutting the pocket to match a few of my extra necks I have. Once that is done then will continue with the electric process of this one. where it is going. Where it started yesterday and where it is today.
  41. 1 point
    True. But as hard as I try to be perfect, I keep coming up short. I've concluded that in the meantime I need to get real good at fixing mistakes. SR
  42. 1 point
    My thinking is that if I were to flood the fret slots with very thin CA, it may enter the end grain and stabilize the slot edges some. Using it as a finish later on larger surfaces, may have a stabilizing effect instead of just oil finish. Thinking out loud here. I've seen whole guitars finished with CA before.
  43. 1 point
    The initial symmetry is priority methinks.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Through various circumstance changes we had to re-allocate rooms in the house which gave me the oppotunity to build a work bench in what will become a workshop come storage area. The bench is made from 3x2 with 25mm mdf top (flippin' heavy) and is 2400mm x 800mm (8 foot x 31") with a shelf underneath made from the remaining mdf ( originally 8x4 sheet.) The corner support pieces will be glued to the top and then screwed into the frame, And the front 120mm Apron was glued to the frame which really stiffened up the whole thing. Everything else is screwed. In the 3rd pic you will see three dog holes in the vice face piece which accept the dowels from the Ash strip in the 4th pic, this enables pieces to be secured whilst planing. I installed the vice 25mm below my original plan due to brain fog but it works fine. There is a lot of room to add other components as and when I think or see something I like. And it was finished with three coats of Patina.
  46. 1 point
    Some more work done in the last few days - mostly sanding and filing, but also some routing: roughing in some more facets with a file and got to something like this lower horn is still squareish, will get to that, and then some old school drawing, regular paper, transfered to thicker paper for better handling, and redrawing as needed to thin paper again, glued to some 8mm mdf stock. Pups were drawn directly from the master paper template. Cut on the scroll saw, some adjustment with a file, and secured with the double layer of the double sided tape, and routed to -17mm. I'll have to get the sharper corners by hand a bit later and then finally sanded the curve in the top, still keeping the bridge area flat (marked) just some more pics and details I still have to carve/file/sand in - I think the top and the back curves are nicely visible now
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    You have got to be absolutely stoked about the way that sounds! Brilliant! SR
  49. 1 point
    Any bare wood will dye. Any place you still have lacquer in the pores will not dye with a water based dye, but will with an alcohol or reducer based dye (lacquer thinner, acetone etc.) SR
  50. 1 point
    I think today is my last one on Tom's African bass until I get the hardware that he has ordered from the US (and which, I suspect, may be some time coming) so tomorrow I will be gathering together the timbers. The plan is to maximise the number of pieces of timber I already have lying around and other stuff I already have at hand. The guitar will be a through neck with the same basic construction as Pete's red one: I'll make it thinner than Pete's which will make the neck heel even more unobtrusive than this one. The control chamber cover will be matching Sapele in a recess for flush fitting with magnets. Matt will be making his own humbuckers for it and I'll be using as much hardware out of my 'bits box' as I can.
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