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Showing most liked content since 05/20/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 likes
    Not updated in a while but I've been busy. Top jointed and glued on. Initial routing done. I didn't use a template for the neck pocket but used the laser and two bits of wood to make a temporary guide, with two layers of tape to make a tight fit. Pickup cavities done and first pass at my body carve is done. A lot more work to do carving but for not much noticeable change. Just cleaning contours and smoothing now. Oh and decided on my f hole shape and mostly finished that. Needs refining but v pleased with the results so far. Also need to chop the section of neck out for the pickup. That's making me nervous! Measured lots and drawn it on and feels like v little wood left. The part under the pup will be 9mm thick. I guess the sides will help there. Eek!
  2. 4 likes
    This is my sample board for the finish. Several applications of a custom-mixed Tikkurila alcohol-borne stain (75% DC22 and 25% 720R I think) with French polishing over the top. The wood was sanded to 320 grit and given a single black Brummer grain fill. A few more applications of filler would get rid of the pores entirely instead of highlighting them, and we're undecided on whether to go for smooth or slightly textured. Both are nice. The chatoyance and bloom in daylight are astonishing as you'd expect from French polishing.
  3. 4 likes
    so @KempGuitars tru-oil masterpiece got me all worked up to move ahead with my hackjob here and see if I couldn't get a half decent result. . We had a sunny day (was supposed to rain- we missed it)- anyway- I plowed ahead and wet sanded with 0000 steel wool, wiped it down, and hung to dry. these pics are after 3 hrs of drying. I think I got the back pretty well filled, I am going to have to do the front over once I completely get the glue I missed around the neck and bridge (and tailpiece)- I want to have the back done so I don't have to worry about drying etc and can work on the front when I can sit down and really concentrate.. I am going to have to pull out my optivisors and sanding stick/mini chisels and heck maybe even the big ass card scraper I have and really be careful not to mess up the edges of the fingerboard, bridge and tailpiece. should have make sure I got all that squeeze out. shoulda coulda woulda. I thought I did. Eyes are not what they used to be I guess. Lesson (I already knew) learned again.
  4. 4 likes
    Here is one other project i didnt really plan on. My local wood store got in some 8/4 zebrawood, and i had always wanted to do a zebrawood carved top.
  5. 4 likes
    I also got the curly maple/zw/walnut pg17 to the same place as the n12. I'm totally in love with how these 2 turned out.
  6. 4 likes
    I havnt done much guitar works for months. After a lot of personal life stuff that really got me down, i finally got a little motivation to finish up a few projects i have here.
  7. 3 likes
    Flame body sprayed today with Blue to Magenta Borosilicate and Orange / Red2Gold inside the scallops to match the hot rod flame cap. Now to store in front of the heater for a couple weeks.
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    I think everyone has their own way of doing it... You look on YouTube, for example, and you come away still asking yourself what's the right way. Initial coats are not wiped off, no. The trick is to keep it as wet as possible so that you see the streaks but don't feel them when that coat dries. I would leave usually 12 hours between coats, but you can get away with 6 hours if it's weather like we're having now (mild/warm). When sanding, I leave it 24 hours since the last coat and use thinned out Tru-Oil (50:50 with spirits) and a light wet&dry paper (at least 800 grit)... This will prevent the gummy mess you've experienced.
  9. 3 likes
    Yeah Scott, that's normally how a mandolin burst is done. I'm not set on doing that though. I'm not planning on binding the back, and am still waffling about whether to bind the front or not. I really like how the hook/scroll looks unbound. If I don't bind either and end up doing a burst I will probably do the sides in the darkest color of the burst. Even if I bind the top I may do that anyway, so that I can just continue the burst onto the back and give it a nice organic look. Anyway, I enjoy toying with these details in my mind and will make the decision when the time comes, and not before. As far as the 1918 F4, my wife and I were visiting Nashville for my 40th birthday, nearly two years ago now and so of course we had to stop in at Carter Vintage and Gruhn's, just to noodle around. Well, I saw the F4 at Gruhn's and played around on it for a while. My wife loved the antique look of it and said, "You need to buy that". Well, I hadn't been planning on buying anything, but we left for lunch and I thought about it for a while, came back and bought it. She twisted my rubber arm. She's a good woman.
  10. 3 likes
    I saw this in the flesh on Saturday (then went straight away for a few days, hence the delay in response). Ladies and gentlemen, it is simply SUPERB. Here was a very poor shot of what is a very good build: Now, don't get me wrong, I'm pleased with what I do. But the sheer quality and precision of this above is just mind blowing. And when @Norris went through the things he didn't think were quite right, I giggled a lot....a LOT....and then tried to find a rooftop high enough to fling myself off
  11. 3 likes
    I had family in town over a long weekend and did not get a whole lot of time in this piece of ash. What I did get done involved slimming the front legs and feet and shrinking the head some. Can you see the weight loss or do these pictures make Cody look fat? SR
  12. 2 likes
    as luck would have it, I just happened to be cleaning out some items in my garage, in hopes of getting it somewhere as neat as @mattharris75's and low and behold I had some old skiing stuff (a SWIX bag that came with cross country skis I bought in 1989- it contained some wax, tools, file, and a couple of scrapers!- including a small card scraper!). Pretty pathetic I had this all these years and had no idea. happy accident as I was going to go to Rockler or WoodCraft tomorrow- but those stores are about 45 miles from me and I hate driving down towards Atlanta. started with a small chisel but started to get dips and more wood than I bargained for so- .perfect time for my new found scraper. and some wisdom from my avatar: sourced from http://www.eurotrib.com/story/2007/3/9/653/57005
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    So it turns out I cant be trusted to finish one before starting another, though at least I finished the clamps. Top and back joined for the cutaway guitar. Same basic design as the first, but with a cutaway, bevels and purfling on the back. I've to ditch the white veneer for purfling and cut maple stripes instead using a nicely flamed neck blank that's wide enough to lose a few mm. happiness is a sharp scraper, though my thumbs will have something to say about that tomorrow.
  15. 2 likes
    thanks for the kind words guys- but I have a long way to go to making this look good. I am going for the warm hand rubbed look on this one. I see I have more sanding though as there are a few spots of glue still- damn- but- hey- bright side is I get to finally use the stew mac sanding stick I bought eons ago and maybe used once. so- 3 coats of watco teak oil so far- its now starting to not soak in in places as you can see in the pic- one more coat- then wet sand/slurry fill tomorrow which may prove tough since there is both light and dark wood here. without flash with flash
  16. 2 likes
    +1 on ruination down 1.5 lbs for the week. .I'm in process of trying to "reverse" my eating habits- ie- little to no breakfast, normal lunch, big ass dinner, trying to go big in the morning and I just have never been a big breakfast kind of person. I am forcing myself to eat big in the morning and I am still eating (big) in the evening. grr. but beer aint off the menu. So- this evening after my wild rice/Portobello mushrooms and chicken dinner- had my dessert of carbs-(truth be told- we had friends and family over tonight. my bride was mixing up Moscow mules and wine spritzers and such. I stuck with BEER. hoppin frog out of Ohio - Gangster IPA- 7.5%- not bad at all- at first look at this I would have passed but a lesson in don't judge a book by its cover. 2017's Hoptinum from Sierra Nevada - I am happy to report this is more like the 2015 version and not the 2016- which I found very (extremely) resinous and (brutally bitter). This is bitter-but no where near like last year-way smoother and I like it. also comes in 6 pack vs 4 pack last year (about same price) and lower abv this year (9.6%) and the best of them all- I have been waiting for this for months- and it finally came- Hawkbill from Burial out of North Carolina. totally digging this stuff- somewhat juicy- but a lot of stuff going on in both the flavor- and the aroma- you get hit with those citra hops (kind bud/pine/citrus) smell- then half way thru the glass you pick up other stuff going on in both taste and smell. Digging this- still like the Surf Wax IPA better- but this is a very extremely close second and will buy it when available.
  17. 2 likes
    Thanks Scott, glad you like my choices... I'm not fan of maple tops and trying to find a wood which looks simple, elegant and doesn't need any kind of stain, dye or sunburst... but I must say that there is some randomness in the process, as you never know what you will get from Madinter. I've ordered a Madagascar rosewood top and they sent an Indian one. But I'm happy with it, I think it looks awesome as soon it gets some spirits on it. Glueing and routing was a hard job, but life is easier with a robosander, I highly recommend it. So this is ready for neck attachment, which means "I need a neck"...
  18. 2 likes
    Local team. You'll all know the CCCCC IPA by now (kicks Stone's IPAs in the knackers) so I thought I'd give the Pilsner and Mandarin IPA (translating "mandariini" isn't beyond you guys, but hey) a shot. Saison De Randonneur should be available shortly also. Got to run....quesadillas on the table....will give brewer's descriptions later....
  19. 2 likes
    I have no experience with the Godins, so I can only speculate what might be the issue. It sounds like a grounding problem, but I note that some people on the internet mention that the mag pickup passes through the preamp first, so unless the 9V battery is installed you may get strange results. Other people mention that the strings are infact ungrounded, and the pickup needs to have special shielding in order to be hum-free. If the pickup in your guitar isn't the original GAHN1 unit this could also be an issue. @ScottR - We Australians have mastered the art of time travel and are now 17 hours into your future. You can thank me yesterday
  20. 2 likes
    Ah, you're making a chair!
  21. 2 likes
    Thanks Prostheta. I have a modest setup, just adequate for what I do; 260mm planer thicknesser, pillar drill, 12" bandsaw (behind the camera), oscillating spindle sander and a couple of 1/4" routers...
  22. 1 like
    Matt- I am up 85- northeast of Mall of Georgia- in between Hamilton Mill and Chateau Elan exits. and still not far enough away from Atlanta
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  24. 1 like
    That all depends on how you wipe it off. If you go with the grain, you are more likely to pull the slurry out from the pores. Going against it is better. The same applies when ragging off pore filler. @KempGuitars - a satin finish is preferred in my book also. Gloss is slow and tacky. I know we won't tend to contact the board as much as the back of the neck, but it still happens.
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    OMG! I think I'll give up now! Great work!!!
  27. 1 like
    Good luck with the build! I am also a first timer.
  28. 1 like
    Ehh, sounds like wood to me. Looks like someone dissected an instrument on my work bench... The top is getting pretty close now. Still have some work to do in a few spots, but it's getting closer. Using a scraper on the redwood isn't so bad, compared to a chisel, but you do have to be super conscious of the grain direction. I also ordered some Transtint Brown Mahogany dye to play with. So, I'll be experimenting with that this weekend, along with dark vintage maple and honey amber as burst colors.
  29. 1 like
    Regardless of this derailing, I think your own Tru-Oil technique is down pat if that Wengé is anything to go by.
  30. 1 like
    For the record, the Shark was a candy clear over unstained Quilt Maple. As per StratsRdivine's post.
  31. 1 like
    I felt motivated to sand up a scrap of Maple up to 400 grit and apply some of the Osmo silk finish oil to see how it protects it and what kind of look it imparts. If this is attractive enough, I might be tempted to make the multiscale Tele for the season one build an oiled Maple board.... Those tins are about €15-16 here, so maybe £13? For 125ml I can't remember how that stacks up against Tru-Oil, however I suspect it is broadly similar for the small amounts we use on instruments. 2,5l (we go through a lot of this at work) is about €94. About thirty minutes or so later I wiped the excess off. This can be left to dry as-is if needs be. It's a hot day today in Finland so it's setting up a lot faster than usual. I was lazy with the end grain.
  32. 1 like
    That's exactly it, and I agree that the huge number of personal methods described out in the wild serve mostly to muddy the waters. I think an overall methodology of what to aim for and what not to do is probably better than some "one single way". Simple oil and wax finishes seldom have one way anyway. My own method differs in the initial flood coat, which you don't wipe off. I do. However, I watch the oil for an hour or two on the initial flood to see which areas are still sucking up the oil, and squeegee or apply some around that area. After that couple of hours, I wipe everything off until the surface of the wood is lightly oily-feeling and not wet. That's left to dry as it will, with an inspection every few hours to check for oil leaking out from anywhere, and to give it a quick wipe. Then comes a wet sand with oil to raise a slurry if needs be, and subsequently just light wipes to build a sheen. I don't think it's easy to go wrong with Tru-Oil. All apart from trying to work it when it gets gummy, or letting it corn out your sandpaper like you've been getting, @Mr Natural. That sanded debris needs to go somewhere, and it likes to stick to itself, so it corns up. The same happens removing wax (I do this at work when making transparent two-stage wax finishes, a bit like a sandback....kills your abrasives) or if you need to sand shellac.
  33. 1 like
    Truly, you are a Tru Oil master. I've used it to finish a number of instruments, and it's always come out pretty well, but not without some fussing. So it's nice to get some tips and tricks from someone who clearly has had a lot of success with it. Thanks!
  34. 1 like
    Hi Prostheta. That Ziricote top was ordered in from the US a couple of months ago (from eBay, of all places). Very nice but not as thick as I'd usually like so I'll be rounding over the edge of this DC. I can't remember the seller's ID but search for Ziricote tops and there should be quite a few results from the same place. Thanks pan_kara. As it looks in my last post, there was about 16 coats (applied 12-24 hours apart). Every four or five coats, I wet sand back with thinned Tru-Oil and 800 grit paper. It takes quite a bit away but the Wenge pores can be quite deep and we're going for the full pore fill on this one. When applying coats, I wipe on wet but not enough to drip and then just work it into the pores/grain in a circular motion and then repeat following the grain just to the point that you can see the wet streaks but, again, not dripping. It's not finished yet but after the final wet sand, I'll start using thinned down Tru-Oil for smoother, glossier coats. I hope this helps... And makes sense
  35. 1 like
    That's what I'm thinking too. I just find it rather hard generally to imagine how it's going to look "in real" and so I've probably tended to feel more on the secure side with the "classic" horn-shape. nice! I wasn't aware of the BC Rich models actually, really neat looking guitars! Thanks for your reassurance! I'll stick to the original plans then. If everything works out I'll be able to start building next week! Next steps will be lasering (or routing) the templates and wood selection. My grandfather used to keep a huge collection of planks in his workshop which we began to sort a couple of weeks ago. Unfortunately I didn't get to really look out for suitable pieces, so that's still to be done - hopefully there's some clean wood I can use. Anyhow, as far as I could make out there's plenty of basswood, ash (european) and also some walnut and plum. (and tons of oak... but as I read it's not very recommendable; maybe as a top or for some part of the neck if I can't find something better?) cheers, Lukas
  36. 1 like
    so the last coat of oil I put on last night is basically sitting on the top and just ever so tacky- I think this thing is finally done drinking it up- usually two coats gets it but this took four- so I applied some more oil and wet sanded with 400 grit that I had soaking in oil over night. I still used the better part of a half sheet of paper as it loaded quickly and I didn't want to introduce any scratches from clumped up oil. I also tried my best to "stay in the lines sanding" that is- sanded the darker parts and light parts separately- still- as you can see in the pic- there is dark dust slurry in the light areas and light dust slurry in the darker wood. I hope this slurry fills up the wood and I can move on. I will let this dry for a couple of days since its so humid here right now and then probably wet sand with steel wool as I have done that in the past - it really leaves the wood as smooth as a baby's bottom. if this looks good after that- I may skip the poly all together (the fingerboard will still get poly though)- and wax the body and call it a day.
  37. 1 like
    Well that's mighty odd. My good lady wife wants similar things doing! You don't suppose they are related, do you?
  38. 1 like
    ... hm, how do you edit posts around here? Anyhow, here a the two final versions I will choose from. I think I like the one with the upwards-pointing horn a little better, but then again.... What do you think?
  39. 1 like
    Lovely feathered crotch figure there. Is that black walnut? It almost is colorful enough to be claro. It is amazing difficult to make complementary comments about crotch figure without sounding creepy. SR
  40. 1 like
    Having previously squared up the neck blank, we went for the scarf joint last night. I haven't got a huge amount spare on the neck blank, so had to measure and cut carefully Having marked out, I cut the angle on the bandsaw, then used a block plane to get the surface flat Then having done so, glued and clamped it, using a panel pin to stop it sliding apart The single-acting truss rod is on order, but I won't get it for a couple of weeks due to the public holiday next Monday. Still, that's plenty of time to get the body flat sanded and maybe even routed to shape if I have time. I'm trying to keep this build to the Monday night sessions for now to appease the good lady wife - who wants things doing to the camper, painting & decorating the house, sorting out the garden, etc.
  41. 1 like
    Talking of late night power tools....I discovered that this €600 Festool random orbit sander with a 60 grit pad works wonders for the hard skin on the soles of my feet. I might work my way through the grits and compound them.
  42. 1 like
    Scrapers aren't like firing up a 3HP router.
  43. 1 like
    I have worked on the Godin Piezo & Electromagnetic combo in the past and they're pretty straightforward. You will need to get in touch with Godin and ask them for the A6 Ultra wiring diagram. That should help is determining how its supposed to be wired in the 1st place. The A6 has treble/bass controls for the humbucker, which I believe are active. My guess is that the pickup was not installed properly with the tone/volume pot. Really, why do that when there's already an EQ on-board? Do the vol/tone only affect the humbucker? If yes, you could add a brass underplate under the bridge and ground that to the vol/tone pots.
  44. 1 like
    Piezo pickups do not rely on the conversion of an electromagnetic field to generate something that can be amplified. They rely on physical vibration to generate sound, and hence are inherently immune to electromagnetic signals. Mag pickups rely solely on sensing variations in electromagnetic fields, which makes them ideal for sensing the changes in the proximity of a steel string as it vibrates...and unfortnately ideal for picking up external noise from motors, radio stations, computers, light dimmers, switchmode power supplies, transformers etc...and us. I have no idea what's inside the Godin, but I would have to assume that it is something similar to the Graphtec Ghost preamp, where the piezo and mag signals are both run through the preamp where blending/volume/tone takes place, before being passed on to the two individual output jacks. Quite likely. A simple test to confirm this would be to plug in your guitar as before and check you have lots of noise, and then touch the metal outer case of your guitar lead while it is plugged in. If the buzzing goes away, the strings are ungrounded. Not sure. It's probable that the P90 would have to pass through the onboard preamp as the existing mag pickup does. However if the P90 is a true single coil you may end up with worse issues with hum and noise (I suspect that the use of a humbucker on this guitar is a deliberate design choice). Have you spoken to Godin to see if they have any advice on replacing the stock humbucker with a P90?
  45. 1 like
    Try Stone's Ruination IPA if you get a chance. Their regular IPA is good, but the Ruination is really really good.
  46. 1 like
    More food for thought. This thread seems to be from someone who modded their Godin A6 to allow the mag pickup to work without the aid of the 9V battery and preamp, but ended up with hum and buzz because of the ungrounded strings. As the strings appear to be normally ungrounded in the Godin (acoustic guitar-type bridge has no way of providing a conductive path from each string to ground), the preamp must have some onboard smarts to reduce the inherent noise from the mag pickup, so plugging in to the regular mag output without a 9V battery will give odd results. In addition, installing a direct feed from the mag pickup to a third output to try and bypass the preamp will result in hum and buzz, as there is still no ground on the strings.
  47. 1 like
    Aha! Imgur to the rescue! Here I am still getting the top trued up for flatness. Then I have to decide on how I want to carve the top...
  48. 1 like
    Nice save on the headstock! Loving the Languedoc vibe, it's really coming through. I sent a letter to Paul Languedoc, probably around 17 or 18 years ago, to see if he would build me a guitar like Trey's. At the time he wasn't building professionally, and wrote me back a nice letter saying that he was just swamped with other stuff at the time, but maybe one day.
  49. 1 like
    It's looking lovely. I do like your scroll
  50. 1 like
    I like that bit-in-the-box-o-matic!