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  1. 4 points
    Played around with some Pale Moon Ebony today More on this build soon...
  2. 3 points
    Once the headstock carve is done it's time to add fret locator dots and side dots, and then radius and polish the fretboard. I can't remember ever having as much trouble fretting as this board gave me. I set the depth guide and dressed the slots several times as I radiused and polished the board in the hopes that I could keep it pristine, while fretting. I apparently wallowed out the ends of several slots and they wouldn't grip the tangs. I had to pull several frets and fill the slots with CA, level and re-polish the board and re-cut the slots to get them to hold the tangs. other frets didn't want to go in deep enough, even though I repeatedly checked the slot depth. Finally I set the depth just a tad deeper and life got much easier. I ran out of daylight before I could get any fret dressing done, so that will be on the agenda next weekend. SR
  3. 3 points
    That white DC3 now ready to go. I wasn't sure about this body shape after making the Sapele archtop prototype in October. I said back then that I'd have to make another and paint it... Here it is and I'm happier with it now. DC3 #2: Alder body (flat top), 3-piece Wenge/Sapele neck (bolt-on), African Ebony fretboard (25.5" scale length), Gotoh fixed bridge/381 tuners, Irongear "Steam Hammer" pickups, coil split mini-switch and matte Signal White PU finish.
  4. 3 points
    way behind posting again-I have pics on my phone/pics on my camera and need to get sorted- the dates on the camera are all screwed up. also had a bit of an interruption with all the house guests I have hosted the last couple weeks and the weather has been extremely cold here-too cold to work in the garage. so- my shop vac bit the dust- thus the pile up on the router table- neck template done-luckily santa brought me a few home depot gift cards and a new shop vac has been purchased. making a headstock template to use with my (O'brien guitars) drill press routing method. does any one else use these little ruler thingys to pry up double stick tape (or in my case scotch tape plus glue?) these rulers are also the perfect size (with just a touch of sanding) for fret slot cleaning- pushing out sawdust/etc. i have 2 or 3 I actually use for measurements, and 2 or 3 lying around that have been sanded- used for anything but measuring I always love when a box from lmii or stewmac shows up. I had to order Indian rosewood fingerboard blank as I am completely out of IR. I think the last time I bought IR it was $8 or maybe $9 - its now $18. poof. back to the inlay- I sized the image I am using in MS Paint- and made multiple copies so when I cut out the piece parts I have clean edges on each piece. the bigger image below was just a tad too big, so- reused the paper and printed out a bunch of smaller sized images
  5. 2 points
    So I'll kick this thread off with a guitar I just finished today! It's a multiscale Wayfarer 6 with some of the coolest ash I've found yet. -Specs- Ash body Pau ferro neck and fretboard 25-26" multiscale Elysian Pickups Hellfire with Alnico 8 mag Hipshot bridge and tuners Jescar stainless steel fretwire Odie's Oil finish I've been playing with a really fun finish for my other current project, I'll post more details and pics on that one tomorrow.
  6. 2 points
    Those two definitely fell from the same tree. I agree with the black rings and think you also have a little optical illusion going on caused by the angled end of your fretboard. Angles like that are always good to include so you have a built in response when the "optical illusions" kick in. SR
  7. 2 points
    That center stripe of Katalox is super hard....and looks like a slice of steak. SR
  8. 2 points
    With the Switchcraft angled toggle and barrel jack arriving, I now am happy it's going to fit fine. The toggle switch is 21mm (and actually you could grind it down to shallower still) as compared with the short version of the standard toggle being more like 23mm. I'm not a massive fan of barrel jacks but the Switchcraft ones are pretty reliable - and this will be super-accessible if ever it needs replacing In the meantime, I've started the finishing using the Osmo Polyz 3011 Gloss for the body. Whereas I have had great success with the satins and half-matts (and also the whitened RAW), in my first trial a while back I had some issues with the gloss, having a reaction and wrinkling with the second coat. I suspected that it was me rather than the varnish so (probably adding the second coat a little too soon), as this one is for me, thought I'd try it again. I have a low personal tolerance with any 'reactive' finishes, but the potential of the Osmo (especially as Ronseal have changed the formulation of their standard polyurethane varnishing that has made wiping-on problematic) is so great that is is worth persevering. And so far so good. This was the first coat last night: ...and this is the second coat today: Both times just wiped on with a cheapo household micro-fibre cloth. The neck will be finished with the satin version, slurry and buffed I have high hopes
  9. 2 points
    I really hope so! Just wiring it up at the moment, then final polishing and setup. Also, here's a little throwback to the walnut topped strat from last year. I never posted final images and it just came in for a setup...
  10. 2 points
    Tru-Oil will always add a definite amber contribution to a finish, especially if the intention is to produce a reasonable level of build. The basic oil behind the dryers and additives is linseed/flax oil, which has a very distinct yellow to amber tint. To my knowledge, the blondest polymerising natural oil is safflower, and even then that is sort of like a platinum yellow. Sort of like the colour of the Groper-In-Chief's "hair".
  11. 2 points
    That's looking good. I did a double take after my first glance at the picture...it looked like you got the whole house loaded up on the trailer. SR
  12. 2 points
    Welcome to the madhouse. I can feel another 'Are You Being Served' moment just around the corner...
  13. 2 points
    That stained Sapele (thru-neck build) has now seen some Tru-Oil... And the front... In full...
  14. 2 points
    Next, we clean up and square up the sides and tenon. And on to the rabid beaver. Sadly, it got dark before he could finish his meal. He'll need to make a new reservation for next weekend. SR
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    i ended up having to use the fret slotting jig I made for a chapman stick size neck blank (not sure where my regular size jig went to), it requires a "carrier" lumber underneath- in this case- mahogany. I have sized it so that when the saw bottoms out" on the guide- the cut is deep enough in the slots. it works ok- but I miss my other jig-probably hiding down in the basement in some plastic tote packed away with a bunch of my daughter's crap.
  17. 1 point
    I finished routing the body this evening. First a pass with a top bearing bit, following the mdf template... Then removed the template and did a second pass. Finally flipped the body over and switched to a bottom bearing bit for the last pass... The little Makita router in the second photo is so much easier to use. It's very light, and held with one hand on top and a couple of fingers pressed down onto the base plate. It's a joy to use. The larger router was much more fatiguing, being much heavier and having a large cut out area in the base plate - that made it much less stable and lead to a 1mm deep gouge on the top horn because my arms were aching. The gouge will sand out, but was a bit disappointing as I was being very careful. Next time I'll just use the Makita. The class also have a bearing guide for it, which is what I used to cut the binding rebate on the Nozcaster - lovely bit of kit
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! Lookit her go. ....and HOW LONG IS THAT SPINDLE BODY?!
  20. 1 point
    Thanks Got the thru-holes done so I could line up things with a couple of strings threaded through. I think ( ) the slightly skewed look of the rings are camera lens bending (they measure correctly to the 22nd fret at least) but the black surround with gold screws have the edge, I think :
  21. 1 point
    calling myself out here- yes- I did it. I bought one. And it was delicious. you smell and taste the bourbon, without the punch of a higher abv- this was only 9.5%. I had to know. Was it worth $9.99 for the 12 oz bottle- no. Was the experience worth it. well...yes.....cause I had to know. I am that much of a beer dork.
  22. 1 point
    Very nice. Think you are right about the black pickup surrounds, although the gold aren't out of place either. Good call about drilling afterwards so the finish goes on more evenly.
  23. 1 point
    By the way - I think you can see the family resemblance!
  24. 1 point
    I'm probably at my final pre-coat. I'll let this harden enough to be able to de-nib / flatten and then wipe on the final coats. This is a decent time, therefore, to do the final build bits that might ding the finish. Today is fitting the bridge. I've still got to drill for the thru-body ferrules before I can string it up to fix the positions of the pickups, but couldn't resist a quick mock-up: When I do the pickup positioning, I will check the look of black pickup rings and gold screws rather than the above (which would be gold rings with black screws) and see what looks best. I suspect the black rings with gold screws might look the classier. Next jobs are bridge ferrules and fret levelling. I will drill the holes for the 3-way and toggles after the final gloss coats to reduce the possibility of dragging the Osmo unevenly across the holes.
  25. 1 point
    I'm honestly not sure My Rhoads and Alexi models look like they're 45°, but the Ran looks a looks a low shallower. Hopefully I figure that bit out well before I come to it! I did a lot of planing and glued a few things this weekend. The neck lamination has turned out really well, but I'm worried about how the body will be once I take the clamps off. Also, my bench planer has stopped working! It may have just got clogged with wood dust and overheated, so fingers crossed... Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr And the glue goes on: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  26. 1 point
    I was wondering how the electronics were going to fit in there. I had a friend try a 1.5 inch thick body (starting thickness)- but after sanding it came in around 1.3"- and he ended up having to put a thick control cavity cover and hollow out the inside of it- the flush control cavity hit the back of the switches and caused a ground/shorting issue with the emgs he had on there. looking forward to the finished product here Andy- I think the alembic style you did for Tim was your best axe to date. Hoping this surpasses that.
  27. 1 point
    @westhemann- my kinda rig- dont look pretty but works. aka- perfect. @MiKro- hope you got the tamiflu tabs started. news reported they are effective this year against this strain if started early.hope you feel better man- I know that sucks.
  28. 1 point
    Here we have my awesome trailer again (patent pending)
  29. 1 point
    If there is one word that exemplifies your builds in my mind, it is clean. Every thing you build just looks so clean and fresh.
  30. 1 point
    Great work man... not entirely fan of the body shape, but your guitars have their own personality, I must say. This last one looks really pro... love it!
  31. 1 point
    Yeah. Painting doors and windows isn't an option at this temperature, but I did install some glass and underpinning.
  32. 1 point
    Wow, you don't see things like that off the shelf. Love that 12th fret inlay too! haha
  33. 1 point
    Thanks! Well, I prefer to have one continuous surface for carving, since it involves scraping, sanding and finger planes, and a large hole like this neck pocket, extending all the way to the bridge or the pup holes could force some mistakes, like dips near their edges etc. It might not be a problem, but I feel safer this way. This top is fairly flat, so fixing the routing template with some tape should not be a big problem. Also, this is a one-piece body, so it could warp a bit. I will in fact clamp it down after routing just in case. I do my LP tops the same way, even though they have a more pronounced carve, and the pocket is much smaller. There are other approaches, but I feel safer with this one. BTW, you should definitely try to carve a top! I'll try to take a pic of my first try, semi hollow LP shaped monster Baseball bat neck, Bigsby, P90's...plays horribly, I should strip it and dress the frets, re-carve the neck etc.
  34. 1 point
    Yeah man, you don't see people use tru oil over dyed woods a whole lot but I've been doing it for years with refinishing and now in my building. Prostheta is right, it will add a slight amber tint to your color so I've always tested on scrap to make sure I'm gonna be satisfied with the end result. Which I almost always am. That blue semi hollow above has tru oil on it and I refinished an old ibanez s1620 in green which I really liked. I use transtint dyes.
  35. 1 point
    I should be OK. The drivers I'm using are generic M542's (similar looking, similar pinout, different specs), and the DIP switches appear to be doing the right thing.
  36. 1 point
    Nice one, Mike. You and I seem to have used a lot of similar electrickery components. I see a lot of familiar-looking parts in your control box. I'm within a hair-breadth of completing mine too. Just need to fit up the Z-axis limit switches and I'll be ready to destroy some endmills.
  37. 1 point
    The weather is going back to wasp killing territory, so I get to tear out the rest of the ceiling this weekend.
  38. 1 point
    You guys breaking into the beers and bongs a bit early,eh?
  39. 1 point
    I'm just impressed that he got it loaded up at all. SR
  40. 1 point
    Welcome! Not so long ago I was doing body shaping with a jigsaw and a robosander Good luck with the RG!
  41. 1 point
    Great looking RG body, nice piece of ash. I did also my first two bodyshapes with drill, jigsaw and router, that was a tough job.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    I dig And totally agree about guitars being lighter. Having made a couple of bantam-weight instruments in the last couple of years I can't imagine going back to the big heavies anymore.
  45. 1 point
    Tim isn't always a neat freak. I have evidence.
  46. 1 point
    Hard to tell exactly from the photos, and probably because it misses a part between the nut and a retainer bar, but the one one left should have the tuners rotated clockwise more than they are now. Looks like the string pull on thickest strings would end up getting inwards, to the centerline. I once threw away a nice flamed maple neck (finished and fretted) because I didn't consider that doing the wider nut would do that. It was functional, but looked too weird to me, and I couldn't accept keeping it like that. You should always draw the outer strings also (at least), to know what would it look like in the end, the centerline is not enough if you are gonna experiment with photos, nut width, etc. Here's one of my blueprints, (based on Ibanez, not exact replica) but keep in mind that the nut is a bit wider, and the tuners measurements are for the ones I used in a project. If the nut was narrower, the tuners would be rotated a bit clockwise in the drawing (or counterclockwise for non-reverse headstock). Also, if tuners had larger knobs, you would need more space between tuner holes, which would also end up with rotating them clockwise (or counterclockwise for non-reverse headstock), and a few mm longer headstock. In the end, small alterations in design doesn't have to mean in wouldn't be functional. I lost probably hours tweaking this one to my liking, and it probably could be even more precise, but it works great for me. If you want, I can help you with your blueprint, just send me your neck-to-be specs. Mods, if the picture is inappropriate, please delete, thank you.
  47. 1 point
    The old standards are always good. I got some Samuel Smith Oatmeal Stout too while I was there. Can't hardly beat that stuff for the price. Also got a pint of Lagunitas Imperial Stout. I'll probably save it for Christmas.
  48. 1 point
    Just a couple of pics of the latest Kemp Guitars custom DC that will be on it's way to Canada tomorrow. Yes, it's quite similar in looks and spec to some of my other recent work. However, aside from being a leftie, it's got a Half-fan multiscale fretboard with the revised 6-string scale lengths (25.5"-26") - which I think works better and really comes into play here as this guitar is setup with heavier 13-56 strings and is tuned to B standard... A perfect example of the need for a 6-string multiscale Full spec: Sapele archtop body, Wenge/Sapele 3-piece neck, Macassar Ebony Half-fan multiscale fretboard loaded with Jescar FW57110SS fretwire, Gotoh fixed bridge and 381 Magnum Lock tuners (Cosmo Black) and Bare Knuckle Pickups Nailbomb...
  49. 1 point
    You'll both be back. No-one gets out of here alive.
  50. 1 point
    Old Thread but I found it so I'm sure other people will happen across it too. The 58 and 60s have different dimensions in the wings but most of the dimensions are pretty similar. Note: I don't own either model. The following numbers are the result of internet research and a blueprint I've purchased from EBay, which I believe to be accurate. Don't take any of this as gospel but hopefully this will get people going. If you're dead set on a historically accurate repro.. buy a template. The neck is standard gibson. You should pick neck dimensions (width, thickness) that you prefer though IMHO.. unless it's more important to be historically accurate. These are my notes.. sorry if the formatting is a bit rough here. I've typed out all my notes and some are a bit jumbled. 1.6875" at nut 12.375" at 12th fret.. width 2.062" 17.805" at 22nd fret.. width 2.226" 60s neck Peghead Pitch: 17 degrees Thickness at 1st Fret: 0.800 Thickness at 12th Fret: 0.850 Heel Length: 0.625 Neck Joint Location: 17th fret Fingerboard Species: Ebony Scale Length: 24 3/4 in. Total Length: 18.062 Number of Frets: 22 Nut Width: 1.687 in. Width at 12th Fret: 2.260 in. 17 5/16" truss rod channel Fret markers should be at least .05" thick.. 1.3mm NECK: <-- '58? doh!! didn't make a note! Headstock 7" tip to nut Scale length 24.75" Fretboard length 17.8" from nut to 22nd fret. board should be ~18" Fretboard Width 1 11/16" at nut 2 1/4" at 22nd fret BODY: <-- '58 V Centerline Length 11 1/4" from the crotch of the V to the point where the upper curves end Width of body at shoulders (by neck).. where the curves turn into the outside strait length of the wings. 4 25/32" Curve radius for wings and crotch 1" radius (they follow contour of a 2" diameter circle) Outside Length of wings 19" flat.. from the start of the curves Height of wing, from centerline to the topmost or bottom most point of wings. 8 11/32" thickness of body 1 3/4" (I'd verify this if I were you) The 68 body is more pointy. The radius of the curve at the end of the wings and at the Crotch follow a 1 1/2" DIAMETER circle. I print some up off my computer (Adobe Illustrator) and trace them on the body. I've got my router template on order though so I'll just trace that when I get it. I hope all of this helps.. at least gets you started.