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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/11/2018 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Today I've been making the bevels os the truss rod covers made out of ebony. I did it with the help of the dremel and much patience, but the result well worth the effort. After that I polished and buffed. Over them will go my signature. Some pics: Scorpionscar
  2. 2 points
    its been an awful long time since I was on here and I have no idea why! for the last six months I've been working on this guitar. most of which was taken up by cutting out the tiny flowers - all 1300+ of them! I did this kind of thing before on an old shape and wanted to try it again, but make it better this time. today I carved the neck and all that's left is sanding and finishing pretty much. so anyway, some pictures. the front is carved (obviously) and the back is slightly curved from side to side - here with the branches on the top and laid out on the back heres the headstock mid binding - the branches go through the inner black and white - and then with the first bits of shell inlayed. and then headstock done this was the trickiest bit of the inlay - those pieces are tiny this is the back shoulder I didn't want to use any plastic parts (apart from the binding) so I tried to make a p90 cover out of maple - the holes ripped apart, so used a bit of ebano I got for the scratchplate on top instead, and im glad I did. I carried on the inly on the cover and plate graphtech got in touch with me (out of nowhere) and asked if I wanted a builders account, which was nice. so instead of the usual gotoh stuff, this one will have graphtech. and because of the builders account I thought hell why not, so its got a ghost bridge with acoustiphonic circuit too. here are the ratio tuners with the ugly (sorry) buttons. I've been so used to the gotoh 510's which are just sexy, so I got some wooden buttons and shaped them - you can see a botched attempt before I realised I could just print so outlines and stick them on instead of trying to draw around the buttons I had. like an idiot. and the ebony fits in really nicely with the p90 cover and plate - and jackplate/battery cover/circuit board holder. then I made some of those little clamps and got sticking it all together and here we are up to date. and in case you're wondering if you have to be a giant to pick it up - its hollow. I should probably have mentioned that bit. oh, and its about 60mm thick on the edge. the controls will be vol and tone for the p90, then a vol/push/pull for the ghost and a mini switch and here you can see that the inly from the front carries over onto the side and round onto the neck/heel. the sides and neck will be a dark colour so the branches will stand out more. as for the colour of all the sycamore - im thinking a sky blue from the top down, fading out towards the bottom with maybe some pink/purple in there too. I kinda want that look of those pinky purply clouds you get on an evening. I dont know. we'll see. oh, and for some reason theres no picture of the fretboard. but the inly from the headstock carries down onto it, and the inly on the body starts on the fretboard, and the markers are larger falling petals
  3. 2 points
    no chip out on the roundover. But- as previously reported- there was blow out when I did the pattern route-on that inner curve of the upper horn. the pic up above shows it after the roundover- and it patched up fine. the roundover I just did in two passes- like I always do (router table- not freehand)- took my time, and prayed (not for my guitar- just in general- I do that too when I build) and took partial pass and then full pass. got lucky especially since this is maple and I am cursed by maple. if it had been a les paul lower horn it would have spewed evil chunks of maple whilst laughing at me saying YOU SUCK DUDE>seriously. you can tell from the burn on the maple that I go VERY slow- like- too slow- but- it helps too. the router speed is fine- I just am slow. And yes Carl - I dont go near power tools (sans mouse sander) whilst I partaketh in the consumption of ye beverages. I hate having to concentrate too hard with a buzz- and power tools like driving do not mix. My stubs are stubby enough without an accidental trim here or there.
  4. 2 points
    sometimes i like making lots of holes. Its therapeutic. there are times when I just need to go mindless and stand there , pulling the arm of my drill press, making sawdust in the process. Its how I unwind. then I have to pay attention, cause the router is coming. The only thing that puts me in focus mode more than a router is a table saw. I really dont enjoy using them -but- they are useful tools. and we have a neck pocket. managed to get some superglue/masking tape on the face but that will sand out. Lots of sanding to due on this puppy, lot of tight inner curves ugh. I may actually put a throw switch on here-I was going to not have any knobs like the last ritter copy I did- but- I am thinking of putting a DPDT switch on this and wiring it for series, single coil and parallel.
  5. 2 points
    By the way - this gives some indication of how much wood is going to be removed!
  6. 2 points
    I initially looked at your mockup image and thought you were about to pull off some black magic and make a 4-stringed neck with a 3-tuner headstock. [Dammit. I've been foiled once again. How dare he make a more ridiculous bass than me. CURSE YOU ANDYJR1515!!!...and CURSE YOU AGAIN for having a screen name that is impossible to yell at the thundery skies while shaking my fist and acting diabolically...Oh wait...the fourth tuner is upside down....]
  7. 2 points
    This weekend I had the latest Stone Enjoy By, Sierra Nevada Hoptimum (always a favorite), and Prairie Artisan Ales Birthday Bomb! All good stuff.
  8. 2 points
    So I am pleased with the results. It does look a lot like MOP. Will look better when it has a clear coat on it. I did have a few small bubbles I missed. I can drop fill those with MOP Pearl dust and clear lacquer, so no big deal. Ended up taking off 0.020" to get past everything. While I did use white as the base color before the pour, I believe that maybe silver would have been a better choice. Will have to play with that.
  9. 2 points
    Updates are slow at the moment as I'm waiting on some parts to arrive for the CNC to allow the milling of the body to commence, but things are still crawling along behind the scenes. Unfortunately things will slow down again fairly shortly as I'm having underpinning and restumping work performed on the house and workshop. This afternoon I've dismantled all the dust collection ducts and moved a lot of the machinery around to allow the builders access to the foundations. I'm sure @MiKro can sympathise. So the trick with milling a complex shape on the CNC where features exist on both sides of the object (control cavities, neck pocket, pickup cavities, bridge mounting holes, string-thru holes etc) is to devise some way of flipping the workpiece to allow the machine to precisely align both halves of the milling operation. First order of the day is to make such a method doable. The easiest method I can come up with (and perhaps the preferred method for all you CNC ninjas out there) is to strategically install some dowels in the spoilboard and drill corresponding holes in the body blank that allow the job to be flipped front-to-back so that each half precisely aligns with the other. Step 1. chuck up a 6mm twist drill in the mill and add four holes to the spoilboard. For obvious reasons these need to fall outside the edges of the intended body shape. Please ignore the sooty skidmark in the middle of the spoilboard. That was from a previous experiment that we no longer mention in public for fear of looking like a bit of a twat (hint: wood on wood at 18000RPM heats things up fast).: Step 2: line up the body blank with the centreline on the spoilboard and drill 4x corresponding holes that occupy the same coordinates as the four we just added in the spoilboard: Step 3: Install 4x 6mm dowels in the spoilboard, flip the body blank over, 'plug' the body blank into the pins and drill the same 4 holes again on the back of the body blank: Which now gives me the ability to flip the workpiece over and mill all features on both faces of the body. Oh, and first look at the neck laminations. This is going to be a monster neck when complete. It's currently gluing up and currently clocks in at about 4 inches wide. God help me:
  10. 1 point
    Hello. I just stumbled on the site and thought i'd stop and say hello as it looks a useful resource for a complete novice (in every sense!). My little one wanted an electric guitar but every part of learning to play blows his mind. I thought we could have a bit of fun together and knock up a tea chest esque soundbox twanger stick type affair. It ended up going a little off topic and we knocked up this little baby monster out of an old oak table leg and a slab of counter top. Not having a workbench made it a challenge as building a guitar on a stone doorstep is not without its pitfalls but we cracked on with it anyway and ended up with this gnome sized 3 string 26" long fretless pocket sized metal guitar thing. He loves it and is starting to find his fingers, I now find myself thinking about making a sensible full sized guitar and hopefully picking up a few shreds of knowledge to get this and the next one sounding a bit better! If you can bear with me I'm sure mk2 will be a bit more in keeping with some of the other starter guitars here. Ta
  11. 1 point
    I haven't been on the site in a while. Its been very busy and we just put in an offer on this: https://www.realtor.com/realestateandhomes-detail/412-Glen-Ridge-Dr_Lancaster_PA_17601_M41836-67958 My daughter personally showed me the wood shop. Also, my brother-in-law told me he had a lot of wood for me to take...no charge. I know there is cherry, mahogany, walnut...I think there is even some maple in there. I may start building again...
  12. 1 point
    Been a while since I've done a build thread. I had actually come to the point where I had more guitars than I had room for and managed to sell a bunch off to free up space and reduce the collection to something more managable. I've still got a couple more I'd like to move on. However, extra space on the wall can only mean one thing - time to fill it up again! I've actually had the parts for this build for some time now, but as mentioned above I didn't want to start it until I'd made some room for it. And it will need some room when it's finished... In true curtisa fashion, this build will once again be a new thing for me and completely outlandish to boot. So... Target specs: 7 string fretless bass (you read that right, 7 strings!) Blackwood body with figured brushbox top 5-piece blackwood/sassafras neck with gidgee fretboard, 34" scale Hipshot A-type bridge in black Gotoh compact tuners, 4x3 configuration in black 2x Bartolini slim soapbar pickups Bartolini active preamp with 3-band EQ. Added risk/complexity - the body will be largely cut on the CNC (what could possibly go wrong? ) The blackwood body blank actually has a little bit of fiddleback figure and some sapwood which will remain when the outline has been cut, which will be a nice touch when it's all assembled and finished: The rough locations of the cutaways has been removed from the brushbox top, which will help minimise the number of clamps required to glue it to the body blank. The offcut will then be re-used as the headplate when the time comes: A couple of brads to help locate the top to the body while it glues up: And then clamp forest (plus curved clamping caul through the middle and a couple of breeze blocks for good measure). The reason I'm gluing the top early is because I want to mill the entire body in one go on the CNC, rather than mill the top and body separately and try and line them up afterwards. Could be a recipe for disaster, but I'm willing to take a punt:
  13. 1 point
    OKay I have the nut made and the nut slot is done. Now to start the finish on the guitar. I also have to drill the tuner holes and I have to polish the nut as well. I used an acrylic Pen blank for the nut it is 3/8*' thick recessed 0.225" It will be 1/2" tall out of the body.
  14. 1 point
    Nice. I like the way it is making highlights in your fret markers show up. SR
  15. 1 point
    Here are some long overdue pictures of the guitar on its first road trip. I bought a sewing machine to try my hand at making a travel bag as well. Some more shots taken outside I'm really happy with how it turned out. It plays and sounds great!
  16. 1 point
    Here I go again, Wife went to OK to dog sit this week for my daughter. I have the frigging pissed off cats. Boy it's going to be a fun week. NOT!!!! mk
  17. 1 point
    I'm familiar with that type of thinking. SR
  18. 1 point
    Thanks! I snuck in a quick photo before Jane's was delivered and after Pete had lent me his piccolo to take to a forum meet
  19. 1 point
    I'm not quite medieval yet Andy, but I seem to be getting closer to the threshold of old every day...er year. Thankfully the threshold of old seems to move out every year as well. SR
  20. 1 point
    Thank you kind sir. I'm pretty chuffed about that top myself. SR
  21. 1 point
    Wow! You masochist! Amazing work though
  22. 1 point
    Generally the thinnest materials are not that resistant to the solvents in lacquer, no. The decals I use are printed using an ALPS printer onto gossamer-thin waterslide stock. The inks can run if you spray heavy coats without doing lighter "dust" coats to seal it first. I did this with rattlecan 1k lacquer: The Maple was sanded to 600-800 grit and the decal straight to the wood, hence the slight crackling in the gold from the wood sucking solvents around the decal. A couple of dust coats were done by moving the aerosol 50% further back so the lacquer hits the wood almost dry. This is done a few times with time for the solvent to flash off in between. After the decal was adequately sealed I sprayed as normal.
  23. 1 point
    This archtop is very dear to me as it is not only for a dear friend of mine but it was also a super-fun platform to innovate on since I had control over most of the specs. Essentially I had to use black and white ebony, amboyna burl, and it had to be an acoustic archtop in my Model1 shape. Other than that the rest was up to me! So I played with some fun things like: A bolt-on version of my compound-bend all-access neck joint Radial purfling using burl Carbon fiber (neck, neck block buttresses, and laminated in pickguard) 3D printed structural elements (can't really see them though) Charlie Christian pickup Completely hollowed ebony bridge Oval hole and fan bracing Back-strapped diamond volute Here she is relaxing in her new home: The specs are: Curly maple neck, back & sides. Note: the back is domed like a flat-top not carved. Carved sitka spruce top with ebony binding and tons of crazy multi-layer purfling. Black & white ebony fretboard and tailpiece (veneered in normal ebony expect the "wings"). Hollow ebony bridge and CF-laminate ebony floating pickguard. Buffalo bone nut and saddle. 25" scale board with 12" radius and 1 3/4" nut. Finish is odie's oil neck with satin nitro headplate. Body is all done in an tru-oil with some additional wizardry to keep it from soaking deep into the top and potentially hurting the acoustic resonance. One thing I want to point out that doesn't matter for the final product, but I'm still proud of: I decided to fully hand gramil all the binding and purfling channels on this box. What a process... won't do it again... but glad I did it once so I can truly appreciate binding jigs and bearing bits! If you'd like to learn a (lot) more about this project, it's history, why the specs are what they are then feel free to waste 30 minutes here: Best, Chris
  24. 1 point
    Progress has been slow lately. Ive been super busy with work and other things. Today was the first time in a couple weeks ive had time to relax and work on projects. Camera was dead earlier, so no progress pics. But there is this...
  25. 1 point
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