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  1. 7 points
    Introducing the Pinky Dinky Mahogany/Alder 3-and-a-bit-piece SS body, Maple (reverse F-style) neck, Richlite fretboard, Gotoh fixed bridge (Cosmo Black), Gotoh 381 tuners (Cosmo Black), Irongear "Metal Machine" pup and Amaranth Red matte finish
  2. 7 points
    I decided that it might be a long time before I got another opportunity to make a headstock as unique as this one, so I think I'll forego the cap.....unless I decide it just doesn't work after the guitar has been assembled, at which point I shall likely curse and thrash about as I add a cap to a fully shaped headstock, which will be entirely more difficult. towards that end I removed the ledge I had created for the nut and will cut a new one after the fretboard has been located. I added a few coats of Tru-oil to the handle. It darkened the ziricote a bit, but should protect it from whatever mess my brother in law may subject it to. You may have noticed that I also have cut the top. I am itching to cut the fretboard, but am waiting for some new bandsaw blades that should have arrived but appear to be caught up in the holiday package delivery log jam.I had some bridge height corrections to make on the mandolin because I didn't take into account how much thickness I would lose while flattening the gluing surfaces of the top and body. While I'm waiting for new bandsaw blades I am preparing those surfaces prior to determining my neck angle and tenon depth. Cheers! SR
  3. 7 points
    After a bit more leveling, yet still matte, I had to have a few in the sunlight. This is closer to actual color...but still a bit hot from the direct sunlight. SR
  4. 6 points
    Just a little update. I finally got the Paduak SS sanded and a few coats of oil on it. Darkened up a lot, but is looking really organic.
  5. 6 points
    Time to finally wrap this up then. First of all some videos... Demo video: Dan's Demo Video First public airing: 25 or 6 to 4 Black Magic Woman Another Brick In The Wall Pt. 2 (My son playing bass) And then some photos... Thanks a lot to everyone that has followed this thread and given me so much encouragement & support throughout the build. To say that I am pleased with the outcome is a massive understatement. I had so many good & kind comments from the crowd last night when it was gigged for the first time (see video links above). Oh and in case you were wondering, I am the bass player - apart from the one song that my son got up to play on. It sounds like a proper telecaster too - which was one of my priorities for the build
  6. 6 points
    Finished: Custom 8-string KR3 - Buckeye Burl top on Swamp Ash body (wings), Wenge/Maple 3-piece thru-neck, Marblewood fretboard, ABM 3210s, Hipshot Grip-lock, BKP Painkiller (custom 16 degree baseplate) w/ aged cream coils...
  7. 6 points
    I decided to put a rose also on the headstock, to complement the inlay on the fretboard. This drawing is smaller than the others, because the flower has to go between the machine heads. I decided to inlay on the headstock also a drawing: the logo Delky. It's just a joke from school times, a nickname from my surname Del Col. The leaves are made with abalone paua, the petals are made with white mop and australian greenlip abalone. The contrast between the different colours of the shells helped me to give more depth to the rose. The writing is made with golden mop. As you can see on the picture, I always print several copies of the same subject, because each time I cut a piece of paper I ruin adjacent pieces. In the photo you can see the effect of the two shells used for the petals: the lighter stuff is white mop, the darker is australian greenlip abalone. Here is the writing made with golden mop. And this is the final effect when everything has been inlayed. I've also completed the flamed maple binding on the headstock. I have to improve my skills to cut miters
  8. 6 points
    For this guitar I wanted to do an intricate inlay and I choose one of my favourite subjects: roses. I started making inlays three years ago and it was immediately love with this technique. Most often I do small subjects like logos or writings, so this one is my second full fretboard inlayed. On the twelfth fret I decided to inlay a small ladybug (from which the name of the guitar) to vary a little and to create a colorful subject that stood out on the rest of the inlay. The drawing of the layout is always the most demanding part: I draw by hand, first looking for subjects, then marking them out with a pencil and finally creating the composition. This is a photo of an intermediate phase: frets 1-9 The final result is really similar to those drawing for children to fill with coloured pens When I have the final layout I cut all small pieces gluing them to mop, abalone, recon stones... and I start cutting with a jeweler saw. Here is the ladybug: red recon stone, ebony and white mother of pearl. She has no legs, cause they will be cut on the "leaf" where she will lay and later filled with epoxy mixed to ebony dust. Now the work is really repetitive: cut the piece, glue to mop, cut the mop, file blurry edges and start again. Sometimes pieces are really small! When I finish to cut all the pieces for a subject I glue them together, being careful non to leave gaps between the pieces. In the end this is the final result: approximately 250 tiles. Now is time to route the fretboard and inlay everything: to do it I use a Dremel with an aluminum base. All parts are glued with epoxy mixed to ebony dust which at the same time serves as glue and filler. This required near to 100 hours to complete. Cutting frets on this fretboard was really stressful! I don't have photos for next steps, but I bound the fretboard with the same flamed maple used for the body binding, I installed the frets and finally glued the fretboard on the neck.
  9. 6 points
    Next steps were binding and purflings. To cut the channels with the arm router was an easy task The most difficult part was to cut the channel on the cutaway, because in that position the channel doesn't lay on a plane, but it goes up after the horn and then goes down near to the neck pocket. To achieve it I used this jig with my Makita hand router The channel wasn't perfect, because the radius was too narrow for the jig to work correctly, but after some refining with a chisel it was acceptable. My aim was to do a flamed maple binding and a four parts purfling: ebony/golden mop/ebony/maple. Instead of using Zipflex for the central purfling, I decided to do it the old way, using teflon strips and then filling the resulting channel with mother of pearl strips. This is what I wanted to achieve: First of all I prepared the binding: I cut the maple 1.5mm thick and 6mm large, then I glued a subtle strip of ebony under, so I could have a black purling line between the maple binding and the ash body Now it was time to glue the purflings, using the teflon strip instead of mother of pearl. Teflon doesn't stick with glue, so later it could be easily removed. Then I glued the binding and when the glue was dry I removed the teflon strip. In the next photo It's possible to see the void channel left by the teflon strips and the golden mother of pearl strips that I used to fill it. As I pressed the strips inside the channel, they break in smaller pieces, so they could adapt to all the curves of the guitar: I only had to cut to perfect size the portion on the horn, because there the radius was too narrow to achieve a good result with this technique. Once inserted in the channel, I glued in position the strips with thin ca glue. Now I only had to sand everything flush. The process was long and tricky but I was really happy with the result!
  10. 6 points
  11. 5 points
    I started another project a few weeks back, and for the first time I am reprising one of my original designs; from the #4 has an F-hole build. That was my first GOTM winner, and the only one I have that my wife says I cannot get rid of. I'm sure there will be some modifications, but we'll start with the same pattern and see where it goes. This one will have a sapele body, a zebra wood top, and a neck that's zebra wood, with a Katalox center spine. Really hard, stiff stuff that is, I think it is around 3660 on the janka scale. This build is likely to have several interruptions along the way, but it will keep me amused between interruptions. I skipped the prep and body glue up shots and went straight to the neck sandwich glue up. I decided to cut a shelf for the nut below the level of the fretboard. This will add a Fender like drop off plus a headstock angle which should give plenty of breakover angle for the strings. I like the pattern and colors after cutting the headstock angle. It's almost too bad there will be a headstock cap of Katalox to cover that up. Body cut out....but not quite ready to play yet. SR
  12. 5 points
    Mordor approves this burst
  13. 5 points
    Thank y'all so much! I actually got to sleep last night, that was pretty awesome! since this is a guitar forum I gotta throw up a guitar pic haha. here's some wiring I did on the n12 offset yesterday.
  14. 5 points
    Hope all is well with you. Ive been incredibly busy with my new job and other life stuff. Some good, some difficult. I usually only have a few hours of free time on my days off. But just thought i'd share the couple of things ive done on my days off the past couple months.
  15. 5 points
  16. 5 points
    It's that time again, the blanket is out! Won't be too long now before this one is finished... Although I did have to dedicate some time today to admiring this Ziricote drop-top that arrived from the US over the weekend. Love this stuff and this top is going on one of three new custom builds just started - 8-string multiscale DC (Wenge/Maple thru-neck, Sapele wings, Bocote fretboard, BKP and Hipshot hardware)... Watch this space for updates
  17. 5 points
    I spent Saturday finishing up the finish. It polished out nicely. SR
  18. 5 points
    Good point, I could also observe this, especially at the electronics cavity. I don't like that round over where I want to get sharp edges. Any tricks to mitigate this effect? Guess it should already be helpful to give these regions special attention , i.e. touching them only as little as possible (which probably means excluding the random orbital sander...) Assembly and setup...woohoo! By the way, I took the chance to exhibit more photos in the current GOTM. I'm grateful for any feedback or suggestions! However, there are still a few things to do: fine tuning the intonation compensation of the bone nut tuning of cap switch capacitance (switched via tone pot push/pull) changing the volume pot from linear to log (personal taste) I've also made a time-lapse video of the guitar assembly: ... and this is a proud builder with his new toy:
  19. 5 points
    I just like the way a burst focuses the eye. Did I screw it up? SR
  20. 4 points
    And after a day of heavy sanding we get this. SR
  21. 4 points
    Next batch of builds on the bench... Maple necks with Flame Maple, Richlite (again) and Wenge fretboards. Bodies in Ash, Sipo, Korina and Sipo with Flame Maple top. Doesn't look too fancy at the moment but they will when "finished" In the meantime, finally got the Pinky Dinky on the blanket today... Frets sorted and shielding (rear cavity and pup rout) done ready for assembly and setup tomorrow
  22. 4 points
    They are finished! Don't know about you guys, but I like so much the final result, more pics is comming ...
  23. 4 points
    In the shade and taking a page from Luis' playbook. SR
  24. 4 points
    Then I've designed and made a pickguard and trussrod cover out of a aluminium sheet (1.5mm). Brought it into shape with a fretsaw, files and sandpaper. Lastly I've created longitudinal sanding marks on it: Time to bring together all the parts and to verify if everything fits together as required (it did ): Ready to go!
  25. 4 points
    Well, It's done! I've included a few more pics, as I'm a horrible photographer, so I've tried both indoors and the outdoors, we had a nice sunny day. Hope you like it!!! I'll try to get my bass-playing friend I've made a bass for a few years back to try it out, so that I can hear what's it really supposed to sound like 158 by Goran P, on Flickr 159 by Goran P, on Flickr 160 by Goran P, on Flickr 161 by Goran P, on Flickr 162 by Goran P, on Flickr 163 by Goran P, on Flickr 164 by Goran P, on Flickr 165 by Goran P, on Flickr 166 by Goran P, on Flickr
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