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Voting for August 2019's Guitar Of The Month is now open!


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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/26/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    Lizardburst spalted maple EXP!
  2. 6 points
    update: all done! update 12/15/18 ======================================================DONE!
  3. 5 points
    Finished a few guitars this year. JamaicaCaster - Pore-Filled Oak top over Cherry Body Autumn Leaves - Quilted Maple over Mahogany The Iommi Machine - Myrtle Burl over Maple The Devil's Right Hand - Bubinga over Walnut 1967 Ovation Thunderhead Total Restoration JamaicaCaster Autumn Leaves The Iommi Machine The Devil's Right Hand 1967 Ovation Thunderhead Before-After
  4. 4 points
    Brown pigment is mostly varying parts of the three primary colors: red, yellow and blue. So when you put blue on top of brown, the blue component of the brown just adds to the blue layer, and the red and yellow components show in various degrees in different light sources and angles, giving you the green tints at some angles and the purplish tints at others. The light bouncing back off the wavy fibers of your figured maple adds to the effect. SR
  5. 4 points
    Completion, setup, wiring.
  6. 4 points
  7. 4 points
    I cleaned up the routing with my dremel tool and layed in the veener. I've not done that before and it was fun. I think it came out awesome and exactly what I was looking for.
  8. 4 points
    Yellow lines are rough chambering. Blue are potential carve areas. Ignore the other leftover stopbar posts, HB routes, etc. Fretboard is gonna be a full on starfield. I'm big into astronomy as well, so this is fun. I'm 100% ripping the internal bevel carve from an ESP FRX. It's EXACTLY what I was trying to visualize in my head but could not see it, until I saw one of those. Might need to address the headstock shape now.
  9. 3 points
    And...…...we can all breathe again Clamps came off this afternoon and the first area of concern was OK - it had held! I took off the masking tape and there was surprisingly little squeeze out and glue creep. The tool you see here is a tool they use for prising the backs and tops of mobile phones. Superb for gentle but effective scraping! It scrapes off the glue without scratching the finish at all: An hour of gentle scraping, judicious use of single edge razor blade to get rid of any sharp edges, then progressive micromesh grades and finally a bit of polish, and I reckon this is as good as I could have hoped: There's one teeny light line at the side - ironically this isn't glue...it's where the crack had got to and is a slight crazing of the original finish which was evident in the original issue. I'm going to leave that! The repair is from this line to the left for about 2.5" In fact, you can see the other side crazing just a touch too. And I'm going to leave that as well
  10. 3 points
    Prepare for a very dry update! The first pickup ring is basically ready to go, apart from tidying up one screw countersink, and I'll cut the 3º angle in when I have both ready. I took more photos than this post deserves: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  11. 3 points
    I was doing daddy day care this weekend, my 20-month-old daughter was wanting to play outside so I got her some water and washing up liquid and she was quite happy making bubbles with her little wand thing. So with her entertained, I went into the garage to do a bit of tidying up, poking my head round every few seconds. After 10 mins or so she got bored of bubbles, came into the garage and said guitar daddy. Then she picked up a block of wood that the dog and left by the door, picked up a scrap of sand paper I just dropped, sat on the step of the workmate and started sanding it. Worlds cutest luthier in the making.
  12. 3 points
    No work on my actual guitar but I did try out some Odies Oil and my electronics cavity cover concept on my wife’s birthday present. The top is held on with magnets and you push on the corner to pop it off.
  13. 3 points
    Thanks a lot I was preparing to make a quick jig for dowels like before, piece of wood drilled with a clamp and a chisel, when I saw my box with dies Pure luck Here's where it's at now - I'll make a bone nut and drill for gibson-style tuners I got in the mail. Still waiting on the piezzo... 2-IMG_20190526_124327 by Goran P, on Flickr 3-IMG_20190526_124347 by Goran P, on Flickr
  14. 3 points
    When you posted, this was on mine: It's a save in progress of a very nice Sei headless bass that had developed a very large crack in the top that was cupping away strongly from the centre-section. This is the gap that those clamps are closing: Here it is fixed: And the saved Sei
  15. 3 points
    some brave inlay coming
  16. 3 points
    What a difference a sharp blade makes. I got the rest cut to depth last week using the saw that my instructor uses - an Irwin dovetail saw blade fitted into a gent saw handle for stability. The kerf is very slightly narrow for fretwire, but with a little filing with a triangular file they fit nicely so he says. The good bit is that they are much, much cheaper than most fret saws. I filed the slots afterwards. https://www.irwin.com/tools/handsaws/dovetaildetail-saw Anyway on to this week. Hacking about with a blunt saw meant I'd managed to put a few scores in the board, so it needed tidying up again. I had to get at it with the 80 grit, so it was back out with the radius gauge and straight edge. This time I took along a laser pointer, which made checking for gaps much easier. Luckily it wasn't out by far Once it was in shape using 80 grit, I then went through 120, 240 and 400 grit. That's about as far as I need to go Next week we're onto drilling the holes for the tuners, then the headstock inlays
  17. 3 points
    Cut the body model and adjusted the size a little bigger to compensate the back side. Added about 1/2" to the body scale. Its surprising how much of a difference t makes. I'm going to do some more inlays with this one. Inlays are something I'm a lot more comfortable with and I'm excited about putting some color to accent it. Here's my design. Its going to a matte black so I'm going to run with the red and gold inlays. I'll add some fret markers on the boarder of the fretboard if it doesnt overcrowd the effect. Haven't decided yet.
  18. 3 points
    Hello everyone, I am building myself a silent guitar to practice on. I have shamelessly stolen the design of the Yamaha silent guitars because I absolutely love the look: I didn't want to buy one for a few reasons - 1) price 2) they are nylon stringed 3) they are plastic and 4) they fold down. So here is my attempt - a current work in progress. Today I made the basic shape of the knee rests out of Flexi-Ply. Tomorrow when it is warmer I will glue it and leave it to dry. Then later I will start work on the body and neck - a single piece of wood like on a neck-though guitar (or possibly a single piece made from laminated woods or plywood). I will update this thread with progress and questions as I go! My first question I suppose is suggestions for what to construct the body from - less from a practical standpoint and more from aesthetics. I initially had planned to make this knee rest / sides out of a single piece of steam-bent ash, stained a light grey, and have the body match. Now that I have gone with a plywood construction on the outside I'm unsure what to do for the rest of it. Any suggestions would be great!
  19. 3 points
    Ok. Got it wired up and sounds beautiful. I’m taking a long approach to finishing this. I’m going to play it for a while and come back and spruce up some things. I wanted to have a finished project I want to take notes to see how it plays and make those changes as well. Still need to at some cosmetic things like my bridge gold screws and fix my inlay for the truss rod cover. Also going to add a matte sheen to the knobs and covers to help bring it together a little more. Regardless im stoked to have a guitar I built and already have plans for the next. Thank you guys so much for the help. I’ll get some better pictures soon but in the meantime here’s some good ole fashion iPad pics. Heres the Mako I
  20. 2 points
    The folks at my new church are needing me to fill in on bass before too long. This is all the excuse I need to finally make the Rickenbacker 4003 bass I've been wanting to do for several years, I've had nearly all the non-wood parts for prolly 6-8 years now, so the out of pocket on this one will be minimal. My plan for all this time is to make a set of twins: guitar & bass, identical construction, same body. Both white limba neck-through, walnut wings, birdseye maple veneer top, cream binding. I've had the limba blank set aside fro several years, as well as the walnut for the wings. In the first attempt a few weeks ago, the limba moved after I had the bass neck all set up and ready to route the truss rod. It developed a serious bow. I was pretty pissed. I decided that, as plans clearly changed on me, I might as well go with an all walnut bass. The guitar will be cherry with ash wings. So the rundown on the bass looks like this: 4-piece walnut neck-through, walnut wings, 34" scale jatoba fretboard, burdseye maple veneer top, cream binding, Rockfield bass humbuckers, Allparts (Gotoh?) Ric tailpiece, Allparts (gotoh?) "elephant ear" tuners, and I'll have to make the pickguard. We start with the appropriate image... ...which I blow up to life size. I use several pieces of paper to trace the body and headstock to make the template from. Is it exact? Obviously not. If it good enough for me? Yes. And that's all that matters. 5 minutes of research tells me that Ric makes it 1,25" thick, neck-through. I re-cut the lumber for the neck for proper grain orientation, glue it up, and plane all the pieces down to 1.25". I don't remember the name of the technique for building up the headstock thickness - not a scarf joint - but I went with this style so that I could route for the truss rod without waiting another day for the scarf to dry. The truss rod is a "wagon wheel " style. I've never done this style before, so the wheel spot is a little sloppy. Fortunately, most of it will be covered up with the end of the fretboard and the veneer. basic mockup using the template headstock template with tuners another body mockup This is the wiring harness that came with the pickups. I have no idea what it does anymore. I THINK it's a 3-band EQ and master volume with a blade switch. It might or might not be active. There's no battery plug attached, but for all I remember it was supposed to come with one but didn't. Many years ago, I got the wiring schematic from Rockfield. I have since lost the schematic, and Rockfield is out of business. Hamer used to use this setup some years ago, but they won't get back with me. Unless one of y'all can help me out with this, I'll end up having to take it to a killer place in St Louis (J Gravity Strings) and have them figure it out for me. These are most of the parts that came off the Ric 300-series guitar I made many years ago. This is what will be used on the 4000-series guitar, though I'll prolly get a hardtail tailpiece. Being a cheapskate, and not wanting to mess with making and routing the sharkfin inlays, I just make some huge maple dots. So again, if anyone has any input or information on the Rockfield wiring harness, I'd really appreciate it.
  21. 2 points
    After some hours sandind the bevels, the guitar looks like this: Scorpionscar
  22. 2 points
    Latest vid is up. Could do with some feedback on layout before i commit.
  23. 2 points
    Side dots and a bit of end grain sanding. That is all Edit: Oh, and we're going for tru-oil finish
  24. 2 points
    Personally I don't think you're likely to be chased for building Tele/Strat style stuff. As @mistermikev linked to above, the legal precedent was set some time back that essentially noted that the body shapes in question had been used by so many for so long that they had become too generic to defend as being immediately and solely identifiable as Fender's property. A claim by Gibson for a similar argument will probably fall the same way. I missed the original video before it was pulled, but the commentary that remains is revealing enough. In all likelihood it was a poorly timed and worded PR campaign designed to reinforce the importance of Gibson being the first and only source of the real Les Paul/Flying V/Explorer etc. The fact that it has been pulled only days after being launched with apparently no official comment from Gibson also gives the impression of it perhaps being released before it went through proper channels and signoffs before publication. Even so, I can't blame Gibson (or Fender, or anyone else) for feeling hard done by that their most recognisable products are so widely copied, sometimes to a degree that it makes you wonder if some people shouldn't just buy the original guitar. Maybe their video wasn't the most eloquent way of expressing their frustration and trying to win back the purchasing public to the 'genuine article', but I can sympathise with their intent.
  25. 2 points
    Of course I did! My ideas are brilliant, the level of implementation not that much.
  26. 2 points
    So the V is finished and you know I'm not one to be sitting on my hands, especially as the Mrs took the little one out for brunch on Sunday so I had a few hours. I recarved the neck - it was 21 and 16/32th mm D carve, now it's 20mm. Then I got it stripped down and I sanded out all the marks It gained from me gigging it over the last few months. Going for another poly finish on the body and headstock and Danish oil on the neck. After doing my testers I decided not to bother with sanding sealer, I know this will require more finish due to the pours on Ziricote, but the sealer resulted in a darker finish which I'm not after. An issue I'm faced with is the lack of availability of the finish I'm using (Minwax wipe-on poly), I've just about got enough to finish this guitar, but availability is so limited at the moment that Amazon.co.uk are charging £90 a tin, meaning it's just not an option. I'm thinking about trying their polycrylic for the next build but not sure of the pros and cons, other than that I won't be able to use the oil based sealer I've got in abundance. Anyway, I'll be applying many thinned down coats of poly over the next week then finishing the neck. The Limba went kaboom under finish
  27. 2 points
    Shoot some shellac over the dry decals and follow up with lacquer.
  28. 2 points
    You could bevel the end of the fretboard, which would tie into the bevels in your V. SR
  29. 2 points
    the one time I did this... I was swearing out loud and a lot! I just used fishing line... and it worked... but my dang jack was getting all kinds of hung up in there on i dunno what... really could have used one of those dental mirrors at that point. A bit like picking birds#it out of coo coo clocks with boxing gloves on.
  30. 2 points
    As usual, there's a bit of a backstory to this build - I was commissioned to build a bass a few years back, the price was friendly, and as a sort of thank-you, I got a dismantled P bass in a poor state. I just can't resist those, my friend knows me (too) well Well, a visitor in the shop spotted it in the all 4 corners in pieces and said his bass player would probably be interested in buying it. So, I got the initial spark to finally do something with it. Dirty, dusty, marker lines all over... 01-IMG_20190119_170520 by Goran P, on Flickr Some disassembly, nail polish remover (non-acetone one) 07-IMG_20190318_212835 by Goran P, on Flickr Polished 08-IMG_20190322_202726 by Goran P, on Flickr Neck was not in that a bad shape, frets filed down to get a fretless, but tangs still in fretboard, which was exactly why he wanted to buy it... 06-IMG_20190120_180447 by Goran P, on Flickr 05-IMG_20190120_180438 by Goran P, on Flickr 04-IMG_20190120_180433 by Goran P, on Flickr but 02-IMG_20190119_170651 by Goran P, on Flickr also from the other side.....some people have really weird ideas...so after some careful watering and ironing to bring the fibers at least a bit back up, had to fill and try to match the color to the rest of the surface. 13-IMG_20190323_134528 by Goran P, on Flickr 12-IMG_20190323_134523 by Goran P, on Flickr polished all the hardware, not hiding the mileage, but it should at least be clean 16-IMG_20190324_142027 by Goran P, on Flickr 14-IMG_20190324_141725 by Goran P, on Flickr btw these felt polishers are great for making spare felt rings for strap buttons, I use old belts also 15-IMG_20190324_141807 by Goran P, on Flickr 17-IMG_20190324_142305 by Goran P, on Flickr I re-lacquered the neck and polished it next. All the hardware, pickups and screws went trough detailed polishing/cleaning/oiling where applicable, shielded all the cavities with tape, and some custom lasering later: 18-IMG_20190404_173816 by Goran P, on Flickr but for now, we settled on this: 19-IMG_20190405_185609 by Goran P, on Flickr 20-IMG-c58e0ae4ff9ebcbf48fef7e59345bc01-V by Goran P, on Flickr Not that great pic, and also no pics of how the headstock came out, but will add those when it comes in for a final setup. Pretty much stock electronics, had to replace all, change is that I've added 2 piezzos, one under the pickup, and the other under the brigde, in parallel, and with their own volume pot. I thought it might add some vibe to the fretless sound. Soundclip to follow I hope.
  31. 2 points
    Found a couple of images in my phone from gluing the wings on. You may notice a resemblance with the partially painted spacer block and the neck, that's because I used the offcut from under the neck there. Note the extra at both ends of the body. It's easier to carve the heel to match the body wings than add wood to it. The clamp padding is some jute based stiff foamy plastic I salvaged from the trash bin of the town carpenters sharing the same premises!
  32. 2 points
    This is my second full build from a couple of years back, a neck-thru LP-ish silhouette - Call her "El Pish", maybe? - with a radiused top built in the premises of our local adult education centre. They run a guitar building course on Saturdays - what a way to forget the events of the previous week at work! - under the tuition of master luthier Veijo Rautia. He's got a bunch of templates for us to use for drawing the outlines to be cut with the band saw, as well as a pile of blueprints to check the measurements. This one has the common LP outlines and the shape and placing of the electrickery cavities but the headstock was designed using a PRS template borrowed from a fellow builder for a straighter string pull. As you see, the moustache is still there... The neck is of maple and walnut, the wings of are of roasted alder with a nogal top. The fretboard is of rosewood, 24,75 with a 12" radius. To prove that "tonewood" can be bought in most imaginary places, the alder is from the sauna building department of a nationwide hardware store and the nogal and merbau are from the outlet shop of a parquet factory. The hardware is from China, a pair of humbucker sized P90's for pickups. The pickup rings have been sanded to make them look more "organic" to match the oiled wood. The oil used was Osmocolor clear several coats slurred with ~1500 grit abrasive mat. It weighs 3.9 kg.
  33. 2 points
    Cut a couple of blade slots tonight. I’ve only done this once before and it was about six months ago, so I did my prototype strat build first. I haven’t got a template or a router bit capable of doing this so the cleanest method I could find to do this is to draw around the slot of a cheap scratch plate, then drill 4 2mm pilot holes, then score with a scalpel and ruler between the two inner holes and carefully hog out the slot between just like how one would hand cut an inlay cavity. Once about 3-4mm down, I’ll come back with the router and deepen the control cavity in that area so the slot will fit and it will nicely reveal the slot. Its scary how little wood there has to be here to accommodate a blade switch! I need 4mm outer holes to accommodate the screws but I did 2mm pilots so that the countersink bit doesn’t wobble about too much, then I come back with a 4mm hss bit and increase the hole size. only took about 15 mins per slot and nowhere near as nerve racking I remembered!
  34. 2 points
    A new week in the shop and today was spent finishing up sanding out the handcrafted carve on my latest (and last) Skunk-stripe neck - they look good but those few minutes of anxiety whilst routing into the back of the neck is too much. This one also has a one-off headstock shape as seen on recent mock ups...
  35. 2 points
    I read your tutorial before doing my tester (Can't work out how to imbed a video so here's a terrible gif ), it was very useful and I'm planning to do this finishing technique on my ziricote guitar and the flying V when it gets there. Kudos!
  36. 2 points
    Hi! I'm Graham and I'm a High School student from just outside of Seattle Washington, I just started building in October after seeing a few videos on youtube and deciding that this looked like something I could do (Learned pretty much everything from the Crimson Guitars channel and by lurking their forums). Going into this my only woodworking experience was a few wood shop classes in middle school (And I'm a senior in high school now, I'm 17) but I race mountain bikes and work as a bike mechanic so I do know my way around tools to some extent. I just finished my first build, a through neck, 24 fret strat-ish thing at the end of December and it came out way better than I expected, but definitely not perfect but it plays well. here's a couple pics of it. Now that I have this build done I already feel like I can make something far better, so that leads me to where I am now. I've decided to do a bass as my second build, simply because I don't own a bass and I want one. This is also going to be a sort of trial run for a custom guitar that I've had in mind for a while, but using cheaper woods. Here's the design: Very PRS inspired but with a bit of my own twist. I just got wood for it yesterday, A big 'ol piece of Alder for the body, and some Sapele and flame maple for the neck and fretboard. Ended up being just under $100 for all the wood, and I've got enough Sapele left for a another neck, maybe even two! So far I've got the body rough cut, and a neck blank made. Was my first time cutting a scarf joint as my first build had an inline headstock, surprised how well my little old bench top bandsaw that I stole from my dad did. Hopefully going to make some more progress over the next few days but it's always tricky to balance working on builds with School and work. Cheers, Graham
  37. 2 points
  38. 2 points
    so... just wanted to pass this on in case I will be returning carma for all the help folks here have given me. I just got some stuff from AllenGuitar. I really like that place. I got some fretwire and a 25"sl fretboard for my new strat ($23). He has a specials page where he sells blem ebony fretboards. I have bought in the past for headstock overlays, knobs and such. I just ordered 10 for $25. 1/2" x 3" x 21 3/8". Not perfect black but def look fine with a little dye. there are probably 2 or 3 in there that I think could still be used as fretboards if you just trimmed off a 1/2 on one side altho I guess you don't know how deep the crack is and I suppose that's why he doesn't waste his time on them. I was thinking I might try and glue up 4 of them and make a top. Anywho... just thought I'd mention it.
  39. 2 points
    @mattharris75 suggested or posted this a while back- this alabama brewery is now being distributed in Georgia- straight to ale's "stout at the devil" Oatmeal stout with caramel coffee. Not too sweet- good flavor-7.2%abv wild leap out of lagrange georgia-their alpha abstraction vol 4 featuring denali hops. Almost too sweet for me- but nice funkiness/bitterness/acidity to the brew. 8%abv hellstar dark lager from burial brewing in asheville, nc. This munich dunkle type lager kicks butt. I have not had a beer yet from burial that I didnt enjoy. No other brewery has done that for me. I am not a lager fan either- but this stuff is seriously good. Decent toasty malt that doesnt turn me off like some dark beers that overdo it. 5% wild leap's cold ground coffee stout. pretty decent stout- wish there was a little more coffee in the flavor profile. a fair amount of carbonation - I liked the first one a lot- but after a couple more- its really good- but not upper class stuff that my palate demands I find. (beer snobs rule). 8.8% abv- but at under $10 a sixer- which is relatively cheap for craft brew in my parts- I will say this is a very good value. I would absolutely buy again unless something new/diff caught my eye.
  40. 2 points
    Go single conductor unless you need shielded due to susceptibility to hum (long wire runs between different cavities, or from single coil pickups would be the only real ones to worry about). If your control cavity is screened/shielded and your wires are only being run within that cavity, just use single conductor - the addition of screened wiring inside the cavity serves no real purpose other than to make the wiring more difficult to execute cleanly. Stranded wire is better for longevity in situations where vibration is a problem due to the inability of solid core wire to flex repeatedly without breaking, but unless you're in the habit of diving into the moshpit every 15 minutes at a gig while playing the guitar you're unlikely to encounter issues with solid vs stranded wiring.
  41. 2 points
    That's an absolute stunner Andy, one of your best. I love how the black fret markers and hardware work together, and the void fills in the burl even add to that look. As well does the black inlines and borders you've used in the details. Bravo! SR
  42. 2 points
    A look at the height differences
  43. 2 points
    Kinda reminds me of the Yamaha Pacifica neck joint on the early-90s models: ...only more 'Andy-ised'. So, does the 'R' in your screen name stand for 'Rescuer...' ...of basses?
  44. 2 points
    I got the box closed. The bottom is a biit wopperjawed and thwre are a few gaps where the top didn't make good glue contact with the sides. Both are because I tried something different, just to see what happened. And I don't care at all. This has been appropriately labled the "r&d mule", so this is the righr place to experiment a bit. I still need to make the front & back even with the sides. I might even paint it with some leftover wall paint. I'm just gonna uae a leftover neck I have lying around, a basic bridge, and a single pup. As I've said before, the only end result is to be able to play it and make some noise.
  45. 2 points
    Well, it might in my next build...
  46. 2 points
    Certainly commiserations, @mistermikev ! In all aspects of all the builds I have done, gloss finishing is my bette noire. Amongst the various methods and finish types of non-spray finishes, tru-oil gloss is, to me, one of the most difficult. It is why I am always agog and full of admiration of @ScottR 's results. I'm not one to give advice here but for tru oil, 3000 grit with a compound strikes me as probably much too harsh. I note that Scott uses micromesh cloth running up to 12000 grit (which is basically the same material that ladies use to buff their nails). And I'm not sure he uses a compound. Also, particularly with tru-oil, I found that the hardening time before any polishing starts is critical. Personally, I would hold fire before resorting to polyurethane - which actually has VERY similar issues and obstacles - and maybe hone in with the experts around us to the - probably small - tweaks in your technique to get the tru-oil finish you are after.
  47. 2 points
    So decided to go another direction with the color. Made lots and lots of samples and I ended up going with blue. I in turn also decided to bind the headstock plate and make pickup ring covers out of some extra mahogany I had. Was fairly successful but one of my holes was a little to close to the edge so i have to make a new one. I'm also up to knob design 4 now. Still haven't chosen one I've liked. I know I want it to match the guitar in either the mahogany or the gold. Not sure yet. lol, just noticed my pics are going through all the seasons. Well, this one includes a fair amount of dog hair too!
  48. 2 points
    i am not a big fan of harp guitars and such- but the carved butt end of that guitar and all its angles and such is pretty bad arse. The window port hole cover is pretty clever as well. Linda Manzer has some pretty crazy guitars out there- but I think the execution on this one incorporating the art work was pretty neat. YMMV
  49. 2 points
    My entry is my double humbucker tele shaped build, I'm calling it Fat Myrtle as she weighs in at 4.3 Kilos! Specs: Body - Blackheart Sassafras top with Tasmanian Myrtle back. Neck - Tas Oak neck with a Merbau freboard Frets - Jumbo extra hard Pickups - Two gretsch style humbuckers Wiring - Les paul standard wiring with push pull pots on the tones to flip the humbuckers to parallel mode. Hardware - Gold hardware, black pickup rings. Finished in Polyurethane Link to build thread Thanks for looking, and good luck to other entrants.
  50. 2 points
    You could build a pantograph at huge cost and make a bunch of 4:1 templates to reduced scaling and increase human tactile precision. Or do a rubbing.
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