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Entry for January 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - ENTER HERE!

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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    I sure hope so! Not certain, just a picture I figured would go with my username. Get it? Lumberjack...? Axes....? But also, guitar axes.......? I’ll show myself out. Major pic dump from a long day in the garage: Body trued up to 80 grit, controls drilled. Control cavity roughly routed, and a shot of my “method” for cavity cover fitting; I’m not a big template guy (although I know I should be) and cut almost everything free hand, including routes. Pressing aluminum foil over the cavity gives me my shape, as every cavity I cut is unique to the controls and layout I decide on, which changes for most every build. Cover cut And fit Neck cut and trued up Side dots drilled Gluing up the MOP dots. Fretboard radiused to 1000 grit Frets cut and tangs ground off. Stainless steel is a bear to work but I’ve become somewhat addicted to the feel for bends/vibrato, and have found cutting the frets and grinding the tangs to be easiest with a dremel metal cutting wheel with the fret locked in a vice. Let me know if anyone’s got an easier way, I used to try nipping them but wore through tools pretty quickly that way. Sealed the binding with a spritz of lacquer as I’m fairly certain I’ll be darkening the fretboard with Stewmac stain and didn’t want it bleeding into the maple. Frets pressed Current status after a full day of work.
  2. 7 points
    The back plate has been attached and about 90% filed/sanded/scraped flush with the sides. It's very close in most areas except for the scroll and neck join/heel areas. The join is pretty solid. There are a few imperfections in the 'usual suspect' areas. I don't expect it will be very noticeable when it's all said and done. Once I get the scroll/neck areas cleaned up I'll add a small roundover on the back, since I'm not planning on binding it. I've tapped on the box some, and it has that 'high ping' sort of resonance. I don't honestly know what I'm listening for, but I do like the sound of it!
  3. 6 points
    Hello Everyone, here's my entry for the October GOTM. Name; Standard General Body wood: Sapele mahogany and flame maple Neck wood: Sapele laminated with maple veneer accent stripes Fretboard: Rosewood bound with flame maple and luminlay side dots Hardware: Evertune bridge, Hipshot locking tuners Electronics: BareKnuckle Rebel Yells with coil splitting push push tone pots Other Features: Grain matched backplates, paduak inlay at 12th fret, neck volute, wenge logo inlay This guitar is for my bandmate who is in love with Gibson SGs. However with all the inherent problems with them I decided I would build him one to the same specs as an SG, but then buff it up here and there. Somethings that make it special and a little different than your "standard" SG are upgraded hardware and electronics, a thicker body (to counterbalance the typical neck dive), an added volute so it HOPEFULLY wont break at the headstock, grain matched cavity covers and custom band inlays at the 12th. This was the first guitar I have ever built that was a) 24.75" scale and b) with any sort of neck angle. It added some challenges and I really enjoyed thinking out side the box to accomplish it precisely. This was probably the sixth or seventh guitar I have built. Thanks for looking!
  4. 6 points
    Lizardburst spalted maple EXP!
  5. 5 points
    Got the front about semigloss. I may keep it there. If not I'll hit it with the buffing wheel in a month. Still quite a few touch ups around the pickguard, controls, and a corner. Still working on the back as well.
  6. 5 points
  7. 4 points
    Some post holidays update... Not that much as I'm developing also an acoustic, will post a thread on it soon. So there is a pic of my carbon reinforcment rod into the neck. I use a piece of granit, perfectly flat, when gluing the two 3mm * 8mm carbon rod into the neck, so I'm sure it will stay flat. And the center block and side are ready to be glued to the back.
  8. 4 points
    Coat of slight purply black then sandback. Forgot about the thin maple in the pinstripe even though I thought about that last night laying in bed. “remember to mask that!” On sandback the pinstripe brightened up again, couldn't find a way to mask it well and did it again. Ha! I’ll do some surgical sanding in the pinstripes to lighten them up, or may leave it as they look just like the body and match? Now I’ll figure out some tiny fills, take of the mask and HOPE I got a clean edge on the sides. It needs some kind of sealer coats, I’ve got vinyl, fresh shellac or nitro. You pick. The Macassar trem cover, looks out of place now being very brown and stripey. It may darken considerably after oiling, but I’ve got dye as well. I’m not sure about the glow in the dark starfield fretboard, its not exactly how I wanted it. I’ll take another stab at it, worst case is a new board with a streamlined look. Maybe even blocks? I saw one with moon phases that was cool AF.
  9. 4 points
    Wicking in thin CA left it looking like this. I broke open those bubbles and did multiple fills with CA.That left a smooth surface. but was still visible.And after a week it sank, as expected. What follows is a long process of adding a bit of tinted lacquer to diffuse the visible areas and lacquer spot fills over that. Rinse and repeat and finally add enough lacquer to stand proud and leave it that way for a few months and then level and polish it again. That is where it stands right now. It is smooth today, and I'm going to finish the glamour shots in this condition. I found myself in bright low angle sun again and took this shot specially for @Bizman62. And the rest for all of us. SR
  10. 4 points
    When is a stray screw hole NOT a stray screw hole? When it's a "design feature"! Luckily it was on the centre line. That's about as much sanding as my dodgy shoulder can take this evening. Lots more to come though I also recessed the jack plate last night using the Dremel + router base + 2mm milling bit
  11. 4 points
    Hey a bit of progress lately. I glued the back on Then trimmed it with a nasty machine Then used another nasty machine After sanding round the edges I wasn't happy with the result... So I made yet another Template so I could router the back And finally smoothing out the dips and bumps Then onto the other end using some High-Tech graphic design tools And now shh THE SECRET NUMBERS! I made this Fret Scale ruler with an angled edge to help transfer the line to the Fretboard, don't know if you can see it Now just check with the R9 and it was spot on. I know I should use A STEEL RULER but they're just so hard to read from! And on with the job Now with the slots cut I have a dilemma, should I Radius then bind or bind then Radius? If the slots end up being too shallow afterward I will be in big trouble. I cut down to this line which seems rather deep but after doing the Radius its surprising how much comes off. I think I should Radius then bind, any opinions or thoughts?
  12. 4 points
    Last one. Dialed back the black. Feels a lot more natural
  13. 4 points
    The covers are done. the wallnut one goes half of its width recessed, because a wanted it projected a few. Didn't like completely recessed. Some pics: Scopionscar
  14. 4 points
    Brown pigment is mostly varying parts of the three primary colors: red, yellow and blue. So when you put blue on top of brown, the blue component of the brown just adds to the blue layer, and the red and yellow components show in various degrees in different light sources and angles, giving you the green tints at some angles and the purplish tints at others. The light bouncing back off the wavy fibers of your figured maple adds to the effect. SR
  15. 4 points
    Completion, setup, wiring.
  16. 4 points
    When you posted, this was on mine: It's a save in progress of a very nice Sei headless bass that had developed a very large crack in the top that was cupping away strongly from the centre-section. This is the gap that those clamps are closing: Here it is fixed: And the saved Sei
  17. 4 points
    I cleaned up the routing with my dremel tool and layed in the veener. I've not done that before and it was fun. I think it came out awesome and exactly what I was looking for.
  18. 4 points
    Yellow lines are rough chambering. Blue are potential carve areas. Ignore the other leftover stopbar posts, HB routes, etc. Fretboard is gonna be a full on starfield. I'm big into astronomy as well, so this is fun. I'm 100% ripping the internal bevel carve from an ESP FRX. It's EXACTLY what I was trying to visualize in my head but could not see it, until I saw one of those. Might need to address the headstock shape now.
  19. 3 points
    Got the pieces inlayed this evening. Started off by stick the pieces to another copy of the design to make sure they were in the right places. Then stuck that to fretboard so I could scalpel round it. Then use the dremel and plunger base to do the majority of the work. Took a couple of hours to get the pieces fitting nicely because I was fighting against the radius of the fretboard. Annoyingly I miscalculated the required thickness for the bone/knife handle and it was too thing at one end - The only way I could get it to go in properly was to snap it in the middle. I'll see what it looks like once it's all sanded flush and will maybe glue is some mop dust if needed. I filled in my hap hazard edges with ebony dust and super glue, but used some dust from ziricote sapwood on the lighter side (knowing that superglue tends to darken things up a bit). So we'll see what it looks like in the morning
  20. 3 points
    After a few months of procrastination and worrying that the lacquer might change colour or crack. I've finally wired her up. New mahogany body, Croatian maple cap and rejig of switch/pot positions. It's a done deal. Didn't enjoying going over old work, but really enjoyed the finishing process. To be collected on Sunday
  21. 3 points
    I passed this across to Matt this afternoon. I'm pleased and relieved to say that he is very, very pleased with it He will doing a proper recording at some stage of it, but this was a quick couple of mobile-phone clips I did of him playing it 'straight out of the box' : https://youtu.be/-Bckzvnup7I https://youtu.be/4qQ9iHK22IE I'm well chuffed
  22. 3 points
    Here are some updated pics! Mikro, I have used literally every type of pickup in the last year!
  23. 3 points
    Just to keep this thread alive... Sanded away the couple of bumps and humps I found during the week. Isn't it funny how your fingers can't find them after a few hours of sanding? I would understand that for the right hand, but the left one isn't that active, only holding the guitar on the table so it doesn't wander all around and get all scratched on the bottom side. After having sanded the reshaped areas to 800 with Abranet, and finding deeper scratches to be take care of coarser grits and resanding to 800 I finally started reoiling the sanded parts with Crimson Penetrating Oil... Only to find more scratches! But as @Andyjr1515 said, when it looks OK, stop. So I left the few minor spots as is, hoping they'd go away with the oil. Also I didn't bother trying to level the couple of nicks on the bottom side. The roasted alder is so soft any dust particle on the table will make more of them anyway! I also reshaped the slanted edge of the headstock to reveal the 0.55 mm flamed birch veneer evenly:
  24. 3 points
    Another detail added. Trimmed down the plate. Glad I did. Grain is awesome on that piece.
  25. 3 points
    And...…...we can all breathe again Clamps came off this afternoon and the first area of concern was OK - it had held! I took off the masking tape and there was surprisingly little squeeze out and glue creep. The tool you see here is a tool they use for prising the backs and tops of mobile phones. Superb for gentle but effective scraping! It scrapes off the glue without scratching the finish at all: An hour of gentle scraping, judicious use of single edge razor blade to get rid of any sharp edges, then progressive micromesh grades and finally a bit of polish, and I reckon this is as good as I could have hoped: There's one teeny light line at the side - ironically this isn't glue...it's where the crack had got to and is a slight crazing of the original finish which was evident in the original issue. I'm going to leave that! The repair is from this line to the left for about 2.5" In fact, you can see the other side crazing just a touch too. And I'm going to leave that as well
  26. 3 points
    Prepare for a very dry update! The first pickup ring is basically ready to go, apart from tidying up one screw countersink, and I'll cut the 3º angle in when I have both ready. I took more photos than this post deserves: Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr Untitled by S K, on Flickr
  27. 3 points
    I was doing daddy day care this weekend, my 20-month-old daughter was wanting to play outside so I got her some water and washing up liquid and she was quite happy making bubbles with her little wand thing. So with her entertained, I went into the garage to do a bit of tidying up, poking my head round every few seconds. After 10 mins or so she got bored of bubbles, came into the garage and said guitar daddy. Then she picked up a block of wood that the dog and left by the door, picked up a scrap of sand paper I just dropped, sat on the step of the workmate and started sanding it. Worlds cutest luthier in the making.
  28. 3 points
    No work on my actual guitar but I did try out some Odies Oil and my electronics cavity cover concept on my wife’s birthday present. The top is held on with magnets and you push on the corner to pop it off.
  29. 3 points
    Of course I did! My ideas are brilliant, the level of implementation not that much.
  30. 3 points
    Thanks a lot I was preparing to make a quick jig for dowels like before, piece of wood drilled with a clamp and a chisel, when I saw my box with dies Pure luck Here's where it's at now - I'll make a bone nut and drill for gibson-style tuners I got in the mail. Still waiting on the piezzo... 2-IMG_20190526_124327 by Goran P, on Flickr 3-IMG_20190526_124347 by Goran P, on Flickr
  31. 3 points
  32. 3 points
    What a difference a sharp blade makes. I got the rest cut to depth last week using the saw that my instructor uses - an Irwin dovetail saw blade fitted into a gent saw handle for stability. The kerf is very slightly narrow for fretwire, but with a little filing with a triangular file they fit nicely so he says. The good bit is that they are much, much cheaper than most fret saws. I filed the slots afterwards. https://www.irwin.com/tools/handsaws/dovetaildetail-saw Anyway on to this week. Hacking about with a blunt saw meant I'd managed to put a few scores in the board, so it needed tidying up again. I had to get at it with the 80 grit, so it was back out with the radius gauge and straight edge. This time I took along a laser pointer, which made checking for gaps much easier. Luckily it wasn't out by far Once it was in shape using 80 grit, I then went through 120, 240 and 400 grit. That's about as far as I need to go Next week we're onto drilling the holes for the tuners, then the headstock inlays
  33. 3 points
    Cut the body model and adjusted the size a little bigger to compensate the back side. Added about 1/2" to the body scale. Its surprising how much of a difference t makes. I'm going to do some more inlays with this one. Inlays are something I'm a lot more comfortable with and I'm excited about putting some color to accent it. Here's my design. Its going to a matte black so I'm going to run with the red and gold inlays. I'll add some fret markers on the boarder of the fretboard if it doesnt overcrowd the effect. Haven't decided yet.
  34. 2 points
    is this a competition? race to the grave is on... vaper, had heart attack, and have diabetes... and doctor who can't be bothered. (what do I win?) I often think of my remaining life in terms of how many guitars I can build! anywho, I commiserate with you regarding fretwork... man I dread it. that said my most recent - I did thin frets... man was that a quick/easy job compared to jumbo. someone needs to design an elec fret crowner. "I don't care what it costs... I'll take it".
  35. 2 points
    Drilled for tuners. I bought a tuner hole drilling jig but frankly it's just as easy and possibly easier to just drill on my drill press. Pretty straight forward. So I will stay on the neck and look at cutting the tenon. This is the most complicated part of this build. I did some CAD drawings to figure out bridge height etc. It's tricky because it has a tenon like an LP but a flat top like a JR. So there either needs to be a ramp under the fret board or the body has to be sanded so that is where the ramp exists. I figured I'd split the difference and go with a small ramp under the fret board and sand a bit of a ramp into the body. I actually think this is what they did on the Futura and then moved the neck join location to minimize the thickness of the ramp for the Explorer. Here are the cad files and then how I will cut the tenon and angle on my CNC machine. So I constructed an angled ramp on my CNC machine and cut the tenon to the right depth. This kept a bit of mahogony as a ramp joined to the tenon, which I decided not to use in the end but it looked pretty cool. and test fit on my korina body. then glued up the fret board. I took the ramp of the sides first and will use a cut off to slide under the fret board when I glue the neck on. Glued up with hot hide glue. Gotta be vintage correct. Cheers Peter.
  36. 2 points
    Don't use wood putty! Square the blowout areas off, find some scraps of body wood, and cut and glue in replacement pieces. Then sand everything flush.
  37. 2 points
    I assume your Asus is running some version of the Android OS. Things you can try at your end for now: Use a different browser. On my old Samsung S3 smartphone ProjectGuitar wouldn't display properly using the default Safari browser. Using Chrome everything worked correctly, even if the poor old phone didn't have the horsepower to run Chrome very well. Try your tablet on a different WiFi network, see if things change. Try another tablet/smartphone/laptop/Commodore 64 on your current WiFi network and see if the issue persists. At the bottom of each page on the forum you can switch between different display themes (not sure if this is visible to regular users, might be an admin-only thing). Try one of the earlier themes and see if things start behaving themselves: Is the issue solely confined to ProjectGuitar, or are other graphics-heavy websites also affected? Try other forums where you know a lot of people post pictures or websites which use lots of images (car companies are a good place to start). Most browsers on mobile devices have an option to request the desktop version of a website in their settings. Try switching between the two to see if it makes a difference. Are other users of your particular Asus tablet raising similar faults elsewhere on the net? Maybe try doing a Google search for the model number and see if there is a group of complaints about poor internet performance in the last 6 months that might point towards a software update issue or a general failing of the product. FWIW I haven't seen any issues here using a Samsung Galaxy S8 (mobile data and several different WiFI networks), a Windows 10 laptop on my home network, a Windows 7 laptop at the office or via mobile hotspot, and a Linux desktop. I will, however, qualify that statement by adding that I do have an Asus tablet that really struggles with anything more than email, despite being a real gun when I bought it some time ago. One day it just decided that it wanted a bit of a lie down and it hasn't been the same since. Get in touch if things still aren't working for you and we'll see if there's more that can be done. If anyone else is finding similar issues please let us know via the Site Feedback and Issue Reporting Area. If it's only a couple of users that are affected it suggests that perhaps there's something at their end, but if it's a whole group of people it might be a wider issue at ours. If the error reports are kept in one location on the forum it will be easier for us to track and gauge.
  38. 2 points
    Just some pics of the finished guitar. Really enjoy playing this one. Really rich pickups.
  39. 2 points
    An oldie I never entered in GOTM. Jet Jons Jag. Build here: SPECS: 3 piece Alder body Maple Neck, EIR Fretboard 34" scale Tele Headstock Jag bass redesign by my self. All cnc cut by me and finish work by hand. Finish was done with lacquer and 2 k clear coat. BadAss 2 bridge, EMG active pickups w/ three volumes and one tone control Hipshot tuners, 1 is a Drop D Banjo Frets, ( He likes them crisp as he places his fingers on the actual fret, the harmonics on this are a beast) Sorry I lost many pictures in a HD Crash, so this is the best I have at present, had to get the owner to get me some.. LOL!!! Pictures are of the owner John, One gigging in his Brian Adams Tribute band. This thing rocks. The first Bass I ever built. I let John finish sand the hand, arm and belly carve to suit him. He also wanted to spray the color. LOL!! Now it is one of the new models I will be using. Yep, I know where is the damn control cover? Jon lost it, so i have to make another one. LOL!!!
  40. 2 points
    Today I've been filling the voids of the poplar burl with resin. Some pics: Scorpionscar
  41. 2 points
    Latest vid is up. Could do with some feedback on layout before i commit.
  42. 2 points
    Heh... I just have been raised to love wood with contrast and figuration. Here in Finland wood is widely used visible both in public and private spaces. Way back when I was a kid we used to spend all summer long at our cottage where I had the upper bed bunk very close to the pine ceiling. I still can see birds, puppies and funny faces around the knots, and they change place and appearance each time. Figured wood is an endless source of fading images, better than the TV.
  43. 2 points
    Personally I don't think you're likely to be chased for building Tele/Strat style stuff. As @mistermikev linked to above, the legal precedent was set some time back that essentially noted that the body shapes in question had been used by so many for so long that they had become too generic to defend as being immediately and solely identifiable as Fender's property. A claim by Gibson for a similar argument will probably fall the same way. I missed the original video before it was pulled, but the commentary that remains is revealing enough. In all likelihood it was a poorly timed and worded PR campaign designed to reinforce the importance of Gibson being the first and only source of the real Les Paul/Flying V/Explorer etc. The fact that it has been pulled only days after being launched with apparently no official comment from Gibson also gives the impression of it perhaps being released before it went through proper channels and signoffs before publication. Even so, I can't blame Gibson (or Fender, or anyone else) for feeling hard done by that their most recognisable products are so widely copied, sometimes to a degree that it makes you wonder if some people shouldn't just buy the original guitar. Maybe their video wasn't the most eloquent way of expressing their frustration and trying to win back the purchasing public to the 'genuine article', but I can sympathise with their intent.
  44. 2 points
    Shoot some shellac over the dry decals and follow up with lacquer.
  45. 2 points
    You could bevel the end of the fretboard, which would tie into the bevels in your V. SR
  46. 2 points
    This is my second full build from a couple of years back, a neck-thru LP-ish silhouette - Call her "El Pish", maybe? - with a radiused top built in the premises of our local adult education centre. They run a guitar building course on Saturdays - what a way to forget the events of the previous week at work! - under the tuition of master luthier Veijo Rautia. He's got a bunch of templates for us to use for drawing the outlines to be cut with the band saw, as well as a pile of blueprints to check the measurements. This one has the common LP outlines and the shape and placing of the electrickery cavities but the headstock was designed using a PRS template borrowed from a fellow builder for a straighter string pull. As you see, the moustache is still there... The neck is of maple and walnut, the wings of are of roasted alder with a nogal top. The fretboard is of rosewood, 24,75 with a 12" radius. To prove that "tonewood" can be bought in most imaginary places, the alder is from the sauna building department of a nationwide hardware store and the nogal and merbau are from the outlet shop of a parquet factory. The hardware is from China, a pair of humbucker sized P90's for pickups. The pickup rings have been sanded to make them look more "organic" to match the oiled wood. The oil used was Osmocolor clear several coats slurred with ~1500 grit abrasive mat. It weighs 3.9 kg.
  47. 2 points
    so... just wanted to pass this on in case I will be returning carma for all the help folks here have given me. I just got some stuff from AllenGuitar. I really like that place. I got some fretwire and a 25"sl fretboard for my new strat ($23). He has a specials page where he sells blem ebony fretboards. I have bought in the past for headstock overlays, knobs and such. I just ordered 10 for $25. 1/2" x 3" x 21 3/8". Not perfect black but def look fine with a little dye. there are probably 2 or 3 in there that I think could still be used as fretboards if you just trimmed off a 1/2 on one side altho I guess you don't know how deep the crack is and I suppose that's why he doesn't waste his time on them. I was thinking I might try and glue up 4 of them and make a top. Anywho... just thought I'd mention it.
  48. 2 points
    Roughly placed, they almost correspond to a music staff, and maybe a bit of Bohemian Rhapsody melody. But I won't throw out the form for function.
  49. 2 points
    @mattharris75 suggested or posted this a while back- this alabama brewery is now being distributed in Georgia- straight to ale's "stout at the devil" Oatmeal stout with caramel coffee. Not too sweet- good flavor-7.2%abv wild leap out of lagrange georgia-their alpha abstraction vol 4 featuring denali hops. Almost too sweet for me- but nice funkiness/bitterness/acidity to the brew. 8%abv hellstar dark lager from burial brewing in asheville, nc. This munich dunkle type lager kicks butt. I have not had a beer yet from burial that I didnt enjoy. No other brewery has done that for me. I am not a lager fan either- but this stuff is seriously good. Decent toasty malt that doesnt turn me off like some dark beers that overdo it. 5% wild leap's cold ground coffee stout. pretty decent stout- wish there was a little more coffee in the flavor profile. a fair amount of carbonation - I liked the first one a lot- but after a couple more- its really good- but not upper class stuff that my palate demands I find. (beer snobs rule). 8.8% abv- but at under $10 a sixer- which is relatively cheap for craft brew in my parts- I will say this is a very good value. I would absolutely buy again unless something new/diff caught my eye.
  50. 2 points
    Finally finished! Handed it over to Luke last night. I'm very happy with it as is he, but also glad it's gone to be honest. The pics aren't the best unfortunately, I wanted to take some proper photos, but just ran out of time yesterday. Spec Body: 1 piece carved african mahogany Cap: 2-piece flame maple w/faux binding Control cover: carved flamed maple Neck: Laminated flamed maple and african mahogany Headstock: Ebony w/ flamed maple inlay Fretboard: Ebony with flamed maple trapeze inlays Binding: Ebony + flamed maple Frets: 24 medium jumbo nick-silver Nut: 43mm graphtech tusq Finish: - Top: oiled blue burst - Back/neck: oiled Natural Tuners: Mini Grover Rotomatic 3x3 Bridge: Graphtech Resomax untimatic with tusq saddles and Gotoh tailpiece Pickups: Dimarzio Liquifire bass, SuperDistortion trebble Controls: - Switchcraft 3-way toggle - CTS push-pull volume with treble bleed - CTS push-pull tone, both pickups can be coiltapped individually. - Ebony lampshade control knobs
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