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  1. 10 likes
    The instruments we make tell a story. The materials we use, the designs we come up with, the music we imagine our new instrument playing, and even the reason we decided to make the instrument are all elements of the story. I think this is one of the big differences between mass-produced instruments and hand-crafted custom instruments. The first are made for a market, the second are made to tell a story. Reading each of the different build threads going on here with so many different ideas coming to life tells us something about the builder. Even if we aren’t aware of it, the decisions we make in our build are driven by who we are and the story we are trying to tell. I think @mattharris75’s beautiful April 2016 GOTM winner illustrates this well – it’s a fantastic instrument on it’s own, but when you know the story behind, you understand the instrument in a whole new way. When I started making this bass, I didn’t know what story I was telling. I just knew I wanted to build a 5 string bass for myself. I wanted a versatile bass that could produce many different sounds for many different styles of music. I wanted to feature some nice natural materials – pretty, but not precious. And I wanted to pull in some elements of the world I’m seeing here in Japan (without, hopefully, being cheezy). The story of this bass is my story – it’s a snapshot of me right now. It’s autobiographical. Some things are completely obvious – made in Japan by an American, the koi inlay, etc. But the core is a subtler view driven by both the kind of player I want to be and where I’m at in my life. This bass is diverse, flexible, adaptable – all things I strive to be. It’s not that I don’t know who I am, but who I am is someone who wants to be many things. I played my first gig with the new bass last weekend. The gig was with a blues band literally on the banks of Mt. Fuji. I think that first gig – rocking out to one of the great American music forms while the sun set behind Japan’s most recognized icon - is a fitting end to this build thread. My wife reminded me during some of the more challenging parts of this build that “it’s not done until I say it’s done”. Finishing a build isn’t just checking off the last item in a checklist. It’s not even playing the first gig with an instrument. An instrument is finished when story the instrument tells is complete. And I’m happy to say that this build is complete. Here's a photo I snapped a few minute before we started playing: Now with that out of the way, there are a few other loose ends to wrap up about this build. First, I’m really happy with how the bass plays and am having a ton of fun making music with it. My G&L feels like a dog compared to it. That said, there are a few rough spots that I continually see. I don’t think anybody else will ever notice them, but they I can’t help but see them. Oh well… Those of you that followed closely may remember that I talked some talk about a mystery solution to resolve tear out. The plan was to create and inlay a traditional landscape scene (silhouette of Fuji and Torii gate) over the area of the tear out. I started it but never put it in place. It both ended up feeling too “precious” and amateur for what I wanted. But it did inspire the koi, which has ended up being the most distinctive and eye catching feature of the bass. So we can give the tear-out credit for leading me to the koi inlay. I saw a PRS Dragon for sale in Tokyo yesterday for $29,000 – it was certainly beautiful and clearly the dragon inlay (and not some playability or tone) is what makes it ‘special’. I was surprised to find leveling and finishing the frets to be one of the most rewarding steps in the process. It was certainly tedious, but there was something magic about seeing it all come together with just some very tiny adjustments. I sprung for a nice leveling beam and there’s definitely something inherently satisfying about using a quality purpose-built tool to complete a task. Finally, thank you all who have followed along, liked a post, made a comment, and answered a question in this thread. And a special thanks to @Prostheta, @curtisa and @ScottR for the continual feedback, insight, and support. This website is awesome. Now, on to build #2! Here's a blurry shot of the bass's debut performance at the Fuji Roadhouse, and once of it resting after the gig.
  2. 9 likes
  3. 9 likes
    True!... a sharp gouge is just fun. I've been carving the heel, that was a quick job. I will try to make kinda volute in the heel... Still needs some refining, but the big part is done. Sorry for the square neck profile, I need to clear out the surroundings before proceed with the neck carving. Have a nice weekend!
  4. 9 likes
    Hello, our first of two instruments for guitar months !!!! Model '' Black Crow""* Bolt-on* Mahogany body * Top Spalted Maple Satin Finishes ( Black Opium* 5 piece neck, Maple, Venge with Spalted Maple Book-matched Head * Black Wood Fretboard (compound radius) whit lumi side dots & 12 Fret Logo Inlay * Scale length: 26,5¨ * Nut : Schaller Locking nut * 24 frets Sintoms * 2 APG Custom PickUps * 5 positions Schaller P Mega Switch * Tuning Machines : M6 Schaller * Bridge: Floyd Rose 7 ( Germany ) * Finishes: Oil * Neutrick Jack * Jack,Neutriik NJ3FP6C-B, metal housing and gold contacts * Wood Knobs Custom Made by Nugz Blacky * Strings: 10" - 56 More photos : https://www.facebook.com/NugzBlackyCustomGuitars/photos/?tab=album&album_id=1020078578058048
  5. 8 likes
    Here's my polishing kit: micro mesh and an automotive buffer. SR
  6. 7 likes
    And that about catches y'all up to where I am at at the moment. Except for this new build Me and the lady just found out started a little while ago. I think this will be the best one yet!
  7. 6 likes
    the part I guess I am still not sure about is the bottom of the fretboard between where the neck angle starts and the bridge- its almost like (in my mind) the bottom of the fretboard would be flat until that neck angle- and then it would (if it was to be snug to the body and not overhang the body) have to angle forming a triangle from the neck angle to the bridge (I think?)- very interesting. you have my interest peaked big time on this. As far as your body radius- have you sorted out how you will do that? I had to do a 25" radius in a Turner Model One copy I did a few years ago- here is a pic- I laid out mdf board- held a 25" piece of string down at a center point off the board- took a pen and swiped the radius across the boards. made a "ghetto style extremely large" fretboard radius jig and went to town. that was a ton of fun. and clean up was easy with a little sanding and it came out great. (the jig was turned 90 degrees before use )
  8. 6 likes
    HAD A BABY!!!! It's a boy! Keegan Ash Deagle! 8 lb 10 oz. So far moma bear and cub are doing awesome! still has his days / nights mixed up... but getting there... In other news, I was able to get the frets in and start prepping for the back carve... hoping to get a little time to work on that today... almost ready for finish... then I have to find a place to hid the thing for a few weeks till X's birthday. also found a local place to buy 1 amp slo-blo fuses. my AX-84 high gain Frankenstein amp is blowing the fuse as soon as it's plugged in... the only things connected before the standby switch is flipped is the power cable / fuse / standby switch. you'd expect to find a short in there... but the multi meter reads none... so I basically have to start de-soldering items until I find the culprit... hopefully it's jus the switch and I can order a new one easily.
  9. 6 likes
    So here is the first casting of the "quilted" acrylic. I strafe-coated the topography - gold from bottom, silver boro from top. The two tone effect is not lighting - its actually gold on one side of the "quilt billows" and silver on the other side.
  10. 6 likes
    Like is said in a post, I was working on my shop. I am almost done. I got some green shelving for the great price of free from a friend. When I was starting to organize everything my wife said why dont you put all the big tools in the middle so it gives you more room. Which was surprising. I am still not done but its really looking like a proper shop and really has came a long way. I still have more to do, but I thought I would share and also will start on the templates this weekend.
  11. 6 likes
    Todays idiocy done. Loads of trimming and a bit of scraping to do but it worked ok. I was pretty nervous about bending the ebony binding with the veneers glued to the bottom, but no scorching or delamination. Couple of small voids resulting from the tape I used not having enough tack, but nothing that's not fixable. About halfway through I worked out which order the veneers should have been glued to get a better transition through the neck to the headstock. hohum. Not 100% sold on bound headstocks, but it looks a bit neater than it was. At least I know that if it needs to be done, it can be done.
  12. 6 likes
    Sushkov Guitars #0001 The Saracen This is the very first guitar I built in my new shop in Prague last autumn though not my first build in general. Specs: Mahogany body & neck American walnut top, pickup covers and headstock veneer Rosewood fingerboard Set-neck guitar construction with archtop Custom low output pickups with AlNiCo IV and AlNiCo V bar magnets. HipShot Grip-Lock tuners Dual-action truss-rod SINTOMS extra hard NiSilBer frets 2.5 mm Tonepros Tune-O-Matic bridge with stopbar tailpiece Rare soviet paper-oil capacitors 2 Volume + 2 Tone pots with wooden knobs matching top wood 3-way pickup selector switch.
  13. 6 likes
    @2.5itim @curtisa Guys - I contacted the guys at Hipshot and they confirmed that there was an error of 0,27" in the offset. You got it more or less right on the head with 0,25". Bill passes on his thanks for snagging this and hopes that it didn't cause any inconvenience. Hipshot should be correcting their dimensioning in the meantime.
  14. 6 likes
    The idea had been floating around for a few years and I tested it as working a long time ago, however it was Andrew that made it happen as a permanent jig. Currently working on the impractical super deluxe version:
  15. 5 likes
    There was one fret which left a bit of a skid mark on the treble side, but any evidence has since been obliterated with the board being re-radiused. Back on to the neck, the heel has been reshaped to eliminate the beefy transition and the overall profile tidied up to remove any unevenness. There were a couple of lumps at various points that I've managed to level out, and narrowing down the sides has improved the overall slenderness of the neck without sacrificing thickness: The difference in heel transition is best illustrated here, with these obligatory before and after shots: And the black epoxy has also been scraped level and the logo finalised, ready to be re-sealed under clear.:
  16. 5 likes
    Exploder MS8 progress! Body rough cut and cleaned up in the drum sander: Routing the body outline. First step uses a spiral upcut bit with guide bushing, second is a very short template bit, final is a downshear flush trim. Some dude is in my shop, cutting out neck pockets. It worked out ok. Roughing the pickup and control cavities: Routing complete, now on a boatload of sanding. Next time: on to the neck. Thanks for looking!
  17. 5 likes
    Alrighty gentlemen. Had some progress happen this weekend. I've been avoiding gluing the fretboard on for quite a while... had some issues on my last build and it didn't go 100% to plan so overcompensated this time around... wound up with a 10000% straight neck tho... so I think i'll do it this way again.... Also finished the round over on the back side of the body + the binding channel on the front side... the arm contour was a complete hooker to do. I don't have one of them fancy jig's that follows the contour so I wound up marking the channel with a pencil and routing the channel in steps (you can see via the burning) then I cleaned it up with a chisel... my old school tool skills... are... well... severely lacking... so im rather proud of myself on this one.... sadly, I may run out of time on this build... gremlin #2 is due any day now... that's likely to put a severe hamper on my progress... as long as I fnish before may (his b-day) i'll be aiet... but figured I couldn't leave you all in the dark about my super secret finish..... took our little guy out to a fabric store here in town and let him pick out some fabric.... glued down with super 77 and filled with weldbond and leveled (Im trying desperately to avoid epoxy due to the fumes). all that's left is to clearcoat over with some waterbased polyurethane that I bought.... should look absolutely SICK once completed..... and it's spiderman,... so the little guy's gonna lose his nuggets....
  18. 5 likes
    Unfortunately I've not had much time to work on this over the last few days but have started installing things. After making sure the neck fits as intended!
  19. 5 likes
    Hey PG friends! Sorry I've been so absent lately, school and work have been keeping me crazy busy. That coupled with a few tool-failure-induced guitar problems have conspired to make me feel less social than usual. I've got one build newly done and two more in the home stretch, so here's looking toward a better tomorrow! First up, my freshly finished Pioneer MS6. This is going to be auctioned off at an event for the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation's West Palm Beach chapter (@CFFPalmBeach on FB). I'm going to get some more pics and a demo video before giving it away. Specs: 25-26" scale Alder body Maple neck/fretboard Jescar 47095 stainless fretwire Hipshot staggered open-gear locking tuners Custom milled aluminum bridge (thanks @2.5itim!) w/Graphtech saddles DiMarzio Red Velvet neck, True Velvet T bridge pickups This guitar has an evil twin.... I'll start behaving properly and post more pics this week. Until next time, thanks for taking a look!
  20. 5 likes
  21. 5 likes
    final update: it's in the GoTM contest for January!
  22. 5 likes
    So I carved the top to a cylidrical section. Radius is about the same as the scale length, 27". Readjusted the neck pocket depth and angle four times before satisfied. Now just to decide knob and jack placement. I like the volume knob right under the center of the bridge pickup, but for most people it stands in the way of strumming. On the last photo there is a pencil line of a planned back contour, but I guess it might be comfortable even without it.
  23. 5 likes
    Thanks Chris (x2!) The first build out of my new shop is done! Better pics and a demo video soon. Specs Body: Chambered swamp ash w/walnut top Neck: 7pc maple/rosewood laminate Fretboard: Indian rosewood, Jescar 58118SS fretwire Hardware: Hipshot hardtail and staggered open gear tuners Pickups: DiMarzio Air Norton/Air Zone
  24. 5 likes
    This will likely get a few more coats during the week and then it will hang and cure whilst I travel around the country a bit over the holidays. And finally a few shots with some low angle natural light from the setting sun. Whew, that was fun! SR
  25. 5 likes
    Let's put some engineer theories to practice... ^^ According to the clamping pressure scheme that Prostheta shared earlier, and making use of a 40mm thick caul with the shape of the body, every clamp should cover about 80mm diameter around it, so I've made a circled template and start covering all the surface, marking the exact location of each clamp. That was cool because you don't have to spend time figuring where the clamp should be, which makes all the process a lot easier and faster. 27 clamps were needed for this operation. I got a clamp skyline. Hope it's ok, if I get a gap somewhere I will kill myself.
  26. 5 likes
    I started this a while back, and back porch lacquering was such a headache that I shelved it for over a year. I was about to sell all of my tools but decided to try some satin I had sitting around before giving up. With that said, I'm back at it on another project. Since these pics I've updated the tuning machines and set it up properly.
  27. 5 likes
    Wow it has almost been a month since I buffed it out. I was working on the bass and was also waiting for a hard case but thanks to Auspost that hard case is lost and I don't know where it is. I was holding out for the hard case before assembling but enough was enough so I bought a gig bag locally instead. I think I have too many hard cases anyway haha. Of course I'll be getting a refund. So I hereby present to you, my second build. I will take better pictures with my DSLR on a better day of course. I just spent the last 2 days trying to wire it together, only to find out the problem was with the pot, not my wiring! Specs: Hardware: Gotoh SG318 tuning machines Kluson modern string retainer Wilkinson 5+1 contemporary tremolo Electronics: Seymour Duncan JB (trembucker) in the bridge Seymour Duncan Jazz in the neck 5 way super switch wiring: 1. bridge, 2. bridge (north) + neck (south), 3. bridge + neck, 4. neck (north) + bridge (south), 5. neck 500K audio Push pull volume pot, with a blower switch to bypass all electronics and send the bridge pickup straight to the output jack, plus treble bleed mod. 500K audio tone pot with Fender's grease bucket tone circuit. Sorry for the blur pics. Will take better ones soon.
  28. 5 likes
    Consider it finished. I have not wired the push-push pots yet, but it is working, set up. Sounds fairly good. Do you feel it too, the stress when you first string a new one up, trying to guess the character from the first string not yet tuned, and it slowly starts to show as you tune and set up? This one was good sounding right from the first strum, What a relief.
  29. 5 likes
    Time to sit back and watch the paint dry.....and the grass grow. SR
  30. 5 likes
    And finally the first shots of clear. SR
  31. 5 likes
    The limba/wenge guitar is in the happy hands of its new owner! The owner is going to work on a video and sound clips soon, though I can assure you that this is one mean-sounding guitar. As always, I'll post it as soon as I have it! Thanks for joining me on this journey...now on to the next one!
  32. 5 likes
    Phew! After a few long, dusty nights, I'm finally done sanding! We're up to P600 here, which is where I like to be before applying oil. I'm hoping to get the oil process started this weekend, stay tuned for some cool finish pics!
  33. 5 likes
    YOU GUYS. IT'S IN MY APARTMENT. And now for the good(?) part: I made a little video!
  34. 4 likes
    And here we are.... managed to finish her up JUST in time for the gremlin's birthday in about 2 weeks. Still needs the intonation set and the pickup heights tweeked but other than that she's as ready as she's ever going to be.... I'm not 100% happy with the water based poly / finish but not much I can do about it at this point in time. either way, should be one hell of a happy gremlin.... cuz shit yeah... it's Spider-Man....
  35. 4 likes
    Part three: The neck! This was a real pain in the... You know what! It was all done with a Stanley No.7 and a bandsaw. (Apart from the headstock angle... That was my No.4.) Neck side: Truss rod slot cut... In hindsight I probably should have moved the nut slot back so it wasn't directly in line with the nut... Next time I'll try to remember that... It looks like that planing was done badly... I thought so too, but it's straight as... Well my straight edge... It just has a really funky grain and figuring to it that makes it look wobbly. Neck rough cut... So close to test fitting... (And yes the body is like me... A little overweight, but I'm working on it ) I got so carried away with the rest I forgot to take pictures, But one more... Where the neck and body met on the first day, sorry about the quality but... It really is starting to look like a guitar now!!! Low lighting makes everything look kinda yellow but hey... It was a long neck making day and the sun had disappeared by the time I got this taken. There's a LOT more to do, more shaping, more routing and every woodworkers favourite past time... Sanding. But this is it so far, Thank you for taking the time to look at this project! Mike.
  36. 4 likes
    The bending iron was on early this morning and the tops bindings were done by half 8, glued on by 9. For the bindings I used water thinned titebond and taped with cheapo masking tape. As the bends were a good fit, not much pressure needed at all. There are a couple of gaps here and there, but nothing to be concerned about. The one thing I'm quite pleased about is the mitring around the wedge. A simple 3 ply purfling was added to the top and secured with super glue wicked into the channel from the outside edge. I could have done a much better job butting the white purfling together at the join, but again, I'm not crying over this and am reasonably happy for this as a first attempt. I'm halfway through scraping this down in the second picture - stopped for tea. This afternoon - binding the back. Whoop.
  37. 4 likes
    Ahh, I see! It'd be interesting to experiment with, at the very least. Sapele/maple 7 sanded.... And oiled!
  38. 4 likes
    It's blue In dim light it looks almost black. In the light it's vibrant. It's the sort of colour that is not easy to capture on camera, quite similar to Rickenbacker Azureglo in places, but with the natural variation of dyed wood. It looks lighter in the photo than in real life. I've got it sitting on a sheet of white paper to try to give my phone camera a clue to the white balance, and has the unfinished maple cover in place too. I must admit (now) that I was tempted for a few minutes to keep the back natural. However there are so many guitars with a natural ash back - and mine definitely isn't "so many guitars" . Even my wife is coming round after several days of "you've ruined it" comments. I will be knocking it back slightly with some 0000 grade wire wool. That's more to even out the slight streaks and to lighten up the end grain slightly where the dye took more easily. The silk of the unfinished dye looks great, but I will be applying a clear lacquer and going "shiny" with it. Anyway, I'm very pleased with that. It's pretty close to my original vision. When I get to the top I'll try to burst it slightly, but still keep the colour saturated.
  39. 4 likes
    Hi again, I won't go into any major detail on this because I'm (slowly) drafting a 'Bedroom Builders - veneering without the tears' tutorial that is hugely overdue but will be finished soon-ish. I got approached recently by a member off the Basschat forum to see if I could make his entry-level Jazz bass lighter. I'll do this in photos up to present but happy to add more details if anyone wants them. It's a nice playing, nice looking £120 bass: ...but one that weighs heading towards 11lb It turns out to be solid Ash, despite it's price point. No point in messing about: It is always surprising how little weight is removed...but it all helps. This had got rid of 1lb 12oz once the thin basswood caps were on: Then out comes the iron...this is what the tutorial will be about: And on goes the red ink: And now you're up to date. Next will be the clear coats and veneering of the headstock
  40. 4 likes
    I usually start building during summer holidays but this time it was a winter start I bought a swamp ash body blank at a guitar show in Stockholm, Neck and fretboard blanks were already in my possession: No access to the band saw at my summer house, Japanese saw it is instead: Routed the lines, shaped the headstock: Fretboard gluing, clamps-r-us: Well, there it is. No visible glue line: Ordinary dot inlays this time around: Shaping the curve between fretboard and headstock: Starting the neck shaping with files, knives, spokeshave, scrapers...: Headstock starting to look ok. The neck is also fretted now, forgot to take pics...: Swamp ash body blank and drawing of the body shape: Cutting the body with an electric jigsaw (no band saw, remember?) and then sanding it to shape with sanding drums on an electric drill: Rounding the body edges: Rasps, knives, scrapers etc again, Body contours!: Made two pickguard designs: Chose the larger one, made a few in different materials. The metallic one is sheet aluminium that i machine turned with a brass brush attached to a Dremel: Clear nitro as a primer/pore filler: Mary Kaye white nitro from a spray can: A little masking..: ... and Sonic blue nitro spray can: I really wasn´t going to do the little fiddly details on this one... Didn´t hold my promise. Logo time. Aluminium, flamed maple, red dye: Dying the neck: Many layers of Tru-Oil: Tuners on, not much left now: And done: ...and another little detail, a switch tip to match the body and pickguard:
  41. 4 likes
    I'm usually extremely busy at work, but as we've just turned out a couple of big projects I'm getting a bit of workshop time to myself. It could be crazy busy again next week, so I'm trying to get as much done as I can now. The CAD file is pretty much there, so I loaded up a chunk of 40mm MDF and started building the MDF prototype. I'm doing this to pinpoint any weaknesses or design flaws before I start chopping up nice bits of hardwood. Here's the back of the body with the electronics cavity. I drilled holes for locating dowels and flipped the body to rout the front. Here it is, fresh off the CNC. The back, so you can see the cavity and neck fixing points better. and finally, the whole prototype with the neck attached - I didn't get pics of the neck being cut. ...that nice MAC is the firm's, not mine Next step will be to see how all the hardware fits this prototype, make adjustments to the CAD model (I've already identified a few changes that need to be made), then hopefully onto a block of hardwood In the meantime I'll be trying to finish the bass design so I can start making that too. laters potaters Z.
  42. 4 likes
    Got it strung up for a test run. This thing plays and feels dang good. Even though i made the neck a little thinner than i would have liked, it still feels great. Put the pickups in today but didnt wire them. Hopefully tomorrow.
  43. 4 likes
    Decided to round off the edges the old school way - using my vintage spoke shave which was given to me over 30 years ago, it did need a bit of a sharpen but then was ready to go. Then it was time to use it to start shaping the body, ran my belt sander over it to get the rough shape and finished off by hand to get yhe final shape. Then the whole body was sanded using 120, 180 and 360 grit sandpaper after several hours of sanding my arms and fingers told me that they had had enough so after cleaning up went iI ndoorsand and thought it would be a good idea to make sure everthing went togrther. The weather forecast for tomorrow is dry so maybe the final sand.
  44. 4 likes
    I've not updated this build in a while simply because most of my work focus has been on writing for the site! Oops. Guitar builders that don't build, eh? So anyway. The next job in the queue has been to edge sand the body wings to 240 grit and confirm that the outlines are "good" prior to binding. Any faults in the outline translate straight to the binding channels, so that is pretty damn important. Two channels were cut using the edge guide on my Makita palm router; one for the main tort binding and the second for the two fine purfling lines. The binding was arranged in order and "glued" at one end using only acetone; the binding dissolves in acetone, so it "creates its own glue". A few q-tips/cotton buds were used to liberally soak the wood, apply the binding/purfling and then wick a little more acetone top and bottom. Masking tape tensioned across the binding keeps it secure whilst the acetone evaporated. After 24hrs of drying, the binding was scraped back using a card scraper and a Stanley knife blade with a hook turned. Aside from a few stray fibres having torn out from the spalted top being "replaced" with binding squeezeout, everything is clean as a whistle. Next! Oh yes, the corner at the upper horn was heated with a hair dryer to soften it before easing around the tight corner. This alone took 4-5 minutes to patiently get right.
  45. 4 likes
    Thanks guys! Ok, so here it is: As I said, not what I was looking for, but still can work I guess.... at least is more ergonomic than the original carving. It still needs some work. I have to remove all the bumps in the mahogany stripe and I wish I can remove also that dark stain in the top, I think it will disappear after some sanding... let's see. Cheers!
  46. 4 likes
    Over and out: And for @KnightroExpress 's benefit, some obligatory roxxorz: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/24052640/HM7 Test.mp3 Regarding the Fishmans, cleans were neck + bridge on voicing 1, distorted rhythm guitars were bridge pickup on voicing 2 and the various leads/melodies were either neck or bridge on voicing 1. Ended up redoing the nut. Despite the fact the strings were unlikley to pop out of the shallow slots I wasn't happy with the way it looked. In hindsight, if I'd planned it better I think I would have tried a zero fret with these string locks. Their proximity to the back of the nut makes fettling the nut slots quite time consuming, as you can't just slacken off the string and pop it off to one side to fine tune the slot with a file. Every time you have to tweak the slot depth the string has to come off altogether and then the string lock needs to be removed from the headstock to give you enough room to use a slotting file.
  47. 4 likes
    So here's stage two, in which we've gotten some painting done and taken delivery of a few machines.
  48. 4 likes
    thanks. Me too. nervy trip to the bandsaw today. This was a bit outside of what it could cope with really, but I ended up with two faceplates. The next build is going to have the headstock on the right way around.
  49. 4 likes
    I think we have a winner! It's the best finish I've pulled off yet. The flaws are pretty minimal. I will say that the primer, silver flake, and top coats don't melt into a seamless lacquer even though they are all lacquer based. Primarily the sliver and primer create a weak point and I had a pretty nasty chip when sliding the switch into the body. Am I going to show my lackluster patch job? Heck no! I like this angle too much!
  50. 4 likes
    Here is the mostly finished product. I haven't set it up or tested the electronics yet and it has some wicked string buzz. I'm also going to change the pickup ring to a simpler design and maybe out of maple instead of Ebony. The knobs are just temporary as well, still not sure what to go with there. Overall I'm pretty happy with my first guitar. A big thank you to everyone on this site for the direct help as well as the inspiration and problem solving on so many threads for answering questions I didn't know I had yet. Now for #2.