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ProjectGuitar.com

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  1. ProjectGuitar.com

    Guitar of the Month

    Time to Vote!
  2. The Project Guitar.com "Guitar of the Month" contest is a showcase for all the members, so show us your axe in this thread! This contest is open to any and all members and will be continued each month for a place showing your creation on the homepage! The winner of course will have hi/her guitar featured on the homepage of Project Guitar.com and if you have a website the picture will link directly to it if you so choose (even commercial site's). If your a forum member you will also be upgraded to a Featured member which allows you to see the Advanced Chat section and download area. So show us your creation in this thread! You've got till midnite EST the 23rd of December then this thread gets locked and the voting starts! Side note, if you are unable to post a picture you can e-mail one to Brian and it will be posted for you
  3. The Project Guitar.com "Guitar of the Month" contest is a showcase for all the members, so show us your axe in this thread! This contest is open to any and all members and will be continued each month for a place showing your creation on the homepage! The winner of course will have hi/her guitar featured on the homepage of Project Guitar.com and if you have a website the picture will link directly to it if you so choose (even commercial site's). If your a forum member you will also be upgraded to a Featured member which allows you to see the Advanced Chat section and download area. So show us your creation in this thread! You've got till midnite EST the 23rd of November then this thread gets locked and the voting starts! Side note, if you are unable to post a picture you can e-mail one to Brian and it will be posted for you
  4. ProjectGuitar.com

    October Contest

    The Project Guitar.com "Guitar of the Month" contest is a showcase for all the members, so show us your axe in this thread! This contest is open to any and all members and will be continued each month for a place showing your creation on the homepage! The winner of course will have hi/her guitar featured on the homepage of Project Guitar.com and if you have a website the picture will link directly to it if you so choose (even commercial site's). If your a forum member you will also be upgraded to a Featured member which allows you to see the Advanced Chat section and download area. So show us your creation in this thread! You've got till midnite EST the 23rd of October then this thread gets locked and the voting starts! Side note, if you are unable to post a picture you can e-mail one to Brian and it will be posted for you
  5. ProjectGuitar.com

    September Contest

    Since Project Guitar.com is officially 1 year old this month I would first of all like to thank each and everyone of you for helping make this place what it has become today. Project Guitar has grown in leaps and bounds over the past year and it is time the Guitar of the Month contest is handed over to all the members, so show us your axe in this thread! The contest is open to any and all members and will be continued each month for a place showing your creation on the homepage! If you have a website the picture will link directly to it if you so choose (even commercial site's). If your a forum member you will also be upgraded to a Featured member which allows you to see the Advanced Chat section and download area. An additional prize (yet to be determined) will be awarded to the one person that win's this contest in a poll to be taken starting the 22nd and ending on the 29th of this month. So show us your creation in this thread! You've got till midnite EST the 21st then this thread gets locked! Side note, if you are unable to post a picture you can e-mail one to Brian and it will be posted for you
  6. ProjectGuitar.com

    August Contest

    This month I thought I would do something a little different so here we go Find the cheapest guitar for sale at a fixed price! The rules are simple: 1. It can be your own or somebody else's but it must be a legit sale advertisment on the web. 2. Classified add's in forums do not count. 3. Auctions are allowed but the price has to be the lowest available at the end of this contest so fixed price auctions and those with the lowest buy it now are the only qualifiers. 4. This contest is open to everyone! 5. In the event of a tie (lowest price) the winner will be the first one to post his/her find. 6. You must post it in this thread on the forum to win. This contest will run till the end of the month! The person that finds the lowest price guitar on the internet will win a magnifying headset like the one pictured below:
  7. ProjectGuitar.com

    August Contest

    Splitting the contest up into two seperate catagorys with the same prize for each. Acoustic and electric solid body Remember to post them here! IM's and e-mails don't count folks
  8. ProjectGuitar.com

    July Contest

    This month I thought I would do something a little different so here we go Find the August Guitar of the Month for Project Guitar! The rules are simple: 1. It can be your own or somebody else's. 2. It must be from somebody who has not previously won Guitar of the Month. 3. It must be a one of a kind either in finish or design. We will close the search 1 week prior to the end of the month on July 24. Then voting start's in the poll section and ends on July 30th. In the event there are more then 10 entry's there will be a vote off between the poll winners since more then one poll will be taken. The person that found the winning "Guitar of the Month" for August will win a magnifying headset like the one pictured below: Rule#2 edited to clear things up
  9. ProjectGuitar.com

    June Contest

    tsl602000 wins with a point count of 11 PM me your address bro and I'll get your prize shipped out to you next week! Thank you for entering everyone!
  10. ProjectGuitar.com

    June Contest

    Ok everyone has visited the supply page at least once. At the end of this contest I will be splitting up the supply section into the 9 different groups currently listed so this months contest is to find suppliers not currently listed! Here is how you score points! You get 1 point for every category the supplier falls into but you must also list the category's with the link see example below: Stew Mac- Guitar Kits and Supplies, Hardware Supplies Direct, Inlay Supplies, Paint and Finishing Supplies, Tool Supplies (this would count as 5 points) Suppliers that fit into the Specialty Supplies section count as 5 points each since they only manufacture or supply 1 item. Your Points double if they ship worldwide and you tell us in your post! Your links must be to the home page of the supplier and not currently listed on the supply page anywhere. The winner of this contest will receive this handy boxed toolset shipped anywhere in the world as their prize:
  11. ProjectGuitar.com

    April-May Contest

    And the winner is LGM Guitars! Don't worry folks the neck will be back up as he has already told me he is going to do something special to it then return it for another contest BTW to the folks that though Project Guitar.com had just about every tutorial on the net already Look here
  12. ProjectGuitar.com

    April-May Contest

    Yes I know I'm late so this one will be for both April and May! So let's get started and everyone hit your bookmark folder and search engines again. What your looking for this time? Build sites and tutorial sites of course! The old basic rule's apply: 1. The site must not be listed currently on Project Guitar.com 2. Post only the home page website address of your entry 3. First to post a site claims it for the point count. 4. You must post which catagory the link will fit in to. Now on to the prize, just about the most common problem people come up with when working on a guitar doing a custom job for the first time is they don't take the time to practice and experiment on something else first! Even I use an old beater neck to practice on as pictured here! The winner will get a new neck to practice on so you don't have to trash your own! It is factory finished with some of the toughest stuff I have ever run across so you can even practice removing finishes! Contest deadline is May 31st but remember rule 3
  13. ProjectGuitar.com

    April-May Contest

    Winner to be announced soon (soon as I go through all the links and weed out the links already featured).
  14. ProjectGuitar.com

    Special Rules for This Section

    1. All Standard forum rules apply here. 2. All discussions posted in this section are for the benifit of the members that can access this area and are not to be discussed outside of this section of the forum unless permission has been posted by the original author of the information in question.
  15. ProjectGuitar.com

    2002 Winners

    2002 December 2002 - Alex Van Der Linde November 2002 - Jonathan Ghesquiére October 2002 - John Johnson
  16. ProjectGuitar.com

    December Contest

    :o Ok BeAR I can appreciate and respect that, I thought you were trying to get points in this contest and wasn't aware of that............ And now back to our regularly scheduled thread...........
  17. ProjectGuitar.com

    November Contest

    This contest will run the length of November Everyone that participates following the rules listed below will become a winner. All you have to do is submit a link in this thread that is relevant to the Project Guitar.com web site. The rules : 1. It must be a site that is either useful in the modification, building or repairing of guitars and you should post where you think the site should go in the Project Guitar website. 2. No retail sites- links to sites such as Musicians Friend or other places that just sell guitars and equipment have no real relevance to the concept behind project guitar. The only exception would be sites of manufacturers for the "Obligatory Guitar Manufacturers" listings. 3. The site must not be previously listed in the Project Guitar.com web site elsewhere. 4. Home page links only- in other words 10 links that tell different things all from the same main website to boost your score isn't an option. They would and will count as 1. 5. The first to post via time stamp of the board is the one who gets credit in the event two different people post the same link. 6. Rules subject to change as needed in order to promote a healthy contest. 7. Winners are responsible for any and all import taxes if you live outside of the continental United States. 8. You must have a valid e-mail address listed in your profile so that I may contact you to find out what size and colors you want at the end of the contest. Here is what you will win and how you are scored: For each link used by Project Guitar.com, you will receive 1 Bobbin Topper (retail value $2 USD) furnished from Universal Jems.com. These will be distributed the following week after the closing of this month via standard air mail (included). The person that list's the highest number of usable links will receive not only their Bobbin Toppers but also a Project Guitar.com coffee cup (retail value $12 USD) as grand prize for this contest. There will be No substitutes of prize winnings. All prizes will be awarded as is and no cash prize's are available for this contest. In the event Universal Jems is out of the specific color of Bobbin Topper requested an alternate color should be provided at time of request for your list Let the contest begin
  18. ProjectGuitar.com

    Your Profile And Signature

    Yes anyone caught having a direct link from all of their posts to a business site in either the signature or avatar can and will be suspended (min 30 days), it is only fair to keep it this way so that the supporters of Project Guitar be allowed to go about business in the appropriate section for their level of support. This really shouldn't be an issue but I have actually had more than one complaint about it. If I allowed everyone in the forum to post business deals on every catagory and in every forum this would surely turn into nothing more than a business center and not the educational experience it is ment to be in the first place. Plus the lack of supporting revenue from spammers would cause the web site and forum to end due to lack of funds, it may be free to the general public but it still cost's a lot to run both a web site and a forum.
  19. ProjectGuitar.com

    Dress up your trem cavity!

    Grab a piece of paper and a pencil. Hold the paper securely over your trem cavity and rub the outline of your tremolo cavity using the side of the pencil lead. A softer pencil is safer than a harder lead. Place your image over a piece of self adhesive felt. If you prefer the more "factory" look you can use a large piece of inner tube tire repair rubber. Using scissors cut out your piece following the lines you created when you made your image. It's better to stray outside the lines than into them! Place your cutout into the cavity to make sure it fits correctly. If it doesn't, remove it and trim the edge where it is bound up. While it is in the cavity, flip your body over and mark along the edge where you need to trim off the excess with a pencil. Grab your scissors and follow the line you just created.... Peel and stick - it's that simple!
  20. Here are the basic tools you will need to get this job done. On the right are a few that aren't necessary but they do come in handy when working on this type of stripping project! Here is why this body is a very good candidate for using a chemical stripper. It has already been refinished by somebody else. Often that can be the case when you're buying second-hand out of a pawn shop or off an Internet auction. These are often really good deals too. Don't be surprised if you run into body imperfections when stripping one that has already been refinished. It is very common and we will deal with how to take care of those issues in another tutorial. If the body has a factory finish, it might not always be an ideal candidate for chemical stripping. Generally the modern paints used in factories are near bullet-proof after curing, and even when you get the top layers off you may well still have an epoxy sealant to deal with. If you want to get through to the wood itself, either strip as much off using this chemical method as possible and then move onto sanding or just sand through the lot. If you're just wanting to repaint the body, stripping the original paint down to an original sealant is a good thing - the factory work is usually a great base to work from! OK let's get started. Wearing your gloves lay the body down on your newspapers and start to paint the chemical stripper over that one side with your disposable brush. We're only doing one side at a time. You need to have a stack of newspaper under your body - you will change it out for every action that you take along this process. Since the grain of the wood in guitar bodies runs from top to bottom and not across, spread the stripper in this direction only. Paint it on working from one end across to the other rather than using a back and forth motion. This ensures that stripper that has already gone to work on the paint isn't being spread around onto fresh areas where it will be less effective. Some of the stripper will run over the sides - this isn't a bad thing since it will help loosen up the paint for when you get to that. Don't worry about it too much, but don't push lots of stripper over the sides as it will just fall off and go to waste. Next comes the most boring part! Cover the face of the guitar you have applied the stripper to with Saran wrap, and just let the body sit coated in stripper for at least 15-20 minutes or whatever the instructions on your product recommends. Go watch TV or listen to the radio - just give the chemical stripper time to do it's job. Don't leave it to sit for an excessive amount of time as it can dry up, become crusty and more difficult to remove than needs be. You may have noticed there is a glass bowl sitting beside the guitar. I used this to pour the stripper into as I am brushing it on to the body instead of pouring directly on. You will get less contaminated stripper if you do the work in sections at a time. It is also a great place to set your brush down and keep it wet while your waiting on the paint to separate from the wood. After you have waited for the required time you can take a plastic scraper and start to lift the paint up off the body, as pictured on the left below. Having two scrapers is useful so that you can remove the junk off the first scraper using your second. Bear in mind that many chemical strippers will soften and deteriorate rubber, so don't use a rubber squeegee or scraper! Metal scrapers risk gouging the wood, so stick to plastic. Be sure to work in the same direction that you spread out the stripper (with the grain of the wood), never against it by going side to side. The simple reason for this is you have a smaller chance of damaging the wood surface and you won't be pushing any of the paint back down into the grain. Now that you have scraped as much paint off as you can, go ahead and re-coat that same surface with another coat of stripper same procedure as the first time. You can let it sit for less time than you did before since it should already be fairly well-coated with the old stripper, which just needs a little "push" from a fresh application. After you have finished giving your body the second coat you can clean off your scraper(s) and paint brush, getting rid of nasty and hard paint debris that doesn't come off from drawing it across the newspaper. HINT: For some of you it may take several coats to get the body looking the way you want it to, be patient and repeat the last few steps over and over till you get to this point. Continue the process of application and scraping paint off the body until it looks pretty much clear of the majority of the paint. Once you think you've got the lot, take a rag or paper towel and clear out the excess from the cavities. Be thorough because the combination of paint and stripper will slowly harden into crusty junk that is very difficult to remove later! Now flip the body over and replace the top layers of newspaper, disposing of them safely. Before proceeding on the next side, make sure that you have a clean workspace so that you can begin the process from the beginning. Clean brushes, scrapers and a fresh bowl of stripper. The only difference is that you probably not have some stripper on the sides already working its magic for you. Just as before you will have to do the body along the grain of the wood and take it off in several layers. Again, wipe off the final remnants of paint with rags or paper towels, and dispose of them properly. Set your body up on a fresh sheet of newspaper, clean your workspace and get ready to do the sides. At this point you shouldn't have to brush that much stripper on the body since it has likely been dripping down from the top and bottom! Scrape away any loose paint and contaminated stripper first. Apply fresh stripper around the sides and scrape paint away until your entire body is clear. Now comes the easy part! Once you have wiped all the excess paint away from the body you can either lightly sand remaining paint from difficult areas or give your body an acetone bath. That's right - Acetone! It evaporates quickly, doesn't leave a residue, plus it works wonders in removing paint from wood grain. Once it evaporates, the body is safe to handle without gloves. Bear in mind the most important safety aspects of working with Acetone. It evaporates quickly and produces a LOT of hazardous fumes which are both explosive and dangerous to breathe. Read the safety notes on the container! Here are the basic rules to follow: Pick a place with more than adequate ventilation, your health is more important than the job.Wear your safety gear (skin and eye protection is important with strong chemical strippers which can burn and blind you instantly).Take your time and be sure to let the stripper do its job. Read the instructions!Start with a day where you have plenty of time to complete the work without having to come back to it another day.Keep changing newspapers as you do each step giving you a clean and organised area to work in.Clean your scraper often.Lifting the paint off the body is easier and better than just pushing it around.Be prepared to take as many breaks as needed. This is potentially dangerous work and keeping focus is important in carrying it out safely!Anticipate problem areas and work around them, you can save these for last.Always walk away for awhile if the job becomes to much. Seriously it can wait.(Editor's note: Never be tempted to blow chemical stripper from out of pickup leg routs with compressed air. Ask me why.)
  21. While this is a fairly easy finish, do not seal the wood on your body or you will end up sanding it down again! The first step is to is completely strip the guitar's body and headstock of any and all finish and sealer. Using a common heat gun for removing paint, darken any area that shows promising figure in your wood. Take your time darkening the wood! It is easier to get good results going slowly than it is scorching the crap out of it! Pick up a quart of Minwax #33 Green Bayou water-based stain Clear Base and color codes 107-9 103-24 102-39 113-5. Time to stain, of course. For this I recommend using a damp sponge since you will have much better control over your stain. Whilst staining, use fine sandpaper (320-400 grit) to knock back any raised grain between coats. So you're asking yourself, "why the Green Bayou when this is a BSB tutorial?". Well the guitar pictured above on the left is an actual BSB where the one pictured above on the right is the tutorial body drying. So you tell me.... (hint: I had the color computer analyzed at the paint store) Be sure to even out the color as much as possible and don't sweat it if the stain refuses to take (residual sealer can do this) or is light or blotchy in some areas. For spots such as that, just lightly hit the body with the heat gun to hide the problem and re-apply stain. Before you re-assemble your guitar it would be a good idea to give it a protective matte clear top coat. I used Krylon brand. This will dull any areas that appear shiny and also help protect the stain from rubbing off.
  22. As I have worked on my “relic obsession” (and make no mistake….it IS an obsession!) One of the biggest challenges that I had was figuring out the best way to get that ambered 'vintage' look. The goal I was shooting for was that of a ’62 Strat neck & the color of the headstock & back of the neck (I wanted to start with a rosewood neck first. I plan on tackling an all maple neck at a later time). The target neck has this cool brownish-goldish-amber finish (that’s quite a mouthful!). I wanted to make it look authentic; not only in color…but REAL vintage necks bring out the grain of the maple. The most common way to TRY to achieve this is for people to add amber to their clear lacquer. It looks o.k…but as I stated before I have a RELIC obsession & “o.k.” is just not good enough!! Also, the “amber-clear” technique actually MASKS the wood grain! Think of it as having plastic wrap over your Television screen….you can still see the picture, but it just isn't right! Well…. here is my technique on how to make it RIGHT: The first secret is that you have to stain the wood, not the finish. This is the ONLY way to really make a neck look like it came from 1962! Here’s what I did to create the “secret sauce”. I used ColorTone concentrated liquid stains from Stewart MacDonald. The colors you need are Yellow, Red & Tobacco Brown. The mix ratio of yellow, red, and brown water stain for "vintage maple" is more art than science. I eyeballed it & had good results BEFORE YOU START!!! YOU NEED TO USE SCRAP MAPLE! Don’t put this stuff on ‘till it’s how you want it to look on the scrap! You don't want to test it on paper, it will just soak it up & not give you accurate results. Now for the secret ingredients.... Start with full strength yellow in a bowl. Add warm water until the color isn’t too strong when wiped on your piece of scrap maple. Then add little drops of full strength brown and red to “amber” it. When you think it's right, test it on your scrap maple & put on the clear lacquer. Remember, it won't look right until it's sprayed with clear lacquer. If you REALLY want to bring out the grain, you can stain the wood and then sand most of it off again. The grain will hold the color & the rest of the maple will sand back to natural. For an even more DRAMATIC effect, try it with black or silver stain to really make the grain stand out. Then, when you wipe on your final coat of stain and don’t sand it off, the grain is like 3D & comes right out at you! This technique looks GREAT on a birdseye maple neck! You can wipe stain on with a clean rag or by spraying. I think it looks better & is far easier wiping it on. Once you got the color, clear & results you were looking for on the scrap, repeat the process on your neck! I have used "the REAL Vintage look" technique for refinishing a vintage neck AND for making a new one look old! You will be amazed at how much better this looks, especially if you compare side by side with a neck done with the “Amber-Clear” technique! Here are some tips: This technique raises the grain of the wood. Before you start staining make the wood damp to raise the grain. After it dries, sand off the rough spots with fine grit sandpaper.To avoid streaks wipe with the grain (lengthwise)For best results, let the stained wood dry at least 48 hours before applying clear.PRACTICE ON SCRAP!! I used an old maple baseball bat & got very good results (I guess that would make it a “Batocaster”)A Little ColorTone goes a VERY LONG WAY!!!WEAR Gloves! Otherwise you will "relic" your hands for a VERY long time. Please, trust me on this one!
  23. ProjectGuitar.com

    JEM-Style Monkey Grip Handle

    You will need a few common tools to make this on your guitar. Other tools can achieve the same ends if needs be. Accurate ruler Awl/nail/centre punch 3/4" (19mm) and 1" (25-26mm) Forstner bits Jigsaw/scroll saw Files/rasps/sandpaper Router Straight bottom cut router bit 1/8" (3mm) roundover bit First of all grab a square and measure from the very tip of the upper horn down 5-1/2" (140mm), parallel to the center of the body. Make a horizontal mark 5/8" (16mm) from your line of measurement in, towards the center of the body as shown. This method works for both AANJ and standard neck joint bodies. Mark a line parallel to the center of the body from the beginning of the point you just marked. Make a second line parallel to it 1/4" (6,4mm) in towards the center of the body and then a third line another 3/32" (2,4mm) in. Make a line 90° from your first mark across the other two vertical lines. Using this as a starting point, draw a second horizontal line below it by 27/32" (21,4mm). Draw a third line 1" (25,4mm) below this second line, and follow up with a fourth line 13/16" (20,6mm) below this. You will end up with this marking layout: The first points where you will be drilling through the body are located at the various intersections of these lines. The first hole is located at the first mark made (top left in the grid). The second center is located 1/4" in and down 27/32" (second down, second in). For the third center point you will have to drop down 1" and go in 3/32" (third down, third in), and finally the fourth hole's center is be located dropping down the final 13/16" but moving back to the 1/4" marked line (fourth down, second in). Time to take out an awl, centre punch or a trusty nail to make starter marks at all four of these locations! You do not need to press hard or make deep indentations as these are meant only to prevent the drill bit wandering off centre in the following step. Looking at the next photo you can see that I have drilled out pilot holes for the hole saw drill bits used. If you have the appropriate sized Forstner bits, you can skip pilot holes altogether. You will need two sizes of drill bit - 3/4" (19mm) for the very last hole (located furthest away from the horn) and 1" (25mm) for the three points closest to the horn. Forstner bits are recommended for cleaner cuts. When cutting, place the body on top of a clean flat piece of scrap wood or plywood so that when the drill bit exits the other side it cannot push wood out and splinter the other side. If you're using a hole saw, start your drilling from the top, go about 3/4's of the way through the body, flip it over and continue your cuts through all of the holes from the reverse side. Your pilot holes will help the hole saw meet the first cut perfectly. With a Forstner bit, cut slowly by "pecking" a bit at a time to help remove chips in the cut. Do not apply excessive pressure when reaching the opposite side. Pressing too hard will cause wood to splinter out of the rear face! Now that all the holes are drilled out, we need to make a work support jig for the router and the jigsaw. I used some 2x4 and 1/4" scrap. Across the side of your 2x4, draw the outline of the edge of your guitar: ...now cut out that piece of wood. This is a side support caul which butts up against the side of the body. The top face of this needs to be parallel to the flat face of the body. This extends that surface outwards so the jigsaw and router bases stay level when working inside where the tummy cut drops away. Ideally it needs to be the same thickness as the body otherwise you'll have to shim it up with scrap. Using the jig you can properly support the base of a jigsaw to make the cut along the body at the base of the handle to remove the ridges of the original holes: If you have a tabletop scroll saw, you could also place the blade inside the holes and make this same cut. Now take out your router and a straight cutting bit and set the router's maximum depth of cut to 5/8" (15,9mm) using the depth stop: Using the jig you made as a support, cut a flat plane in several shallow passes from the outside rear of the body to just within the handle area. The final cut should be your 5/8": Now flip the body over and inspect your work so far, I left the jig in place so that you would get a better idea of what it looks like next to the body: Using a flat bladed file or rasp, smooth and round out the inside of the grips on your handle: You are now ready to do the finishing work. Using an 1/8" (3mm) radius roundover router bit (I prefer Dremel tools for this) go ahead and smooth out around the front of the body inside the handle. Soon you won't think twice about doing this to all of your bodys - it really is not as difficult as you might think as long as you have the proper tools and understand each of the steps. Good luck!
  24. ProjectGuitar.com

    10-Step Electric Guitar Neck

    First you need a nice piece of wood, wide enough to fit the widest part of your neck. The thickness can vary but I usually take a piece of 20mm thick. I usually use fretboard woods of 6mm. Step 1: The most important thing to begin with is shaving the surfaces of the piece of wood to get perfectly flat surfaces. Now shave the sides of the wood to get perfect 90° degree edge. This is important if you’re going to use the sides as a guide for a router. Step 2: Draw a line on the sides of the wood under the angle you want for your headstock I usually take 13° like a Gibson. Now cut the wood in two pieces on this line and do this as straight as possible. Step 3: Align the two pieces like the picture below so you can shave the tilted surface of both pieces. If you do it like this you can save time by shaving both pieces at the same time. Shave downward with the grain! Step 4: If both surfaces are perfectly flat, then glue the pieces together like the pictures below. The more you move the little piece, the thicker or thinner your headstock gets. I like my headstocks pretty thick for the stiffness, so I make them 16 to 17mm. Shave the excess wood off the headstock. Step 5: Now you can saw or rasp the shape of your neck out of the big piece. You can only make a neck volute if you used a thick piece of wood! Step 6: I like to use the truss rods with the small ends, unlike the big bullet truss rod like a 70’s Fender. Because of the small end you can keep more wood, and that is important if you want to use a top lock with screws which go through the neck. The more wood you have, the more stable the screws. In case of a top lock, I move the truss rod a bit back from the lock. From there I route a narrower channel for the truss rod adjustment tool or Allen-wrench. So just measure your rod, and route the channel out of the wood with the exact dimensions. Step 7: Place the fretboard wood over the neck wood. I always like to use a longer piece of fret board than the neck, because I’m never sure if it’s going to be a 22 or 24 fret neck. (as shown below) Drill a hole through the fret board into the neck on the exact places where the 1st and 15th fret will come. Not in the middle of course, otherwise you’ll drill into the truss rod . Make sure you have two drill bits of the same diameter as the hole you just drilled. Now glue the fretboard to the neck (don’t forget the truss rod), and keep the fretboard in place by putting the drill bits into the drilled holes. After gluing you can take them out again. I use the inner tube of a bicycle tire to wrap around the neck tightly to press the fretboard to the neck while drying, but you could use wood clamps. Step 8: Now cut out the neck and head stock shape you want. Just use a bandsaw or other shaping saw. If you want you can already drill the holes for the tuners. Step 9: Onto the slots for the frets and fretboard radius. There are lots of fret calculators on the Internet to calculate any fret distance for any neck scale. Calculate the scale you want, and draw lines on the fret board where the frets must come, and use a fret slotting saw to saw the slots. Be very careful and saw straight, or intonation will be a problem! A fret slotting saw automatically saws the right depth, so don’t worry to cut your fretboard in half. Now you can radius the top of the fret board Just choose a radius you like, for instance a fender radius is smaller than a Gibson radius. Take a piece of cardboard or plastic and draw the radius on it. Cut out the radius so you get a shape like the picture below. Now sand the fret board to match the radius on the template you just made. With different templates you can create a compound radius neck. Step 10: Last but not least, the back of the neck. Start rasping the neck on different angles from outside to centre of the neck. Look at the pictures below. For this job you can also create a template to check the radius. After rasping all the angles out of the neck, you have to smooth the edges with a metal scraper. After that use some sanding paper to finish the neck. Now the neck is ready for inlays and frets....
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