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Everything posted by soapbarstrat

  1. Be glad there isn't any one guitarist that stood/stands way above the others, otherwise the instrument would be already dead, or close to it. They all kept the instrument alive. Even the one-hit wonders. Even if you do find just a couple really great, how can you stand to listen to them over and over ? I can't do that. Would be like having to take a short-cut through the Sistine Chapel every morning on the way to the office and getting a little fed up with Michelangelo's work.
  2. Everybody's favorite game : 'I'm drunk on Friday night, but can I still operate a scanner ? ' Here. (PSW's looks better)
  3. Used to be that when you'd buy a 3/16" thick Wilkinson roller nut, it would come with a truss rod cover with 4 rollers just like you positioned them, except on the Wilkinson, the rollers were a little closer to the nut. Can't find a pic online, but there's a pic in the 90's StewMac catalogs.
  4. Just a different look. You do mean the little individual "trenches" under each allen bolt, right ?
  5. Then there's the blog style way, which I can imagine is quite appealing, because with that, you can really take your good old time, and not even feel so obligated to finish anything. LOL. I suppose if I ever get a digital camera again, I might make a blog, but only to try to prove I know what I'm talking about. Not so much to hold anybody's hand and Lord knows I never reveal all of my secrets, so it will be a suck-ass blog.
  6. There's also been cases in the past where some no good thief took someone's forum tutorial or article and was selling copies of it on ebay or something like that. Nobody needs that crap. The better the article, the more likely that happens. Most of the time when I come across a good tip on a forum, I copy it and save it in my email draft box. Quite a mess in there now, , but I have tons of info in there. There's actually a small numbers of guys on the internet that whenever I see they've posted, I read it and often save it, adding to what I saved of theirs before. I don't think of any single forum as a "one stop shop", but I guess there are some who want to create that for some reason. What's really pitiful, is when people take info from one forum (written by someone else) and take it to their "safe haven" forum as a way of making the home base bigger and better. And they think the original author ain't watching the whole thing. I once posted some of my router-planing stuff at MIMF. A guy takes it over to OLF and one of his buddy's writes " let's make a few changes and call it an OLF design". Oh yes, I'm ranting. Have been the whole time I've posted in this thread. Don't think I'm not aware of it.
  7. I wish I was able to watch youtube videos (computer and ISP too slow), 'cause I can tell you as someone who had a lot of Dan Erlewine articles in print for years, until finally getting all his videos, that printed words of a lot of luthier stuff just doesn't do it justice. Videos rule with this kind of stuff. Things I read ended up being quite a bit different from what I thought after seeing the same things on video. I guess a lot of people know that and it makes it seem a little more futile to try to "write" articles. I guess the whole thing with "asking" for tutorials puts some negativity into it, at least for me. Sure, I'd like to be able to watch a video on how to convert an import doweled neck acoustic to a bolt-on (I've actually seen enough written articles and photos to be able to do it, but still , videos rule, even when you already know how to do what they show, they still rule). But I would not feel right posting anywhere, " can someone please make a tutorial or video on this ?". I guess anyone craving more tutorials should just lead by example.
  8. I'd like the opposite. That anyone starting out do some of their own legwork to get them more at the level of those they'd like to ask qestions and share ideas with. Yes, I realize if you spend $50 on some books, you won't be able to get that Chinese floyd rose copy on ebay. How about a tutorial on how to earn money for books and tools by cleaning out gutters for elderly people around your neighborhood . I don't mean you Mexi, I mean these "blank slate" guys who show up and want to know all the tools needed. I don't get that way of thinking. Anytime I wanted to learn something new (like glass cutting), I looked up articles on how it's done, and the freakin' tools involved are mentioned in the articles.
  9. For the basic wood-working stuff, check out a thing called "woodworking forums". You'll probably find more people there willing to help with your drum sander problem, etc. I would like a tutorial on how to take away the blacked-out areas on Our Souls photos. And consider this : Let people who pass along helpful tips to do it in the way they feel most comfortable with. Not everyone feels like writing a mini-book without pay. Some only have the patience to throw in their 2 cents where they see fit. I've probably picked up the most valuable info from people who pass it along in the most informal ways.
  10. Yeah, I did that, but maybe the conductive part went into a really thin layer that dried hard on the bottom. I didn't pour it all out of the can to see if something like that was going on. Can't find that can now. I sort of remember a while back I shook it and it was just dried chunks rattling around in there. Maybe took it when they had that hazardous materials drop-off.
  11. I had less than 1/2 a can of the conductive paint sitting around for several years and found out of wasn't conductive anymore. I also didn't like how you'd paint it on end-grain and had to recoat 'cause it would soak in so much. Down-side to the foil is I've found the adhesive doesn't hold up too well. I think right now, I might have a piece loose in my guitar hitting the pickup switch and killing my neck pickup !. But I like the foil better. It's either there or it ain't. Or in other words, "what you see is what you get" with the foil. I mean ever since I had that paint loose conductivity, the paint is too mysterious for me now. I also like add-ons that can be completely taken back out easily. A little glue next time I have that guitar opened, and I should be good. Not going to even bother checking if copper film is still conductive !
  12. If I ever take up Golf, think I'll grab me one of those.
  13. John Suhr recently posted that he's working on the idea of alternatives to wood for guitars. He even mentioned the word *plastic*. It will be very interesting to me to see what he comes up with. I don't think he would just repeat what others like Steinberger have already done.
  14. Can't make up my mind if this would be an *innovation* or not, but if MOP inlays are supposed to be so cool, then imagine how cool MOP and BUCKET inlays would be !
  15. I use adhesive scraped off old postage stamps and carefully brush it onto the fret-slot walls with a hair I plucked from my eye brows.
  16. Well, you could check out StewMac Trade Secrets volume 15, 6th page. Could save you some guesswork
  17. *If* the slots really are slanted too much or something like that, I suppose you could do the old dremel fret-slot routing deal. I think it was a #111 Dremel bit (not 100% sure on that number) that I used to open them up with. I'd take that new Dremel bit and run it against a fine grit stone to make it a little smaller, but it would still rout those slots out to something like .030" wide. I would think if you held the Dremel down firmly (I'm talking Dremel with a router base), it's routing would square up your fret slots. Then you could make a bunch of fine dust out of fret-board scrap, and mix that with a good epoxy and make a paste to fill the slots, and press and hold the frets down until your glue/paste sets (wax fret-board first, to help pop excess glue off later). Let me clarify that I don't like enlarging the fret-slots like this anymore, but could be just the thing for a salvage mission like this.
  18. Can be slanted slots, and/or I've seen the actual tang on some fret-wire slanted a little. Mike Stevens even talks about that on one of the Erlewine vids and shows how he'll hammer in the fret with a bit of a sideways motion to try to get that tang to straighten while it's being driven into the slot. But, I thought most of the wire being sold these days seldom has that problem. I press my frets and check for any gap under the fret crown and board surface with a .0015" feeler gauge. If that feeler fits under the fret crown, I'm not happy and take action to get rid of the gap. And that's where it really helps when you have a fret-press that can move over to either the treble or bass side and concentrate pressure on a needed area. But if you've got no gap on one side, then I guess you've gotten them seated down as well as the fret-wire or fret-slots will allow. LOL ! I just noticed Shred's signature. Did you come up with that ? I know some people who should get some "help" like that . Hahahaha
  19. Not too long ago, member ' zyonsdream ' had a stewmac spacing ruler up for sale in the classifieds section. I don't know if he ever sold it or not.
  20. I guess you got it. Has a thin knurled tightening nut on the back http://usera.imagecave.com/soapbarstrat/SMbender2071.jpg What if I told you it had a USB jack on the side and I adjusted the radius on a computer ? (haha, you're the last guy who'd buy that)
  21. I have always assumed that the 'offset adjuster' was the clever part of the Randy Stockwell design, as opposed to the 'slot adjuster' which anyone would come up with right away. (obviously, the one this thread is about is the slot adjuster). I have benders with both types of adjusters, and prefer the offset (stewmac/stockwell), over the one with the slot adjuster if I'm trying to dial in a radius close to a pefect match. Pain in the ass with the slot adjuster, 'cause once you loosen that bearing, it's hard to keep it in place, and just move it a smidge. http://usera.imagecave.com/soapbarstrat/SMbender2072.jpg http://usera.imagecave.com/soapbarstrat/SMbender2073.jpg
  22. It's quite obvious to me that the Dave K tut is a rip-off of pages 273 and 274 from Erlewine's book, which was written before they had the stains they currently have. If you're doing a whole neck, the single amber tint is probably good enough. But if you are trying to match an existing amber finish, you'll probably need to experiment with adding a little more brown or red.
  23. I bet that box version was short lived. Much more awkward than such a jig needs to be. If you're using a surrogate body, then all you need is a beam with the rods in it, bolted under the surrogate body. Much more simple and effective than a whole box. A beam can be clamped in a vise. I suppose the box can be C-clamped to a bench top, but screw that hassle. I think the box one is from the time Bryan Galloup was going crazy with chip-board. Seemed he was using chip-board in every possible way. Maybe he was trying to win some chip-board building contest. The box jigs were for his students. His own jig was better, more of a fixed workbench type with spinning top. Back in the early 90's Dan E said that jig of Bryan's was the best neck-jig in the world. I finally saw it on video for the first time last year and I think Dan just said that to be nice. Nothing extra special going on with that jig.
  24. I bet it would be a whole 'nother deal if Ellie Erickson or Bob Hammond would have posted the same thing. Got to be part of the in-crowd if you want smoother sailing.
  25. Yes, from time to time, we need to be reminded : Kiddie playground, first. Place of building/repair discussion, second.
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