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ray

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About ray

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    melbourne australia

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  1. my last one for 2012 a favorite theme of mine with a twist - this one was designed from the ground up to augment my customers collection of teles he wanted something that sounded and looked different to the others but with typically T style layout we came up with "The Prospector" Specs · Model: The Prospector [Astrocaster © body] · Body: top & back bound select timber binding · Tasmanian Blackwood top and rear cap, Vic Ash core, · Finish - Polished and sealed with "No Skin" finish · Neck: Vic Ash with Cooktown ironwood fret board. · 25.5”scale - 9.5" radius, Standard "F" profile · Tuners: Gotoh locking · Pickups: Hand wound Brierley 52 tele bridge, Firebird neck · Bridge, Ferrules, string tree: Callaham Guitars USA · Pick Guard - Copper plate · Electronics: Select caps and pots -Switchraft hardware, high pass filter · Controls: master volume and tone - pickup selector · Weight: 3.4 kg - 8lbs · Serial number 22-271112
  2. personally i reckon the aussie flag looks very cool - but to go way cool the eureka flag is the one
  3. well done mate i love it bahaus meets art deco kind of feel in the design
  4. there you go mate - now you got a decent office guitar
  5. its easy to beat yourself up over this kind of stuff and destroy a guitar that doesn't meet your preset notions as to what it should be put it together string it up and remember all the stuff this one taught you - use it as an office beater or whatever for a few months and see if it holds together - if it does, move it on for a reasonable price - i am sure someone will love it to death for reasons you can't imagine - or even better find a young player who needs and cant afford a decent guitar and give it away - i bet this one will be a long way better than the crap hanging on the wall of the local music shop btw maybe you should forget about the limba and move it on -
  6. most forums have the facility to modify posts after posting - reasons include bad wording, spelling, further info or clarity had a look around but can't seem to find out how to edit my posts or topic thanks
  7. have this guild dreadnought here with a little work required on the frets, action etc it has some playing wear on the top to be repaired - the finish has been worn through in a couple of spots - the areas are roughtly palm sized the guitar looks a little worn - to my eye a well played guitar has its own beauty my gut feeling is intervene as little as possible in order to maintain the beautiful tone of this guitar - it is finished in a matte surface lacquer which could be nitro or shellac - more likely the former i am reticent to put anything on the surface [worn spots] as there is no moisture barrier any one have some advice on a way of treating the worn spots??
  8. this one has been a bit of a departure from my usual builds - it has taken a while - building in a busy repair & service workshop has its challenges i only get to my builds when the pressure is off and these days that time is becoming harder to find i always loved offset bodies, trems and humbuckers so this one has all 3 of those features it is based on the jazzmaster / surfcaster type of shape but a bit smaller - it is quite a small guitar - bright and punchy tone Specs • Body: Top bound and chambered- Queensland maple cap, victorian ash core, Maple binding. • Finish - The wood is polished to a satin gloss and sealed with top grade sealing oil for a very natural feel. • Neck: Victrorian ash with Indian rosewood board.: 25.5”scale - 12"" radius C profile - • Tuners: Gotoh locking mini's • Pickups: Handwound custom made Brierley PAF set - uncovered. • Bridge: Wilkinson floating 2 point trem - stainless steel saddles, nickel steel trem block • Electronics: Select caps and pots -Switchraft hardware • Controls: master volume and tone - pickup selector • Weight: 2.9 kg - 6.4lbs • Serial number 018-100411 pics
  9. i am sure someone round here has used one of these and may have found the same as i have the arm is just too high off the bridge - it slides in and screws onto an allen screw that is installed from under the bridge the arm istelf has been drilled and tapped from inside [reverse of fender's] do i really have to cut this arm short and lose the thread? or is it possible to back the allen screw out allowing the arm to slide in further i tried this but it is in so tight i can't budge it with a normal size key possibly locked in so it cant screw out via action from above
  10. the guitar is lightweight at just under 6 pound fat sound mmmm yeah wound back it is clear and bright wind it on and it is thick and meaty with an edge that slices through a dense mix the pickups really are somerthing else and are hand wound by Mick Brierley in adelaide - they are his vintage modern humbuckers sorry about the lack of tool pix for you workshop addicts i run a workshop blog on my website if you care to take a peek alittle more here thanks for the positive comments - it is much appreciated i often call by here for inspiration - the builders who post here are doing remarkable work and i like the fact that posters sometimes get stuck in with positive criticism on most boards you get "aaahhh its wonderful" posts or no replies
  11. Hi all - i have lurked here for quite some time and never posted i won't post all the pics of bits of wood and machines as there is nothing in the process that hasn't been covered here already a conservative project by the measure of many who post here, this one is my 17th effort - a great little screamer - I have had it out on shows several times and it is particularly awesome combo with my 59 deluxe note the heavy duty [3mm] recessed neck plate - a liitel something I have found adds a lot in tone The guard btw is optional - mainly there to protect it as it is a try out guitar - see last pic for the naked look Vintage style 1 piece maple neck 10" radius medium frets Walnut top [4mm] Mahogany core Maple binding shaller heads gotoh hardtail strat bridge Brierly Vintage modern Pickups
  12. here we call em auger bits pull straight into the timber real quick - slow speed and powerfull drill required great for fence posts or construction work crap for guitars and other light wood work
  13. using a point fence is way better than a normal tablesaw type fence use a table saw type fence an you will fine out all about blade drift when you ruined a couple pieces high dollar wood
  14. i use a makita 1/4 sheet palm sander in benedetto's book he recomends using a 1/4 sheet palm sander just make sure you don't move too quick, be thorough, use fresh paper and use every grade grit you can get beyond 1500 you need to be using cutting compound oh make sure you have a good solid thickness of well cured lacquer also you will still needa do the edges by hand
  15. the most valuable telecasters of all were made of pine - a cheap softwood scorned by instrument makers i made a pine tele and it sounds real good - i will make some more of pine - many like the tone you get off a pine tele also many fine hollowbody guitars have top and bottom plates made of maple ply - think gretsch
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