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Everything posted by Dave_B

  1. Thanks guys. I've been calculating from an "ideal" string height, which for a bonehead like me would probably result in making the angle too shallow.
  2. Hi all. I'm working on an Explorer and I'm at the point of calculating the neck angle. I'm comfortable with that except that I can't seem to find information on the amount of downward adjustability I should allow for. For example, would I want an 1/8" gap between the bottom of the thumbwheel and the body? I'm using a traditional style Gotoh as pictured.
  3. I thought maybe it's fabric with sequins. It looks a little too 'controlled' to be sparkles. Any thoughts?
  4. Are they something like this? http://www.havels.com/diamond---carbide-burs-carbide-burs-straight-fissure.html I can't figure out the sizes from their numbering system and they appear to be up-cut compared to StewMacs down cut bits. As someone who's not done this yet, is down-cut really that much cleaner?
  5. That's an interesting idea. If I can make it with tight enough tolerances, I may give that a go.
  6. Sorry, I've been away. Thanks everyone for the input. I'll just make the pin more adjustable than I originally planned.
  7. I just received my 34/30" fretboard template from LMII a few minutes ago. I also ordered the locating pin to keep things simple. The thing is, they don't fit together. Shouldn't the pin extend all the way into the template? Both the pin and the notches in the template are angled. Because of that, it looks like the template will rack if the locator is sticking out too far, or slide around around if it's not sticking out far enough. Am I just doing it wrong? Dave
  8. That's a good source, thanks John!
  9. There may not be enough of us to justify inventory at a Guitar Center, but you're right, there are quite a few of us shopping online. Honestly, the main reason I'm attempting to build guitars is because the models I want aren't available as lefties.
  10. You might talk to TonePros. Based on my limited conversation with them many (if not all) of their bridges can be reversed.
  11. Your radius jig worked great! I have a nearly identical one in mind (only a 44" radius and some black gas pipe I have on hand) when I get around to building an Iceman.
  12. Here's a site that explains it better than I could. :-) And this thread too.
  13. Prostheta, I tried to "Vote Up" your post but I wasn't allowed. <pros: I'll see what the member limit is. Can't access that function myself however. Sorry.>
  14. My only suggestion for any use of LED's (and this isn't anything new) is to do a burn-in before you glue the fretboard down. LED's do have a failure rate and it's better to run them for a few days to make sure you're ok. There's also fiberoptics, which I think is more common for side markers.
  15. It's also worth Googling for "led flat top" There are flat-top LED's made that will require less sanding (and less risk as Prostheta mentioned).
  16. You have my respect on those miters. I've attempted simpler ones with less success. A cabinet scraper also works good when cleaning them up.
  17. Until Garth corrects it, here's the right link.
  18. I'd be curious to know if there's a high percentage of lefties on PG. I know I'm learning the craft because guitars I want in lefty versions don't exist.
  19. Regarding the planer, for another $30.00 you can pick up the Makita 2012NB from Amazon. Granted, you'll need the $30.00 dust collector attachment and a 3" connector to make it work, but it's a nice machine.
  20. That's a pretty sweet find. Congrats!
  21. For $100 it would be worth learning on, IMO. I know *I* would buy it.
  22. LMI can get whatever size you'd like. Not sure of the price.
  23. Ibanez had a triple coil in the mid-70's. That one?
  24. I guess it should be clarified, are you looking for a paper template, or metal/plastic one to use with a saw?
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