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Phil Mailloux

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About Phil Mailloux

  • Rank
    GOTM Sept '05
  • Birthday 03/17/1971

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  • Location
    Brisbane, Australia
  1. D was a no brainer for me when I decided to get equiped as its also the cheapest option if you have the power saw. I got the bore of the stewmac blade recut to 30mm to fit my sliding mitre saw and made a little indexing table to clamp on it.
  2. Demonx, I checked out your site and saw you're in VIC, if it helps, for tax purposes you need to earn more than 20k a year from your hobby to have to declare and register your business name (sole trader). Mine's been registered for several years and i'm being told I should be better off getting rid of it as I make just under that from it. @Restoration AD I fit exactly 5 of your 6 points, I don't have any children so... Its good to see i'm not the only one in this situation. i love building guitars as a hobby but the business and stress side of it are often way too much, the old romantic idea of being a full time luthier doing your craft which I had when I started building 8 years ago is now completely gone, I much prefer my day job to the daily stress of building and answering countless emails of customers regarding every tiny little aspects of the build. I still love it as a hobby though but rarely get the time to do a bass for me, as a matter of fact, I don't even own one of my instruments expect for the two first ones (unsellable). I need a break for some quality me time with my tools
  3. When you're doing it full time I consider myself a pro builder but I still call it a hobby business because it is, even though I built 8 instruments from scratch per year for three years in a row, I get the full stress of a full time job away from my regular day job, all in my spare time... It'll always stay a hobby business for me, I'd have to pump out over 60 basses per year to make the kind of profit required to replace the day job. No way in hell I'd want to do that many, its way too stressful lol
  4. That looks like the one, thanks for the link. Too bad the pics are missing though.
  5. I think I remember seeing a tutorial or a build thread somewhere on PG a few years back on installing LEDs in a fingerboard. I can't find the damn thing with the search function. Anyone knows where it is by any chance?
  6. I'm surprised anyone has brought up this old thread of mine from the mothballs I've since changed the jig for a new setup using a Sliding Compound Mitre Saw. I had the Stewmac blade re-bored to fit the 30mm shank of my Metabo saw. The new setup is a lot nicer. The circular made a hell of a lot of noise it scared the living crap out of me. I would definitely recommend a table saw if you're looking into that, or a SCMS if you can afford a decent one that has vey little side play. Here's mine slotting a fanned board. The template was made from MDF. The table has a long straight blade encrusted in it. The template pushes into it for each fret position and then you cut each fret slot this way. To slot normal frets just use a table with fence and an indexing pin in it for your normal templates.
  7. Speaking of which, if you already watched the video I posted of the 9 on the "in progress" thread, the guy playing it is just a local bass player who had never played more than a 6 string bass before. He had no problem adjusting to the 9 strings with just a few minutes of playing around with it.
  8. It's been a long time since I posted pics on the GOTM page. Here's my latest. A 9 string bass. It was built to order for a customer; Specs: Maple, Purpleheat and Wenge neck Mac Ebony fingerboard, lined fretless with Ash veneer Figured Myrtle headstock plate and top wood Swamp Ash body, Wenge accent layer Bartolini 3-band preamp 2 humbucking pickups built by me Hipshot Ultralite tuners Individual bridges
  9. Is that the same 100 you got through our group buy two years ago?
  10. yeah, Jon's idea is pretty good. That would do a nice footswitch Hey thanks Mattia and the other ones who defended my idea on the MIMF
  11. Thanks for the nice words guys. I should note that this jig is being touted as enemy number 1 on the MIMF right now. They even added a "CAUTION!" in my original title. So anyone willing to do this. Do make sure it's safe before you use it and make sure you don't cut anything more than 2 - 3 mm deep with it. I do think it wouldn't be safe to cut thick materials with it.
  12. It's an indexing pin. Here is the the stewmac instructions on using the fret scale tempates. It's better explained than my explanations http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/I-4915.html
  13. I took two scrap pieces of maple and cut them to fit the miter slots. I sanded and filed them until I could move them up and down the slots without any problems. After that I glued that long piece of wood to them inside the slots to make sure eveything was flush (I put cling wrap between the maple miter bars and the pb so the glue wouldn't stick the whole thing together) The next part was to fit the circulat saw under the table. I didn't want to cut any holes in the saw since it didn't have any extra holes or screw holes for jigs. So I opted to make wooden clamps. All I did was make 4 holes in the table slightly recessed for 4 bolts and nuts and stuck the saw under it. Clamped between two pieces of wood. I used a large set square to make sure the blade was flush. I just moved the saw from under the table until the blade was flush then tightened the nuts on the wooden clamps. That was it. I clamp the ON button to operate the jig since theres no way of keeping the motor running if you don't hold the button. On this pic I've got a piece of scrap waiting to be slotted. The way the jig works (like all table saw jigs) is to leave a small pin inside the fence that fits perfectly in the holes of the fret slotting template. Tape the template on top of the fingerboard blank with double tape. Hold the piece of wood on the two sides of the template with the fence pin resting inside the first hole on your fretting template and cut the first slot. For the next slot, move the piece to the next hole in the template and do that until all slots are cut. Here's what the scrap piece looks like once I'm done. Disregard the two crappy slots, they were done first without the template. BTW if I had to do it again, I'd use aluminium bars for the fence/miter slots. The maple has a tendency to bind on the sides on humid days
  14. I don't post much here these days. I did learn a whole bunch from this forum when I first started to hang out here a few years ago so here's something that might interest some of you guys. This one's for people who don't own a table saw and think it's a major pain in the ass to slot frets by hand. So what's needed for this jig? - 1 circular saw with 3/8" arbor - 1 stewmac fret slotting saw blade - 1 stewmac fret scale template (or LMI) - scrap wood The table is built with particle board I got for free at the local wood yard. It was cabinet maker leftovers. That piece was cut on a panel saw so all angles were straight/flush. The legs were also scrap I had lying around. I just cut them all the same length. I glued and nailed the legs this way (click thumbnail) Next step was to cut two miter slots on both sides of the particle board. I used a 3/4" bit with with the router fence. I then took the circular saw and slotted a hole in the middle of the particle board for the fretting saw blade and nailed the P board on top of the legs. It was surprisingly pretty strong for how crappy the legs look
  15. These are the X1,X2,x3 mills made in China and available everywhere in the world with a different paint job :lol I've wanted one for building hipshot type bass bridges. Do you think they would be up to the task Setch?
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