joris

second try to post the image.

Don't worry about drilling the holes.

Drill the holes in the body first. Than line-up your neck. Clamp it and

drille the neck holes.

I think it wil work. Put a tape marker on the drill bit, to prevent you of

drilling through the neck.

This is what i'm working on. I'm goint to recess the tunomatic bridge also.

Hope the picture will show.

I've already routed the pickup cavities.

I boucht a big chunck of sippo mahogony, so i have enough

wood left for another three bodies.

I was thinking of using humbuckers on the second one and

put some neck angle in.

This one has a straight neck and a recessed tunomatic bridge.

Just curious how it will sound.

I will, thanks.

Already looking forward to plugging it in, but it might take awhile yet.

I have the body routed. Just making the neck now to be able to line

everything up in the wright way.

I will be using vintage noiseless stratt pickups.

Do you think this is a good choice ?

it is a great looking piece of wood.

Maybe I just have to find the wright technique to work it.

I just thought it might look nice. The body is sippo mahogony, the neck is honduras. I'm looking for a warm blues sound.

I will continue the find with the ebony.

Ok, routing it is.

The leveling bar idea is great too.

I have a big piece of marble laying arround, and it is straight as an arrow.

I might stick the sanding paper to it and use its weight to do the sanding.

Seems like ebony is not the best choice for a fingerboard.

Guess I will be looking for another type of wood the next time.

Thanks all You guys

Thanks.

I think I can get a hold of this type of sanding paper.

I don't know if I can get some preradiussed fingerboards arround here,

but i will sure be looking arround for them.

I'm not trying to think about the radiusing (yet).

the thickness is ok, i'm just trying to get it as straight as an arrow.

Does anyone have some experience in routing this kind of wood?

I started leveling a piece of ebony last weekend, to use as a fingerboard on my new guitar neck.

I used a #60 sanding paper, but it didn't seem to take much wood away.

Should I use another grid or another type of sanding paper, or should I just have some more patience?

I was thinking of, after gluing the ebony on my neck blank (honduras mahogony), shaping the neck with a router bit.

Can this be done with ebony or will it be damaged because it is so hard?

Thanks

I agree. If you only routed the pocket, just make sure all the other routings are centered on that new line.

I should work without any problem.

Sounds great, but I agree, learn the palm mute technique. It takes a while before you get the hang of it, but man it is realy worth the effort.

As for the TAB-story.

I am with you wes.

I've been playing guitar for 30 years now (yeah i'm that old) and i'm still using tabs when they come in helpfull. I mean I'm not Jimmy Hendrickx, but I now how to play.

Sounds great curtis.

If you chain them in a propper way, you should be ok.

As long as all jacks stay clean and you use quality material I see no problem.

The only thing you have to keep in mind is that the sound can change depending on the order in which you chain the different effects.

For example, chaining the distortion before the wah, gives a different sound than chainging the wah before the distortion.

In the first the wah's input signal is a distorted one, in the second the distortion input is a wah wave. It can really effect the sound.

If you use pedals in a chain, it is hard to change this order while playing.

Using a GT-6 you just create sounds and program the order you want the effects to be in. Depending on the sound and the effect you want, you can just change is arround as you are playing.

The GT-6 has 15 distortion/overdrive modeling types and 5 Wah modeling types.

Combine this with all the other features and You will be suprised what sounds you can create.

it's just a question of personal choice. I decided to buy the GT-6 because it has all the effects. I knew what is was going to cost me but also even if I didn't use all these effects at this moment, the day I decided to try them out, it wasn't going to cost me any more money.

Don't want to make it any more difficult for you to decide, but if the price is the same, I would certainly go for the GT-6

It's correct. You need to do a lot of settings with the dial wheel.

I'll check this evening if there is a way arround this.

I don't think the dial wheel will break down that easily.

I have a Boss DR-5 for several years now and the dial wheel is

still working perfect.

As for the distortion, I don't realy know. It sounds ok to me.

You can make a lot of combinations here.

Distortions is one thing, but you can start playing arround with different

pre-amps, speakertypes, distortion type, all giving you a different sound.

You have a lot of preconfigured sounds in the GT6, but once you get to

know the GT6, you just end up making your own sounds.

I realy rocks for me.

I think there's a way arround the dial wheel, but I'll keep you posted on this one.

Jivin, are you sure you have to order it overseas? We have the European Boss center here in Belgium. If you just give me the country you are living in, i'll give those guys a call and have them check if there's no supplier in your neighbourhood.

check out Jeff Healy.

There's some pretty heavy blues stuff there and a lot of solo's.

Some of them are easy to play.

I have a GT6 and yes you can combine all of the effects available.

You can use auto wah, or you can assign your wah to the pedal.

The combinations you can create are incredible.

I've used other multi effects in the past (a lot) but nothing like the GT6.

If you ask me, the GT6 is well worth the money i've spend on it

Hello,

I live in Belgium too and it's not that easy to find some good supplier in woods up here (at least that's my experience).

Try out this adres :

Proarte

Geuzenstraat 19

2000 Antwerpen

Tel : 03/216-99-28

They also have a Website : www.proarte.be

Just apply for a membership and than you can download the catalogue.

They are specialised in lutherie, mainly for classical instruments, but they do

have some nice looking pieces of wood.

They also sell tools for lutherie.

I've been up there last week-end and found what i was looking for (honduras mahogany neck blank, a nice piece of ebony, fret wire etc...)

Hopes this helps you a bit

I've cut my first guitar body last weekend, after I did a lot of practicing on scrap wood. I'm glad I did.

If you are planning on cutting your body using a router, cut it in several runs, taking small peaces of wood on each run. Don't plunch your router bit into the wood because the bit can take out large chunks of wood.

Take your time. If you get tired or you don't feel like it anymore. STOP.

Take a pause and start again afterwards.

I made my own templates first. It takes time but you learn a lot during the process and it will make the real work easier.

Go for it.

I don't know if it's a Danelectro setup (because i've never seen this kind of setup).

I was looking for a way to mount the pups and still be able to adjust them.

I will put up some picks the moment i've finished the brackets.

joris

the pups will be adjustable. I am making some kind of metal bracket to mount the pups in. Instead of running the screws through the body, i'm mounting screws with a flat head in the bracket. I'm soldering the heads so they will stick.

The little tube or spring, will go between the bracket and the pup.

Then I put a small bolt on the back of it. By turning the bolt You can adjust the height of the pup.

The bracket is made to fit the back cavity.

I'm making some faceplates in mahogony to cover up the cavities at the back of the body.

I know i am removing a lot of wood here. I hope the body will still be stable.

Did anyone had some experience with this??

I will be using a recessed tunomatic bridge and the string will be body through.

Keep you posted as the work goes on.

Joris

I'm not using a faceplate on this one. I will be routing the other cavities on the back of the body. The pups will be comming out of the wood in the front.

So I routed then through the body.

Kind of like a strat setup but turned arround. What they rout in the front of the body, i will be routing at the back.

Yes it is.

The piece was big enough to cut the complet body out, so i didn't had to

glue two pieces together

Finally started my first guitar project.

I first started to cut some templates. I'm happy I did, because i never used

a router before. A couple of templates were not useable. After a while I got the hang of it.

This is what I came up with.

So, last weekend i decided to get down to the real job.

I didn't do any sanding yet so it all looks a bit rough.

Any comments are welcome.

Joris.

I measured the pocket of my Fender Strat and came up with this

Pocket depth : 19.1 mm

Pocket length : 73.5 mm

Pocket width : 56 mm

I think it all depends on the kind of neck you are using.

The Les Paul uses a Tun-o-matic bridge. This kind of bridge does not give you a lot of space to get your intonation wright.

By angling the bridge you kinda solve this problem.

Look at the pinned items.

At the high-E string, leave the bridge on your bridge line. From that point anlge the bridge like 2° backwards. That should do the job.

thanks.

I'll check these sites out.