Cherryburst

Ignore the post above - I'll just go with a 1.75" thickness and avoid the problem altogether. I'll probably make two prototypes out of some cheap wood (like pine) and try each bit, and decide which one I prefer before doing the real one.

Oops - it occurred to me that if you use a 3/4" bit on both sides of a 1.5" thick piece of wood, the roller guide on the bit is slightly below the edge of the cutting blade - does this make for a problem when turning the wood over and trying to route the other side, that the roller will be trying to lay against the contour of the other side? http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-C1189-4-22r-Roundover-Shank/dp/B0000DCZ3P . .

I'm working on a new project - it's a solidbody doublecut vaguely similar to a LP jr. I'm thinking of using my router to make the edges VERY rounded kinda like an Alembic or Ibanez Satriani. The body is 1.5" thick. If I use a 3/4" roundover bit (both sides) it'll be round all the way around. If I use a 5/8" roundover bit, there will be a very slight (barely visible) 1/4" flat strip in the middle of the side. (I'll obviously sand after routing to smoothen out any "seams") So should I go with the 3/4" or 5/8" router bit? What do you guys think? . .

I just got the neck and it's very nice. Instead of Tru-oil I'll put on a hard finish as they recommend. 2 questions: 1. What satin finish does anyone here recommend that feels similar to bare wood? (and is easy to apply) 2. It has the cream phenolic dots. If I ever want to dye the rosewood fingerboard (w. Behlen Solarlux) for a darker look, will the phenolic dots absorb any of the dye? Is it neccessary to tape them over? (Thanks again)

I'm waiting on a Warmoth neck that I've ordered, which I intend to finish with Tru-oil. It's unfinished maple with the Indian Rosewood fretboard. I know these things come from the factory dipped in a "conditioner" called Nelsonite. But before the Tru-oil, I'm kicking around the idea of staining the maple part of the neck to make the whole thing look like Rosewood. I would use some kind of Brown stain - either Behlen SolarLux or StewMac's ColorTone - with 91% iso alcohol. Does anyone foresee any problems with the alky+stain penetrating the Nelsonite and/or maple?

Consider a neck with the frets removed (to be refretted later). Dot inlays. And using the Stewmac fret radius sanding blocks, is it better to.... Using an existing 16" radius fretboard, sand it rounder to a 12" radius (w the 12" block) -- or -- Using an existing 12" radius fretboard, sand it flatter to a 16" radius (w the 16" block) ??? (please don't ask why )

How "wet" to make the wood when pre-wetting? Just a light wiping w a wet cloth, or a little bit more sponging? How long to leave it pre-wet (to soak in) before applying water-based stain? And did you use maybe a light wet/sand 1000-or-so grit for "de-whiskering"? Thanks again.

OK thanks, the Minwax water-based color chart is here, and winter white is in the middle: http://www.minwax.com/products/wood_stains...ain.html#Colors Yea, winter white sort of looks like it has some blues/grays in it. To get it custom mixed w all white pigments, would a place like Home Depot do that? And did you find that being water-based it raised any of the grain?

How about if I were to take the white pigment that Stewmac sells, and mix it (very diluted) w denatured alcohol, and apply that to the bare wood? That seems like it might give a translucent/MK white sort of finish that would take Truoil on top of it?

Hey, here's a followup question - same blond basswood/alder wood - suppose I wanted to do a sorta translucent/Mary Kay white type of thing under Tru oil? Of course the Tru oil is going to impart some amber-ish color on top of the white - and that's OK - but what sort of whiteish stain under it might be good? It would obviously have some opaque white substance in it. What might work? Minwax water-based pickling stain? How about the Stewmac opaque white dye they have w water based lacquer - but thinned out? Does Behlen make anything translucent white w/o mineral spirits? Thanks again.

Wow! Thanks for posting that, it looks good. I guess that's the Red Blood stain? http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2007234/BE...Lux-Stains.aspx

Thanks guys, I did some more reading up and mineral spirits (oil) based stuff is out for this If I don't want to DIY mix it myself, it looks like Solar Lux is the best choice? (or any other comparable alcohol based)

Thanks, I think I've got a better wording for my question.... what kind of stain would go best w Tru oil on top of it: Alcohol based (Behlen Solar Lux) Oil based (most Minwax) Water based (Minwax and who else??) (are there any issues of a water based stain raising the grain on alder or basswood?)

Suppose I have an Alder or Basswood body (something fairly "neutral" in color and doesn't really need grain filling) which I want to give either a Walnut-brown or Mahogany Red stain before finshing w Tru oil Is there any specific stain brand (pre-mixed) that anyone would recommend under Tru oil? Would there be any advantage to anything water-based? Thanks.

I was reading through some old threads and I found this one. I've had almost the exact same idea for a 26.5" scale neck. What one could do is buy an unfretted Warmoth neck with the 24 fret extension which adds 1.062" (scroll halfway down) http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/FretboardExtensions.aspx Glue a piece of wood under that extension and drill new mounting screw holes about 1" offset from the originals - then you could mount the neck to the standard holes on the body, and the nut would be 1" further back for 26.5" from the bridge. Then using the Stewmac fret-scale calculator, cut fret slots and install frets for a 26.5" scale. You would still have a 22 fret guitar (or maybe 21 frets - I calculated it a while back) Might that work?