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jay5

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About jay5

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  • Birthday 06/15/1982

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  • Interests
    Ice Hockey, figuring out how to build a quality instrument with my crappy excuse for a workshop.

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  1. An RO sander generally has a soft pad and moves at much lower rpm's. You MIGHT be able to do a little shaping but it would take much longer. An angle grinder is actually a pleasure to carve with.
  2. Check out M_A_T_T's build log HERE. He has some AWESOME info on all the aspects of a violin build, including the finishing.
  3. What kind of CNC? It all depends, but yeah you need a CAD drawing and then translate it into a CAM program (not always G-code).
  4. It seems like he is trying to take the oppurtunity to stock up on blanks for future projects, all of which he hasnt planned out yet. Heres my take; Fender style neck blank- 27"X4"X3/4" Solid body blank- 16"x20"x1 3/4" LP neck w/ scarfed headstock- maybe 30-34"x4"x3/4" LP neck from one piece- 3"x3"x27-30" I cant say for sure about the LP neck blanks as I have never done one but if you can just give the guy dimensions, those should get you what you need.
  5. Man, Im soooo glad you re-did the binding. I didnt want to say anything, but I could see several of the gaps you were talking about in the pics. Great job on the 2nd try!
  6. Cool. Not sure what I think about the headstock but I appreciate the pics all the same. I would be VERY interestedin seeing progress pics of the finish.
  7. Man, this was a tough month. I really liked Stew's ax but in the end I went for Tony's guitar, its so simple and that really did it for me.
  8. make sure you order fret wire with a matching "real thin" tang P.S. A coping saw is probably not a good idea.
  9. The friction/pressure from the wire being wedged between the three wheels is all that is needed to pull the wire through.
  10. [quote]shud i make a new topic of this? [/quote] You should search the forum and do some reading.
  11. Thanks Devon. Setch, what if any consideration would you have to take when planeing the neck angle on a double cut guitar, say a PRS? Do you think the neck angle should carry into the horns? How would you attack a PRS top?
  12. Ok, so lets go this rout for a minute. If someone were to want to take the plunge and get a real spray gun what would a hobbyist (less than maybe 10 guitars a year) realistically need to budget to get quality equipment. Including a compressor (strictly for painting), gun and whatever else what would one expect to need to set aside? Any specific recomendations on brands/models? I have done the math and doing a few guitars RIGHT with rattle cans does add up quickly. So im wondering how much I would have to put up at once to do it right.
  13. cool man, friends are great, especially at the hardware store ~josh
  14. I have one plastic one. My drawing also shows a lock washer there, but thats wrong, just one plastic washer. It keeps the metal crank from scraping the acrylic.
  15. Hmmm, I dont see why there should be play. 5/16" bolt+5/16 hole=should work. You could probably take up the space with plumbers tape. I know mine fit almost perfect. How much play do you have? I think as long as the top wheel isnt moving up and down while you crank it you should be ok. If it did it would give you an inconsistant bend on your piece of wire. I will tell you a few things that I ran into with that top wheel crank assembly. First off, once I bolted the three washers in place I chucked the thing into my drill press and filed it slightly so that the two larger washers were even with eachother and spun true. I also was having trouble getting the cranf to sit straight on the back. I noticed that the base of it where the bolt fits in wasnt square. I filled it down a bit so it would fit flush. Finally, I used a silicone lubricant spray I had lying around to lube up the hole, bolt and washers. These three things made a WORLD of difference. I was able to get everything bolted up nice and tight and turn really smoothly. Now that I think about it, your problem might be the length of the top bolt. I would go and snag a new one the correct length. This way you could eliminate all those plastic washers. That might have somthing to do with it. Those cranks arent heavy per say but they do have some mass to them. The crank might be pulling back a bit and causing things to have a little movement (if that makes any sense). I think if you can get the crank right up to the acrylic with one washer between them, use some lube and get everything tightened and aligned just right you should be able to get rid of that play. Wow, that was a long response to a simple question. I hope you can pull somthing usefull from that mess. Let us know how it works!
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