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TonyB7539

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Everything posted by TonyB7539

  1. Yep just imagine having a 200lb black dog looking you practically IN THE EYE when you open the door to my house... OH and the reality is that he only eats about $50 a week in food... I buy the Blue Buffalo brand large breed dog chow...
  2. definitely a senseless tragedy brought on my a sick, demented individual. From what i read this morning the guy went in there with the intentions of molesting all the girls. They said he brought lubricating jelly with him... It's a good thing the sick bastard off'd himself, so it saves us taxpayers from having to flip the bill for his legal counsil, appeals, and his time he would have served in the prison.
  3. I would love to help, but $400 is about what it costs for a week of dog food for my Great Dane... but man that's a lot of cash that the pound gets for the animals there... here it's anywhere from 5 bucks to 50 bucks with shots, neutering, and microchip implant...almost sounds like they don't want to get rid of them...
  4. I know what you mean... I think I have spent about 20-25k with them...
  5. Oh and the secret to Craftsman tools is to pay the extra for the 2 year warranty and when the 2 years is close to coming up (if the tool hasn't broke before then) just take it back in the case and say it won't hold a charge, or it sounds funny, etc.... and they will just give you a new one, or if it's obsolete, they give you a new current one... It works with my router.... The on/off switch starts giving me a little trouble and I take it back with my warranty papers and they give me a brand one one right off the shelf...
  6. You guys think your batteries are expensive... I have a Snap On 18 volt cordless that i use... of course I can go a week or more on a single charge (and I use it constantly) but with that convience comes a price... http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...amp;dir=catalog And here is the drill... Oh and the price reflects only ONE battery coming with it... If you need two batteries you gotta buy the second one... http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...amp;dir=catalog
  7. Anyone got any idea where to find them?
  8. Spray a little WD40 on the bit before (and depending on size, during) and it will help to keep the bit cool enough so it won't melt. It wasn't the router bit that made it melt, it was the jig saw when I was cutting the template itself.. Ahh.. then try a 10t jigsaw bit on slow speed with WD40... it takes a while though....
  9. very nice... I like the attention to detail on how the grain runs... makes it very classy
  10. I figured you did, but I threw that one up there for those who read that and wondered about it...
  11. Awesome guitar Matt... Black would definitely be nice. I wanna see some quilted maple veneer on the front though done in black... I think it would look sweet... or maybe some cracked mirror plexi also. That would look really sweet... Also a quick tip to minimize tearout with a 45 degree chamfer bit on a table... cut it in steps. That way you have less wood to hog away with each pass, thus minimizing tearout...
  12. Go to a hobby shop and get some 2 part expanding foam, and some plastic sheet. Mix the foam at a 1:1 ratio, pour it into your case, and quickly lay the plastic sheet on top of the foam. Put your guitar on top of the plastic sheet before the foam starts to expand and dry. The foam will expand around the guitar (the plastic sheet protects it so make it larger than your case). When it is dry pull the plastic sheet off and either use an electric carving knife or a razor blade to knock some of the stuff down straight and if need be mix a little more foam to fill in the low spots. After that sand the foam down with a 36 grit pad and clean up the spot where your guitar was, then use landau pad glue (3m stuff) to either glue whatever material you are using on or use suede flocking (takes much longer but looks a lot better IMO) to flock the inside of the case. When you are done you should have a very nice form fitting case.
  13. Spray a little WD40 on the bit before (and depending on size, during) and it will help to keep the bit cool enough so it won't melt.
  14. You could do it with a regular flush trim bit, but I would suggest one of these Notice how the cutters go all the way up to the double bearing.... The 1/4 inch is as big as you need to go. They don't burn, and work great. I have used things as thin as 1/32" with this type of bit without damaging the piece or the template. Of course I wouldn't suggest trying that. I just needed a circle cut, and it was all i had for the size I needed...
  15. I added you to my favorite sellers list so I will be on the lookout
  16. I think you should start thinking about that magic word "internship". Get a kid with a little desire, and in return for showing him a few things, he works for free a few days a week... Hell he may even be able to get college credit out of it. It's a win-win situation. He should be able to cover most of your manual labor stuff like floor sweeping, trash removal, order filling, etc. and you can show him stuff like neck building, inlay, and stuff like that as you are doing it. Also if you wanna throw him some beer money for busting his butt, then all the better. Hell I would almost kill for that kind of opportunity here in Ocala...
  17. I got this beautiful flame maple neck blank from ebay, but unfortunately it's a little short. Since I am going to do a scarf joint on it anyways, I figured I would just add onto at the joint with a different piece of wood. The blank I have is 25x3-1/4x1-1/8. Just looking for a piece of scrap about 6-8 inches long to make the scarf. you can email me at cboyd7539@earthlink.net, or PM me here to let me know a price and shipping charges if you can help me out. Thanks
  18. put a sacrificial board on the end to prevent tear out and remove it when done if possible. I would just hold a scrap board tight up against the board you are working on.
  19. I was just checking out Rusty Cooley's website and came across a link to Conklin guitars... Apparantly he had a 9 string guitar on order... it's a strange beast indeed, and I was wondering if anyone had any info on what the purpose of fretting the instrument in the way that they did? Does it keep the strings in tune better? anyways here is a link hopefully, if not just look for the 9 string... it's the black one. It's making me drool, so I know there are gonna be a few here that will as well... http://www.conklinguitars.com/cherished.html
  20. I used to really dig the kahler lock nut... no tools needed, just flip and go.
  21. I had an Alembic back in the 80's. I traded a Steinberger and a '74 Jazz Bass for it. Sweet instruments.
  22. It looks good so far, but to me it just feels impersonal if you aren't physically getting in there and making the thing by router and template... of course I am all for CNC templates, but that's another thread... Maybe I just feel like you aren't really building it if you let a computer do all your work. I am a hands on kind of guy.
  23. so... what are you trying to add in? you can start with a 1/2' piece of acrylic and cut it to your template, then you can mix in whatever you want to mix into your clear acrylic casting resin. Run some green painters tape (2 inch variety) and tape around the sides making a template on top of the clear acrylic. Pour the casting resin into the form and let it cure. When it is cured, you can rout it like normal, since essentially it will be acrylic. A tip would be to make a mark with black marker on the outside of the tape where you want the acrylic to come up to so you don't have a ton of sanding to do. You can pick up casting resin at US Composites. Just look for the Simlar 41 casting resin. It's about 28 bucks a gallon.
  24. I don't know why you would want to do it like that since you can purchase Lucite and just cut it with a router like you would a piece of wood... as a matter of fact it's probably easier on your router bits. You just have to make sure you precut your body within an 1/8" of it's final size.... when you are done completely routing it, you will need to sand everything you routed to at least 600 grit, then you will need to polish it... this means you will either need a bench polisher (resembles a bench grinder) or, if you have a compressor, you can get a straight die grinder and put a polishing wheel on the end of it and do it by hand... You don't want to run it full bore (like 20000 rpm), you will want to run it more like 5000 rpm. You will need polishing rouge also. They have 2 different types (white which is fine, and blue for very fine) start with the white and finish with the blue.... it will be as clear as glass when you are finished... it will also be a whole lot cheaper than making a silicone mold, and filling it with liquid acrylic... (That's about 200 bucks just for the materials to make the mold and fill it.)
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