Necrovore

Atomik, here is the link that I pulled that info off form my post. Moser Custom Shop Shredder :: View topic - Building a neck-thru guitar I want to give Neal his due respect as he has been making NTG's forever and his method is the one that I use. He has helped many of the aspiring guitar builders with detailed personal at times instruction on his method of neck through construction. I hope that this extended article with all the pictures is helpful. In my opinion, incomplete as it is(not a finished thread, its a work in progress) is the best tutorial in getting started in building a neck through guitar bar none.

Where did you pick up your pattern bit?

I am building a few neck throughs now. Lay the neck blank down on the bench so the grain is running parallel to the bench. Now you draw a straight line on the side of the wood that is facing up. This will be the line designating the top of the body. Now we need to draw the neck angle You need to decide what the scale length of the finger board is or you won’t know where to start the neck angle from. So, you need to get your finger board and lay it down on the block of wood and mark where the nut starts and where the 12th fret hits and where the 16th fret hits. Then take a yard stick and measure from the end of the board starting at the nut to the 12th fret. Then you take that same measurement and run it from the 12th fret to where the bridge will be located. That is the scale length and where that measurement hits at the body, is where the E saddle of the bridge should hit. After you have all these lines marked you can start laying out the proper angles. Neck drop for T.O.M bridge. From 16th to front of nut. 5/8" drop. Neck drop for Badass bridge. From 16th to front of nut. 11/16" drop. Neck drop for Recessed Floyd Rose bridge. From 16th to front of nut. 1/2" drop. Head drop for all of them. From the back of nut out 7". 1 3/8" drop. For the frets past the 16th fret I use a shim that I get from the drop off of cutting the neck angle from 16th fret forward. Just cut it a bit longer than what youll need to complete the fretboard so you can just cut that off once you have the fretboard glued down. Front of nut is the side of the nut closest to the fretboard, back of nut is the headstock side of the nut. EDIT:The measurements are from Neal Moser's site, as is the method on how to get the angles.

Hey Thanks Ill have a look.

I cannot afford AutoCAD. Had great access to it at school, but its mighty pricey for home use.

Anyone use Turbo CAD here? I am using a free version of 4.1 I am trying to draw up a set of guitar plans but cannot seem to figure out how to draw straight lines by inputting the length of the line like you can in AutoCAD. Am I completely missing something here, or is this an option not availible in T-CAD? Thanks for any help in advance.

When you say "Clean off", how clean is the break? If the glue bond failed Im sure that you can just clean off the old glue and re-glue it back using Tite-Bond or Gorilla Glue. If not just re-glue it back making sure that the broken pieces of wood in the break all line up.

I have an old BC Rich Mockingbird with one of the Rich bridges similar to this one. One of the saddles is completely fried(all threads are rusted out) seeing that this bridge is 22 years old and cannot get a replacement. I am wanting to retrofit the bridge with a Kahler Flyer. Anyone have any information on how to figure out how to place this on the guitar? I am talking fitting it to scale length. The instructions that came in the Kahler box are geared to a replacement using either the Kahler model that directly replaces the Gibson style Tune-o-matic bridge or a strat type replacement. I have tried posting on the BC Rich forum, but have not gotten a legitimate answer from anyone there. Figured you guys could help on this. One more thing. Don't flame this post because of my tremolo choice for this guitar. I picked up the Kahler for $25 for the full trem incl. nut, plus second 85% complete Kahler bridge and three ziplock bags of various parts. I am not spending more money on this guitar as its my beater.

Anyone know wher they are sold now? Do they still make the Flyer to Pro conversion kits?

Some personal favorites. Not necessarily only riffing but overall songwriting for each song. Possessed - Seven Churches(specifically the song but the whole album is killer) Bathory - A Fine Day To Die (no better Blackmetal epic riffing. Blood Fire Death has such a HUGE guitar sound. even though recorded off a 25 watt Yamaha practice amp.) Slayer - Hardening of the Arteries Judas Priest - Hellion/Electric Eye Ozzy Osbourne - Diary of a Madman (esp. the breakin from the aucoustic to electric. This change is so powerful and chilling) Motley Crue - Knock 'Em Dead Kid (Probably one of the heaviests riffs written from the Hollywood Hair metal bands) Rolling Stones - Paint It Black Marduk - Wolves Necrovore - Treacherous Abominations Necrovore - King For Fools

One thing you can do is split the audio into separate tracks. Voice over the vocal tracks. Did you record from the camera in stereo? One method you can try is removing the vocal channel(center) by splitting the main audio into stereo and taking one side and putting it into 180 degree out of phase with the other. This will usually remove any audio in the center. You can then re record the audio into a separate track. This will retain the background noise if you recorded into stereo. If you did not record the audio separate from the camera but used the camera's mic, here is a little trick you can do. Rip the audio into wav file ( you are using soundforge right?). Copy that file so you have 2 tracks of the same audio. Name one (whatever)a.wav and the other (whatever)b.wav Now play around with the noise gate and/or dynamics tools within SF. You can set one up so any of the vocals are lowered but lets the low noise(background) through(sort of like a reverse noise gate), while doing the opposite with the other. Then blend the two tracks. One little hint is to use a multi-tracking audio recording suite. the best for what you are doing is Nuendo as you can do all the audio engineering and once done while still in the suite attach it to your video using standard video compression or even SMPTE standards.

Hello all. I am planning on building my first neck-through. Several questions I have regard neck angle. I understand that if I use a standard bridge I will need to have the neck angled. If I decide on using a Floyd type tremolo I dont. What about a kahler tremolo. I have several old guitars that have Kahlers and was thinking about using one of these tremolos. Still undecided though. Concerning neck angle, I was at a local shop last night looking at several Jacksons and BC Rich guitars. Both brands I was looking at the US made models they had. On all of the tremolo models the store had in stock (3 floyd types one kahler pro), all had slight neck angles. My biggest question is what is the proper way to set neck angle on a neck through guitar? Do I leave the neck blank thick at the body wing area and angle the body wings then plane down the areas on the neck blank that are exposed beyond the back and face of the body wings? This seems easiest to me. I looked at the thread on the ongoing neck through construction guitar but the images did not really show this very well. Thanks for any information regarding this topic.