mmm-pousto

well, I havn't had much time to check back .... thankx for the support and lettin' me know I was on the right track ... but I didn't know to go as high as 1200 grit paper.

I bought a new Godin Detour recently. It's a great guitar for the price (I paid $322 tax and gigbag included), but there is one small problem with it. The nut is too tall. I'm happy with the depth of the slots, but even on the low E the top of the string sits lower than the top of the nut. Mainly it really only causes noticable binding on the B and hi E since it doesn't have a trem. This is how I was planning on fixing it .... any suggestions or corrections are welcome. 1- use a mech. pencil or a ultra fine tip sharpie and mark where the tops of the strings sit in the nut. loosen the strings and mask the neck and headstock. 2- use 80 or 100 grit sandpaper and sand down to the top of the line I made in step 1. It just occured to me that I could use dremel for this step, but I have never used one ... should I just stick with paper?? 3- switch to 150 or 180 grit and sand down to the bottom of the line. Put the strings back in the slots, tune and make sure that I'm still at good spot. 4- switch to 300 grit and sand down the rest of the way. It's my understanding that the very tops of the strings should be higher then the top of the nut. Hows that sound to everyone??

oh .... I tried the search but just typed 1/4 sawn ..... only got one result my mistake thanks

I'm planing on getting a warmoth neck for the quitar I want to build. I want to get a maple neck (one piece) and I have a few questions about some of the options. What is 1/4 sawn? Does it just affect the appearance or does it also affect the tone (I would guess it wouldn't)? I like the look of the maple on my strat, which I'm guessing is flatsawn, but I have no idea what 1/4 sawn maple would look like. Also they say that the finish would be left on the frets for final fret leveling. From what I've read about warmoth necks, they generally ship in great condition and play great with minor set up adjustments required. Do they just mean I'll have to break out the steel wool and clean the finish off of the frets?? Can anybody out there tell me about their expierence with one piece maple necks? thanx, as always Matt

sorry...that's my mistake ..... I was bidding on an item on ebay that was listed as hipshot hardtail "style" bridge ....initially I thought it meant that it was a "hardtail style" bridge from hipshot ... it turns out it's just a knock off. After looking a bit closer at the pictures I don't think that it's a "dual load" bridge anyways. I just think whoever put the auction up may have been kinda clueless. I guess I'll just have to see what I get when it gets here. Only paid 19.50 us for it (postage included) and it says it's supposed to be brass....the guy had a good ebay rating. Oh well, live, bid, and learn I guess. Hopefully it's a good enough bridge to be usefull

the hipshot hardtail bridge is a dual loader (meaning it can be loaded from rear & through tre body) .... so even if you screw up the holes again it can still be top loaded.....additionally the bridge looks like a stock strat ht, but like it would get better sustain (more mass and bridge saddles surrounded by the bridge plate similar to the G&L HT bridge - I can't remember what they call it right now - oh yeah, saddle lock!) Thanks to everyone for all the drill press talk...convinced me I need to get one

I forgot --one more thing.....I don't use the trem at all.....suggestion's on mod'ing the trem to bypass the whole problem all together would be greatly appreciated as well.... THANKS Matt

about 7 years ago I was given a Westone "Dynasty" in pieces (I didn't find out exactally what it was until recently). It's a mid-'80's guitar...kind of looks like a flying v with a bit of B.C. rich thrown in.....it's really cool lookin', and I don't like most "metal" guitars. I wanted to put a picture on here but my HD was recently wiped clean.....anyways, around christmas time I dropped an emg in it, and decided to give the bridge a nice thorough cleaning. It's a non-Floyd fulcrum style that originally had a locking nut (the original neck is missing...tis the way I got it). The strings latch into a forked 'J' shaped metal piece, the top of the 'J' is what contacts the fine tuners, and the bottom of the 'J' is the forked part that holds the string. each string has one (obviously), and they all pivot on a thin metal bar that nestles between the bridge plate and trem block. The one on the low E string was different than all of the other ones, presumably because it was replaced at one point. Anyways I was cleaning the bridge, the 'b' string one looked kind of bent....I grabbed my needle-nose and *SNAP* ....I checked all of the common parts distributors (stew-mac, all-parts, etc) with no luck....last week I tried to mold one out of some stuff called JB weld, but predictably the bond didn't hold.....I know I could always convert it to a hardtail, but money is tight right now (unless anybody wants to buy a kidney off of me or somethin' ) anyhelp finding a replacement part or suggestions on fashioning a new one would be great and I would thank you a million times.

I'd have to say I'm pretty much like you....except perhaps far more inexperienced for most of the past 7 years I have been using pedalboard multi-effects processors, mainly because I can't afford to buy 30 or so pedals and then have the foot-eye coordination to turn 3 off and 4 on in a very quick and efficient manner ..... I definately aggree that from an audio quality stand point, such multi-effect pedals don't sound as good as the individual pedals......I'm just blabbering now.....sorry......yup, I'm always tweaking and rarely completley happy but it's definately getting better, as far as my guitars themselves go, the more I know about repairing them the more they need to be repaired ..... if it's not getting a better set-up, it's installing and cuttin a brass nut.....but I love doing it I need to force myself to play them more and work on them less I'm gonna go play right now.....hope you find what you're looking for

for starters I usually play strat's or strat copies....Keep that in mind.....I also find the very close volume knob highly annoying-this is what I do .....romove both tone knobs all together, you will get a hotter signal from your pick ups (as if the tone knob was turned to 10, plus a little bit more) then I plug the hole with hex screw covers ( usually $1 usd ea. at the hardware store ) this won't work for you if you use your tone knobs a lot ....... I aggree with building one yourself however ......this way you get what you want and it's usually cheaper (theoretically anyways, I want to do one but havn't yet) warmoth.com has tons of body shapes and necks and etc. etc. ...... they can route the body and drill holes for most common setups......btw if anyone outhere reading this has had any experience bad good or neutral with warmoth or making a kit guitar from them (or anywhere else) tell me what you think of them...... sorry if this is too scatterbrained for y'all

Pousto "Straight From A Dream" www.muchopousto.com it's kind of like Sublime meets the Police with some rock and a bit of punk mixed in. explaining it in words does it no justice, check out the site and get free downloads

99% of the time I play in standard ..... I always liked the tuning on soundgarden's "Mind Riot" ( all strings tuned to 'E' ) .... while were on the subject of tuning, if anyone out there knows which tuning(s) S.Malkmus uses on a lot of those pavement songs, that would be just super I know some of them are D-A-D-A-B-G , but that one won't work on "stop breathin'" (or maybe I just havn't tried hard enough) this bbs rocks my face off

I love hardtail bridges.....recently I found the "hipsot hardtail" at stew-mac (p/n 3550) it looks like it's the real deal.....I'm not sure how to best explain this, but the six saddles are surrounded by the turned up pridge plate, which in my mind would improve sustain .....

thanks all....much to think about

I found a hump around the 13th fret of my washburn bass.....I haven't done any fretwork to speak of, so this is all uncharted territory for me. My first thought is that I need to remove 5 or 6 of the frets to level out the fingerboard. After I'm done with that can I turn around and just put the old frets back in, or will they be too misshapen to put back in the guitar. I don't use the bass much (primarily a guitar player) and I don't have much money for tools and all of the stuff you need to do most refrets.....couldn't find any answers....hoping that someone out there could help me..... Thanks