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avengers63

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avengers63 last won the day on August 31 2018

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About avengers63

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    GOTM April 2011
  • Birthday 12/18/1969

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    Belleville, Illinois

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  1. avengers63

    Bent side ES style

    I got the bridge recessed a few days ago. I did a VERY basic sanding on the body today. Now I get to assemble and try out the HVLP spray setup I bought a few weeks before I lost my job. I'm not doing anything but laying out a few coats of clear. No buffing or polishing on the R&D mule.
  2. avengers63

    Bent side ES style

    Nearly 5 months later..... I've been home and out of work since January 4. Long story short: I was pulling my bus into the garage at 1:30AM when I ran over a pedestrian. The police determined I was 100% NOT at fault (he was in a 55mph zone - no pedestrians allowed). The company didn't care and fired me anyway. The union tried to fight it and lost. I've was out on emoptional disability until March 31, seeing a trauma councillor on the companies dime. I'm now on unemployment waiting for a class A CDL truck driving class to open up. The weather cleared up, and cabin fever is making me insane. Today it was time to re-open the doors on this learning project. Many of the things I did today... I haven't done them in about 4 years. You forget all the little nuances of a fairly simple tasks when you haven't touched it in 4 years. The first thing I wanted to do is make a wedge elevating the neck pocket template +/- 2.5 degrees for a neck angle. Making the wedge wasn't a problem. The angle was right in the neighborhood of where you want it. The problem was how in the hell am I gonna secure the template down. This is a worthwhile jig, but it's gonna get shelved for now. More thought needs to be put into it. I'll have to use a fender-style flat-top bridge this time. Let's see if I can make the neck pocket without fucking it up too bad... Considering the 4 year gap, it isn't too bad. The point of the forstner bit went a little too deep, but it's an overall acceptable pocket. Can I do better with the pup route? Yes I can. Just like riding a bike. And just like old times, I ripped off a little piece of the top from the center block. More mental notes for the future about glueing the top on. Just going with a single neck pup, V, & T. Keeping it simple. I'm still conna recess the tailpiece since I made the neck pocket a little too deep. Forgot to compensate for that. When I drilled the hole for the jack, I ran into the bracing, kicking the hole wopperjawed. The hole is there - too late now - but now I know for the future. So now we have a top jack and a little sound hole on the side. If I'm able to work a little each day, I might be able to have this done this month.
  3. avengers63

    Project - RAD Unfinished Business

    RAD is making pickups again.... And he's making blades.... must not harass too hard, even though I've been begging for another set for several years....
  4. avengers63

    Warlock resurrection

    And we're done. I glued on the fretboard last night. Complete FUBAR. It not only shifted a bit, but one side has about a 1/16" gap along the length where it didn't glue down properly. So this one gets the truss rod and inlays recovered. The rest goes into the bin.
  5. avengers63

    Warlock resurrection

    I don't mind re-cutting the slots. My Japanese saws are the same kerf,so it's a 1-minute job. Radiused and sanded up to 220. Next up are the side dots, maybe buffing it up to 1000 grit, and oiling it. I know there's some voodoo about oiling before glueing, but I don't buy it. The pores aren't sealed, so they should glue just fine when some oil gets on the bottom.
  6. avengers63

    Warlock resurrection

    I absolutely HATE sanding the radius into the fretboard.
  7. avengers63

    Warlock resurrection

    Nope. ruler, 0.5 drafting pencil, very bright light, reading glasses, and an x-acto knife For me, the real trick isn't getting the lines perfect. That's just being methodical and precise. The trick is scribing the lines with the x-acto deep enough to have a well-defined edge. In the past, I HAVE made templates for the inlays that deserved it. But for these simple boxes, a little patience and a touch of German anal-retentiveness is all that's needed.
  8. avengers63

    Warlock resurrection

    And now I wait till tomorrow when I can radius it, put in the side dots, and glue it onto the neck.
  9. avengers63

    Warlock resurrection

    The parts came in last week. The plastic pearl blocks will look awesome in the walnut fretboard. Starying the tedious layout process. Reminding myself to put the side dots in before glueing the fretboard on. I've done that before...
  10. avengers63

    Skinny builds

    The weight of the tuners isn't what I was going for. The headstock weighs more than the tuners ever will. So for balance considerations, that would be the biggest weight savings.
  11. avengers63

    Project - RAD Unfinished Business

    some sort of moisture leeching underneath the perspex....
  12. avengers63

    Skinny builds

    Going headless is the other obvious solution to neck weight. The drawback for the hobbiest like us is that headless hardware is often more expensive than traditional.
  13. avengers63

    Warlock resurrection

    The weight reduction is just an extremely positive side effect. The theory behind it started as voodoo, but ended up being 100% legitimate. As we all know: 1) the strings vibrate the wood, 2) the vibrating wood alters the way the strings vibrate. 3) Woods vibrate differently, altering the string vibration differently, producing what we call the tone of the wood. 4) Thinner wood vibrates more freely. When combining these 4 truths, I theorized that as thinner body wood vibrated more, these longer & stronger vibrations would transfer more or different tone to the strings. Several years ago, I made the prototype Superthin style. The theory turned out to be 100% true. I encourage you to give it a shot sometime to hear it for yourself. Plus the extreme lightweight guitar feels like just nothing around your neck or in your lap.
  14. avengers63

    Warlock resurrection

    I went with 1 1/4" because that's about the thinnest you can go and still have enough for a full pickup & control cavity route and standard components. Even then, you can't comfortably recess the c/c cover. With flat enough pickups, you might be able to go down to 1", but your c/c space would be precious, and you might have to start looking for specialty knobs & mini-switches.
  15. avengers63

    Warlock resurrection

    So I got some more primer on it. It dried as a crackle finish. It's a pretty impressive crackle, too! Great lines. I'm gonna have to sand it all back to bare wood and start from scratch. Not terribly surprising considering where I picked up from.
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