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Entry for September 2019's Guitar Of The Month is now open!


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avengers63 last won the day on August 16

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About avengers63

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    GOTM April 2011
  • Birthday 12/18/1969

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    Belleville, Illinois

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  1. For me, $200-300 for a top is a small fortune. It's all relative.
  2. I got the neck 99% shaped today. The heel area still needs some real "by hand" love. Normally, I'd have all of the shaping done before attempting any finishing. BUT.... I start a new job next week. This screws with everything because I'll be on the road M-F, only home on the weekends. Clearly, this significantly cuts into my available time. I'll be using my "away time" to let the finish cure, then finesse the heel when I'm here. I'll be finishing the heel shaping before I buff out the top, and putting a towel down so I don't gouge it on the table. I'm also using poly on the top instead of lacquer. No, poly doesn't need that long to cure. but why wouldn't I let it sit when I have the opportunity. It's water-based, so I need to get some linseed oil into the top first, so it still has that "warm oil glow" we all love so much. The oil is still wet in these pics, but y'all get the idea.
  3. Interesting wood grain on that body. Is it getting a basic clear coat, or are you planning on coloring it somehow?
  4. Perhaps. But this is what I have on hand, and I'm a cheapskate.
  5. The binding route on the headstock was about 1/16" too deep. shit Well, nothing to be done about it now. On to damage control. I took some binding and split it with my beloved scrollsaw. This will give me much "shorter" pieces to mess with. All I could do was glue the pieces above the other and TRY and make up the height. Then I bathed the join with acetone and binding "sawdust", hoping to melt the shavings into a slurry and jam it into the line. Success was spotty. An error this glaring eliminates it from future GOTM contention. cest la vie Some judicious sawing, chiseling, and filing gave me a pretty decent shelf for the plastic nut. To be 100% clear, I don't actually use a nut per se. I use a zero-fret. This is a fret placed where the traditional nut would be. This makes any un-fretted strings ring with the exact same tone as the when fretted, making the nut material a moot point. The plastic nut then becomes a string guide rather than a true nut. [voodoo] So much is made of the nut material influencing tone. Once the string is fretted, the nut is out of the equation. Therefore a zero-fret makes a consistent tone regardless, eliminating the nut material question entirely.[/voodoo] Next up is gluing on the fretboard. Here's the mandatory "march of the hammers" shot.
  6. I got the control cavity and pickups routed out this morning. The c/c was was mostly freehand, but I have a template for the pups. That's all for outside today, but I brought everything inside to glue on the binding while watching TV.
  7. The best available solution was take a cutoff and glue it onto the flat spot. The other option was to steam off the veneer, add some wood, and re-veneer... and that wasn't gonna happen. It hasn't been sanded yet, but the pics below show the results. You won't see anything from 3 feet away, and it will be hard to see up close unless you're looking for it. So I got a late start today. The heat set in, and the end of my garage where the router table is was solidly in pure sunlight. Me sweating like squeezing out a sponge means I wasn't getting much done today. All I was able to do before pooping out was rout the body & headstock for the binding, put a roundover on the back, and hog out most of the pickup and control cavities.
  8. Meh. I know you're just joking, but I've always documented damn near everything in my builds. Several folks have shown their appreciation for my "warts and all" approach. I felt it important to show the "younger" builders that yes, you WILL dork up something, so how you fix it is just as important.
  9. I was in food service for 20 years. That, along with a curved spine, left my feet & back on the screwed-up side. The jack was always going to be in a curved oval jack plate.
  10. I hate getting old. I'm only 49, but I can't stand for more than a few hours now without being done for the day. Any, on to the pickguard. I traced the image, spray glued it onto some hardboard, finessed it into shape, routed, beveled, drilled, and the fucking thing is smaller than the original. I THOUGHT I had the image at actual size when I traced it. What's done is done. Even if I had the extra inch of length on the control chamber, there's no way in God's green Earth I'd fit all that crap in there. This is why plans deed to be kept fluid. It just went from an active pre-amp 3-band EQ to a generic 3-way/V/T. Life goes on. Part of the fun stuff - 99% of the routing to the template is done. Tomorrow I'll likely fer the pickup cavities and control chamber done up. Yes, the bottom is flat. IDK how it happened. I measured it and test fit it about 30 times before gluing it together. I have a cutoff with it in the clamps.
  11. Not really getting to work yet, just eager to see how the veneering turned out. The squeeze-out mess was a hellofalot better than I expected. All I needed was a little cleanup around the fretboard, which I already protected with bue tape. Nothing got under it, but it required some encouragement to get off. The only glue that leaked out onto the top will either be in the pickup route or under the pickguard, so no problem there either.
  12. I don't remember where I got them, but I use thin plastic rods for the side dots. I think they're 2mm. Super inexpensive. The hole isn't even 1.4" deep. A tiny drop of super glue, jam the rod into the hole, trim it flush.
  13. And I wholeheartedly approve of derailing the thread into a conversation.
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