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Myka Guitars

Blues Tribute Group
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About Myka Guitars

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  • Location
    The Great Northwest
  • Interests
    thought, electricity

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  1. I had nearly forgotten about that. That song was stuck in my head with your voice (and face) for a long, long time. Haha!~ This Dragonfly turned out great, Chris. The snakewood looks wicked. And I like the taper of the tailpiece. This was a really good time back in the old Georgetown shop. We had a little fun. Ah the memories,... Can't wait for some clips. ~David
  2. I built two guitars with veneer over carved top. I used a vacuum bag setup and it worked well. Make sure you do a couple of dry runs. The middle will want to separate because of the carve but you can compensate by making gaps at the tail and neck areas of teh book match. If you are doing one piece it might split on you, but if you dry run it first you will know. I used regular wood glue rolled on pretty thin and had no problems. Here is one guitar where you can see the veneer from the edge: Veneered carve top. And the finished guitar. Have fun, these are great to build! ~David
  3. J366, I wouldn't be discouraged to try something like a larger inlay. You can take small steps to achieve your goal but that certainly does not mean that you have to alter that goal. I am going to go against the grain and say that you do not buy premade inlays for practice, or hire this out, but to actually try and do it yourself and learn the skills necessary. Inlaying looks very complex when you see work like Cliff's and the PRS guitar (and it is complex and accurate work) but each individual piece was still made in the same way. I have found that it is not so much about experience as it is about patience. It does take time to do it right. You may wish to practice on block inlays but things like sharp tools and accurate fine lined drawings will help you out more than doing a block inlay first. You can try a simple geometric shape inlay to get the ideas down I suppose but that will only barely prepare you for a dragon inlay. Try inlaying a 4 or 5 piece dragon into a block of wood first. Or better yet, draw out your idea and start by making the inlay pieces one at a time. If you don't get one right simply toss it and try again until you do get it right. With the right attitude and perseverance you will be able to do this. A case in point is my friend Brian. Here is his first really elaborate inlay: Here is a larger picture (750kb). Not as elaborate as the PRS inlay but for a first larger piece this is pretty detailed. His past experience was the inlaying of a couple of his logos. He said that this inlay probably took him more than 80 hours with the single piece of walnut being the most difficult piece to fit (of course). The flames on the fingerboard were the last pieces inlaid and consequently the easiest part to do. I agree with everyone that attempting an over the top inlay is a daunting first project and could lead to frustration. But I would not abandon the idea completely. Scale it back a bit and do a simpler dragon design. Don't go from PRS dragon to block inlay, go from PRS dragon to your dragon. I say go for it. ~David EDIT: Cliff, I just checked out your site again. Man, your work just keeps getting better and better!
  4. I know, I posted in the wrong section. Here it is again in the right section.. My goal is to offer something like a custom class so a unique shape is not a problem. Part of building is template work and I plan to go over that in the classes. ~David
  5. X1TX, are you close to Seattle? I was organizing my ideas for a couple of guitar courses just last week. Here is an ad I just put out: Seattle Craigslist ad ~David EDIT: This guitar was built by my good friend Eric so you can see the possibilities.
  6. Or you can choose not to fill the grain and just Tru-Oil it. I have an Andrew Olson custom that is done this way on the entire guitar and I love it. I don't mind seeing the grain and actually prefer it most times. Check it out. ~David
  7. Nice work Chris! You can now breathe easy. I don't understand why people want rejected guitars instead of sending them on. And taking them off from Chris' hands is not doing him a favor. These are not what he wants to represent his work so why should we disagree? Chris is the artist here and he chose their final expression. So in my opinion this is not a waste at all. In fact not burning them is a huge waste of time. You get drawn into thinking about them far too often only to come to the same conclusions over and over again. It does feel good to finally make a decision about projects like this, doesn't it? I think it is some great performance art and really sends them off in style! Now you can get on with bigger and better projects. ~David
  8. Well being a newcomer to the thread (and sustainer world) I think I might just have to make one of each type of driver (blade and pole pieces) and have something to bring back to the group. I was thinking of using something like the low flat screws like the ones you find on the TV Jones pickups in the hopes of spreading out the magnetic field a bit. ~David
  9. OK, I have all the parts and supplies ready for my first sustainer driver and poweramp (rememeber this one will have a buffered piezo signal). Thanks to everyone for this thread becuase I don't really have any questions about how to proceed (this in an of itself is a wonderful thing!). What I do have is an idea that I wanted to get some feedback on. Has anyone built a driver with adjustable pole pieces? Could this help deal with the higher strings? ~David
  10. Thanks for the replies. They are very encouraging! The piezo system is from Graphtech and has a separate buffered output for the piezo signal (that is separate from the hexaphonic output). I planned to use the Ruby circuit. Will this work for what I need? The Graphtech preamp runs off phantom power from the synth device when plugged into it (a Roland VG-88 in this case). I plan to tap into this to drive the circuit. I am pretty sure the preamp outputs 9-volts for auxillary power (if not I may have questions about how to step it down). Cool! This was my next question and you answered everything I had thought to ask. Thanks! I will definitely keep all of you posted on this as I make progress. I plan to start experimenting in 1-2 weeks. ~David
  11. I have a question and I am pretty sure has already been addressed before. I am building a guitar that will have a hexaphonic tune-o-matic bridge as the only pickup system on the guitar. Will the summed piezo signal work as an input for the driver on a sustainer? I realize I will need a driver coil and power amp but will this function correctly with a piezo input? The idea is to have a simple single coil driver in the neck and that's it for 'pickups'. The guitar's sole function is a synth driver. Thanks to all for this amazing thread! ~David
  12. Wow, this is an amzing show this month! As I looked through all the builds I saw some great looking guitars and some excellent design ideas. What was consistent among them was the attention to detail and finish work. I also wanted to see something a bit more 'out there' in terms of design and execution. I gave my vote to thegarahanman. His design is really cool and the construction of it very unique. There is nothing quite like it that I have seen and the construction of it shows that he is willing to take some risks. I like that approach. This is where the new ideas for guitar building are going to come from so I have to support that. Nice work to all! ~David
  13. I like the look of this design revision. I love the color too but I am a sucker for blue guitars. How is Zirocote to work with? Excellent work so far by the way. ~David
  14. If this is done correctly there is not an open channel. The channel should be routed to the exact size of the carbon that youare installing. I would recommend gluing it in no matter how tight the fit, and epoxy is great for this because it will fill in any gaps.
  15. If you use a sealer before the dye then the dye cannot penetrate into the wood and you have to use colored finish coats. For this method try this thread. If you use a grain filler (match it your finish (waterbase finish and sealer, etc)) you can dye the filler as well and then seal and clear coat the wood as usual. For this method go here.
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