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YetzerHarah

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Everything posted by YetzerHarah

  1. YetzerHarah
    lots of lumber places online (although he's right that local is usually cheaper, if not cheaper & better) I've had good experiences w/: gilmerwood.com cookwoods.com
  2. YetzerHarah
    Hey man, love the build, thanx for sharing.
  3. YetzerHarah
    I've been using the WD rods w/o problem, I haven't tried too many others for comparison though. (They're better than the Warmoth rod I tried on a friend's recommendation, & waaaaay better than those damn StewMac hotrods) From their website: width of rod at ends = .235 inches depth of rod at ends = .36 inches
  4. YetzerHarah
    fretted->milled->beveled->leveled->crowned->polished I guess I have to make up my mind on the electronics now so I can do the routing. I wanted to a p90 sized humbucker in the bridge & p90s in the middle and neck controlled by a Free-Way Switch, acting as if the 2 p90s are one humbucker, but reading the reviews I'm more than a little paranoid about using that switch. I guess I could do the same idea and just use a rotary switch. Or I could just do a p90 sized humbucker in the bridge w/ a push pull coil split on the volume & then just a p90 in the neck. I don't know. Suggestions?
  5. YetzerHarah
    I wouldn't say it's the most important part of building a guitar... ....but I wouldn't say that it's meaningless either. put some ferrofliuid on your pickup & you'll see the differences in magnetic field strength (saran wrap it first if it's not a sealed pickup or you'll never get all of it off)
  6. YetzerHarah
    Hitone did something similar recently: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/topic/46750-12-string-gretsch-tele/?hl=hitone Strings through the body shouldn't be an issue as long as you don't hollow out too much, or brace appropriately Pickups are up to you, the only concern is ideally all strings should be over the polls
  7. YetzerHarah
    I'm all for pointy too. If you can't find an epoxy that you like, I'd just stick w/ titebond, I've used it many times & never had any problems with it that weren't my own damn fault.
  8. YetzerHarah
    I still need to get me a set of those Ramelson sets like you recommended Scott, probably next time I visit my parents back in the states.
  9. YetzerHarah
    I can't say that no one's ever done a two way truss rod in a skunk stripe, but I can tell you that traditionally they are one way just a metal bar threaded on end w/ an anchor on the other (only exerting force towards the fretboard), & I think it'd be a bad idea to do a 2 way rod in that design (both because the pressure on the skunk stripe & because 2 way rods usually sit in strait, rather than curved slots) I missed where you talked about rotating it sideways, I see no reason why it wouldn't work, but I don't really see a benefit either. Honestly, like I said earlier, I think the best thing to do is the make a fretted plank long enough to put a bridge on one end & tuners on the other (ideally out of something hard and cheap like unfigured hard maple), string it up & see (if it doesn't implode &) how much you like it.
  10. YetzerHarah
    I'm not saying don't try it out if you want to, but you do understand the inherent problem with that design: The strength of a glue joint is directly proportional to it's surface area. Here, I drew you some cheesy free-body-diagrams to illustrate the problem
  11. YetzerHarah
    If you really want to do it, I'd make a plank w/ frets, string it up, & see how it goes
  12. YetzerHarah
    Are you manually rounding the edges on that resin, or is that curve just from the surface tension?
  13. YetzerHarah
    Just ran out of fretwire FML
  14. YetzerHarah
    Pics are just examples, not necessarily the model/setup I'd want Les Godfrey: Wes Lambe: Beardsell: Vik: & of course a pair of Korina '58s
  15. YetzerHarah
    https://anonfiles.com/file/0178bb77dc79aad500c8a09c2d480f54 yay for google
  16. YetzerHarah
    The others are fairly close, but the 9th fret is about 4mm off center, & #1 is slightly rotated counter-clockwise. I know I should just get over it (or better yet get a CNC!). ScottR what do you think of breaking up the extra flower to use the petals for 19-21-24?
  17. YetzerHarah
    On the 9th fret I tried a different way of marking it, & well I should have known well enough to try it on scrap first. Back to just drawing around the inlay with a sharp pencil. Anyway, I feel like throwing the whole thing in the fire, but I doubt that'll happen...
  18. YetzerHarah
    I think if you don't quench it, you're going to have a hard time keeping a polish with strings rubbing against it, but who knows I've never tried it
  19. YetzerHarah
    If you fully anneal it to work on it (& bend it to match the radius of the fretboard) then quench it before putting it back in, I think you can do it w/o a problem.
  20. YetzerHarah
    Not a replacement for that book, but some further reading if you want it: If you're looking for something other than standard scale, one of these'll help w/ fret & bridge position: http://www.ekips.org/tools/guitar/fretfind2d/ http://www.stewmac.com/FretCalculator Neal Moser has a great post on neck angle (I'm not sure if you have to log into his forum to see that): http://mcs.acidpit.org/showthread.php?31-Building-a-neck-thru-guitar
  21. YetzerHarah
    Haven't had much time lately. about 1/2 the inlays in, rough leveled & wetted for the pic: I really need more practice inlaying
  22. YetzerHarah
    Agreed, I'd see if one of these has enough play to get away with it: If not I'd get a wider bridge like one of these or an old Gibson harmonica & hope it covers most of the filled hole:
  23. YetzerHarah
    That's a very cool setup you've got going there
  24. YetzerHarah
    Well that binding certainly is there. Customer's choice?
  25. YetzerHarah
    Power tools is generous, there're days that I feel like I shouldn't be trusted w/ plastic kindergarten scissors
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