Hi ,
Here are some directions I copied of another sight, wish I could remember to give the person credit. I layed out a fret board on paper using this method and it looked right. Just to add, I marked the scales on my paper board for my plans fallowing each string path , a 36"B+34" G in my case for a 5 string bass; then connected the the marks. 8th fret was purpendicular. I haven't built this yet but am gathering materials now. ymmv. Tim
Well, here's now I did it -
Start with a flat fretboard blank that is more than 3/4 as long as the longest scale length you want to use. In my case, I started with a blank roughly 29" long, considering that 3/4 of my longest scale length (37") is 27.75". You must taper this board BEFORE cutting the frets or else your scale lengths will not be correct. Be sure to mark the centerline of the fretboard before starting to mark your fret locations.
Use a fret template program (I used WFRET as found in the archive) to print a template of each scale, in this case 34" and 37".
Start by marking the longer of the scale lengths (37") on the bass side of the fingerboard and marking it out. Decide which fret you want to be the perpendicular one (in my case, it was the 6th, but 7th or maybe even 8th might work) and align your treble side template on the fingerboard blank so that the desired fret marks are perpendicular to the centerline. Mark the fret lorations for the treble side.
Using a straightedge, draw lines between the marks that correspond with each other (0 with 0, 1 with 1, etc.). This will give you your fanned pattern.
Carefully cut the slots with a fret saw, using either a straighedge guide or a variable miter gauge of some sort. Be sure that they align just perfectly, or else they will never intonate properly (this is always the case when cutting your own fret slots...).
Raduis the fretboard however you choose... I prefer a compound raduis setup ranging from 9" - 20". First I raduis the entire board to 20", then using graduated sanding blocks I begin working in the compound raduis starting around the 16th fret and working my way back to the nut.
After getting al the raduis sanded in, re-cut the fret slots as needed (most will still be visible, but may not be deep enough... some may have faded almost completely; if necessary, use your templates to re-mark the fret locations).