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Maiden69

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Maiden69 last won the day on December 11 2011

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About Maiden69

  • Birthday 06/18/1969

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    Militante

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    San Antonio

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  1. Well, that didnt work as planned. After ohm'ing out the switch, its a regular Fender style switch. I ended up using a diagram from Seymour Duncan, which was wrong... it had me grounding both volume and tone (you can tell its been a long time for me because I should had known better), I ended up having 1. Neck pup 2. Both 3. Bridge pup 4. Both north coils 5. Neck north coil I must admit that 4 and 5 sounded way better than I expected. It sounded like single coils with balls, instead of the slinky single coil sound you get from a regular strat.
  2. yeap... thats the same way I read it. Now lets hope the INS1 and 2 are the same as the QMS1 and 2... and not inverted as other Ibanez guitars
  3. Found this diagram in an Ibanez forum. Using this I think it will work...
  4. yeap... that's what's holding me up on it... The problem I have is that there is no model number on the 5 way switch that I have. It's not a Stew Mac, but the one that came with the Ibanez. I guess I am going to have to solder it this way and see what it is actually doing. I may start by checking the resistance between poles and positions to see where do they actually go and make a simplified schematic on each of the 5 positions. I like a challenge, but this is almost a freebie to a friend from church... so I am not getting paid to do it. Will post up with my results so that it may help the next person attempting to do the same down the road. Thanks,
  5. Hi guys, long time I don't post here as I haven't been actively building guitars for a while. I have an Ibanez J model that came with a H-S-H set up. The owner wants to remove the SC and use the 5 way... which is normally pretty easy. Well, the pick ups on this guitar are 3 wire pups. I found this diagram online, the only one I have been able to find by the way with two 3 wire humbuckers and a 5 way switch. My issue is that looking at the schematic, it doesn't make sense to me... can someone with more experience in this look at it and see if they think it's correct? I was just going to wire it, but after looking at my old stock, I only have long shaft 500k pots, so I just placed an order for 2 short shaft pots from Stew Mac.
  6. Thanks Wes... yeah, definitely the 2300, that the one I used on my last build. What's the name of the shop in Austin? My wife and me go to Ikea about once a month if possible, so I definitely can drop by on the way there. I was also told to go look at Alamo Hardwoods here in San Antonio, but with the latest chaos in my life ( 2 surgeries and one more due in April) I placed it on hold. I am finally cleared by the doc, so I am about to start working on things that I put on hold about 2 months ago. Thanks for the replies!
  7. Checked the link and following. This is minda what Brian had at the begining. I liked the different sections. Wood/inlays/hardware/finishing... etc. Does that page exists archived that we could pu it out and make it available even with broken links? It would at least help for reference to the new page.
  8. Scott... where do you get Kahler? I bought mine from Wammi but nkw they only sell parts and Kahler USA prices are out of the question right now. I payed 199 for my USA 2300 hibrid and Kahler got them for 349 right now. For that price I may just go the Floyd route. I do live the fixed Kahler....
  9. Thanks Scott, completely forgot about Guilmer...
  10. Guys, finally getting back into building. I chased cars for a little bit, and still got another GTO that I won't be getting to work on (for sale soon you Texas folks) and I am so out of the loop that almost all my old bookmarks with parts sites are dead. One of my to-go place was Guitarspartsdepot... but that is no longer active. Where do you guys go for parts? Original Floyds, wood, hardware, P'ups? Any one local to the San Antonio area that knows about a good but not outrageously expensive hardwoods place? There is one selling mesquite for furniture, and I contemplated using some for a neck or neck insert, from all the info in their store, it is harder than maple, but softer than ebony. Got a little over 2 years to retire, so I think I can start investing into more tools and equipment to start this as a side job once I get a regular 9-5 work. Thanks for any info, I will be reading through the threads here...
  11. Both guitars turned out very nice but I'm partial to blue... so I think that one looks better.
  12. That turned out great! Body carved is sharp and flows great with the body shape!
  13. At what temperature you are painting? I have painted with 2K paints at close to 65 degrees outside with no booth at all without any problems. Those paints are not meant solely to be baked. 75% or more of the car painters don't have an oven. Here, not a guitar but I painted this lowers at about 65 degrees. The day before this happened, and they still cured fine. With 2K the most important thing is time. You need to follow it, if you let the paint dry, it will not stick unless you scuff it. Temperature is also important, but that is why they sell different temperature reducers, so you can adjust how fast or slow it will flash depending on the temperature you will be spraying. I don't have a booth, and never had an issue with my guitar, motorcycle or car paint at all.
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