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verhoevenc

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verhoevenc last won the day on June 7

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About verhoevenc

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  • Birthday 05/16/1986

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  1. verhoevenc

    Neck Modeling.

    What in the world happened to all these posts? Chris
  2. I wish I could remember who bought this so I could see what ever came of it! Chris
  3. verhoevenc

    who has used unconventional inlays?

    I have done this on several actual bodies now and it works like a charm! But yes, with my CNC. I've done something SIMILAR without CNC though. I took my template and a 1/2" rabbit bit and made a smaller template. Then used a 1/4" bit following this smaller template to route a channel 1/4"" in from the edge to inlay some cool purfling into. That said, this only worked because I was fairly far inside the body... I'd be skeptical of my skill being able to do this with templates and come out with the body cut exactly on the binding perfectly. Problem is in close spaces the human eye is capable of pickup up on discrepancies of .010"... so unless you get the .060" binding EXACTING, the eye will notice. Chris
  4. verhoevenc

    Finishing headstock

    I have sprayed nitro over tru-oil just fine. I can't say for "other oils." But generally, the longer it's been on there, the better. Chris
  5. This archtop is very dear to me as it is not only for a dear friend of mine but it was also a super-fun platform to innovate on since I had control over most of the specs. Essentially I had to use black and white ebony, amboyna burl, and it had to be an acoustic archtop in my Model1 shape. Other than that the rest was up to me! So I played with some fun things like: A bolt-on version of my compound-bend all-access neck joint Radial purfling using burl Carbon fiber (neck, neck block buttresses, and laminated in pickguard) 3D printed structural elements (can't really see them though) Charlie Christian pickup Completely hollowed ebony bridge Oval hole and fan bracing Back-strapped diamond volute Here she is relaxing in her new home: The specs are: Curly maple neck, back & sides. Note: the back is domed like a flat-top not carved. Carved sitka spruce top with ebony binding and tons of crazy multi-layer purfling. Black & white ebony fretboard and tailpiece (veneered in normal ebony expect the "wings"). Hollow ebony bridge and CF-laminate ebony floating pickguard. Buffalo bone nut and saddle. 25" scale board with 12" radius and 1 3/4" nut. Finish is odie's oil neck with satin nitro headplate. Body is all done in an tru-oil with some additional wizardry to keep it from soaking deep into the top and potentially hurting the acoustic resonance. One thing I want to point out that doesn't matter for the final product, but I'm still proud of: I decided to fully hand gramil all the binding and purfling channels on this box. What a process... won't do it again... but glad I did it once so I can truly appreciate binding jigs and bearing bits! If you'd like to learn a (lot) more about this project, it's history, why the specs are what they are then feel free to waste 30 minutes here: Best, Chris
  6. So this is gunna sound a bit weird... but every time I go into this one Home Depot near me (not often as it's not my closest, just close) I end up walking out with a board of pine that I'll use on a guitar some day. It's not weird though because without fail this particular store seems to regularly get some absolutely killer pine?! The last two times I've gone in there I've gotten quilted pine, and then yesterday, birdseye pine!? Nuts! Here's the quilt from awhile back: And the birdseye version from yesterday! All this for the usual ~$3/bdft price? Count me in hahahaha. Chris
  7. I also think you need more contrasting color... the blue is overpowering right now. Think about black for you pickguard (still bound in white) and headstock (I'd bind that to match too) IMO. Too much of a good thing is still too much; and I think blue is a good thing. Chris
  8. DeltraLectro but please don't make that fretboard blue hahaha. Chris
  9. verhoevenc

    Double dye stabilizing wood

    I wouldn't say that. Most guys using this are making MUCH smaller pieces... they buy toaster ovens that you attach a temp regulator to, etc. When you go big you start getting into much weirder territory. Sort of like the difference between baking a cupcake vs. a turkey. Turkey's gunna have a lot more considerations to get it right. You'll need bigger "tools" for the turkey too. Also, most of the info out there is on the smaller stuff... but this has all been learn by doing (failing) for the guitar-sized pieces. There are other companies with similar products, but the general rules apply to all of them. Chris
  10. verhoevenc

    Double dye stabilizing wood

    Sadly you can't use the heat-wood-then-use-resin trick on these stabilizing resins. They have one property that kind of ruins this: if they get over 80 degrees and do not continue up past 185 for 10 minutes to cure... then they'll never cure! I've seen pics of guys that didn't know a heat wave was coming in and left their stuff running out in the garage only to come back to a permanently gel-form of resin because it broke the 80 degree threshold but never went through the full cure cycle at >185. With that in mind I have to actually be very careful not to put even warm wood into the resin. This is why I have the giant ziplock bags to let the wood cool in (and not pick up moisture) after the drying or curing stages, before they go back into resin. As for the info on how heat works in a thicker piece I'll have to read up more about this! Best, Chris
  11. verhoevenc

    resin/wood composite body

    Acrylic bodies have been used for decades. BC Rich did it, Dan Armstrong did it, etc. The latter seeems to be good enough for Dave Grohl to use and many collectors to flock to... so it's probably fine lol. There's a company around lately that's been taking burl slabs and filling out the extra area needed with resin. They're pretty cool but for that life of my I can't remember their name. Either way, yes, resin and/or resin/wood hybrids are totally fine for use in guitars. I'd personally just caution about how MUCH of the guitar is made from that for one simple reason: resin will be heavier than most woods used for guitar bodies. My $0.02, Chris
  12. verhoevenc

    Double dye stabilizing wood

    I tried the clamp sandwich and although it was MUCH better, it still wasn't perfect. I got one little spot on a blank that still had 'dye weep.' Granted, it was a part I was able to cut out on this over-sized blank so YAY! No losses there. However, this was enough to make me experiment further. Someone had said that, if I'm doing things right, the only time I should be afraid of warp is when I'm in the initial dry phases. If the blanks, after being dried, stay away from moisture then I should be fine in later stages without clamps/weights. I'm defining "away from moisture" as ONLY in the ziplock bags long enough for them to cool down, and at all other times either fully submerged in resin, or in the oven again. With that in mind my process now looks like the below. I'm 3 blanks in with this process without a single hint of failure: 1- Use the sandwich-with-clamps method ONLY in the initial drying phase. Dry for minimum 48 hours, usually 60. Generally around 220-250 degrees 2- Cool in airtight ziplock bags only as long a necessary 3- Do standard soak or short-vac cycle 4- Cure standing upright on edge in oven for 8 hours at recommended temp (I use a C-clamp near a corner to ensure it stays standing up) 5- Do standard full vacuum cycle 6- Again cure 8 hours standing on edge It seems that for the cure cycles there's still some negative consequences in using the sandwich. Maybe there wouldn't be in a better oven (convection maybe?), but for me that seemed to be part of the issue. I'm thinking that without adequate airflow through the sandwich it was hindering the blanks' ability to get fully up to temp... even with 8 hour cures. That or maybe the sandwich didn't allow for even distribution of heat and so some areas didn't stay at-temp long enough to perfect the cure (which I believe is 185 degrees for at least 10 minutes where there temp CANNOT fall back below 185). So far this seems to be the best process. If that remains true this may be the final post. If not... I'll be back hahaha. Chris
  13. verhoevenc

    Guitar Templates

    Number 1 piece of advice: not all DXF/PDF plans found online can be trusted. Whenever I'm using them I always find myself having to mod/fix them. This isn't a big deal if you're not worried about aftermarket parts being compatible... but if you're doing templates for Fender-style guitars this becomes a big deal. Before selling I'd buy parts to make sure that they actually work with whatever you're cutting out. My $0.02, Chris
  14. verhoevenc

    Mr_Riddlers build thread

    I bought the Black 2.0 and painted in my Chevy symbols on my truck with it. It's black alright... but it's not AS black as the videos, etc. make it out to be. Also, I talked to Stuart and if it's used in a high-rub situation (like a guitar) you have to clear-coat it for protective purposes... and there are REALLY matte clears available... but any of them are going to alter the Black 2.0 even more so that it's less flat. FYI, Chris
  15. verhoevenc

    Aluminum honeycomb to replace middle pickup

    What do you mean by "replace" middle pickup? As in, take it out and put in aluminum honeycomb... done? If so it'll do nothing... besides look like aluminum honeycomb. It's not a pickup, magnetic, etc. Chris
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