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verhoevenc

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verhoevenc last won the day on December 30 2016

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About verhoevenc

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  • Birthday 05/16/1986

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  1. Double dye stabilizing wood

    Not to mention that he buys his burls, and likely resins, in massive bulk so his material costs are likely much lower as well. Chris
  2. Double dye stabilizing wood

    It is intensive... I still think $600 is way off board though. But that's just me... Chris
  3. Ah, yes, I was on a business page. May be different for personal ones. Actually have a buddy at facebook and contacted him about it at the time and they highly discourage this "share to win" activity. Chris
  4. Note from someone who's done a contest on Facebook before: you will be able to see that people shared it. But you won't be able to see WHO shared it unless you're friends with them. Facebook are jerks like that. So most of your entrants you won't even know their name to put them in a hat. Instagram is a much better medium for stuff like this. Chris
  5. Double dye stabilizing wood

    Images fixed. Thanks a lot photobucket for giving me that extra work... Chris
  6. Double dye stabilizing wood

    I was in a rush this morning and agree that that picture isn't the best. I'll take a better one later. It's more vibrant than it looks here. I do love how the spalted rear area really drank up the black in a drastic way yet stopped just as drastically where the spalt ended. Should make for some cool aesthetic. Chris
  7. Double dye stabilizing wood

    One more for good measure. This is the sister set that I pulled out this morning. Black and blue soaks followed by a pull in yellow. This is a much thinner billet so the soaked colors will likely be more drastic inside than the one above. Chris
  8. Double dye stabilizing wood

    So that one I talk about above that I resawed after the initial soaks... to see how far color would penetrate... looks like this. The left side is what the "outside" looks like, the right side is what the inside bookmatched face looks like. Chris
  9. Double dye stabilizing wood

    There's not really much... once they are resawn down thinner. Obviously anything 3/4" thick (where my billets start to get a 1/4" bookmatch in the end) will not want to move. And I'm capable of resawing a curved board all day. So that's not a problem. The real issue comes with putting a warped board in the cactus juice and the vacuum chamber. The more warped the board, the deeper the juice bath must be, and the deeper the tray it sits in. Since the chamber is round... that means the less wide the board can be. Its all very connected. So I'm still of the opinion that dealing with keeping the billet flat through to the end, as much as possible, is worth it. Chris
  10. Double dye stabilizing wood

    Ugh... I should go replace the missing pics... thanks for the policy change Photobucket! i wanted to give another update though for now. I believe I've solved the 'large pieces warp in the oven' issue! Had some good luck following these procedures: 1- go from you ambient MC% to ~4% very slowly. For this I'm using a food dehydrator/jerky maker box. 2- still go 24hrs+ in the oven to get to 0% MC 3- ANY TIME YOU PUT ANY TOP IN THE OVEN, weight and sticker it! I've also found that a top/bottom buffer so one side of the wood isn't always facing one heating element or the other. Is good. My sandwich goes: Plywood, stickers, foil (to catch any bleed out only), stickers (covered in foil so they don't stick to the wood), plywood, rocks for weight. Chris
  11. I'll play. Here's the latest finished project. This is actually the "twin" to my July entry. I say that because minus wood and finish differences, different neck pickup, and added binding... it's essentially the same guitar. They were made in tandem on the CNC with only minor tweaks to the GCode. This one was always the guinea pig for the cuts on the customer's version as these were my first guitars where the majority of routing was done on the CNC. Neck: 25.5" scale, 1-11/16" nut figured Katalox board on an African Mahogany bolt-on neck. Body: Thinline swamp ash with a holly burl (locally harvested) top with black pearloid binding. Electronics: Tele style 4-way (series/parallel) with a McNelly A2 Signature bridge and Benson JM style neck. Let's start with a video of someone playing her at a recent event: Best, Chris
  12. What are the best woods to practice on? Anything... the darker they are the more they'll hide mistakes though. But for practice... who cares... seeing your mistakes loud and clear may be a good thing. What is a good/cheap inlay material to practice with? Again, anything you can cut with a saw. Plastics from around the house. Shell "seconds" can be had pretty cheap and will obviously be more realistic for your ultimate goals. What are the minimum tools I need? Rotary tool (like a dremel) with a nice router base. Router bits (I'd suggest 1/32", 1/16" and 1/8"). Jeweler's saw. Mini file set (Home Depot's are fine). Is a router/dremel essential or can you do inlay with just chisels? I wouldn't suggest it... it's possible but I'm betting it'll turn you off it. If you can use just chisels how do you get the bottom flat? Good luck lol What are the best ways to get the inlay material flush with the surface of the wood? Sand it once you've inlaid it... Is there a resource that can tell me what woods are toxic and should only be worked on with a breathing mask and ventilation? To my knowledge there are no "toxic" woods... at least that luthiers commonly work. There are woods that are known allergens for the general population (like cocobolo). It's always a good idea to wear a mask, period. Wood dust in general isn't great for your lungs, especially if you plan on doing this for a long time. Best, Chris
  13. The Helix build (video series)

    My rule of thumb? Make the joint super tight when dry and right off the router. Sanding will then take away the material needed to allow for glue, fiber swell, etc. Chris Note: This is for set neck joints. For bolt ons I (now that I have a CNC) tell the CNC to give me a .010" offset for a total difference of .020" in width right off the table.
  14. Cleaner Edges on Body?

    Ok, last post on boring tests and numbers for the day; promise. These are the sizes of the chips being produced by the .002 chipload. They eyeball at around .002" thick so that seems logical. This is the shape I did. Grain runs left to right. End grain side 1 is incredibly smooth. End grain size two has some very minor fuzziness... but still nothing compared to what I've been dealing with before (was previously running this bit at 1.33IPS @ 12k... so a chipload of .00665). Here's the side grain. Again nice. Other problem I still seem to have is chunks of wood being lost in sections of extremely short grain (think the corners of headstocks...). This I'll still have to run tests to alleviate. All in all I think I have found my desired chipload for this one bit (hahahaha). I'm also fairly confident that if I were to run these cuts with a .015" offset and then come back and do a full-depth onion-skin pass to remove that last bit that I would be left with stellar results. I wish I'd have thought to test that while everything was still on the table... Chris
  15. Cleaner Edges on Body?

    No kidding a starting point! OK, so I ran some tests... and by that I mean a lot of tests. Basically draw a ton of lines and cut them at every possible feed/speed combo that I could (within reason for jumps in IPS and RPM). All of this was done with an Onsrud 65-000 (single flute upcut O-flute) endmill. According to Onsrud's chipload chart (https://www.onsrud.com/files/pdf/2012 LMT Onsrud Production Cutting Tools Hard Wood.pdf) this bit has a recommended chipload in hardwood of .004-.006 With this in mind I set up the following 3" lines, .2" deep, single pass: 9000RPM 1IPS= .0067 <- best of the 9000RPM tests 2IPS= .013 3IPS= .02 4IPS (my machine's max cut speed)= .026 12000RPM 1IPS= .005 <- best of the 12000RPM tests 2IPS= .01 3IPS= .015 4IPS= .02 15000RPM 1IPS= .004 <- best of the 15000RPM test 2IPS= .008 3IPS= .012 4IPS-.016 18000RPM 1IPS= .003 <- best of all the tests so far 2IPS= .006 3IPS= .01 4IPS= .013 Looking at the channels and judging them for cleanliness I found that .003 chipload in the 18000RPM bracket was the cleanest. My definition of "clean" wasn't just cut marks being left by the bit, but more importantly a lack of tearout as all the tests purposefully cut across end grain, which is the only real place I'm having cleanliness issues when cutting out guitars. It was surprising to see that the lowest value was the winner; especially since it was out of Onsrud's recommended range. Note, only two other values were within their range though; .004 and .005 With this new knowledge I went back and calculated chiploads of .001-.004 in .001 increments, all at 12000RPM (as this is what I've been told is ideal for wood). The results of these tests are: .001 as .2IPS .002 as .4IPS <- winner .003 as .6IPS .004 as .8IPS Although .001 was very nice and clean, I could see that the "chips" coming off this cut were very small. Seeing as .002 was just as clean, had nicer chips, and is twice as fast, this was the winner. .003 and .004 both started to show signs of tearout of the end grain. In conclusion the winning chipload for this bit is not only outside of the manufacturer's recommended range, but also a mere 50% of the recommended range's lower bound?! Can this be right? I'm going to do some more extensive tests with this chipload value... but I find it hard to believe that the manufacturer recommendations are so off? Chris PS: The wood used was quartersawn sapele scraps.
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