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Entry for August 2019's Guitar Of The Month is now open!


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verhoevenc last won the day on June 15

verhoevenc had the most liked content!

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About verhoevenc

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    GOTM Multiple Winner
  • Birthday 05/16/1986

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  1. I just bought a "portable" greenhouse off Amazon to spray in. Yeah it was $80, but it's awesome. Goes together easy, take it apart for the future. Super handy as a ghetto spray booth to avoid particles in the wind (a must if ever doing a solid color IMO). Chris
  2. I can do this. However, with out CAD files to match your EXACT inlays... I wouldn't guarantee the work at all. The reason is, inlays, especially in maple, you are working to tolerances of a few thousandths of an inch. So yes, this isn't a complicated shape, but without knowing the exact dimensions of your particular pyramid inlays... who knows if the routes will actually fit them, be too loose, etc. You'll need a matching DXF or DWG (or other CAD file) to match your inlays to have this done right. Where did you get the inlays? They may be able to help with more info. Chris
  3. That bridge angle looks HUGE. Does it intonate? Chris
  4. What kind of neck/blank? Is it already thicknessed for a bolt-on? Or is it a big block that you could plane down a bit and still have what you need left? Chris
  5. Didn't read through, so apologies if any of this has already been said but: Wood glues are always your go to for wood-on-wood joints... but there are many types of wood glues! Wood glues will be more forgiving to mistakes. If you find a gap in your work after the glue has hardened, you can reheat, press in, re-clamp, and fix the issue. This will not be the case with CA. Given wood binding is sometimes more tricky than plastic at getting the shape JUST RIGHT, I'd say this is a plus! Fish glue (a wood glue) will have amazingly larger open time than, say, titebond. It is my #1 glue of choice for wood binding. It is amazing stuff. HIGH (read ridiculous) initial tack, slow dye time so long open time, and really long shelf life (so it doesn't matter if you ONLY use it for binding). Don't believe that BS about fish glue having a one-year shelf life. Go find some old stuff and test it... it's still fantastic. My $0.02, Chris
  6. Maybe it's the tinting of the pic and lighting... but that looks like padauk to me. Description sounds like it too. Is it bright orange? Sawdust bright orange and get on everything? Chris
  7. Wow... TOTALLY out there but also 100% works! Way to push the boundaries. Chris
  8. Indeed I am a real boy! And have all my digits! hahaha Chris
  9. I still have some of the Myka jigs available. There's a thread in the sales section if you search. Chris
  10. Looks super tight. Not sure I'd have put the bottoms so close to the frets, but that's preference, note execution! Chris
  11. verhoevenc

    Neck Modeling.

    What in the world happened to all these posts? Chris
  12. I wish I could remember who bought this so I could see what ever came of it! Chris
  13. I have done this on several actual bodies now and it works like a charm! But yes, with my CNC. I've done something SIMILAR without CNC though. I took my template and a 1/2" rabbit bit and made a smaller template. Then used a 1/4" bit following this smaller template to route a channel 1/4"" in from the edge to inlay some cool purfling into. That said, this only worked because I was fairly far inside the body... I'd be skeptical of my skill being able to do this with templates and come out with the body cut exactly on the binding perfectly. Problem is in close spaces the human eye is capable of pickup up on discrepancies of .010"... so unless you get the .060" binding EXACTING, the eye will notice. Chris
  14. I have sprayed nitro over tru-oil just fine. I can't say for "other oils." But generally, the longer it's been on there, the better. Chris
  15. This archtop is very dear to me as it is not only for a dear friend of mine but it was also a super-fun platform to innovate on since I had control over most of the specs. Essentially I had to use black and white ebony, amboyna burl, and it had to be an acoustic archtop in my Model1 shape. Other than that the rest was up to me! So I played with some fun things like: A bolt-on version of my compound-bend all-access neck joint Radial purfling using burl Carbon fiber (neck, neck block buttresses, and laminated in pickguard) 3D printed structural elements (can't really see them though) Charlie Christian pickup Completely hollowed ebony bridge Oval hole and fan bracing Back-strapped diamond volute Here she is relaxing in her new home: The specs are: Curly maple neck, back & sides. Note: the back is domed like a flat-top not carved. Carved sitka spruce top with ebony binding and tons of crazy multi-layer purfling. Black & white ebony fretboard and tailpiece (veneered in normal ebony expect the "wings"). Hollow ebony bridge and CF-laminate ebony floating pickguard. Buffalo bone nut and saddle. 25" scale board with 12" radius and 1 3/4" nut. Finish is odie's oil neck with satin nitro headplate. Body is all done in an tru-oil with some additional wizardry to keep it from soaking deep into the top and potentially hurting the acoustic resonance. One thing I want to point out that doesn't matter for the final product, but I'm still proud of: I decided to fully hand gramil all the binding and purfling channels on this box. What a process... won't do it again... but glad I did it once so I can truly appreciate binding jigs and bearing bits! If you'd like to learn a (lot) more about this project, it's history, why the specs are what they are then feel free to waste 30 minutes here: Best, Chris
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