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One Shots instructions are to add catalyst if your clearing, you may get away with not but your risking it all blowing up.

Any switch that you can use to short the connection will work. I've tried push buttons and toggles with success.

If you use oneshot and plan on clearing it you need to add a catalyst to it. HOK's stripping paints need a catalyst if you don't plan on clearing it. Not sure who else is in the stripping game anymore, Alsa's on the verge of shutting down the paint line if they haven't already.

I've had a lot of luck stripping stuff recently with Ace hardwares Refinishing Liquid

Its all about picking a paint system and sticking with in the system. If by poly you mean minwax in a can, I believe they sell it tinted or Homie Depot can tint it for you.

I'm with Ihocky, I'd tint clear. First you get a deeper look because the finish is in fact deeper. Yo Also Its a lot easier to do and get a consistent look if you can spray.

A flowing coat is between light and medium. I dont wetsand, I dont like the risk of water getting in a screw hole or something and causing me issues. But I still 1000 grit, then 2000 gritt, buff and polish.

1. Between 2 and 3 ounces for me. I use any leftovers on other stuff, but I hate to run out. 2. Depends on your base,etc... More for flakes or to cover tape lines from artwork, only a couple for regular basecoat. My goal is usually to have enough in the first session to make sure I can get rid of any runs/sags/dust nibs etc... without harming the base coat. I don't always have these things but when I skip a little they always pop up where I didn't see them. -I usually work in at least 2 sessions. The first I lay down clear and sand it back with about 600. The second I aim for one flowing coat to "flo coat" much less buffing etc... that way. For flakes I might do 3. 3. Flash times vary on location.(temp/humidity/air flow etc...) The tech sheets will tell you how to test and give you a general idea. 4. Lacquer thinner is my choice.

Coast Airbrush may still have some they have crazy amounts of stock on stuff. They also can recomend other products to get similar results.

Eerie Dess is not a swirl. Exactly. Or you can go to www.alsacorp.com and check their crazer Alsa's crazer is a similar but very different effect. Also they have discontinued some of their paints like the Cystal Fx.

Erie Dess swirl is a product called marbelizer. You spray it on, place plastic wrap over it and twist it off. You can do a lot of other stuff with it too,its a slow drying pearl paint. It is a silver white pearl color. The colors come from using transparent paints over it before clearing.(kandying) Funny enough in some old House Of Kolor catalouges the cans of marbelizer are labeled Erie Dess.

You can get copper foil at a lot of craft and hobby shops, maybe cheaper than Stew Mac. The "paint" you have left is vinyl sealer most likely. If you can leave it and use it as your primer. What are your final finish plans? That will help determine where you should go. I would always start at the final goal and build a plan from there for paint. Also posting pictures makes diagnoses a lot easier.

On an epiphone, it is most likely not going to be nitro. I don't know of any recent models done in nitro from them, but there could be an oddball out there.

You can use india ink to die rosewood black. As far as using it to burst with an airbrush or spray gun. The answer is if you can get it to spray well, Yes. The question is should you? Will it be UV proof, will it take a clear coat well and not react with the finish. You can spray a test panel and know if it won't blow up right away, you wont know what will happen a year or 5 years or a month later. Or be able to UV bath it to know how the combo will fade.

Right now Im trying to hunt a pickguard that works. Brushed aluminum is winning right now.