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syxxstring

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About syxxstring

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    excessive compulsive
  • Birthday 11/18/1973

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    Las Vegas, NV
  1. Also consider a cheap tyvex paint suit, it will protect you and prevent all the dust from you and your clothes from contaminating your paint. According to Jon Kosmoski's book, founder of House Of Kolor, the painter is just as much a source of contaminants as anything else.
  2. You can apply HOK UFC35 directly over wood according the person I am partnering with on some builds. He wrote the HOK tech manual and headed their testing and tech support before leaving Valspar about 7 months ago.
  3. Ditto on thw watterslides. I have a bunch of the paper. Pm me and we'll work out getting you some done.
  4. Hardt to tell from the thumbnail, but it looks kewl.
  5. I don't think you'd get a metallic to lay very nice with a brush. If you don't have spray equipment I'd try an automotive rattlecan. I think Honda and Toyota both have blues that are close.
  6. Don't think your gonna get them. Changes to enviormental laws mean that the paints would probably have been reformulated in the last 10 years or so, so the code probably won't be accurate anyways. I would go to your local paint jobber, especially if you have on that specializes in Custom paints. They will have books and swatches just pick the color that works for you. They also can do some color matching if you desire.
  7. The vsbl is just a metallic blue. You can get it with many paint systems just pick a style(rattle can, spray gun, pay someone) and stay with in a paint system from one manufacturer.
  8. Also know that while the HOK primers are killer. It CAN NOT be painted directly over you need to spray a KO-Seal over it. House of Kolor has no solutions that allow you to paint directly over their primers. None, nada, zip. Ko-Seal is a great base and you can tint the metallic or white to be your first layer for artwork and such. Ko seal would be a great bass for a swirl I believe though especially their metallic, you can even tint it. And if your going to do it use all HOK products, color, clear and primer/sealer. People will tell you to mix brands but its just not a good idea, brands mix different solvents and levels, so while it may be okay you don't know what it will do in the long run. Spraying on a piece of scrap or test panel just tells you its not a bad idea for a day or so, you don't know what will happen in 5 years. Before you commit to HOK, read the tech manual its on their site. I would buy my HOK from Coast Airbrush(coastairbrush.com). They will match anyone's price and provide superior support and service. The other advantage of Coast is they don't premix thier HOK small quantities. What's the big deal: 1. Control, you don't know TCP Globals reduction rate. You want to control this, or at least know what it is. For a swirl I would way over reduce to get more time and a thinner film. 2. Price, reducer is way cheaper than paint or kandies. So while TCP seems competitive they are really pulling the wool over your eyes. 3. Shelf life. Reduced paints and especially the kandies have about a week of shelf life before they start to get grainy and funky when you spray. Subtract shipping time from this. As always your mileage may vary.
  9. That would depend on what paints you are going to use for the swirl. I would stay in an entire paint system and use all their products.
  10. Don't know what to tell you there. I have about 40 quarts of Autoair and 4 different airbrushes. Edit, thought about it. Signpainters One Shot if your not clearing over the art. House Of Kolor Striping paints if you are. Either product can be used in the other situation with additives.
  11. I'm not sure on the Nitro, but Autoair Colors work well. I mostly use automotive paints and get supplies exclusively from CoatAirbrush.com. I know other airbrush artist that reduce regular art paints but have never tried this myself.
  12. 2k Urethanes, common automotive clears. Depending on the paint your using for the artworks maybe a furniture poly. Nitro is old technology that the paint industry gave up on because the finish is not as durable or uv resistant as the stuff we use today as well as the enviormental concerns.
  13. Do it on the clear, that way if there's a mistake it will be easier to fix. But you don't want to polish the clear first you need to leave it scuffed so the paint can stick. Ymmv but I would stick with modern clears unless you want to do the aged/relic'd thing.
  14. Using sign painters One Shot, you could do it with out reclearing or sanding. You might need to scuff for a large area, read their tech sheets.
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