justbecos

I really like the body shape, I might have to 'borrow' it flip it over and a couple of tweaks and it would look good as a normal 6 string

I kind of like it. If you are not trying to make a direct strat copy you could try and make it bigger feature and curve the arm contour round to the waist and down to the bottom of the guitar so the transition from the walnut to mahogany is a sweeping curve instead of the straight line.

What type of bridge are you using? I would expect the ball end of the string where the only core of the string only goes round not to be covered with the coating. Therefore with a standard toploading bridge the coating would not be a problem. Unless I'm wrong in which case you would need to scraped part of the coating off the where the strings are held by the bridge If it is a through body stringing you might need to try grounding the string ferrule instead (again assuming that the coating does not cover the ball end). Hmm just read that back and not sure if I make any sense

I'm afraid you'll need to do some maths. As you are using Mykes jig measure the horizontal distance from the front block and the back blocks the router board rides on. With this and knowing the angle you want, use trigonometry to work out the height of the opposite side. The tangent of the angle (A) multiplied by the length of the adjacent (adj) side equals the length of the opposite (opp) side. Tan(A)*Adj=opp The height of the opposite side will be the difference that you need between the front and back of the router board. Or you can be lazy and use any number of websites to work it out for you lazy way to work it out set it up to work out the Opposite and Hypotenuse and just plug you numbers in

Pretty much , but p90's instead of jazzmaster pups, and the body outline is the same but the cross section is different with the top and bottom both being curved (35" radius).

Could someone confirm if my theory and thinking below is correct for working out where to put the compensated wraparound bridge. The adjustment of the bridge for the intonation should always lengthen the string from the given scale length. This is to allow for small area of string at the bridge and nut which can not vibrate, the thicker the string the larger the area that can not vibrate except where changing from plain to round. Therefore if my bridge is correctly compensated having where string breaks on the high e string with the bridge fully forward on its adjustment at the exact scale length (25.5") will work and allow me enough adjustment. please tell me if I'm being stupid.

Hmmm you might be right. I've done a bit more work on the model what do you think? I'm leaning towards the last one, the first will still be quite tight but should be fine for the body width. I do like the second, but I am able to get a nice piece of indian rosewood 1" thick for a good price which is all plained and ready to go and leave enought to do another sometime.

Well my wood has arrived. One or two small problems with, it's just a little bit narrower than I thought so will have to adjust the shape slightly as probably won't have quite enough width once it the edges have been prepared and glued. Also there are a couple of beetle holes (I presume that is what they are) and a small mineral streak but they shouldn't be a problem. you can just make out one of the holes and the mineral streak on this pic

I'm not sure I understand what you mean. Do you mean a strat type socket into the side of the guitar below the strap pin? If so I like the way you are thinking I have seen this while looking at guitar porn today. This is by Scott French , I like the idea of it if I can get it to work on a slightly curved surface. Having the guitar input socket on the back of the guitar seams a neat and tidy idea. I would place the socket lower down as my strap pin will be lower. With the shape of my guitar and the way I stand and sit while playing it won't get in the way at all and the cable will go straight up to the strap pin which I strap my cable over anyway

Hi I've lurked around here for a while, and as I'm going to be starting a new project soon (as soon as my hand is in one piece it's in a cast at the moment) I thought I should post it. I have only done quite basic flattop bodies before so any help oe comments welcome. I'll be using a bought neck and just making the body. The body is going to be jazzmaster shape, with the top and back radiused sort of like s-series ibanez. As I've been off work I've had a playg with the CAD, not done any 3d modeling before so this took be a while. You can ignore the colours they were just to be able to see whats going on To do this I plan to use a radiusing (is that a real word?) jig along the same lines as I have seen some people here use with a router in a curved sledge on rails. All the routing for neck, pickups etc would be done first. Then the radius, on the first side 4 'posts' would be left one in each corner on the body. This is so the body will stand steady to do the other side. The 3 main things I still have to work out is, how and where to put the jack, the routes for the controls is very tight and I'm not I will get a notmal 3 way tele style switch in there, depth is 1" 1/4 and will I need to recess the bridge to get correct string height and the there will not be any neck angle (hopefully) Specs so far Body 2 piece Korina finish true oil possible with a stain will wait to see the wood in the flesh to decide Neck ? (what I can get on ebay prob strat style maple + rosewood neck) Pickups 2 P90's probable iron gear as i'm on a quite a tight budget on this Bridge Compensated wrap around probably Wilkinson or Gotoh Any comments appreciated. I'm sure there must be something I've missed that will come and bite me on the bottom .