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Ronkirn

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Ronkirn last won the day on November 11 2018

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About Ronkirn

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    Member
  • Birthday 08/20/1946

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  • Location
    Jacksonville, FL
  • Interests
    Assisting others and, building a few myself
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    USA

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  1. that's exactly how I do it... however note.. to do so you must have your parts available... despite all the hoopla, parts guaranteed to be to specs.. are usually specced out in Chinenglish .. not SAE standards.. Having your parts at the ready allows you to "dry fit" them as you proceed, that way you know when the lacquer is dried and polished, everything;s gonna work out within the margin of correction allowed for by the adjustments ., r
  2. actually that's misinformation, Poly is very nasty stuff... and I'd take huffin' Nitro over Poly any day if the choice was mandatory. r
  3. I would try Lowes or Home Depot and see if either one offers Deft... in the Spray can it's available as a real solvent based Nitrocellulose .. it is among the easiest to use... the "stuff" you selected uses the humidity in the air to cure... all I could say is try it on a test piece. if it cures hard enough to sand with 240 or so.. then it'll be fine. But some of the rattle can Polys can take an extended time to harden, all the time acting as a "fly paper" for any thing floating around in the air.. r
  4. place the neck plate on the back of the body... get it visually straight etc... mark the center of the holes... drill them... DO NOT worry if they are not exactly evenly spaced on the back of the neck.. that doesn't mean squat.... you cannot see them.. you CAN see that neck plate. get THAt straight.. Drill the holes through the body with a 3.16 inch bit... it's pretty much the "industry standard" After that.. I clamp the neck in the pocket.. take a 3/16 brad point drill. then stick it in the hole.. tap it lightly, the brad point will leave a mark on the heel of the neck... drill your 1/8th pilot hole,. and you can figure the rest... r
  5. think of it like golf... lotta amateurs buy a set of clubs, yank the driver outta the bag and hit the driving range pounding balls every which-a-way except straight.... and continue until their hands bleed.... thing is.. the driver is used maybe 10 times a round..(for those that have a basic understanding of the game) . . . however the putter.. something few ever practice seriously, is good for about 30 = 40 strokes a round for the amateur..... a little practice with THAT thing and you can shave some real numbers off the old handicap... Learn the unglamorous stuff first.. its where the real difference between a "store bought" and a good project guitar exists.. r
  6. that's close to absolutely correct.... but I'd suggest just finding a beater first... take it apart... do the frets.. and put it back together.... several times... focus on mastering the fret leveling and setup... without that anything you build will be little more than an assemblage of parts... it takes the setup to convert that into a musical instrument... here's some "stuff" I did decade ago.. perhaps it will help;p as you enter our hobby.. Ron Kirn http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Tele_template-illustrated-reader-spreads.pdf http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Tele-reader-spreads.pdf http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Setup-reader-spreads.pdf http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-technical/201556-fret-leveling-yer-tele-101-a.html http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Strat-reader-spreads.pdf http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Strat_template-illustrated-reader-spreads.pdf http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Nitro-New-reader-spreads.pdf http://www.tdpri.com/forum/stratocaster-discussion-forum/104487-ok-so-i-promised-here-ya.html
  7. If you're building a conventionally available model.. like a Stat or Tele...get your hardware, pick guard and neck, unless you're making it... then use the parts to make sure everything aligns visually on your drawing... little things like the bridge not being situated evenly spaced in a cutout in the pickguard like on the Strat or Tele can scream amateur... as can having the margins around the edge of the pickguard uneven relative to the edge of the body.. just little things... here's some "stuff" I did a number of years back that might help.... http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Tele_template-illustrated-reader-spreads.pdf http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Tele-reader-spreads.pdf http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Setup-reader-spreads.pdf http://www.tdpri.com/forum/tele-technical/201556-fret-leveling-yer-tele-101-a.html http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Strat-reader-spreads.pdf http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Strat_template-illustrated-reader-spreads.pdf http://jpbturbo.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/Nitro-New-reader-spreads.pdf http://www.tdpri.com/forum/stratocaster-discussion-forum/104487-ok-so-i-promised-here-ya.html Ron Kirn
  8. just for the record..that "Strat" is as phony as a room full of politicians... probably nothing on it that OEM Fender.. rk
  9. I have to agree... I've seen some of his other posts over the years... Generally the "science" is based more on internet hooplah than actual reality.. the simple truth is the tremolo has inherent flaws... to advert them you have to have a deep understanding of the mechanical fiuunctionality AND the metallurgical properties of the alloys used to make the strings... fortunately... superb guitarists have managed to navigate the foibles of tremolo annoyance and still produce superb music, through the years, you can too.. there is no magic spring placement, etc that will solve the problems.. and as long as the guitar is setup well.. You will do well... one point, where he says "string tension on the top has to equal spring tension on the back" is absolutely correct.. but what he apparently is unaware of is that tension is "filtered" through the tremolo pivots... or . . . you cannot have more tension on the treble side and less on the bass side... the cumulative tension of all the strings collide with the mechanics of the fulcrum point(s) and the string side "sees" it as all the same, not a bit from one string, and more from the next string.. The number one problem with Tremolo issues is the way guys use them... Dick Dale used them correctly, most of the "banger" groups use them incorrectly... If you try to rip the mechanism from the guitar to achieve some kinda dramatic effect you will be successful, the effect will be consistently out of tune guitars... Its a tremolo, its NOT an FX . . rk
  10. I'm sorry but a mechanism that has moving strings trying to glide over fixed brass is gonna be problematical at best.... every time you hit the Bigsby, the guitar will return to an out of tune condition... Its bad enough with a tremolo and a bridge designed for them, but over a fixed bridge... I hope no one in the group can hear tuning anomalies acutely... r
  11. the problem is the strings "dragging" back and forth across the fixed saddles... talk about tuning issues.... you're far better with a bridge designed to move in sync with the strings.. here's a few to give ya some ideas.. rk
  12. well. . next time.... file the slot.... heat the screw with a solder tool... that melts the resins in the wood which acts as a glue when you first run the screw in... back it out... always drill a pilot hole.... and use wax on the screw to act as a lubricant when you run it in... and pro tip . . NEVER use the screws that come with parts.... with the possible exception of a few of the better known boutique parts makers, they all use the cheapest junk they can find.. made of inferior steel... replace the screws with quality Stainless steel screws,, you can usually find them at the local large chain Hardware store, Like Ace or True Value.. or the monster stores like Home Depot or Lowes... or on line at MCMaster-Carr .. the only time I use the original supplied screws is if there are no Stainless substitutes available,, and then, I;m really very careful. rk
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