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Entry for February 2020's Guitar Of The Month is open - ENTER HERE!


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Everything posted by Ronkirn

  1. One of the main mistakes guys make in creating their ultimate guitar is incorporating too much in the way of electronics... the signal can be compared to a stream... the water flowing will seek any and all areas where it can leak out, or become turbulent... While, all the time water arrives at the mouth, seemingly undisturbed... However if it was possible to seal all the places where it leaks out or becomes turbulent.. the volume and intensity at the mouth would increase substantially,, Similarly... the induced signal.. flowing along the circuit.. every time it encounters some kinda interruption, some signal leakage occurs... the more "junk" ya have in the path, the more of the signal leaks off... Unfortunately, the part of the signal leaking are the higher frequencies... and that's where positive attributes like articulation, clarity, presence, and that "cut through the mix" characteristic all are found... Chip away at those attributes enough and you wind up with a beautiful guitar that sound as bland as yesterday's cold grits.. one other factor many aren't aware of.. when you split a Humbucker... you decide the DCR, usually around 7.5k in half... in the split mode, you only have a coli of about 3.? k.. which results in a precipitously lower volume. Since the human ear perceives lower volume as inferior sound, particularly when compared up again a higher volume... instantly by pulling the switch.. more times than not the split mode is a bit of a disappointment. were it me, I'd find a considerably less complex circuit and let the signal free... rk
  2. O . . Typically it requires about one year for every inch of thickness to dry the wood... This is assuming you're in a moderate climate... It can be accelerated to some degree by placing the lumber in the attic where it usually hits about 140 degrees... Cut the blank longer and thicker to allow for shrinkage and protect the end grain from checking (splitting) by coating it with a good coat of wax... then, just wait... while you're doing so look for a moisture meter and check periodically when it gets to below 10% you;re good to go.. Then if ya wanna dye it , see my other post... rk
  3. there are many different methods of dying the woods, but the one tried and true method is with aniline dyes... that is an acquired skill, not hard, but it does require a bit more knowledge than "the take the rag and smear MinWax stain on the wood method" There are a number of good you tube videos.. I'd encourage you to watch a few and try on scrap lumber before ya dye a finished piece. and note the difference in Stain and Dye, Stain sits on top of the wood, rather like paint.. it's easy to remove should it be necessary. it also like like "paint sitting on the wood" Dye soaks into the wood for a few thousandths.... about 1 mm... Screw that up and you have problems, but it IS the quality method of changing the color of the wood.. I use aniline dyes exclusively... think of aniline like you would ink ... a really good penetrating ink.. Oh yeah, and be careful. get aniline dye in your skin and it has to wear off... get it on anything your Wife values and you can move in with the Dog.. rk
  4. Here is the problem with duplicating ANY trademarked aspect of a guitar... and applying counterfeit trademarks.... ON Fenders the headstock shape is a registered trademark, the body shape is not... even if your intent is to keep the guitar forever... forever only lasts until your passing... the guitar continues.... then what? Say your wife inherits it, and she knows it's a fake... and not to sell it... OK, Good, but eventually she passes, the guitar continues. passing into the hands of yet another family member... so that continues until eventually the fact that Great Great Grand Pa made it, and it's a copy.. fades into oblivion, and someone eventually decides to get rid of it.. Will they mention its a fake if they are unaware of that fact,. So some "kid" has been saving his BitCoins... sees the ad in Craigs List... buys it... and thrilled, ready to make the first mods .. pops the hood only to find a note from you, saying it's a fake... How 'bout THAT for busting a kids bubble? Ron Kirn
  5. here's one supplier... you can google CA and a number of suppliers will pop up, ya want slow cure adhesive, of various viscosities.. http://instantca.com/industrial-adhesives/cyanoacrylate/ rk
  6. I would encourage you to post a GOOD audio clip so we can hear exactly what it sounds like. That will go a long way in determining what may be causing the issue. Ron Kirn
  7. true, without a photograph we can't make a definitive evaluation, but.. if the holes aren't driller through the center of the neck from back to front, there should be no encounter with the truss rod, so other than cosmetics, there will be no problems... Ron Kirn
  8. what you're seeing is where the UV light has caused the lacquer to become yellow/amber.. as common as cockroaches in a Southern Camp Ground... I would suggest considering leaving it as it is... unless you are somewhat skilled at scraping binding, you can make things much worse,, Ron Kirn
  9. yeah, what Scott said... the standard operating procedure for repairing such foibles it to use CA then just sand the wood... the accumulating sand powder will fill the void... it may take several times to fill it completely, but once done, it will be very "low key" to the extent it'll probably go unnoticed unless ya point it out. Ron Kirn
  10. Here's something I did years ago... someone suggested the obvious, old cracked, split wood wasn't suitable for a guitar simply due to structrual considerations... which is correct, IF ya do nothing to adress the issues.. No matter what ya do that's "off the wall", someone will always show up and start flaming whatever ya did as resulting in an inferior whatever, or not capable of superior tone, or any one of a unlimited number of other disses... That's a crock... after, i don't know how many hundreds, if not thousands of these BarnBusters.. I have never had anyone send one back broken, cracked or otherwise showing signs of succumbing to the beauty marks picture framed in the character... and sound... same thing.... never one gripe... So I took the most rotten skanky bug eaten (actually this is the stuff the Termites wouldn't touch)... hunk I could find and conducted a test.. Using the slow cure CA ( that's the pedestrian name) the suppliers call it something else...) I "secured" the obvious flaws, let it cure a day or so.. then went at it with a hammer... It did break.. but did so in areas that were sound lumber, not on the repaired faults... showing the repairs were now stronger, more secure, than the bug eaten rotten stuff.. Initially I was using the same "stuff" Museum Conservators use to preserve ancient artifacts.. but my friend that works in the field suggested commercially available CA glues... ( not the hobby grade or DIY) stuff available. They are available in very slow curing solutions so instead of hardening instantly, they can take hours, allowing time for the solution to soak into compromised areas, and once it hardens, it's more dense than a teenagers head.... SO .. yeah... you can get away with using some incredibly "unsuitable" trash and have a stunning guitar... Ron Kirn
  11. I have been making my BarnBusters from very old completely "gnarly" pine for years.... often replete with cracks, spike holes and loose knots, the initial impression gives one pause.. however with the use of modern products, restoring structural integrity has proven to be no problem.. and the resulting guitars sounds wonderful.. The appearence is an "accquired taste". But, for or those that want a very rustic and unique look, they are hard to beat. When I began, I did so with great trepidation. fears of hearing one collapsed like a cheep lawn chair haunted mer.. So I built a "demo" and gave it the Pete Townsend treatment.. no issues... Now after more than a decade of making 'em, Teles, Strats, Jazzmasters, Basses, and on and on.. I have never had anyone suggest anything other than superlatives.. Further.. the very concept has compelled me to rethink my myopic opinion about wood integrity, glue joints, and other inclusions so oft argued as having adverse effects on the voice of the guitar. I was like so many, feeling only a one piece solid hunk of wood could produce the best sound... nah.. not even close.... I gotta tell ya, I havre made some really skanky looking guitars out of horribly compromised lumber... where the results were simply stunning... So i'd say, go for it.... To darn much fun not to... here;s a few photos Ron Kirn
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