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Entry for August 2019's Guitar Of The Month is now open!

Sami Ghouri

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About Sami Ghouri

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  • Birthday 06/03/1984

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  1. Thanks a lot guys! ANd yeah I realized that the cut should be significantly bigger and THEN you plane to thickness. The strip that warped was almost bandsawn to thickness then minor thicknessing was done on the planer, yeah no. Not again. Cheers guys
  2. Hi all, I have finally stepped the game up and started building my own necks out of raw wood (used to be scared of doing that and did not have the tools to do so) and I also finally managed to source some wood locally in Dubai where we do not have any "tone wood" suppliers and you are on your own. I am building a prototype of a guitar I designed a while ago and it will have a 5-piece African Mahogany neck with 2x 5mm thick Okoume laminates. The guitar is a 7 stringer and I am planning to bandsaw the angle out of the laminated blank and not scarf joint anything. I had previously trued and planed the boards to dead straight and they remained pretty much true after sitting for about a week or 10 days (minor 1mm warping or so over the span on 1500mm which sounds okay to me). When I cut the Okoume laminates -whose board was dead straight before cutting- one of two pieces bowed for quite a bit. Now I understand that as you cut the wood the internal tensions tend to get "released" and wood acts up again in a way. But how much warping is acceptable for a thin laminate? It is okay to force it to shape while clamping for gluing? The width of the neck goes from 48mm to 68mm so the 5mm okoume strips are not exactly going to constitute the majority of the neck wood and the mahogany is more or less stable so far which is good. One more question: Has anyone used Okoume before? I like the grain and it is EXTREMELY light compared to mahogany. The piece I have seems to have a maple-ish resonance when knocked on but the grain looks similar to mahogany. The warping clearly indicates that this isn't a wood that is hard enough for a neck (neither do the hardness scale numbers) but I assume it would be okay as thin lams and for body wings right? This is going to be just a prototype and def not going to be sold so I am experimenting a lot with it. Will be installing CF rods and a standard stewmac U channel rod in it as well. Your thoughts are MUCH appreciated. Thanks, Sami
  3. Thanks loads mate! That's a lot of good info that puts things in perspective about glues. That being said, this question was posed way earlier as you can probably tell so I had to solve it then. I used Araldite and it was a dream to work with and didn't stink up the whole room with post-football-game-socks. It's been months of hard gigging for this guitar so far and the owner hasn't complained about it so I guess it worked quite well. But looking at what you said there, looks like it might not last forever with epoxy so I'll expect it to come back to me at some point. Sorry for the long paragraph with no proper formatting but I replied using my blackberry so the format looks funny.... Thanks again. It's always great being on this forum as there's always something new to learn and someone willing to help. You guys are awesome. Cheers, Sami
  4. Alright then thanks a lot for the input! I'll wait for some time before I go ahead and epoxy the heck out of it. Maybe someone else would also chime in. I'll also try to do these grooves. Cheers!
  5. Thanks Wez! I recall reading a post on the Martin forums against using epoxy but I'd definitely trust the GOTM 5x winner more XD Btw, I have this epoxy, you reckon this would work? http://www.acetogo.com/photo/small/18611.jpg
  6. It's been forever since I last posted/visited this amazing website! Hope you're all well! So a customer came to me with that guitar saying that the bridge was lifting off and that he tried squeezing hide glue in there but didn't work. I thought to myself, that's a walk in the park fix. And on a martin, it'll probably quite simple unless he really screwed it up. So I masked, hit the bridge with the iron and cloth (no steam) and the thing came off like a dream. Started sanding and scraping off the old glue from the bridge, then moved on to scraping the top wood ONLY TO STOP at the right time before I screw things up! I didn't sand much (luckily) but I figured something was wrong in there as there was finish UNDER the glue which completely startled me so I stopped and went to my friend: THE INTERNETS! So this HPL (fancy word for fancy-er formica) topped guitbox seems to have this common issue, but I could not find advice anywhere on any forums as to which glue I should use (as I still haven't hit the finish real hard and would like to keep things as are). Anybody had experience with these? I have little experience with hide glue but judging by how it didn't work with the guy I wouldn't be inclined to try it again. Epoxy maybe? Heck, CA (now that's probably ridiculous, but what do I know?) Posting on projectguitar forums is usually my last resort as so far it's been almost impossible to not find what I'm looking for with a simple search. Well, not this time it seems Thanks in advance! Sami from DXB
  7. I DO NOT WANT TO hijack the thread, but i have a similar question. I can't seem to find any shielding tape around where i live. The only solution I can think of is aluminum foil that's connected with some solder. As hard as fixing that would be, is it gonna make any difference? Or should i just keep looking? Thanks!
  8. Sami Ghouri (surprise surprise!) 24, B.Sc. in Computer Engineering from the American University of Sharjah (we're ABET accredited!! even if the uni is in the middle of the arabian desert! hehe... www.aus.edu if you don't believe me! =D) currently working for BurtHill as a Telecom/AV/Security infrastructure engineer. i have a certificate in music theory and classical music (concentration: piano) and picked up the electric guitar around 8 years ago..... modded, refinished, upgraded, fixed many guitars (for more than a couple of years). To be clear on things i'm a beginner at doing routings mods and other wood working stuff but i'm trying. first build is currently in progress. in fact i'm more interested in building/modding/fixing guitars than actually playing them!!!!
  9. we are using the Mackie firewire interface (satellite onyx) and it's working very well with our laptops! and tracktion comes free along with it. We use sonar though (been using it for over 4 years).
  10. Hails!!! I know you're all thinking BLASPHEMY! BURN HIM! and other nice stuff.... but i'm doing this as a favor and don't really have the time to sand/strip and then repaint and wait for ages.... and it's a cheap guitar anyway so it's not worth all the effort... i was thinking of spraying monochrome hot rod flames on it (as is, without any sanding) or follow the transparency method (print, stick, lacquer) or something like that..... would that work??? if no, any better ideas?? thanks a lot! Sami
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