Sami Ghouri

Thanks a lot guys! ANd yeah I realized that the cut should be significantly bigger and THEN you plane to thickness. The strip that warped was almost bandsawn to thickness then minor thicknessing was done on the planer, yeah no. Not again. Cheers guys

Hi all, I have finally stepped the game up and started building my own necks out of raw wood (used to be scared of doing that and did not have the tools to do so) and I also finally managed to source some wood locally in Dubai where we do not have any "tone wood" suppliers and you are on your own. I am building a prototype of a guitar I designed a while ago and it will have a 5-piece African Mahogany neck with 2x 5mm thick Okoume laminates. The guitar is a 7 stringer and I am planning to bandsaw the angle out of the laminated blank and not scarf joint anything. I had previously trued and planed the boards to dead straight and they remained pretty much true after sitting for about a week or 10 days (minor 1mm warping or so over the span on 1500mm which sounds okay to me). When I cut the Okoume laminates -whose board was dead straight before cutting- one of two pieces bowed for quite a bit. Now I understand that as you cut the wood the internal tensions tend to get "released" and wood acts up again in a way. But how much warping is acceptable for a thin laminate? It is okay to force it to shape while clamping for gluing? The width of the neck goes from 48mm to 68mm so the 5mm okoume strips are not exactly going to constitute the majority of the neck wood and the mahogany is more or less stable so far which is good. One more question: Has anyone used Okoume before? I like the grain and it is EXTREMELY light compared to mahogany. The piece I have seems to have a maple-ish resonance when knocked on but the grain looks similar to mahogany. The warping clearly indicates that this isn't a wood that is hard enough for a neck (neither do the hardness scale numbers) but I assume it would be okay as thin lams and for body wings right? This is going to be just a prototype and def not going to be sold so I am experimenting a lot with it. Will be installing CF rods and a standard stewmac U channel rod in it as well. Your thoughts are MUCH appreciated. Thanks, Sami

Thanks loads mate! That's a lot of good info that puts things in perspective about glues. That being said, this question was posed way earlier as you can probably tell so I had to solve it then. I used Araldite and it was a dream to work with and didn't stink up the whole room with post-football-game-socks. It's been months of hard gigging for this guitar so far and the owner hasn't complained about it so I guess it worked quite well. But looking at what you said there, looks like it might not last forever with epoxy so I'll expect it to come back to me at some point. Sorry for the long paragraph with no proper formatting but I replied using my blackberry so the format looks funny.... Thanks again. It's always great being on this forum as there's always something new to learn and someone willing to help. You guys are awesome. Cheers, Sami

Alright then thanks a lot for the input! I'll wait for some time before I go ahead and epoxy the heck out of it. Maybe someone else would also chime in. I'll also try to do these grooves. Cheers!

Thanks Wez! I recall reading a post on the Martin forums against using epoxy but I'd definitely trust the GOTM 5x winner more XD Btw, I have this epoxy, you reckon this would work? http://www.acetogo.com/photo/small/18611.jpg

It's been forever since I last posted/visited this amazing website! Hope you're all well! So a customer came to me with that guitar saying that the bridge was lifting off and that he tried squeezing hide glue in there but didn't work. I thought to myself, that's a walk in the park fix. And on a martin, it'll probably quite simple unless he really screwed it up. So I masked, hit the bridge with the iron and cloth (no steam) and the thing came off like a dream. Started sanding and scraping off the old glue from the bridge, then moved on to scraping the top wood ONLY TO STOP at the right time before I screw things up! I didn't sand much (luckily) but I figured something was wrong in there as there was finish UNDER the glue which completely startled me so I stopped and went to my friend: THE INTERNETS! So this HPL (fancy word for fancy-er formica) topped guitbox seems to have this common issue, but I could not find advice anywhere on any forums as to which glue I should use (as I still haven't hit the finish real hard and would like to keep things as are). Anybody had experience with these? I have little experience with hide glue but judging by how it didn't work with the guy I wouldn't be inclined to try it again. Epoxy maybe? Heck, CA (now that's probably ridiculous, but what do I know?) Posting on projectguitar forums is usually my last resort as so far it's been almost impossible to not find what I'm looking for with a simple search. Well, not this time it seems Thanks in advance! Sami from DXB

It looks like red meranti to me! :S I've had the same color blank and it was heavy as hell! So if you think it's heavier than most woods you've dealt with, I'm afraid red meranti is a possibility! Also, if it is, for the sake of your router bits, don't make a guitar out of it!

I haven't tried them yet, but I came to know that they are Might Mite necks, if that helps!

I DO NOT WANT TO hijack the thread, but i have a similar question. I can't seem to find any shielding tape around where i live. The only solution I can think of is aluminum foil that's connected with some solder. As hard as fixing that would be, is it gonna make any difference? Or should i just keep looking? Thanks!

Welcome aboard Bruce! I have been here for quite sometime and still haven't built my own neck either and it doesn't seem like I will be anytime soon. Hope you enjoy it here, I'm very addicted to this forum! I'm sure you will be as well. Cheers, Sami

well i guess i was a bit harsh by saying "avoid" but i was a programmer myself and i really don't forgive incompetent software testing. I can understand random hardware failures (especially those related to long term and harsh environment testing) but when u're not creating a software that simulates a NASA shuttle and all you have is a couple of modules to test and you STILL fail at properly testing them before releasing the device to the market, you really shouldn't be given credit to begin with. As for using cheap hardware/parts, that's recognizable, and if you don't do a lot of live shows and you don't stump with all Thor's wrath, you should be fine. Software bugs are what ticks me off the most.

I have not read most of the replies, but here are my 2c: DO NOT EVER TRADE ANY REAL BRAND WITH LINE6! HOOOGE, and i mean, HOOOOGE software issues! and while the spider valve head's power stage IS tube, the preamp processing is all digital. AND FLAWED! wes, steer clear from the VettaII (if u're saying top range) because after a little online research i found out that it has some major software bugs (again) that line6 aren't even going to bother fixing! It was mentioned on their own website's forums somewhere (terribly sorry forgot the topic) but it was clearly visible. Also, line6 is known for cheap build quality. That I can tell you from semi-personal experience (i've fixed a number of those floor processors' screwed switches etc). Horribly cheap stuff! Especially for the price. Hope that helped. Sami

Hallo! I know i'm being a total lame a$$ here and it's probably lurking somewhere on the forum, but i did a quick search (coz time doesn't allow me to sit here for more than 5 mins) and didn't find anything. Basically it's the HSS jackson with 1 tone, 1 volume configuration (it's a Greco copy with a Kahler Flyer) and i found this bartolini Hi-A pickup on it! My question is, where can i find the diagram for connecting those 3 3-way swithces? i searched online and all i found were pics of the guitar itself. The jackson one that is. Also, can anyone help me find a wiring diagram for that humbucker itself? (yes it does have one coz it comes with different connection points that do different functions! right now it's wired in one position and its making a hell lot of noise so i'm suspecting a coil split). I'm sorry if this has been posted before, please link me to the thread if any. I am only asking coz i really don't have the time for searching *blush* Thanks a mil. Sami

oh it seems that i had a HOOGE misconception then.... i thought birch was very unstable.... guess it was beech not birch... anyone confirms zis?

it's just a software thing really. These floor processors do everything through a program. So if u're talking about the C loop for the switching thing i can help you with it. I think i don't understand the question very well though coz it's not a schematic thing. It's just a sufficient processor to do both tone modding and general functions (switching is one) and the rest is just DA AD etc. You can also hardwire the switching possibilities on a ROM. Instead of writing a program for it, you simply map the inputs to certain outputs and voila. Much faster and cheaper to implement. If i got ur question wrong, please help me understand what you mean. Cheers

A Strat is a Strat because it is a Strat and nothing more. Corvus, why is everyone talking about a Corvus, building a Corvus, using the word Corvus in a sentence. Corvus Corvus Corvus. OK I feel better now. you know when you keep reading (or thinking of) a word so much until it starts to sound weird? That can happen even if you think of ur own name for long. I swear the word Corvus (and CORVI TOO!) gives me shivers now because it just won't stop appearing on the forums! I think i'm gonna contribute to the plywood thread with, it's coming, YOU KNOW IT, A plycorvus build! EDIT: Also, we have managed to trash a completely irrelevant thread with the bloody corvus! We here at PG forums defy all global forum rules, coz that's how we rollz!

I don't know about australia, but before we got dealers for all major pickup brands here in dubai, we used to have mailboxes with those shipping companies (like Aramex, dunno if UPS has that kinda service) where you get a mailbox in the US that you can ship to and then the shipping company ships it to your home country. It really depended on the weight of the stuff you bought, but it was definitely cheaper than getting it delivered here as individual import orders or sometiems the local dealers. I'm sure there is something similar in Australia. Check around! Also, maybe the taxes there are high? Coz here we barely pay for customs/taxes on electronics.

Thanks a HELL LOT man! I'll try to burn it soon, hopefully that'll solve the problem.

Hallo! So i was supposed to do the update AAAGES ago, got the EEPROM and the file, but then i lost the file. I finally got around to setting things up yesterday, but couldn't remember where the file ended up. I went online to look for it and not-too-surprisingly it turned out to be a discontinued model and they don't have the file up for download anymore. I tried looking up every website possible but found none. Can anyone PLEASE help me find it? it's like a 3 kb file or less.. i don't wanna resolve to degutting my friend's amp to copy his ROM which is my last option. The reason why i'm updating is because i got this weird problem where all my lineouts (XLR, unbalanced, phones) become buzzy and noisy ONLY when i use the cabinet simulation feature. So the number 1 suspect is the software. If i disable that feature everything becomes fine. I can't imagine where else the problem could be. Any help is appreciated as I really can't afford a new amp right now and i actually like this one. Thanks, Sami

i used a plunge router and a router guide. I didn't have a template bit so what i did was undersize my ply template a bit (offset was equal to the router template guide plate so the end result was accurate) and i went slowly and didn't hog much wood every pass. Then i reached the limit of the bit so i flipped the body the other way around (i had it roughly jigsawed first btw, VERY roughly) and then used a long bit with a bearing at the end and used the routed circumference as a guide for this bit (i am not sure i explained it well so feel free to ask). The end result was pretty accurate and needed very minor sanding. Basically, i rough cut the body out of the blank, stuck the template i made of the body, routed about a bit over half the thickness of the body on one side (the top first) and then flipped the body and changed the bit so the bearing would be guided by the cleanly router side. I think a lot of ppl do the same as well, but only their posts shall tell!

DUUUH! chipboard or ply of course! I keed i keed, Maple for a workhorse, mahogany for a classy, richer-toned build i guess!

can't he simply recess the TOM? i mean isn't that easier than the neck angle? which has always scared me?

thanks bro! i'll probably postpone this whole thing until i get enough money (and space for the compressor, since i don't have a shop of my own yet!) and just follow these guidelines! wonder if i can find regulators here..... this is a SUPER consumer oriented country! when ppl here found out that i "fix" guitars (not even that ibuild them yet!) most of them went OMFG you cheap b***! just buy a new one damn it! so yeah.... i'll see whati can findeth.

the first thing i thought of when i saw the second was the moser custom shop model. The first looks like something i'd expect from Parable guitars (puts on asbestos flame suit in case he was wrong) The last two aren't my cup of tea at all. Cool designs nevertheless.

this is not exactly an advice coz it's quite intuitive, but if you're using midi pedals (especially those little buggers with only two buttons -bank up bank down thingies- ) make sure the cable is plugged all the way through *grumble grumble* there's nothing more awesome than having to swithc to/from distortion and ending up with the same sound! I was doing an Iced Earth watching over me cover once and my amp decided to just stare at me and blink (tap tempo LED ) when i was switching from distortion to clean! wasn't funny at the time but now it's hilarious! Little did i know was that my footswitch jack wasn't plugged all the way in so when i kicked the footswitch during the show it got disconnected. Oh, and MAKE SURE UR HANDS ARE WARM! this gets VERY ugly sometimes! in the land of the unholy deserts (here) temperatures are scorching usually, but the AC's don't have mercy for the weak... so make sure u run ur hands under hot water and then have them dried by the dryer in the washroom.... SERIOUSLY.... this is the only advice i can add to all the great stuff mentioned above! (which i personally went "AAAAHHHHH" to a lot of times! so thanks you guys)