Ar-Pharazon

Thanks curtisa, that looks like the best solution so far

Ok, so I wasn't sure where to post this but here seems like the best spot. Got given an old bass from a mate to have a look at. It was his first bass (an old ProAx pbass copy made of MDF that for some bizarre reason has always sounded quite amazing) and he and his brother bought it together before his bro died so its worth more to him than a new one. Anyways, he'd put in some new pickups and a whole new wiring harness and fancy cap etc... sounds really good, but the problem is the Alessandro pots he put in stop just short of poking out the other side (rear mounted). My thinking was to get a couple of 3/8" deep round nuts like the ones you use for LP toggle switches, but I cannot for the life of me find any that size. (like this) http://www.allparts.com/EP-4923-001-Nickel-Deep-Round-Nut_p_1466.html I'm afraid to route any more out of the body because its MDF and I have no idea how strong that is really. Any other suggestions for how to get around this? He brought the bass to me with the chrome knobs holding the whole thing together, but I have a feeling that given time the pots will turn inside the cavity and screw up all the wiring.

I understand all of what you are saying, but to be honest I think it will take more than simple set-up. As I have said before, the nut is not the issue here, as capo'ing the 1st fret gives 'exactly' the same intonation problems, down to the same tuner reading. As it is currently set up, the action is now the lowest it will go without buzzing, the neck is close to straight (0.38mm [rounded] between the bass string on the 7th fret and the fret when the string is depressed at fret 24) all to make sure that the string distance is not the issue. I know it doesn't make sense, unless its the bridge that is the problem... Oh, and I was wrong about the intonation being worse.. checked it again using a proper tuner this time and its still out but its only 1-1 1/2%... still annoying though....

the total length is 64.7cm or 647 mm, and to the middle of 12th is 32.25 (322.5mm) by my reckoning that means that I am about 1mm lacking... which is a pain. At the moment I am seriously considering a visit to the city, to a luthier, because, after redoing the relief on the neck, the intonation actually got slightly worse.

Yeah I know, I just thought someone might have had some sort of inside info on the thing...I managed to get the full notes the the recording sessions from master of puppets by asking similar questions about Lars drums mic'ing elsewhere on the net. Fleming Rasmussen was the one who eventually posted up the records he had kept of the sessions... anyhoo... the search continues...

Well if you can get a good mesa boogie mark IV sound out of a bandit I'd like to hear it...obviously I'm be facetious there but what you don't seem to get is that I already have my good sound... I switch between a Marshall JCM 800 sound, a Fender twin reverb sound and a Mark IV sound during the set. I can't take all these amps around with me and my Bandit is the most portable amp I have so I figured until I get my Atomic amp I would still try and play. Our band is anything but one dimensional and part of this is to do with the guitar sound. Any purist knows that your not going to play any funk or blues with a Mark IV and in the next song you are certainly not going to be attempting palm muted power chords with a fender twin. Compromise is not an option. What I am trying to do is make it sound transparent... because good depends on what type of music you are playing... if you are playing a kyuss song it hardly calls for sparkling treble refinement.

This sounds pretty straightforward. All I want it to reproduce the sound that my zoom g2 is producing through my amp... yes I know there are better amps on the market for this (I am looking at buying an Atomic Reactor 50w soon), but that doesn't help me with present gigging. Does anyone know what the entire frequency response of the Peavey Bandit 112 is? I am already aware of the power amp input at the back of the amp, that bypasses the preamp... but the speaker is EQing just as much. If someone knows exactly how each of the following is shaping my sound, I would be most appreciative: -the preamp with knobs either at 0 or at 12 o'clock -the power amp -the Sheffield 1230 speaker

Good thing you mentioned that... just tried it there and both B and E are still half a note out... I also noticed that it looks like the bridge is pointing towards the tailpiece just slightly... could it be that it somehow managed to get bent? seems like the real culprit isn't the nut, even though it may be part of the problem.

Thanks both of you for your time... I suspected it might be the nut before I posted because I did search before asking...but I thought I would ask anyway, which means its off to mr luthier... yeah its basically sharp up to 12 and flat past 12. The guitar is new so there is no fretwear at all (they are still polished and shiny) and I just put on new strings to see if that would help.

Ok sorry for not being clear... it certainly isn't to do with pulling sharp... the intonation is actually flat at fret 12 and the bridge intonation insert is as far forward as the screw will allow... I use 10-52 strings and I can get all but the high B and E correctly intonated. Hope that gives you a clear picture.

Personally, I think it should be ok as long as you make sure that the tuning is going to remain stable. You might want to try flipping the strings so that the ball ends are at the tguner end.. that way, as long as you have trimmed the strings to a suitable length, you should have very little in the way of string slip on the tuners. http://www.cs.auckland.ac.nz/~shane/rockgu...s/floydrose.jpg

I got myself a reissue 84 BC Rich NJ Classic Bich (please no comments on my taste in guitars)... anyhoo, I like the action pretty high for the sake of the dynamics and tone, but I have found that the intonation on this thing is almost impossible to get right. Given that I have never owned a non-trem guitar before, is this a standard gripe with this type of bridge (given that the nut is also variable compared to a locking floyd)? given that I am not going to touch the nut, is there anything I can do about this, or should I just find a good luthier (hard to come by in Brisbane).

Maybe you didn't pickup how lazy I am... I just rounded in my head because it was easier to type... now thats lazy... anyhoo this was one of those 'least work require' questions, because in all honesty, I could have just gone and tried it myself and found out all this info that has been posted. I think someone better close this thread befor it turns form an odd question into inane drivel.

Removing wood from the heel would make it even more neccesary to move the bridge. At the moment the full string length overshoots the bridge by about an inch(its roughly 64 cm give or take intonation). That is what I meant earlier. I would have to add wood to the neck to get the right distance if I were to only alter the neck.

It really is too much effort... I think I will just get hold of another bc rich neck on ebay, they aren't that hard to find.